AMONG THE HILLS.
As the little party went on board the Saguenay boat next morning, a
surprise was in store for them, for who should come to meet them, with
the most smiling air, but Mr. Winthrop himself, looking very bright,
and meeting them all as if it had been the most matter-of-course thing
in the world! Kate met him with the same cordial, matter-of-course
air, but May observed that they exchanged a few words in a low tone,
which seemed to set them on their old footing at once.
"Do you know," said Flora, to her, as they stood apart in the stern,
taking a last look at the great frowning rock and the tall, dark
houses looming above them,--"I believe some one wrote to him and
explained Kate's misconception, and I have my suspicions as to who it
was. I saw Hugh scribbling off a few lines in a great hurry, that
evening on the boat, and I shouldn't wonder in the least if it was to
Mr. Winthrop! But I'm glad it's all right, for I think he is a very
nice fellow, and Kate and he would suit each other very well."
May was completely taken back. Had Flora no thought of Hugh, then? Or
did it not occur to her that _his_ happiness might be in some degree
involved in this matter? But if Hugh really did what she supposed, how
very noble it was of him! He was a real hero, a chivalrous knight!
However, she could not, of course, say anything of this to Flora, so
she silently determined to put Hugh and his fortunes quite out of her
thoughts for the present, as too perplexing a problem, and give
herself up entirely to the influence of the glorious scenery and the
lovely morning.
They were, by this time, fast losing sight of the grey old fortress
about which had raged so many fierce conflicts in the days of old. The
Isle of Orleans, along whose southern shore the steamer took her
course, quickly hid from them the picturesque old town and its
beautiful setting, and even the rocky cleft in which Montmorency was
ceaselessly pouring down its masses of snowy foam, and raising its
great mist-cloud to the sky. As the Isle of Orleans was itself left
behind, the glorious river grew wider and grander, as point after
point opened before them in ever-receding vista. The blue, cloud-like
masses of Cap Tourmente and Ste. Anne gradually became great dark
hills, covered from head to foot with a dense growth of foliage,
chiefly birch and fir. One after another of this magnificent range of
superb hills rose on their left, wooded from base to summit, and
looking almost as lonely and untouched by civilization as when
Cartier's "white-winged canoes" first ascended the "great river of
Hochelaga." Here and there a white village or two gleamed out from the
encompassing verdure, or stood perched on a hill-top beside its
protecting church. To May, who had so often dreamed over the voyages
of these early explorers, it seemed like an enchanted land. The Isle
of Orleans was to her the old "_Ile de Bacchus_," purple with the
festoons of wild vines that offered their clusters of grapes to the
French adventurers, and the beautiful Ile aux Coudres, which the
Captain pointed out, she recalled as in like manner an old
acquaintance, surveying it with much interest, as she pictured to
herself the hardy explorers regaling themselves on its native
filberts.
Then the noble bay of St. Paul's opened out its grand spreading curve,
with the pretty village of Les Eboulements nestling in its breast; and
by and by they had stopped at the massive light-house with its high
pier, intended to suit the variations of the tide.
"What a lonely life it must be in these solitudes!" observed Mr.
Winthrop, as they watched the great lumbering ferry-boat carrying off
the passengers whose homes lay among these hills;--"just think of the
contrast between life here and life in the crowded bustle of New
York."
"And yet," said Hugh, "I fancy life is, in the main, not so very
different here, if we could only see below the surface. I suppose the
main outlines of life are pretty much the same everywhere, after all!"
May had been inwardly following out the same thought, and trying to
imagine the sort of life and surroundings to which the pale girl in
gray, who had specially excited her interest as a supposed bride, was
going in her future home. Then the voyagers dreamily watched for some
time in silence the long silent procession of wooded hills, dappled by
the shadow of the great fleecy white clouds that swept up across the
blue sky, while, ever and anon, snowy sea-gulls darted down to catch
from the tossing crests of the sparkling waves, the fragments of food
thrown to them by passengers, seeming to spy it unerringly from afar,
and now and then white whales or porpoises would toss up a miniature
geyser, as they disported themselves in the azure tide.
