Care and Fitting, etc., of Harness. Care of Carriages. Care of Guns.
Care of Ammunition. Guard Orders.
CARE OF PAINTS, OILS, AND PAINT-BRUSHES.
=Paints, Turpentines, Oils, Lacquers, etc.=, are kept in a room
separate from other stores, preferably a cellar. The floor should be
covered with several inches of fine sand, which should be renewed
occasionally. Sawdust should _never_ be used for the floor.
=Volatile Oils=, such as kerosene or benzine, must never be kept stored
in a room with other oils and paints, but in such place that the least
possible danger will arise in case of fire.
=Paint-brushes=, when new, and before using, should be wrapped with
strong twine and soaked in water. After using they should be cleaned
with spirits of turpentine and put away in a vessel containing water,
in order to keep them pliable.
PAINTS, LACQUERS, ETC.
=Waterproof Paint.=--A solution of pure india-rubber in linseed-oil,
ground with pure graphite into a thick, elastic, smoothly flowing paint.
=Flexible Paint for Canvas.=--Dissolve 2½ pounds of yellow soap in
1½ gallons of boiling water. Grind while hot with any good oil-paint.
=Varnish for Harness.=--India-rubber, ½ pound; spirits of turpentine, 1
gallon. Dissolve enough to make it a jelly; then take equal quantities
of good hot linseed-oil and the above mixture, incorporate well over a
slow fire, and it is ready for use.
=Linseed-oil Varnish.=--Boil any quantity of linseed-oil for an hour,
stir in until dissolved 4 ounces of powdered rosin to each pound of
oil; then add 1 ounce spirits of turpentine to each pound of oil; cool
and strain. It is cheap, a good preservative of wood, and stands hot
water well.
=Lacquer for Iron Ordnance.=--Coal-tar (of good quality), 2 gallons;
spirits of turpentine, 1 pint; the turpentine to be added in small
quantities during the application of the lacquer. The surface of
the metal must be first cleaned with a scraper and a wire brush, if
necessary, and the lacquer applied hot, in two thin coats, with a
paint-brush.
=Lacquer for Bright Ironwork.=--Boiled linseed-oil, 80.5 parts;
litharge, 5.5 parts; white lead ground in oil, 11.25 parts; pulverized
rosin, 2.75 parts. Add the litharge to the oil; let it simmer over a
slow fire for three hours; strain it and add the rosin and white lead;
keep it gently warmed, and stir until the rosin is dissolved. Apply it
with a paint-brush.
=Lacquer for Brasswork.=--Alcohol (95%), 2 ounces; seed-lac, 1 ounce.
Put in glass for six days, exposed to the light; shake well once each
day. Apply with brush while work is hot.
=To Attach Leather to Metal.=--Coat the metal with a hot solution of
glue and the leather with a hot solution of nut-galls.
DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING MOULDY LEATHER.
First. Wash thoroughly in soap-suds with a brush, so as to remove all
dirt and mould.
Second. Sponge with clean water, and before the leather dries apply
with a sponge tied to a handle a solution of ammonia and water in equal
parts, using 4 Fs. ammonia.
Third. Apply, when dry, a coat of leather blacking. (A good blacking
can be made by placing in 5 gallons of best cider vinegar ¼ pound of
pulverized nut-galls, 2 pounds of copperas, 1 pound of iron filings
or chips, and letting it stand for five days before use, stirring
carefully from time to time.)
Fourth. After the leather is dry apply a good coating of oil--1 part of
kerosene and 4 parts of neat's-foot. Apply freely so as to soften the
leather, and let it dry sufficiently.
Fifth. Brush the pieces well, and put on with a sponge a thin coat of
gum tragacanth, dissolving ¼ pound of gum in 1 gallon of warm water.
After drying the leather should be repacked, if desired to store it.
Harness in use which becomes hard from perspiration or from being wet
should be washed, oiled, and rubbed as above, without applying the
solution of ammonia, or of blacking unless the leather has become
reddish.
CARE OF HARNESS.
The estimated life of a set of artillery harness is seven years.
Harness, after being used, must be carefully wiped and cleaned; if
possible, this is done before taking it off the horse; otherwise it is
put in good order at the earliest practicable moment, and covered with
the sack. Straps and leather parts generally are kept soft and supple;
trace-chains and iron parts free from rust.
Collars and saddles will be aired and kept perfectly clean.
The greatest care must be exercised in keeping the collar where it
bears against the horse in perfect order.
Harness should be oiled two or three times a year if necessary.
The best oil for this use is neat's-foot oil, the unctuous property
of which is particularly suitable for preserving the suppleness of
the leather; this oil contains no siccative part, and may be used
unpurified. Four pints and a half will oil the harness of a team of
three pairs. To keep it from becoming rancid, use 1 part kerosene to 4
parts neat's-foot.
Before using the oil every part of the leather must be perfectly
cleaned and washed, without letting the water soak deeply into the
leather; while still damp blacken with dye those places which have
become red; when the leather begins to dry, oil it, spreading the oil
on with a sponge or thick, soft brush. When neat's-foot oil cannot be
had, pure fish-oil may be used, but it must be carefully ascertained
that it does not contain any siccative matter, which would make it
injurious.
