Mr. Morris tells us that all the leading types of pattern design sprang

originally from ancestral forms which were definitely symbolic; so that

art, which we now call purely ornamental, once was made expressive of

mental ideas,--like Persian and Arabic texts in Eastern carpets and

tiles, where language and ornament are often one and the same thing.

The descent of our Alphabet itself has been traced in a direct line

back to the ancient Egyptian hieroglyphic signs; and these again were

formed into a species of alphabetical system from an earlier form of

picture or emblem writing. Even after they had been systematised into

the equivalent of an alphabet, pure symbols are used for the expression

of abstract notions, such as thirst, for instance, where a calf is

figured above the zigzag lines which signify water.

The hart drinking from a stream is a well-known early Christian symbol;

we see it in mosaic in the churches at Ravenna, with the vine and the

peacock. These last, too, seem to have been a favourite device to

carve upon marble sarcophagi, and it may well be contrasted with later

Christian taste, in its choice and treatment of symbols in the modern

graveyard; and what a strange medley of emblems meet us there!

Not less mixed is the symbolism of commerce, as exemplified in the

variations of the modern trade-mark. Æsop and the Bible are again drawn

upon, as well as Pagan mythology; but here again perhaps the less said

about art the better. It is only interesting as showing the value in

the purely practical sense a figurative device may have, something

which is distinctive and easily identifiable. It is in some sense a

survival of picture-writing or hieroglyphic, without its old Egyptian

ornamental sense and distinction of style.

Philosophy, too, in her most modern dress has recourse to symbol.

The high priest of Evolution adopted a device for the cover of his

book, showing a plant springing upwards from earth, and putting forth

leaf, bud, and finally flower; a caterpillar among the leaves, a

chrysalis pendent from the bud, and a butterfly hovering over the

open blossom. Nothing could well be more tersely, and at the same

time comprehensively, expressive of perhaps the greatest and most

far-reaching theory of our time.

Nothing, then, appears to be beyond or beneath the range of expression

in figurative design; no touch or conception of life but is made more

emphatic and comprehensible by being cast into a concrete image--a

kind of visible and picturesque logic to satisfy the eye as well as

the mind. But while vigorous design, Atlas-like, can sustain the

world of thought upon its shoulders, no breath of thought can quicken

dead art into life again. It is the true test of really vital design

that it should carry without effort its own intention, and never be

over-weighted.

This vigorous mental vitality as manifested in art is always

characteristic of the great periods. Nor is it spent in one direction

only, but, like the life-blood, circulates freely through the whole

body of art; so that the chased pattern upon a piece of armour or a

watch-plate, the design of a dress fabric or the woodcut ornaments

of a printed book, no less than the frescoed or tapestried wall and

the highly-wrought easel picture, declare the same nervous energy and

endless untiring inventiveness in beautiful and fertile design.

[Illustration]

SCULPTURE: FROM A DECORATOR’S POINT OF VIEW

An age in which the ornamental sense in art is so little understood--an

age which cares only for superficial picturesqueness or photographic

naturalism is certainly not favourable to any high development of

sculpture, which in times past has been the noblest and most expressive

of the decorative arts. We have to recognise the fact that sculpture,

in common with all art and all forms of life, lives by its capacity

of adaptability to circumstances. Perhaps she has a harder struggle

for existence than her sisters, and in the absence of zeal for great

monumental works it is perhaps not altogether surprising that she

sometimes is content to furnish toys for the drawing-room, and finds

the perpetuation of nonentities more lucrative than the pursuit of

heroic design.

That love of picturesqueness, of naturalism, too, which in our day

asserts itself in season and out of season, and, unfortunately,

often quite regardless of material or place, has left its mark on

sculpture, as in painting. Perhaps it would be truer to say that it has

revolutionised, or at least made a formidable insurrection in both;

so much so that sculpture and painting, in some instances, appear to

be striving to change places--painters sacrificing everything for an

altitude of relief which suggests departure from the canvas altogether,

and sculpture vying with painting in the imitation of textures and

scenic effects which cry out for the palette.

