CHAPTER V

CORPSE-CANDLES AND THE TOILI

"A vague presentiment of his pending doom

Like ghostly footsteps in a vacant room

Haunted him day and night."

When St. David of blessed memory lay dying his soul was greatly troubled

by the thought of his people, who would soon be bereft of his pious care

and exhortations. He remembered the Celtic character, apt to be lifted

to heights of enthusiastic piety by any passing influence of oratory,

and, alas! prone to sink to depths of indifference, or even scepticism,

when that influence was removed. So the Saint prayed very earnestly for

his flock that some special sign of divine assistance might be granted

them. Tradition says that his prayer was heard, and a promise given that

henceforth no one in the good Archbishop's diocese should die without

receiving previous intimation of his end, and so might be prepared. The

warning was to be a light proceeding from the person's dwelling to the

place where he should be buried, following exactly the road which the

funeral would afterwards take. This light, visible a few days before

death, is the _canwyll corph_ (corpse-candle).

Such is the legend generally supposed to be the foundation of a very

ancient belief, though a less common version is given by Howells in his

"Cambrian Superstitions" (1831), where he says: "The reason of their

(the candles) appearing is generally attributed to a Bishop of St.

David's, a martyr, who in olden days, while burning, prayed that they

might be seen in Wales (some say in his diocese only) before a person's

death, that they might testify that he had died a martyr...." The Bishop

alluded to here was Ferrars, who was burnt at Carmarthen under the

persecutions in Queen Mary's reign.

But whatever the origin of the _canwyll_ belief, it was once almost

universal in some parts of Wales, and even in these sceptical days one

sometimes comes across it in out-of-the-way corners of the Principality.

In Brand's "Antiquities" we read: "Corpse Candles, says Grose, are very

common appearances in the counties of Cardigan, Carmarthen, and

Pembroke, and also in some other parts of Wales; they are called candles

from their resemblance, not to the body of a candle, but the fire,

because that fire, says the honest Welshman, Mr. Davies, in a letter to

Mr. Baxter, doth as much resemble material candle-light as eggs do eggs;

saving that in their journey these candles are sometimes visible and

sometimes disappear, especially if any one comes near them or in the

way to meet them. On these occasions they vanish, but presently reappear

behind the observer and _hold their Corpse_ (_sic_). If a little candle

is seen, of a pale bluish colour, then follows the Corpse of some

Infant, if a larger one, then the Corpse of some one come to age.... If

two Candles come from different places and meet, two Corpses will do the

same, and if any of these Candles be seen to turn aside through some

bypath leading to the church the following Corpses will be found to take

exactly the same way. Sometimes these Candles point out the place where

people will sicken and die...."

The "honest Welshman" above quoted by Grose was the Rev. J. Davies of

Geneurglyn, and the whole of his letter, which Richard Baxter published

in his "World of Spirits" (1656), is most interesting to read. He

continues: "Now let us fall to evidence. Being about the age of fifteen,

dwelling at Llanylar, late at night, some neighbours saw one of these

candles hovering up and down along the river-bank, until they were weary

of beholding it; at last they left it so, and went to bed. A few weeks

after came a proper damsel from Montgomeryshire to see her friends, who

dwelt on the other side of the river Istwith, and thought to ford the

river at that very place where the light was seen, being dissuaded by

some lookers-on (some, it is most likely, of those who saw the light) to

adventure on the water, which was high by reason of a flood; she walked

up and down the river-bank, even where, and ever as the aforesaid candle

did, waiting for the falling of the water, which at last she took, but

too soon for her, for she was drowned therein.... Some thirty or forty

years since, my wife's sister being nurse to Baronet Rudd's three eldest

children, and (the Lady mistress being dead) the Lady-comptroller of the

house going late into the chamber where the maid-servants lay, saw no

less than five of these lights together. It happened a while after this,

that the chamber being newly plastered and a grate of coal-fire therein

kindled to hasten the drying of the plaster, that five of the

maid-servants went to bed as they were wont, but as it fell out, too

soon, for in the morning they were all dead, being suffocated in their

sleep by the steam of the newly tempered lime and coal. This was at

Llangathen in Carmarthenshire."

