CHAPTER VIII.

LLAMAS, ALPACOS, VICUÑAS, AND GUANACOS.

Our travellers were stirring by early break of day. As they issued from

the hut, a singular and interesting scene presented itself to their

eyes. At one view--one _coup d'oeil_--they beheld the whole four species

of the celebrated camel-sheep of the Andes; for there are four of

them,--llama, guanaco, alpaco, and vicuña! This was a rare sight,

indeed. They were all browsing upon the open plain: first, the llamas,

near the hut; then a flock of tame alpacos, out upon the plain; thirdly,

a herd of seven guanacos farther off; and still more distant, a larger

herd of the shy vicuñas. The guanacos and vicuñas were of uniform

colours,--that is, in each flock the colour of the individuals was the

same; while among the llamas and alpacos there were many varieties of

colour. The latter two kinds were tame,--in fact, they were under the

charge of Guapo's friend the shepherd, whereas the herds of vicuñas and

guanacos consisted of wild animals.

Perhaps no animal of South America has attracted so much attention as

the llama, as it was the only beast of burden the Indians had trained to

their use on the arrival of Europeans in that country. So many strange

stories were told by the earlier Spanish travellers regarding this

"camel-sheep," that it was natural that great interest should attach to

it. These reported that the llama was used for riding. Such, however, is

not the case. It is only trained to carry burdens; although an Indian

boy may be sometimes seen on the back of a llama for mischief, or when

crossing a stream and the lad does not wish to get his feet wet.

The llama is three feet high from hoof to shoulder, though his long neck

makes him look taller. His colour is generally brown, with black and

yellow shades, sometimes speckled or spotted; and there are black and

white llamas, but these are rare. His wool is long and coarse, though

the females, which are smaller, have a finer and better wool. The latter

are never used to carry burdens, but only kept for breeding. They are

fed in flocks upon the Puna heights, and it was a flock of these that

our travellers saw near the hut.

The males are trained to carry burdens at the age of four years. A

pack-saddle, called _yergua_, woven out of course wool, is fastened on

the back, and upon this the goods are placed. The burden never exceeds

120 or 130 pounds. Should a heavier one be put on, the llama, like the

camel, quite understands that he is "over-weighted," and neither coaxing

nor beating will induce him to move a step. He will lie down, or, if

much vexed, spit angrily at his driver, and this spittle has a highly

acrid property, and will cause blisters on the skin where it touches.

Sometimes a llama, over vexed by ill-treatment, has been known, in

despair, to dash his brains out against a rock.

The llamas are used much in the mines of Peru, for carrying the ore.

They frequently serve better than either asses or mules, as they can

pass up and down declivities where neither ass nor mule can travel. They

are sometimes taken in long trains from the mountains down to the coast

region for salt and other goods; but on such occasions many of them die,

as they cannot bear the warm climate of the lowlands. Their proper and

native place is on the higher plains of the Andes.

A string of llamas, when on a journey, is a very interesting spectacle.

One of the largest is usually the leader. The rest follow in single

file, at a slow, measured pace, their heads ornamented tastefully with

ribands, while small bells, hanging around their necks, tinkle as they

go. They throw their high heads from side to side, gazing around them,

and when frightened at anything, will "break ranks," and scamper out of

their path, to be collected again with some trouble.

When resting, they utter a low, humming noise, which has been compared

to the sound of an Eolian harp. They crouch down on their breast--where

there is a callosity--when about to receive their burdens, and also

sleep resting in the same attitude. A halt during the day is necessary,

in order that they may be fed, as these animals will not eat by night.

In consequence of this they make but short journeys--ten to fifteen

miles--although they will travel for a long time, allowing them a day's

rest out of every five or six. Like the camels of the East, they can go

days without water, and Buffon knew one that went _eighteen months_

without it! but Buffon is very poor authority. When one of them becomes

wearied, and does not wish to proceed, it is exceedingly difficult to

coax him onward.

