CHAPTER XXVIII

THE GEOGRAPHY OF THE NILE BASIN

Early in the geological history of the globe there appear to have been

rock-foldings, wrinkles in the earth’s surface in the eastern half of

Africa. Sometimes this puckering of the solid crust manifested itself

simply in longitudinal strips of raised plateaux of which Abyssinia

and the highlands east of the Victoria Nyanza, north and west of

Nyasaland, are remains. A sharper wrinkle than others produced the

remarkable snowy range of Ruwenzori, perhaps the greatest altitude of

the African continent. These lofty plateaux and mountain ranges from

Abyssinia on the north to Nyasaland on the south have no doubt in all

times attracted an unusually heavy rainfall from the moisture-laden

clouds which are blown inland off the Indian Ocean. The rainfall on the

Livingstone Mountains and the Nyasa-Tanganyika Plateau drains south

and east to the Indian Ocean and west to the basin of the Congo; or

into Tanganyika, which is likewise connected with the Congo at the

present day.[119] North of the Tanganyika system, however,--that is to

say, approximately north of the third degree of south latitude,--the

rainfall flows either towards the Mediterranean down the valley of

the Nile, or else in a north-northeasterly direction into a string

of isolated lakes which apparently at one time communicated with the

Gulf of Aden at the mouth of the Red Sea. Supervening on the original

wrinkling of the true backbone of Africa (i.e. the elevated ridge

which extends from the Nubian Alps to the Cape of Good Hope or at any

rate to the Zambezi) came a series of profound volcanic disturbances,

elevating, depressing, cracking, and rending the eastern side of

this ancient continent. As a rule this volcanic action seems to

have proceeded along nearly parallel curved lines, running from the

latitudes of the Zambezi River in a north-northeasterly direction. The

first and widest of these faults due to volcanic action was seemingly

the sinking of the ground between Madagascar and East Africa. A nearly

parallel but much narrower rift valley was also formed up the trough of

Lake Nyasa, northwards[120] to the celebrated rift valley which lies

to the east of the Victoria Nyanza, and contains innumerable lakes,

large and small, salt and fresh. This valley, with some interruptions,

extends north and northeast till it reaches the shores of the Gulf

of Aden.[121] Westward again of this East African rift (which some

geologists believe to have been continued with a northwesterly

inflection up the Red Sea to the valley of the Jordan) is another less

clearly-defined fault, which may have produced the valleys of the

Kafue and of the Luapula, and was then continued northwards through

Tanganyika to the Albert Nyanza and the valley of the Nile. Various

upheavals and modifications broke up the continuity of this western

rift valley. The drainage of the Kafue was deflected to the Indian

Ocean; that of the Luapula and its lakes and of Tanganyika to the Congo

basin. North of Lake Kivu,[122] however, the drainage flowed northward

into a vast fresh-water inland sea, which, for want of a better name,

we may call the Lake of Fashoda. A parallel to this great circular,

shallow sheet of water existed not very anciently in the northern

basin of the Congo, and another is to be seen at the present day in

the Victoria Nyanza. This last is the largest existing lake in Africa.

So far as is known it is shallow compared to such deep troughs as

Tanganyika and Nyasa, and is possibly not a very ancient sheet of water

as geological age may be reckoned.

[Illustration: NAPOLEON GULF, LOOKING SOUTH, NEAR THE OUTLET OF THE

RIPON FALLS.

[Note the isolated rocks, the remains of a former barrier and fall.]]

The Victoria Nyanza is in origin little but the widened course of the

river Kagera, which flowed along a curved depression to the eastward

of the Ruwenzori, Ankole, Mpororo, and Mfumbiro highlands. The Kagera,

in fact, at the present day may be regarded as the extreme source of

the Nile. It rises approximately under the fourth degree of south

latitude, only a few miles from the mountainous shores of northeast

Tanganyika. Many streams descending[123] from these Burundi mountains

unite to form the Kagera, which, after a zigzag northerly course

studded with not a few small lakes, turns, under the first degree of

south latitude, abruptly to the east (with one dip to the south) and

enters the Victoria Nyanza a little to the north of the first degree

of south latitude. The original course of the stream evidently lay

between the Sese Islands (the remains of high mountains) and the coasts

of Buddu and Uganda, and then through the Rosebery Channel into the

Napoleon Gulf, from which, over the Ripon Falls, it issues as the

acknowledged Nile. Apart from the Kagera the great Victoria Nyanza

receives few rivers of size or important volume. The only others worthy

to be mentioned are the Nzoia on the northeast, the Nyando and its

affluents, which form Kavirondo Bay, and four largish rivers which

enter the east coast of the lake. If the bed of the Victoria Nyanza

could be raised by some earth movement about two hundred and fifty

feet, it would be traversed by a converging network of river channels

uniting with the Kagera and the main stream of the Nile in what is at

present called Napoleon Gulf; and the geographical appearance of this

dried-up lake would be very similar to the present aspect on the map of

the many branches and affluents of the Nile and its tributaries which

converge (south of Fashoda) at the junction of the Sobat. The surface

area of the Victoria Nyanza may at one time have been considerably

greater than it is at the present day, and have covered a good deal of

the country of Unyamwezi. Perhaps at one time it had no outlet. The

highlands forming the eastern spine of the continent and stretching

along the eastern cliffs of the rift valley from Abyssinia to North

Nyasa prevented its overflowing towards the Indian Ocean; while the

Nyasa-Tanganyika Plateau and the mountains bordering the Tanganyika

rift valley opposed any western escapement. Therefore the great inland

sea created by the drainage of Unyamwezi, of the Kagera, and the rivers

from the Nandi plateau was forced up against the ridge of highish land

(4,000 feet), forming the existing countries of Uganda, Busoga, and

Kavirondo. Attacking this ridge at its narrowest diameter, the pent-up

waters of the Victoria Nyanza slowly carved their way northwards down

the gorge now occupied by the Nile at the Ripon Falls. Nearly all the

drainage of the Uganda-Busoga Plateau runs northward, and does not

fall into the Victoria Nyanza. The tilt of this plateau is highest

round the northern shores of the Victoria Nyanza (four to five thousand

feet), and falls gradually till it reaches the somewhat low level (two

thousand feet) of the Upper Nile valley. The escaping waters of the

Victoria Nyanza formed another great lake (Kioga-Kwania) immediately

to the north on the other side of the Uganda ridge. This lake again

drained off eventually to the original (Albertine) Nile. The site of

its former bed is covered at the present day with vast marshes and with

the straggling, many-armed lake of Kioga-Kwania.

[Illustration: THE BIRTH OF THE VICTORIA NILE, AT THE RIPON FALLS.]

The Albertine Nile, which some geographers think was the original main

stream of the river, rises under the name of Ruchuru on the northern

slopes of that great volcanic mass called the Mfumbiro mountains. These

mountains have arisen in recent times in the middle of a rift valley

which, seemingly, included Lake Kivu. The same fault may also contain

the basin of Tanganyika, but this lies at a much lower level than Kivu.

From Kivu (which no doubt once drained towards the Nile before the

volcanic dam arose on the north) there would have been a gentle slope

downward and northward (only partially stemmed by the extraordinary

peninsula of Ruwenzori) to the basin of the Albert Nyanza.

The Ruchuru enters Lake Albert Edward,--creates that lake, in

fact,--and the Albert Edward Nyanza has a northern gulf or

tributary lake known as Dweru, which receives much of the drainage

of Ruwenzori, and transmits the melted snows of this Central African

Caucasus to the basin of the Albert Edward. From the north end of

Albert Edward the Albertine Nile issues again under the conventional

name of the Semliki. The Semliki flows round the abrupt western

slopes of Ruwenzori into Lake Albert Nyanza, from the northern end of

which important basin (which lies at an altitude of 2,100 feet above

the sea), the Mountain Nile, formed by the great twin lakes, whose

existence was remotely known to the ancients, starts on its career.

[Illustration: ON LAKE ALBERT EDWARD (NORTH-WEST COAST).]

The Victoria Nile enters the north end of Lake Albert, and its waters

leave that lake almost uninfluenced by their volume; in fact, Lake

Albert has almost become a river, the Albertine Nile, when the water

coming from the Victoria Nyanza enters the river-like end of the Albert

at Magungo and then abruptly turns with full stream to the north. The

Mountain Nile,[124] after leaving Lake Albert, maintains a broad,

lake-like character until it enters the narrow rift valley north of

Nimule in the Madi country. Along this winding gorge, which exhibits

some of the finest scenery of Africa, the Nile flows over nearly a

hundred miles of cataracts and descends in all about five hundred feet.

At Lado (in about 5° north latitude), where it slackens and expands,

the altitude of the White or Mountain Nile is about fifteen hundred

feet above sea-level. At the beginning of this cataract region, north

of Nimule, the Nile receives a lengthy affluent from the southeast.

This is the river Asua, which drains the very mountainous but slightly

arid country west of the Rudolf watershed, and north of Mount Elgon.

The Asua attracted a great deal of attention in the early days of Nile

exploration, owing to Speke having thought that it was an additional

outlet of the Victoria Nyanza, flowing from (what is now called)

Kavirondo Bay.

North of Lado the Nile enters an exceedingly marshy region, which is

perhaps three hundred miles from north to south and two hundred miles

from east to west. This area once certainly was the site of a lake at

one time as large or larger than the Victoria Nyanza. This lake was

mostly fed from the west by seven or eight important streams, which

to-day, with their many tributaries, unite to form that broad western

branch of the Nile known as the Bahr-al-Ghazal.[125]

The Bahr-al-Ghazal is little else than a great estuary which receives

contributions from many big rivers. If, however, one of these is to

be selected as the main stream on account of general consistency of

direction, then the Bahr-al-Arab would be the upper waters of the

Gazelle. The furthest perennial source of this river is in the country

of Dar Fertit, on the verge of the northernmost limits of the Congo

basin, and within a few days’ journey of the Upper Shari. Other very

doubtful tributaries of the Bahr-al-Arab drain off what little water is

not evaporated in the somewhat arid country of Darfur. The Bahr-al-Arab

is fed by at least four important rivers, which flow northward from the

Congo water-parting in the Nyam-nyam countries.

If volume of water is to be considered, then probably the main stream

of the Bahr-al-Ghazal is the Jur or Dyur, which, in its upper waters,

is known as the Sue or Swe. The Sue-Jur rises in about 4° north

latitude, not many days’ journey to the east of Mbomu. (The Mbomu is

an important tributary of the Welle-Ubangi, which again is one of the

principal tributaries of the Congo.) There is nearly continuous steam

navigation up the Welle-Ubangi and the Mbomu to within a few days’

journey of the Nile basin. It was up this stream (from the Congo) that

Marchand and his intrepid companions travelled in 1897. From the waters

of the Mbomu they carried their little steam-launch overland to the

Upper Sue. They were then able to descend this river for hundreds of

miles to the Bahr-al-Ghazal and the main Nile. Near Mashra-ar-Rak, at

the commencement of what the Sudanese style the Bahr-al-Ghazal, the

Jur is joined by another important stream called, in its lower course,

the Tonj, which has many tributaries coming from the vicinity of the

Welle. Nearly parallel with this river to the east are the Roa and the

Rōl (or Yalo), both of which enter the Bahr-al-Ghazal not far from its

confluence with the main Nile. There is also a river Yei or Ayi, the

direction of which is not fully determined. This river, which flows

nearly parallel with the main Nile, some sixty miles to the west of

Lado, either enters the Rōl and thus the Bahr-al-Ghazal, or turns into

the main Nile not far from the bifurcation of the Bahr-az-Ziraf.

The Bahr-az-Ziraf is an eastern branch of the main Nile, which leaves

the parental river near Bor (about latitude 6° 40′ north) and flows

very tortuously northwards, rejoining the White Nile about sixty miles

east of Lake No (Bahr-al-Ghazal). The Ziraf or Giraffe River has other

communicating channels with the main Nile, and also throws off sluggish

contributions to the Khor Felus,--a western tributary of the Lower

Sobat. The Giraffe River (so named by the Arabs for the many giraffes

once sighted from its banks) receives from the south an important

stream known (perhaps incorrectly) as the Oguelokur, which, through

its component rivers the Tu and Kos, drains the northern slopes of the

Lotuka Mountains.

The lower part of the Bahr-al-Ghazal is often lost in marshes or is

widened into lake-like expanses such as Lake No, at the confluence of

the White Nile. About a hundred miles to the east of this confluence

with the Kir or main White Nile (also called, south of this point,

the Bahr-al-Jabl or Mountain Nile), there enters a very important

affluent from the east, the Sobat (Baro), which is formed by a number

of streams flowing from the southwestern part of the Abyssinian Empire

and the vicinity of the Lake Rudolf basin.[126] After its confluence

with the Sobat the White Nile flows without any important tributary for

something like three hundred and fifty miles nearly due north through

a country which passes from a tropical luxuriance of vegetation to

the acacias and thin grass of the steppe region. The influence of the

Sahara Desert, in fact, begins to make itself felt,--that desert which

extends right across from the Atlantic to the Persian Gulf, interrupted

only by the exceptional mountain regions of Tibesti, Darfur, Abyssinia,

Yaman, and Jabl Akhdar.

At Khartum, in about 15° 40′ north latitude, the Nile receives its most

important affluent, the Abai or Blue Nile (Bahr-al-Azrak). This river

rises on Sagada Mountain in the Abyssinian province of Gojam, passes

through the south end of Lake Tsana (a piece of water about the area of

Gloucestershire) in the western part of Central Abyssinia, and, after

curving to the east and south, turns west and north, and brings to the

Nile (it is said) that great increase of volume in the summer time

which causes the annual flooding of Lower Egypt.

