Columbus at this time conferred with Pinzon, as to a chart w

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LITTLE MASTERPIECES OF SCIENCE

[Illustration: Christopher Columbus.]

Little Masterpieces

of Science

Edited by George Iles

EXPLORERS

Christopher Columbus Charles Wilkes

Lewis and Clarke Clarence King

Zebulon M. Pike John Wesley Powell

[Illustration]

NEW YORK

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY

1902

Copyright, 1902, by Doubleday, Page & Co.

Copyright, 1891, by Justin Winsor

Copyright, 1871, by Oliver Wendell Holmes

PREFACE

"Peace hath her victories

No less renown'd than war."

The love of adventure, the expectation of the unexpected, have ever

prompted men stout of heart, and ready of resource, to brave the perils

of wilderness and sea that they might set their feet where man never

trod before. The world owes much to the explorers who have faced hostile

savages, stood in jeopardy from the cobra and the lion, the foes as

deadly which lurk in the brook which quenches thirst. A traveller like

Clarke takes his life in his hands. He breaks a path which leads he

knows not whither: it may bring him to a shore whence he has no ship to

sail from; it may end in an abyss he cannot bridge. The thickets rend

and sting him, poison may colour a tempting grain or berry, frost may

deaden his energies and lull him to the sleep that knows no waking. He

has but little aid from science: beyond food and medicine he carries

little more than a watch, a compass, a rifle, and a cartridge belt.

Beyond all instruments and weapons are his skill, agility, gumption,

diplomacy. And these resources in no mean measure are shared by the man

for whom he prepares the way, the immigrant, who, in the early days of

settlement, requires a constancy even higher than the explorer's own.

It is one thing to traverse a wilderness under the excitement of hourly

adventure; it is another thing to stay there for a lifetime and convert

it to a home.

The race of American explorers is not extinct. Major Powell is with us

to-day, hale and hearty still. Peary, in the prime of his powers, is as

capital an example of courage and resource as ever threw themselves upon

the riddle of the frozen north. Beyond the Arctic and Antarctic circles

little remains unknown on earth. When at last every rood of ground and

knot of sea is mapped and charted, whither shall the explorer direct his

steps? He cannot repeat the conquests of Lewis and Clarke, Pike and

Peary, but he need not on that account fold his hands so long as a brave

heart and a quick wit are wanted in the world.

GEORGE ILES

CONTENTS

WINSOR, JUSTIN

COLUMBUS DISCOVERS AMERICA

Embarks at Palos, August 3, 1492. A mishap befalls the

_Pinta_. Sees the Peak of Teneriffe in eruption. Arrives at

the Canaries. Falsifies his reckoning to conceal from his crew

the length of the voyage. On September 13th his compass points

to the true north, a fact without precedent. Next day a water

wagtail is seen, betokening an approach to land. Two pelicans

alight on board, with the same significance. These promises

fail, and the crew becomes disheartened and discontented. On

October 11th Columbus sees a light, presumably on shore: four

hours later, next day, land is descried and named by Columbus

San Salvador. Discussion as to where this place is: the

balance of probability inclines to Watling's Island. 3

LEWIS AND CLARKE

ARRIVAL AT THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 1805

Descent of the last rapid of the Columbia River, November 2. A

feast of wappatoo root. Meet unfriendly Indians. Observe Mount

St. Helen, of Vancouver, about ninety miles off. The country

fertile and delightful, abounding with game. The ocean suddenly

appears. Rough weather and its effects. Friendly Indians bring

food. Rain ruins merchandise, clothing and food. Thievish

Indians are withstood. The journey comes successfully to an

end. 29

PIKE, ZEBULON M.

THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 1806

Meets friendly Indians and whites. A serious fire. Deep snow

inflicts severe hardship. A trackless journey ends in safety

and a hospitable welcome. Provisions exorbitant in price. A

march on snowshoes. Sleds of native pattern are made. Delay

through water on the ice. Bitter cold and the curse of solitude.

A dismal swamp. Unfriendly Indians and the purchasing power

of whiskey. The main source of the Mississippi comes into

view. Disabled by excessive exertion. Hoists the flag. Visits

of Indian chiefs. 55

WILKES, CHARLES

MANILA IN 1842

Character of the city Spanish and Oriental: numerous canals. A

strange and motley population, the artisans for the most part

Chinese. Malays and Chinese live apart. Much evidence of

volcanic activity in the Philippines. Natural resources

abundant. Primitive tools cause much waste of labour. The

buffalo as a draught animal. Rice the staple diet: defective

mode of culture. Hemp, its growth and manufacture. Crops of

coffee, sugar and cotton. The ravages of locusts. Geography of

the country and the diverse elements of its population. Its

army of about 6,000. Frequent rebellions among the troops and

tribes. Iron rule of the Government. The market-place a scene

of unending interest. Excellent poultry. The environs of

Manila delightful. 71

KING, CLARENCE

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT TYNDALL

An eight hours' climb over ridges of granite and snow. "Shall

we ascend Mount Tyndall?" "Why not?" At first Professor

Brewer believes the attempt madness, but yields consent at

last. The climb begins and steadily increases in difficulty. A

gulf of 5,000 feet in depth. A night's lodging in a granite

crevice. Rocks of many tons strike near. The galling pain

of heavy burdens. A profound chasm is crossed on a rope.

