CHAPTER XIII.

California.--Pearl Fisheries.--Missions.--Indian

Marriages.--Villages.--Precious Metals.--The Conquest of

California compared with that of Mexico.--Upper California

under the Spaniards.--Mexican Conquest of California in 1825.--The

March.--The Conquest.--California under the Mexicans.--American

Conquest.--Sinews of foreign Wars.--A Protestant and religious

War.--Early Settlers compared.--Mexico in the Heyday of

Prosperity.--Rich Costume of the Women.--Superstitious Worship.--When

I first saw California.--Lawyers without Laws.--A primitive

Court.--A Territorial Judge in San Francisco.--Mistaken

Philanthropy.--Mexican Side of the Picture.--Great Alms.--City

of Mexico overwhelmed by a Water-spout.--The Superiority of

Californians.

I can not enter the valley of Mexico, and there discuss the various

subjects that present themselves, without first gathering from

California the data that will elucidate the condition of a country

abounding in precious metals.

MEXICAN CALIFORNIA.

There is a striking dissimilarity between the two Californias. The

American State of California is as celebrated for its fertility as for

its mineral wealth. Peninsular California, on the other hand, is not

distinguished for its minerals, nor remarkable for its fertility. With

the sea washing it on either side, it is a country of drought and

barrenness. It is like a neutral ground between the two rainy seasons.

To the north of it, the winter is the season of abundant rains, with

dry summers. To the south of it, the summer rains are heavy and

continuous, without any showers in winter. Thus, lying between the

opposite climates, it rarely enjoys the refreshing rains of either. Its

back-bone is not a continuation of the rich Sierra Nevada, but of the

coast range, which is poor in minerals. The Mexican estimates set down

the population as amounting to 12,000,[26] but an American, who has

carefully examined the country, going down the whole length of the

peninsula on the one side, and returning by the other, fixes it at

4000. The inhabitants are an imbecile race of mixed bloods and Indians,

dwelling in the few small villages which the country contains, and upon

the ranchos and haciendas.

CALIFORNIAN PEARL-FISHERY.

Cattle thrive where water is to be found, and many of the natives are

excellent herdsmen. Fish are abundant, but the Californians lack the

necessary energy to become successful fishermen upon a large scale. The

pearl fisheries have for centuries brought strangers to this shore of

the Gulf, and many of the inhabitants have served as divers with

success. The production of pearls in the Sea of Cortez, or Gulf of

California, has been so great during the last three centuries, that

Mexico has become the greatest country for pearls yet known. Every

female above the rank of a peasant must have at least one pearl to

ornament the pin that fastens her shawl or mantilla upon the top of her

head. Most of these pearls are of small value, on account of their

imperfection in shape or color; but their abundance is one of the first

things that strike a stranger on entering Mexico. With a change of

fashions, the foreign demand for pearls fell off so much that, for the

last half century, these fisheries have been almost discontinued; but

with the reviving demand for pearls, the fisheries have again risen to

importance. For a more detailed account of these pearl-fisheries, I

must refer to the following note.[27]

In the year 1600 the Jesuits first undertook the establishment of a

mission at Loretto, on the Gulf coast, which has ever since been the

capital of the Peninsula. From the time of their first establishment

here down to the time of the expulsion of the Jesuits from all the

dominions of Spain, in 1767, they continued to cultivate this field,

though it proved more than a match for their wonted perseverance. In a

few places, the soil was made to yield its increase by the skillful

application of the waters that sprung up among the mountains and rocks.

Wherever irrigation was possible at small expense, there an oasis made

its appearance, which was in striking contrast to the general

barrenness that prevailed.

The manner in which conversions were effected by the Spanish priests

may seem a little strange to the "voluntaries" of our day. The idea of

running down a convert with dogs may seem to be rather an original

method of proselyting, and has been severely commented upon by Forbes,

and other Americans who have visited the Missions. But then such men

should bear in mind that Catholics are not voluntaries, and never rely

upon persuasion to make converts when they have the power to use a

stronger argument. If this same class of missionaries used dogs to

convert the Waldenses in Italy, there is a greater reason for using

them among the half-brutish Indians of California. With such a race,

moral suasion has no force; and to adduce arguments to convince a man

whose only rule of action is the gratification of his sensual

appetites, would be labor thrown away.