Other oils may be usefully employed, as whale-oil, when they can be
gotten pure; this is not easily done, it being hard to detect the
frauds.
Vegetable oils are very hurtful.
As good oil cannot always be had, a mixture of three quarters of melted
lard and one quarter of whale-oil may be used in emergencies; it should
be spread over the leather with a piece of woollen cloth, and well
rubbed in.
Blacking for harness and dressings are given under "Mountain
Artillery," p. 61. The prepared harness-oil manufactured at Rock Island
Arsenal is packed in tins 4½ × 4½ × 8½ inches, each containing 6 pounds
of oil. Twenty-five tins are packed in a box.
Kerosene is good for cleaning rust from iron parts, and then use
sperm-oil.
To paint metal parts, use asphaltum paint. Before applying care should
be taken that every particle of rust is removed; then give two light
coats, allowing plenty of time for the first coat to dry. Colgate's
black harness soap and Frank Miller's harness soap No. 2½ are
excellent for keeping harness clean and soft with little trouble.
Frank Miller's harness soap and asphaltum paint can be obtained from
the Ordnance Department.
Recent orders from the War Department forbid the use of any dressings
other than those furnished by the Ordnance Department.
In the field there will not usually be much time or many materials
available for cleaning harness. Rust should be cleaned off ironwork
with sand, kerosene, etc., the ironwork being then oiled. Leather
should be kept soft and pliable by having a small quantity of soft
soap, if proper oil be not on hand, worked into it, mud and sweat being
first removed with as little water as possible.
The blanket must be kept clean, and folded to lie perfectly smooth on
the horse's back. Inspect the collar and see that its bearing surface
is free from dirt, dried hair, etc., before putting it on the horse,
and at every opportunity. The necessity for repairs will be reported
immediately, and the repairs will be made by the saddler at the
earliest practicable moment.
In garrison harness is wiped off after each drill, and is carefully
cleaned once a weak. A good driver should clean his harness thoroughly
in from 1 to 1½ hours, especially if provided with a trestle on which
to spread it out. First remove all dust and dirt with a damp cloth,
disconnecting all of the parts for that purpose. Then apply either soap
or dressing with a sponge, wetting the sponge with water when using the
soap.
=Harness-pegs.=--Harness-pegs for each pair are arranged in the
walls of the harness-room or in the heel-posts of the stalls. There
should be three pegs for each double set of harness, the upper one for
the pole-yoke, with the martingales attached, the bridles, and collars;
the next for the off harness, and the lower one for the near harness.
ARRANGEMENT OF HARNESS ON PEGS.
=On the Upper Peg.=--First, the pole-yoke, with the martingales
attached, next to the post or wall; then the bridle and collar of the
near horse; then the bridle and collar of the off horse, in the order
named.
=On the Middle Peg.=--The off harness; the traces, which are detached,
are hung over the peg close to the heel-post; the saddle, with its
attachments over the seat, is placed on the peg.
=On the Lower Peg.=--The leg-guard is slipped over this peg, and the
near harness is placed on it, as described above for the off harness.
Each hair-pad is placed on top of its saddle.
The saddle-cloths, being designed only for occasions of ceremony, are
kept wherever directed by the battery commander, and issued when it is
intended to use them.
TO HARNESS IN GARRISON, WHEEL.
=Collar.=--Each wheel-driver puts on and locks the collar of his off
horse.
=Pad.=--He puts on the hair-pad, and also the saddle-cloth if it is to
be used. If the saddle-blanket is used instead of the hair-pad, it will
be folded and put on as described.
=Saddle.=--He puts on the saddle, with its attachments, taking care not
to displace the pad or blanket, adjusts and secures the girth, buckles
the collar-strap to the saddle, and then adjusts the breeching and
buckles the crupper.
=Traces.=--He takes the traces from the peg, passes them through the
loin-loops, attaches the rear ends to the single-tree, which is hanging
on the cantle-hook, and then the front ends to the collar, beginning
with the off trace; the near trace will be laid on the saddle while
attaching the other.
=Bridle.=--He puts on the bridle and secures the coupling-rein to the
manger. He then passes the reins through the roller.
=Collar.=--Each wheel-driver begins to harness his near horse, as
prescribed for harnessing the off horse, at the command "_Collar_."
=Pad, etc.=--Same for the near horse as for the off horse, omitting the
directions for the coupling-rein and roller.
=Yoke.=--The wheel-driver puts on his leg-guard, and then, going
to the front of his horses, backs them out of the stall, places them
side by side, facing the exit, and beginning with the off horse
attaches the near yoke by means of the breast-straps, then passes the
martingales between the fore legs and through the standing loop on the
cincha, and attaches the hooks at the end of the side-straps to the
martingale D ring, and then stands to horse.
To back out his pair, the wheel-driver unfastens the coupling-rein,
then stands with his back to the manger, takes the reins of the near
horse in his right hand and those of the off horse in his left hand
near the bit, and backs the pair into the gangway.
