from _Virginia_ to the West of _Carolina_, and other parts of the
Continent.
_A General and brief Account of the North-~American~ Continent._
North, as well as South-_America_, may be divided into three Regions: the
Flats, the Highlands, and the Mountains. The Flats (in Indian, _Ahkynt_)
is the Territory lying between the Eastern Coast, and the falls of the
great Rivers, that there run into the _Atlantick_ Ocean, in extent
generally taken Ninety miles. The Highlands (in Indian, _Ahkontshuck_)
begin at those falls, and determine at the foot of the great ridge
of Mountains that runs thorow the midst of this Continent, Northeast
and Southwest, called by the Spaniards _Apalatæi_, from the Nation
_Apalakin_; and by the Indians, _Pæmotinck_. According to the best of
my observation and conjecture, they lie parallel to the _Atlantick_
Sea-coast, that bearing from _Canada_ to Cape _Florida_, Northeast and
Southwest, and then falling off due West as the Mountains do at _Sara_:
but here they take the name of _Suala_; _Sara_ in the _Warrennuncock_
dialect being _Sasa_ or _Sualy_.
The Flats, or _Ahkynt_, are by former Writers made so well known to
Christendom, that I will not stop the Reader here, with an unnecessary
description of them; but shall onely say, that by the rankness of the
Soyl, and salt moistness of the Air, daily discoveries of Fish-shells
three fathom deep in the earth, and Indian tradition; these parts are
supposed some Ages past to have lain under the Sea.
The Highlands (or _Ahkontshuch_) though under the same Parallels, are
happie notwithstanding in a more temperate and healthful Air. The ground
is over-grown with under-wood in many places, and that so perplext and
interwoven with Vines, that who travels here, must sometimes cut through
his way. These Thickets harbour all sorts of beasts of prey, as Wolves,
Panthers, Leopards, Lions, _&c._ (which are neither so large nor so
fierce as those of _Asia_ and _Africa_) and small Vermine, as wilde Cats,
Foxes, Racoons. These parts were formerly possessed by the _Tacci_,
aliàs _Dogi_; but they are extinct; and the Indians now seated here,
are distinguished into the several Nations of _Mahoe_, _Nuntaneuck_,
aliàs _Nuntaly_, _Nabyssan_, _Sapon_, _Managog_, _Mangoack_, _Akenatzy_,
and _Monakin_, &c. One Language is common to them all, though they
differ in Dialects. The parts inhabited here are pleasant and fruitful,
because cleared of Wood, and laid open to the Sun. The Valleys feed
numerous herds of Deer and Elks larger then Oxen: these Valleys they call
_Savanæ_, being Marish grounds at the foot of the _Apalatæi_, and yearly
laid under water in the beginning of Summer by flouds of melted Snow
falling down from the Mountains.
The _Apalatæan_ Mountains, called in Indian _Pæmotinck_, (or the
origine of the Indians) are barren Rocks, and therefore deserted by
all living creatures but Bears, who cave in the hollow Cliffs. Yet do
these Mountains shoot out to the Eastward great Promontories of rich
Land, known by the high and spreading trees which they bear: these
Promontories, because lower then the main Ridge, are called by the
Indians _Tanx-Pæmotinck_ (aliàs _Aquatt_). To the Northeast the Mountains
rise higher; and at _Sara_ they sink so low, that they are easily passed
over: but here (as was said before) they change their course and name,
running due West, and being called _Sualy_: now the _Sualian_ Mountains
rise higher and higher Westward.
_Of the Manners and Customs of the ~Indians~ inhabiting the Western parts
of ~Carolina~ and ~Virginia~._
The Indians now seated in these parts, are none of those which the
English removed from _Virginia_, but a people driven by an Enemy from the
Northwest, and invited to sit down here by an Oracle above four hundred
years since, as they pretend: for the ancient inhabitants of _Virginia_
were far more rude and barbarous, feeding onely upon raw flesh and fish,
until these taught them to plant Corn, and shewed them the use of it.
But before I treat of their ancient Manners and Customs, it is necessary
I should shew by what means the knowledge of them hath been conveyed from
former ages to posterity. Three ways they supply their want of Letters:
first by Counters, secondly by Emblems or Hieroglyphicks, thirdly by
Tradition delivered in long Tales from father to son, which being
children they are made to learn by rote.
For Counters, they use either Pebbles, or short scantlings of straw or
reeds. Where a Battel has been fought, or a Colony seated, they raise
a small Pyramid of these stones, consisting of the number slain or
transplanted. Their reeds and straws serve them in Religious Ceremonies:
for they lay them orderly in a Circle when they prepare for Devotion
or Sacrifice; and that performed, the Circle remains still, for it is
Sacriledge to disturb or to touch it: the disposition and sorting of the
straws and reeds, shew what kinde of Rites have there been celebrated, as
Invocation, Sacrifice, Burial, _&c._
The faculties of the minde and body they commonly express by Emblems. By
the figure of a Stag, they imply swiftness; by that of a Serpent, wrath;
of a Lion, courage; of a Dog, fidelity: by a Swan, they signifie the
_English_, alluding to their complexion, and flight over the Sea.