The good fathers took a more sensible view of the case. Having once

obtained the consent of an Indian to receive Christian baptism, they

took good care that he should not fall back from his profession, but

retained him a prisoner of the cross. They used as much mildness as is

compatible with their system, and only compelled their converts to

labor as much as was necessary to the success of the mission, the rest

of the time being devoted to their spiritual edification; that is, they

were employed in repeating Latin prayers and a Spanish catechism, after

an old Indian who acted as prompter. Sometimes it was necessary to

allow the Indians to go abroad for a time, but then their return was

provided for by retaining the squaws and papooses as hostages, in the

same manner as they provided for the return of the plantation bulls, by

shutting up the cows and calves in the _corral_.

The system pursued by the Jesuits, and, after their expulsion, by the

Dominicans, was to treat the Indians as though they were half human and

the other half bestial. Abstractly considered, this was very wrong; but

it was practically the only system of treatment that gave any promise

of improving their condition. Though in many respects they were treated

as slaves, yet the missionaries had generally at heart the best

interests of the Indians. With them it was a settled rule, that when an

Indian was to be married, his kindred should be carefully inquired

after, and that among them he was to marry, or not at all; for long

experience had taught the fathers that certain diseases, hereditary

among them, were checked by each marrying into his own clan, while they

were aggravated by intermarriage with a stranger.

We may sum up the whole story of the combined missionary and

governmental efforts at colonization in Lower Peninsular California,

during a period of two hundred and fifty years, by saying that they

jointly succeeded in establishing a poverty-stricken village of mud

huts, called San Josef, at Cape San Lucas, where the Manilla galleon,

on its voyage to Acapulco, could procure a supply of fresh vegetables

to stay the ravages of the scurvy among its crew. They also established

a less important village at La Paz, which, with Loretto, and divers

small hamlets and ranches, constitutes all there is of this parched

peninsula.

Upper California comes to my aid in illustration of the early condition

of Mexico, for, without this assistance, many phenomena that are

witnessed in Mexico would be inexplicable. The effects of sudden

wealth, the great accumulations of precious metals in few hands, the

gross immoralities to which such a state of things gives rise, the

almost fabulous state of society that arises when, by delays in its

export, the accumulations become burdensome to the possessors, are no

longer novelties in our day, and they now serve to illustrate the

romance of the history of other times.

When, in the year 1847, a party of American settlers and trappers

hoisted the bear-flag in Upper California, their situation was

strikingly similar to that of Cortez and his party. Numbers were about

equal in each case. The Territory of California was equal to the whole

empire of Montezuma. The hunters and trappers had a more formidable

enemy to contend with than Cortez had; but they proved themselves more

than a match for all antagonists. Like Cortez, they found numerous

villages of mud huts and a country governed by priests, but immensely

superior in civilization and in arms to the Aztecs.

MISSIONS IN CALIFORNIA.

In 1776, the monks of the angelic order of San Francis had established

missions along the coast. Adopting in this fertile country the practice

of enforcing the labor of the Indians, the missions became vast grazing

farms, where the priest, like the patriarchs of old, was the spiritual

and temporal head of the establishment, and had flocks and herds

innumerable. Villages (_pueblos_) had been established by the aid of

the royal government, and mud forts (_presidios_) were founded as a

protection to both mission and pueblo; and ranges (_ranchos_) for

cattle were granted to individuals.

Such was California when it submitted to the "Plan of Iguala." It was

reported to have had 75,000 Indians in connection with its missions,

and a large white and mixed population. But, according to our custom,

we must deduct two thirds from all Spanish enumerations, and estimate

the population of every class at only 25,000 at most.

The priests of the missions had quietly acquiesced in the usurpation of

Iturbide, and acknowledged his empire; but when Santa Anna proclaimed a

republic, they were struck with horror. The idea of conferring civil

rights upon Indians was monstrous. The very existence of the missions

depended on keeping these poor creatures in servitude. And as for

republicanism, that was incompatible with the government of the Church;

and, as good Catholics and priests, they solemnly protested against it.

Had these missionaries been as poor as the apostles, they probably

would not have been disturbed for their want of republicanism. But

their wealth proved their ruin, and the ruin of Upper California.

The new republic was at peace, and the surplus soldiery had to be got

rid of. It was not safe to disband them at home, where they might take

to the roads and become successful robbers; but 1500 of the worst were

selected for a distant expedition--the conquest of the far-off

territory of California. And then a general was found who was in all

respects worthy of his soldiery. He was pre-eminently the greatest

coward in the Mexican army--so great a coward, that he subsequently,

without striking a blow, surrendered a fort, with a garrison of 500

men, unconditionally, to a party of 50 foreigners.

MEXICAN CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.