For in sculpture, at least in marble, despite all the resources of

tangible relief and rotundity, it is curious that naturalism of

treatment should be far less suggestive of nature than the same thing

in painting. The most elaborate imitation of textures and surfaces

(such as we see among the modern Italians) has, in the absence of local

tint, an exaggerated and, consequently, unreal look; and if there is

no strong element of design to counterbalance the elaboration--which,

indeed, is offered in its place--the failure as a work of art is

complete.

The importance of designing power in sculpture is obvious enough when

we consider that a sculptor, in designing a figure or group in the

round, has really to make, or ought to make, not one design merely, but

a whole series, in order that his work shall be expressive from every

point of view. This necessity, which is one of the difficulties, is

also one of the advantages of sculpture, and develops its capabilities

for expressive design to the utmost. Thus, while the witchery of

imitative skill may lead painters astray, in sculpture we are forced

back to what may be called the more purely artistic qualities of design

of style; terms which imply much--which comprehend, perhaps, all the

essentials of good art. Without distinction in these the craze for

imitative naturalism, or whatever we like to call it, only ends, so far

as I am aware, in attempts more or less unsuccessful to turn sculpture

into portrait painting or _tableaux vivants_.

It is very much the difference between imitation and expression, or

repetition and creation in art; and this means of course all the

difference in the world, both as regards the artist and his public.

Imitation only requires industry, but design demands inventive power.

Design might be defined as the constructive sense controlled by the

sense of beauty. One may have plenty of energy, plenty of frank

naturalism in a work, but if we have not the sense of beauty in art it

profiteth nothing.

This is of course obvious enough as applied to art with a distinctly

decorative purpose, but it seems curious that while it is taken for

granted that you cannot do without grace or charm of some sort in this

direction, as regards what may be called pictorial art, whether in

painting or sculpture, given plenty of force and fact, grace and charm

seem often quite secondary considerations, hardly missed if altogether

absent.

To me, I confess, such distinctions seem artificial and injurious to

art. A statue, or a picture, or a pattern must be an organic whole,

whether it is itself a whole or a part. It must agree with itself, or

it will agree with nothing, whether it be a frieze, a string-course, or

a bust.

And after all it is this humanising and controlling sense--this

sense of beauty, balance, decorum--this sixth or artistic sense,

in short, manifested in so many different materials, methods, and

styles, varying with climate and character, but articulate in every

tongue--which is the really permanent quality. Without it you may have

science, archæology, antiquarianism, imitation of nature--many things

very useful in their way, but not art.

[Illustration]

PAINTING AT THE PRESENT DAY: FROM A DECORATOR’S POINT OF VIEW

I will ask you to figure to yourselves an aspiring decorator, filled

with the latter-day enthusiasm for beautifying human surroundings,

and recognising a manifest, if superficial, improvement in domestic

architecture and adornment,--recognising the excellent and sympathetic

work that has been done by certain individual workers, or associated

workers, in various arts and crafts, and still undaunted by the

rapacity with which competitive commerce and the modern industrial

system seize upon and spoil their ideas, and like

----the grim wolf with privy paw

Daily devours apace, and nothing said,--

undaunted, I say, let us suppose our decorator filled with this fine

enthusiasm, so as to have almost persuaded himself that we are on the

brink of a second Renaissance; let us suppose him to turn for a moment

from his all-engrossing studies in stained glass, tapestry, _repoussée_

metal work, wood-carving, pottery, and the like, amid which he may

have become possibly oblivious of the progress of painting; to turn

from wall-hanging and wall-paper to what might be supposed to be the

crown and summit of its decoration, the wall picture, or, to speak

figuratively, from the courts of South Kensington to the galleries of

Burlington House--I mean in the time of its May blossoming.