In single stalls, separated by partitions, each horse must be backed
out by himself.
=Harness, Lead and Swing.=--The lead-and swing-drivers harness in the
same manner as wheel-drivers, with such omissions as are required
by the difference in the harness. The traces are passed through the
loin-strap loops, the front ends attached to the collars, and they are
then trussed by bringing the rear ends forward and passing the toggle
through the ring. The lead and swing pairs are not turned around nor
backed into the gangway after harnessing unless it is intended to lead
out.
TO UNHARNESS.
=Unyoke.=--Beginning with his near horse, each wheel-driver detaches
the hooks at the end of the side-straps from the martingale-ring and
draws the martingale from the standing loop on the cincha; he then
unhooks the inside end of each breast-strap, detaches the neck-yoke,
and hangs it up on its peg.
=Unbridle.=--He uncouples his horses, leads them into the stall,
secures the coupling-rein of the off horse to the manger, unbridles his
near horse, puts on the halter and ties the halter-strap to the manger,
hangs up the bridle, and takes off his leg-guard and places it on the
peg.
=Collar off.=--He unbuckles the collar-strap, detaches the front ends
of traces from the collar, removes the collar and hangs it on its peg.
=Traces off.=--He unhooks the traces from the single-tree, takes them
off and hangs them on their peg.
=Unsaddle.=--He unbuckles and frees the crupper, disengages the girth,
places the breeching and then the girth on the saddle, takes off the
saddle and places it on its peg with the saddle-pad on top.
=Unbridle.=--Each wheel-driver unfastens the coupling-rein, unbridles
his off horse, puts on the halter, ties its strap to the manger, and
hangs up the bridle.
=Collar off, etc.=--The off harness is taken off in the same order as
the near harness.
TO UNHARNESS IN THE FIELD.
=Without Harness-racks.=--The pole-prop is placed under the end of
the pole; the single-trees are left attached to the double-trees; the
wheel-traces are unhitched from the collars only, and laid over the
chest from front to rear, or on the foot-board; the collars of the
wheel-team on top of the limber-chest (paulins having been removed)
next to the rail on the near side, the swing-collars in the middle, and
the lead-collars next to the other rail; the collar of the off horse is
placed on top of that of the near horse of the same team; the remainder
of the harness is placed on the pole, that of the near wheel-horse next
to the double-tree and as close to it as possible, next that of the
off wheel-horse, both in the order laid down for the wheel-harness;
the traces of the lead-and swing-harness (folded once) are laid over
the pole; then on top of them the saddles, with the attachments over
them, so as not to rest on the ground. The neck-yoke is placed on the
foot-board.
=To Hook the Single-tree.=--Hold the single-tree with the eye down
and against the side of the cantle-hook; then push it sidewise far
enough so that the eye will pass over the cantle-hook; then let the
single-tree fall to the rear. This can be done from either side.
=To Fold the Saddle-blanket.=--The blanket, after being well shaken,
will be folded into six thicknesses, as follows: Hold it well up by
the two corners, the long way up and down; double it lengthwise (so
that the fold will come between the "U" and "S"), the folded corner
(middle of the blanket) in the left hand; take the folded corner
between the thumb and fore finger of the right hand, thumb pointing
to the left; slip the left hand down the folded edge two thirds its
length and seize it with the thumb and second finger; raise the hands
to the height of the shoulders, the blanket between them extended;
bring the hands together, the double fold falling outward; pass the
folded corner from the right hand into the left hand between the thumb
and fore finger; slip the second finger of the right hand between the
folds and seize the double folded corner; turn the left (disengaged)
corner in and seize it with the thumb and fore finger of the right
hand, the second finger of the right hand stretching and evening the
folds; after evening the folds grasp the corners in the hands and shake
the blanket well in order to smooth the folds; raise the blanket and
place it between the chin and the breast; slip the hands down half-way,
the first two fingers outside, the other fingers and thumb of each
hand inside; seize the blanket with the thumbs and first two fingers;
let the part under the chin fall forward; hold the blanket up, arms
extended, even the lower edges, seize the middle points between the
thumbs and fore fingers, and flirt the outside part over the right arm;
the blanket is thus held before placing it on the horse.
=To Put on the Blanket.=--Approach the horse on the near (left) side,
with the blanket folded and held as just prescribed; place it well
forward on his back, tossing the part of the blanket over the right
arm to the right side of the horse, still keeping hold of the middle
points; slide the blanket once or twice from front to rear to smooth
the hair, being careful to raise the blanket in bringing it forward;
place the fore finger of the left hand on the withers, and fore finger
of the right hand on the backbone, the blanket smooth; it will then be
well forward, with the edges on the left side; remove the locks of the
mane that may be under it.