An account of Time, and other things, they keep on a string or leather
thong tied in knots of several colours. I took particular notice of small
Wheels serving for this purpose amongst the _Oenocks_, because I have
heard that the _Mexicans_ use the same. Every Nation gives his particular
Ensigne or Arms: The _Sasquesahanaugh_ a Tarapine, or small Tortoise; the
_Akenatzy’s_ a Serpent; the _Nahyssanes_ three Arrows, _&c._ In this they
likewise agree with the _Mexican_ Indians. _Vid. Jos. à Costa._
They worship one God, Creator of all things, whom some call _Okæè_,
others _Mannith_: to him alone the High-priest, or _Periku_, offers
Sacrifice; and yet they believe he has no regard to sublunary
affairs, but commits the Government of Mankinde to lesser Deities, as
_Quiacosough_ and _Tagkanysough_, that is, good and evil Spirits: to
these the inferiour Priests pay their devotion and Sacrifice, at which
they make recitals, to a lamentable Tune, of the great things done by
their Ancestors.
From four women, _viz._ _Pash_, _Sepoy_, _Askarin_, and _Maraskarin_,
they derive the Race of Mankinde; which they therefore divide into four
Tribes, distinguished under those several names. They very religiously
observe the degrees of Marriage, which they limit not to distance of
Kindred, but difference of Tribes, which are continued in the issue of
the Females: now for two of the same Tribe to match, is abhorred as
Incest, and punished with great severity.
Their places of Burial they divide into four quarters, assigning to every
Tribe one: for, to mingle their bodies, even when dead, they hold wicked
and ominous. They commonly wrap up the corpse in beasts skins, and bury
with it Provision and Houshold stuff for its use in the other world.
When their great men die, they likewise slay prisoners of War to attend
them. They believe the transmigration of souls: for the Angry they say is
possest with the spirit of a Serpent; the Bloudy, with that of a Wolf;
the Timorous, of a Deer; the Faithful, of a Dog, _&c._ and therefore they
are figured by these Emblemes.
_Elizium_, or the abode of their lesser Deities, they place beyond the
Mountains and Indian Ocean.
Though they want those means of improving Humane Reason, which the
use of Letters affords us; let us not therefore conclude them wholly
destitute of Learning and Sciences: for by these little helps which they
have found, many of them advance their natural understandings to great
knowledge in Physick, Rhetorick, and Policie of Government: for I have
been present at several of their Consultations and Debates, and to my
admiration have heard some of their Seniors deliver themselves with as
much Judgement and Eloquence as I should have expected from men of Civil
education and Literature.
The First EXPEDITION,
From the head of _Pemæoncock_, aliàs _York-River_ (due West) to the top
of the _Apalatæan_ Mountains.
Upon the ninth of _March 1669_ (with three Indians whose names were
_Magtakunh_, _Hopottoguoh_, and _Naunnugh_) I went out at the falls of
_Pemæoncock_, aliàs _York-River_ in _Virginia_, from an Indian Village
called _Shickehamany_, and lay that night in the Woods, encountring
nothing remarkable, but a Rattle-snake of an extraordinary, length and
thickness, for I judged it two yards and a half or better from head to
tail, and as big about as a mans arm: by the distention of her belly, we
believed her full with young; but having killed and opened her, found
there a small Squirrel whole; which caused in me a double wonder: first,
how a Reptile should catch so nimble a creature as a Squirrel; and having
caught it, how she could swallow it entire. The Indians in resolving my
doubts, plunged me into a greater astonishment, when they told me that
it was usual in these Serpents, when they lie basking in the Sun, to
fetch down these Squirrels from the tops of trees, by fixing their eye
stedfastly upon them; the horrour of which strikes such an affrightment
into the little beast, that he has no power to hinder himself from
tumbling down into the jaws of his enemy, who takes in all his sustenance
without chewing, his teeth serving him onely to offend withal. But I
rather believe what I have heard from others, that these Serpents climb
the trees, and surprise their prey in the nest.
The next day falling into Marish grounds between _Pemæoncock_ and the
head of the River _Matapeneugh_, the heaviness of the way obliged me to
cross _Pemæoncock_, where its North and South-branch (called _Ackmick_)
joyn in one. In the Peninsula made by these two branches, a great Indian
King called _Tottopottoma_ was heretofore slain in Battel, fighting for
the Christians against the _Mahocks_ and _Nahyssans_, from whence it
retains his name to this day. Travelling thorow the Woods, a Doe seized
by a wild Cat crossed our way; the miserable creature being even spent
and breathless with the burden and cruelty of her rider, who having
fastned on her shoulder, left not sucking out her bloud until she sunk
under him: which one of the Indians perceiving, let flie a luckie Arrow,
which piercing him thorow the belly, made him quit his prey already
slain, and turn with a terrible grimas at us; but his strength and
spirits failing him, we escaped his revenge, which had certainly ensued,
were not his wound mortal. This creature is something bigger then our
English Fox, of a reddish grey colour, and in figure every way agreeing
with an ordinary Cat; fierce, ravenous and cunning: for finding the Deer
(upon which they delight most to prey) too swift for them, they watch
upon branches of trees, and as they walk or feed under, jump down upon
them. The Fur of the wilde Cat, though not very fine, is yet esteemed for
its vertue in taking away cold Aches and Pains, being worn next to the
body: their flesh, though rank as a Dogs, is eaten by the Indians.
The eleventh and twelfth, I found the ways very uneven, and cumbred with
bushes.
The thirteenth, I reached the first Spring of _Pemæoncock_, having
crossed the River four times that day, by reason of its many windings;
but the water was so shallow, that it hardly wet my horses pasterns. Here
a little under the surface of the earth, I found flat pieces of petrified
matter, of one side solid Stone, but on the other side Isinglas, which I
easily peeled off in flakes about four inches square: several of these
pieces, with a transparent Stone like Crystal that cut Glass, and a white
Marchasite that I purchased of the Indians, I presented to Sir _Wiliam
Berkley_ Governour of _Virginia_.