Lengthy as is the course of the White Nile from the Victoria and Albert

Nyanzas to Khartum, and infinitely greater though the mass of its

waters should be than the volume of the Blue Nile, the stream of the

White River has nevertheless been much attenuated before it reaches

Khartum by the waste of its volume in the region of vast swamps lying

between Fashoda on the north and Lado on the south, to say nothing

also of a similar waste and evaporation of water from the deflection

of the Victoria Nile into the backwaters and swamps of Kioga and

Kwania. Another contribution--though a much feebler one in volume of

water--comes from Abyssinia in the shape of the Atbara, which, in its

upper waters, is known as the Takaze.[127] This river, during the

dry season, almost ceases to flow in its lower portion, though it is

flooded during the summer months from the melting of the snows and the

heavy tropical rains on the northern Abyssinian mountains. The Atbara

is considered by Sir Samuel Baker to contribute the principal share of

the black mud which fertilises Egypt.

After the confluence of the Atbara the Nile receives no other tributary

of running water during the whole remainder of its course, though

in former times of far greater rainfall it was joined by streams of

considerable volume flowing northeast from Kordofan. The Nile at

Ambukol seems to fall into another rift valley or series of faults,

along which, and over deserts of sandstone, granite, and limestone, it

pursues its way to the southeastern angle of the Mediterranean Sea. The

great river divides in the extreme lower part of its course into two

main branches, through which, and a number of other smaller streams and

artificial canals, it pours into the sea the attenuated volume of water

derived from the rainfall of Eastern Equatorial Africa, much having

been already spent in useless swamps, or evaporated as it passed over a

thousand miles of desert, or diverted by man to fertilise Lower Egypt.

An interesting feature of the Nile basin, and one which was known more

or less vaguely to the ancient Egyptians and to the Sabæan Arabs of

two thousand years ago,[128] is the existence of snow-mountains at the

head-waters of the two principal rivers of the Nile system,--the White

and the Blue Niles. Ruwenzori[129] was probably known to the ancients

as the Mountains of the Moon. It is a mass of mainly Archæan rock some

eighty miles long, which runs from northeast to southwest between Lake

Albert and Lake Albert Edward. This marvellous range of snow-peaks and

glaciers--a glittering panorama nearly thirty miles in length--exhibits

a greater display of snow and ice (and that exactly under the equator)

than can be seen anywhere else in the African continent, and is of far

more imposing appearance than the isolated snow-capped summits of

Kenya and Kilimanjaro (extinct volcanoes). The entire drainage of the

Ruwenzori snows falls into the Albertine Nile, that is to say, into

Lake Edward, or the river Semliki, which connects that lake with Albert

Nyanza. The other heights crowned with perpetual snow in the basin of

the Nile are the high peaks of the Samien or Simen range in northern

Abyssinia, and one at least,[130] of the south Ethiopian (Kaffa)

highlands. Two of the Samien peaks rise to a little over fifteen

thousand feet in altitude and one (Buahit) to sixteen thousand feet.

They are part of a nearly circular rim of great heights which surround

Lake Tsana. To the south of Lake Tsana the mountains rise to heights

of eleven, twelve, and fourteen thousand feet, but have no permanent

snow. On the limits of the Nile basin, near the northeast corner of the

Victoria Nyanza, stands Mount Elgon, a mighty extinct volcano,--perhaps

the largest extinct volcano in the world. The crater rim of Elgon rises

in places to over fourteen thousand feet in altitude, but no snow

remains there permanently. Elsewhere than the Nile basin it is probable

that permanent snow and ice are only to be found on the adjacent

extinct volcanoes of Kenya and Kilimanjaro, and on the highest peaks of

the Atlas range far away in the west of Morocco.[131]

The lower valley of the Nile, the country which we know as Egypt, has

undergone fluctuations of level since the beginning of the Tertiary

Epoch. In the secondary ages the last five hundred miles of the Nile

valley lay for a period of immense duration under the waters of the

ocean, where the limestone deposits were formed. In Eocene times this

limestone bed was slowly raised to the altitude of a tableland above

the Mediterranean, but always cut off from the direction of the Red Sea

by the continuous range of mountains which we know as the Nubian Alps.

It is possible that the drainage of the Central African rift valleys

and lakes and snow-mountains may, by the uprising of this tableland,

have been severed from its natural escape to the Mediterranean, and

that the Nile ran to waste in what is now the Libyan Desert. No doubt

the Nile formed lake after lake, and the overflow from these lakes

slowly bored a passage through the limestone tableland. Then in Miocene

times took place a further rise in the range of the Nubian Alps and

the adjoining land, which caused fractures to occur in the limestone

formation. Of this the Nile took advantage, though it filled up the

rifts to some extent with its debris. The Nile cut at one time a very

deep bed through the limestone; but then occurred fluctuations in

level, a sinking of the Nile valley which once more brought the waters

of the Mediterranean far inland, and covered the channel of the Nile

with rubble washed in by the sea. Previous to this the cracks and

folds which had occurred through the upheaval of the eastern highlands

had evidently caused volcanic disturbances by the water of the Nile

reaching through these cracks the heated strata below. The volcanic

outbursts left behind beds of basalt through which the persistent Nile

again cut a channel. In the later Tertiary ages Egypt was a country of

abundant rainfall, the very reverse of the absolute desert of to-day.

Heavy rains carved and scarped the surface of the country and nourished

a luxuriant forest. At this period the lands lying to the west of

Egypt, in what is now known as the Libyan Desert, were probably a bay

of the Mediterranean.

After the Pliocene Epoch, when man first began to appear on the scene,

there was another lowering of the level of the Nile valley in Egypt,

and the Mediterranean extended its waters perhaps to the vicinity of

Assiut. At this time the Mediterranean was almost certainly connected

with the Red Sea across the Isthmus of Suez. The Nile stream was

probably rapid in its descent towards the extended Mediterranean, and

cut a deeper and deeper channel. Then another rise of the land took

place, separating the Mediterranean from the Red Sea, and sending back

the Mediterranean to something like its present limits; the upheaval

indeed may have made what is now the Delta of the Nile higher than it

is at the present day, while the river cut its way through a channel

many feet deeper than the existing bed. Gradually, however, the Lower

Nile became more sluggish as the land near the Mediterranean rose, and,

losing its rapidity, it deposited more and more thickly the detritus

brought down from Equatorial Africa, Abyssinia, and Nubia, and so

raised its bed to a higher level. It has also enlarged its delta by the

deposit of mud, though the fatuity of its work in this direction (in

the presence of earth waves) is shown by the fluctuations which have

occurred even within the last three thousand years. Not more than a

thousand years ago Lake Menzaleh was a fertile and richly cultivated

district.

[Illustration: IN THE LIBYAN DESERT.]

Some time after man penetrated into Egypt (probably from the east)

the countries to the west of the Lower Nile began to rise above the

sea, for much of the Libyan Desert was under the Mediterranean in the

Tertiary Epoch. This retreat of the sea coupled with other conditions

not clearly known to us brought about a marked change in the climate of

Africa north of the fifteenth degree of north latitude. The aridity of

the Sahara Desert and of Arabia began to exercise a potent influence

over the fate of northern Africa. Many of the lands, which as late

as the human period were still covered with plentiful vegetation and

were traversable by the apes, the elephants, and the antelopes of

to-day, began to dry up into their present condition, an aridity which,

from all we know, is increasing and extending. Only Egypt was kept

alive by the beneficent stream which, so abundantly nurtured by the

snow-mountains and equatorial rain-belt of eastern Africa, survived

even its passage of a thousand miles through the blazing desert, and

covered the narrow ribbon of Upper Egypt and the tassel of the Delta

with an ever fruitful soil of finely triturated mud.

The Nile has a length of course of some four thousand miles

measured along the windings of the channel of its main stream,--the

Kagera-Victoria-Mountain-White Nile. It is still doubtful as to whether

the Missouri-Mississippi in North America is longer than the Nile,

and thus the longest river in length of course in the world. In any

case the Nile has the pre-eminence for actual length of basin, which,

in a straight line measured from the furthest source of the Kagera to

Rosetta on the Mediterranean, is about 2,490 miles.

The area of the Nile basin is approximately 1,080,000 square

miles.[132] This falls short of the area of the Congo basin by some

400,000 square miles. The volume of water which the Nile pours into

the Mediterranean is trivial compared with the Congo’s contribution to

the ocean; but then the waters of the equatorial zone in East Africa

are evaporated from the surface of lakes, squandered in swamps, sucked

up by the desert winds, and finally are employed to irrigate Egypt;

so that no comparison with the output of the Congo would give a fair

idea of the catchment in the Nile basin. This, perhaps (including the

annual contribution to the Nile lakes), reaches to two-thirds of the

volume of water poured into the Atlantic by the Congo’s single mouth.

This geographical sketch is intended to place before the reader the

main features in the geography of Nileland. It is the summing up of

the results of exploration during four or five thousand years. The

preceding chapters deal with the history of the way in which the

Caucasian has laid bare the secrets of the Nile to the curiosity of

the civilised. It is only the Caucasian race which has cared for

geography in the past,--the Caucasian in all his types as Dravidian,

Hamite, Semite, Iberian, and Aryan. The Mongol of Asia and America, the

Negro of Papua and Africa has never cared to ascertain whence rivers

flowed and whither, what lands lay beyond the ocean or the snow-peaks.

Some early cross with a Caucasian race sent the Polynesian cruising

about the Pacific and venturing over the Indian Ocean from Java to

Madagascar; but the more purely Mongoloid brother in China and Japan

did not care to trace the chain of Aleutian Islands to Alaska and

America, or if he did so by accident, felt the question of no interest,

sequence, or importance. Only the Caucasian, and mainly the White

Caucasian, has worried about the Nile problem. He has attacked it first

from the north (Hamite, Greek and Roman); then from the northeast and

east (Hamite and Semite, Greek, Portuguese, and British); once more

from the north (Arabs, Turks, French, British, Germans, Italians);

resolutely from the southeast (British and Germans); latterly from the

southwest (British, Belgians, and French); and, finally and completely,

from the north and northeast.

APPENDIX I

THE ROLL OF FAME

OF THOSE WHO STARTED ON THE NILE QUEST IN MODERN DAYS

NAME. NATIONALITY.

Francisco Alvarez Portuguese.

Pedro Paez ”

JERONIMO LOBO ”

Richard Pococke British (English).

JAMES BRUCE ” (Scottish).

William Browne ” (English).

Johann Ludwig Burckhardt Swiss.

Frederic Cailliaud French.

Adolphe Linant de Bellefonds Belgian.

Prokesch von Osten German.

Eduard Rüppell German.

Selim Bimbashi Turk.

Thibaut French.

D’Arnaud ”

FERDINAND WERNE German.

Brun-Rollet French.

Ignatz Knoblecher Austrian.

ANTOINE THOMSON D’ABBADIE French-Irish.

Arnaud d’Abbadie ” ”

Mansfield Parkyns British (English).

Charles T. Beke ” ”

De Malzac French.

John Petherick British (Welsh).

Alfred Peney French.

Lejean ”

Werner Munzinger Swiss.

Theodor von Heuglin German (Würtemberger).

Alexandrine Tinne Dutch.

JOHN HANNING SPEKE British (English).

JAMES AUGUSTUS GRANT ” (Scottish).

SAMUEL WHITE BAKER ” (English).

Florence Baker Hungarian.

Giovanni Miani Italian (Venetian).

GEORG SCHWEINFURTH Russo-German.

Piaggia Italian.

C. Chaillé-Long United States.

Édouard Linant de Bellefonds Belgian.

CHARLES GEORGE GORDON British (English).

HENRY MORETON STANLEY British (Welsh).

WILHELM JUNKER Russo-German.

C. T. Wilson British (English).

R. W. Felkin ” (Scottish).

Romolo Gessi Italian (Levantine).

C. M. WATSON British (English).

Mason (Bey) United States.

Johann Maria Schuver Dutch.

Ernest Marno Austrian.

EMIN (EDUARD SCHNITZER) German (Silesia).

JOSEPH THOMSON British (Scottish).

Frederick Dealtry Lugard ” (English).

Seymour Vandeleur ” (Irish).

G. F. Scott-Elliot ” (Scottish).

Franz Stuhlmann German.

Oscar Baumann ”

Vittorio Bottego Italian.

JAMES R. LENNOX MACDONALD British (Scottish).

A. H. Dyé French.

J. B. Marchand ”

De Bonchamps French.

M. S. Wellby British (English).

H. H. Austin ” ”

R. G. T. Bright ” ”

C. W. Hobley ” ”

Ewart Grogan ” ”

J. E. S. Moore ” ”

Malcolm Fergusson ” (Scottish).

Lionel Dècle French.

Donaldson Smith United States.

Malcolm Peake British (Scottish).

Weld Blundell ” (English).

Benjamin Whitehouse ” ”

G. W. Gwynn ” (Welsh).

Charles Delmé Radcliffe ” (English).

Oscar Neumann German.

H. H. Wilson British (English).

E. A. Stanton British (English).

William Garstin British (Irish).

This Roll includes those only who added definitely and markedly to the

map of the Nile basin, not those who travelled through these countries

for other than geographical purposes. It comprises: 34 British (21

English, 8 Scots, 3 Welsh, and 2 Irish); 10 Germans, 13 French, 4

Italians, 3 Portuguese, 2 Dutch, 2 Belgians, 2 Americans, 2 Swiss, 3

Austro-Hungarians, 1 Turk.

APPENDIX II

BIBLIOGRAPHY OF WORKS REFERRED TO OR CONSULTED IN THE COMPILATION OF

THIS BOOK

_Previous to 1840_

HISTORY OF ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY, by Sir E. H. Bunbury. London, 1879.

LE NORD DE L’AFRIQUE DANS L’ANTIQUITÉ, by Vivien de St. Martin (full

of valuable and reliable information). Paris, 1863.

GÉOGRAPHIE DU MOYEN AGE, by J. Lelewel. (Brussels, 1852.)

DOCUMENTS SUR L’HISTOIRE DE L’AFRIQUE ORIENTALE, by Guillain. (Paris,

1850.)

