PIES AND PUDDINGS.
In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made in the same
way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception that we cannot use lard or
dripping in making our pastry. Nor are we allowed to use suet in making
crust for puddings. It would have been quite impossible to have given even
one quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, and we must
refer those who wish for information on this subject to "Cassell's Shilling
Cookery," where will be found a very complete list, but which would have
occupied the whole of the space which we have devoted to recipes where
vegetarian cookery, as a rule, _differs_ from the ordinary.
We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to the two points
we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry without lard or dripping, and
pudding crust without suet. The first of these two points causes no
difficulty whatever, as the best pastry, especially that known as puff
paste, is invariably made with butter only as the fatty element; but there
is one point we must not overlook.
Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use the animal
products--butter, milk, cream, and eggs--and those who do not. This latter
class contains, probably, the most respected members of the vegetarian
body, as it will always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid
by all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to make pastry,
butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We fear we cannot tell them
how to make good puff paste; but "Necessity is the mother of invention,"
and naturally olive oil must supply the place of butter.
PASTRY WITHOUT BUTTER.--We will describe how to make a small quantity,
which is always best when we make experiments. Take half a pound of the
best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a salt-spoonful of
baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, and work the
oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a small piece
of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff paste. Next
add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; roll it out
and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the method used
in making high-class pastry.
We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is used more oil may
be added.
We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature than water,
consequently the minute particles of oil become partially solid. Now take
the paste, roll it out, and give it three turns; roll it out again, give it
three more turns, and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a
quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be careful to
flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By this means we get the
pastry in thin layers, with minute air bubbles between them, and this will
cause the pastry to rise. If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the
last time, cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the
pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a very cold
place.
This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be utilised for
puddings, in which latter case we would recommend the addition of a little
more baking-powder, and to every pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of
very fine bread-crumbs. These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine
sieve.
PASTRY WITH BUTTER.--Good puff paste is made by taking equal quantities of
butter and flour--say a pound of each--the yolk of one egg, a pinch of
salt, while the water used is acidulated with lemon-juice. For the
manipulation of this pastry we must refer those who do not know how to make
it to other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. In
making ordinary paste we must use less butter; and when we use considerably
less butter, if we wish the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder.
The quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many persons make their
own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend any better than the recipe given
in the last chapter, viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half
of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A great
deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna flour is much
more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably superior. What limit
we can assign to the quantity of butter used it is impossible to say. A
quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of
baking-powder, will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the result
is not altogether satisfactory.
PUDDINGS.--We next come to the very large class of puddings in which suet
is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case in point. The best
substitute for suet, of course, is butter or oil; a plum pudding, however,
made without suet, would undoubtedly be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must
use butter, bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to
give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients.
Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum pudding, and no flour, in
which case, of course, a very considerable number of eggs must be used or
else the pudding will break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being
used as a substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the
oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted English
prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, and it has often been
remarked by high-class authorities that really pure butter ought to be the
same. We fear, however, that purity in food is the exception rather than
the rule, as at no period of this country's history has the crime of
adulteration been so rampant as in the present day.
Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. Too often
adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. Steps have been taken in
recent years to put a stop to this universal system of fraud, more
especially in connection with butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the
"Margarine Act" we believe that this country would be richer and happier,
and without doubt more healthy.
In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, cabinet pudding,
there is no difference whatever in vegetarian cookery. It would be quite
impossible to make any of these puddings without eggs, and when eggs are
used we may take for granted that butter is allowed also.
We have, throughout, called particular attention to the importance of
appearances. In the case of all puddings made with eggs and baked in a
dish, it is a very great improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg,
and to beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar.
When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white froth, and let it
set by placing it in a slack oven for two or three minutes. Whether the
pudding is served hot or cold, the result is the same. An otherwise plain
and somewhat common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the
only extra expense being a little _trouble_.
We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: "Whatsoever thy hand
findeth to do, do it with thy might."