The fourteenth of _March_, from the top of an eminent hill, I first
descried the _Apalatæan_ Mountains, bearing due West to the place I stood
upon: their distance from me was so great, that I could hardly discern
whether they were Mountains or Clouds, until my Indian fellow travellers
prostrating themselves in Adoration, howled out after a barbarous manner,
_Okée pœze_, i. e. _God is nigh_.
The fifteenth of _March_, not far from this hill, passing over the
South-branch of _Rappahanock_-river, I was almost swallowed in a
Quicksand. Great herds of Red and Fallow Deer I daily saw feeding; and
on the hill-sides, Bears crashing Mast like Swine. Small Leopards I have
seen in the Woods, but never any Lions, though their skins are much worn
by the Indians. The Wolves in these parts are so ravenous, that I often
in the night feared my horse would be devoured by them, they would gather
up and howl so close round about him, though Tether’d to the same tree at
whose foot I my self and the Indians lay: but the Fires which we made, I
suppose, scared them from worrying us all. Beaver and Otter I met with at
every River that I passed; and the Woods are full of Grey Foxes.
Thus I travelled all the sixteenth; and on the seventeenth of _March_ I
reached the _Apalatæi_. The Air here is very thick and chill; and the
waters issuing from the Mountain-sides, of a Blue colour, and Allumish
taste.
The eighteenth of _March_, after I had in vain assayed to ride up, I
alighted, and left my horse with one of the Indians, whilst with the
other two I climbed up the Rocks, which were so incumbred with bushes
and brambles, that the ascent proved very difficult: besides, the first
precipice was so steep, that if I lookt down, I was immediately taken
with a swimming in my head; though afterwards the way was more easie.
The height of this Mountain was very extraordinary: for notwithstanding
I set out with the first appearance of light, it was late in the evening
before I gained the top, from whence the next morning I had a beautiful
prospect of the _Atlantick_-Ocean washing the _Virginian_-shore; but to
the North and West, my sight was suddenly bounded by Mountains higher
than that I stood upon. Here did I wander in Snow, for the most part,
till the Four and twentieth day of _March_, hoping to finde some passage
through the Mountains; but the coldness of the Air and Earth together,
seizing my Hands and Feet with numbness, put me to a _ne plus ultra_; and
therefore having found my _Indian_ at the foot of the Mountain with my
Horse, I returned back by the same way that I went.
The Second EXPEDITION,
From the Falls of _Powhatan_, aliàs _James-River_, in _Virginia_, to
_Mahock_ in the _Apalatæan_ Mountains.
The twentieth of _May_ 1670, one Major _Harris_ and my self, with
twenty _Christian_ Horse, and five _Indians_, marched from the Falls of
_James-River_, in _Virginia_, towards the _Monakins_; and on the Two
and twentieth were welcomed by them with Volleys of Shot. Near this
Village we observed a Pyramid of stones piled up together, which their
Priests told us, was the Number of an _Indian_ Colony drawn out by Lot
from a Neighbour-Countrey over-peopled, and led hither by one _Monack_,
from whom they take the Name of _Monakin_. Here enquiring the way to
the Mountains, an ancient Man described with a staffe two paths on the
ground; one pointing to the _Mahocks_, and the other to the _Nahyssans_;
but my _English_ Companions slighting the _Indians_ direction, shaped
their course by the Compass due West, and therefore it fell out with us,
as it does with those Land-Crabs, that crawling backwards in a direct
line, avoid not the Trees that stand in their way, but climbing over
their very tops, come down again on the other side, and so after a days
labour gain not above two foot of ground. Thus we obstinately pursuing a
due West course, rode over steep and craggy Cliffs, which beat our Horses
quite off the hoof. In these Mountains we wandred from the Twenty fifth
of _May_ till the Third of _June_, finding very little sustenance for Man
or Horse; for these places are destitute both of Grain and Herbage.
The third of _June_ we came to the South-branch of _James_-River, which
Major _Harris_ observing to run Northward, vainly imagined to be an Arm
of the Lake of _Canada_; and was so transported with this Fancy, that he
would have raised a Pillar to the Discovery, if the fear of the _Mahock
Indian_, and want of food, had permitted him to stay. Here I moved to
cross the River and march on; but the rest of the Company were so weary
of the enterprize, that crying out, _One and All_, they had offered
violence to me, had I not been provided with a private Commission from
the Governour of _Virginia_ to proceed, though the rest of the company
should abandon me; the sight of which laid their fury.
The lesser Hills, or _Akontshuck_, are here unpassable, being both steep
and craggy: the Rocks seemed to me at a distance to resemble Eggs set up
an end.
_James_-River is here as broad as it is about an hundred mile lower at
_Monakin_; the passage over is very dangerous, by reason of the rapid
Torrents made by Rocks and Shelves forcing the water into narrow Chanels.
From an observation which we made of straws and rotten chuncks hanging in
the boughs of Trees on the Bank, and two and twenty foot above water, we
argued that the melted Snow falling from the Mountains swelled the River
to that height, the Flood carrying down that rubbish which, upon the
abatement of the Inundation, remained in the Trees.
The Air in these parts was so moist, that all our Biscuit became mouldy
and unfit to be eaten, so that some nicer stomachs, who at our setting
out laughed at my provision of _Indian_-meal parched, would gladly
now have shared with me: but I being determined to go upon further
Discoveries, refused to part with any of that which was to be my most
necessary sustenance.