GÉOGRAPHIE ANCIENNE, by D’Anville (the 1834 edition brought up to

date by Manne). Paris.

DOCTRINA PTOLEMAEI, etc., by Berlioux. (Paris, 1871.)

PTOLEMY AND THE NILE, by T. Desborough Cooley. (1854.)

GÉOGRAPHIE DES ANCIENS, by P. F. G. Gosselin. Paris, 1798 to 1813.

Various papers by Mr. E. G. Ravenstein in the Proceedings of the

Royal Geographical Society or in the GEOGRAPHICAL MAGAZINE; also

privately written MS.

HISTORY OF EGYPT FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES, by W. M. Flinders Petrie (4

vols.). This and the same author’s article on (ANCIENT) EGYPT in

the new edition of the Encyclopædia Britannica, 1902, are very

useful for ascertaining what information on the knowledge of the

Nile and the Land of Punt was prevalent in Ancient Egypt and at

the time of the Muhammadan invasion of the Nile countries.

HISTORY OF EGYPT, Vol. 1 (1902), by Dr. Wallis Budge.

PTOLEMY’S TOPOGRAPHY OF EASTERN EQUATORIAL AFRICA, by Dr. Schlichter

(Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society, September, 1891).

PARTITION OF AFRICA, by Dr. J. Scott Keltie, Second Edition. 1895.

A SHORT RELATION OF THE RIVER NILE, etc. Proceedings of the Royal

Society, London, Nov. 1, 1668. (Portuguese Jesuits’ travels.)

TRAVELS OF THE JESUITS IN ETHIOPIA, by Bartholomeo Tellez. 1710.

HISTORIA DA AFRICA ORIENTAL PORTUGUEZA, por José Joaquim Lopes de

Lima. Lisbon, 1862.

A VOYAGE TO ABYSSINIA, by Father Jerome Lobo, Portuguese Jesuit,

from the French of LE GRAND. London, 1735.

NARRATIVE OF THE PORTUGUESE EMBASSY TO ABYSSINIA, 1520–1527. (Hakluyt

Society’s publications, Vol. 44, 1881.)

L’HYDROGRAPHIE AFRICAINE AU SEIZIÈME SIÈCLE, D’APRÈS LES PREMIÈRES

EXPLORATIONS PORTUGUAISES. (Lisbon, 1878.)

A DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST and some other Countries, Vol. 1 (Egypt),

by Richard Pococke, LL.D., F.R.S. London, 1743.

TRAVELS IN UPPER AND LOWER EGYPT, by C. S. Sonnini de Manoncourt

(translated by Henry Hunter). London, 1799.

TRAVELS TO DISCOVER THE SOURCE OF THE NILE IN 1768, 1773, by James

Bruce, in 5 vols. Edinburgh, 1790.

(Also an excellent abridgment in 1 vol., published in 1798.)

A Second Edition in 7 vols., 1805, is considered the best and

fullest account of Bruce’s travels, with some of the errors

corrected.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA, EGYPT, AND SYRIA, 1792–1798, by William George

Browne. London, 1800. (Darfur, Nubia.)

THE SOURCES OF THE NILE, by Charles T. Beke. London, 1860.

THE STORY OF AFRICA, by Dr. Robert Brown, Vols. 2 and 3, 1893, 1894.

(A most useful and trustworthy compilation.) London, Cassel.

VOYAGE À MEROE, au Fleuve Blanc, etc., by Frederic Cailliaud. 4 vols.

Paris, 1826.

A VOYAGE TO ABYSSINIA, by Henry Salt, 1814.

JOURNAL OF NAVIGATION ON THE BAHR-EL-ABIAD OR THE WHITE NILE, by A.

Linant de Bellefonds, 1828. African Association, London.

TRAVELS IN NUBIA, by John Louis Buckhardt. London, 1819.

REISEN IN NUBIEN, KORDOFAN, etc., by Eduard Rüppell. Frankfurt a. m.,

1829.

_From 1840 to the Present Day_

PREMIER VOYAGE À LA RECHERCHE DES SOURCES DU BAHR-AL-ABIAD OU NIL

BLANC: Journal de Voyage par Selim Bimbashi. _Bulletin_, Société

de Géographie. Paris, 1840.

DOCUMENTS ET OBSERVATIONS SUR LE COURS DU BAHR-AL-ABIAD, by D’Arnaud

Binbachi. Paris, 1843.

KHARTUM AND THE BLUE AND WHITE NILES (Journeys of Andrew Melly), by

George Melly. London, 1851. 2 vols.

EXPEDITION ZUR ENTDECKUNG DER QUELLEN DES WEISZEN NIL (1840, 1841),

by Ferdinand Werne. Berlin, 1848. (With admirable map of the

White Nile.)

JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, Vol. 17. (Brun-Rollet on

the Sobat River.)

ANNALES DE VOYAGE(?), by Andrea de Bono. Paris, July, 1862.

LE FLEUVE BLANC, by Jules Poncet. 1863.

EGYPT, THE SUDAN, AND CENTRAL AFRICA, etc., by John Petherick. 1861.

TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA AND EXPLORATION OF THE WESTERN NILE

TRIBUTARIES, 2 vols., by Mr. and Mrs. Petherick. 1869.

DIE DEUTSCHER EXPEDITION IN OST AFRICA, 1861–1862, by Heuglin and

Munzinger, in Petermann’s Geographische Mittheilungen, No. 13.

Heuglin also writes on Miss Tinne’s expedition in the same

periodical, No. 15, 1865, and gives further notes on the White

Nile.

TRAVELS IN THE REGION OF THE WHITE NILE, by Alexandrine Tinne. 1869.

GÉODÉSIE DE L’ÉTHIOPIE, by Antoine Thomson d’Abbadie. Paris, 1890. 1

vol.

LIFE IN ABYSSINIA, by Mansfield Parkyns. London, 1853. 2 vols.

GEOLOGY AND ZOÖLOGY OF ABYSSINIA, by W. T. Blanford. 1870.

THE NILE TRIBUTARIES OF ABYSSINIA, by S. W. Baker. 1867.

JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, Vol. 36, p. 2, article by

S. W. Baker.

JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, Vol. 36, pp. 1 to 18.

THE ALBERT NYANZA, etc., by Sir Samuel Baker, M.A. 1866.

THE ALBERT NYANZA, etc., by Sir Samuel Baker, M.A., New Edition. 1872.

TRAVELS, RESEARCHES, AND MISSIONARY LABOURS, by Dr. J. L. Krapf. 1860.

WHAT LED TO THE DISCOVERY OF THE NILE SOURCES, by Captain J. H.

Speke. 1864.

THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA, by R. F. Burton. 1860.

JOURNAL OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCE OF THE NILE, by J. H. Speke.

1864.

A WALK ACROSS AFRICA, by J. A. Grant. 1865.

REISE IN DAS GEBIET DES WEISSEN NIL und seine westlichen Zuflusse,

1862–1864, von M. Theodor von Heuglin. Leipzig, 1869.

THE HEART OF AFRICA, by Georg Schweinfurth. 2 vols. London, 1873.

REISE IN NORDOST AFRICA, etc., von M. Theodor von Heuglin. Brunswick,

1869.

THROUGH THE DARK CONTINENT, by H. M. Stanley. 2 vols. 1877.

UGANDA AND THE EGYPTIAN SUDAN, by C. T. Wilson and R. W. Felkin. 1879.

SIR SAMUEL BAKER: a Memoir by T. Douglas Murray and A. Silva White.

London, 1895.

ISMAILIA, by Sir Samuel W. Baker. London, 1874.

REMARKS ON A PROPOSED LINE OF TELEGRAPH OVERLAND from Egypt to the

Cape of Good Hope, by (Sir) Edwin Arnold, Colonel J. A. Grant,

and others. London, 1876.

COLONEL GORDON IN CENTRAL AFRICA, 1874–1879, by George Birkbeck Hill.

London, 1881.

CENTRAL AFRICA: NAKED TRUTHS OF NAKED PEOPLE, by Colonel C.

Chaillé-Long. London, 1876.

PROCEEDINGS OF THE KHÉDIVIAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF CAIRO,

1860–1882. [Schuver, Marno and other travellers.]

ARTICLES of Mr. E. G. Ravenstein on the researches of the Rev. C.

Wakefield in Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society, 1875,

1880.

THROUGH MASAILAND, by Joseph Thomson. 1885.

TRAVELS IN AFRICA DURING THE YEARS 1875–1878; 1879–1883; 1882–1886;

1890, 1891, 1892. By Dr. Wilhelm Junker.

SEVEN YEARS IN THE SUDAN, by Romolo Gessi Pasha. London, 1892.

IN DARKEST AFRICA, by H. M. Stanley. 2 vols. 1890.

MIT EMIN PASHA INS HERZ VON AFRICA, by Dr. Franz Stuhlmann. Berlin,

1894.

ÉTHIOPIE MÉRIDIONALE, by Jules Borelli. Paris, 1890.

A NATURALIST’S WANDERINGS IN MID-AFRICA, by C. Scott Elliot. 1894.

DURCH MASAILAND ZUR NIL QUELLE, by Oscar Baumann. Berlin, 1894.

JOURNEYS TO THE NORTH OF UGANDA, by Colonel J. R. L. Macdonald and

Major H. H. Austin in Geographical Journal of August, 1899.

(Also Blue Books giving reports of Major Macdonald’s expedition.)

CAMPAIGNING ON THE UPPER NILE AND NIGER, by Seymour Vandeleur. 1899.

THE CAPE TO CAIRO, by E. Grogan and A. Sharp. 1900.

THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON, by J. E. Moore. 1902.

THE TANGANYIKA PROBLEM, by J. E. Moore. 1902.

AMONG SWAMPS AND GIANTS IN EQUATORIAL AFRICA, by H. H. Austin. 1902.

KING MENELIK’S DOMINIONS AND THE COUNTRY BETWEEN LAKE GALLOP (RUDOLF)

AND THE NILE VALLEY, by Captain M. S. Wellby. Geographical

Journal for September, 1900. London.

THE STORY OF AFRICA, Vols. 2, 3, and 4, by Dr. Robert Brown

(1893–1895).

THE UGANDA PROTECTORATE, by Sir Harry Johnston. 2 vols. 1902.

THE GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL (London) for July and December, 1901; and

October, 1902.

THE JOURNAL OF THE AFRICAN SOCIETY (London) 1902, 1903. [Colonel

Stanton’s articles.]

[Illustration: OROGRAPHICAL FEATURES of the NILE BASIN]

[Illustration: LAND SURFACE FEATURES of the NILE BASIN]

FOOTNOTES

[1] A superior type of dark-haired white man allied with Circassian and

Persian, and perhaps a direct development from the Dravidian.

[2] The Kudu, which is a tragelaph rather than an antelope, exists at

the present day in the eastern part of the Egyptian Sudan, between

Abyssinia and the Nile, and its remains are found fossil in Algeria. It

may therefore have extended even within the historical period to near

the shores of the Mediterranean.

[3] This word is the origin of the Arabised _Fayūm_, a name given to

the remains of a curious Nile reservoir, or backwater-lake, to the west

of the Nile, in the Libyan Desert.

[4] The Biblical Yeôr. The Hebrews also called the Nile _Shikhor_,

or the “Black.” The earliest Greek name for the river and country is

_Aiguptos_ (the origin of “Egypt”). Later the name _Neilos_ (Nile) was

given to the river. This became the later Arab and European _Nilus_,

_Nil_, _Nile_, etc. The origin of the Greek names _Aiguptos_ and

_Neilos_ is unknown, but _Neilos_ may be derived from the Persian word

_nil_ = blue.

[5] Needless to say, in all cases the iris of these eyes is actually

gray; but the gray almost verges on blue in some instances, while the

absence or presence of a dark rim round the eyes gives or withholds the

violet tinge to the gray.

[6] Ptolemy’s original maps have disappeared, and we only know them

through the well-nigh innumerable copies that were made by Greek monks

between 600 and 900 A.D., by Arabs in the Islamic Renaissance, by

Latin monks and pilgrims, by Venetian and Catalan sailors, and Flemish

or German geographers. Latterly many of these copyists imported into

Ptolemy’s maps of the Nile much recent and modern information.

[7] Even to-day the local (unofficial) name of Berber or any of the

districts round Berber is Ibrim.

[8] This mistake is hardly surprising, seeing that at Matama, in the

country of Galabat, the most southern affluent of the Atbara approaches

to within five miles of the most eastern affluent of the Blue Nile. See

Chapter XXVI.

[9] Ptolemy Philadelphus’ chief inducement to establish stations in

Abyssinia was to procure war elephants. Thus to these Egyptian Greeks

and Ethiopians the African elephant did not appear too intractable.

[10] Dongola, the accepted name for the Nubian country north of

Kordofan, appears at one time to have been inhabited by a race speaking

a Hamitic rather than a Nubian language. Dongola (originally Dankala),

or its plural, Danagla, may be etymologically connected with Danākil of

the north Somali coast.

[11] Gala and Somali are almost convertible terms. But in this book

Somali is used to indicate that section of the Gala peoples who have

become Muhammadans, and Gala is reserved as a general term for the

whole race or for its non-Islamite tribes.

[12] The Arabic and Turkish name for Venice is, or was, Bunduq. This

was a clumsy rendering of the German Venedig, which again was a

corruption of the Latin Veneticum. Although the Arab _q_ (a very strong

_k_) is almost unpronounceable by most Europeans, it is nevertheless

constantly used by Arabs for translating the _k_-sound in European

words.

[13] By “Dravidian” I mean that very early and little differentiated,

dark-coloured Caucasian of India who is only a few degrees, physically,

above the Australian race.

[14] At the time of these exploits Oporto, now the second town of

Portugal, was of little account; the great port at the mouth of the

Douro was called in Latin Portus Calis, or, in the local dialect,

Portucal. This place, being the most important port in the district

recovered from the Moors by Count Henry, gave its name to the little

principality which he founded.

