The guard, some thirty foot soldiers, came swiftly out of the court of

the hotel, and drew up in a line before its gate. This happened as I

reached their own side of the square, which I had just crossed.

Presently, a party of fifteen or twenty _gens-d’armes à cheval_, came

up, and wheeled into line. The students raised another shout, as it

might be, in defiance. The infantry shouldered arms, and filing off

singly, headed by an officer, they marched, in what we call Indian file,

towards the crowd. All this was done in the most quiet manner possible,

but promptly, and with an air of great decision and determination. On

reaching the crowd, they penetrated it, in the same order, quite up to

the railing. Nothing was said, nor was any thing done, for it would have

been going farther than the students were prepared to proceed, had they

attempted to seize and disarm the soldiers. This appeared to be

understood, and instead of wasting the moments, and exasperating his

enemies by a parley, the officer, as has just been said, went directly

through them, until he reached the railing. Once there, he began to

encircle it, followed in the same order by his men. The first turn

loosened the crowd, necessarily, and then I observed that the muskets,

which hitherto had been kept at a “carry,” were inclined a little

outwards. Two turns, enabled the men to throw their pieces to a charge,

and, by this time, they had opened their order so far, as to occupy the

four sides of the area. Facing outwards, they advanced very slowly, but

giving time for the crowd to recede. This manœuvre rendered the throng

less and less dense, when, watching their time, the mounted

_gens-d’armes_ rode into it, in a body, and, making a circuit, on a

trot, without the line of infantry, they got the mass so loosened and

scattered, that, unarmed as the students were, had they been disposed to

resist, they would now have been completely at the mercy of the troops.

Every step that was gained, of course, weakened the crowd, and, in ten

minutes, the square was empty; some being driven out of it in one

direction, and some in another, without a blow being struck, or, even an

angry word used. The force of the old saying, “that the king’s name is a

tower of strength,” or, the law being on the side of the troops,

probably was of some avail; but a mob of fiery young Frenchmen is not

too apt to look at the law, with reverence.

I stood near the hotels, but still in the square, when a _gens-d’arme_,

sweeping his sabre as one would use a stick in driving sheep, came near

me. He told me to go away. I smiled, and said I was a stranger, who was

looking at the scene purely from curiosity. “I see you are, sir,” he

answered, “but you had better fall back into the _Rue de la Paix_.” We

exchanged friendly nods, and I did as he told me, without further

hesitation. In truth, there remained no more to be seen.

Certainly, nothing could have been done in better temper, more

effectually, nor more steadily than this dispersion of the students.

There is no want of spirit in these young men, you must know, but the

reverse is rather the case. The troops were under fifty in number, and

the mob was between six hundred and a thousand; resolute, active, sturdy

young fellows, who had plenty of fight in them, but who wanted the unity

of purpose that a single leader can give to soldiers. I thought this

little campaign of the column of the Place Vendôme, quite as good in its

way, as the _petite guerre_ of the plains of Issy.

I do not know whether you have fallen into the same error as myself, in

relation to the comparative merits of the cavalry of this part of the

world, though I think it is one common to most Americans. From the

excellence of their horses, as well as from that general deference for

the character and prowess of the nation, which exists at home, I had

been led to believe that the superior qualities of the British cavalry

were admitted in Europe. This is any thing but true; military men, so

far as I can learn, giving the palm to the Austrian artillery, the

British infantry, and the French cavalry. The Russians are said to be

generally good for the purposes of defence, and in the same degree

deficient for those of attack. Some shrewd observers, however, think the

Prussian army, once more, the best in Europe.