These animals were at one time very valuable. On the discovery of

America a llama cost as much as eighteen or twenty dollars. But the

introduction of mules and other beasts of burden has considerably

cheapened them. At present they are sold for about four dollars in the

mining districts, but can be bought where they are bred and reared for

half that amount. In the days of the Incas their flesh was much used as

food. It is still eaten; but for this purpose the common sheep is

preferred, as the flesh of the llama is spongy and not very well

flavoured. The wool is used for many sorts of coarse manufacture. So

much for llamas. Now the "guanaco."

This animal (whose name is sometimes written "huanaca," though the

pronunciation is the same with "guanaco" or "guanaca") is larger than

the llama, and for a long time was considered merely as the wild llama,

or the llama _run wild_, in which you will perceive an essential

distinction. It is neither, but an animal of specific difference. It

exists in a wild state in the high mountains, though, with great care

and trouble, it can be domesticated and trained to carry burdens as well

as its congener the llama. In form it resembles the latter, but, as is

the case with most wild animals, the guanacos are all alike in colour.

The upper parts of the body are of a reddish brown, while underneath it

is a dirty white. The lips are white, and the face a dark grey. The wool

is shorter than that of the llama, and of the same length all over the

body. The guanaco lives in herds of five or seven individuals, and these

are very shy, fleeing to the most inaccessible cliffs when any one

approaches them. Like the chamois of Switzerland and the "bighorn" of

the Rocky Mountains, they can glide along steep ledges when neither men

nor dogs can find footing.

The "alpaco," or "paco," as it is sometimes called, is one of the most

useful of the Peruvian sheep, and is more like the common sheep than the

others. This arises from its bulkier shape, caused by its thick fleece

of long wool. The latter is soft, fine, and often five inches in length;

and, as is well known, has become an important article in the

manufacture of cloth. Its colour is usually either white or black,

though there are some of the alpacos speckled or spotted. Ponchos are

woven out of alpaco-wool by the Indians of the Andes.

The alpaco is a domesticated animal, like the llama, but it is not used

for carrying burdens. It is kept in large flocks, and regularly shorn as

sheep are. If one of the alpacos gets separated from the flock, it will

lie down and suffer itself to be beaten to death, rather than go the way

its driver wishes. You have, no doubt, sometimes seen a common sheep

exhibit similar obstinacy.

Of all the Peruvian sheep the vicuña is certainly the prettiest and most

graceful. It has more the form of the deer or antelope than of the

sheep, and its colour is so striking that it has obtained among the

Peruvians the name of the animal itself, _color de vicuña_ (vicuña

colour). It is of a reddish yellow, not unlike that of our domestic red

cat, although the breast and under parts of the body are white. The

flesh of the vicuña is excellent eating, and its wool is of more value

than even that of the alpaco. Where a pound of the former sells for one

dollar--which is the usual price--the pound of alpaco will fetch only a

quarter of that sum. Hats and the finest fabrics can be woven from the

fleece of the vicuña, and the Incas used to clothe themselves in rich

stuffs manufactured from it. In the present day the "ricos," or rich

proprietors of Peru, pride themselves in possessing ponchos of vicuña

wool.

The vicuña inhabits the high plains of the Andes, though, unlike the

guanaco, it rarely ventures up the rocky cliffs, as its hoofs are only

calculated for the soft turf of the plains. It roams about in larger

herds than the other--eighteen or twenty in the herd--and these are

usually females under the protection and guidance of one polygamous old

male. While feeding, the latter keeps watch over the flock, usually

posting himself at some distance, so that he may have a better

opportunity of seeing and hearing any danger that may approach. When any

is perceived, a shrill whistle from the leader and a quick stroke of his

hoof on the turf warn the flock; and all draw closely together, each

stretching out its head in the direction of the danger. They then take

to flight, at first slowly, but afterwards with the swiftness of the

roe; while the male, true to his trust, hangs in the rear, and halts at

intervals, as if to cover the retreat of the herd.

The llama, guanaco, alpaco, and vicuña, although different species, will

breed with each other; and it is certain that some of their hybrids will

again produce young. There exist, therefore, many intermediate

varieties, or "mules," throughout the countries of the Andes, some of

which have been mistaken for separate species.

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