FLOUR

7. Grains Used for Flour.--As has been pointed out elsewhere, numerous

grains are raised by man, but only two of them, namely, wheat and rye,

are used alone for the making of yeast, or leavened, bread. The other

grains, such as corn, rice, and oats, produce a flat, unleavened cake,

so they are seldom used for bread making unless they are mixed with

white flour. Wheat and rye have been used for bread making for a very

long time, and their universal use today is due to the fact that they

contain considerable protein in the form of _gluten_. This is the

substance that produces elasticity in the dough mixture, a condition

that is absolutely essential in the making of raised bread. In fact, the

toughness and elasticity of bread dough are what make it possible for

the dough to catch and hold air and gas and thus produce a light,

porous loaf.

8. Of these two grains, rye is used less extensively in the United

States for the making of bread than wheat, although in some countries,

particularly the inland countries of Continental Europe, considerable

use is made of it. Its limited use here is undoubtedly due to the fact

that when rye is used alone it makes a moist, sticky bread, which is

considered undesirable by most persons. The reason for this is that,

although rye contains a sufficient quantity of gluten, this substance is

not of the proper quality to make the elastic dough that produces a

light, spongy loaf. Therefore, when rye is used, wheat flour is

generally mixed with it. The result is a bread having a good texture,

but the dark color and the typical flavor that rye produces.

9. Wheat, the other grain used for bread making, is an annual grass of

unknown origin. It is used more extensively for food than any other

grain. In fact, it has been estimated that the average quantity consumed

by each person is about 6 bushels a year, and of this amount by far the

greater part is used in the making of bread. Since so much of this grain

is used as food, considerable time and effort have been spent in

developing those qualities which are most desirable for the purpose to

which wheat is put and in perfecting the processes whereby wheat flour

of a good quality may be obtained.

This grain is particularly well adapted for bread making because of the

nature of the proteins it contains and the relative proportions of

these. These proteins, which occur in the wheat grain in the form of

gluten, are known as _gliadin_ and _glutenin_. The gliadin imparts

elasticity and tenacity, or toughness, to the gluten, and the glutenin

gives it strength. It is not, however, so much the quantity of gluten in

the wheat grain that actually determines the quality of flour as the

fact that the two varieties must be present in the proper proportions

in order for the gluten to have the properties desired for bread making.

Wheat consists of numerous varieties, but only two of these are grown

and used in the United States, namely, _spring_, or _hard, wheat_ and

_winter_, or _soft, wheat_.

10. SPRING, OR HARD WHEAT is so named because it is sown in the spring

of the year and is very tough or firm. Before this variety was known,

the wheat used for bread making was not ideal, and the efforts that were

made to produce a grain that would be suitable for this purpose resulted

in this variety. To obtain its particular composition, spring wheat must

be grown under suitable climatic and soil conditions. In North America,

it grows in the north central part of the United States and along the

southern border of Canada. This variety, which is harvested in the late

summer, is characterized by a large proportion of gluten and a

correspondingly small amount of starch. It is the presence of the gluten

that accounts for the hardness of the spring-wheat grain and the tough,

elastic quality of the dough made from the spring-wheat flour. Bread

dough, to be right, must have this quality, so that the flour made from

spring wheat is used almost exclusively for bread; whereas, for cake and

pastry, which should have a tender, unelastic texture, flour made from

soft wheat is more satisfactory.

11. WINTER, OR SOFT WHEAT derives its name from the fact that it is

planted in the autumn and is soft in texture. It is of less importance

in the making of bread than spring, or hard, wheat, but it is the kind

that has been grown for centuries and from which the varieties of spring

wheat have been cultivated. It is a softer grain than spring wheat,

because it contains less gluten and more starch. The flour made from it

does not produce so elastic a dough mixture as does that made from the

other variety of wheat; consequently, the finished product, such as

bread, rolls, etc., is likely to be more tender and more friable, or

crumbly. It is for this reason that winter, or soft, wheat is not used

extensively for bread, but is employed for pastry flour or mixed with

spring wheat to make what is called a _blend flour_, which may be used

for all purposes.