[15] Algarve is simply a Portuguese softening of the Arabic words

Al Gharb, the Extreme West or place of sun-setting. At that time

Morocco, across the Straits, was also called Al Gharb for the same

reason. Therefore, after these conquests, the kings of Portugal styled

themselves “Kings of the Algarves, on this side and on the other side

of the sea.” The after-triumphs of the Portuguese in the path of

exploration, conquest, and colonisation were finally summed up in the

grandiose titles of their monarchs, which endure to the present day,

and which may well be allowed to endure with respect, seeing what the

world’s knowledge owes to the Portuguese navigators and conquistadores.

The titles run, “Rey de Portugal e dos Algarves, alem e aquem do Mar

na Africa; Senhor da Guiné e da conquista e da navegaçao d’Ethiopia,

Arabia, Persia e India” (King of Portugal and of the Algarves, on this

side and on the other side of the Sea in Africa; Lord of Guinea, and of

the conquest and navigation of Ethiopia, Arabia, Persia, and India).

[16] Prester John.

[17] It may be interesting to some to know that Vasco is a contraction

of Velasco, meaning “hairy,” and was a nickname often given to

Portuguese in early days.

[18] In Lobo’s book the date is given as 1613, but Bruce shows with

some likelihood that, according to the native Abyssinian chronicles,

the date of Paez’ visit to the sources of the Blue Nile was probably

1615. In the Latin version of Paez’ account of his travels, published

at Rome in 1652 by the Jesuit Athanasius Kircher, the date given is the

21st of April, 1618.

[19] See page 30.

[20] Probably, from the description given, _Equus grevyi_; so that

this, the largest, rarest, and the latest described of all the zebras,

was probably the first example of the striped horse to receive that

name at the hands of the Portuguese, and become known to Europe. The

name is spelt “zevra” in Father Lobo’s account, in some versions

“zeura.”

[21] The modern term, Gala or Galla, used to denominate that section of

the Hamite people closely akin to the Somalis yet heathen and dwelling

inland, is derived through the Portuguese from an Abyssinian cant term

meaning “wild,” “savage.” It is unrecognized by the “Gallas” themselves.

[22] Father Lobo gives an excellent description of the coasts of the

Red Sea as known to the Portuguese at the beginning of the seventeenth

century. Among other places that are probably mentioned for the first

time is Suakin, which is written “Suaquem.”

[23] Fremona, the first and principal seat of the Jesuits, was nine

or ten miles from Axum. It was originally called Maigoga, but the

name Fremona was given to it by the Portuguese Jesuits as being the

Abyssinian version of Frumentius, who was the so-called Apostle of

Abyssinia, and converted the rulers of that country to the Greek Church

in the fourth century.

[24] Lake Tsana is usually styled by Lobo and the earlier Portuguese

travellers Dambia (Dembea); but they also give it the name of Sena,

which is obviously the same as Bruce’s version of Tsana.

[25] Some of the blame undoubtedly must be laid on the shoulders of

the Dutch and Saxon map-makers, who used and distorted Portuguese

information.

[26] _Habsh_, _Habshi_ is the name given to Negroes at the present day

in Hindustani.

[27] A Description of the East and some other countries, Vol. I., by

Richard Pococke, LL.D., F. R. S. London, 1743.

[28] He filled many posts between 1725 and his death in 1771. He

desired to be made Secretary of State for the West Indies, but George

II. refused. His efforts to foster British trade and colonial expansion

were much appreciated by merchants and colonials, and Halifax, in Nova

Scotia, is named after him.

[29] Algeria was then practically a dependency of Turkey, governed by

Turks.

[30] Though it is so stated, the delay was apparently caused by the

complete breakdown of Bruce’s health, a breakdown which obliged him

to spend some time at Italian sulphur baths (Poretta). Bruce, before

leaving Sennar and the regions of the Blue Nile, had received into his

system the germ of the Guinea worm. This creature developed in the

usual way. One day when Bruce was reading on a sofa at Cairo he felt

an itching on his leg, and soon afterwards through the pimple thus

raised appeared the head of the worm. Three inches of this parasite

were wound off round a piece of silk, but on the ship which conveyed

Bruce from Alexandria to Marseilles the surgeon clumsily broke off the

portion of the worm extruding from the body. The remainder of the worm

still in the leg caused the most terrible agony for thirty-five days,

which Bruce had to spend in the lazaretto at Marseilles. Here, however,

he received better surgical treatment. Nevertheless, for some time

afterwards his leg gave him considerable trouble, and apparently, in

1774, he had to visit Italian sulphur baths.

[31] All except, perhaps, some of his stories of Nubia and Sennar.

[32] It is curious to read of his using a “rifle” in Abyssinia and

thereby astonishing the princes.

[33] The name of this notable African city is said to mean, in the

local Arabic, “elephant’s trunk,” as the long spit of sand on which it

was erected was supposed to resemble that feature. Other etymologies

are quoted. Apparently the name was that of a small fishing village of

grass huts which was selected by Ibrahim Pasha as a camp commanding

both the White and Blue Niles and easily defended. Khartum, from its

situation, rapidly became the metropolis of the Sudan. It was taken

and destroyed by the Mahdi in 1885. Its site was reoccupied by Lord

Kitchener’s victorious force in 1898. Khartum has since been rebuilt,

and will probably become one of the greatest cities of Africa.

[34] The son of a Swiss soldier in the Swiss corps subsidised by

England in the Napoleonic wars.

[35] Afterwards absorbed by the Royal Geographical Society.

[36] As this journey was financed by the African Association, it may be

regarded as a British contribution to Nile exploration.

[37] The name Muhammad is affectedly pronounced by the Turks Mehemet,

but is of course written by them Muhammad.

[38] Afterwards for nearly forty years French consular agent at Khartum.

[39] Mainly supported by the Archduchess Sophia.

[40] The names of the principal members of this Austrian Roman Catholic

Mission, which finally abandoned its labors about 1862, owing to

the terribly unhealthy climate of the Upper Nile, were Knoblecher,

Beltrame, Morlang, Ueberbacher, Ryllo, and Dorvak. Of their numbers

(seventeen in all) fifteen died of fever or dysentery, and only two

returned to Europe. Beltrame wrote important works in Italian on

the Dinka language. Knoblecher, Ueberbacher, and Morlang collected

materials for the illustration of the Bari language, which were put

together by Mitterrützner.

[41] Glamorgan.

[42] It may be mentioned here that throughout the Sudan, from the

Albert Nyanza to Khartum, the Egyptians, as distinct from their

Sudanese soldiers, are always spoken of as Turki or Turūk. Kordofan,

once the home of the Nubians and of Negro races, was overrun by Arabs

for several centuries, and more than a hundred years ago formed part of

the half-Ethiopian kingdom of Sennar. It was then subdued by the mailed

horsemen of Darfur, and held by them until conquered by the Egyptian

army under Ibrahim Pasha in 1820.

[43] Petherick in his last book writes in eulogistic terms of the

behaviour of this mere boy (so far as age went) throughout all the

trying experiences that the Pethericks underwent in their journeys up

and down the White Nile and the rivers of the Bahr-al-Ghazal. It would

be interesting to know what became of Foxcroft after so promising a

début in African travel.

[44] Many of these tribes are known to us at the present day by foolish

nicknames. For instance, the Kamasia people, who dwell in the western

part of the Baringo district, really call themselves El Tūkan. Turkana

seems often pronounced Tukana.

[45] Amabile, tried and sentenced to imprisonment by Petherick

for slave-trading, and Andrea de Bono, who, though ostensibly an

ivory-trader, was very unscrupulous in his methods. De Bono, however,

was the first European to explore the countries to the east of the

Mountain Nile, i.e., between the main Nile and the basin of Lake Rudolf.

[46] Near the confluence of the Asua River.

[47] Down to about 1860 the Arab ruler over East Africa was the Imam of

Maskat, the sovereign of the principality of Oman on the Persian Gulf.

For more than a hundred years, however, the Imam of Maskat deputed one

of his sons or kinsmen to be Sayyid of Zanzibar.

[48] By its own people this country is called _Wu-nya-mwezi_. _Wu-_ is

a degenerate form of the Bantu _bu-_ prefix, which is often used to

indicate a country. _Nya_ is a particle, meaning “of,” or “concerning,”

and _mwezi_ = the moon. Unyamwezi is, however, so far away from

Ruwenzori on the one hand or Kilimanjaro on the other that it is

difficult to associate its name (which so far as we know has been in

existence for about four centuries) with that of the snow-mountains.

[49] Speke and others are of opinion that there was a considerable

civilisation in Somaliland at one time, which completely disappeared

after the Muhammadanising of the country. The Somali (except those

of the far interior) were converted to Islam by Arab immigrants in

the fifteenth century. Prior to this they had been Christian to

some extent, a much degraded type of Christianity having penetrated

southwards from Abyssinia. It is hardly necessary to point out that the

Somali and Gala are practically one people in race and language. Gala

is only apparently a cant term originating in Abyssinia and unknown

to the people whom we call by that name. It is also interesting to

note that Speke and other explorers heard in Somaliland, in the “early

fifties,” of the existence of a great lake far in the interior which

was in all probability the Victoria Nyanza. The present writer has

endeavoured to show, in his book on the Uganda Protectorate, that in

ancient times considerable trading intercourse was kept up between

Somaliland and the northeast shores of the Victoria Nyanza.

[50] Victoria Nyanza. Often so called in earlier days by the Arabs,

from Bukerebe, a large island near the south shore.

[51] Though Burton subsequently recanted this opinion in order to

embarrass Speke’s theories, and declared that the Rusizi was the outlet

of Tanganyika.

[52] After his Somersetshire home, and the Indian word for a

creek--_ălla_.

[53] Walter L’Espec, in the reign of Henry I., founded three

abbeys,--Kirkham, Rivaulx, and Warden. In the thirteenth century the

L’Especs altered the spelling of their name to Speke. One Speke lost

property by faithfulness to Charles I.; another got into (and out of)

trouble in the reign of Charles II. by advocating the claims to the

succession of the Duke of Monmouth.

[54] In one of his books Speke shows us how Burton and himself managed

to communicate with the natives. Neither of them--not even Burton--had

a sufficient knowledge of Kiswahili during their journey to Tanganyika

to talk direct with their porters. They conversed with “Bombay,”

their Swahili interpreter, in Hindustani. Burton also was able to

speak Arabic with the Arab traders. Both, perhaps, are a little too

inclined to overlook this language difficulty in describing their

conversations with native chiefs. In all cases these must have been

carried on in the following manner: The chief would probably speak

in his native language, which would be translated by somebody else

into Swahili, and this again would be translated by Bombay, or Frij,

or some other interpreter, into Hindustani or English; or, again,

Burton’s information might be rendered by some Arab in Arabic. Direct

communications no doubt were sometimes made by both parties in broken

Swahili.

[55] Mr. T. Douglas Murray, who afterwards became Baker’s biographer.

This letter was written near the close of Sir Samuel Baker’s life, on

the 22d of August, 1893.

[56] See his “Discovery of the Source of the Nile.”

[57] Discovery of the Source of the Nile, p. 31.

[58] Worthy of mention here as being the southernmost extension of

“Nilotic” influence among the East African races.

[59] _Gazella granti_, the horns of which are far longer than is the

case with any other gazelle, the animal itself being about the size of

a fallow deer.

[60] A Hima state, lying to the west of the Victoria Nyanza.

[61] This, of course, was Lake Albert, the waters of which are slightly

brackish. But it is often called the Salt Lake by the Arabs, from the

large deposits of salt on its shores.

[62] They meant, of course, the Rukuga, which flows through Marungu.

[63] Hima or Huma is the commonest name applied locally to the Gala

aristocracy in East Equatorial Africa.

[64] Journal of the Discovery of the Sources of the Nile.

[65] Throughout the writings of Burton, Speke, and Stanley, this race

is called Wahuma. The most common term, however, by which they are

known and know themselves is Bahima (_hima_ being the root and _Ba-_

the plural prefix).

[66] This is the more curious because, on page 276 in the “Discovery of

the Source of the Nile,” Speke writes of “a long range of view of the

lake, and of the large island or group of islands called Sese, where

the king of Uganda keeps one of his fleets.”

[67] According to the traditions of the natives, syphilis and smallpox

entered Uganda about the same time, and came originally from Unyoro.

Unyoro received these plagues from the first Nubian slave- and

ivory-trading caravans, which were the pioneers of Egyptian rule in the

forties of the last century. Syphilis and smallpox were also brought by

the Zanzibar trading caravans from Unyamwezi not many years later.

[68] This, indeed, long before the British Protectorate, Gordon Pasha

meditated, and was only restrained therefrom by the intervention of Sir

John Kirk.

[69] It is a question whether all these spirits were not in origin

deified chiefs or medicine-men, who after death were supposed to become

controllers of the lake, of the rain supply, of certain diseases, or

of certain functions. Speke considers that a small element of phallic

worship was mixed up with the old Uganda religion.

[70] Muzungu, i.e., “White-man.”

[71] This word is really a mis-hearing on Speke’s part for Bwana,

which, again, is a corruption of Abuna, the Arab word for “our father.”

Bwana is the respectful term, meaning “master,” which is applied in the

Swahili language to all persons of superior position. It was the name

by which Speke was known throughout his stay in Uganda, though it has

long since been discarded for “Sapiki.”

[72] Since, by the unspeakable barbarism of the British Administration,

_cut down_!

[73] Albert Nyanza.

[74] Speke and Baker had met before in India.

[75] Florence Ninian von Sass. Lady Baker survives her husband.

[76] For something like twelve hundred miles, from the mouth of the

Atbara to the sea, the Nile receives no further contribution of water.

[77] _Cycloderma_, the Leathery Fresh-water Turtle.

[78] This great lake was in reality nothing but the lake-like course

of the Upper Congo. The words for river and lake in almost all African

languages are the same.