I have always been much interested in this story, as the house where the

accident happened two hundred and fifty years ago is very well known to

me in these days. And indeed the tradition of the five smothered maids

is still extant; for the tale, substantially as related by Mr. Davies,

was told me only a few years ago by an old woman living in Llangathen

village, who had been many years in service in the house referred to by

Baxter's reverend correspondent, though the Rudd family has long

disappeared, and the place changed owners many times since. As to

"Llanylar" on the river "Istwith" it is a village not so far from my own

home in Cardiganshire; and quite lately a clergyman, born and brought up

in that district, informed me that when he was a boy--and he is not

old--stories of "corpse-candles" abounded there, and belief in them was

very common.

To return to "Cambrian Superstitions" again, its author relates what he

seems to think a well-authenticated instance of a _canwyll's_

appearance, as follows. "Some years ago (he was writing in 1831), when

the coach which runs from Llandilo to Carmarthen was passing by Golden

Grove (the property of the noble Earl Cawdor), three corpse-candles were

observed on the surface of the water, gliding down the stream which runs

near the road; all the passengers beheld them, and it is related that a

few days after, some men were crossing the river near there in a

coracle, but one of them expressed his fear at venturing, as the river

was flooded, and remained behind; the other three possessing less

discernment, ventured, and when about the middle of the river,

lamentable to relate, their frail conveyance sank through the weight

that was in it, and they were drowned."

Writing in 1888 of Pembrokeshire, Mr. Edward Laws, in "Little England

beyond Wales," says: "It would be by no means difficult to find a score

of persons who are fully persuaded that they themselves have been

favoured with a vision of the mysterious lights," adding, "St. Daniel's

cemetery, Pembroke, is a likely place for 'fetch-candles.'"

Although the weird privilege was supposed to belong entirely to St.

David's diocese, yet some writers mention the belief as well known in

North Wales. George Borrow, in "Wild Wales," describes in Chapter XI. a

conversation he had on the subject with a woman who lived near

Llangollen, and had herself seen a _canwyll corph_. And in our days, Sir

John Rees writes in "Celtic Folk-lore": "It is hard to guess why it was

assumed that the _canwyll corph_ was unknown in other parts of Wales....

I have myself heard of them being seen in Anglesey." But earlier authors

nearly always assign South Wales as the real home of the tradition.

Meyrick, in his "History of Cardiganshire" (1810), speaks of St. David

obtaining the privilege for his diocese, adding: "The _canwyll corph_ is

bright or pale according to the age of the person, and if the candle is

seen to turn out of the path that leads to the church, the corpse will

do so likewise."

Scientifically approached, the corpse-candle is merely the well-known

_ignis fatuus_ (will-o'-the-wisp or marsh light) occasionally seen to

quiver and flicker at night over the surface of bog and swamp. Shelley

writes:

"As a fen-fire's beam

On a sluggish stream

Gleams dimly."

Often appearing in the distance like a carried lantern, these lights

have been known to lure unwary travellers from a safe path to insecurity

and danger. Scott's name for the will-o'-the-wisp is Friar Rush's

lantern:

"Better we had through mire and bush

Been lantern-led by Friar Rush."

In the same connection, Milton in "L'Allegro" also mentions the "friar's

lantern."

But though one may have an open mind on the subject of the _canwyll

corph_, yet it does not seem as if the _ignis fatuus_ explanation covers

quite all the ground suggested in the various instances of the

_canwyll's_ appearance described in the following notes.

All authorities agree that the most characteristic feature of the

corpse-candle's appearance is, that it invariably follows the exact line

that will be taken by the funeral procession. This is well illustrated

by an instance that occurred some years ago at a house in Cardiganshire.