He enters the exhibition hoping to find his aspirations stimulated, if

not satisfied, by some show of what he has been accustomed to consider

the higher aims and influences in art--primarily the search for beauty

of line, colour, and execution, where indeed they are practically

unfettered, in the technical sense, except by the four sides of a frame

(which in itself might contribute as the setting to the gem). Here,

as our decorator would reasonably suppose, these qualities would be

considered the prime necessities, the indispensable ingredients of the

work, whatever sort of pathetic, dramatic, or high poetic expression a

picture might bear.

But what are the actual evidences that meet his eye? To begin with,

he is appalled by the effect of the galleries as a whole--a number

of odd-sized painted panels in gilt mouldings, jostled together

with scarcely any reference to scale or harmony, either of subject

or colour. Here, perhaps, a life-sized human head and shoulders in

startling relief appears almost bursting through some silvery retiring

landscape distance; there tragedy and farce side by side, and on the

same wall tradition on crutches next the most naked naturalism, with

“no language but a cry,” or perhaps some piece of sentimentality

leaning, as it were, on the shoulder of the coldest academic style.

Supposing our decorator to have at least partially recovered from the

first shock of this impressionistic picture, and to have sufficient

presence of mind to go more into detail, what does he find? Much

ability certainly, much energy, much industry, but wasted for the

most part upon objects and subjects either unrewarding or repulsive,

and squandered in aimless, and therefore inartistic imitation; much

striving after instantaneous photographic effects both in figures and

landscapes--miscalled Realism; much academic learning and archæology;

much sentimental as well as melo-dramatic feeling; plenty of domestic

and quasi-historical incidents, some symptoms of war fever breaking out

in red coats; plenty of sporting and animal life--live and dead stock;

a superabundance of the personal element as in individual portraits,

although the term portrait might often be more justly claimed by

landscape painters, portraits so called being as often as not treated

as if they were landscapes, and landscapes as portraits, in these days.

In these, and such as these, then, our decorator will haply discover

the leading tendencies in modern painting. But he will reflect it

does not need that men should be specially painters to exhibit such

qualities as these. For any strong evidence of any feeling for, or

search after style, design, composition, beauty of form, beauty

of colour, or perfection of workmanship, not to speak of poetic

expression--for those qualities, in short, most peculiarly and

distinctively artistic--qualities at least inseparable from art with

any title to be called decorative--our decorator might look long and

far without finding much to cheer his drooping spirits.

He will depart from the exhibition a sadder, if not a wiser man; but

he will say to himself, “It was not always so.” He will go into our

national collection, and there he will find abundant evidence that

painting was once what he fondly hoped it might be again, at the head

of the decorative arts. Then perhaps he would go down to his house

justified, possibly to dream, and, especially if he had an impression

of Dürer’s “Melancholia” in his room, his dream might take some such

shape as this (were it possible to conceive in an emblematic spirit

such a being): The genius of modern painting would appear amidst the

ruins and relics of ancient art attired in the last Paris fashion,

leaning upon a photographic camera, with canvas and palette set, and

looking in her paint-box for an idea. Instead of Amorini should flit

around her the bats and owls of criticism, uttering discordant cries,

and one flying with a scroll on which should be inscribed, “There is no

beauty but where you would least expect to find it; there is no truth

but literalism.”

[Illustration]

ON THE STRUCTURE AND EVOLUTION OF DECORATIVE PATTERN

Man might be distinguished from other animals by his pronounced love of

ornament alone, or at least by the capacity for producing it. Evidences

of the impulse to ornament are found mixed up with his earliest traces

on the earth, and some of his most elaborate efforts have been upon

his own person. In North Borneo, for instance, I believe, to this day

a very elaborate system of tattooing is still practised by special

artists, a great part of the body being covered with elaborate patterns

of fantastic animals and other devices.

From the poetic or artistic side pattern might be defined as the

Notation of silent music. Certain decorative units are the keynotes.

Primitive patterns, like primitive music, consist of very simple

elements--of very few notes. Repetition is the chief factor in the

development of both--Repetition and Rhythm. If music was discovered

by blowing into a hollow reed, design might have begun by experiments

with a stick on the sand or soft clay. “Here is a sound,” says the

musician, “let us make music.” “Here is a surface,” says the designer,

“let us make a pattern.”