[79] She usually signed herself Alexine. Her full name was Alexandrina

Petronella Francina Tinne. The name is spelt without an accented _e_,

and is pronounced as it would be in German.

[80] Her nephew, Mr. John Tinne, however, informs the present writer

that his aunt once wrote to him saying that “ever since she was a

little girl doing lessons she had longed to see what there was on the

great blank spot on the map of Africa.”

[81] This account of the death of Miss Tinne is derived from

information very kindly supplied to the author by her nephew, Theodore

F. S. Tinne, Esq., of Hawkhurst, Kent.

[82] She was only thirty-three at the time of her death.

[83] France was dogged with continual ill-luck in her attempts to

open up and explore the Nile basin. Expedition after expedition and

explorer after explorer, despatched directly or indirectly under French

auspices, failed (generally by death from fever) in grasping the great

discoveries which fell to more fortunate Germans and Englishmen.

[84] They were, however, first mentioned by Piaggia.

[85] Heuglin forestalled him, perhaps, as regards the Gray Parrot.

[86] These people do not call themselves by the designation. It is one

applied to them by the Arabs as a nickname, indicating the gusto with

which they eat human flesh. They themselves acknowledge several names,

such as Azande and Makarka.

[87] Pierced by the ants so that they become whistles played on by the

wind.

[88] First of all revealed to our notice by the Italian explorer,

Piaggia, who succeeded Miani and preceded Dr. Schweinfurth.

[89] A gifted French explorer who attempted to forestall other

expeditions in discovering the Central African lakes. He was murdered

about a hundred miles inland from Zanzibar.

[90] Younger brother of Adolphe Linant, an early Nile explorer of 1827

and 1828.

[91] In a pamphlet written in conjunction with Mr. Kerry Nichols and

Colonel J. A. Grant, published in 1876, by William Clowes.

[92] Romolo Gessi was a Levantine Italian, born at Constantinople in

1831, who had gradually drifted into the employment of the Egyptian

government. He became a Pasha after Gordon’s departure from the Sudan

in 1880.

[93] Now Colonel Watson, R.E. In 1874–1875 Lieutenant C. M. Watson,

accompanied by Lieutenant Chippendall, made an admirable survey of

the main Nile from Khartum to Gondokoro, and later assisted Gordon in

completing this survey up to Lake Albert.

[94] A portion of this is often called Makarka.

[95] During this struggle Gessi was hard put to it for food, but he

quaintly notes that “Of all our troops only the Makarka and Nyam-nyam

remained healthy, owing to their feeding on human flesh. Directly

after a battle they cut off the feet of the dead, and consumed these,

together with their brains.”

[96] Whose encyclopædic work on the Galas will soon be published. Mr.

Wakefield died in 1902.

[97] Dweru, like Nyanza, is a very common Bantu word which is applied

equally to lake and river. It simply means “whiteness.” With different

prefixes it becomes Mweru, Jeru, and so forth.

[98] In giving extracts from this as from other works of Nile explorers

the present writer often summarises. He also employs sometimes more

modern spelling in scientific nomenclature to avoid puzzling the reader

habituated to the most recent descriptions.

[99] Vide chap. ix. p. 107.

[100] This stream, joining others from farther east, enters the

Mountain Nile near the bifurcation of the Giraffe River.--H. H. J.

[101] Khor Kos flows into the Oguelokur, and thus into the

Bahr-az-Ziraf. See chap. xxvi.

[102] The distribution of the branching Hyphæne Fan palm is very

peculiar. It is found right across the Sahara, south of latitude 25°,

to the vicinity of the Atlantic. It avoids the better watered regions

of Nigeria and the Bahr-al-Ghazal, but on the east extends across

Somaliland and down the coast to Mombasa.--H. H. J.

[103] Probably Emin refers to the lanky _Cercopithecus patas_.

[104] Really a plantain-eater--_Schizorhis_ or

_Gymnoschizorhis_.--H. H. J.

[105] The white-eared Kob antelope.--H. H. J.

[106] The Kafuru. This was re-examined by the author of this book.

It is a narrow winding channel passing between high banks. In spite

of the author’s delineation of this feature in his book, “The Uganda

Protectorate,” map-makers still continue to draw it as a lake-like

straight arm connecting the Albert Edward with Dweru.

[107] Dweru, as already explained, merely means a white surface or

sheet of water.

[108] This word is the name of one of the tributaries of the Kagera.

[109] M. Dècle travelled overland from the Cape of Good Hope to the

Victoria Nile in 1892–1894.

[110] Dr. Kandt (who first correctly mapped Lake Kivu) traced the

course of the important Nyavarongo and Akanyaru tributaries of the

Kagera. This learned explorer died in 1901.

[111] Lugard mapped much of the country between Uganda and Ruwenzori

and discovered Lake Wamala in western Uganda.

[112] Mr Jackson’s magnificent zoölogical collections, especially in

mammals, birds, and butterflies, have, with those of Mr. Oscar Neumann,

done much to illustrate the fauna of southern Nileland.

[113] It is said that the contribution to the Nile waters from the

great Victoria Nyanza is not more considerable than the maximum

discharge of one of the great canals in Egypt. Much of the volume

of the Victoria Nile is spread out to waste and evaporate in the

Kioga-Kwania Lake, which also receives the heavy rainfall of north and

west Elgon.

[114] I should again like to point out how frequent amongst Nilotic

Negroes is the word Kir for a big river. This name is frequently

applied to the main Nile, and appears even to crop up again in the

Bantu languages of the Victoria Nyanza, for in Luganda the Nile is also

called Kiira.

[115] Piaggia was originally an Italian mechanic, born at Alexandria.

He drifted to the Sudan in 1856, and generally attached himself as a

sort of caravan leader to the traders in the Bahr-al-Ghazal. In this

capacity he explored (quite unscientifically) the Nyam-nyam country in

1863–1865, and in 1876 he visited Lake Kioga and the Victoria Nile.

[116] For various reasons not all Captain Marchand’s officers could be

brought away from the Nile immediately. Lieutenant Tanguedec was left

for some two years entirely isolated on the White Nile near Bor.

[117] A name very suggestive of the Bantu languages.

[118] Negroes of the Semliki valley and forest.

[119] This lake is at present one of the unsolved African problems

as regards its history and affinities. Unlike other lakes of Central

Africa, its fauna has marine affinities, and would seem indeed to be

actually of marine origin. It is at the present day connected somewhat

intermittently with the Congo drainage, and therefore with the Atlantic

Ocean; and one assumption to explain the existence of its sponges,

shrimps, and jelly-fishes is that in Jurassic times it was connected

with a vast inlet of the Atlantic Ocean which occupied the northern

half of the low-lying Congo basin. Yet, when a relief map of Africa is

looked at, it strikes one at a glance that Tanganyika lies within the

same rift valley as Lakes Kivu, Albert Edward, Albert Nyanza, and the

Albertine Nile. Its southern end may also have been connected through

Lake Rukwa, with the rift valley of Lake Nyasa. It would be easy to

imagine the occurrence of a recent and slight upheaval which detached

this lake from the Nile system and sent its overflowing waters in the

direction of the Congo, but for the aforementioned marine fauna of

its waters. Its history, therefore, remains at the present moment an

unsolved problem.

[120] With a bifurcated rift up Tanganyika.

[121] See “L’Omo,” by L. Vannutelli and C. Citerni.

[122] A small and very interesting lake which lies about sixty miles to

the north of Tanganyika, and communicates with that lake by the river

Rusizi.

[123] Some rising as far south as Lat. 3° 50′ S. and within ten miles

of Tanganyika.

[124] Bahr-al-Jabl, so called by the Turks and early French and German

explorers, because by following it up stream they came at last to

mountains after the thousand miles of marsh between Khartum and Bor.

[125] “River of gazelles,” i.e., antelopes, the name given to it by the

Sudanese Arabs from the dense herds of game which were formerly to be

seen on its marshy shores.

[126] The Ruzi River, which rises to the west of Lake Rudolf, under the

fourth degree of north latitude, was considered by the late Captain

Wellby to be the southernmost source of the Sobat, but this supposition

has not been verified.

The Ruzi or the two Ruzis probably join the three big streams--the

Oguelokur, Tu, and Kos--which enter the Giraffe River.

[127] This name means “the terrible,” from the violence with which it

sweeps down a winding chasm from an altitude of 7,000 feet in Abyssinia

to 2,500 feet in the Nubian plains.

[128] Who transmitted the rumour to Greek travellers and merchants

visiting the coasts of the Red Sea and East Africa. These again handed

on the information to Greek and Roman geographers.

[129] A corruption of Runsororo.

[130] Wosho Mountain, approximately sixteen thousand feet.

[131] Snow may perhaps occasionally lie for a few days on the highest

points of the volcanic Mfumbiro peaks (Sabinzi and Karisimbi), which

are over thirteen thousand feet and lie almost within the limits of

the Nile basin, to the south of Lake Albert Edward; and there may be a

little permanent snow perhaps on the peaks over eleven thousand feet in

height on the southeast of Basutoland in South Africa.

[132] A little less perhaps than Dr. A. Bludan’s estimate.

INDEX

Aahmes, 11

Abbadie, Antoine Thomson d’, 111, 279, 280, 281, 319

Abbadie, Arnaud d’, 279, 319

Ablaing, Baron d’, 193

Abyssinia, 3, 298 _et seq._;

history of, 30 _et seq._, 46 _et seq._, 61, 112, 277 _et seq._;

geography of, 30, 57, 70, 87, 111, 179, 182, 203, 204, 279 _et

seq._;

people of, 31 _et seq._, 61, 82 _et seq._,

(raw-meat eating) 81–85,

(feasts) 82–85;

Christianity of, 48, 51, 58;

Emperor of, 49, 51, 57, 66, 77, 182, 278 _et seq._;

name of, 60, 61;

missionaries in, 112, 182, 278;

likeness to Bahima, 144;

Mother of the Nile, 179;

mountains, 297, 312

Acacia (gum) trees, 182, 205, 207, 209, 218, 220, 294

Acholi (Shuli), people, 165, 184, 253, 274, 296

Adel (Somaliland), 48

Aden, 115, 127, 276

Adua, 33

Adulis, 27, 33

Afar, 4, 30

Africa, East, 22, 44, 48, 133, 246

Africa, Negro, 21

Africa, North, 15, 38, 199

Africa, South, 134, 147

Africa, West, 148, 217, 219, 242, 245

African Association, 86, 90

African wild flowers, flora, 133, 177, 204, 205, 218, 257, 258

Agoro Mountains, 272

Ais, Al, 94, 99

Akka pygmies, 110, 216

Akobo River, 287, 290

Albania, Albanians, 94

Albert Edward, Lake, 171, 227, 260, 262, 269, 270, 304

Albert Nyanza, 26, 71, 97, 129, 164, 170, 173, 185 _et seq._, 231 _et

seq._, 250, 260 _et seq._, 304

Alexander the Great, 12, 13, 16, 90

Alexandra Nyanza, 228, 266

Alexandria, 16, 22, 23, 66, 80, 95

Algarve (southern province of Portugal), 46

Algiers, Algeria, 76

Aloes, 122, 204, 218

Alvarez, Francisco, 47, 69, 319

Ambach, or Ambady, 244

Ambatch (_Herminiera_), 209, 210, 294

Ambukol, 96, 310

America, Americans, 8, 233, 273, 317, 321

Amhara, 277, 278

Amharic language, 62, 63, 280

Ankole, 148, 262, 298

Antelopes, 182, 201, 209, 306

Anthropology, 200, 211, 212, 217, 251

Anville, D’, 70 _et seq._, 80, 202

Apes, anthropoid, 4, 5, 315

Apuddo (Apuddu), 109

Arabia, 1, 3, 7, 17, 95

Arabs, 17 _et seq._, 22, 39, 44, 50, 113, 119, 180, 181, 246, 317

Arabs of Zanzibar, their early knowledge of African geography, 139,

140

Aragonese, 40

Aristocracy in Nileland, 156

Aristocreon, 19

Aristotle, 16

Arnaud, D’, 96, 100, 319

Arnold, Sir Edwin, 228, 274

Aruwimi River, 240, 260, 264

Aryan races, languages, 14

Asia Minor, 19

Assiut, 88

Assuan, 19, 39, 77, 87, 95, 96

Astaboras (Abbara, _see_) 21, 27

Astapus (Blue Nile), 16, 27

Astasobas, 27

Asua River, 109, 134, 166, 167, 232, 272, 306

Atbara, 20 _et seq._, 25, 48, 92, 176 _et seq._, 203, 240, 278, 288,

310

Atlantic Ocean, 317

Austin, H. H., 271, 286, 287

Austria, Austrians, 96, 234, 248, 321

Austrian Mission on Mountain Nile, 97 _et seq._, 167

Author’s contributions to Nile geography, 248, 270

Auxuma, Axum, 27, 33

Azania, 22

Baggara Arabs, 211

Bahr-al-Arab, 71, 201, 230, 238, 242, 243, 307

Bahr-al-Aswad, 180

Bahr-al-Azrak, _see_ Blue Nile

Bahr-al-Ghazal River, 5, 6, 21, 43, 71, 72, 98, 100 _et seq._, 106

_et seq._, 192 _et seq._, 201 _et seq._, 212 _et seq._, 234,

236 _et seq._, 240, 241 _et seq._, 274, 285, 306 _et seq._

Bahr-al-Hamr, 194, 201, 243

Bahr-al-Jabl, _see_ White and Mountain Nile

Bahr-az-Ziraf, _see_ Giraffe Nile

Bailul, 54

Baker, Sir Samuel, 103, 129, 131, 167, 168;

birth and parentage, 174;

marriage and Ceylon, 175;

in Turkey, 176;

second marriage, 176;

commences Nile exploration, 176;

on the Atbara, 177 _et seq._;

starts for Albert Nyanza, 183 _et seq._;