Instead of going straight along the drive, the light was seen to flicker

down some steps and round the garden pond; and when the death occurred

the drive was partly broken up under repair, and the coffin had to be

taken the way indicated by the corpse-candle. At another place in the

same county, tradition says that before a death takes place there, a

corpse-light is always seen to emerge from the neighbouring churchyard,

and pass quivering up the drive towards the house. Another story from

Carmarthenshire relates how shortly before a death in the family owning

a certain house, the woman living at the lodge saw a pale light come

down the drive one evening. It pursued its way as far as the lodge,

where it hovered a few moments, then through the gates, and out on the

road, where it stopped again for several minutes under some trees. On

the day of the funeral the hearse, for an unexpected reason, was pulled

up for some time at the exact spot where the _canwyll_ had halted.

The following story, which was related by a lady of cultured mind and

much common sense, has always seemed to me one of the most interesting

of its kind that I have ever heard. Whether it was a case of _canwyll

corph_ or not must be left to my readers to determine, but it is

certainly hard to account for the incident in any ordinary way:

My friend, Miss Morris, lived when she was a young girl in Wales, and

her father's house stood on a steep hill-side, with the village church

just below, a short walk from the lodge gates. One Sunday evening, in

winter, Miss Morris, her sister, and two maids walked down to the church

to attend the six o'clock service. As they came out from the drive on to

the road, they saw flickering down the hill in front of them, a pale

bluish light, which, in the darkness, Miss Morris and her sister took to

be a lantern carried by some church-goer like themselves, although they

could see no figure of man or woman. The light stopped at the

churchyard gate, and turned in, but Miss Morris observed that the person

carrying it did not enter the church, but went on towards a grave with a

tombstone. Now this grave happened to be the only one in the

burying-ground, for the church had only lately been built, and the

churchyard but newly consecrated. Arrived at the solitary tombstone, the

light suddenly disappeared. The two girls went round to the same place,

as their curiosity was roused by the light's disappearance, but there

was nobody by the grave. Rather puzzled, they went into the church,

where they had to wait some time for the service to begin, as the Vicar

was very late. Afterwards he told Miss Morris that he had been detained

at a cottage by a dying woman, who had begged him to stay with her till

the end. When they returned home, the sisters told their mother of the

light they had seen, and were promptly advised by her to speak to no one

else on the subject, and to dismiss it from their minds as soon as

possible. However, next day, as Miss Morris was passing the churchyard

gate, she saw a brother of the deceased woman standing there with the

Vicar, to whom he said: "My sister wished to be buried by the side of

her friend, Sarah Jones." And the man then walked through the

churchyard, _straight to the exact place by the tombstone_ where Miss

Morris and her sister had seen the light disappear on the evening

before.

Not long ago I was talking about the _canwyll corph_ and kindred

subjects with the postmistress of a Cardiganshire village, who remarked

that she had only known one person who had ever seen a "corpse-light."

This was a woman--now dead--called Mary Jones, and to use the words of

the postmistress "a very religious and respectable person." At one time

in her life she lived in a village called Pennant (its real name), a

place well known to me, where the church is rather a landmark, being set

on top of a hill. Mary Jones invariably and solemnly declared that

whenever a death occurred among her neighbours, she would always

previously see a corpse-candle wend its way up the hill from the village

to the churchyard. And at the same place she once saw the Toili (a

phantom funeral). This last experience was in broad daylight, and was

shared with several other people who were haymaking at the time, and who

all saw clearly the spectral procession appear along a road and

mysteriously vanish when it reached a certain point. But we will speak

of the Toili presently.

Another belief relating to the _canwyll_ was that it not only boded

future troubles, but that it was positively dangerous for anybody who

saw one to get in its way. I had never heard locally of this

disagreeable attribute of the corpse-light until I talked to the

postmistress already quoted. This woman said that long ago she and other

children were always frightened from straying far from home by tales of

"Jacky Lantern," a mysterious light, which, encountered on the road,

would infallibly burn them up! George Borrow ("Wild Wales," Chapter

LXXXVIII.) mentions meeting with the same belief when talking to a

shepherd who acted as his guide from the Devil's Bridge over Plinlimmon.

Borrow said: "They (corpse-candles) foreshadow deaths, don't they?" To

which the shepherd replied: "They do, sir; but that's not all the harm

they do. They are very dangerous for anybody to meet with. If they come

bump up against you when you are walking carelessly, its generally all

over with you in this world." Then followed the story of how a man, well

known to the shepherd, had actually met his death in that weird manner.