Exhilaration of utmost peril. A small bush ensures salvation.

A welcome stretch of trees and flowers. A spire, all but

perpendicular, of rock and ice is surmounted, and at last is

reached the crest of Mount Tyndall. 97

POWELL, JOHN WESLEY

THE GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO IS EXPLORED

Embarkation under cliffs 4,000 feet high. A swift run ends in

a descent of eighty feet in one-third of a mile. Breakers

render a boat unmanageable. Walls more than a mile high. The

baffling waters capsize a boat. Relics of ancient dwelling-places.

Rations destroyed by wet. Clothing lost and blankets scarce.

Grand views not fully enjoyed. A wild run through ten miles

of rapids. In places the rocks so cut by water that it is

impossible to see overhead. Great amphitheatres, half-dome

shaped. Mammoth springs of lime-laden waters. An ancient

lava-bed channelled out. Stolen squashes provide a feast.

Difficulties thicken: is it wise to go on? Three of the party

say no, the remainder proceed. All but lost in a whirlpool.

Emergence from the Grand Canon in safety and joy. 131

EXPLORERS COLUMBUS DISCOVERS AMERICA

Justin Winsor

[Part of Chapter IX., "The Final Agreement and the First

Voyage" from "Christopher Columbus and How He Received and

Imparted the Spirit of Discovery," copyright by Houghton,

Mifflin & Co., Boston and New York, 1892.]

So, everything being ready, on the 3rd of August, 1492, a half-hour

before sunrise, he unmoored his little fleet in the stream, and,

spreading his sails, the vessels passed out of the little river

roadstead of Palos, gazed after, perhaps, in the increasing light, as

the little crafts reached the ocean, by the friar of Rabida, from its

distant promontory of rock.

The day was Friday, and the advocates of Columbus's canonization have

not failed to see a purpose in its choice as the day of our Redemption,

and as that of the deliverance of the Holy Sepulchre by Geoffrey de

Bouillon, and of the rendition of Granada, with the fall of the Moslem

power in Spain. We must resort to the books of such advocates, if we

would enliven the picture with a multitude of rites and devotional

feelings that they gather in the meshes of the story of the departure.

They supply to the embarkation a variety of detail that their holy

purposes readily imagine, and place Columbus at last on his poop, with

the standard of the Cross, the image of the Saviour nailed to the holy

wood, waving in the early breeze that heralded the day. The

embellishments may be pleasing, but they are not of the strictest

authenticity.

In order that his performance of an embassy to the princes of the East

might be duly chronicled, Columbus determined, as his journal says, to

keep an account of the voyage by the west, "by which course," he says,

"unto the present time, we do not know, _for certain_, that any one has

passed." It was his purpose to write down, as he proceeded, everything

he saw and all that he did, and to make a chart of his discoveries, and

to show the directions of his track.

Nothing occurred during those early August days to mar his run to the

Canaries, except the apprehension which he felt that an accident,

happening to the rudder of the _Pinta_,--a steering gear now for some

time in use, in place of the old lateral blades,--was a trick of two

men, her owners, Gomez Rascon and Christopher Quintero, to impede a

voyage in which they had no heart. The Admiral knew the disposition of

these men well enough not to be surprised at the mishap, but he tried to

feel secure in the prompt energy of Pinzon, who commanded the _Pinta_.

As he passed (August 24-25, 1492) the peak of Teneriffe, it was the time

of an eruption, of which he makes bare mention in his journal. It is to

the corresponding passage of the _Historie_, [written by his son,

Fernando,] that we owe the somewhat sensational stories of the terrors

of the sailors, some of whom certainly must long have been accustomed to

like displays in the volcanoes of the Mediterranean.

At the Gran Canarie the _Nina_ was left to have her lateen sails changed

to square ones; and the _Pinta_, it being found impossible to find a

better vessel to take her place, was also left to be overhauled for her

leaks, and to have her rudder again repaired, while Columbus visited

Gomera, another of the islands. The fleet was reunited at Gomera on

September 2. Here he fell in with some residents of the Ferro, the

westermost of the group, who repeated the old stories of land

occasionally seen from its heights, lying towards the setting sun.

Having taken on board wood, water, and provisions, Columbus finally

sailed from Gomera on the morning of Thursday, September 6. He seems to

have soon spoken a vessel from Ferro, and from this he learned that

three Portuguese caravels were lying in wait for him in the

neighbourhood of that island, with a purpose, as he thought, of visiting

in some way upon him, for having gone over to the interests of Spain,

the indignation of the Portuguese king. He escaped encountering them.

Up to Sunday, September 9, they had experienced so much calm weather,

that their progress had been slow. This tediousness soon raised an

apprehension in the mind of Columbus that the voyage might prove too

long for the constancy of his men. He accordingly determined to falsify

his reckoning. This deceit was a large confession of his own timidity

in dealing with his crew, and it marked the beginning of a long struggle

with deceived and mutinous subordinates, which forms so large a part of

the record of his subsequent career.