=To Saddle.=--Place the pad or blanket on the horse as previously
explained; seize the pommel of the saddle with the left hand and the
cantle with the right; approach the horse on the near side from the
direction of the croup and _place the centre of the saddle on the
middle of the horse's back_ so it will fit close to it; let down
the cincha-strap and cincha; pass by the horse's head to the off
side, adjust the cincha and straps, and see that the pad or blanket
is smooth; return to the near side by the head, raise the pad or
blanket slightly under the pommel-arch so that the withers may not be
compressed; take the cincha-strap in the right hand, reach under the
horse and seize the cincha-ring with the left hand, pass the end of
the strap through the ring from underneath (from inside to outside),
then up and through the upper ring from the outside; if necessary, make
another fold in the same manner.
The strap is fastened as follows: Pass the end through the upper ring
to the front; seize it with the left hand; place the fingers of the
right between the outside folds of the strap; pull from the horse with
the right hand and take up the slack with the left; cross the strap
over the folds, pass the end of it, with the right hand, underneath and
through the upper ring back of the folds, then down and under the loop
that crosses the folds, and draw it tightly; weave the end into the
strands of the cincha-strap, between the rings.
Another method of fastening the cincha-strap is as follows: Pass the
end through the upper ring to the rear; seize it with the right hand;
place the fingers of the left between the outer folds of the strap;
pull from the horse with the left hand and take up the slack with the
right; pass the end of the strap underneath and draw it through the
upper ring until a loop is formed; double the loose end of the strap
and push it through the loop and draw the loop taut. The free end
should then be long enough to conveniently seize with the hand.
Having fastened the cincha-strap, let down the right stirrup, then the
left.
The surcingle is then buckled over the saddle and should be a little
looser than the cincha.
The cincha when first tied should admit a finger between it and the
belly. After exercising for a while the cincha will be found too loose
and should be tightened.
=To Put on the Curb-bridle.=--Take the reins in the right, the
crownpiece in the left, hand; approach the horse on the near side,
passing the right hand along the neck; slip the reins over his head
and let them rest on his neck; take the crownpiece in the right hand
and the lower left branch of the bit in the left hand, the fore finger
against the mouthpiece; bring the crownpiece in front of and slightly
below its proper position; insert the thumb of the left hand into the
side of the mouth above the tush; press open the lower jaw; insert
the bit by raising the crownpiece; with the left hand draw the ears
gently under the crownpiece, beginning with the left ear; arrange the
forelock; secure the throat-latch and then the curb-strap, taking care
not to set them too closely.
The mouthpiece, which should fit the width of the horse's mouth,
rests on that part of the bars directly opposite the chin-groove; the
curb-strap will then lie in the chin-groove, without any tendency to
mount up out of it on the sharp bones of the lower jaw. This position
of the mouthpiece will be attained for the majority of horses by
adjusting the cheek-straps so that the mouthpiece will be one inch
above the tushes of geldings and two inches above the corner teeth of
mares.
The throat-latch should admit four fingers between it and the throat;
this prevents any constriction of the windpipe or pressure on the large
blood-vessels.
The curb-strap or chain, which should be of width to fit the
chin-groove,--not over three fourths of an inch,--should fit smoothly
the chin-groove, and be loose enough to admit one or two fingers when
the branches of the bit are in line with the cheek-strap.
If the bridle be put on over the head-stall, the hitching-strap, if not
left at the manger or picket-line, will be tied around the neck. The
hitching-strap may also be arranged as follows: Loop it two or three
times through the ring so that the loop may be about 8 inches long;
wind the strap several times around the loops and draw the end tightly
through them.
FITTING HARNESS.
The bridle and saddle are fitted as prescribed.
=The Collar=, when adjusted, should admit the flat of the hand between
the lower part and the throat, and the fingers between the sides and
the neck. A short collar chokes a horse by pressing on the windpipe; a
narrow one pinches and rubs the neck. A broad collar works about and
galls the shoulders.
=The Back-strap=, when adjusted, should admit the breadth of the hand
between it and the horse's back.
=The Collar-strap= should not be tight; otherwise it would pull the
saddle forward on the withers. The surcingle, when used, should be
buckled on the near side of the near horse and on the off side of the
off horse, less tight than, and over, the girth.
=The Breech-strap= should be adjusted so that when the horse is pulling
there will be a space of about four inches between the breech-strap and
the horse's quarters.
=The Hip-strap= should be of such length that the breech-strap will
be a little below the point of the buttocks, or about 12 or 15 inches
below the top of the dock.
=The Loin-straps= should be adjusted so that the wheel-traces, when in
draught, will be straight and without downward pull on the loops that
support them.
The loin-straps of swing-and lead-horses should raise the traces about
six inches above the stifle-joint when in draught. In this position the
line of the traces from front to rear will be straight, and the loops
of the loin-straps will support the traces without drawing them up.
=The Side-straps= should be so adjusted that when the horse is sitting
back (stopping the carriage) no strain comes on the collar; the action
should be performed by the horse sitting back into the breeching
and thereby checking the momentum of the carriage by means of the
side-straps, martingale, and neck-yoke. This is the most important
adjustment of all.
=The Traces.=--The length of the traces must depend in a great measure
on the size of the horse and his stride. For the wheel-team the rule
is to allow about 14 inches from single-tree to hindquarters, and for
swing-and lead-teams one yard from nose to croup when in draught.