Howells also mentions the same idea in "Cambrian Superstitions," where,

writing of corpse-lights, he says: "When any one observes their

approach, if they do not move aside they will be struck down by their

force, as I was informed by a person living, whose father coming in

contact with one was thrown off his horse."

This certainly adds to the fear inspired by the sight of the _canwyll_,

but the more general belief seems to have been that these lights were

quite harmless in themselves, and when seen were regarded with awe only

as sure harbingers of future woe.

If we may believe the Rev. Mr. Davies, whose letter, published in

Baxter's "World of Spirits," has been already quoted, there is yet

another kind of fire apparition peculiar to Wales, called the Tanwe, or

Tanwed. "This appeareth to our seeming, in the lower region of the air,

straight and long ... but far more slowly than falling stars. It

lighteneth all the air and ground where it passeth, lasteth three or

four miles or more for ought is known, and when it falls to the ground

it sparkleth and lighteth all about. These commonly announce the

death ... of freeholders, by falling on their lands, and you shall

scarcely bury any such with us, be he but a lord of a house and garden,

but you shall find some one at his burial that hath seen this fire fall

on some part of his lands." Sometimes these appearances have been seen

by the persons whose deaths they foretold, two instances of which Mr.

Davies records as having happened in his own family.

When reading the above description of the "Tanwe"--of which I had

previously never heard--there came to my mind a story told me by an old

Welsh lady of an extraordinary phenomenon, which she solemnly declared

had preceded the death of her brother-in-law--a gentleman well known and

respected in Cardiganshire. Shortly before his last and fatal illness

his wife, returning home one evening, was amazed to see the most curious

lights, apparently falling from the sky immediately over their house.

From the account given by my friend, her sister seems to have at once

recognised the supernatural character and sinister import of the

mysterious lights; their appearance being recalled with melancholy

interest by her and her sisters after the sad event which so soon

followed. Can this incident be explained as a survival of the old

"Tanwe" idea, of which our authority, the then Vicar of Geneurglyn,

wrote in the seventeenth century? It seems as if it might be so, and

that belief in the Tanwe was probably an old _local_ superstition,

peculiar to that district; considering the fact that the parish of which

Mr. Davies was Vicar is in the same county and not more than a dozen

miles from the house where the fiery death-signals are supposed to have

been seen twelve or fifteen years ago. For so far I have neither heard

nor read of the Tanwe being known in any other part of Wales.

Belief in the Toili used to be very widely spread in Cardiganshire,

especially, it is said, in the northern part of the county. Meyrick, the

historian of Cardiganshire, tells us: "The Toili ... is a phantasmagoric

representation of a funeral, and the peasants affirm that when they meet

with this, unless they move out of the road, they must inevitably be

knocked down by the pressure of the crowd. They add that they know the

persons whose spirits they behold, and hear them distinctly singing

hymns." But the Toili was not always visible; sometimes the presence of

the ghostly _cortege_ would be known merely by the sudden feeling of

encountering a crowd of people and hearing a dim wailing like the sound

of a distant funeral dirge.

Those of us who have lived in the country, and know how characteristic

of a Welsh burial is this singing of funeral hymns--one or two of which

are of a poignant sadness impossible to describe--can imagine how

significant and suggestive such a ghostly sound would be to peasant

ears. An old woman, whom I knew well years ago, used always to declare

that she heard this hymn singing before the death of any friend or

neighbour. She would invariably say, if one commented on any death that

occurred: "Yes, indeed, but I knew some one was going; I heard the Toili

last week."

I have heard of two cases of people being involved in invisible funeral

processions, which must truly be a most disagreeable experience. One

story relates to a Mrs. D----, who lived in the parish of Llandewi

Brefi, in Cardiganshire. Her husband was ill, and one day as she was

going upstairs to his room, she had a feeling as of being in a vision,

though she could _see_ nothing. But the staircase seemed suddenly

crowded with people, and by their shuffling, irregular footsteps, low

exclamations, and heavy breathings she knew they were carrying a heavy

burden downstairs. So realistic was the impression, that when she had

struggled to the top of the stairs she felt actually faint and weak

from the pressure of the crowd. A few days later her husband died, and

on the day of the funeral, when the house was full of people, and the

coffin carried with difficulty down the narrow stairs, she realised that

her curious experience had been a warning of sorrow to come.