deceived as to extent of this lake, 186;

knighted, 188;

results of his explorations, 189;

returns to Nileland, 190, 191;

character, 191, 320

Baker (Florence), Lady, 167, 176, 182, 320

_Balæniceps rex_, 101, 102, 295

Balega Negroes (Lendu), 297

Baltic provinces, 203

Baluchistan, Baluchi, 2, 43

Balugano (Italian draftsman), 77

Banana, the, 57, 153

Bantu languages, 114, 137, 138, 261, 284, 290, 291

Bantu Negro, 29, 38, 137, 290

Baobab tree, 182, 294

Bari country, people, 21, 97, 98, 108 _et seq._, 188, 190, 238

Baringo, Lake, 113, 162, 247

Baro (_see also_ Sobat), 284, 285, 288

Barth, Dr., 217

Basalt, 210, 314

Basilis (Greek explorer), 19

Bath, 170

Baumann, Oscar, 266, 267, 268, 320

Baumgarten (Swiss engineer), 99

Beads, Blue Egyptian, 36

Beatrice Gulf, 227, 262

Beke, Dr. C. T., 111, 280, 319

Belgium, Belgians, 225, 238, 242, 269, 318, 321

Beltrame, Father, 97

Benue River, 219

Berber (Primnis, Ibrim), 25, 69, 188, 205

Berbera, 116

Berbers, the, 199

Berkeley, Fort, 106

Berlin, 203

Bermudez, 47 _et seq._

Berta Negroes, 289, 297

Bilma, 20

Binesho tribe, 290

Bion (Greek explorer), 19

Birds, 208, 255, 295

Biri River, 216

Blackwater fever, 107, 195

Blackwood’s Magazine, 128, 170

Blandford, Dr. W. T., 282

Blood-drinking (Abyssinian, East African), 81, 82

Blundell, Weld, 287, 321

Bogos country, 283, 294

“Bombay” (Speke’s faithful), 130, 165, 169

Bonchamps, De, 286

Bongo tribe, 217

Bono, Andrea de, 106 _et seq._, 165, 168, 187

Bor, 106, 285, 291, 292

Boran Galas, 72

_Borassus_, palm (_Doleb_), 253, 254

Borelli, Jules, 285

Bornu, 239, 242

Botany, _see_ Flora

Bottego, V., 285, 320

Brahuis (of Beluchistan), 2

Brèvedent, Father, 67

Bright, R. G. T., 271, 286, 321

British, the, 293, 317, 318, 319 _et seq._;

in Egypt, 94, 95;

in Uganda, 154, 161, 228, 269;

in Abyssinia, 282;

in Egypt and Sudan, 293

British Association, 170, 172

British government, its indifference to African exploration, 169, 188

Browne, Wm. Geo., 88, 89, 319

Bruce, James, 71, 75 _et seq._;

and the Guinea worm, 81;

raw-flesh eating, 81, 82;

death, 86;

work in Abyssinian history, 276, 319

Brun-Rollet, 96, 99, 319

_Bucerosia_, 204, 218

Buchta, Richard, 234

Buddu, 150, 151, 156

Buffon, Comte de (naturalist), 80, 87

Bumbiri, Island of, 225, 226

Bunbury, Sir E. H., 25

Burckhardt, J. L., 92, 93, 319

Burton, Sir Richard F., 115 _et seq._, 127 _et seq._ (relations with

Speke), 128 _et seq._, 170, 171, 172, (character) 131 _et seq._;

transference to West Africa, 170;

theories of geography, 171, 231;

hesitation to take Mombasa route, 246

Burton, Lady, 172

Bushmen (pygmies), 1, 31

Busoga, 35, 152, 162, 224, 260, 303

Byzantine Empire, 30, 37, 40

Cæsar, Julius, 9

Cailliaud, Frederic, 91, 92, 289, 319

Cairo, 67 _et seq._, 75, 93

Cambridge, 93

Cambyses, 11, 12, 24

Camel, the, 21, 294

Camerons, 148

Cannibals, Cannibalism, 194, 202, 236

Cape of Good Hope, 47, 87, 134, 266

“Cape-to-Cairo,” phrase and telegraph, 228, 274

Capellen, Baroness Van, 193, 195

Carthage, 10, 15

Casabi (Italian explorer), 239

Cattle, breeds of African, 147;

abundant, 208, 295

Caucasian and Nile discovery, _prefatory note_, 19, 297, 298, 317

Caucasian, Caucasian race, 2, 14, 31, 42, 146, 148, 297, 317

Cecchi (Italian explorer), 235, 279

Centurions, Nero’s two, 20, 21, 26, 274

Ceylon, 175

Chad, Lake, 6, 15, 20, 147, 195, 199, 240

Chaillé-Long, Col., 238, 239, 320

Charles II., 125

Chemorongi Mountains, 272

Chiarini (Italian explorer), 235

Chimpanzee, the, 5, 217, 222

Chippendall, Capt., 231, 233, 234

Christianity, 34, 35,37 _et seq._, 48, 259

Church Missionary Society, 112, 113, 228, 246, 277, 281

Circassians, 11, 70, 94, 95

Citerni, C., 285

Civilisation, of Egypt, 7;

of Mesopotamia, 9;

of Greece, 14;

Himyaritic, 17

Coffee, 73

Colston, Col., 230

Congo forests, 147, 260

Congo Free State, 154

Congo River, 3, 46, 70, 193, 216, 218, 223, 228, 263, 299, 301, 316

Constantinople, 232

Consuls, 73, 76, 102, 282

Cooley, Mr. D., 114

Copper, 7, 294

Coptic language, Copts, 7, 61, 62, 70, 74

Cosmas Indicopleustes, 33

Covilhaō, Pero de, 47

Cow-dung, 211

Crocodiles, 209, 295

Crosby, Oscar T., 289

Cross River, 3

Crusades, 24, 40, 193

Cruttenden, Lieut., 115

Cyprus, 2, 9, 77

Cyrenaica, 14, 15, 16

Dahabiahs on Nile, 168, 194

“Daily Telegraph,” the, 224, 228

Dalion (Greek explorer), 19, 20, 94

Damietta, 88

Damot, 54, 57

Danākil (land, people), 3, 30, 34, 48, 52, 54, 277

Danish explorers, 68, 69

Darfur, 88, 101, 229, 230, 235 _et seq._, 294, 307

De Bono, _see_ Bono, De

Dècle, Lionel, 266, 274, 321

Defafang, extinct volcano on Nile, 210

Delmé-Radcliffe, Major C., 274, 321

Delta of Nile, _see_ Nile, delta;

_also_ 314, 315

Dem Idris, 236

Dembo River, 216

Dervishes (Mahdi’s adherents), 242

Desneval, Count of, 68, 69

Didessa, or Dabessa River, 285, 288

Dinder River, 182

Dinka people, language, country, 97, 110, 217, 297

Diogenes (Greek explorer), 22, 23, 26

Dogoru River, 216

Donaldson-Smith, 272, 273, 321

Dongola, 25, 34, 52, 71, 95

Dorvak, Father, 97

_Dracæna_ (Dragon trees), 203, 204, 218, 294

Dravidian race, 2, 42, 317

Dublin, 279

Dueru, or Dweru, Lake, 227, 251, 261, 262, 305

Dufton, H., 111

Dum Palm (_Hyphæne thebaica_), 74, 177, 253, 294

Dutch, the, 58, 69, 193, 195, 197, 284, 289, 321

Dyé, Lieut. A. H., 243, 244, 320

Dyur River, _see_ Jur

East Africa, British protectorate, 248

Edwin Arnold, Sir (_see_ Arnold)

Edwin Arnold, Mount (Ruwenzori), 227

Egypt, 2, 294;

Persian conquest of, 11, 12;

Greek, 12, 13;

Roman, 18, 19;

French, 65, 90;

once a very rainy country, 314

Egyptian government, 230

Egyptian temple, resemblance to an, 219

Egyptians, ancient, 4 _et seq._, 8;

trading relations with Equatorial Africa, 36, 43

Eichstadt (Germany, Nachtigal’s birthplace), 239

Elam, 2

Elephants, 34, 294

Elgon, Mount, 6, 35, 171, 248, 252, 271, 272, 291, 312

Elgumi, 107, 252

Elliott, Scott, Dr. G. F., _see_ Scott-Elliott

Emin (Pasha), Dr., 107, 190, 225, 236, 242, 320;

birth and early life, 250;

short-sightedness, 250;

journals, 251;

in Lotuka, 251 _et seq._;

description of birds, 255, 256;

beasts, 256;

in Bahr-al-Ghazal, 257;

the Congo forests, 258;

in Equatoria, 259 _et seq._;

journey with Stuhlmann, 263;

death, 264

Enarea, 70, 279, 290

England, English, the, 40, 45, 64, 91, 228, 245, 259, 281, 321

Ensor, Sidney, 230

Equatoria (Emin’s province), 259

Eratosthenes, 16, 23, 27

Erfurt, 61, 63

Erhardt (Rev.), 113

Eritrea, 34

Escayrac, Comte d’, 105, 106

Essex, 241

Ethiopia (_see also_ Abyssinia), 2, 48, 62, 278, 280

Ethiopians, Ethiopic language, 28, 30, 43, 280

Euphorbias, 204, 218, 220, 294

Euphrates, 9

Evatt, Col. John, 270

Eyasi, Lake, 267

Fadasi, 235

“Faidherbe,” steamship, 243

Faloro, 165, 166

Fasher, Al, 230

Fashoda, 21, 43, 243, 245, 285, 292

Fashoda, Lake of, 301, 306

Fauna, Tropical African, 5, 87, 104, 177, 209, 253 _et seq._, 294, 297

Fayūm, 7, 240

Fazokl, Fazogli, 92, 289

Febore, Théophile Le, 111

Felkin, Dr. R. W., 228, 229, 320

Felus, _see_ Khor Felus

Fergusson, Malcolm, 269, 321

Ferret, Capt., 278

Ferruginous laterite formations (Bahr-al-Ghazal), 243

Fezzan, 15, 93, 195

Fischer, Dr., 247

Flaccus, Septimus, 20

Flemings, Flemish, 40

Flora of Africa (Nileland), 133, 177, 204, 218 _et seq._, 220, 221,

253, 257, 294

Foreign Office, 103

Forests, 204, 218 _et seq._, 220, 257 _et seq._, 295;

“gallery,” 217, 219, 257

Fortnum and Mason, 99

Fowler, C. W., 273

Foxcroft, Mount, 102

France, 65, 214, 245

Fremona, 54, 57

French, the, 40, 65, 66, 70 _et seq._, 80, 87, 95, 96, 104, 105, 199,

202, 213, 224, 242, 278, 318, 321

Gala people, Galas, 3, 6, 24, 31, 34 _et seq._, 43, 53, 72, 82, 146,

148, 247, 297

Galabat, 25, 182

Galaland, 3, 147, 235, 284

Galinier, Capt., 278

Gallus, Ælius, 19

Galo River, 290

Gama, Christoforo da, 49 _et seq._

Gama, Estevaõ da, 49

Gamo, Vasco da, 46, 49

Garama, Garamentes, 20

Garstin, Sir William, 275, 321

Gazelle, Grant’s, 137

Gedge, Mr. Ernest, 248, 271

Geese, 208

Ge’ez (Ethiopic language), 62

Geographical Society, Italian (Rome), 234

Geographical Society, Khédivial, 326

Geographical Society, Paris, 114, 214

Geographical Society, Royal, 92, 103

Geology of Nile Basin, 135, 152, 243, 299, 304, 310, 311, 313 _et

seq._

George II., 75

Germany, Germans, 16, 40, 62, 69, 96, 112, 138, 200, 203, 240, 246,

247, 250, 259, 260, 263, 264, 265, 268, 277, 318, 321

Gessi Pasha, 232 _et seq._, 237, 320

Ghat, 196, 199

Gibbons, Major A. St. H., 274

Giraffe River, 111, 243, 253, 273, 291, 308

Giraffes, 294, 308

Goa, 52

Gojam, 52, 59, 70, 77, 287, 289

Gold, 8, 18

Gondar, 77

Gondokoro, 96, 115, 133, 166 _et seq._, 183, 188, 192, 232, 233, 238,

274

Gordon (Pasha), C. G., 190, 215, 225, 228, 230 _et seq._, 238, 250,

283, 320

Gorges, Major, 273

Grand, Le, 64

Grant, James Augustus, 103, 127, 131, 132 _et seq._, 142, 151, 158,

169, 188, 228, 320

Gray parrot, 217

Greece, 14

Greek Christianity, 48

Greek dynasties in Egypt, 13, 14

Greeks in Africa, 14 _et seq._, 16, 18, 43, 241, 311, 317

Gregory the Abyssinian, 61

Grogan, Ewart, 269, 274, 321

Gum (acacia), 101, 218

Gunpowder, 35

Guns, 41, (muskets) 50, 51

Gwynn, Major C. W., 287, 288, 289, 321

Habash, Hawash, Habshi, 60

Halifax, Lord, 76, 90

Hamitic languages, 280

Hamitic race, Hamites, 3, 8, 31, 42, 217, 280, 317

Hanbury-Tracey, Major, 271

Hannington, Bishop, 248, 260

Harrar, 116

Harris, Sir William C., 111, 278

Harrow School, 75

Hebrews, 7, 32

Herodotus, 15

Heuglin, Baron von, 192, 199, 200, 217, 320

Hima, Ba- (Wahuma), 141, 142 _et seq._, 146 _et seq._, 148, 164, 173,

225, 262, 297

Himyarite Arabs, 17, 33

Hippopotamus, 88, 102, 170, 177, 178, 209, 295

Hittites, 4

Hobley, C. W., 136, 162, 248, 271, 273, 321

Höhnel, Lieut. von, 248

Holland, 193

Hottentots, 134

Hungary, Hungarians, 248, 321

_Hyphæne_, Branching Palm, 74, 177, 253, 294

Iberian race, 4, 14, 43

“Ibrahim,” Lake (Kioga), 239

Ibrahim Pasha, 92, 94

Ibrahim (slave-trader), 183, 188

India, 1, 8, 17, 31, 48, 56, 58, 118, (Speke in) 126, 277, 278

Irby, Hon. Charles Leonard, 91

Ireland, Irish, 279, 321

Islam (Muhammadanism), 18, 34 _et seq._, 37 _et seq._, 73, 215

Italy, Italians, 34, 47, 61, 108, 219, 232, 234, 235, 239, 242, 284,

318, 321

Ivory, 8, 168, 202, 264

Jaba River, 53

Jackson, F. J., 248, 271

Jackson, L. C., 287

Jacobin (map publisher), 91

James II., 62

James, W. and F. L. (brothers), 283

Jemma, or Jimma (Upper Blue Nile), 52, 55, 79

Jesuit missionaries, 48, 52 _et seq._, 66 _et seq._, 90, 278

Jews, in Abyssinia, 32, 33

Ji River, 216

Jidda, 67, 77

Jimma, _see_ Jemma

John (Yohannes), Emperor of Abyssinia, 282, 283

Jordans Nullah, 120

“Jordans” (Speke’s home), 120, 172

Juba River, 53

Judaism, 38

Junker, Dr. William, 240, 241, 242, 259, 320

Jur, or Dyur, or Sue River, 101, 194, 213, 216, 222, 243, 307

Kabarega, 164

Kabirondo (country), 247, 270, 272, 303;

