CHAPTER XII.

Head Winds--The Dusky Albatross--Tacking Ship--Fishing for

Birds--Amusements of the Mate and Passengers--A Poet--Fair

Winds--A Porpoise--A Fight in the Main Cabin--My Journal--Opinions

of Mr. Johnson--Meeting in the Main Cabin--Schools of

Porpoises--Narrow Escape from Shipwreck--An Act of Charity.

_August 24._ Our voyage is becoming prolonged to an excessively

wearisome duration. More than a month ago we calculated on arriving at

San Francisco in ten days; and with a fair wind we could have performed

the voyage in that time. Now, after having trebled it, we seem as

far from port as ever. During the last fortnight the winds have been

blowing from the north-east, and we have sailed sharp on the wind, in

expectation of falling in with the north-west trades, which are said

to prevail in these latitudes. But we have not yet found them. We are

now about nine hundred miles west of the coast of California, and in a

latitude only four degrees north of that of San Francisco. We have not

seen a sail for six weeks, and we begin to feel that we are

"Alone, alone, all, all alone,

Alone on the wide, wide sea."

And yet, we are not quite alone. A small number of my friends, the

birds, still hover around us, and accompany us in our wanderings over

the deep, even at this great distance from the land. A few days since

an albatross was seen flying near us. I watched it and soon saw that it

was the Dusky Albatross, (_Diomedia fusca_,) figured by Audubon from a

specimen obtained by Dr. Townsend on the coast of Oregon. It was soon

joined by another and another, and to-day, six or eight of them are

following us.

We suffer much weariness, lassitude, and drowsiness, consequent on our

long voyage and almost total inactivity. One circumstance has operated

very favorably for our comfort. After less than a week of the hot

weather of which I have spoken, there came a sudden and most agreeable

change. The sky became obscured with clouds, and has remained so the

greater part of the time since, and the air grew cooler, so much so

that our overcoats became necessary, and the passengers, who had been

driven from the main cabin, were enabled to return to their berths

again.

_August 27._ Our first inquiry this morning was the same we have often

and anxiously made of late, "How does she head?" And the same answer we

have received for the last fortnight was given, "About north-west." The

wind, however, was light, and we were not quite hopeless of a change.

An hour or two was passed in watching the signs, for the weather had

become very unsteady--when we heard from the captain, who had taken

the helm, the order, "Ready, 'bout." The sound was most cheering. We

had been standing on one course for a long time without making any

approach towards our destined port, but rather going farther from it,

and striving the while to gain a position, or rather, a wind, that

would carry us in. And this intention of tacking ship was an indication

of the captain's opinion, that the favorable moment had arrived.

The sailors stationed themselves at the proper ropes, and the mate

responded, "All ready, sir." "Hard a-lee!" sung out the captain, as

he put down the helm, and brought the ship into the wind, the sails

shivering and flapping with considerable violence. Presently they

began to fill on the other side, when he gave the order, "Maintop sail

haul," and instantly the ropes rattled through the blocks, and the main

sail, maintop sail and maintop-gallant sail swung steadily and at once

round the masts to the other side of the ship. Soon the order, "Let go

and haul," was given, when the foresails were swung into their proper

positions, and we were sailing on our course for San Francisco.

Tacking ship is a beautiful evolution, and it is for that reason that

I have described it, using in this instance the necessary nautical

terms, though I have generally endeavored to avoid them. It is also a

performance requiring some little skill and practice. Our mate on one

occasion made three attempts to tack, and failed, and was obliged at

last to "wear ship," that is, to turn the ship round with the wind,

thereby losing considerable ground. This is considered an unseamanlike

maneuver, and it subjected our mate to some ridicule among the sailors.

The indications of a favorable wind did not continue long, and in less

than half an hour we were obliged to put about again, and stand on

our old course. In this manner it continued for several days, veering

from point to point, between north-east and south-west, and forcing us

continually to change the course of the ship, while we made very little

progress towards port.

The Dusky Albatrosses became very familiar, and Sherman drew one of

them on deck, but the captain followed it closely round the ship, and

at last ordered it to be thrown overboard.

For the information of those who are not familiar with the science of

ornithology, and who may be curious to know how we could draw large

birds into the ship with a hook and line without injuring them, I will

say, that the upper mandible of many of these birds is recurved or

bent downwards beyond the lower mandible, forming a hook sufficiently

strong to hold the weight of the bird, and the fish-hook catches it by

this curved beak as it seizes the bait. The hook does not penetrate the

beak, but its sharp point prevents it slipping off so long as the bird

holds back.

Our mate amuses himself with drawing coarse caricatures of the

passengers; and they in turn retaliate by writing doggerel verses on

the mate. This leads me to say that one of our sailors has turned

out to be a poet, and if there is any thing in a name that entitles

a man to this honor, his claim is certainly good. His name is James

Montgomery. His verses, though not quite equal to those by the author

of the "Wanderer of Switzerland," are not altogether destitute of

poetic merit; and had he an opportunity to cultivate his talent,

he would probably learn to write poetry. The mate, unable to write

himself, offered Montgomery a dollar to write a lampoon on one of the

passengers. But he scorned to do so dirty a job for such a paltry

bribe, or for so low a fellow.