The result of Monday's sail, which he knew to be sixty leagues, he noted

as forty-eight, so that the distance from home might appear less than it

was. He continued to practise this deceit.

The distances given by Columbus are those of dead reckoning beyond any

question. Lieutenant Murdock, of the United States Navy, who has

commented on this voyage, makes his league the equivalent of three

modern nautical miles, and his mile about three-quarters of our present

estimate for that distance. Navarrete says that Columbus reckoned in

Italian miles, which are a quarter less than Spanish miles. The Admiral

had expected to make land after sailing about seven hundred leagues from

Ferro; and in ordering his vessels in case of separation to proceed

westward, he warned them when they sailed that distance to come to the

wind at night, and only to proceed by day.

The log as at present understood in navigation had not yet been devised.

Columbus depended in judging of his distance on the eye alone, basing

his calculations on the passage of objects or bubbles past the ship,

while the running out of his hour glasses afforded the multiple for long

distances.

On Thursday, the 13th of September, he notes that the ships were

encountering adverse currents. He was now three degrees west of Flores,

and the needle of the compass pointed as it had never been observed

before, directly to the true north. His observation of this fact marks a

significant point in the history of navigation. The polarity of the

magnet, an ancient possession of the Chinese, had been known perhaps for

three hundred years, when this new spirit of discovery awoke in the

fifteenth century. The Indian Ocean and its traditions were to impart,

perhaps through the Arabs, perhaps through the returning Crusaders, a

knowledge of the magnet to the dwellers on the shores of the

Mediterranean, and to the hardier mariners who had pushed beyond the

pillars of Hercules, so that the new route to that same Indian Ocean was

made possible in the fifteenth century. The way was prepared for it

gradually. The Catalans from the port of Barcelona pushed out into the

great Sea of Darkness under the direction of their needles, as early at

least as the twelfth century. The pilots of Genoa and Venice, the hardy

Majorcans and the adventurous Moors, were followers of almost equal

temerity.

A knowledge of the variation of the needle came more slowly to be known

to the mariners of the Mediterranean. It had been observed by Peregrini

as early as 1269, but that knowledge of it which rendered it greatly

serviceable in voyages does not seem to be plainly indicated in any of

the charts of these transition centuries, till we find it laid down on

the maps of Andrea Bianco in 1436.

It was no new thing then when Columbus, as he sailed westward, marked

the variation, proceeding from the northeast more and more westerly; but

it was a revelation when he came to a position where the magnetic north

and the north star stood in conjunction, as they did on this 13th of

September, 1492. As he still moved westerly the magnetic line was found

to move farther and farther away from the pole as it had before the 13th

approached it. To an observer of Columbus's quick perceptions, there was

a ready guess to possess his mind. This inference was that this line of

no variation was a meridian line, and that divergence from it east and

west might have a regularity which would be found to furnish a method of

ascertaining longitude far easier and surer than tables or water clocks.

We know that four years later he tried to sail his ship on observations

of this kind. The same idea seems to have occurred to Sebastian Cabot,

when a little afterwards he approached and passed in a higher latitude,

what he supposed to be the meridian of no variation. Humboldt is

inclined to believe that the possibility of such a method of

ascertaining longitude was that uncommunicable secret, which Sebastian

Cabot many years later hinted at on his death-bed.

The claim was made near a century later by Livio Sanuto in his

_Geographia_, published at Venice, in 1588, that Sebastian Cabot had

been the first to observe this variation, and had explained it to

Edward VI., and that he had on a chart placed the line of no variation

at a point one hundred and ten miles west of the island of Flores in the

Azores.

These observations of Columbus and Cabot were not wholly accepted during

the sixteenth century. Robert Hues, in 1592, a hundred years later,

tells us that Medina, the Spanish grand pilot, was not disinclined to

believe that mariners saw more in it than really existed and that they

found it a convenient way to excuse their own blunders. Nonius was

credited with saying that it simply meant that worn-out magnets were

used, which had lost their power to point correctly to the pole. Others

had contended that it was through insufficient application of the

loadstone to the iron that it was so devious in its work.

What was thought possible by the early navigators possessed the minds of

all seamen in varying experiments for two centuries and a half. Though

not reaching such satisfactory results as were hoped for, the

expectation did not prove so chimerical as was sometimes imagined when

it was discovered that the lines of variation were neither parallel, nor

straight, nor constant. The line of no variation which Columbus found

near the Azores had moved westward with erratic inclinations, until

to-day it is not far from a straight line from Carolina to Guinea.

Science, beginning with its crude efforts at the hands of Alonzo de

Santa Cruz, in 1530, has so mapped the surface of the globe with

observations of its multifarious freaks of variation, and the changes

are so slow, that a magnetic chart is not a bad guide to-day for

ascertaining the longitude in any latitude for a few years neighbouring

to the date of its records. So science has come around in some measure

to the dreams of Columbus and Cabot.