(people) 247;

(bay or gulf) 162, 167, 224, 248, 273, 303

Kaffa, 34, 59, 235, 279, 290, 312

Kafu River, 164

Kafuru River, 262

Kagera River (extreme Upper Victoria Nile), 227, 266, 267, 302, 303,

316

Kaka (on the White Nile), 211

Kamurasi, 164 _et seq._, 184 _et seq._, 187, 188

Kandt, Dr., 266

Karagwe, 139, 143, 147, 227

Karamojo, 272

Karuma Falls of Nile, 165, 187

Kasa, a name of several Abyssinian rulers before crowning, 281, 282

Kassalá, 179, 240

Katikiro, the, 155

Kaze, 123, 142

Keltie, Dr. J. Scott, _prefatory note_

Kenya Mountain, 28, 113, 114

Kerckhoven, Lieut. Van, 242

Khartum, 6, 16, 26, 34, 92 (founding of), 96, 102, 109, 110, 168,

182, 188, 202, 230

Khedive of Egypt, 235

Khor Felus River, 292, 308

Khor Kos River, 252, 253, 273, 291, 308

Khor Oteng River, 253

Kibali River, 240

Kich (Kity), 96, 97

Kilimanjaro, Mt., 28, 113, 114, 118, 248

Kioga, Lake, 162, 171, 189, 232, 239, 270, 284, 304

Kir (name of Nile), 284

Kircher, Father Athanasius, 51, 64

Kirk, Sir John, 154, 238

Kirkpatrick, Lake, 272

Kitara, Empire of, 147

Kivu, Lake, 171, 265, 266, 301, 304

Knoblecher, Dr. Ignatz, 97, 99, 319

Kordofan, 34, 101, 102, 200, 229, 230, 294, 310

Korosko, 80, 91, 93

Kosango River, 194

Krapf, Dr. Ludwig, 112 _et seq._, 246, 281

Kudu, the (antelope), 5, 182

Kuru River, 216

Kwania, Lake, 171, 189, 270

Lado, 236, 239, 305, 306

“Lady Alice,” the, 224, 225

Lafargue, Mons., 205, 206

Lakes, Nile, 16, 22 _et seq._, 26, 27, 44, 97, 113, 120 _et seq._

(_see_ Victoria Nyanza), 164, 170, 189, 224, 301 _et seq._

Lango country and people (Bakedi), 140 296

Latin, 63

Latitudes, Ptolemy’s, 26;

Portuguese, 59, 78;

Bruce’s, 78

Latuka (Lotuka) country and people, 107, 183, 184, 251 _et seq._, 296

Lega, Ba-, _see_ Balega, 297

Leghorn, 74

Lejean, 108, 243, 320

Lendu tribe, 297

Leon, Pedro, 51

Letorzec, 92

Libya, Libyan race, 2, 8, 149

Libyan desert, 12, 240, 294, 313 _et seq._

Lichfield, Rev. G., 228, 229

Limestone formations, 135, 311, 313

Linant de Bellefonds, Adolphe, 93, 225, 319

Linant de Bellefonds, Édouard, 225, 238, 320

Lisbon, 45, 49, 58, 64, 69

Liturgies, Abyssinian, 63

Liverpool, 195

Livingstone, Dr., 265

Lobo, Father Jeronimo, 51 _et seq._, 58, 63, 64, 69, 78, 319

Lobor Mountains, 272

Logwek, Mount, 98

Long, Chaillé-, _see_ Chaillé-Long

Lotuka, _see_ Latuka

Lotuka Mountains, 252, 291

Luajali River (affluent of Victoria Nile), 163

Ludolf (Leutholf), Hiob, 61 _et seq._, 66, 69

Lugard, Sir F. D., 269, 320

Louis XIV., 65 _et seq._, 67 _et seq._, 90

Louis XVIII., 92

Lupton (Bey), Frank, 241

Lutanzige (Albert Nyanza), 164, 170, 183

Macallister, R. W., 267

Macdonald, J. R. L., 270, 271, 272, 320

Mackay, Alexander, 228, 229

Madagascar, 300, 317

Maddox, Capt. H., 270

Madi country, people, 165, 166, 184, 274, 297

Magdala, 282

Magungo, 187, 305

Mahdi, the, 92, 181, 199, 238, 259, 284

Maizen (French explorer), 224

Makarka (Nyam-nyam), 236, 240

Malindi, 52

Malta, Maltese, 60, 103, 106, 108, 199

Malzac, De, 100, 101, 319

Mameluks, the, 88, 94

Mangbettu tribe, 217, 240

Mangles, James, 91

Manwa Sera, 140

Manyema tribe, 264

Maps, Ptolemy’s, 23, 25 _et seq._, 58;

Sicilian, 44, 72;

Vatican, 59;

Dutch and German, 59, 69;

Portuguese, 59;

French, 70 _et seq._, 91, 100;

Speke’s, 189

Marchand, Col. J., 242, 243, 243, 285, 320

Marco Polo, 24

Mareb River, 179, 283

Marinus of Tyre, 23, 24, 44

Marno, Ernst, 235, 320

Marseilles, 80, 81

Marshes, of the Nile, 21, 212, 213, 218, 243, 244, _et seq._, 294

Masai, 82, 107, 118, 137, 246, 247, 297

Masawa (Abyssinia), 27, 47, 49, 77, 282

Masawa, Mount (Elgon), 248

Mashra-ar-Rak, 192, 213, 243, 307

Maskat, Maskat Arabs, 112

Mason (Bey), 233, 320

Massaja, Monseigneur, 278

Massari (Italian explorer), 242

Matammah (on Desert Nile), 206

Maternus, Julius, 20

Matteucci, Dr. Pellegrino, 235, 242

Mauritania (Morocco, Algeria, Tunis), 39

Mauritius, 169, 174

Mayo, Earl of, 283

Mbakovia (on Lake Albert), 185, 186

Mbomu River, 241, 242, 285, 307

Mediterranean, 5, 9, 15, 77, 294, 300, 311, 313 _et seq._

Mehemet, _see_ Muhammad

Melly, Andrew, 98, 99

Menelik of Abyssinia, 282

Mengo, 225

Menzalet, Lake, 315

Merāwi (Meroe), 16, 19, 21, 25, 92, 206

Metals, Metal-working, 8

Meura, Lieut. (Belgian), 269

Mfumbiro Mountains, 145, 227, 297, 304, 312

Miami, Giovanni, 109, 166, 192, 202, 219, 241

Michel (French traveller), 286

Missionaries, 52, 54, 65, 66, 97, 228, 277, 278, 281

Mitterrützner, Herr ----, 97

Mokha, 50, 54

Mombasa, 44, 54, 113, 117, 118, 146, 246, 247, 259

Mongolian races, 317

Monkeys, 209, 255

Moon, Land of, _see_ Unyamwezi;

Mountains of, _see_ Mountains

Moore, J. E., 269, 321

Moors, Morocco, 45, 46, 49

Morch, Giacomo, 234

Morlang, Father, 97

Morongo Mountains, 272

Moscow, 240

Mountains, of the Moon, 23, 28, 114, 119, 146, 311;

of Lotuka, 252

Mpororo, 148, 302

Muhammad, 38

Muhammad Ali, 91, 94 _et seq._, 202, 283

Muhammad Granye, 35, 48 _et seq._

Muhammad Kher, 211

Muhammad Wad-el-Mek, 165, 183

Muhammadanism, _see_ Islam

Muhammadans, 49, 184

Mundy, Lieut., 267

Munza, King, 240

Munzinger (Pasha), Werner, 200, 282, 320

Murat (Abyssinian), 67

Murchison Falls, 187

Murchison Gulf, 225

Murchison, Sir Roderick, 127

Murie, Dr., 103

Murray, Mr. T. Douglas, 131, 174

Murzuk, 195, 198

Museum, British, 77, 101, 104

Mutesa, 153 _et seq._;

his cruelties, 158, 225;

name, 239

Mwanza Creek, 120, 225

Mykenæan civilisation, 14

Nachtigal, Dr., 239

Naivasha, Lake, 247, 273

Nakwai Mountains, 272

Nandi, people, country, 107, 298, 303

Napata, 20

Napier, Lord, 282

Napoleon Bonaparte, 12, 65, 90

Napoleon Gulf, 162, 302

Napoleon III., 162

Nasr (Sobat), 240, 284

Natal, 58

Neanderthaloid man, 1

Negro, the, 8 _et seq._, 31, 42, 210, 297, 317;

Nilotic, 9, 137, 211, 212, 247, 288, 291, 295;

West African, 290

Negroid races, 1, 43, 107, 183, 184, 251

Neil, O’ (Rev.), 229

Neku (King of Egypt), 10

Nepoko River, 240

Nero, 12, 20, 21, 274

Neumann, Oscar, 271, 290, 321

“New York Herald,” The, 224

Niger River, 219, 242

Nile alluvial mud (from Atbara River), 180, 315

Nile, Albertine, 233, 261, 274, 304, 305

Nile, Blue, 6, 16, 27, 33, 43, 51 _et seq._, 77 _et seq._, 92, 111,

207, 275, 283, 287, 289, 309

Nile, Cataracts of, 74, 161, 187, 207, 305

Nile, Giraffe, 111, 189, 252, 253, 272, 273, 291, 308

Nile Mountains, 97, 98, 106, 189, 212, 239, 305

Nile Quest, the, _prefatory note_, 76, 89, 104;

stops for a time at Gondokoro, 115;

Speke discovers main source of White Nile, 160;

Baker’s explorations, 176 _et seq._;

Alexandrine Tinne the romantic figure of the, 199;

Schweinfurth’s share, 203 _et seq._;

close of, 293

Nile River, 1 _et seq._, 206 _et seq._, 293 _et seq._, 313;

names of, 7, 284;

delta of, 9, 40, 298, 315;

origin of, 15, 160, 267, 298;

ultimate sources of, 22, 51 _et seq._, 55, 79, 123, 124, 160,

(farthest source of all) 267;

floods of, 56, 178, 179, 245, 275;

basin of, area, 316;

length of, 316

Nile, Valley of the, 1 _et seq._;

like Rhine, 207

Nile, Victoria, 187, 189, 232

Nile, White, 6, 20, 22, 26, 43, 95, 207 _et seq._, 275, 292, 308

Nileland, 42, 177 _et seq._, 206 _et seq._, 293 _et seq._, 296 _et

seq._;