Such was the great General Echandrea, the Mexican conqueror of

California; and such was the army that he led to the conquest of

unarmed priests and an unarmed province. It was a perilous

expedition--perilous, not to the soldiers, but to the villagers upon

their route. All dreaded their approach and rejoiced at their

departure, for their march through their own country was a continued

triumph, if one may judge from the amount of plunder they took from

their friends upon the road. It was an expedition that Falstaff would

have rejoiced to command, and his regiment would have distinguished

themselves in such a war. Dry and dusty were the desert plains over

which they marched, and dry and dusty were the throats of the army, for

_cigaritos_ were scarce, and _muscal_ could seldom be found. But the

toils of the long marches were relieved by frequent _fandangoes_, for

the wives that followed the expedition equaled the men in numbers and

courage.

This long journey, and these days of perilous marching and nights of

dancing, at length came to an end by their arrival at the enemy's

frontier--the frontier of California, which, to their joy, they found

unguarded; nor was there any found to dispute their passage or "to make

them afraid;" for, had there been fifty resolute persons to oppose

them, this valiant army would have absconded, and California would have

remained an appanage of the crown of Spain. But Providence had ordered

it otherwise; and this horde of vagabonds (_leperos_) came rushing

on, with their wives and children, until they reached the cattle-yards

(_corrals_), and then was displayed their valor and their capacity

for beef, and in the name of "God and Liberty" they gratified their

appetite for plunder. The priests, on their part, stood up manfully,

and witnessed a good confession. They refused to accept this phantom of

liberty which a party of vagabonds brought to them. The conquerors,

however, could afford to be magnanimous in the midst of so much good

eating, and no vengeance was inflicted upon unarmed men. But when the

prefect of the missions was shipped off to Manilla, the war was at an

end, for there was no means of defense, or, rather, it was changed from

a war against priests to one against the cattle.

Thus was California conquered and annexed to the United States of

Mexico in the year 1825, and the laws and constitution of that republic

extended over it. But it is an abuse of words to say that any law

existed from that time onward. The confusion produced by the irruption

of this horde of vagabonds continued uninterrupted, and it involved, in

one chaotic mass, law, order, and every public and private right. The

history of the country is inexplicable, and its public archives are a

mass of such gross irregularities, and show such a total disregard of

all law, that they are little better than the Sibylline leaves.

AMERICAN CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA.

The party that raised the "bear flag" met with no opposition. The party

that landed from the shipping, and took possession of Monterey and San

Francisco, were alike successful. But when a small party of American

soldiers, under General Kearney, entered the country from the west, the

_rancheros_ took the alarm, and rushed forth on their fleet horses to

defend their private property from spoliation, for they had no idea of

regular soldiers disconnected from robbery and cattle-stealing! The

Californians fought bravely, and hemmed in the little army of Americans

until they were in a suffering condition for provisions, and until the

dreaded hunters and trappers, and draughts from the shipping, routed

the herdsmen and released the beleaguered force. This is all there was

that looked like war in the American acquisition of this most valuable

territory.

Not only was there this similarity in respect to the inadequate means

by which Mexico and California were acquired, but there is also a

striking similarity in the fact of the immediate discovery of

inexhaustible mines of precious metals, that gave importance to an

otherwise comparatively insignificant conquest. Though so many

centuries apart, each produced the same effect upon the political

affairs of nations by suddenly furnishing the world with an abundant

supply of the precious metals. The mines of Mexico, with some small

supplies from South America, furnished the sinews of those religious

wars that desolated Europe after the Reformation, and enabled Spain to

maintain her vast armaments in the Spanish peninsula, and in her

Italian kingdoms and principalities, and in her Belgian provinces.

Spain was able to subsidize the armies of the Catholic League in

France, and the forces of the Catholic Princes of Germany, and to turn

back the tide of the Protestant Reformation after it had entered Italy,

overrun Navarre, and reached her own frontier. The gold of California

and Australia has furnished England the sinews by which she has set on

foot armies, and subsidized nations in the present crusade against

Russia.

At the time of the Reformation, all the precious metals were poured

into the lap of a fanatical Catholic government; now they are in

Protestant hands, and all, at last, find their resting-place, even

those of Mexico, in the London market; while out of English

Protestantism has our republic arisen, which is still united to her by

a common language, a common religion, and commercial relations, so that

the London market regulates the value of our stocks and the price of

the food we eat. But our common Protestantism is not the Protestantism

of the Reformation: that was the Protestantism of princes, and every

where rested for support upon state patronage, the people, in that

epoch, having no political existence. Protestantism was then a state

institution, and soon lost its vitality in such an unnatural alliance.

