PREPARATION, VARIETIES, AND COMPOSITION

85. In addition to the cereals that have already been discussed,

macaroni and foods of a similar nature are entitled to a place in this

Section, because they are made from wheat flour and are therefore truly

cereal products. These foods, which are commonly referred to as ITALIAN

PASTES, originated in Italy. In that country they were made from a

flour called _semolina_, which is derived from a native wheat that is

very hard and contains more protein than is required for the making of

ordinary dough mixtures. Later, when the manufacture of these foods was

taken up in the United States, the flour for them had to be imported

from Italy; but it has since been discovered that flour made from the

variety of wheat called _durum_, which is grown in the spring-wheat

territory of this country, can be used for producing these pastes. In

fact, this kind of flour has proved to be so successful that it now

takes the place of what was formerly imported.

86. To produce the Italian pastes, the wheat, from which the bran has

been removed, is ground into flour. This flour is made into a stiff

dough, which is rolled into sheets and forced over rods, usually of

metal, or made into a mass and forced over rods, and allowed to dry in

the air. When sufficiently dry, the rods are removed, leaving slender

tubes, or sticks, that have holes through the center. Because of the

manufacturing processes involved in the production of these foods for

market, they are higher in price than some cereals, but their value lies

in the fact that they are practically imperishable and are easily

prepared and digested.

87. Italian pastes are of several varieties, chief among which are

_macaroni_, _spaghetti_, and _vermicelli_. Macaroni is the largest in

circumference; spaghetti, a trifle smaller; and vermicelli, very small

and without a hole through the center. These pastes and variations of

them are made from the same dough; therefore, the tests for determining

the quality of one applies to all of them. These tests pertain to their

color, the way in which they break, and the manner in which they cook.

To be right, they should be of an even, creamy color; if they look gray

or are white or streaked with white, they are of inferior quality. When

they are broken into pieces, they should break off perfectly straight;

if they split up lengthwise, they contain weak places due to streaks.

All the varieties should, upon boiling, hold their shape and double in

size; in case they break into pieces and flatten, they are of

poor quality.

88. Since the Italian pastes are made from wheat, their food substances

are similar to those of wheat. As in other wheat products, protein is

found in them in the form of gluten, but, owing to the variety of wheat

used for them, it occurs in greater proportion in these foods than in

most wheat products. In fact, the Italian pastes are so high in protein,

or tissue-building material, that they very readily take the place of

meat. Unlike meat, however, they contain carbohydrates in the form of

wheat starch. They do not contain much fat or mineral salts, though,

being lower in these food substances than many of the other foods made

from wheat.

Woman's Institute Library of Cookery. Volume 1: Essentials of Cookery; Cereals; Bread; Hot Breads · 第 123 / 203 题