[Illustration: THE HOWTH LIGHTHOUSE.]
The bold and nearly insulated promontory called the Hill of Howth, which
forms the north-eastern terminus of the Bay of Dublin, would in itself
supply abundant materials for a topographical volume--and a most
interesting work it might be made. For the geologist, botanist, and
naturalist, it has an abundant store of attractions, while its various
ancient monuments of every class and age, from the regal fortress, the
sepulchral cairn, and the cromleac of Pagan times, to the early Christian
oratory, the abbey and the baronial hall of later years, would supply an
equally ample stock of materials for the antiquary and the historian. With
all, or most of these features, we propose to make our readers somewhat
familiar in our future numbers; but our present purpose is only to give
some account of one of its most recently erected structures--the
singularly picturesque and beautiful lighthouse, which we have attempted
to depict in our prefixed illustration.
The Baily lighthouse, as it is popularly called, is situated at the
eastern extremity of Howth, on a nearly perpendicular rock, whose vertex
is elevated one hundred and ten feet above high-water mark. This rock,
which is nearly insulated, is the terminus of a long and narrow peninsula
of still higher altitude, which stretches out into the sea from the
eastern end of the promontory, and whose cliffs are equally precipitous on
both sides, so that the most striking and romantic views of the
lighthouse can be had from various points, in some commanding the
horizon-bound sea, and in others the Bay of Dublin, with all its
delightful sceneries of wooded country and mountain ranges. The view which
we have chosen for our illustration is taken from the northern side of
this peninsula, that presented from the other side having been already
published in several popular works; but we trust that this view will not
be deemed less striking or picturesque; and we are of opinion that a more
romantic subject of its kind is not to be found in the empire.
The lighthouse is itself an object of great interest and beauty, and is
constructed according to the most approved models of modern times. Its
form is that of a frustrated cone, supporting a lantern which exhibits a
fixed bright light. The illumination, according to the system now
generally adopted by the Trinity-house, is produced by a set of reflectors
ground to the parabolic form, in the foci of which twenty large oil lamps
are placed: an outer gallery, lightly but securely railed, surrounds the
dome. Connected with the building on its east side, there is a large room,
which opens by folding doors on a platform, and where an excellent
telescope is kept, by means of which the shoals which obstruct the
entrance to the bay may be distinctly observed--namely, the great Kish,
and the Bennet and Burford banks, which are links of the chain extending
along the Wicklow and Wexford coasts, and called the Irish grounds.
These, though not visible, are distinctly marked in stormy weather by the
surf, which breaks over them with uncommon violence, and form a dangerous
obstruction to the approach to the bay.
The Baily lighthouse was erected by the Ballast Board of Dublin in 1814,
previous to which time the Howth light, as it was commonly called, stood
on a hill considerably more to the north, and at an elevation of more than
three hundred feet above sea level. This circumstance of its great
elevation, led, however, to its being abandoned, and the erection of the
Baily lighthouse in its place, as it was found to be frequently involved
in clouds and mist, while lower stations were clear and well defined.
The Baily lighthouse is a spot of no less antiquarian than picturesque
interest. Its name, which is cognate with the Latin _ballium_, is derived
from an ancient circular stone fortress which encircled the apex of the
rock, and of which considerable remains existed previous to the erection
of the present buildings. This great keep was fortified by three earthen
walls, with deep intervening ditches placed at the entrance to the narrow
peninsula, and by extending from one side of it to the other, cut it off
completely from the promontory. These works still remain, though in a very
ruinous state; yet they are sufficiently distinct to mark their purpose,
and to convey a good idea of the style of military defensive works in use
in extremely remote times. They will be found marked on the Ordnance map.
In the popular traditions of Howth, these works--like most others in
Ireland, the real origin of which has been forgotten--are ascribed to the
Danes, a remnant of whom, after the battle of Clontarf in 1014, were
supposed to have fortified themselves in this peninsula, till they were
carried off in their vessels. But such tradition is wholly opposed to
history, and the works themselves exhibit sufficient evidences of its
fallacy; they belong to a much earlier age, being nothing less than the
remains of Dun-Criomthan (pronounced Dun-Criffan), the fortress of
Criomthan Nia-nair, who, according to our ancient histories, ascended the
throne of Ireland in the year 74, and who, after being dethroned, died in
this fastness in the year 90, after a reign of sixteen years. His
sepulchral cairn--crowning the summit of Sliabh-Martin, the highest
pinnacle of the ancient Bin-edair--is still to be seen.
A century or two more will wholly obliterate these remains of the once
powerful prince and warrior Criomthan; but his celebrity belongs to
history, and will not thus pass away. It was in the third year of his
reign that Agricola fortified the bounds of the Roman empire in Britain
from the incursions of the Picts and Irish, the latter, it is said, led by
the monarch Criomthan himself, who, according to our annalist, returned to
Ireland, loaded with spoil, as thus stated in the record of his death in
the Annals of the Four Masters:--
“Criomthan Nia-nair, sixteen years monarch of Ireland, died, after his
illustrious foreign expedition. It was from that expedition he brought
home the noble spoils; the golden chariot, the golden chess-board studded
with three hundred sparkling gems, and the _ceth-criomthan_, which was a
parti-coloured shirt, interwoven with gold. He also brought with him a
battle-giving sword, having various figures of serpents engraved upon it,
and inlaid with gold; a shield embossed with bright silver; a spear which
gave an incurable wound; a sling from which no erring cast could be
thrown; two hounds linked together by a chain of silver; together with
many other valuable rarities.”
How long after this period Dun-Criomthan existed as a fortress, it would
perhaps be impossible now to ascertain, but from the following record in
the Annals above quoted, it would appear to have been preserved at least
for six centuries:--
“A. C. 646. The battle of Dun-Criomthan was gained by Conall and Kellach
(co-monarchs of Ireland), the two sons of Maolcobha, over Aongus, the son
of Donall. Aongus was killed in this battle, as was also Cathasach, the
son of Donall, his brother.”
These notices, which have not hitherto appeared in an English form, of a
highly interesting historical remain, not previously identified by the
antiquarian topographer, will, it is hoped, impart a new interest to the
Baily of Howth; but, independently of such claims on our attention, its
singular picturesqueness should have made it long since not only more
familiarly known to the visitors of our capital, but also to ourselves.