At length they came in sight of the headland forming the upper end of
picturesque Murray Bay, where they were to spend some time on their
return from the Saguenay. They all admired the lovely vista opened up
by this long and narrow bay with its white church, marking the village
from afar, with its grand promontory of Cap a l'Aigle at its lower
extremity, and its green valley, hemmed in by rank after rank of
billowy blue hills. But they could not see much of the long straggling
village of Pointe-au-Pic, or the quaint foreign-looking French hamlet
in the centre of the curve of the bay. Indeed, their attention was
quickly diverted from examining its details, for, among the people who
stood on the high pier awaiting the steamboat, they speedily
recognized Jack and Nellie Armstrong, who greeted them with much
delight, and were soon beside them on the steamer's deck.
"You see we got here in advance of you," said Jack Armstrong, and
Nellie exclaimed: "We've been wondering what could possibly have
become of you. We have been watching the last two boats, prepared to
join you if you were there, and were beginning to despair of you
altogether. You must have been bewitched, either by Quebec or the
Thousand Islands, to have been so long on the way."
"And you have very nearly missed the moon," added Jack. "We've been
watching it for the last two or three evenings in fear and trembling
lest Miss Macnab and Miss Thorburn should miss their cherished desire
of seeing Cape Eternity by moonlight."
"Oh, I think there is enough of it left yet," said Kate, while Mrs.
Sandford remarked that she thought she never should have been able to
tear those people away from the delights of the Thousand Islands.
"Or from Quebec," said Flora and May together. "_That_ was almost the
loveliest of all."
"Ah, I told you you would enjoy Quebec, Miss Macnab!" said Jack
Armstrong. And presently May observed that he had drawn Flora a little
aside, and engaged her in an animated description of what she had most
enjoyed since they had left Port Hope. And, indeed, she was looking
charming enough, in her Inverness cape and deerstalker cap, to draw
forth a good deal of admiration, May thought. As for Kate, in her
rough ulster and cap to match, with her color heightened by the sharp
sea breeze, she was looking brilliantly handsome, so evidently thought
Mr. Winthrop, who kept near her, displacing Hugh altogether, as May at
last believed. But now they were nearly opposite Les Pelerins, the
strange parallel rocks that stand, silent, stately warders beside the
great river, widening into a broad sea-like expanse, with a line of
distant hills faintly breaking the horizon to the right, while on the
left, the great hills which had been accompanying them all day now
receded somewhat into the distance. Then the little red brick town of
Riviere-du-Loup gleamed out ruddy on its sloping hill, growing more
and more distinct until the steamer had drawn up beside the high pier,
on which were a number of summer tourists eager to see who were on the
boat, or to get a little fresh news from the outside world. Bidding
these farewell, they quickly passed the long, straggling line of white
cottages that marked the pleasant watering-place of Cacouna. Our
travelers meant to visit it, and also Riviere-du-Loup, with its grand,
romantic waterfall, on the homeward way, but at present their thoughts
were engrossed with the Saguenay, and May's dreaming imagination was
already busy with the blue ridge of rounded hills that, as she was
told, marked the entrance and the course of that mysterious river.
But, as they crossed over towards the south side of the sea-like
river, they had a specimen of the glorious sunsets which form one of
the chief charms of Cacouna, shedding over the calm expanse of water a
flood of golden glory, and touching the distant hills with the richest
amethystine hues, till they seemed to float in a dreamy haze, between
the amber sky and the shimmering golden tide below. The sight held the
little party fascinated with its entrancing spell, and they remained
on deck heedless of the summons of the clamorous tea-bell, until the
rich hues and the golden glory had faded at last, not into the "light
of common day," but into the soft vagueness of the long northern
twilight. Then at last, with a sigh for the brief duration of the
beautiful vision, they descended to the lamp-lit cabin to enjoy the
appetizing evening meal, which their long afternoon in the bracing air
had made them all ready to thoroughly enjoy.
When they again came on deck they were just passing some straggling
islets, darkly green in the fast fading light, and rounding Pointe
Noire,--the fitly-named dark point of rock that guards the entrance to
the strange mysterious dark northern fiord about which have gathered
so many a marvelous story. And now May was eagerly looking out for
Tadousac, with her heroine Kitty, and the venerable old church and all
the little romance that followed, uppermost in her imagination. Then
those rounded sand-hills, skirted by rocks and fringed with a scanty
vegetation of stunted firs, were, Mr. Winthrop said, the
"Mamelons,"[1] about which cluster strange old Indian legends, of
fierce conflicts between the Algonquins and the Esquimaux--weird tales,
too, of a doom or curse on intermarriage of an Algonquin with an alien
race, which here overtook the offender with its inevitable Nemesis. In
the deepening gloaming, in the shadow of the dusky heights that
towered on high, casting long, dark, quivering reflections in the dark
mysterious stream, with scattered lights twinkling out here and there,
through the clustering foliage, is Tadousac. With its straggling brown
dwellings, and the massive timbers of the great pier storehouse
looming up in undefined vagueness above them, it was easy to imagine
any number of legendary tales of love and conflict; of
"Old unhappy things
And battles long ago."