The art of pattern-making might be defined as the constructive sense

applied to surfaces. The ornamental designer is not so absolutely bound

by structural laws as the architect; but the fact that the structural

laws which govern his art are more mental than physical does not

make them less binding or less real. Designing is not mathematics or

geometry, but there appears to be a certain logic of line and colour in

design which, given certain fundamental forms and characters, demands

certain necessary sequences.

The system on which a design is built bears much the same relation to

it as the skeleton does to the outward human form, and a knowledge

of the skeleton is considered indispensable to the student of the

figure. If a pattern, for instance, be rectangular in its general plan,

however enriched by detail, the law of its fundamental construction

must be acknowledged. Every line, every form, demands a reason for

its existence. The designer commits himself to a curve; that curve

cannot remain as an isolated fact, or it would be meaningless. It

leads naturally to a counterbalancing curve, and then probably asks

to be repeated; for in dealing with curves and angles we are really

dealing with forms of a most expressive language, and one which

cannot be clearly articulated even, unless we have something to

say. The character of a pattern, then, is governed by its plan; and

although there is no limit to the diversity and variety of a design,

this organic necessity will make itself felt--much as a backbone is

a necessity to a vertebrate. Beyond this the character of a design

must be determined by the physical conditions of its execution and its

ultimate purpose.

It is obvious that a design intended to extend horizontally, as,

for instance, a running border or frieze, is naturally governed by

different laws from one intended to repeat and spread itself vertically

as well as horizontally over a large field, such as a wall-pattern.

And a design fitted for a hanging will not adapt itself to a floor

or ceiling. A pattern, a design, should at once speak for itself.

Its plan should declare its purpose, and its treatment acknowledge

the limitations and necessities--the characteristics, in short, of

the material in which it is produced, and the method by which it is

worked. Such considerations as these, we all know, are necessary to

the successful existence of a pattern, and when they are successfully

met we have only another instance of the survival of the fittest.

For it happens in practice that a pattern which precisely fits such

mechanical conditions has a longer life than one which, though perhaps

more beautiful, in some details does not adapt itself to its position

or to the necessities of reproduction so well. This applies more

particularly to patterns intended for reproduction by processes of

handicraft or manufacture, but it holds good also, though in a lesser

degree perhaps, in all applied art, and can never be left out of

account by the designer. Perfect fitness and beauty ought, of course,

always to accompany each other--as a matter of fact, other conditions

being equal, they do, as beauty is really organic; but mistakes are

sometimes made by introducing in design elements which properly belong

to other provinces of art,--for instance, when a carver or a weaver

aims at superficial _imitation_ of natural forms in his work rather

than their constructive value in design, or ornamental effect as

pattern. For pattern, in its simplest form, and regarded solely in its

abstract technical sense, apart from symbolism or imitation of natural

form, is nothing but a series of modifications in the structure and

correlation of line, such modifications being suggested or determined

by the necessities of adaptation to spaces, objects, and materials.

Taking line, then, as the basis of ornament, a simple horizontal

line forms, as it were, the primal decorative unit. Repeat it in

parallels, and we get at once the type of a whole series of the

simplest, but perhaps the most widely-used of patterns. It gives us

the banded courses of brick and marble, the reeded mouldings and

strings in architecture, the endless linear borders in ceramics;

whilst in textiles it seems, in the ever-recurring barred and striped

patterns, as if it were the Alpha and Omega of design, and that like

Hope--slightly to alter the well-known line--it

----springs eternal on the human _vest_.

But probably the same reasons for its perpetuation are found cogent

both in building and weaving--that is to say, the fundamental

structural necessities of both lend themselves naturally to that system

of varying the surface, and it seems universally pleasing to the human

race.