The Protestantism of our day is the Protestantism of dissent, which

rejects state support, yet has shown itself more powerful than

governments. It has restored peace to Ireland, and made its proselytes

there by tens of thousands after the last British regiment was

withdrawn. It has rent in twain the Church of Scotland, and is fast

revolutionizing the Church of England, by driving to Rome those who

prefer superstition to democracy, while it draws the remainder of the

nation to itself. In the United States it is the ruling power, though

it has here no political authority. It has penetrated the most obscure

hamlets of France and Spain, and made thousands of converts in Italy

itself. And where its preachers could not penetrate, there the written

Word has found its way.

MEXICO TWO CENTURIES AGO.

The letters of Cortez show that he, like his master, was above the

superstitions of the Spanish race; yet both, skillful diplomatists,

knew well how to avail themselves of the superstitions of others. The

early Spanish adventurers to Mexico were a good illustration of the

doctrine of total depravity, and the priests, that held them in

leading-strings, were as depraved as themselves. "Like priests, like

people." Our first settlers in California had learned self-government

and self-control in the school of Protestantism; and when they took

possession of that part of the country beyond the limit of Spanish

settlements, where there were no laws and no written code, they were a

law unto themselves, and the Spanish Americans that gathered about them

found more perfect protection to life and property than they had ever

before enjoyed. The Spanish adventurers at Mexico lavished the wealth

which they had acquired by the forced labor of the Indians in the mines

upon priests and monks, who amused them with lying miracles. They also

gave money as an atonement for the criminal lives they led, and to

shield themselves from the vengeance of the Inquisition, where they

were suspected of being rich. The religion of the Californians was a

simple veneration for the truths of Scripture. In some it amounted to

devotion, but it was devotion sanctioned by reason and the

understanding. They all alike despised superstition and abhorred

despotism. In conclusion, I may add, that, had such a race of men as I

saw in the mountains and villages of California at an early period of

its settlement existed at the time of the conquest of Mexico, they

would have revolutionized the world.

We have heard much of the immorality, excessive extravagance and luxury

of the cities of California; but the following picture of the state of

the city of Mexico in the heyday of its prosperity, five years before

it was destroyed by an inundation, is from the black-letter volume of

Thomas Gage, of which I have already availed myself.

"Almost all Mexico is now built with very fair and spacious houses,

with gardens of recreation. The streets are very broad; in the

narrowest of them three coaches may go, and in the broadest of them six

may go in the breadth of them, which makes the city seem a great deal

bigger than it is. In my time it was thought to be of between thirty

and forty thousand inhabitants, Spaniards, who are so proud and rich,

that half the city was judged to keep coaches; for it was a most

credible report that in Mexico there were about 15,000 coaches.

"It is a by-word that at Mexico there are four things fair; that is to

say, the women, the apparel, the horses, and the streets. But to this I

may add the beauty of some of the coaches of the gentry, which do

exceed in cost the best of the court of Madrid, and other parts of

Christendom, for they spare no silver, nor gold, nor precious stones,

nor cloth of gold, nor the best silks from China, to enrich them; and

to the gallantry of their horses the pride of some doth add the cost of

bridles and shoes of silver. The streets of Christendom must not

compare with those in breadth and cleanness, but especially in the

riches of the shops which do adorn them. Above all, the goldsmith's

shops and works are to be admired. The [East] Indians, and the people

of China, that have been made Christians, and every year come thither,

have perfected the Spaniards in that trade. There is in the cloister of

the Dominicans a lamp hanging in the Church, with three hundred

branches wrought in silver, to hold so many candles, besides a hundred

little lamps for oil set in it, every one being made with several

workmanship so exquisitely that it is valued to be worth four hundred

thousand ducats; and with such like curious works are many streets made

more rich and beautiful from the shops of goldsmiths.

"To the by-word touching the beauty of the women I must add the liberty

they enjoy for gaming, which is such that the day and night is too

short for them to end a _primera_ when once it is begun; nay, gaming is

so common to them, that they invite gentlemen to their houses for no

other end. To myself it happened that, passing along the streets in

company with a friar that came with me the year before from Spain, a

gentlewoman of great birth, knowing us to be new-comers, from her

window called unto us, and, after two or three slight questions

concerning Spain, asked us if we would come in and play with her a game

at _primera_. Both men and women are excessive in their apparel, using

more silks than stuffs and cloth. Precious stones and pearls farther

much this vain ostentation. A hatband and rose made of diamonds in a

gentleman's hat is common, and a hatband of pearls is ordinary in a

tradesman; nay, a blackamore, or tawney young maid and slave, will make

hard shift but she will be in fashion with her neck-chain and Bracelets

of pearls, and her ear-bobs of considerable jewels.