But this was not the only development which came from this ominous day

in the mid-Atlantic in that September of 1492. The fancy of Columbus was

easily excited, and notions of a change of climate, and even aberration

of the stars were easily imagined by him amid the strange phenomena of

that untracked waste.

While Columbus was suspecting that the north star was somewhat wilfully

shifting from the magnetic pole, now to a distance of 5 deg. and then of

10 deg., the calculations of modern astronomers have gauged the polar

distance existing in 1492 at 3 deg. 28', as against the 1 deg. 20' of to-day.

The confusion of Columbus was very like his confounding an old world

with a new, inasmuch as he supposed it was the pole star and not the

needle which was shifting.

He argued from what he saw, or what he thought he saw, that the line of

no variation marked the beginning of a protuberance of the earth, up

which he ascended as he sailed westerly, and that this was the reason of

the cooler weather which he experienced. He never got over some notions

of this kind, and he believed he found confirmation of them in his later

voyages.

Even as early as the reign of Edward III. of England, Nicholas of Lynn,

a voyager to the northern seas, is thought to have definitely fixed the

magnetic pole in the Arctic regions, transmitting his views to Cnoyen,

the master of the later Mercator, in respect to the four circumpolar

islands, which in the sixteenth century made so constant a surrounding

of the north pole.

The next day (September 14), after these magnetic observations, a water

wagtail was seen from the _Nina_,--a bird which Columbus thought

unaccustomed to fly over twenty-five leagues from land, and the ships

were now, according to their reckoning, not far from two hundred leagues

from the Canaries. On Saturday they saw a distant bolt of fire fall into

the sea. On Sunday, they had a drizzling rain, followed by pleasant

weather, which reminded Columbus of the nightingales, gladdening the

climate of Andalusia in April. They found around the ships much green

floatage of weeds, which led them to think some islands must be near.

Navarrete thinks there was some truth in this, inasmuch as the charts of

the early part of this century represent breakers as having been seen in

1802, near the spot where Columbus can be computed to have been at this

time. Columbus was in fact within that extensive _prairie_ of floating

seaweed which is known as the Sargasso Sea, whose principal longitudinal

axis is found in modern times to lie along the parallel of 41 deg. 30', and

the best calculations which can be made from the rather uncertain data

of Columbus's journal seem to point to about the same position.

There is nothing in all these accounts, as we have them abridged by La

Casas, to indicate any great surprise, and certainly nothing of the

overwhelming fear which, the _Historie_ tells us, the sailors

experienced when they found their ships among these floating masses of

weeds, raising apprehension of a perpetual entanglement in their

swashing folds.

The next day (September 17) the currents became favourable, and the

weeds still floated about them. The variation of the needle now became

so great that the seamen were dismayed, as the journal says, and the

observation being repeated Columbus practised another deceit and made it

appear that there had been really no variation, but only a shifting of

the polar star! The weeds were now judged to be river weeds, and a live

crab was found among them,--a sure sign of near land, as Columbus

believed, or affected to believe. They killed a tunny and saw others.

They again observed a water wagtail, "which does not sleep at sea." Each

ship pushed on for the advance, for it was thought the goal was near.

The next day the _Pinta_ shot ahead and saw great flocks of birds

towards the west. Columbus conceived that the sea was growing, fresher.

Heavy clouds hung on the northern horizon, a sure sign of land, it was

supposed.

On the next day two pelicans came on board, and Columbus records that

these birds are not accustomed to go twenty leagues from land. So he

sounded with a line of two hundred fathoms to be sure he was not

approaching land; but no bottom was found. A drizzling rain also

betokened land, which they could not stop to find, but would search for

on their return, as the journal says. The pilots now compared their

reckonings. Columbus said they were 400 leagues, while the _Pinta's_

record showed 420, and the _Nina's_ 440.

On September 20 other pelicans came on board; and the ships were again

among the weeds. Columbus was determined to ascertain if these indicated

shoal water and sounded, but could not reach bottom. The men caught a

bird with feet like a gull; but they were convinced it was a river bird.

Then singing land birds, as was fancied, hovered about as it darkened,

but they disappeared before morning. Then a pelican was observed flying

to the southwest, and as "these birds sleep on shore, and go to sea in

the morning," the men encouraged themselves with the belief that they

could not be far from land. The next day a whale could be but another

indication of land; and the weeds covered the sea all about. On

Saturday, they steered west by northwest, and got clear of the weeds.

This change of course so far to the north, which had begun on the

previous day, was occasioned by a head wind, and Columbus says he

welcomed it, because it had the effect of convincing the sailors that

westerly winds to return by were not impossible. On Sunday (September

23), they found the wind still varying; but they made more westering

than before,--weeds, crabs, and birds still about them. Now there was

smooth water, which again depressed the seamen; then the sea arose,

mysteriously, for there was no wind to cause it. They still kept their

course westerly and continued it till the night of September 25.