The French cavalry is usually mounted on small, clumsy, but sturdy

beasts, that do not show a particle of blood. Their movement is awkward,

and their powers, for a short effort, certainly are very much inferior

to those of either England or America. Their superiority must consist in

their powers of endurance, for the blooded animal soon falls off, on

scanty fare and bad grooming. I have heard the moral qualities of the

men, given as a reason why the French cavalry should be superior to that

of England. The system of conscription secures to an army the best

materials, while that of enlistment necessarily includes the worst. In

this fact is to be found the real moral superiority of the French and

Prussian armies. Here, service, even in the ranks, is deemed honorable;

whereas with us, or in England, it would be certain degradation to a man

of the smallest pretension to enlist as a soldier, except in moments

that made stronger appeals than usual to patriotism. In short, it is

_primâ facie_ evidence of a degraded condition, for a man to carry a

musket in a regular battalion. Not so here. I have frequently seen

common soldiers copying in the gallery of the Louvre, or otherwise

engaged in examining works of science, or of taste; not ignorantly and

with vulgar wonder, but like men who had been regularly instructed. I

have been told that a work on artillery practice lately appeared in

France which excited so much surprise by its cleverness, that an inquiry

was set on foot for its author. He was found seated in a _cabriolet_, in

the streets; his vocation being that of a driver. What renders his

knowledge more surprising, is the fact, that the man was never a soldier

at all, but, having a great deal of leisure, while waiting for his

fares, he had turned his attention to this subject, and had obtained all

he knew by means of books. Nothing is more common than to see the

drivers of _cabriolets_ and _fiacres_ reading in their seats, and I have

even seen market women, under their umbrellas, _à la Robinson_, with

books in their hands. You are not, however, to be misled by these facts,

which merely show the influence of the peculiar literature of the

country, so attractive and amusing, for a very great majority of the

French can neither read nor write. It is only in the north that such

things are seen at all, except among the soldiers, and a large

proportion of even the French army are entirely without schooling.

To return to the cavalry, I have heard the superiority of the French

ascribed also to their dexterity in the use of the sabre, or, as it is

termed here, _l’arme blanche_. After all, this is rather a poetical

conclusion; for charges of cavalry rarely result in regular, hand to

hand, conflicts. Like the bayonet, the sabre is seldom used, except on

an unresisting enemy. Still the consciousness of such a manual

superiority might induce a squadron, less expert, to wheel away, or to

break, without waiting for orders.

I have made the acquaintance, here, of an old, English General, who has

passed all his life in the dragoons, and who commanded brigades of

cavalry in Spain and at Waterloo. As he is a sensible old man, of great

frankness and simplicity of character, perfect good-breeding and good

nature, and, moreover, so far as I can discover, absolutely without

prejudice against America, he has quite won my heart, and I have availed

myself of his kindness to see a good deal of him. We walk together,

frequently, and chat of all things in heaven and earth, just as they

come uppermost. The other day I asked him to explain the details of a

charge of his own particular arm to me, of which I confessed a proper

ignorance. “This is soon done,” said the old gentleman, taking my arm

with a sort of sly humour, as if he were about to relate something

facetious—“against foot, a charge is a menace; if they break, we profit

by it; if they stand, we get out of the scrape as well as we can. When

foot are in disorder, cavalry does the most, and it is always active in

securing a victory, usually taking most of the prisoners. But as against

cavalry, there is much misconception. When two regiments assault each

other, it is in compact line—.” “How,” I interrupted him, “do not you

open, so as to leave room to swing a sabre?” “Not at all. The theory is

knee to knee; but this is easier said than done, in actual service. I

will suppose an unsuccessful charge. We start, knee to knee, on a trot.

This loosens the ranks, and, as we increase the speed, they become still

looser. We are under the fire of artillery, or, perhaps, of infantry,

all the time, and the enemy won’t run. At this moment, a clever officer

will command a retreat to be sounded. If he should not, some officer is

opportunely killed, or some leading man loses command of his horse,

which is wounded and wheels, the squadron follows, and we get away as

well as we can. The enemy follows, and if he catches us, we are cut up.

Other charges do occur, but this is the common history of cavalry

against cavalry, and, in unsuccessful attacks of cavalry, against

infantry, too. A knowledge of the use of the sword is necessary, for did

your enemy believe you ignorant of it, he would not fly; but the weapon

itself is rarely used on such occasions. Very few men are slain, in

their ranks, by the bayonet, or the sabre.”