[Illustration: MEXICAN COSTUMES.]

"Their clothing is a petticoat of silk or cloth, with many silver or

golden laces, with a very double ribbon of some light color, with long

silver or golden tags hanging down in front the whole length of their

petticoat to the ground, and the like behind; their waistcoats made

like bodies, with skirts, laced likewise with gold and silver, without

sleeves, and a girdle about their waist of great price, stuck with

pearls and knobs of gold. Their sleeves are broad and open at the end,

of Holland or fine China linen, wrought, some with colored silks, some

with silk and gold, some with silk and silver, hanging down almost to

the ground; the locks of their heads are covered with some wrought

quoif, and over it another of net-work of silk, bound with a fair silk,

or silver, or golden ribbon, which crosses the upper part of their

foreheads, and hath commonly worked out in letters some light and

foolish love posie; their bare, black, and tawney breasts, are covered

with bobs hanging from their chains of pearls. And when they go abroad,

they use a white mantle of lawn or cambric, rounded with a broad lace,

which some put over their heads, the breadth reaching only to their

middles behind, that their girdle and ribbons may be seen, and the two

ends before reaching to the ground almost; others cast their mantles

only upon their shoulders; and swaggerers like to cast the one end over

the left shoulder, while with their right arm they support the lower

part of it, more like roaring boys than honest civil maids. Their shoes

are high and of many soles, the outside whereof of the profaner sort

are plated over with a lift of silver, which is fastened with small

nails with broad silver heads. Most of these are or have been slaves,

though love have set them loose at liberty to enslave souls to sin and

Satan; and for the looseness of their lives, and public scandals

committed by them and the better sort of the Spaniards, I have heard

them say often, who possessed more religion and fear of God, they

verily thought God would destroy that city, and give up the country

into the power of some other nation.

"And I doubt not but the flourishing of Mexico in coaches, horses,

streets, women, and apparel, is very slippery, and will make those

proud inhabitants slip and fall into the power and dominion of some

other prince of this world, and hereafter, in the world to come, into

the powerful hands of an angry Judge, who is the King of kings and Lord

of lords, which Paul saith (Heb. x. 31) is a fearful thing. For this

city doth not only flourish in the ways aforesaid, but also in the

superstitious worshiping of God and the saints they exceed Rome itself,

and all other places of Christendom. And it is a thing which I have

very much and carefully observed in all my travels, both in Europe and

America, that in those cities wherein there is most lewd licentiousness

of life, there is also most cost in the temples, and most public

superstitious worship of God and the saints."

So much for worthy Thomas Gage, and his estimate of the Mexicans of his

day.

AMERICANS IN CALIFORNIA.

I arrived at San Francisco in the midst of the gold excitement. The

town was crowded with rough-looking muscular men in red shirts, slouch

hats, and trowsers over which were drawn high-topped boots. A Colt's

revolver, a belt filled with gold, and an unshaven visage completed the

_tout ensemble_ of a crowd who were purchasing supplies for their

companions in the mines. They strode along, conscious that they

belonged to the Anglo-Saxon race and the aristocracy of labor. As they

turned into the temporary houses or booths which then constituted the

town, or threaded their way among the piles of merchandise that

encumbered the streets, the effeminate natives instinctively shrunk

back, conscious of their own imbecility; the Spanish Americans were

overawed by their presence; and even Sidney convicts thought it most

profitable to turn their thoughts to honest labor.

The miner had his vices too as well as his virtues. If you will follow

him as he opens right and left a crowd that surrounds a table heaped

with lumps of gold and silver coin, you will see how carelessly he

throws down a piece of metal, looking sharply into the eye of the

cunning dealer of the monte cards. If he detects a false move, he cocks

his weapon, and draws the gold back into his bag and strides away.

Such were the men who knew no fear, and dreaded no labor or fatigue,

and who have made California in five short years a state more powerful

than the Republic of Mexico.

In an interior town I was called to practice as an attorney. My first

client was the driver of an ox-team, who was suing for extra services

in addition to his regular wages of five hundred dollars a month and

board (Doe _vs._ Pickett). My office was a space of four feet by six,

partitioned off by two cotton sheets, in the corner of a canvas store.

The ground was for a while the floor; yet I paid in advance the monthly

rent of two ounces of gold, and never had occasion to regret the

outlay. The heavy winter rains at length compelled my landlord to lay a

floor of rough boards, which cost him seven hundred dollars for a

thousand feet.