Columbus at this time conferred with Pinzon, as to a chart which they

carried, which showed some islands, near where they now supposed the

ships to be. That they had not seen land, they believed was either due

to currents which had carried them too far north, or else their

reckoning was not correct. At sunset Pinzon hailed the Admiral, and said

he saw land, claiming the reward. The two crews were confident that such

was the case, and under the lead of their commanders they all kneeled

and repeated the _Gloria in Excelsis_. The land appeared to lie

southwest, and everybody saw the apparition. Columbus changed the

fleet's course to reach it; and as the vessels went on, in the smooth

sea, the men had the heart, under their expectation, to bathe in its

amber glories. On Wednesday, they were undeceived, and found that the

clouds had played them a trick. On the 27th their course lay more

directly west. So they went on, and still remarked upon all the birds

they saw and weed-drift which they pierced. Some of the fowl they

thought to be such as were common at the Cape Verde Islands, and were

not supposed to go far to sea. On the 30th of September, they still

observed the needles of their compasses to vary, but the journal records

that it was the pole star which moved, and not the needle. On October 1,

Columbus says they were 707 leagues from Ferro; but he had made his crew

believe they were only 584. As they went on, little new for the next few

days is recorded in the journal; but on October 3, they thought they saw

among the weeds something like fruits. By the 6th, Pinzon began to urge

a southwesterly course, in order to find the islands, which the signs

seemed to indicate in that direction. Still the Admiral would not swerve

from his purpose, and kept his course westerly. On Sunday the _Nina_

fired a bombard and hoisted a flag as a signal that she saw land, but it

proved a delusion. Observing towards evening a flock of birds flying to

the southwest, the Admiral yielded to Pinzon's belief, and shifted his

course to follow the birds. He records as a further reason for it that

it was by following the flights of birds that the Portuguese had been so

successful in discovering islands in other seas.

Columbus now found himself two hundred miles and more farther than the

three thousand miles west of Spain, where he supposed Cipango to lie,

and he was 25-1/2 deg. north of the equator, according to his astrolabe. The

true distance of Cipango or Japan was sixty-eight hundred miles still

farther, or beyond both North America and the Pacific. How much beyond

that island, in its supposed geographical position, Columbus expected to

find the Asiatic main we can only conjecture from the restorations which

modern scholars have made of Toscanelli's map, which makes the island

about 10 deg. east of Asia, and from Behaim's globe, which makes it 20 deg.. It

should be borne in mind that the knowledge of its position came from

Marco Polo, and he does not distinctly say how far it was from the

Asiatic coast. In a general way, as to these distances from Spain to

China, Toscanelli and Behaim agreed, and there is no reason to believe

that the views of Columbus were in any noteworthy degree different.

In the trial years afterward, when the Fiscal contested the rights of

Diego Colon, it was put in evidence by one Vallejo, a seaman, that

Pinzon was induced to urge the direction to be changed to the southwest,

because he had in the preceding evening observed a flight of parrots in

that direction, which could have only been seeking land. It was the main

purpose of the evidence in this part of the trial to show that Pinzon

had all along forced Columbus forward against his will.

How pregnant this change of course in the vessels of Columbus was has

not escaped the observation of Humboldt and many others. A day or two

further on his westerly way, and the Gulf Stream would, perhaps,

insensibly have borne the little fleet up the Atlantic coast of the

future United States, so that the banner of Castile might have been

planted at Carolina.

On the 7th of October, Columbus was pretty nearly in latitude 25 deg.

50',--that of one of the Bahama Islands. Just where he was by longitude

there is much more doubt, probably between 65 deg. and 66 deg.. On the next day

the land birds flying along the course of the ships seemed to confirm

their hopes. On the 10th the journal records that the men began to lose

patience; but the Admiral reassured them by reminding them of the

profits in store for them, and of the folly of seeking to return when

they had already gone so far.

It is possible that, in this entry, Columbus conceals the story which

came out later in the recital of Oviedo, with more detail than in the

_Historie_ and Las Casas, that the rebellion of his crew was threatening

enough to oblige him to promise to turn back if land was not discovered

in three days. Most commentators, however, are inclined to think that

this story of a mutinous revolt was merely engrafted from hearsay or

other source by Oviedo upon the more genuine recital, and that the

conspiracy to throw the Admiral into the sea has no substantial basis in

contemporary report. Irving, who has a dramatic tendency throughout his

whole account of the voyage to heighten his recital with touches of the

imagination, nevertheless allows this, and thinks that Oviedo was

misled by listening to a pilot, who was a personal enemy of the Admiral.

The elucidations of the voyage which were drawn out in the famous suit

of Diego with the Crown in 1513 and 1515, afford no ground for any

belief in this story of the mutiny and the concession of Columbus to it.

It is not, however, difficult to conceive the recurrent fears of his men

and the incessant anxiety of Columbus to quiet them. From what Peter

Martyr tells us,--and he may have got it directly from Columbus's

lips,--the task was not an easy one to preserve subordination and to

instil confidence. He represents that Columbus was forced to resort in

turn to argument, persuasion and enticements, and to picture the

misfortunes of the royal displeasure.

The next day, notwithstanding a heavier sea than they had before

encountered, certain signs sufficed to lift them out of their

despondency. These were floating logs, or pieces of wood, one of them

apparently carved by hand, bits of cane, a green rush, a stalk of rose

berries and other drifting tokens.

