CHAPTER IV.

THE SUPPER OF GUAPO.

I have said all ate of the supper. This is not strictly true. One of the

party did not touch it, and that was old Guapo. Why? Was he not hungry

like the rest? Yes; as hungry as any of them. Why then did he not eat of

the _charqui_ and ocas? Simply because Guapo had a supper of a very

different kind, which he carried in his pouch, and which he liked much

better than the charqui stew. What was it? It was "coca."

"Chocolate," you will say, or, as some call it, "cocoa," which should be

called, to name it properly, "cacao." No, I answer--it was not

chocolate, nor cocoa, nor cacao neither.

"It must have been cocoa-nuts then?" No; nor yet cocoa-nuts. The "coca,"

upon which Guapo made his supper, and which contented his stomach

perfectly for the night, was an article very different from either the

cacao which makes chocolate, or the nut of the cocoa-palm. You are now

impatient to hear what sort of thing it was, and I shall tell you at

once.

The coca is a small tree or shrub about six feet in height, which grows

in the warmer valleys among the Andes mountains. Its botanical name is

_Erythroxylon coca_. Its leaves are small and of a bright green colour,

and its blossoms white. Its fruits are very small scarlet berries. It is

a native plant, and, therefore, found in a wild state; but it is

cultivated by the planters of these countries in fields regularly laid

out, and hence called "cocales." This plant is raised from the seed, and

when the young shoots have attained the height of about eighteen inches,

they are transplanted and put down again at the distance of about a foot

apart from each other.

Now as these little bushes require a humid atmosphere, maize-plants are

sown between the rows to protect them from the sun. In other places

arbours of palm-leaves are constructed over the coca-plants. When no

rain falls, they are watered every five or six days. After about two and

a half years of this nursing, the coca-bush is ready for use, and it is

the leaves alone that are valuable. These are gathered with great care,

just as the Chinese gather the leaves of the tea-plant; and, as in

China, women are principally employed in this labour. The leaves are

said to be ripe, not when they have withered and turned brown, but at a

period when they are full-grown and become brittle. When this period

arrives, they are picked from the tree, and laid out on coarse woollen

cloths to dry in the sun.

When dried, they remain of a pale green colour; but should they get damp

during the process, they become darker, and are then of inferior

quality, and sell for a less price. When fully dried, they are carefully

packed in bags and covered up with dry sand, and are thus ready for the

market. Their price, on the spot where the crop is produced, is about

one shilling English per pound. They are, therefore, full as costly to

produce as tea itself, although the coca-bush will yield three crops of

leaves in one year--that is, a crop every four months; and one hundred

plants will produce about an arroba (25 lbs.) at a crop. The coca-plant

will continue to give fresh leaves for a long period of years, unless

attacked and destroyed by ants, which is not unfrequently the case.

Now, why have I so minutely described the coca-bush? Because, that, in

the economy of the life of those Indians who inhabit the countries of

the Andes mountains, this curious plant plays a most important part.

Scarcely one of these people is to be met with who is not an eater of

cocoa--a "coquero." With them it is what the tea-tree is to the Chinese.

Indeed, it is a curious fact, that in all parts of the world some

stimulating vegetable is used by the human race. Tea in China; the

betel-leaf, and the nut of the areca palm, among the Southern Asiatics;

the poppy in the East; with tobacco, and many like things, in other

countries.

But the coca not only supplies the Indian with a solace to his cares, it

forms the chief article of his food. With a supply of coca, an Indian

will support himself five or six days without eating anything else. The

poor miners, in the Peruvian mines, are all "coqueros;" and it is

alleged that, without coca, they would be unable to undergo the painful

toil to which their calling subjects them. When used to excess, the coca

produces deleterious effects on the human system; but, if moderately

taken, it is far more innocent in its results than either opium or

tobacco.

The coca-leaf is not eaten alone. A certain preparation is necessary,

and another substance is mixed with it before it produces the proper

effect. But let us watch the movements of Guapo, and we shall see how

_he_ does it, for Guapo is a confirmed coquero.

Guapo, true to his promise, does not sleep under the mollé trees. He

leaves the party, and, with a melancholy air, has climbed up and seated

himself upon a projecting rock, where he intends to pass the night. His

last glance at Don Pablo and his family was one of foreboding. He had

again remonstrated with his master, but to no purpose. The latter only

laughed at the earnestness of the old Indian, and told him to go to his

perch and leave the party to themselves.

It was still grey light when Guapo climbed up to the rock. Against the

sky his tall, lank form could be traced in all its outlines. For some

moments he sat in a serious and reflective mood--evidently busy with

thoughts about the "poison-trees." His appetite, however, soon got the

better of him; and he set to work to prepare his coca supper. It was a

simple operation.

Around Guapo's neck there hung a small pouch made of the skin of the

chinchilla, which beautiful little animal is a native of these parts.

This pouch contained a quantity of the dry leaves of the coca. Having

taken out some half-dozen of these leaves, he put them into his mouth

and commenced chewing them. In a short while, by the aid of tongue,

teeth, and lips, they were formed into a little ball of pulp, that

rolled about in his mouth. Another step in the process now became

necessary. A small gourd, that hung around Guapo's neck by a thong, was

laid hold of. This was corked with a wooden stopper, in which stopper a

wire pin was fixed, long enough to reach down to the bottom of the

gourd.

After taking out the stopper, Guapo applied the lower part of the pin to

his lips, and then, plunging it once more into the gourd, drew it out

again. This time the pin came out, with a fine whitish powder adhering

to the part that had been wetted. Now what was this powder? It was

nothing else than lime that had been burned, and pulverised. Perhaps it

was the ashes of the mollé tree, of which we have already spoken, and

which, as we have said, possess a highly alkaline property. The ashes of

the musa, or plaintain, are sometimes used; but, after all, it is most

likely that it was the mollé ashes which Guapo carried, for these are

most highly esteemed by the Indians of Southern Peru; and Guapo was a

connoisseur in coca-eating.

Whichever of the three it was--lime, mollé, or musa--Guapo carried the

pin to his mouth, and, without touching his lips (it would have burnt

him if he had), he inserted it, so as to penetrate the ball of chewed

cocoa-leaves that rested upon the tip of his tongue. This was stabbed

repeatedly and adroitly by the pin, until all the powder remained in the

coca-ball; and then the pin was withdrawn, wiped, and restored to its

place, along with the stopper of the gourd.

Guapo now remained quietly "ruminating" for a period of about forty

minutes--for this is about the time required for chewing a mess of

cocoa-leaves. Indeed, so exactly is this time observed, that the

Indians, when travelling, measure distances by it; and one "coceada" is

about equal to the time occupied in walking a couple of English miles.

The coceada of our old Indian being finished, he drew his llama-wool

poncho around him; and, leaning back against the rock, was soon buried

in a profound slumber.

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