geography of, 299 _et seq._

Nilotic Negroes, 9, 21, 137, 209, 247, 288, 291, 295

Nimule, 97, 305

No, Lake, 201, 308

Nubia, Nubians, 11, 34, 43, 69, 98, 202, 235, 236, 295, 297

Nubian Alps, 203, 313

Nudity of Negroes, 137, 211, 251, 294, 297

Nuēr tribe, 288, 291

Nyam-nyam country and people, 103, 109, 112, 192, 194, 202, 217, 236,

257 _et seq._, 297

Nyando valley, river, 136, 302

Nyanza, name of, 121, 261

Nyasa, Lake, 113, 118, 138, 300, 302

Nyenam River, 216

Nzoia River, 302

Oguelokur River, 253, 273, 291, 292, 308

Olive, the wild, 204

Oman, 112

Omo River, 285

Ostriches, 16, 254

_Otocyon_ (long-eared fox), 137

Oxen, African, 147, 295

Paez, Father Pedro, 51, 63, 78, 319

Palms, 219

Pangani, 22, 28

Papyrus, 210, 213, 218, 244, 294

Paris, 62, 71, 91, 114

Parklands, African, 182, 252, 295

Parkyns, Mansfield, 111, 319

Parrot, Gray, 217

Peake, Malcolm, 275, 321

Pearson, C. W., 228

Peney, Alfred, 104, 106 _et seq._, 320

Periplus of the Red Sea, 22

Persia, Persians, 12, 31, 67, 89

Persian Gulf, 2, 9, 48

Peters, Dr. Carl, 249

Petherick, John, 100 _et seq._, 104, 133, 163, 168, 170, 182, 192,

202, 319

Petherick, Mrs., 103, 104

Petrie, Prof. Flinders, 5, 322

Phallic worship, 155

Phœnicians, the, 9 _et seq._

Photography, 106, 135, 234

Piaggia, 217, 219, 239, 284, 320

Pibor River, 287, 288, 292

_Pistia stratiotes_, 294

Pliny, 19, 23

Pococke, Richard, 74, 75, 319

Polynesians, 317

Poncet brothers, 108

Poncet (French doctor-explorer), 61, 66, 67

Pope, Papal Court, 66, 67, 97, 278

Portal, Capt. Raymond, 270

Portal, Sir Gerald, 270

Portugal, 45

Portuguese, 8, 18, 46 _et seq._, 65 _et seq._, 279, 317, 319, 321

Potagos (Greek traveller), 241

“Prester John,” 47

Primnis (Berber), 25

Pringle, Capt., 272, 273

Prokesch von Osten, 96, 319

_Protopterus_, fish, 182

Psametik, 10, 12, 15

Ptolemy (King), 13, 33, 34

Ptolemy, Ptolemæus, Claudius, 23, 24 _et seq._, 44, 58, 114

Punt, land of, 5, 6, 10

Purdy, Col., 230

Pygmies, Congo, 1, 216, 260, 297

Pygmy races, 5, 16, 42, 281

Quartz, 152

Queen Victoria, 121

Queens, African, 144, 157 _et seq._

Racey River, 267

Radcliffe, Delmé, Ch. (Major), 274, 321

Rahad River, 182, 288

Raiūf Pasha, 238

Ravenstein, Mr. E. G., 28, 247

Rebman, John, 112 _et seq._, 246

Red Sea, 1, 22, 46, 47, 49, 73, 86, 277, 300

Reeds, 294

Rejaf, 99

Religions, Negro, 155

Rhaptum, or Rhapta, 22, 28

Rhinoceros, the, 21, 144, 294

Rhodes, Cecil, 228, 274

Rhodesia, 44

Rifles, 86

Rift Valley (Great), 247, 267, 268, 300, 301

Rift valleys of Eastern Africa, 300 _et seq._, 310

Riga, 203

Ripon Falls of Nile, 160 _et seq._, 189, 266

Roa River, 216, 308

Rōl River, 101, 216, 243, 308

Roman Catholics, 50, 61, 278

Rome, Romans, 18, 44, 58, 62, 66, 317

Rosebery Channel, 225, 302

Roseires, 288

Rosetta, 74, 87, 316

Roule, le Sieur du, 68

Royal Geographical Society, 92, 103, 118, 123, 124, 127, 162, 247

Royal Society, 63, 64

Ruanda, 145, 148

Ruchuru River, 304

Rudolf, Lake, 6, 34, 37, 148, 247, 248, 271, 272, 286, 287

Rukwa, Lake, 138, 268, 300

Rumanika, King, 143 _et seq._, 148

Rüppell, Dr. (German naturalist), 111, 319

Rusizi River, 120, 129, 171

Russegger, J. I., 111

Ruvuvu River (Kagera), 266

Ruwenzori Mountains, 23, 28, 139, 171, 186, 227, 233, 250, 260, 261,

(Alpine vegetation) 263, 269, 296, 299, 311

Ruzi River, 272, 286, 287, 292, 308

Ryllo, Father, 97

Saba (Sheba), Queen of, 32

Sabæan Arabs, 17, 31, 32

Sabatier, 96

Sagada Mountain, 51, 55, 78

Sahara Desert, 9, 15, 196, 199, 309, 315

Sailing ships, their effect on African discovery, 9

Saint, Le (French explorer), 213

Salisbury, Lake, 272

Salt, Consul Henry, 277

Samburu, Lake (_see_ Rudolf), 247

Samien Mountains, 6, 56, 278, 312

_Sanseviera_, plant, 204

Sardinian (i.e. N. Italian) travellers, 108

Saxony, Saxe Gotha (share in African exploration), 61, 63

Schuver, J. M., 284, 289

Schweinfurth, Dr. Georg, 199;

birth and nationality, 203;

starts for Suakin, 203;

describes botany of North Abyssinian terraces, 203, 204;

Berber to Khartum, 206 _et seq._;

White Nile scenery, 208 _et seq._;

Bahr-al-Ghazal, 212 _et seq._;

and the slave-trade, 214;

his achievements, 216 _et seq._;

anthropological discoveries, 217 _et seq._;

botany of Nileland, 218;

“gallery” forests, 219 _et seq._;

shares Burton’s opinions regarding Victoria Nyanza, 223

Sclater, Dr. P. L., 102

Scott-Elliott, G. F., 269, 320

Scottish, Scotland, 75, 132, 269, 321

Selim Bimbashi, 96, 319

Semitic influence, languages, 34, 49, 116, 317

Semliki River, 29, 171, 186, 233, 251, 260, 261, 305

Sennar, 52, 68, 95, 288

Sese Islands, 150, 302

Settit River (Atbara), 181

Shankala, Shangala, 72, 297

Shari River, 216, 232, 240, 242

Sharp, Mr., 274, 291

Sheko tribe, 290

Shendi, 72, 93, 99, 206

Shergold-Smith, R.N. Lieut., 228, 229

Shiluk people, country, 99, 209, 211, 212, 291, 297

Shoa, 59, 278, 282

Sicily, 44, 72, 74

Silesia, 250

Simiyu, or Shimeyu River, 267

Simonides (Greek explorer), 19, 20

Slaves, Slavery, 5, 8, 110

Slave-trade, Slave-traders, 103, 184, 190, 202, 214, 230, 235, 264

Slave-traders’ revolt, 235 _et seq._

Small-pox, 153

Snakes, 254, 256

Snay, Sheikh, 119, 140

Snow, Snow-mountains, 6, 22, 113, 114, 227, 233, 246, 247, 260, 290,

296, 297, 312

Sobat River, 28, 111, 189, 194, 234, 240, 272, 283, 284, 285, 292,

296, 297

Sofala, 18, 38

Sokotra, Island of, 16, 18, 54

Solomon, King, 32

Somali people, 3, 34, 117; language, 3

Somaliland, 3, 5 _et seq._, 48, 115 _et seq._

Somersetshire and Speke, 120, 121, 125

Sonnini de Manoncourt, 87 _et seq._

Sophia, Archduchess, 97

Spain, Spanish, 40, 45, 69, 75

Speke, John Hanning, 102, 103, 125, 320;

in Somaliland, 116 _et seq._;

starts for the Central Africa Lakes with Burton, 118 _et seq._;

discovers Victoria Nyanza, 120 _et seq._;

difference with Burton, 123 _et seq._;

returns to England, 124;

his birth and parentage, 125;

youth, 126;

character, 128, 129, 156, 170, 320;

second expedition with Grant, 133 _et seq._, 142;

in Uganda, 150 _et seq._;

returns to England, 158, 170, 171;

name in Uganda, 159;

discovers outlet of Victoria Nyanza, 160, 172;

honours, 169;

interview with King Edward, 169;

geographical theories, 171, 223;

death, 172

Speke Gulf, 224

Spekes, history of the, 125;

arms of the, 170

Stanley, Sir Henry, 29, 172, 223 _et seq._;

greatest African explorer, 172, 224;

confirms Speke, 223 _et seq._;

circumnavigates Victoria Nyanza, 225;

in Uganda, 226, 227;

mistake about Ugowe Bay, 248;

relieves Emin, 259 _et seq._;

discovers Ruwenzori, 260, 261

Stanton, E. A., 274, 321

Steamers on Nile, 96

Steudner, Dr., 192, 195, 200

Strabo, 19, 25, 27

Stroyan, Lieut., 116

Stuhlman, Dr. Franz, 263, 264, 269

Suakin, 54, 58, 93, 188, 203

Sudan, 4, 15, 96, 154, 190, 230, 235, 238, 275

Sudanese soldiers, 95, 190, 270;

races, 217, 297

Sudd, the, 5, 21, 188, 210, 274, 275, 294

Sue (Sive) River, 216, 243, 285, 307

Suez, 73, 234, 238

Suez Canal, 104, 314

Suleiman-bin-Zubeir, 235, 236 _et seq._

Switzerland, Swiss, 92, 99, 282, 321

Syphilis, 152, 153

Syria, Syrians, 2, 9, 77

Tajarra Bay, 48, 53, 57, 116

Takaze River (Upper Atbara), 181, 283, 310

Tanganyika, Lake, 113, 119, 120, 129, 171, 265, 266, 267, 299, 300

Tanguedec, Lieut., 243, 285

Tarangole, 252

Tawareq (Tonareg), Tamasheq, 20, 149, 196 _et seq._

Teleki, Count S., 248

Tellez, F. Balthasar, 64

Tertiary Epoch, the Nile during the, 313 _et seq._

Theodore, King, 182, 279, 281, 282

Thibaud, or Thibaut (French explorer and consular agent), 95, 96, 319

Thomson, Joseph, 82, 162, 217, 248, 249, 259, 260, 320

Tibet (Speke in), 126, 127

Tigre (Abyssinia), 48, 57, 66, 277, 278

Tigris River, 9

Tinne, Miss A., 192;

names, 193;

origin of Tinne family, 193;

mother and aunt, 194;

first Nile journeys, 194, 195;

death of mother and aunt, 195;

starts from Tripoli to explore Sahara and reach Bahr-al-Ghazal from

N.W., 195;

treacherously slain near Murzuk by Tawareqs, 196 _et seq._;

character and appearance, 198, 199;

on the Roll of Fame, 320

Tinne, Theodore F. S., 198

Tondi River, 216

Tonj River, 243, 307

Toro, 152, 270

Trade, Traders, 5, 96, 101, 213, 294

Tragelaph, Speke’s, 146

Trees, great forest, 220, 258

Tripoli, 77, 87, 195 _et seq._

Tsana, Lake, 6, 26 _et seq._, 33, 52, 55 _et seq._, 77 _et seq._,

309, 312

Tsetse fly, the, 35

Tu River, 273, 291

Tübingen, 112

Tunis, 77

Turkana, country, people, 6, 107, 272, 297

Turkey, 65, 73

Turks, the, 50, 53, 61, 65, 94, 95, 101, 195, 198, 318, 321

Ubangi River, 216, 241, 285

Ueberbacher, Father, 97

Uganda, _prefatory note_, 8, 228, 259;

protectorate of, 35, 154;

aristocracy of, 35, 148, 156;

country of, 119, 148, 151 _et seq._;

people of, 148, 152 _et seq._, 297;

King of, 154 _et seq._, 226;

Stanley in, 225–228;

missionaries proceed to, 228, 229;

Gordon and, 238;

route, via Busoga, 248

Uganda Railway, 248

Ugogo, 137

Ugowe Bay, 224, 248, 273

Ujiji, 119, 120, 227

Ukerewe (Bukerebe), 118, 121, 229

“Um Suf” (_Vossia_) (reeds), 244, 294

Unyamwezi, 29, 72, 114, 120 _et seq._, 138, 224, 228, 260, 267, 303;

porters, 139

Unyanyembe, 123

Unyoro, 37, 119, 147, 152, 163, 187, 270, 296

Usagara, 136

Usambara, 118

_Usnea_, lichen, 204, 221, 222

Usui, 142

Utica, 9

Valentia, Lord, 277

Vandeleur, Seymour, 270, 320

Vannutelli, L., 285, 301

Vaudet, Signor, 108

Venetians, Venice, 23, 24, 40, 41, 47, 202

Victoria Nyanza, 6, 23, 26, 35, 113, 117, 118;

discovery of, 120 _et seq._;

Burton’s depreciation of, 129;

Speke’s estimate of, 150 _et seq._, 162, 189;

Stanley’s circumnavigation, 224 _et seq._;

direct route to, from Mombasa, 246 _et seq._;

last discoveries of Stanley’s, 262;

surveyed (northern coast) by Col. J. R. L. Macdonald, 272;

by Whitehouse, Hobley, etc., 273;

general features of, 302 _et seq._

Vinci, 99

Volcanoes, 210, 227, 297, 304, 314

Wadai, 201, 240, 242

Wadi Halfa, 96, 230

_Wadi_, or river-bed, 205

Waghorn, Lieut., 276

Wakefield, Rev. Mr., 247

Wales, Welsh, 100, 321

Wansleb, Michael, 63

Waterfalls, 56, 161, 187

Watson, Col. C. M., 231, 233 _et seq._, 320

Wellby, M. S., 272, 286, 287, 321

Welle River, 109, 202, 216, 240, 241, 307

Werne, Ferdinand, 96, 210, 289, 319

Whale-headed storks, _see_ _Balæniceps rex_

Whitehouse, Commissioner B., 162, 248, 273, 321

White man, _see_ Caucasian

White Nile, _see_ Nile, White

Wilson, Capt. H. H., 292, 321

Wilson, Rev. C. T., 228, 229, 320

Wosho Mountain (North Abyssinia), 312

Würtemberg, 112, 199

Wyche, Sir Peter, 63

Yabongo River, 216

Yalo River, 101, 308

Yaman (Arabia), 17, 31, 309

Yei River, 106, 239, 308

Zambezi River, 17, 18, 300

Zanzibar, 17, 58, 112, 118, 123, 133, 134, 146, 265

Zebra, 53, 257, 294

Zeila, 52, 54, 290

Zinza, U-, Bu-, 142, 148

Zubeir Pasha, 235

Zululand, Zulus, 3, 29, 140

Transcriber’s Notes

Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made consistent when a

predominant preference was found in the original book; otherwise they

were not changed.

Several words appear multiple times with and without accent marks.

These inconsistencies have not been changed.

Simple typographical errors were corrected; unbalanced quotation

marks were remedied when the change was obvious, and otherwise left

unbalanced.

Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned between paragraphs

and outside quotations. In versions of this eBook that support

hyperlinks, the page references in the List of Illustrations lead to

the corresponding illustrations.

Page numbers in the List of Illustrations have been adjusted to match

the actual pages on which the illustrations appear in this eBook.

Transcriber added references to two maps at the end of the List of

Illustrations.

Printer’s notes indicating where to insert illustrations have been

removed from this eBook.

Footnotes, originally at the bottoms of the pages that referenced them,

have been collected, sequentially renumbered, and placed near the end

of the book, just before the Index.

The index was not checked for proper alphabetization or correct page

references.