Their southwesterly course had now brought them down to about the

twenty-fourth parallel, when after sunset on the 11th they shifted their

course to due west, while the crew of the Admiral's ship united, with

more fervour than usual, in the _Salve Regina_. At about ten o'clock

Columbus, peering into the night, thought he saw--if we may believe

him--a moving light, and pointing out the direction to Pero Gutierrez,

this companion saw it too; but another, Rodrigo Sanchez, situated

apparently on another part of the vessel, was not able to see it. It was

not brought to the attention of any others. The Admiral says that the

light seemed to be moving up and down, and he claimed to have got other

glimpses of its glimmer at a later moment. He ordered the _Salve_ to be

chanted, and directed a vigilant watch to be set on the forecastle. To

sharpen their vision he promised a silken jacket, beside the income of

ten thousand maravedis which the King and Queen had offered to the

fortunate man who should first descry the coveted land.

This light has been the occasion of such comment, and nothing will ever,

it is likely, be settled about it, further than that the Admiral, with

an inconsiderate rivalry of a common sailor, who later saw the actual

land, and with an ungenerous assurance, ill-befitting a commander,

pocketed a reward which belonged to another. If Oviedo, with his

prejudices, is to be believed, Columbus was not even the first who

claimed to have seen this dubious light. There is a common story that

the poor sailor, who was defrauded, later turned Mohammedan and went to

live among that juster people. There is a sort of retributive justice in

the fact that the pension of the Crown was made a charge upon the

shambles of Seville, and thence Columbus received it till he died.

Whether the light is to be considered a reality or a fiction will depend

much on the theory each may hold regarding the position of the landfall.

When Columbus claimed to have discovered it, he was twelve or fourteen

leagues away from the island, where four hours later land was

indubitably found. Was the light on a canoe? Was it on some small,

outlying island, as has been suggested? Was it a torch carried from hut

to hut, as Herrera avers? Was it on either of the other vessels? Was it

on the low island on which, the next morning he landed? There was no

elevation on that island sufficient to show even a strong light at a

distance of ten leagues. Was it a fancy or a deceit? No one can say. It

is very difficult for Navarrete, and even for Irving, to rest satisfied

with what after all may have been only an illusion of a fevered mind,

making a record of the incident in the excitement of a wonderful hour,

when his intelligence was not as circumspect as it might have been.

Four hours after the light was seen, at two o'clock in the morning, when

the moon, near its third quarter, was in the east, the _Pinta_, keeping

ahead, one of her sailors, Rodrigo de Triane descried the land two

leagues away, and a gun communicated the joyful intelligence to the

other ships. The fleet took in sail, and each vessel, under backed

canvas, was pointed to the wind. Thus they waited for daybreak. It was a

proud moment of painful suspense for Columbus; and brimming hopes,

perhaps fears of disappointment, must have accompanied that hour of

wavering enchantment. It was Friday, October 12, of the old chronology,

and the little fleet had been thirty-three days on its way from the

Canaries, and we must add ten days more to complete the period since

they left Palos. The land before them was seen, as the day dawned, to be

a small island, "called in the Indian tongue" Guanahani. Some naked

natives were descried. The Admiral and the commanders of the other

vessels prepared to land. Columbus took the royal standard and the

others each a banner of the green cross, which bore the initials of the

sovereign with a cross between, a crown surmounting every letter. Thus,

with the emblems of their power, and accompanied by Rodrigo de Escoveda

and Rodrigo Sanchez and some seamen, the boat rowed to the shore. They

immediately took formal possession of the land, and the notary recorded

it.

The words of the prayer usually given as uttered by Columbus on taking

possession of San Salvador, when he named the island, cannot be traced

farther back than a collection of _Tablas Chronologicas_, got together

at Valencia in 1689, by a Jesuit father, Claudio Clemente. Harrisse

finds no authority for the statement of the French canonizers that

Columbus established a form of prayer which was long in vogue, for such

occupations of new lands.

Las Casas, from whom we have the best account of the ceremonies of the

landing, does not mention it; but we find pictured in his pages the

grave impressiveness of the hour; the form of Columbus, with a crimson

robe over his armour, central and grand; and the humbleness of his

followers in their contrition for the hours of their faint-heartedness.

Columbus now enters in his journal his impressions of the island and its

inhabitants. He says of the land that it bore green trees, was watered

by many streams, and produced divers fruits. In another place he speaks

of the island as flat, without lofty eminence, surrounded by reefs, with

a lake in the interior.

The courses and distances of his sailing both before and on leaving the

island, as well as this description, are the best means we have of

identifying the spot of this portentous landfall. The early maps may

help in a subsidiary way, but with little precision.

There is just enough uncertainty and contradiction respecting the data

and arguments applied in the solution of this question, to render it

probable that men will never quite agree which of the Bahamas it was

upon which these startled and exultant Europeans first stepped. Though

Las Casas reports the journal of Columbus unabridged for a period after

the landfall, he unfortunately condenses it for some time previous.