_The Continuation of the ~Second Expedition~ from ~Mahock~, Southward,
into the Province of ~Carolina~._
The fifth of _June_, my Company and I parted good friends, they back
again, and I with one _Sasquesahanough-Indian_, named _Jackzetavon_,
only, in pursuit of my first Enterprize, changing my course from West
to Southwest & by South, to avoid the Mountains. Major _Harris_ at
parting gave me a Gun, believing me a lost man, and given up as a prey to
_Indians_ or savage Beasts; which made him the bolder in _Virginia_ to
report strange things in his own praise and my disparagement, presuming
I would never appear to disprove him. This, I suppose, and no other, was
the cause that he did with so much industry procure me discredit and
odium; but I have lost nothing by it, but what I never studied to gain,
which is Popular applause.
From the fifth, which was _Sunday_, until the ninth of _June_, I
travelled through difficult Ways, without seeing any Town or _Indian_;
and then I arrived at _Sapon_, a Village of the _Nahyssans_, about
an hundred miles distant from _Mahock_, scituate upon a branch of
_Shawan_, aliàs _Rorenock_-River; and though I had just cause to fear
these _Indians_, because they had been in continual Hostility with the
_Christians_ for ten years before; yet presuming that the Truck which
I carried with me would procure my welcome, I adventured to put my self
into their power, having heard that they never offer any injury to a
few persons from whom they apprehend no danger: nevertheless, they
examined me strictly whence I came, whither I went, and what my business
was. But after I had bestowed some trifles of Glass and Metal amongst
them, they were satisfied with reasonable answers, and I received with
all imaginable demonstrations of kindness, as offering of Sacrifice, a
complement shewed only to such as they design particularly to honour:
but they went further, and consulted their Godds whether they should not
admit me into their Nation and Councils, and oblige me to stay amongst
them by a Marriage with the Kings or some of their great Mens Daughters.
But I, though with much a-do, waved their courtesie, and got my Pastport,
having given my word to return to them within six months.
_Sapon_ is within the limits of the Province of _Carolina_, and as
you may perceive by the Figure, has all the attributes requisite to a
pleasant and advantagious Seat; for though it stands high, and upon a dry
land, it enjoyes the benefit of a stately River, and a rich Soyl, capable
of producing many Commodities, which may hereafter render the Trade of it
considerable.
Not far distant from hence, as I understood from the _Nahyssan_ Indians,
is their Kings Residence, called _Pintahæ_, upon the same River, and
happy in the same advantages both for pleasure and profit: which my
curiosity would have led me to see, were I not bound, both by Oath and
Commission, to a direct pursuance of my intended purpose of discovering a
passage to the further side of the Mountains.
This Nation is governed by an absolute Monarch; the People of a high
stature, warlike and rich. I saw great store of Pearl unbored in their
little Temples, or Oratories, which they had won amongst other spoyls
from the Indians of _Florida_, and hold in as great esteem as we do.
From hence, by the Indians instructions, I directed my course to
_Akenatzy_, an Island bearing South & by West, and about fifty miles
distant, upon a branch of the same River, from _Sapon_. The Countrey
here, though high, is level, and for the most part a rich soyl, as I
judged by the growth of the Trees; yet where it is inhabited by Indians,
it lies open in spacious Plains, and is blessed with a very healthful
Air, as appears by the age and vigour of the people; and though I
travelled in the month of _June_, the heat of the weather hindred me not
from Riding at all hours without any great annoyance from the Sun. By
easie journeys I landed at _Akenatzy_ upon the twelfth of _June_. The
current of the River is here so strong, that my Horse had much difficulty
to resist it; and I expected every step to be carried away with the
stream.
This Island, though small, maintains many inhabitants, who are fix’d
here in great security, being naturally fortified with Fastnesses of
Mountains, and Water of every side. Upon the North-shore they yearly
reap great crops of Corn, of which they always have a twelve-months
Provision afore-hand, against an Invasion from their powerful Neighbours.
Their Government is under two Kings, one presiding in Arms, the other
in Hunting and Husbandry. They hold all things, except their Wives, in
common; and their custome in eating is, that every man in his turn feasts
all the rest; and he that makes the entertainment, is seated betwixt the
two Kings; where having highly commended his own chear, they carve and
distribute it amongst the guests.
At my arrival here, I met four stranger-Indians, whose Bodies were
painted in various colours with figures of Animals whose likeness I had
never seen: and by some discourse and signes which passed between us,
I gathered that they were the only survivours of fifty, who set out
together in company from some great Island, as I conjecture, to the
Northwest; for I understood that they crossed a great Water, in which
most of their party perished by tempest, the rest dying in the Marishes
and Mountains by famine and hard weather, after a two-months travel by
Land and Water in quest of this Island of _Akenatzy_.
The most reasonable conjecture that I can frame out of this Relation,
is, that these Indians might come from the Island of new _Albion_ or
_California_, from whence we may imagine some great arm of the Indian
Ocean or Bay stretches into the Continent towards the _Apalatæan_
Mountains in the nature of a mid-land Sea, in which many of these Indians
might have perished. To confirm my opinion in this point, I have heard
several Indians testifie, that the Nation of _Rickohockans_, who dwell
not far to the Westward of the _Apalatæan_ Mountains, are seated upon a
Land, as they term it, of great Waves; by which I suppose they mean the
Sea-shore.