Before the establishment of the state government, there was a judiciary

created by an autocratical edict of General Riley; and a pamphlet,

extracted and translated from the Mexican Constitutional laws of 1836,

constituted the _Corpus Juris Civilis_ of the Territory of California.

The remainder of the law was made up of the judge's ideas of equity,

and of the law he had read before leaving home. Inartificial and rude

as was this system, still it was wonderfully efficient; and it was well

for the people of California that it was so, for an unparalleled

immigration had brought with it an unparalleled amount of litigation.

With the daily occurring causes of litigation, crowds assembled at the

school-house on the Plaza, where from morning to night sat a judge

dispensing off-hand justice. In front of him sat three or four clerks

conducting the business. The crowds of lawyers, litigants, and

witnesses that surrounded the court were not idle spectators, but

represented the ordinary accumulation of business for the day, which

was to be disposed of before the adjournment of the court. Speedy

justice was more desirable than exact justice, where labor was valued

at a gold ounce a day; and none were more desirous of speed than the

lawyers, whose prospects of compensation depended much upon the

promptitude with which judgment was rendered.

The moving spirit of the whole scene, Judge A----, watched from behind

the desk all that was said or done, seldom withdrawing his attention

unless to administer an oath for the consideration of one dollar, or to

sign an order for the consideration of two dollars. Sometimes he would

change his position; but, whether warming his uncovered feet at the

fire-place, or drawing on his boots, or replenishing his stock of

tobacco, there was the same unalterable attention on his part. As soon

as he comprehended a case, his authoritative voice was heard, closing

the discussion, and dictating to a clerk the exact number of dollars

and cents for which he should enter up a judgment. And then another,

and another case was called up, and submitted to this summary process,

until about nine o'clock at night, when the day's work terminated. All

orders asked for by a responsible attorney were granted _ex parte_, the

judge remarking that if the order was not a proper one, the other party

would soon appear, and then he could ascertain the real merits of the

case. The grand feature of this court was the facility with which an

injunction could be obtained, and the rapidity with which it could be

set aside.

CALIFORNIAN COURTS.

Crime was almost unknown until we got a state government and a code of

laws, which, with misplaced philanthropy, had made the legal practice

so easy upon criminals that a conviction was next to impossible. Then

it was that crime stalked abroad in the face of day, and Sidney

convicts plied their trade in San Francisco after it had become a city.

Shops were entered and robbed in business hours; and by night, men were

murdered in the streets; and thefts escaped punishment. Then it was

that men, caught in the commission of crime, were hanged in the open

streets, and combinations were formed for self-defense. But when a new

Legislature gave efficiency to the laws, the community yielded a

willing obedience to the magistrate. From an early day there had been

"miners' courts," which, with their alcaldes, had conciliated

differences. But when magistrates were elected, these courts

disappeared. This was a change from bad to worse, for no condition is

so deplorable as that of a people whose magistracy are powerless.

Such is a fair picture of California in its worst estate, when the

worst and the best of all nations were there congregated, and kept in

subjection by the law-abiding spirit of an Anglo-Saxon immigration--a

state of society in the first year of its existence, yet infinitely

superior to that existing in the city of Mexico a hundred years after

the discovery of the mines of Haxal and Pachuca. But we may complete

the contrast by adding the more deplorable part of the picture which

Friar Thomas Gage has drawn.

"It seems," says he, "that religion teaches that all wickedness is

allowable, so that the churches and clergy flourish. Nay, while the

purse is open to lasciviousness, if it be likewise open to enrich the

temple walls and roofs, this is better than any holy water, or water to

wash away the filth of the other. Rome is held to be the head of

superstition; and what stately churches, chapels, and cloisters are in

it! What fastings, what processions, what appearances of devotion! And,

on the other side, what liberty, what profaneness, what whoredoms, nay,

what sins of Sodom are committed in it, insomuch that it could be the

saying of a friar to myself, while I was in it, that he verily thought

there was no one city in the world wherein were more Atheists than in

Rome. I might show this much in Madrid, Seville, Valladolid, and other

famous cities in Spain and in Italy; in Milan, Genoa, and Naples;

relating many instances of scandals committed in those places, and yet

the temples are mightily enriched by those who have thought their alms

a sufficient warrant to free them from hell and purgatory. But I must

return to Mexico, which furnishes a thousand witnesses of this

truth--sin and wickedness abounding in it--and yet no such people in

the world toward the Church and clergy. In their lifetime they strive

to excel one another in their gifts to the cloisters of nuns and

friars, some erecting altars to their best-devoted saints, worth many

thousand ducats, others presenting crowns of gold to the pictures of

Mary, others lamps, others golden chains, others building cloisters at

their own charge, others repairing them, others, at their death,

leaving to them two or three thousand ducats for an annual stipend.

