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THE
DISMAL SWAMP
AND
LAKE DRUMMOND.
EARLY RECOLLECTIONS.
VIVID PORTRAYAL OF AMUSING SCENES.
BY
ROBT. ARNOLD.
SUFFOLK, VA.
NORFOLK, VA.
GREEN, BURKE & GREGORY, PRINTERS.
1888.
Entered according to act of Congress in the year 1888, by R. Arnold,
in the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.
INTRODUCTION
This little volume is launched upon the sea of public favor. If it
should stem the tide of criticism and reach a haven, my object in the
writing of it will be accomplished. Being partially blind and
physically unable to labor, I have adopted this as a means by which I
might gain an honest assistance, a double object presented itself:
1st. That I might give to its readers some idea of the Dismal Swamp
and Lake Drummond as they were and as they now are.
2d. That I may from the sale of my book receive an amount that will
place me beyond penury. The work will contain some interesting
incidents, and in many instances will give the real names of persons
now living who will be acquainted with the subject of which I write.
Having said this much introductory of my book, I will now proceed with
my task.
When I determined to indite the lines which compose this volume, I
had, as has been stated, a double purpose in view. I thought I could
not employ a portion of my leisure hours more profitably, certainly
not more pleasantly, than by recounting some of the scenes, incidents
and associations which carries my mind back to the days of "Auld Lang
Syne." What more natural, then, than that my thoughts should revert to
the friend of my early manhood--one who, by the uprightness of his
character, geniality of his disposition, the chivalric impulses of his
nature, deserves, as it is my greatest pleasure to accord, the
dedication of this little volume; and I have said all when I mention
the name of my esteemed friend Robert Riddick, Esq., of Suffolk, Va.
Suffolk, Va., January 1, 1888. THE AUTHOR.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
I. DESCRIPTION AND SITUATION OF THE SWAMP--WASHINGTON
THE OWNER. 5
II. TO GROW UP AGAIN IN A JUNGLE. 8
III. HEALTHFULNESS AT THE SWAMP. 10
IV. ORIGIN OF THE LAKE DISCUSSED. 16
V. THE VISIT OF TOM. MOORE, AS RELATED BY TONY. 20
VI. PORTE CRAYON'S VISIT, INCIDENTS, ETC. 22
VII. MANY CHANGES HAVE TAKEN PLACE. 30
VIII. THE FUTURE FOR THE DISMAL SWAMP. 35
IX. SUFFOLK AND EARLY DAYS. 45
X. ENTERPRISE AND PROSPERITY. 50
XI. THE OLD BRICK CHURCH AT BENN'S--SUFFOLK'S FIRST
RAILROAD, ETC. 52
XII. BEAR HUNTING IN THE DISMAL SWAMP--COLONEL GODFREY'S
VISIT TO SOUTHAMPTON. 56
XIII. THE ADVENTURES OF SMITH, JONES AND BROWN--JONES, HEARING
THAT A SNAKE IS IN THE BOAT, JUMPS INTO THE CANAL. 76
CHAPTER I.
DESCRIPTION AND SITUATION OF THE SWAMP--WASHINGTON THE OWNER.
The Dismal Swamp, of which but little is known, is a large body of
dense woods, being situated and laying in Nansemond county, Virginia,
and the county of Gates, in North Carolina. It contains, by survey,
about 100,000 acres. I have been told by H. E. Smith, Esq., our county
treasurer, that 45,000 acres were listed in the county of Nansemond.
It is thickly set with juniper, cypress and other timber, which makes
it very valuable. It came into the possession of General George
Washington, and after the Revolutionary War a company known as the
Dismal Swamp Land Company was formed, and arrangements made to
manufacture the timber; hands were put in the Swamp and it was
regularly opened. A large quantity of timber was manufactured, and
Washington found it necessary to find some outlet for it, which could
only be done by a canal or ditch. A suitable place was soon found, and
Washington commenced in person to survey the route known as the
Washington Ditch. He commenced at the northwest of the Lake, on lands
known as "Soldiers' Hope," belonging to the estate of Col. Josiah
Riddick, deceased, and running west to what is called the "Reese
Farm," on the Edenton road, about seven miles from Suffolk. A large
quantity of juniper timber was brought through this ditch, which was
hauled to the Nansemond river for shipment. We were told by one of the
agents of the company, W. S. Riddick, Esq., that at one time all the
business of the company was transacted at the "Reese Farm," that being
the point at which the Ditch ended. This mode of getting the lumber to
market was found too slow and tedious, and a more direct way sought.
How long the Washington Ditch was used for bringing out the timber, we
have never heard. That will make no difference, for after the Jericho
Canal was cut the Ditch was abandoned, and a direct communication
opened to Nansemond river by the way of Shingle creek. Millions of
feet of timber was shipped annually. The shareholders at that time
were few in number, and their profits were very large. The company
consisted of a president, agent and inspector, he living at or near
Suffolk, and had charge of the work in the Swamp. He employed the
hands, furnished all the supplies, sold the lumber, received all
monies, and paid all bills. He was, in fact, the principal officer of
the company. At a stated period, annually, a meeting would be held for
a general settlement of the year's accounts. The president would
preside, and as there were no banks at that time in which to deposit
money, the agent would have a very large amount to turn over to the
stockholders. That place is no longer of much value to its owners, as
it is a source of but little revenue. The shares have been divided
and sub-divided, until some of its holders get barely enough to pay
the postage on a letter. Ex-Senator Wm. Mahone is probably the largest
shareholder. The Swamp has been leased to Jno. L. Roper, Esq., of
Norfolk, for several years, during which he has had employed a large
number of hands, consequently most of the valuable timber has been cut
off. When this Swamp was first opened, it became a harbor and safe
refuge for runaway slaves, and when one reached that dense place,
unless he was betrayed, it would be a matter of impossibility to catch
him. Long before the war you could not take up a newspaper published
in this part of the State but what you would see several cuts of a
negro absconding with a stick on his shoulder and a pack on one end of
it, with the following advertisement:
"Notice! $500 Reward! Ran away from the subscriber, on the
night of June 18th, my negro man, Simon. He had on, when
last seen, a pair of light pants, with a black patch on the
seat of the same. He is slue-footed, knock-kneed, and bends
over a little when walking. He may be making his way to the
Dismal Swamp. I will pay the above reward for his
apprehension, or his lodgment in some jail, so that I can
get him again.
"JOE JONES."
I knew of an instance just before the late war where a gentleman by
the name of Augustus Holly, Bertie county, N. C., had a slave to run
away, who was known to be a desperate character. He knew that he had
gone to the Dismal Swamp, and to get him, his master offered a reward
of $1,000 for his apprehension, dead or alive. The person who caught
him is still living. I saw the negro when he was brought to Suffolk
and lodged in jail. He had been shot at several times, but was little
hurt. He had on a coat that was impervious to shot, it being thickly
wadded with turkey feathers. Small shot were the only kind used to
shoot runaway slaves, and it was very seldom the case that any ever
penetrated far enough to injure. I know three persons now living who
were runaway slave catchers, but the late war stripped them of their
occupation. They were courageous and men of nerve.