The traces should be adjusted so that the line of traction will be
unbroken from the single-tree to the collars of the leaders, and this
rule will regulate, in some measure, the length of the loin-straps, the
matching of the horses, and arrangement of the pairs as wheel, swing,
and lead pair; this should be such as to make the waste of force as
small as possible.
All front trace-chains are permanently fastened to the traces, and have
a toggle at the end.
All rear trace-chains have a ring at one end and a hook at the other;
the hook is passed through the D ring at the end of the trace, and
hooked back into any desired link. By this means the length of the
trace is adjusted, and the rear trace-chain need not be removed except
for cleaning.
CARE OF CARRIAGES.
In garrison carriages must be kept in the gun-sheds.
In the field they should be parked, if possible, on dry ground, furrows
being cut, if necessary, to prevent the accumulation of water around
them. They should be covered with the paulins.
Every carriage should be carefully examined each day after marching
into camp, and every defect and damage then noted and corrected as
soon as possible. Everything in the way of cleaning, adjustment, etc.,
should be looked to, so that the carriages may be ready as soon as
possible to turn out again in perfect order.
To keep wheels in good working order, they should be slightly greased
after each day's march, and any old grease which has worked out at
the shoulder of the axle scraped off. In garrison this is done each
drill-day by the cannoneers while the drivers are hitching up, first
wiping them off with cotton waste and then applying a little grease
or sperm-oil. When it is necessary to remove a wheel, it should never
be thrown upon the ground, nor the point of the axle allowed to rest
upon the latter. The elevating-gear should be kept cleaned and oiled,
and also the trunnion bearings, as far as may be without dismounting
the gun. Should the elevating-screw fail to work freely, it must be
examined, and if the threads are indented on the edges they must be
carefully filed down. In long marches a little grease should be placed
on each pintle-hook, so that the lunette may work freely on it.
=Grease for Carriage-wheels.=--Hog's lard softened, if fresh, by
working it. If this cannot be procured, tallow or other grease may be
used; if hard, it should be melted with fish-oil. About one pound of
grease is required for four wheels.
Those fittings of carriages upon which, on account of friction, etc.,
paint cannot be kept should be well oiled to prevent rusting; this is
also necessary with linch-pins, keys, etc., to keep them free from the
liability of jamming. Bright parts are kept in good order by applying
with a brush or cloth a mixture of 1 pound of white lead and ¼ pound
tallow or lard heated and mixed together. It is easily removed with a
cloth and a little turpentine.
Leather strapping must be kept soft and pliable. Cotton waste and Putz
pomade are supplied for keeping bright parts in good order.
Articles carried in the boxes require examination to see that they are
perfect.
Sponges which have been in use ought to be washed and dried as far as
possible, the covers not being put on until quite dry.
=Painting Carriages.=--Wooden parts, and the corresponding parts of
the steel carriage, are painted olive-color; the other parts black.
Whenever there is an appearance of rust under the paint of the steel
gun-carriage, it should not stand until the annual painting, but be
cleaned off at once and repainted.
Before painting a carriage it must be dry, thoroughly clean, and free
from grease. It will not be necessary to scrape off the old paint
where it is sound and firm, but all blisters, perished paint, and rust
on ironwork must be scraped off. Where the wood is bare of paint, it
should have three coats. This patching should be done before the final
coat is put on. One coat is sufficient for the annual painting.
To remove old paint, use a paste of soda and quicklime, equal parts,
made by dissolving soda in water and then adding lime. Apply with a
brush, and after a few minutes wash off with hot water. Wash with
vinegar or an acid solution before repainting to remove all traces of
the alkali.
Sponges, rammers, and handspikes are not painted.
In taking a battery in hand for repair it should first be stripped of
all the stores, the whole of the strapping and fixed leather taken off,
and the carriage thoroughly washed. All metalwork requiring repairs
should be attended to at once; also canvas and leatherwork. The paint
is supplied by the Ordnance Department.
CARE OF GUNS.
=Paint for Field-guns.=--This quantity will paint 25 guns. It comes
in tins marked No. 1 and No. 2, and is furnished by the Ordnance
Department.
FIRST COAT.
Venetian red 1½ pounds
Oxford yellow or French yellow ½ pound
Graphite 6 ounces
Liquid dryer 1 pint
Japan gold-size 1 "
Turpentine spirits 1 quart
To be well ground and strained before using.
SECOND COAT.
Venetian red 1½ pounds
Oxford yellow or French yellow ½ pound
Graphite 6 ounces
Sugar of lead 2 "
Liquid dryer ½ pint
Japan gold-size 1 "
Varnish (copal outside) 1 quart
Turpentine spirits ½ pint
To be well ground and strained before using. All grease must be
carefully removed from the gun before application.
The paint should be allowed at least 48 hours to harden after the first
coat before applying the second, and twice that long (96 hours) after
the second coat before handling.