I was once told, though not directly by an officer, that the English

dragoon neglected his horse in the field, selling the provender for

liquor, and that, as a consequence, the corps became inefficient;

whereas the French dragoon, being usually a sober man, was less exposed

to this temptation. This may, or may not, be true; but drunkenness is

now quite common in the French army, though I think much less so in the

cavalry, than in the foot. The former are generally selected with some

care, and the common regiments of the line, as a matter of course,

receive the refuse of the conscription.

This conscription is, after all, extremely oppressive and unjust, though

it has the appearance of an equal tax. Napoleon had made it so

unpopular, by the inordinate nature of his demands for men, that Louis

XVIIIth caused an article to be inserted in the charter, by which it was

to be altogether abolished. But a _law_ being necessary to carry out

this constitutional provision, the clause remains a perfect dead letter,

it being no uncommon thing for the law to be stronger than the

constitution, even in America, and quite a common thing here. I will

give you an instance of the injustice of the system. An old servant of

mine has been drafted for the cavalry. I paid this man seven hundred

francs a year, gave him coffee, butter, and wine, with his food, and he

fell heir to a good portion of my old clothes. The other day he came to

see me, and I inquired into his present situation. His arms and clothes

were found him. He got neither coffee, wine, nor butter, and his other

food, as a matter of course, was much inferior to that he had been

accustomed to receive with me. His pay, after deducting the necessary

demands on it, in the shape of regular contributions, amounts to about

two sous a day, instead of the two francs he got in my service.

Now, necessity, in such matters, is clearly the primary law. If a

country cannot exist without a large standing army, and the men are not

to be had by voluntary enlistments, a draft is probably the wisest and

best regulation for its security. But, taking this principle as the

basis of the national defence, a just and a paternal government would

occupy itself in equalizing the effects of the burden, as far as

circumstances would in any manner admit. The most obvious and efficient

means would be by raising the rate of pay to the level, at least, of a

scale that should admit of substitutes being obtained at reasonable

rates. This is done with us, where a soldier receives a full ration, all

his clothes, and sixty dollars a year.[9] It is true, that this would

make an army very costly, and, to bear the charge, it might be necessary

to curtail some of the useless magnificence and prodigality of the other

branches of the government, and herein is just the point of difference

between the expenditures of America and those of France. It must be

remembered, too, that a really free government, by enlisting the popular

feeling in its behalf through its justice, escapes all the charges that

are incident to the necessity of maintaining power by force, wanting

soldiers for its enemies without, and not for its enemies within. We

have no need of a large standing army on account of our geographical

position, it is true, but had we the government of France, we should not

find that our geographical position exempted us from the charge.

Footnote 9:

He now receives seventy-two.

You have heard a great deal of the celebrated soldiers who surrounded

Napoleon, and whose names have become almost as familiar to us as his

own. I do not find that the French consider the marshals men of singular

talents. Most of them reached their high stations, on account of their

cleverness in some particular branch of their duties, and by their

strong devotion, in the earlier parts of their career, to their master.

_Maréchal Soult_ has a reputation for skill in managing the civil

details of service. As a soldier, he is also distinguished for

manœuvring in the face of his enemy, and under fire. Some such

excitement appears necessary to arouse his dormant talents. _Suchet_ is

said to have had capacity, but, I think, to _Massena_, and to the

present king of Sweden, the French usually yield the palm, in this

respect. _Davoust_ was a man of terrible military energy, and suited to

certain circumstances, but scarcely a man of talents. It was to him

Napoleon said, “Remember, you have but a single friend in France—myself;

take care you do not lose him.” _Lannes_ seems to have stood better than

most of them as a soldier, and _Macdonald_ as a man. But, on the whole,

I think it quite apparent there was scarcely one among them all,

calculated to have carried out a very high fortune for himself, without

the aid of the directing genius of his master. Many of them had ambition

enough for any thing, but it was an ambition stimulated by example,

rather than by a consciousness of superiority.