The next day after my arrival at _Akenatzy_, a _Rickohockan_ Ambassadour,
attended by five Indians, whose faces were coloured with _Auripigmentum_
(in which Mineral these parts do much abound) was received, and that
night invited to a Ball of their fashion; but in the height of their
mirth and dancing, by a smoke contrived for that purpose, the Room was
suddenly darkned, and for what cause I know not, the _Rickohockan_
and his Retinue barbarously murthered. This struck me with such an
affrightment, that the very next day, without taking my leave of them,
I slunk away with my Indian Companion. Though the desire of informing
my self further concerning some Minerals, as _Auripigmentum, &c._ which
I there took special notice of, would have perswaded me to stay longer
amongst them, had not the bloody example of their treachery to the
_Rickohockans_ frighted me away.
The fourteenth of _June_, pursuing a South-southwest course, sometimes by
a beaten path, and sometimes over hills and rocks, I was forc’d to take
up my quarters in the Woods: for though the _Oenock_-Indians, whom I then
sought, were not in a direct line above thirty odde miles distant from
_Akenatzy_, yet the Ways were such, and obliged me to go so far about,
that I reached not _Oenock_ until the sixteenth. The Country here, by the
industry of these Indians, is very open, and clear of wood. Their Town
is built round a field, where in their Sports they exercise with so much
labour and violence, and in so great numbers, that I have seen the ground
wet with the sweat that dropped from their bodies: their chief Recreation
is Slinging of stones. They are of mean stature and courage, covetous
and thievish, industrious to earn a peny; and therefore hire themselves
out to their neighbours, who employ them as Carryers or Porters. They
plant abundance of Grain, reap three Crops in a Summer, and out of their
Granary supply all the adjacent parts. These and the Mountain-Indians
build not their houses of Bark, but of Watling and Plaister. In Summer,
the heat of the weather makes them chuse to lie abroad in the night under
thin arbours of wilde Palm. Some houses they have of Reed and Bark; they
build them generally round: to each house belongs a little hovel made
like an oven, where they lay up their Corn and Mast, and keep it dry.
They parch their Nuts and Acorns over the fire, to take away their rank
Oyliness; which afterwards pressed, yeeld a milky liquor, and the Acorns
an Amber-colour’d Oyl. In these, mingled together, they dip their Cakes
at great Entertainments, and so serve them up to their guests as an
extraordinary dainty. Their Government is Democratick; and the Sentences
of their old men are received as Laws, or rather Oracles, by them.
Fourteen miles West-Southwest of the _Oenocks_, dwell the
_Shackory_-Indians, upon a rich Soyl, and yet abounding in Antimony,
of which they shewed me considerable quantities. Finding them agree
with the _Oenocks_ in Customs and Manners, I made no stay here, but
passing thorow their Town, I travelled till the nineteenth of _June_;
and then after a two days troublesome Journey thorow Thickets and
Marish grounds, I arrived at _Watary_ above fourty miles distant, and
bearing West-Southwest to _Shakor_. This Nation differs in Government
from all the other Indians of these parts: for they are Slaves, rather
then Subjects to their King. Their present Monarch is a grave man, and
courteous to strangers: yet I could not without horrour behold his
barbarous Superstition, in hiring three youths, and sending them forth
to kill as many young women of their Enemies as they could light on, to
serve his son, then newly dead, in the other world, as he vainly fancyed.
These youths during my stay returned with skins torn off the heads and
faces of three young girls, which they presented to his Majestie, and
were by him gratefully received.
I departed from _Watary_ the one and twentieth of _June_, and keeping a
West-course for near thirty miles, I came to _Sara_: here I found the
ways more level and easie. _Sara_ is not far distant from the Mountains,
which here lose their height, and change their course and name: for they
run due West, and receive from the Spaniards the name of _Suala_. From
these Mountains or Hills the Indians draw great quantities of _Cinabar_,
with which beaten to powder they colour their faces: this Mineral is of
a deeper Purple then _Vermilion_, and is the same which is in so much
esteem amongst Physitians, being the first element of Quicksilver.
I did likewise, to my no small admiration, find hard cakes of white Salt
amongst them; but whether they were made of Sea-water, or taken out of
Salt-pits, I know not: but am apt to believe the later, because the Sea
is so remote from them. Many other rich Commodities and Minerals there
are undoubtedly in these parts, which if possessed by an ingenious and
industrious people, would be improved to vast advantages by Trade. But
having tied my self up to things onely that I have seen in my Travels, I
will deliver no Conjectures.
_Lingua sile non est ultra narrabile quidquam._
These Indians are so indiscreetly fond of their children, that they will
not chastise them for any mischief or insolence. A little Boy had shot
an Arrow thorow my body, had I not reconciled him to me with gifts: and
all this anger was, because I spurred my horse out of another Arrows way
which he directed at him. This caused fetch a mutiny amongst the Youth of
the Town, that the Seniors taking my horse and self into protection, had
much ado (and that by intreaties and prayers, not commands) to appease
them.
From _Sara_ I kept a South-Southwest course until the five and twentieth
of _June_, and then I reached _Wisacky_. This three-days march was more
troublesome to me then all my travels besides: for the direct way which I
took from _Sara_ to _Wisacky_ is over a continued Marish over-grown with
Reeds, from whose roots sprung knotty stumps as hard and sharp as Flint.
I was forc’d to lead my horse most part of the way, and wonder that he
was not either plunged in the Bogs, or lamed by those rugged knots.
This Nation is subject to a neighbour-King residing upon the bank of a
great Lake called _Ushery_, invironed of all sides with Mountains, and
_Wisacky_ Marish; and therefore I will detain the Reader no longer with
the discourse of them, because I comprehend them in that of _Ushery_.