Guns should ordinarily be painted once a year. It is injurious to the
mechanism to frequently dismount it, as the parts are dented by being
dropped, screw-threads injured, etc. They should at all times be kept
in good order and free from rust and dust, particular attention being
paid to the breech mechanism. Animal oil should not be used; fish-oil
and cosmoline are best. The use of lard-oil is injurious, and in cold
weather forms a stiff wax over all parts. Cotton waste and cosmoline
are supplied for this purpose by the Ordnance Department, and the
cosmoline should be freely used in the bore, breech, and on breech
mechanism. Bright parts are preserved by applying with a brush or cloth
a mixture of 1 pound white lead and ¼ pound tallow or lard-oil heated
and mixed together. It can easily be removed with a cloth and a little
turpentine.
=Machine-guns.=--Keep in dry storehouse, covered and well oiled with
a mixture of equal parts of sperm-oil and kerosene-oil. Every two or
three days they should be wiped off, a rag passed through the barrels,
and fresh oil applied. The use of emery cloth or scouring material must
be avoided.
THE CARE OF AMMUNITION.
Ammunition for field-pieces is put up in wooden boxes so painted as to
indicate their contents, viz.: for shell, _black_; for shrapnel, _red_;
for canister, _light drab_. The kind of ammunition is also marked on
the end of the box, and the place and date of manufacture on the inside
of the cover. Each box contains ten projectiles. Projectiles, except
bands and fuzes, are painted as follows:
=Shrapnel, with Point-charge.=--Body black; head vermilion.
=Shrapnel, with Base-charge.=--Body, from band to include 3/5 of head,
black; remainder of head and part of body in rear of band, vermilion.
=Canister.=--Wholly black.
=Shell= (Cast-iron).--Body, including ½ length of head, black;
remainder of head, next to point, vermilion.
The fuze-holes should be stopped with tow or cotton waste, and the
projectiles should be kept under cover in a dry place. Care should be
taken in handling projectiles to avoid injuring the bands. Projectiles
for field-guns are now issued, charged and fuzed for service, from the
arsenals.
Shells of field-mortars should not be kept charged. This is done as
occasion requires when firing, and the greatest care must be taken
before inserting the fuze that the threads of both fuze and fuze-hole
are perfectly free from dust, grit, and powder; and when assembled the
fuze must be screwed tight home.
=Powder.=--When made cartridges are not supplied, the powder is
in wooden barrels, or in barrels of corrugated metal with bronze
screw-caps, each containing 100 pounds. On the heads are stencilled
the number of the barrel, the name of the manufacturer, year of
fabrication, kind of powder, the mean initial velocity and pressure per
square inch on the pressure-piston. Each time the powder is proved the
initial velocity is marked below the former proof-marks, and the date
of trial opposite it.
Barrels of different kinds of powder are piled separately, and, besides
being recorded in the magazine-book, each parcel is marked with a card
showing the kind and the entries and issues.
In the magazine the barrels are placed on their sides, generally three
tiers high, or four tiers if absolutely necessary. Small skids are
placed on the floor and between the several tiers, and the barrels
chocked at intervals to prevent rolling. The tiers must be so arranged
that the marks can readily be seen and any particular kind reached.
There should be an unobstructed space of several yards square at the
door, and this space, as likewise the alleys, should be covered with
carpet or matting. The magazine is provided with a well near the door;
into this the sweepings are put; they should never be swept out at the
door.
For the preservation of the magazine it is of the greatest importance
to keep unobstructed the circulation of air under as well as above the
flooring. The magazine should be opened and aired only in dry, clear
weather, when the temperature of the air outside is lower than that
inside of the magazine.
It should not be opened in damp weather if it can be avoided. The
ventilators must be kept free, and no shrubbery or trees allowed to
grow near so as to screen the building from the sun. The yard should
be of sand or clay and well drained. The moisture of a magazine may be
absorbed by chloride of lime kept in an open vessel and renewed from
time to time. Quicklime is dangerous, and should not be used. Candles
in lanterns are used for lighting the magazine. No one should enter
without first removing his shoes or putting india-rubbers over them. No
cane, sword, or anything which might occasion sparks must be carried
in.
Barrels of powder must not be rolled in transportation; they should be
carried in handbarrows, or in slings made of rope, canvas, or leather.
All implements used in the magazine or on the barrels should be of
copper or wood. The barrels must never be repaired in the magazine.
When it is necessary to roll them for the better preservation of the
powder and to prevent its caking, it is done with a small number at a
time on boards in the yard.
Neither loaded shells, fireworks, nor composition for fireworks, fuzes,
nor friction-primers, etc., will be stored in a magazine with powder.
Shells should be filled in the filling-room of the service-magazine.
=Transportation of Powder.=--In wagons. The barrels of powder must be
packed in straw, secured in such a manner as not to rub against each
other, and the load closely covered with canvas. Sufficient guard
should accompany the train to prevent all fire or smoking near the
wagons. No camp-fires should be allowed near the park. On railroads
each barrel should be tightly boxed and packed so as to avoid friction;
the cars, if practicable, should have springs similar to those of
passenger-cars.
=Fuzes and Friction-primers= are kept as far as possible in their
original packages, and are stored in the driest and safest place in the
storehouse.