12. STRUCTURE OF WHEAT GRAIN.--In its natural state, wheat contains all

the food substances required for the nourishment of the human body in

nearly the proper proportions, and in addition it has in its

composition sufficient cellulose to give it considerable bulk. It has

been estimated that the average composition of this grain is as follows:

PER CENT.

Protein...................................... 11.9

Fat.......................................... 2.1

Carbohydrates................................ 71.9

Mineral salts................................. 1.8

Water........................................ 10.5

Cellulose..................................... 1.8

Total....................................... 100.0

[Illustration: Fig. 1]

So that the composition of wheat and the making of wheat flour may be

more clearly understood, it will be well to observe the structure of a

grain, or kernel, of wheat, which is shown greatly enlarged in Fig. 1.

At _a_ is shown the germ of the young plant, which remains undeveloped

until the grain is planted. This part contains practically all the fat

found in the grain, some starch, and a small quantity of protein. At _b_

is shown the inside of the kernel, or the _endosperm_, as it is called,

which is composed of starch granules interlaced with protein and mineral

salts. Surrounding these, as at _c_, is a layer of coarse cells that

contain mineral matter and protein, and between these cells and the

outer husk, as at _d, e, f_, and _g_, are layers of bran, which are

composed of cellulose and contain mineral salts and small quantities of

starch and protein. Enveloping the entire kernel is a husk, or bran

covering, _h_. This forms a protection to the rest of the grain, but it

cannot be used as food, because it is composed almost entirely of

cellulose, which is practically indigestible. The center of the grain,

or the heart, is the softest part and consists of cells filled with

starch. From this soft center the contents of the grain gradually grow

harder toward the outside, the harder part and that containing the most

gluten occurring next to the bran covering.

13. MILLING OF WHEAT FLOUR.--Great advances have been made in the

production of flour from wheat, and these are very good evidence of

man's progress in the way of invention. The earliest method consisted

in crushing the grain by hand between two stones, and from this crude

device came the mortar and pestle. A little later millstones in the form

of thick, heavy disks were brought into use for grinding grain. Two of

these stones were placed so that their surfaces came together, the lower

one being stationary and the upper one made to revolve. Early grinding

apparatus of this kind was turned by human power, but this kind of power

was first displaced by domestic animals and later by wind and water. Out

of this arrangement, which is still used to some extent in small mills,

has grown the present-day complicated machinery of the roller process,

by which any part of the grain may be included or rejected.

14. In the roller process, the grain is crushed between metal rolls

instead of being ground between stones. It is first screened in order to

separate all foreign matter from it, and then stored in bins. When it is

taken from these receptacles, it is put through another cleaning

process, called _scouring_, or it is thoroughly washed and dried in

order to loosen the dirt that clings to it and to free it entirely from

dust, lint, etc. As soon as it is completely cleansed, it is softened by

heat and moisture and then passed through a set of corrugated rollers,

which are adjustable as are the rubber rollers of a clothes wringer and

which flatten and break the grains. After this first crushing, some of

the bran is sifted out, while the main portion of the grain is put

through another set of rollers and crushed more finely. During the

milling, these processes of crushing the grain and removing the bran are

repeated from six to nine times, each pair of rollers being set somewhat

closer than the pair before, until the grain is pulverized. After the

grain has been thus reduced to a powder, it is passed through bolting

cloth, which acts as a very fine sieve and separates from it any foreign

material that may remain. The result is a very fine, white flour.

15. GRAHAM FLOUR.--Sometimes the entire grain, including the bran, germ,

etc., is ground fine enough merely for baking purposes and is used as

flour in this form. Such flour is called graham flour. It contains all

the nutriment, mineral matter, and cellulose of the original grain, and

is therefore considered valuable as food. However, the objection to this

kind of flour is that its keeping quality is not so good as that of the

kinds from which the germ has been removed, because the fat contained in

the germ is liable to become rancid.

16. WHOLE-WHEAT FLOUR.--The best grades of fine white flour make bread

of excellent quality, but such bread is not so nutritious as that made

from whole-wheat flour. In the making of this kind of flour, some of the

choicest varieties of wheat are first moistened in order to soften the

woody fiber of the bran and are then sifted until the outer husk of the

grain is removed. After this treatment, the grains are dried and then

pulverized into various grades of so-called whole-wheat flour. The name

whole-wheat flour is misleading, because it implies that all of the

grain is used; whereas, since several of the outer layers of bran and

the germ are removed in its production, whole-wheat flour is merely

flour in which practically all the gluten and the starch are retained.