The six and, twentieth of _June_, having crossed a fresh River which
runs into the Lake of _Ushery_, I came to the Town, which was more
populous then any I had seen before in my March. The King dwells some
three miles from it, and therefore I had no opportunity of seeing him
the two nights which I stayed there. This Prince, though his Dominions
are large and populous, is in continual fear of the _Oustack_-Indians
seated on the opposite side of the Lake; a people so addicted to Arms,
that even their women come into the field, and shoot Arrows over their
husbands shoulders, who shield them with Leathern Targets. The men it
seems should fight with Silver-Hatchets: for one of the _Usheryes_ told
me they were of the same metal with the Pomel of my Sword. They are a
cruel generation, and prey upon people, whom they either steal, or force
away from the _Usheryes_ in _Periago’s_, to sacrifice to their Idols.
The _Ushery_-women delight much in feather-ornaments, of which they have
great variety; but Peacocks in most esteem, because rare in those parts.
They are reasonably handsome, and have more of civility in their carriage
then I observed in the other Nations with whom I conversed; which is the
reason that the men are more effeminate and lazie.
These miserable wretches are strangely infatuated with illusions of the
devil: it caused no small horrour in me, to see one of them wrythe his
neck all on one side, foam at the mouth, stand bare-foot upon burning
coals for near an hour, and then recovering his senses, leap out of the
fire without hurt, or signe of any. This I was an eye-witness of.
The water of _Ushery_-lake seemed to my taste a little brackish; which
I rather impute to some Mineral-waters which flow into it, then to any
saltness it can take from the Sea, which we may reasonably suppose is a
great way from it. Many pleasant Rivulets fall into it, and it is stored
with great plenty of excellent fish. I judged it to be about ten leagues
broad: for were not the other shore very high, it could not be discerned
from _Ushery_. How far this Lake tends Westerly, or where it ends, I
could neither learn or guess.
Here I made a days stay, to inform my self further in these Countries;
and understood both from the _Usheries_, and some _Sara_-Indians that
came to trade with them, that two-days journey and a half from hence to
the Southwest, a powerful Nation of Bearded men were seated, which I
suppose to be the Spaniards, because the Indians never have any; it being
an universal custom amongst them, to prevent their growth, by plucking
the young hair out by the roots. Westward lies a Government inhospitable
to strangers; and to the North, over the _Suala_-mountains, lay the
_Rickohockans_. I thought it not safe to venture my self amongst the
Spaniards, lest taking me for a Spy, they would either make me away, or
condemn me to a perpetual Slavery in their Mines. Therefore not thinking
fit to proceed further, the eight and twentieth of _June_ I faced about,
and looked homewards.
To avoid _Wisacky_-Marish, I shaped my course Northeast; and after three
days travel over hilly ways, where I met with no path or road, I fell
into a barren Sandy desert, where I suffered miserably for want of water;
the heat of the Summer having drunk all the Springs dry, and left no
signe of any, but the Gravelly chanels in which they run: so that if now
and then I had not found a standing Pool, which provident Nature set
round with shady Oaks, to defend it from the ardour of the Sun, my Indian
companion, horse and self had certainly perished with thirst. In this
distress we travelled till the twelfth of _July_, and then found the head
of a River, which afterwards proved _Eruco_; in which we received not
onely the comfort of a necessary and seasonable refreshment, but likewise
the hopes of coming into a Country again where we might finde Game for
food at least, if not discover some new Nation or People. Nor did our
hopes fail us: for after we had crossed the River twice, we were led by
it upon the fourteenth of _July_ to the Town of _Katearas_, a place of
great Indian Trade and Commerce, and chief Seat of the haughty Emperour
of the _Toskiroro’s_, called _Kaskusara_, vulgarly _Kaskous_. His grim
Majestie, upon my first appearance, demanded my Gun and Shot; which I
willingly parted with, to ransom my self out of his clutches: for he was
the most proud imperious Barbarian that I met with in all my Marches.
The people here at this time seemed prepared for some extraordinary
Solemnity: for the men and the women of better sort had decked themselves
very fine with pieces of bright Copper in their hair and ears, and
about their arms and neck, which upon Festival occasions they use as
an extraordinary bravery: by which it should seem this Country is not
without rich Mines of Copper. But I durst not stay to inform my self
further in it, being jealous of some sudden mischief towards me from
_Kaskous_, his nature being bloudy, and provoked upon any slight occasion.
Therefore leaving _Katearas_, I travelled through the Woods until the
sixteenth, upon which I came to _Kawitziokan_, an Indian town upon a
branch of _Rorenoke_-river, which here I passed over, continuing my
journey to Menchœrinck; and on the seventeenth departing from thence,
I lay all night in the Woods, and the next morning betimes going by
_Natoway_, I reached that evening _Apamatuck_ in _Virginia_, where I was
not a little overjoyed to see Christian faces again.
The third and last EXPEDITION,
From the Falls of _Rappahanock_-River in _Virginia_, (due West) to the
top of the _Apalatæan_ Mountains.
On the twentieth of _August_ 1670, Col. _Catlet_ of _Virginia_ and my
self, with nine English Horse, and five Indians on foot, departed from
the house of one _Robert Talifer_, and that night reached the falls of
_Rappahanock_-river, in Indian _Mantepeuck_.
The next day we passed it over where it divides into two branches North
and South, keeping the main branch North of us.
The three and twentieth we found it so shallow, that it onely wet our
horses hoofs.