=Filling Cartridge-bags.=--The powder is carried in barrels from
the magazine to the filling-room. _Under no circumstances will the
filling be done at the magazine._ Handle powder carefully. Implements
required: 1 copper hammer, 1 wooden drift, 1 counter-brush, 1 scoop, 1
counter-scale and weights (brass or copper), 1 filling-funnel, 1 set
of powder-measures, cartridge-bags and twine. When the cartridges are
to be used with projectiles, each charge is carefully weighed; if for
blank cartridges, it is measured.
One man holds the bag open and another pours the powder into it through
a funnel. The bag is then securely tied with twine close to the
powder. When filled, each should be marked in pencil, showing kind and
weight of powder, and for what piece to be used.
=Filling Projectiles.=--The bursting-charge should be weighed and
carefully placed in shell through copper funnel, the nose of which
should pass below the end of the screw-thread. Then carefully wipe the
thread of both fuze and fuze-hole before inserting the fuze.
GUARD ORDERS.
=Battery-guards.=--A light battery serving with other troops will
furnish its own park and stable guards, police, etc. Both officers and
men will be exempt from other details, and the men will not be detailed
for extra duty in the staff departments, nor for duty interfering with
battery duties, if it can be avoided.
A light battery serving with other troops will furnish its own stable
and park guard, which will be under the exclusive control of the
battery commander.
=Battery Stable and Park Guard.=--The pieces, caissons, etc., with
their ammunition and stores, as well as the horses, harness, and forage
are under the charge of a stable and park guard, consisting of two
non-commissioned officers and as many privates as may be necessary.
This guard will be mounted separately for each battery, and will be
under the exclusive control of the battery commander.
A lieutenant of the battery is detailed daily, or for such period as
the battery commander may direct, as battery officer of the day; the
stable and park guard is under his immediate orders and those of the
battery commander.
It is the duty of this guard to enforce the special regulations in
regard to the stables, horses, and park.
The tour continues for 24 hours, or until properly relieved by a new
guard.
The sentinels of the stable and park guard will be posted and relieved
as prescribed in "Light-artillery Drill Regulations." They wear the
sabre-belt without sabre when on post at the stable or picket-line.
They are forbidden to strike or otherwise punish horses.
(Between retreat and reveille the sentinels should be armed with loaded
revolvers.)
The sentinels over the horses or in charge of prisoners receive orders
from the stable sergeant, so far as the exercise of his duties are
concerned.
The guard, non-commissioned officers and sentinels, will perform
their duties in accordance with the rules prescribed for the troop
stable-guard.
The employment of stable-guards for police and fatigue duties at the
stables is forbidden; but this will not prohibit the stable-guard from
being required to assist in feeding grain before reveille. (It may be
used as a herd-guard during the day.)
The stable-guard will attend stables with the rest of the battery and
groom their own horses, the sentinels being relieved for the purpose.
They will wear stable frocks while grooming, belt outside the frock;
after grooming they take off their stable frocks, and the sentinel is
again posted.
Neither the non-commissioned officer nor the members of the
stable-guard will absent themselves from the immediate vicinity of the
stables, except in case of urgent necessity and then for no longer time
than is absolutely necessary. No member of the guard will leave for any
purpose without the authority of the non-commissioned officer of the
guard.
The non-commissioned officer and one member of the guard will go for
meals at the proper hour; upon their return the other members will
be directed to go by the non-commissioned officer. (With park and
stable guard the guard will be so sent to meals as to leave at the
guard-house one non-commissioned officer and one private, exclusive of
sentinels on post.)
Smoking in stables or their immediate vicinity is prohibited. No fire
or light other than the stable lanterns will be permitted in the
stables.
Stable-guard duty in the field will be performed upon the same
principles, with the modifications rendered necessary by the changed
conditions.
=Duties of the Battery Officer of the Day.=--He has supervision of the
guard, attends all stable duties and such drills and battery roll-calls
as may be designated as requiring his presence.
He should inspect the guard and sentinels during the day and night as
often as he may deem necessary.
After the new battery officer has visited the guard at guard-mounting
and seen that the orders have been correctly turned over, he will
report to the battery commander for instructions.
=Commander of the Guard.=--The senior non-commissioned officer of the
guard is commander of the guard.
The commander of the guard is responsible for the instruction and
discipline of the guard. He will see that all its members are correctly
instructed in their orders and duties, and that they understand and
properly perform them.
He receives and obeys the orders of the battery commander and the
battery officer of the day, and reports to the last named without delay
all orders relating to the guard not given or transmitted by him. He
transmits to his successor all material instructions and information
relating to his duties.
He is responsible for the general safety of the camp as soon as the old
guard marches from the guard-house. In case of any emergency occurring
while both guards are at the guard-house, the senior commander of the
two guards will be responsible that proper action is taken.
A commander of a guard leaving his post for any purpose will mention
his destination and the probable duration of his absence to the next in
command.