INDEX.
Allemande Sauce, 44
Almond Cheesecakes, 170
Fritters, 119
Sauce, 44
Sauce, Clear, 45
Soup, 23
Apple Cheesecakes, 170
Custard, 168
Fritters, 118 Jam, 161
Jelly, 161
Sauce, 45
Soup, 24
Apples, Stewed, 172
Apricot Fritters, 119
Jam, 164
Jelly, 163
Apricots Tinned, 155
with Cream, 156
Aromatic Herbs, 32
Arrowroot Sauce, 45
Artichokes, French, 137
a la Provencale, 137
Boiled, 137
Fried, 137
Salad, 102
Artichoke, Jerusalem, 137
Fried, 138
Mashed, 138
Sauce, 45
Soup, 24
Asparagus and Eggs, 85
Boiled, 139
Salad, 101
Sauce, 45
Soup, 24
Tinned, 153
Ayoli, 115
Baking-Powder, 180
Banana Fritters, 119
Barley and Rice Porridge, 75
Soup, 25
Batter for Fritters, 116
Beans, Broad, 139
a la Bourgeoise, 139
a la Poulette, 139
Mashed, 139
Salad, 103
Soup, 27
Beans, French, 139
Pudding, 140
Salad, 102
Soup, 27
Tinned, 154
Beans, Haricot, 131
Salad, 103
Soup, Red, 26
Soup, White, 26
Beetroot Salad, 102
Soup, 26
Beurre Noir, 48
Blackberry Jam, 164
Jelly, 158
Black Butter, 48
and Eggs, 86
Black Currant Jam, 164
Jelly, 160
Sauce, 45
Bread, 180
and Milk, 75
Potato, 129
Sauce, 45
Whole-Meal, 180
Brocoli, 141
Greens, 141
Brown Mushroom Sauce, 55
Onion Sauce, 55
Brown Roux, 22
Thickening, 22
Brussels Sprouts, 141
Tinned, 154
Butter, Black, 48
Maitre d'hotel, 53
Melted, 48
Oiled, 48
Sauce, 46
Cabbage, 142
and Cream, 143
and Rice, 63
large White, 142
Red, 143
Soup, 27
Cakes, 177
Parsnip, 147
Pound, 179
Caper Sauce, 49
Carrot Jam, 164
Sauce, 49
Soup, 27
Carrots, Boiled, 143
Fried, 144
Mashed, 144
Tinned, 154
Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce, 145
au gratin, 144
Boiled, 144
Salad, 104
Sauce, 49
Soup, 28
Casseroles, 64
Celery and Eggs, 85
Salad, 103
Sauce, 49
Soup, 29
Stewed, 145
Cheesecakes, 165-168
Almond, 170
Apple, 170
from Curds, 169
Orange, 170
Potato, 169
Cheese and Eggs, 89
and Fried Bread, 113
and Rice, 63
Devilled, 114
Fritters, 117
Cheese Ramequins, 114
Sandwiches, 107
Savoury, 113
Souffle, 92
Soup, 29
Stewed, 114
Straws, 114
Toasted, 114
Cherry Sauce, 49
Soup, 29
Cherries, Stewed, 174
Chestnut Sauce, 49
Soup, 30
Chestnuts and Macaroni, 72
Chocolate Cream, 166
Fritters, 119
Chutney Sauce, 53
Cinnamon Sauce, 49
Clear Soup, 30
Cocoanut Sauce, 49
Soup, 31
Coffee Cream, 166
Fritters, 119
Cottage Soup, 30
Cream and Macaroni, 73
Cheese Sandwiches, 107
Chocolate, 166
Coffee, 166
Fritters, 120
Lemon, 166
Maraschino, 166
Orange, 166
Pistachio, 167
Strawberry, 167
Vanilla, 166
Creams, 165