The other instance was told me by the Rev. G. Eyre Evans of Aberystwith

(who kindly allows his real name to be given), a minister and writer on

archaeological subjects of considerable local fame. In his own words: "As

to the Toili, well, if ever a man met one and got mixed in it, I

certainly did when crossing Trychrug[7] one night. I seemed to feel the

brush of people, to buffet against them, and to be in the way; perhaps

the feeling lasted a couple of minutes. It was an eerie, weird feeling,

quite inexplicable to me, but there was the experience, say what you

will."

[Footnote 7: A high hill in Cardiganshire.]

Quite lately a friend writes from South Cardiganshire telling me of "a

ghostly hearse and followers, seen recently by a neighbour, the man

recognising the driver of the hearse and the chief mourner ... and

little thinking it was a ghostly procession he was looking at, he

whipped up his horse to get closer.... The animal reared and trembled,

refusing to go nearer or move even in the direction taken by the hearse.

Terror then also seized the man, and he turned and fled the longest way

home to avoid the ghostly burial-ground."

Another story of the Toili comes from St. David's, and this we will also

give in the words of the correspondent who, knowing my weakness for

"ghosteses," was kind enough to send it.

"An old lady, one Miss Black, who is still living, resided some time ago

in the house formerly belonging to the Archdeacon of St. David's, with

one servant-maid, whom on a certain evening she sent on an errand,

telling her to return at once. This she did not do, and in consequence

was found fault with. The girl stated, in explanation, that she had been

greatly frightened by coming across a phantom funeral descending the

steps below the entrance gateway towers (of the Cathedral) and that it

turned to the right in the direction of the Lady Chapel. The old lady

was incredulous, and said, moreover, that funerals never entered the

Cathedral yard (this was, of course, before the yard was closed for

burials) that way, which was the fact; they used to pass down the road

running parallel with the yard, and enter by the big gate below the

Deanery.

"But actually not long after a real funeral did come by the way the girl

said, and went in the direction she described; the road referred to

being for the time impassable, having been dug across for the laying of

some pipes."

The next very good example of this strange second sight also comes from

St. David's, and it is through the courtesy of the Editor of the

_Western Mail_ that I am able to relate it here: "The following anecdote

was related by the late Mr. Pavin Phillips, the Haverfordwest antiquary,

of a friend of his, a clergyman resident at St. David's. One of his

parishioners was notorious as a seer of phantom funerals. When the

clergyman used to go out to his Sunday duties, the old woman would

frequently accost him with, 'Ay, ay, Mr. ---- _fach_,[8] you'll be here

of a weekday soon, for I saw a funeral last night.'

[Footnote 8: _Fach_, a mild term of endearment in Welsh.]

"On one occasion he asked her, 'Well, Molly, have you seen a funeral

lately?' 'Ay, ay, Mr. ---- _fach_,' was the reply; 'I saw one a night or

two ago, and I saw you as plainly as I see you now, but you did what I

never saw you do before.' 'What was that?' 'Why,' replied the old woman,

'as you came out of the church to meet the funeral, you stooped down and

appeared to pick something off the ground.' 'Well,' thought the

clergyman to himself, 'I'll try, Molly, if I can't make a liar of you

for once.' Some time afterwards the good man was summoned to a funeral

on horseback. Dismounting he donned his surplice, and moved forward to

meet the procession. The surplice became entangled in his spur, and as

he stooped to disengage it he suddenly thought of the old woman and her

vision. Molly was right, after all."

Our next story, recounting a most curious incident which happened a

comparatively short time ago in my own neighbourhood, certainly sounds

incredible. Yet I have reason to believe in the truthfulness of the

clergyman whose experience is narrated, and should judge him incapable

of even wishing to invent any such extraordinary adventure as befell him

one night only a few years ago.

