[Baguio]
Baguio, which is often called the Simla of the Philippines, is classed
with even more famous mountain resorts by its admirers. By automobile
it is about eight hours' ride from Manila. By train and passenger
trucks combined, it is about eleven hours.
The Benguet road is the most traveled route. It leaves the lowlands
at Dagupan and now ascends, now crosses and recrosses the gorge of
the Bued River, coiling back on itself in the famous Zig-zag, where
the inspirations of Baguio's natural wonders begin. Cooler and cooler
grows the air, behind drops all the lowland vegetation, to make room
for sturdy trees of the temperate zone. Wave on wave the trees roll
up the mountains that stand on each other's shoulders below, around
and above the small tableland on which Baguio edges away from the
sheer precipice at the head of the gorge.
For some years a summer capital to which the Government transferred
its work and personnel during the hot months, it is a chartered city,
but the all-year residents are few, though many of the well-to-do of
Manila have summer homes there. It has two hotels and several cottages
for visitors.
No one may know the Philippines adequately without visiting this, the
temperate beauty spot of the Archipelago. Pure forest-scented air,
cooled by lofty peaks and a city that is well laid out representing
what is best in the Islands' civic progress are the outstanding
"strands in the fabric of Baguio's attractions." Here is a fairyland
of green--gardens, beautiful walks, and easily accessible peaks
commanding exquisite vistas of valleys and neighboring mountain tops.
[Camp John Hay]
Camp John Hay, the military hospital post, is the main show place,
among its beauties being the open air amphitheater that General Bell
built with mountaineer labor, terraced as their wonderful rice terraces
are, and gay with flowers.
Other places to see are the Mansion House, the official summer
residence of the Governor-General; Bishop Brent's School for American
children and the School for mountain girls; the Constabulary School;
the rest houses of the different religious Orders; Mirador, the
Observatory, and Mt. Santo Tomas, whence a glorious view may be had
over the whole majestic panorama of mountains and valleys to the
lowlands and to the China Sea. On horseback or afoot, in Baguio and
its immediate environs, just enjoying the air, the roses, the pungent
pines, the tree ferns, the fields of Benguet lilies, every day is a
delight. But beyond lie more regions that beckon.
[Trinidad Valley]
The strawberries and green peas at Trinidad, where are the Government
stock farm and agricultural school, extend an occidental welcome to the
visitors. On the mountain train to Bontoc the rest houses with their
big open fire places are just like homes in the temperate zone. The
great orerich valley of Amburayan lies on one side of the divide;
on the other is the Lepanto basin with Cervantes in the cap of the
hills. Sagada and Lubuagan are easy of access by side roads and trails,
but to reach Tawang and Balbalan means difficult and proportionally
interesting and exhilarating going through magnificent forests of
cedar, from one rancheria to another. At Banaue are rice terraces
nearly a mile in height. Generation after generation has toiled to
build them. The mission stations with their schools where the young
folks are taught modern trades and perfected in their own handicrafts
are heart-warming evidences alike of Christian love and charity and
self-sacrifice and grateful appreciation of the mountain peoples and
their eagerness to join their brethren of the lowlands in the full
light of civilization.
Descending on horseback in a westward direction one comes to Butac,
and a telephone message will bring an auto to whisk one on the Tagudin,
the sea outlet of the Mountain Province, that has a Belgian convent
noted for its laces and embroideries. The train or an auto will
convey the traveler thence north to the extreme end of Luzon and
back down the coast of Manila. The great North Road, that follows
the sea most of the way, is a scenic route for its entire length,
and along or near it are interesting old towns to visit, such as
Laoag, San Fernando, which offer delightful sea bathing, Vigan,
Paoay, San Vicente, and Bangui, where the Ilocano weavers, carvers,
and potters can be watched at their fascinating tasks.