Croquettes, Potato, 127
Rice, 65
Cucumber and Eggs, 88
Salad, 102
Sauce, 49
Currant Sauce, Black, 50
Red, 50
Black, Jam, 164
Black, Jelly, 160
Red, Jam, 164
Red, Jelly, 161
Curried Eggs, 82
Lentils, 136
Rice 63
Vegetables, 151
Curry Sauce, 50
Custard, Apple, 168
Cheap, 168
Fritters, 119
Custards, 167
Cutlets, Potato, 127
Damson Jam, 164
Jelly, 162
Dandelion Salad, 103
Devilled Cheese, 114
Eggs, 82
Dutch Sauce, 51
Green, 51
Egg Balls, 83
Forcemeat, 83
Salad, 99
Sandwiches, 106
Sauce, 51
Toast, 85
Eggs, 78
a la bonne femme, 8
a la Dauphine, 85
a la tripe, 83
and Asparagus, 85
Black Butter, 86
Celery, 85
Cheese, 89
Cucumber, 88
Garlic, 86
Mushrooms, 86
Onions, 87
Potatoes, 87
Rice, 66
Sauce Robert, 87
Sorrel, 87
Spinach, 85
Turnip-tops, 85
au gratin, 84
Boiled, 78
Hard, 81
Broiled, 87
Buttered, 88
Curried, 82
Devilled, 82
Fried, 80
in Sunshine, 88
Little, 89
Poached, 81
Scrambled, 88
To Break, 80
Endive, 145
Salad, 100
Soup, 31
English Salad, 97
Extract of Spinach, 25
Fennel Sauce, 51
Flageolets, 133
Tinned, 154
Fond d'Artichokes, 155
Forcemeat of Egg, 83
of Mushroom, 110
Frangipane Fritters, 120
French Beans, 139
Bean Salad, 102
Soup, 27
Pudding, 140
Salad, 97
Fritters, 116
Almond, 119
Apple, 118
Apricot, 119
Banana, 119
Batter for, 116
Cheese, 117
Chocolate, 119
Coffee, 119
Cream, 120
Custard, 119
Frangipane, 120
Game, 117
German, 121
Ginger and Rice, 121
Hominy, 117
Mushroom, 116
Orange, 120
Pine Apple, 120
Peach, 120
Potato, 120
Rice, 121
Sage and Onion, 118
Spinach, 118
Sweet, 118
Tomato, 117
Vanilla, 119
Fruit, Compote of, 171
Soup, 31
Stewed, 171
Fruits, Bottled, 157
Tinned, 155
Frumenty, 76
Game Fritters, 117
Garlic and Eggs, 86
Garnish of Eggs, 89
German Fritters, 121
Salad, 100
Sauce, 51
Ginger Sauce, 52
Gooseberry Sauce, 52
Gooseberries, Stewed, 173
Green Bean Soup, 27
Dutch Sauce, 51
Mayonnaise Sauce, 54
Pea Soup, Dried, 37
Fresh, 38
Hare Soup, 32
Haricot Beans, 131
Bean Salad, 103
Soup, Red, 26
White, 26
Herbaceous Mixture, 32
Herbs, Aromatic, 32
Hominy, 76
Fried, 76
Fritters, 117
Hop Salad, 104
Horseradish Sauce, 52
Hotch Potch, 32
Ice Cream, 176
Lemon Water, 176
Orange Water, 176
Water Fruit, 177
Ices, 174
from Fresh Fruit, 176
from Jams, 176
Indian Pickle Sauce, 53
Sandwiches, 106
Italian Salad, 104
Sauce, 53
Jam Apple, 161
Apricot, 164
Blackberry, 164
Black Currant, 164
Carrot, 164
Damson, 164
Gooseberry, 164
Greengage, 164
Plum, 164
Raspberry, 164
Red Currant, 164
Rhubarb, 164
Strawberry, 164