Mr. Harris is the Vicar of Llangaredig (which I substitute for the real

name), a pretty country church with a comfortable vicarage just across

the road from the churchyard. At the time of our story the Vicar's pony

was sick, and feeling very anxious about the animal, he determined to

sit up one night, in order to see how it got on. About midnight he

thought he would go out and have a look at the pony, which was in a

stable exactly opposite the churchyard, with the road between. As the

Vicar emerged from the stable into the road he was surprised to hear the

sound as of many footsteps, while he immediately had a queer feeling of

people pressing round him. In a minute or two he heard wheels as of

traps and carriages driving up to the churchyard gate and stopping

there, and especially the sound of a heavy vehicle like a hearse. Then,

after a pause, came the unmistakable, hollow sound of the hearse door,

as it was slammed to on an empty interior.

Then followed the heavy tread of men, bearing a burden into the church.

But all this time Mr. Harris _saw_ nothing. Rooted to the spot with

amazement, he waited a while at the stable-door till the night's

stillness was again broken by the sound of many people coming out of

church. Past him they brushed invisibly, then came the roll and rattle

of wheels, as traps and gigs drove away. Then as the crowd seemed slowly

to move off, the Vicar _distinctly heard talking_, and though he could

not distinguish the words spoken, yet he plainly recognised the voices

of two or three of his parishioners. When all at last was still, Mr.

Harris returned to the house, much mystified by his inexplicable

experience, which he was presently forced to regard as a prophecy. For

next day came a telegram, informing him that a relation _of the people

whose voices he had recognised_ had died, and requesting him to arrange

for the burial of the deceased in Llangaredig churchyard.

Much resembling these accounts of the Toili in Wales is the experience

of certain persons possessing second sight, of whom Martin writes, in

his "Description of the Western Islands of Scotland": "Some find

themselves as it were in a crowd of people, having a Corpse which they

carry along with them, and after such Visions the Seers come in sweating

and describe the People that appeared; if there be any of their

Acquaintances among them, they give an account of their Names, also of

the Bearers, but they know nothing concerning the Corpse."

So that in ancient times belief in the Toili may have been common to

several of the Celtic tribes, and its origin is possibly of great

antiquity. Corpse-candles, too, seem to have been known in Scotland,

judging by Scott's allusion, in his ballad of "Glenfinlas"--

"I see the death-damps chill thy brow,

I hear thy warning spirit cry;

The corpse-lights dance--they're gone, and now ...

No more is given to gifted eye."

--though the "lights" here mentioned more probably refer to the vivid

blue flames which seers declared to be visible hovering over a dying

person. Such a "superstition" is possibly supposed to be extinct; yet

this phenomenon has been witnessed by a friend of mine (need I say of

Celtic race?) who described the tiny flames as "dancing," using exactly

the same word as Sir Walter Scott does.[9] It seemed impossible to

disbelieve my friend's statement, which was made with the utmost

solemnity and carried conviction at the moment; yet what can we think as

to the absolute truth of it and the many alleged appearances of the

Canwyll Corph and the Toili? It is difficult indeed to say. No doubt

large "grains of salt" must be taken with some of the stories, while on

the other hand one cannot entirely discredit the testimony of sane and

sober individuals, such as Mr. Harris, or Mary Jones, the "very

respectable and religious" friend of the postmistress. Personally I have

no wish to be too sceptical; partly on the principle that all these

ancient beliefs and legends help to add interest and lend a glamour to a

world ever becoming more matter-of-fact and material. And also to quote

the words of the great French scientist M. Camille Flammarion, because

"Ce que nous pouvons penser ... c'est que tout en faisant la part des

superstitions, des erreurs, des illusions, des farces, des malices, des

mensonges, des fourberies, il reste des faits psychiques veritables,

digne de l'attention des chercheurs."

[Footnote 9: In "Folk-lore of the Northern Counties" Mr. Henderson says:

"They believe in the county of Sussex that the death of a sick person is

shown by the prognostic of 'shell-fire.' This is a sort of lambent

flame, which seems to rise from the bodies of those who are ill and

envelop the bed."]

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