There is apparently no chance of finding geographical conditions that in

every respect will agree with this record of Columbus, and we must

content ourselves with what offers the fewest disagreements. An obvious

method, if we could depend on Columbus's dead reckoning, would be to see

for what island the actual distance from the Canaries would be nearest

to his computed run; but currents and errors of the eye necessarily

throw this sort of computation out of the question, and Captain G. A.

Fox, who has tried it, finds that Cat Island is three hundred and

seventeen, the Grand Turk six hundred and twenty-four nautical miles,

and the other supposable points at intermediate distances out of the way

as compared with his computation of the distance run by Columbus, three

thousand four hundred and fifty-eight of such miles.

The reader will remember the Bahama group as a range of islands, islets,

and rocks, said to be some three thousand in number, running southeast

from a point part way up the Florida coast, and approaching at the other

end the coast of Hispaniola. In the latitude of the lower point of

Florida, and five degrees east of it, is the island of San Salvador or

Cat Island, which is the most northerly of those claimed to have been

the landfall of Columbus. Proceeding down the group, we encounter

Watling's, Samana, Acklin (with the Plana Cays), Mariguana, and the

Grand Turk,--all of which have their advocates. The three methods of

identification which have been followed are, first, by plotting the

outward track; second, by plotting the track between the landfall and

Cuba, both forward and backward; third, by applying the descriptions,

particularly Columbus's, of the island first seen. In this last test,

Harrisse prefers to apply the description of Las Casas, which is

borrowed in part from that of the _Historie_, and he reconciles

Columbus's apparent discrepancy when he says in one place that the

island was "pretty large," and in another "small," by supposing that he

may have applied these opposite terms, the lesser to the Plana Cays, as

first seen, and the other to the Crooked Group, or Acklin Island, lying

just westerly, on which he may have landed. Harrisse is the only one who

makes this identification; and he finds some confirmation in later maps,

which show thereabout an island, Triango or Triangulo, a name said by

Las Casas to have been applied to Guanahani at a later day. There is no

known map earlier than 1540 bearing this alternative name of Triango.

San Salvador seems to have been the island selected by the earliest of

modern inquirers in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, and it has

had the support of Irving and Humboldt in later times. Captain Alexander

Slidell Mackenzie of the United States navy worked out the problem for

Irving. It is much larger than any of the other islands, and could

hardly have been called by Columbus in any alternative way a "small"

island, while it does not answer Columbus's description of being level,

having on it an eminence of four hundred feet, and no interior lagoon,

as his Guanahani demands. The French canonizers stand by the old

traditions, and find it meet to say that "the English Protestants not

finding the name of San Salvador fine enough have substituted for it

that of Cat, and in their hydrographical atlases the Island of the Holy

Saviour is nobly called Cat Island."

The weight of modern testimony seems to favour Watling's Island, and it

so far answers Columbus's description that about one-third of its

interior is water, corresponding to his "large lagoon." Munoz first

suggested it in 1793; but the arguments in its favour were first spread

out by Captain Becher of the royal navy in 1856, and he seems to have

induced Oscar Peschel in 1858 to adopt the same views in his history of

the range of modern discovery. Major, the map custodian of the British

Museum, who had previously followed Navarrete in favouring the Grand

Turk, again addressed himself to the problem in 1870, and fell into line

with the adherents of Watling's. No other considerable advocacy of this

island, if we except the testimony of Gerard Stein in 1883, in a book on

voyages of discovery, appeared till Lieutenant J. B. Murdoch, an officer

of the American navy, made a very careful examination of the subject in

the _Proceedings of the United States Naval Institute_ in 1884, which is

accepted by Charles A. Schott in the _Bulletin of the United States

Coast Survey_. Murdoch was the first to plot in a backward way the track

between Guanahani and Cuba, and he finds more points of resemblance in

Columbus's description with Watling's than with any other. The latest

adherent is the eminent geographer, Clements R. Markham, in the bulletin

of the Italian Geographical Society in 1889. Perhaps no cartographical

argument has been so effective as that of Major in comparing modern

charts with the map of Herrera, in which the latter lays Guanahani down.

An elaborate attempt to identity Samana as the landfall was made by the

late Captain Gustavus Vasa Fox, in an appendix to the _Report of the

United States Coast Survey_ for 1880. Varnhagen, in 1864, selected

Mariguana, and defended his choice in a paper. This island fails to

satisfy the physical conditions in being without interior water. Such a

qualification, however, belongs to the Grand Turk Island, which was

advocated first by Navarrete in 1826, whose views have since been

supported by George Gibbs, and for a while by Major.

It is rather curious to note that Caleb Cushing, who undertook to

examine this question in the _North American Review_, under the guidance

of Navarrete's theory, tried the same backward method which has been

later applied to the problem, but with quite different results from

those reached by more recent investigators. He says, "By setting out

from Nipe which is the point where Columbus struck Cuba and proceeding

in a retrograde direction along his course, we may surely trace his

path, and shall be convinced that Guanahani is no other than Turk's

Island."

[Illustration: THE LANDFALL OF COLUMBUS, 1492. [After Ruge.]

_Key:_

-- -- according to Munoz and Becher. ---- Irving and Humboldt.