But we are not very far on the road of invention. Satisfactory as

bands, bars, and horizontal mouldings may be, cunningly proportioned

and nicely placed, man cannot live by parallels alone. He needs

other decorative units to make him happy. It is not known who struck

the first circle. The inventor of the compasses--the prehistoric

Giotto--remains in obscurity. Perhaps the hollow reed is again the

medium; and the circular mark which would be left by the impression

of the cut end of a reed on the soft earth might have given the circle

to design. So, perhaps, Pan is the father of the arts of design.

However this may be, with spheres all around, the idea must soon have

germinated. Man needed to look no farther than the sun and the sea to

find the genesis of pattern; nay, he had its elements in his own frame,

which, as Vitruvius demonstrates, comprises, or is comprised in, both

square and circle; and these may be said to divide the responsibility

for the whole race of pattern systems between them--to stand in the

world of design as a kind of Cœlus and Terra to an endless offspring.

The types of pattern to which they give rise are suggestive, too,

of different characteristics of race, language, and civilisation.

Broadly speaking, the square with its derived chequers, zigzags, and

diapers might almost stand as a symbol of the ornament of the northern

nations, associated as these forms are with Scandinavian and Gothic

pattern work; while, on the other hand, the circle, with its derived

scrolls and spirals, seems figurative of the greater suppleness and

sensitiveness to beauty of the Southern; and it is to ancient Greece

and to Italy that we must look for their most perfect types.

Square and angular patterns strike at once by their emphasis and rigid

logic; while the circular and curvilinear types appeal rather to sense

of grace and rhythm. For richness and intricacy we must go to where

both perhaps came from--to the home of the Arabesque--to the East--the

fountain-head of patterns, poured forth in a continual stream of

imaginative energy and inventive subtlety. While the Frank has spent

himself in the pursuit of the superficial facts of nature, and of the

portrayal of life and character, seeking energy rather than beauty,

and fact rather than ideal expression, the Asiatic has been content

to wrap himself in a mesh of delicate fancy; and if he regards nature

it is rather through a series of carefully-chosen symbolic forms that

subserve his subtle ornamental sensibility.

Returning to our primitive square and circle, we find that they not

only give us patterns and pattern systems by simply reproducing

themselves, but that, by subdivision and extension, they give us

certain offshoots which form universal decorative units, as well as

fundamental geometric plans or governing systems of the whole race of

what may be called organic patterns.

The leading forms of these offshoots from the square and circle

are--from the square--the Chequer, the Fret, the Zigzag, the Diaper.

From the circle--the Scroll, the Spiral, the Fan, the Scale, the Oval.

These are not only decorative units and linear patterns complete in

themselves, but furnish the system, scaffolding, or skeleton on which a

multitude of rich and varied designs are built; as the beautiful lines,

curves, and contours of the human figure are built upon the strong and

symmetric framework of the bones, and form together an organic whole.

These forms, too,--these decorative units which are geometrically

evolved from the square and the circle,--are also constructive in their

origin. The simplest of all patterns arise naturally from certain

necessities of construction. Even the linear (alternating) arrangement,

produced by the ordinary method of laying bricks, is in some sort a

pattern, as well as those more specialised methods in masonry such as

opus reticulatum and herring-bone work, for instance. The lattice work

of the joiner and engineer also; the patterns formed by the plaiting

of grass or rushes in matting, which give us the chequer; the spirals

in the twisting of the strands of a rope, and the radiating ribs of a

fan,--these all may be looked upon as the sources of our decorative

units, and have their prototypes in the natural world, where, above

all, we find constructive strength united with beauty and fitness,

governed by adaptability to circumstance.

The Fan, indeed, holds universal sway, not only in the hands of

women, but in the worlds both of nature and design.[1] In structure

and system the Fan seems to be one of the first principles of organic

construction, and is illustrated everywhere--from a bird’s wing to

a vaulted ceiling, and in decorative art spreads from the Greek

Anthemion to the Japanese screen. The Japanese artist is never tired

of demonstrating its fitness for every ornamental purpose. It is his

dearest decorative unit, and he certainly proves himself a master in

its use.[2]

The claims of decorative art · 第 2 / 12 段