The four and twentieth we travelled thorow the _Savanæ_ amongst vast
herds of Red and Fallow Deer which stood gazing at us; and a little
after, we came to the Promontories or Spurs of the _Apalatæan_-mountains.
These _Savanæ_ are low grounds at the foot of the _Apalatæans_, which all
the Winter, Spring, and part of the Summer, lie under snow or water, when
the snow is dissolved, which falls down from the Mountains commonly about
the beginning of _June_; and then their verdure is wonderful pleasant to
the eye, especially of such as having travelled through the shade of the
vast Forest, come out of a melancholy darkness of a sudden, into a clear
and open skie. To heighten the beauty of these parts, the first Springs
of most of those great Rivers which run into the _Atlantick_ Ocean, or
_Cheseapeack_ Bay, do here break out, and in various branches interlace
the flowry Meads, whose luxurious herbage invites numerous herds of Red
Deer (for their unusual largeness improperly termed Elks by ignorant
people) to feed. The right Elk, though very common in _New Scotland_,
_Canada_, and those Northern parts, is never seen on this side of the
Continent: for that which the _Virginians_ call Elk’s, does not at all
differ from the Red Deer of _Europe_, but in his dimensions, which are
far greater: but yet the Elk in bigness does as far exceed them: their
heads, or horns, are not very different; but the neck of the Elk is so
short, that it hardly separates the head from the shoulders; which is the
reason that they cannot feed upon level ground but by falling on their
knees, though their heads be a yard-long: therefore they commonly either
brouse upon trees, or standing up to the belly in ponds or rivers feed
upon the banks: their Cingles or tails are hardly three inches long, I
have been told by a _New-England_-Gentleman, that the lips and nostrils
of this creature is the most delicious meat he ever tasted. As for the
Red Deer we here treat of, I cannot difference the taste of their flesh
from those in _Europe_.
The six and twentieth of _August_ we came to the Mountains, where
finding no horse-way up, we alighted, and left our horses with two or
three Indians below, whilst we went up afoot. The ascent was so steep,
the cold so intense, and we so tired, that having with much ado gained
the top of one of the highest, we drank the Kings Health in Brandy,
gave the Mountain His name, and agreed to return back again, having no
encouragement from that prospect to proceed to a further discovery; since
from hence we saw another Mountain, bearing North and by West to us, of a
prodigious height: for according to an observation of the distance taken
by Col. _Catlet_, it could not be less then fifty leagues from the place
we stood upon.
Here was I stung in my sleep by a Mountain-spider; and had not an Indian
suckt out the poyson, I had died: for receiving the hurt at the tip of
one of my fingers, the venome shot up immediately into my shoulder, and
so inflamed my side, that it is not possible to express my torment. The
means used by my Physician, was first a small dose of Snakeroot-powder,
which I took in a little water; and then making a kinde of Plaister of
the same, applied it neer to the part affected: when he had done so,
he swallowed some by way of Antidote himself, and suckt my fingers end
so violently, that I felt the venome retire back from my side into my
shoulder, and from thence down my arm: having thus sucked half a score
times, and spit as often, I was eased of all my pain, and perfectly
recovered. I thought I had been bit by a Rattle-snake, for I saw not what
hurt me: but the Indian found by the wound, and the effects of it, that
it was given by a Spider, one of which he shewed me the next day: it is
not unlike our great blue Spider, onely it is somewhat longer. I suppose
the nature of his poyson to be much like that of the _Tarantula_.
I being thus beyond my hopes and expectation restored to my self, we
unanimously agreed to return back, seeing no possibility of passing
through the Mountains: and finding our Indians with our horses in the
place where we left them, we rode homewards without making any further
Discovery.
CONJECTURES of the Land beyond the _Apalatæan_ Mountains.
They are certainly in a great errour, who imagine that the Continent
of North-_America_ is but eight or ten days journey over from
the _Atlantick_ to the _Indian_ Ocean: which all reasonable men
must acknowledge, if they consider that Sir _France Drake_ kept
a West-Northwest course from _Cape Mendocino_ to _California_.
Nevertheless, by what I gathered from the stranger Indians at _Akenatzy_
of their Voyage by Sea to the very Mountains from a far distant Northwest
Country, I am brought over to their opinion who think that the Indian
Ocean does stretch an Arm or Bay from _California_ into the Continent as
far as the _Apalatæan_ Mountains, answerable to the Gulfs of _Florida_
and _Mexico_ on this side. Yet I am far from believing with some, that
such great and Navigable Rivers are to be found on the other side the
_Apalatæans_ falling into the Indian Ocean, as those which run from
them to the Eastward. My first reason is derived from the knowledge and
experience we already have of South-_America_, whose _Andes_ send the
greatest Rivers in the world (as the _Amazones_ and _Rio de la Plata_
&c.) into the _Atlantick_, but none at all into the _Pacifique_ Sea.
Another Argument is, that all our Water-fowl which delight in Lakes and
Rivers, as Swans, Geese, Ducks, _&c._ come over the Mountains from the
Lake of _Canada_, when it is frozen over every Winter, to our fresh
Rivers; which they would never do, could they finde any on the other side
of the _Apalatæans_.
INSTRUCTIONS to such as shall march upon Discoveries into the
North-_American_ Continent.