In nothing have I been more disappointed than in the appearance of these

men. There is more or less of character about the exterior and

physiognomy of them all, it is true, but scarcely one has what we are

accustomed to think the carriage of a soldier. It may be known to you

that _Moreau_ had very little of this, and really one is apt to fancy he

can see the civic origin in nearly all of them. While the common French

soldiers have a good deal of military coquetry, the higher officers

appear to be nearly destitute of it. _Maréchal Molitor_ is a fine man;

_Maréchal Marmont_ neat, compact, and soldierly looking; _Maréchal

Mortier_ a grenadier, without grace; _Maréchal Oudinot_ much the same,

and so on, to the end of the chapter. _Lamarque_ is a little swarthy

man, with good features and a keen eye, but he is military in neither

carriage nor mien.

Crossing the Pont Royal, shortly after my arrival, in company with a

friend, the latter pointed out to me a stranger, on the opposite

side-walk, and desired me to guess who and what he might be. The subject

of my examination was a compact solidly built man, with a plodding

rustic air, and who walked a little lame. After looking at him a minute,

I guessed he was some substantial grazier, who had come to Paris on

business connected with the supplies of the town. My friend laughed, and

told me it was Marshal Soult. To my inexperienced eye, he had not a bit

of the exterior of a soldier, and was as unlike the engravings we see of

the French heroes as possible. But here, art is art, and, like the man

who was accused of betraying another into a profitless speculation by

drawing streams on his map, when the land was without any, and who

defended himself by declaring no one ever saw a _map_ without streams,

the French artists appear to think every one should be represented in

his ideal character, let him be as _bourgeois_ as he may, in truth. I

have seen Marshal Soult in company, and his face has much character. The

head is good, and the eye searching, the whole physiognomy possessing

those latent fires that one would be apt to think would require the

noise and excitement of a battle to awaken. La Fayette looks more like

an old soldier than any of them. Gérard, however, is both a handsome

man, and of a military mien.

Now and then we see a _vieux moustache_ in the guards, but, on the

whole, I have been much surprised at finding how completely the army of

this country is composed of young soldiers. The campaigns of Russia, of

1813, 1814, and of 1815, left few besides conscripts beneath the eagles

of Napoleon. My old servant _Charles_ tells me that the guard-house is

obliged to listen to tales of the campaign of Spain, and of the glories

of the Trocadero!

The army of France is understood to be very generally disaffected. The

restoration has introduced into it, in the capacity of general officers,

many who followed the fortunes of the Bourbons into exile, and some, I

believe, who actually fought against this country, in the ranks of her

enemies. This may be, in some measure, necessary, but it is singularly

unfortunate.

I have been told, on good authority, that, since the restoration of

1815, several occasions have occurred, when the court thought itself

menaced with a revolution. On all these occasions, the army, as a matter

of course, has been looked to, with hope, or with distrust.

Investigation is said to have always discovered so bad a spirit, that

little reliance is placed on its support.

The traditions of the service are all against the Bourbons. It is true,

that very few of the men who fought at Marengo and Austerlitz still

remain, but then the recollection of their deeds forms the great delight

of most Frenchmen. There is but one power that can counteract this

feeling, and it is the power of money. By throwing itself into the arms

of the industrious classes, the court might possibly obtain an ally,

sufficiently strong to quell the martial spirit of the nation; but, so

far from pursuing such a policy, it has all the commercial and

manufacturing interests marshalled against it, because it wishes to

return to the _bon vieux temps_ of the old system.

After all, I much question if any government in France, will have the

army cordially with it, that does not find it better employment than

mock-fights on the plain of Issy, and night attacks on the mimic

Trocadero.

LETTER IX.

TO MRS. SINGLETON W. BEALL, GREEN BAY.