-+-+ Varnhagen --.--. Navarrete.

]

LEWIS AND CLARKE REACH THE PACIFIC OCEAN

[In 1804-6 Captains Lewis and Clarke, by order of the

Government of the United States, commanded an expedition to

the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky

Mountains and down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean.

Chapter IV., which follows, is taken from the second volume

of the History of the Expedition, published by Harper &

Brothers, New York, 1842. The matter of the original journal

is indicated by inverted commas, and where portions of it

embracing minute and uninteresting particulars, have been

omitted, the leading facts have been briefly stated by the

editor, Archibald McVickar, in his own words, so that the

connection of the narrative is preserved unbroken and nothing

of importance is lost to the reader. The History of the

Expedition, edited, with notes by Elliott Coues, was

published in 1893 in four volumes by Francis P. Harper, New

York. This edition surpasses every other in its excellence:

it has passed out of print, but may be found in many public

libraries. In 1901 Houghton, Mifflin & Co., Boston, published

"Lewis and Clark," by Wm. R. Lighton: within one hundred and

fifty-nine small pages the story of the famous expedition is

admirably condensed. Good portraits of Lewis and Clark form

the frontispiece.]

"_November 2, 1805._ We now examined the rapid below more particularly,

and the danger appearing to be too great for the loaded canoes, all

those who could not swim were sent with the baggage by land. The canoes

then passed safely down and were reloaded. At the foot of the rapid we

took a meridian altitude and found our latitude to be 59 deg. 45' 45"."

This rapid forms the last of the descents of the Columbia; and

immediately below it the river widens, and tidewater commences. Shortly

after starting they passed an island three miles in length and to which,

from that plant being seen on it in great abundance, they gave the name

of Strawberry Island. Directly beyond were three small islands, and in

the meadow to the right, at some distance from the hills in the

background was a single perpendicular rock, which they judged to be no

less than eight hundred feet high and four hundred yards at the base,

which they called Beacon Rock. A little farther on they found the river

a mile in breadth, and double this breadth four miles beyond. After

making twenty-nine miles from the foot of the Great Shoot, they halted

for the night at a point where the river was two and a half miles wide.

The character of the country they had passed through during the day was

very different from that they had lately been accustomed to, the hills

being thickly covered with timber, chiefly of the pine species. The tide

rose at their encampment about nine inches, and they saw great numbers

of water-fowl, such as swan, geese, ducks of various kinds, gulls, etc.

The next day, _November 3d_, they set off in company with some Indians

who had joined them the evening before. At the distance of three miles

they passed a river on the left, to which, from the quantity of sand it

bears along with it, they gave the name of Quicksand River. So great,

indeed, was the quantity it had discharged into the Columbia, that the

river was compressed to the width of half a mile, and the whole force of

the current thrown against the right shore. Opposite this was a large

creek, which they called Seal River. The mountain which they had

supposed to be the Mount Hood of Vancouver, now bore S. 85 deg. E., about

forty-seven miles distant. About three miles farther on they passed the

lower mouth of Quicksand River, opposite to which was another large

creek, and near it the head of an island three miles and a half in

extent; and half a mile beyond it was another island, which they called

Diamond Island, opposite to which they encamped, having made but

thirteen miles' distance. Here they met with some Indians ascending the

river, who stated that they had seen three vessels at its mouth.

"Below Quicksand River," says the Journal, "the country is low, rich,

and thickly wooded on each side of the Columbia; the islands have less

timber, and on them are numerous ponds, near which were vast quantities

of fowl, such as swan, geese, brant, cranes, storks, white-gulls,

cormorants, and plover. The river is wide and contains a great number of

sea-otters. In the evening the hunters brought in game for a sumptuous

supper."

In continuing their descent the next day, they found Diamond Island to

be six miles in length and three broad; and near its termination were

two other islands. "Just below the last of these," proceeds the

narrative, "we landed on the left bank of the river, at a village of

twenty-five houses, all of which were thatched with straw, and built of

bark except one, which was about fifty feet long and constructed of

boards, in the form of those higher up the river, from which it

differed, however, in being completely above ground, and covered with

broad, split boards. This village contained about two hundred men of the

Skilloot nation, who seemed well provided with canoes, of which there

were at least fifty-two, and some of them very large, drawn up in front

of the village. On landing, we found an Indian from above, who had left

us this morning, and who now invited us into a lodge of which he

appeared to be part owner. Here he treated us with a root, round in

shape and about the size of a small Irish potato, which they call

_wappatoo_: it is the common arrow-head or _sagittifolia_ so much

cultivated by the Chinese, and, when roasted in the embers till it

becomes soft, has an agreeable taste, and is a very good substitute for

bread. After purchasing some of this root we resumed our journey, and at

seven miles' distance came to the head of a large island near the left

bank. On the right shore was a fine open prairie for about a mile, back

of which the country rises, and is well supplied with timber, such as

white oak, pine of different kinds, wild crab, and several species of

undergrowth, while along the borders of the river there were only a few

cottonwood and ash trees. In this prairie were also signs of deer and

elk.

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