Vegetable Marrow, 164
Jams, 163
Jardiniere Soup, 33
Jellies, 158
Jelly, Apple, 161
Apricot, 163
Blackberry, 158
Black Currant, 160
Damson, 162
Lemon, 159
Mulberry, 163
Orange, 160
Pine Apple, 162
Raspberry, 161
Red Currant, 161
Julienne Soup, 33
Kale, Scotch, 148
Sea, 148
Leek Soup, 33
Leeks, Stewed, 145
Welsh Porridge, 146
Lemon Cream, 166
Jelly, 159
Water, Ice, 176
Lentil Porridge, 75
Puree a la Soubise, 34
Soup, 33
Lentils, 135
a la a Provencale, 136
Boiled, 136
Curried, 136
Lettuce Salad, 97
Lettuces, Stewed, 146
with Peas, 146
Macaroni, 67
a la Reine, 69
and Cheese, 68
Chestnuts, 72
Cream, 73
Eggs, 69
Tomatoes, 72
as an Ornament, 70
au gratin, 69
Italian Fashion, 68
Nudels, 71
Savoury, 72
Scolloped, 70
Soup, Clear, 34
Soup, Thick, 34
Timbale of, 70
Macedoines, 155
Maitre d'hotel Sauce, 53
Butter, 53
Mango Chutney Sauce, 53
Maraschino Cream, 166
Mayonnaise Salad, 98
Sauce, 53
Sauce, Green, 54
Melon Salad, 105
Milk Porridge, 75
Soup, 35
Toast, 77
Mint Sauce, 54
Mock Turtle Soup, 35
Mulberry Jelly, 163
Mulligatawny Soup, 35
Mushroom, Essence of, 44
Forcemeat, 110
Fritters, 116
Pie, 110
Cold, 110
Pudding, 111
Puree of, 55
Sandwiches, 106
Sauce, 54
Brown, 55
Mushrooms, 108
a la Bordelaise, 110
a la Provencale, 110
and Eggs, 86
au gratin, 109
Fried, 109
Plain, 108
Mustard Sauce, 55
Mustard and Cress, 104
Sandwiches, 106
Nalesnikis, 116
Nettles, To Boil, 151
Oatmeal Porridge, 73
Oiled Butter, 48
Omelet au Kirsch, 95
au Rhum, 95
Cheese, 92
Fine Herbs, 92
Onion, 92
Plain, 91
Potato, 92
Potato, Sweet, 92
Souffle, 93
Sweet, 94
Vegetable, 95
with Jam, 94
Omelets, 89
Onion Omelet, 92
Salad, 104
Sauce, 55
Brown, 55
Soup, 35
Brown, 36
Onions and Eggs, 87
Baked, 146
Plain, 146
Stewed, 147
Stuffed, 115
Orange Cheesecakes, 170
Cream, 166
Fritters, 120
Jelly, 160
Sauce, 56
Water Ice, 176
Ox-tail Soup, 36
Palestine Soup, 24
Pancakes, Polish, 116
Parsley Sauce, 56
To Blanch, 26
Parsnip Cake, 147
Soup, 36
Parsnips, 147
Fried, 147
Mashed, 147
Paste for Pies, 184.
Puddings, 185.
without Butter, 183.
Peach Fritters, 120
Peaches, Tinned, 156
Peaches with Cream, 156
Pea Soup, Dried Green, 37
Split Peas, 37
Fresh Green, 38
Peas, Boiled, 148
Brose, 134
Dried, 133
Dried Green with Cream, 135
Dried whole Green, 134
Green, 148
Pudding, 134
Stewed, 148
Tinned, 153
Pear Soup, 37
Pears, Stewed, 173
Tinned, 156
Pie, Mushroom, 110
Mushroom, Cold, 111
Potato, 112
Pumpkin, 113
Pies and Puddings, General, 183
Paste for, 184.