MEXICO TWO CENTURIES AGO.

"Among these great benefactors to the churches of that city, I should

wrong my history if I should forget one that lived in my time, called

Alonzo Cuellar, who was reported to have a closet in his house laid

with bars of gold instead of brick; though indeed it was not so, but

only reported for his abundant riches and store of bars of gold, which

he had in one chest, standing in a closet distant from another, where

he had a chest full of wedges of silver. This man alone built a nunnery

for Franciscan nuns, which stood him in above 30,000 ducats, and left

unto it, for the maintenance of the nuns, 2000 ducats yearly, with

obligation of some masses to be said in the church every year for his

soul after his decease. And yet this man's life was so scandalous, that

commonly, in the night, with two servants, he would go round the city

visiting such scandalous persons, whose attire before hath been

described, carrying his beads in his hands, and at every house letting

fall a bead, and tying a false knot, that when he came home in the

morning, toward break of the day, he might number by his beads the

uncivil stations he had walked and visited that night.

"Great alms and liberality toward religious houses in that city

commonly are coupled with great and scandalous wickedness. They wallow

in the bed of riches and wealth, and make their alms the coverlet to

cover their loose and lascivious lives. From hence are the churches so

fairly built and adorned. There are not above fifty churches and

chapels, cloisters and nunneries, and parish churches in the city; but

those that are there are the fairest that ever my eyes beheld, the

roofs and beams being, in many of them, all daubed with gold, and many

altars with sundry marble pillars, and others with Brazil-wood stays

standing one above another, with tabernacles for several saints, richly

wrought with golden colors, so that twenty thousand ducats is a common

price of many of them. These cause admiration in the common sort of

people, and admiration brings on daily adoration in them to those

glorious spectacles and images of saints; so Satan shows Christ all the

glory of the kingdoms to entice him to admiration, and then he said,

'_All these things will I give thee if thou wilt fall down and worship

me_' (Matthew, iv. 8, 9). The devil will give all the world to be

adored.

"Besides these beautiful buildings, the inward riches belonging to the

altars are infinite in price and value, such as copes, canopies,

hangings, altar-cloths, candlesticks, jewels belonging to the saints,

and crowns of gold and silver, and tabernacles of gold and crystal to

carry about their sacrament [the Saviour of the world in the form of a

wafer] in procession, all of which would mount to the worth of a

reasonable mine of silver, and would be a rich prey for any nation that

could make better use of wealth and riches. I will not speak much of

the lives of the friars and nuns of this city, but only that they there

enjoy more liberty than in Europe--where they have too much--and that

surely the scandals committed by them do cry up to Heaven for

vengeance, judgment, destruction.

"It is ordinary for the friars to visit their devoted nuns, and to

spend whole days with them, hearing their music, feeding on their

sweetmeats; and for this purpose they have many chambers, which they

call _loquatories_, to talk in, with wooden bars between the nuns and

them; and in these chambers are tables for the friars to dine at, and

while they dine the nuns recreate them with their voices. Gentlemen and

citizens give their daughters to be brought up in these nunneries,

where they are taught to make all sorts of conserves and preserves, all

sorts of music, which is so exquisite in that city that I dare be bold

to say that the people are drawn to churches more for the delight of

the music than for any delight in the service of God. More, they teach

these young children to act like players; and, to entice the people to

the churches, they make these children act short dialogues in their

choirs, richly attiring them with men and women's apparel, especially

upon Midsummer's day and the eight days before their Christmas, which

is so gallantly performed that many factious strifes and single combats

have been, and some were in my time, for defending which of these

nunneries most excelled in music and in the training up of children."

Such is a picture drawn by a candid writer of one of the most devout

Catholic cities in the world, where licentiousness and papacy went hand

in hand until they reached that extreme point of corruption, that, as

in the case of Sodom, God overthrew the city by a judgment from heaven;

not by fire and brimstone, but by a water-spout, which, in the space of

the five years that it lay upon the town three feet deep, loosened the

foundations of all buildings and impoverished the inhabitants. And when

at length the earth opened and swallowed up these waters, the city had

to be rebuilt. The misery and distress that this flood inflicted upon

the lower orders of the inhabitants was great in the extreme.