Two breaches there are in the _Apalatæan_ Mountains, opening a passage
into the Western parts of the Continent. One, as I am informed by
Indians, at a place called _Zynodoa_, to the Norward; the other at
_Sara_, where I have been my self: but the way thither being thorow a
vast Forest, where you seldom fall into any Road or Path, you must shape
your course by a Compass; though some, for want of one, have taken their
direction from the North-side of the trees, which is distinguished from
the rest by quantities of thick Moss growing there. You will not meet
with many hinderances on horseback in your passage to the Mountains, but
where your course is interrupted by branches of the great Rivers, which
in many places are not Fordable; and therefore if you be unprovided of
means or strength to make a Bridge by felling trees across, you may be
forced to go a great way about: in this respect company is necessary, but
in others so inconvenient, that I would not advise above half a dozen,
or ten at the most, to travel together; and of these, the major part
Indians: for the Nations in your way are prone to jealousie and mischief
towards Christians in a considerable Body, and as courteous and hearty to
a few, from whom they apprehend no danger.
When you pass thorow an even level Country, where you can take no
particular remarks from hill or waters to guide your self by when you
come back, you must not forget to notch the trees as you go along with
your small Hatchet, that in your return you may know when you fall into
the same way which you went. By this means you will be certain of the
place you are in, and may govern your course homeward accordingly.
In stead of Bread, I used the meal of parched _Mayz_, i. e. Indian Wheat;
which when I eat, I seasoned with a little Salt. This is both more
portable and strengthning then Biscuit, and will suffer no mouldiness
by any weather. For other provisions, you may securely trust to your
Gun, the Woods being full of Fallow, and _Savanæ_ of Red-Deer, besides
great variety of excellent Fowl, as wilde Turkeys, Pigeons, Partridges,
Phesants, _&c._ But you must not forget to dry or barbecue some of these
before you come to the Mountains: for upon them you will meet with no
Game, except a few Bears.
Such as cannot lie on the ground, must be provided with light Hamacks,
which hung in the trees, are more cool and pleasant then any bed
whatsoever.
The Order and Discipline to be observed in this Expedition is, that
an Indian Scout or two march as far before the rest of the company as
they can in sight, both for the finding out provision, and discovery of
Ambushes, if any should be laid by Enemies. Let your other Indians keep
on the right and left hand, armed not onely with Guns, but Bills and
Hatchets, to build small Arbours or Cottages of boughs and bark of trees,
to shelter and defend you from the injuries of the weather. At nights it
is necessary to make great Fires round about the place where you take up
your lodging, as well to scare Wild-beasts away, as to purifie the air.
Neither must you fail to go the Round at the close of the evening: for
then, and betimes in the morning, the Indians put all their designes in
execution: in the night they never attempt any thing.
When in the remote parts you draw near to an Indian Town, you must
by your Scouts inform your self whether they hold any correspondence
with the _Sasquesahanaughs_; for to such you must give notice of your
approach by a Gun; which amongst other Indians is to be avoided, because
being ignorant of their use, it would affright and dispose them to some
treacherous practice against you.
Being arrived at a Town, enter no house until you are invited; and then
seem not afraid to be led in pinion’d like a prisoner: for that is a
Ceremony they use to friends and enemies without distinction.
You must accept of an invitation from the Seniors, before that of young
men; and refuse nothing that is offered or set afore you: for they
are very jealous, and sensible of the least slighting or neglect from
strangers, and mindful of Revenge.
Touching TRADE with Indians.
If you barely designe a Home-trade with neighbour-Indians, for skins of
Deer, Beaver, Otter, Wild-Cat, Fox, Racoon, &c. your best Truck is a sort
of course Trading Cloth, of which a yard and a half makes a Matchcoat
or Mantle fit for their wear; as also Axes, Hoes, Knives, Sizars, and
all sorts of edg’d tools. Guns, Powder and Shot, _&c._ are Commodities
they will greedily barter for: but to supply the Indians with Arms and
Ammunition, is prohibited in all English Governments.
In dealing with the Indians, you must be positive and at a word: for if
they perswade you to fall any thing in your price, they will spend time
in higgling for further abatements, and seldom conclude any Bargain.
Sometimes you may with Brandy or Strong liquor dispose them to an humour
of giving you ten times the value of your commodity; and at other times
they are so hide-bound, that they will not offer half the Market-price,
especially if they be aware that you have a designe to circumvent them
with drink, or that they think you have a desire to their goods; which
you must seem to slight and disparage.
To the remoter Indians you must carry other kinde of Truck, as small
Looking-glasses, Pictures, Beads and Bracelets of glass, Knives, Sizars,
and all manner of gaudy toys and knacks for children, which are light and
portable. For they are apt to admire such trinkets, and will purchase
them at any rate, either with their currant Coyn of small shells, which
they call _Roanoack_ or _Peack_, or perhaps with Pearl, Vermilion, pieces
of Christal; and towards _Ushery_, with some odde pieces of Plate or
Buillon, which they sometimes receive in Truck from the _Oestacks_.
Could I have foreseen when I set out, the advantages to be made by a
Trade with those remote Indians, I had gone better provided; though
perhaps I might have run a great hazard of my life, had I purchased
considerably amongst them, by carrying wealth unguarded through so many
different Nations of barbarous people: therefore it is vain for any man
to propose to himself, or undertake a Trade at that distance, unless he
goes with strength to defend, as well as an Adventure to purchase such
Commodities: for in such a designe many ought to joyn and go in company.
Some pieces of Silver unwrought I purchased my self of the _Usheries_,
for no other end then to justifie this account I give of my Second
Expedition, which had not determined at _Ushery_, were I accompanied with
half a score resolute youths that would have stuck to me in a further
discovery towards the Spanish Mines.