Pine Apple Fritters, 120
Ice, 177
Jelly, 162
Sauce, 56
Tinned, 156
Piroski Sernikis, 116
Pistachio Cream, 167
Plum Jam, 164
Sauce, 56
Plums, Stewed, 174
Polenta, 115
Poached Eggs, 81
Poivrade Sauce, 57
Polish Pancakes, 116
Porridge, Barley and Rice, 75
Milk, 75
Lentil, 75
Oatmeal, 73
Sago, 77
Whole Meal, 75
Potato Balls, 127
Biscuits, 129
Border, 128
Bread, 129
Cake, 129
Cheese, 130
Cheesecake, 169
Chips, 126
Croquettes, 127
Fritters, 120
Omelet, 92
Omelet, Sweet, 92
Ribbon, 126
Salad, 101
Soup, 38
Potatoes and Eggs, 87
a la Barigoule, 130
a la Lyonnaise, 131
a la Maitre d'hotel, 127
a la Provencale, 131
Baked, 125
Boiled, 123
Broiled, 131
Fried, 126
Mashed, 125
New, 127
Saute, 126
Steamed, 124
Pound Cake, 179
Prune Sauce, 57
Prunes, Stewed, 173
Pudding, Cheese, 114
French Bean, 140
Mushroom, 111
Peas, 134
Pumpkin, 113
Puddings, 182
Pumpkin a la Parmesane, 115
Pie, 113
Pudding, 113
Soup, 39
Puree, Endive, 31
Lentils, 34
Mushroom, 55
of Beans, Red, 26,
of Beans, White, 26
of Chestnuts, 30
Sorrel, 58
Rarebit, Welsh, 115
Raspberry Ice, 176
Jam, 164
Jelly, 161
Sauce, 57
Ramequins, Cheese, 114
Ratafia Sauce, 57
Ravigotte Sauce, 57
Red Currant Jam, 164
Jelly, 161
Sauce, 50
Red Haricot Bean Soup, 26
Rhubarb Soup, 39
Stewed, 173
Rice, 60
and Barley Porridge, 75
and Cabbage, 63
and Cheese, 63
and Eggs, 66
and Ginger Fritters, 121
and Tomatoes, 66
Boiled, 61
Border, 64
Croquettes, 65
Curried, 63
Fritters, 121
Soup, 39
Soup a la Royale, 39
Risotto, 62
Robert Sauce, 58
Roux, Brown, 22
White, 22
Sage and Onion Fritters, 118
Sago Porridge, 77
Soup, 40
Salad, Artichoke, 102
Asparagus, 101
Bean, Broad, 103
Bean, Haricot, 103
Beetroot, 102
Cauliflower, 104
Celery, 103
Cucumber, 102
Dandelion, 103
Egg, 99
Endive, 100
English, 97
French, 97
French Beans, 102
German, 100
Hop, 104
Italian, 104
Mayonnaise, 98
Melon, 105
Mixed, 98
Mustard and Cress, 104
Onion, 104
Potato, 101
Salsify, 101
Sweet, 105
Tomato, 99
Water-cress, 103
Salads, 96
Salsify, Boiled, 151
Salad, 101
Sandwiches, 105
Cheese, 107
Cream Cheese, 107
Egg, 106
Indian, 106
Mushroom, 106
Mustard and Cress, 106
Tomato, 105
Sauce, Allemande, 44
Almond, 44
Almond, Clear, 45
Apple, 45
Arrowroot, 45
Artichoke, 45
Asparagus, 45
Bread, 45
Butter, 46
Butter, Black, 48
Butter, Oiled, 48
Caper, 49
Carrot, 49
Cauliflower, 49
Celery, 49
Cherry, 49
Chestnut, 49
Cinnamon, 49
Cocoa-nut, 49
Cucumber, 49
Currant, Black, 50
Currant, Red, 50
Curry, 50
Dutch, 51
Green, 51
Egg, 51
Fennel, 51
German Sweet, 51
Ginger, 52
Gooseberry, 52
Horseradish, 52