Should it become necessary during the absence of the commander of the
guard for the next in command to leave the guard, he will designate a
member of the guard to take charge and assume the responsibility during
his absence. The member so designated will be obeyed and respected
accordingly, and will be held responsible for the proper performance of
his duties.
All prisoners will be thoroughly searched before being allowed to enter
the guard-house.
The prisoners will be marched under proper guard to the mess-hall for
their meals; they must be sent to their meals at times when the other
men of the battery are not present, and will be allowed the same time
as other members of the guard.
The commander of the guard will record upon the guard report the names
of all horses taken out during his tour (except under paragraphs _a_
and _c_, p. 185), stating the authority under which they are taken and
their condition when returned.
Should officers' horses be returned by an enlisted man, he will inspect
them as prescribed.
Except in emergencies, the commander of the guard may divide the night
with the next in command, but retains his responsibility; the one whose
watch it is must be constantly on the alert.
The non-commissioned officer receives his orders from his battery
commander and battery officer of the day, and when relieved will turn
over all his orders to his successor.
He instructs his sentinels in their general and special duties;
exercises general supervision over his entire guard; exacts order
and cleanliness about the guard-room; prevents the introduction of
intoxicants into the guard-house or stables; receives by count, from
his predecessor, the animals, horse equipments, and all property (both
private and public) pertaining thereto; examines, before relieving his
predecessor, all locks, windows, and doors, and should any be found
insecure he will report the fact to the battery officer of the day. He,
or the junior non-commissioned officer of the guard, will personally
post and relieve each sentinel, taking care to verify the property
responsibility of the sentinel who comes off post, and see that the
sentinel who goes on post is aware of the property responsibility he
assumes. During the day and night the non-commissioned officers will
alternate in tours, one of them remaining constantly on the alert.
That the non-commissioned officer may be more thoroughly informed of
his responsibility, _all_ horses returning, except those from a regular
formation, will be reported to and inspected by him. He will then
notify the sentinel on post, and see that the horses are promptly cared
for. In case of abuse he will promptly report to the battery officer
of the day. Should the horse be the private property of an officer, he
will report such abuse to the owner.
The non-commissioned officer will report any unusual occurrence during
his tour to the battery officer of the day.
Horses and other property for which the non-commissioned officer is
responsible will not be taken from the stables without the order of the
battery commander, with the following exceptions:
_a._ Officers' horses and private property are subject to their own
written order.
_b._ Horses authorized for mounted duty or pass may be taken out on a
written order of the battery commander.
_c._ No formal order will be required for horses and equipments to
leave the stable at established hours for ceremonies, mounted drill,
herding and watering horses. The commander of the guard must be present
and satisfy himself that they are being taken out solely for these
purposes.
_d._ The horses and equipments of the first sergeant and stable
sergeant (unless otherwise ordered by the battery commander) may be
taken out by themselves, or on their written order, between reveille
and retreat. This privilege may be extended to the other sergeants.
_e._ The battery team will be allowed to leave the stables in the
daytime (between reveille and retreat) when the wagoner reports it to
be necessary.
In case of fire at the stable the commander of the guard will take the
necessary precautions in opening or closing the doors, so as to prevent
as far as possible the spreading of the fire and make it possible to
remove the horses. He will then, assisted by all the available men,
commence to lead out the horses, and, if practicable, secure them at
the picket-line or other designated place.
The non-commissioned officer will have exclusive control of the
lanterns, and will see that they are prepared during the day for
lighting at night.
The lanterns will not be lighted, filled, or trimmed in the stables,
but must be taken to the guard-room, or to such other place as may be
designated by the battery commander for the purpose.
The non-commissioned officer must answer the sentinels' calls promptly.
=Sentinel of Stable-guard.=--The sentinel in the discharge of his
duties will be governed by the regulations for sentinels of other
guards whenever they are applicable, such as courtesies to officers,
walking post in a soldierly manner, challenging, etc.; he will not turn
out the guard except when ordered by the proper authority.
The sentinel will receive orders from the battery commander, the
battery officer of the day, and the non-commissioned officers of the
stable-guard only.
The sentinel will not permit any horse or equipments to be taken from
the stables except in the presence of the non-commissioned officer.
Should a horse get loose, the sentinel will catch him and tie him up.
If he be unable to catch the horse, the non-commissioned officer will
be at once notified. In case a horse be cast, or in any way entangled,
he will relieve him if possible; if unable to relieve him, he will call
the non-commissioned officer. Sentinels are forbidden to punish or
maltreat a horse.
When a horse is taken sick, the sentinel will notify the
non-commissioned officer, who will in turn call the stable sergeant,
and see that the horse is properly attended to.
In case of fire the sentinel will give the alarm by stepping outside
the stable and firing his pistol (if he be armed) repeatedly, calling
out at the same time, "_Fire, stables, battery--!_"
As soon as the guard is alarmed he will take the necessary precautions
in opening or closing the doors, so as to prevent the spreading of the
fire and make it possible to remove the horses; he will drop the chains
and bars, and, with the other members of the guard, proceed to lead out
the horses, and secure them at the picket-line or such other place as
may have been previously designated.