_September 1._ We have at last got a fair wind, and during the whole

day sailed directly on our course without tacking. Our spirits begin to

revive, and we are not quite hopeless of reaching port.

_September 3._ Fair winds continue to favor us, and we are within four

hundred miles of California. A very few days will, in all probability,

find us on terra firma again, when we shall part, many of us to meet no

more. I would that these few remaining days might be spent in peace and

harmony among us. But fate orders it otherwise. My enemies, the captain

and mate, since the treacherous disclosure made by the chaplain, have

been growing more and more acrimonious in their hatred, and they seldom

omit an opportunity to insult me. An instance occurred this evening.

But I forbear.

Sherman caught a porpoise last night, and cooked a portion of it

to-day. We ate it rather greedily, and all thought it excellent. Our

long voyage, coarse fare, and frequent hunger, have relieved us of many

fastidious whims about food, and we have learned to eat and to relish

some things, which it would be difficult for us to swallow at home.

These porpoises throw out a sort of phosphorescent light, by which they

are readily seen in the night. This one was taken at nine o'clock of a

cloudy evening.

_September 4._ A fight occurred at breakfast in the main cabin between

an Irishman of fifty-nine, the oldest man in the ship, and an American,

not much his junior. The Yankee received a cut on the ear with a

case-knife, and he knocked down his antagonist and gave him some severe

bruises. Our ship is becoming a miniature pandemonium.

My journal has become a source of much disquietude to Captain J. and

Mrs. L----t. It has excited some interest among the passengers, and I

have been repeatedly requested to publish an account of the voyage. I

refused at first, but after many solicitations I so far yielded as to

promise that if I had time to revise my journal after our arrival at

San Francisco, I would publish it. A subscription was immediately got

up, and one hundred and twenty copies subscribed for. The captain and

Mr. Johnson exerted all their influence to prevent the passengers from

putting their names to the paper, but they had the mortification to

find that their opposition only tended to increase the subscription.

Mr. Johnson made himself particularly busy in the matter. He urged

me to read my manuscript to the ship's company. Not that he felt any

personal interest in it, O, no! But he thought that justice to Captain

Jackson, whose character I had assailed, and to the passengers, who

knew not what they were subscribing for, required me to read it. I did

not.

Hints had been repeatedly given me, that the captain intended to seize

the obnoxious manuscript. Consultations had been held upon the subject,

and it was stated--and I have no doubt of the fact--that Mr. Johnson

had expressed the opinion, that the captain was fully authorized by

law to break open my trunk, and seize it. Uncertain as to what these

ignorant madmen might be tempted to do, I deposited the journal with a

friend in the main cabin, where it remained till I left the ship.

_September 5._ This is the last Sabbath we expect to spend on board the

bark, and as we expect to separate in two or three days, a meeting was

held in the main cabin, the object of which was to settle disputes and

restore harmony between the officers and passengers.

It proved, however, a failure. Several short addresses were made,

one by the captain in a spirit of defiance, and one by Mr. Johnson,

defending his career on board the bark; a prayer was offered, and a

parting hymn sung, and we broke up with very little change of feeling.

Immense schools of porpoises passed to-day, and Sherman struck and

secured one of the largest we have seen. Many of the men have employed

themselves in preparing the skin for belts. A whale passed us in

the afternoon, coming close along-side the bark. And to keep up the

excitement, a sail was discovered on our starboard bow, the only one we

have seen for fifty-three days.

_September 6._ We were aroused this morning at four o'clock by the

startling cry of "breakers." Our ship instantly became a scene of

confusion, and the passengers rushed on deck from every quarter.

I arose at the first cry and went out. And there, within fifteen

or twenty rods lay the land, the sea roaring loudly, and breaking

in foaming surges on the shore. The helm had been put down, and

fortunately the ship came round in season to escape. A minute's delay

would have wrecked us. Or had the ship missed coming in stays, as she

has often done during the voyage, nothing could have saved her. There

was at the time a thick fog, which accounts for our near approach to

the breakers before they were discovered. The sailor on the lookout

heard the roaring of the breakers for some time before he discovered

them, but attributed it to some other cause; for according to the

captain's reckoning we were still far from land. Nothing could be

more cheering after our long voyage than to behold the land of our

destination, but this sudden introduction to it was any thing but

agreeable.

And now having escaped the perils of shipwreck, and hoping to arrive in

port to-day, we are closing our voyage with an act of charity to our

fellow-passenger, Dolliff, who, though convalescent, is still unable to

support himself. A considerable sum is being raised for him.

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Round Cape Horn Voyage of the Passenger-Ship James W. Paige, from Maine to California in the Year 1852 · 第 12 / 13 章