Indian Pickle, 53
Italian, 53
Maitre d'hotel, 53
Mango Chutney, 53
Mayonnaise, 53
Green, 54
Mint, 54
Mushroom, 54
Brown, 55
Puree, 55
Mustard, 55
Onion, 55
Brown, 55
Orange Cream, 56
Parsley, 56
Pine Apple, 56
Plum, 56
Poivrade, 57
Prune, 57
Radish, 57
Raspberry, 57
Ratafia, 57
Ravigotte, 57
Robert, 58
Sorrel, 58
Soubise, 58
Sweet, 58
Tarragon, 58
Tartar, 58
Tomato, 59
Truffle, 59
Vanilla, 59
White, 59
Sauces, 44
Savoury Rice, 66
Scotch Broth, 40
Kale, 148
Sea Kale, 148
Soup, 40
Sorrel Sauce, 58
Soup, 40
Soubise Sauce, 58
Souffle, Cheese, 92
Omelet, 93
Soup, Almond, 23
Apple, 24
Artichoke, 24
Asparagus, 24
Barley, 25
Bean, French, 27
Green, 27
Haricot, Red, 26
Haricot, White 26
Beetroot, 26
Cabbage, 27
Carrot, 27
Cauliflower, 28
Celery, 29
Cheese, 29
Cherry, 29
Chestnut, 30
Clear, 30
Cocoanut, 31
Cottage, 30
Endive, 31
Fruit, 31
Green Pea, Dried, 37
Fresh, 38
Hare, 32
Hotch Potch, 32
Jardiniere, 33
Julienne, 33
Leek, 33
Lentil, 33
Lentil a la Soubise, 34
Macaroni, Clear, 34
Thick, 34
Milk, 35
Mock Turtle, 35
Mulligatawny, 35
Onion, 35
Brown, 36
Ox-tail, 36
Palestine, 24
Parsnip, 36
Pear, 37
Pea, Split, 37
Green, Dried, 37
Fresh, 38
Potato, 38
Pumpkin, 39
Rhubarb, 39
Rice, 39
a la Royale, 39
Sago, 40
Scotch Broth, 40
Sea Kale, 40
Sorrel, 40
Spinach, 41
Tapioca, 41
Tomato, 41
Turnip, 42
Vegetable, 33
Marrow, 42
Vermicelli, 42
White, 42
White, 43
Soups, 23
General Instructions, 17
Sparghetti, 67
Spinach, 149
and Eggs, 85
Extract of, 25
Fritters, 118
Soup, 41
Tinned, 154
Stock, 21
Strawberry Cream, 167
Ice, 176
Jam, 164
Sweet Fritters, 118
Omelet, 94
Salads, 105
Sauce, 58
German, 51
Tagliatelli, 73
Tapioca Soup, 41
Tarragon Sauce, 58
Tartar Sauce, 58
Thickening, Brown, 22
White, 22
Timbale of Macaroni, 70
Toast, Egg, 85
Milk, 77
Tomato Fritters, 117
Pie, 112
Salad, 99
Sandwiches, 105
Sauce, 59
Soup, 41
Tomatoes and Macaroni, 72
and Rice, 66
au Gratin, 111
Baked, 111
Fried, 111
Grilled, 111
Stewed, 111
Truffle Sauce, 59
Turnip Soup, 42
-tops, 151
and Eggs, 85
Turnips, Boiled, 150
Mashed, 150
Ornamental, 150
Tinned, 155
Vanilla Cream, 166
Fritters, 119
Ice, 176
Sauce, 59
Vegetable Curry, 151
Marrow, 149
Soup, 42
Stuffed, 149
Omelet, 95
Soup, 42
Vegetables, Fresh, 137
Preserved, 152
Substantial, 122
Vermicelli Soup, 42
Thick, 42
Water-cress Salad, 103
Welsh Porridge, 146
Rarebit, 115
White Haricot Bean Salad, 103
Soup, 26
Roux, 22
Sauce, 59
Soup, 43
Thickening, 22
Whole-meal Bread, 180
Porridge, 75
Zucchetti Farcis, 115
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