We have lately witnessed a ceremony that may have some interest for one

who, like yourself, dwells in the retirement of a remote frontier post.

It is etiquette for the Kings of France to dine in public twice in the

year, viz: the first of January, and the day that is set apart for the

_fête_ of the king. Having some idle curiosity to be present on one of

these occasions, I wrote the usual note to the lord in waiting, or, as

he is called here, “_le premier gentil’homme de la chambre du roi, de

service_,” and we got the customary answer, enclosing us tickets of

admission. There are two sorts of permissions granted on these

occasions; by one you are allowed to remain in the room during the

dinner, and by the other you are obliged to walk slowly through the

_salle_, in at one side, and out at the other, without, however, being

suffered to pause even for a moment. Ours were of the former

description.

The King of France having the laudable custom of being punctual, and as

every one dines in Paris at six, that best of all hours for a town life,

we were obliged to order our own dinner an hour earlier than common, for

looking at others eating on an empty stomach, is, of all amusements, the

least satisfactory. Having taken this wise precaution, we drove to the

_château_, at half after five, it not being seemly to enter the room

after the king, and, as we discovered, for females impossible.

Magnificence and comfort seldom have much in common. We were struck with

this truth on entering the palace of the King of France. The room into

which we were first admitted, was filled with tall lounging foot

soldiers, richly attired, but who lolled about the place, with their

caps on, and with a barrack-like air, that seemed to us singularly in

contrast with the prompt and respectful civility with which one is

received in the ante-chamber of a private hotel. It is true that we had

nothing to do with the soldiers and lackies who thronged the place; but

if their presence was intended to impress visiters with the importance

of their master, I think a more private entrance would have been most

likely to produce that effect, for I confess, that it appeared to me as

a mark of poverty, that, troops being necessary to the state and

security of the monarch, he was obliged to keep them in the vestibule,

by which his guests entered. But this is royal state. Formerly, the

executioner was present, and in the semi-barbarous courts of the east,

such is the fact even now. The soldiers were a party of the hundred

Swiss, men chosen for their great stature, and remarkable for the

perfection of their musket. Two of them were posted as sentinels at the

foot of the great stair-case, by which we ascended, and we passed

several more on the landings.

We were soon in the _salle des gardes_, or the room which the _gardes du

corps_, on service, occupied. Two of these quasi soldiers, were also

acting as sentinels here, while others lounged about the room. Their

apartment communicated with the _salle de Diane_, the hall or gallery

prepared for the entertainment. I had no other means but the eye, of

judging of the dimensions of this room, but its length considerably

exceeds a hundred feet and its breadth is probably forty, or more. It is

of the proper height, and the ceiling is painted in imitation of those

of the celebrated Farnese palace at Rome.

We found this noble room divided, by a low railing, into three

compartments. The centre, an area of some thirty feet by forty,

contained the table, and was otherwise prepared for the reception of the

court. On one side of it, were raised benches for the ladies, who were

allowed to be seated; and, on the other, a vacant space for the

gentlemen, who stood. All these, you will understand, were considered

merely as spectators, not being supposed to be in the presence of the

king. The mere spectators were dressed as usual, or in common evening

dress, and not all the women even in that; while those within the

railings, being deemed to be in the royal presence, were in high court

dresses. Thus, I stood for an hour, within five-and-twenty feet of the

king, and part of the time much nearer, while, by a fiction of

etiquette, I was not understood to be there at all. I was a good while

within ten feet of the _Duchesse de Berri_, while, by convention, I was

no where. There was abundance of room in our area, and every facility of

moving about, many coming and going, as they saw fit. Behind us, but at

a little distance, were other rows of raised seats, filled with the best

instrumental musicians of Paris. Along the wall, facing the table, was a

narrow, raised platform, wide enough to allow of two or three to walk

abreast, separated from the rest of the room by a railing, and extending

from a door at one end of the gallery, to a door at the other. This was

the place designed for the passage of the public during the dinner, no

one, however, being admitted, even here, without a ticket.

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