It was on Sunday morning that the cause of the moral superiority of the

American miners over those of Mexico was visible. Then the noise and

bustle about my residence was hushed. The most immoral seemed to be

overawed by a sense of respect for the religious opinions of others;

and when the sound of a ship-bell, hung on the limb of a tree, was

heard, all except the baser sort repaired to the shade of an oak, so

large and venerable that it might have shielded the whole household of

Abraham while engaged in family worship. A portable seraphine gave

forth a familiar tune, in which all joined in singing with a zest which

is only realized by those whom it carries back in recollection to

distant home. Then the voice of the preacher was heard invoking the

blessing of God upon the assembled worshipers, and his pardon of their

offenses; and then followed his exhortation to seek from God the pardon

of their many sins; and as he, with heartfelt earnestness, "reasoned of

righteousness, temperance, and a judgment to come," many a

stern-visaged miner trembled for his condition, and went away a better

and a more honest man--ten thousand times more improved than if he had

presented a crown of gold to the Virgin Mary.

We are now prepared to enter the valley of Mexico, and examine the

objects that there present themselves.

[26] _Colleccion de Leyes_, p. 180.

[27] "The whole Pacific coast produces pearls, but the most

extensive pearl-fisheries, at the present time, are in the Gulf

of California, where, among an inexhaustible supply of little

pearls, there are produced some of the very finest quality. The

pearls of the Countess de Regla, those of the Marquesa de

Gudalupe, and Madame Velasco, are from these fisheries, and are

remarkable for their great size and value. The great pearl

presented to General Victoria, while he was President, was from

the same locality." (WARD, vol. ii. p. 293.)

"The pearls of this gulf are considered of excellent water, but

their rather irregular figure somewhat reduces their value. The

manner of obtaining pearls is not without interest. The vessels

employed in the fisheries are from fifteen to thirty tons burden.

They are usually fitted out by private individuals. The armador

or owner commands them. Crews are shipped to work them, and from

forty to fifty Indians, called Busos, to dive for the oyster. A

stock of provisions and spirits, a small sum of money to advance

the people during the cruise, a limited supply of calaboose

furniture, a sufficient number of hammocks to sleep in, and a

quantity of ballast, constitute nearly all the cargo outward

bound.

"Thus arranged, they sail into the Gulf; and, having arrived at

the oyster banks, cast anchor and commence business. The divers

are first called to duty. They plunge to the bottom in four or

five fathom water, dig up with sharpened sticks as many oysters

as they are able, rise to the surface, and deposit them in sacks

hung to receive them at the vessel's side. And thus they continue

to do till the sacks are filled, or the hours allotted to this

part of the labor are ended.

"When the diving of the day is done, all come on board and place

themselves in a circle around the armador, who divides what they

have obtained in the following manner: two oysters for himself,

the same number for the Busos, or divers, and one for the

government. This division having been concluded, they next

proceed, without moving from their places, to open the oysters

which have fallen to the lot of the armador. During this

operation, that dignitary has to watch the Busos with the

greatest scrutiny, to prevent them from swallowing the pearls

with the oysters, a trick which they perform with so much

dexterity as to almost defy detection, and by means of which they

often manage to secrete the most valuable pearls.

"The government portion is next opened with the same precautions,

and taken into possession by the armador. And, last of all, the

Busos open theirs, and sell them to the armador in liquidation of

debts incurred for their outfits, or of moneys advanced during

the voyage. They usually reserve a few to sell to dealers on

shore, who always accompany these expeditions with spirituous

liquors, chocolate, sugar, cigars, and other articles of which

Indian divers are especially fond. Since the Mexicans obtained

their independence, another mode of division has been adopted.

Every time the Busos come up, the largest oyster which he has

obtained is taken by the armador, and laid aside for the use of

the Virgin Mary. The rest are thrown in a pile; and, when the

day's diving is ended, eight oysters are laid out for the

armador, eight for the Busos, and two for the government.

"In the year 1831, one vessel with seventy Busos, another with

fifty, and two with thirty each, and two boats with ten each,

from the coast of Sonora, engaged in this fishery. The one

brought in forty ounces of pearls, valued at $6500; another,

twenty-one ounces, valued at $3000; another, twelve ounces,

valued at $2000, and the two boats a proportionate quantity.

There were, in the same season, ten or twelve other vessels, from

other parts, employed in the same trade, which, if equally

successful, swelled the value of pearls taken in that year to the

sum of more than forty thousand dollars."--FARNHAM'S _Scenes in

the Pacific_, p. 307.

Mexico and Its Religion With Incidents of Travel in That Country During Parts of the Years 1851-52-53-54, and Historical Notices of Events Connected With Places Visited · 第 13 / 34 章