Because this variety is not sifted as are the white flours, it is not so

fine as they are; but it is not so coarse as graham flour, nor is bread

made from it so dark in color. Both graham and whole-wheat flours

produce a more wholesome bread than any of the varieties of white flour,

because they contain more of the nutritive elements and mineral salts,

which are necessary in the diet. The bran that is retained in them is

not used by the body as food, but it adds bulk to the diet and assists

in carrying on the normal functions of the digestive tract.

17. SELECTION OF FLOUR.--If a large quantity of flour must be bought at

one time, as, for instance, enough to last through an entire season, it

is advisable to test it carefully before the purchase is made, so as to

avoid the danger of getting a poor grade. As a rule, however, housewives

are obliged to purchase only a small quantity at a time. In such cases,

it will not be necessary to test the flour before purchasing it,

provided a standard make is selected. Very often, too, a housewife in a

small family finds it inconvenient to keep on hand a supply of both

bread flour and pastry flour. In such an event, a blend flour, which, as

has been mentioned, is a mixture of flour made from spring and winter

wheat that will do for all purposes, is the kind to purchase. While such

flour is not ideal for either bread or pastry, it serves the purpose of

both very well.

18. QUALITY OF FLOUR.--Flour is put on the market in various grades, and

is named according to its quality. The highest grade, or best quality,

is called _high-grade patent_; the next grade, _bakers'_; and the next,

_second-grade patent_. The lowest grade, or poorest quality, is called

_red dog_. This grade is seldom sold for food purposes, but it is used

considerably for the making of paste.

The quality of flour used in bread making is of very great importance,

because flour of poor quality will not, of course, make good bread.

Every housewife should therefore be familiar with the characteristics of

good flour and should buy accordingly.

19. Several tests can be applied to flour to determine its kind and its

quality. The first test is its color. Bread flour, or flour made from

spring wheat, is usually of a creamy-white color, while pastry flour, or

that made from winter wheat, is more nearly pure white in color. A dark,

chalky-white, or gray color indicates that the flour is poor in quality.

The second test is the feel of the flour. A pinch of good bread flour,

when rubbed lightly between the thumb and the index finger, will be

found to be rather coarse and the particles will feel sharp and gritty.

When good pastry flour is treated in the same way, it will feel smooth

and powdery. The third test is its adhering power. When squeezed tightly

in the hand, good bread flour holds together in a mass and retains

slightly the impression of the fingers; poor bread flour treated in the

same way either does not retain its shape or, provided it contains too

much moisture, is liable to make a damp, hard lump. The odor of flour

might also be considered a test. Flour must not have a musty odor nor

any other odor foreign to the normal, rather nutty flavor that is

characteristic of flour.

The bleaching and adulteration of flour are governed by the United

States laws. Bleaching is permitted only when it does not reduce the

quality or strength nor conceal any damage or inferiority. Such flour

must be plainly labeled to show that it has been bleached.

20. CARE OF FLOUR.--There is considerable economy in buying flour in

large quantities, but unless an adequate storing place can be secured,

it is advisable to buy only small amounts at a time. Flour absorbs odors

very readily, so that when it is not bought in barrels it should if

possible be purchased in moisture-proof bags. Then, after it is

purchased, it should be kept where it will remain dry and will not be

accessible to odors, for unless the storage conditions are favorable, it

will soon acquire an offensive odor and become unfit for use. Flour

sometimes becomes infested with weevils, or beetles, whose presence can

be detected by little webs. To prevent the entrance of insects and

vermin of all kinds, flour should be kept in tightly closed bins after

it is taken from the barrels or sacks in which it is purchased. If newly

purchased flour is found to be contaminated with such insects, it should

be returned to the dealer.

Woman's Institute Library of Cookery. Volume 1: Essentials of Cookery; Cereals; Bread; Hot Breads · 第 140 / 203 题