as Hugh quoted once more. The steamer was made fast to the pier, with
much creaking and groaning, as if shuddering to begin the ascent of
the dark, fateful river, which, it is said, one of the earliest
explorers attempting with his men, found a fatal enterprise, none of
them ever returning to the light of day.
As the steamer was to remain here half an hour, the whole party
landed, as did most of the other passengers, to inspect the little
rude ancient church, built nearly three hundred years ago for the
Indians and the trappers who traded with them--the oldest surviving
building north of Mexico. They took the route which May had so often
followed in imagination with her shadowy friends of the story, across
the ravine and through the village, with its lights twinkling all over
its little cove, till they reached the plain, bare old wooden church,
beside which they stood for some time almost in silence, reverently
regarding the little wilderness-temple which had so long alone met the
needs and witnessed the devotions of men rough and rude, but men still
with the felt need of Divine help in their strange wild lives. But the
visitors could not enter, nor were they indeed anxious to do so, for
they felt that this might have broken the spell thrown over them by
the bare sombre, weather-beaten exterior and venerable associations.
Moreover, the steamer was already whistling its summons, so they set
out on their return through the same shadowy, suggestive gloom of dark
pine-studded rocks and deep murmuring unseen waterfalls, till they
came out suddenly on the clustered lights of the landing and the
steamer streaming with light through every crevice, just as May had
seen it so often, already, through the eyes of Miss Kitty Ellison.
Well, they had left Tadousac behind now, and had fairly entered into
the shadows of the dark and sullen Saguenay, which seems to lie like a
prisoner between its stern frowning warders and to have hewn out its
difficult passage to unite with the St. Lawrence, through the stern
rocks that would have shut it up in its lonely gloom forever. To Hugh,
the passage left behind seemed indeed a fortress-gate, strongly
flanked by tall overhanging rocks, crags with gnarled _savins_, and
white-stemmed birches gleaming even in the deepening dusk, clinging,
as if for life, to the jagged precipices. They had lost sight of the
twinkling lights of Tadousac, set in its little rocky niche of the
"_petite montagne qui est presque coupee par la mer_," as Champlain
had described it long ago, with its "little harbor," which would hold
only nine or ten ships in the _embouchure_ of the Saguenay, though
many more could find shelter in the bay that fronts the St. Lawrence.
The captain of the steamer told the young men about the little lake
close at hand, which guards the precious young salmon raised there for
the Government's fish-breeding establishment at Anse de l'eau.
And now the dark, vague forms of Titans seemed to rise up on either
hand,--great massive hills and cliffs that seemed almost to shut out
the light of the stars; and most of the party, growing tired of the
somewhat awesome silent procession, took refuge in the lighted saloon,
from whence soon came strains of sweet music, and the tones of Flora's
fresh young voice, in "Over the Sea to Skye," which seemed not
inappropriate to the _genius loci_. Mr. Winthrop and Hugh remained
talking with the captain about the more striking features of the
scenery and its historical associations; and to May, half listening to
them, half dreaming out again the vivid sketches of Parkman, the
solitude seemed peopled once more with the old explorers who
established ties of commerce between far-away St. Malo and these
lonely wilds,--Cartier and Roberval, Pontgrave and Chauvin, and their
bands of trappers and _voyageurs_, for whom the Indians paddled their
canoes, laden with costly furs, down this dark, fathomless stream. She
could realize more vividly the fate of one unfortunate band, left at
so lonely a post to starve, through one miserable winter. For, first,
by reason of its fabled wealth of gold and silver and precious stones,
and afterwards for the sake of its real riches in furs, the Saguenay
was even better known to the early pioneers than was the river between
Quebec and Montreal. Then, too, May's thoughts went back to that very
different little band of missionaries,--Recollets first, Jesuits
afterwards,--who came bearing a Christian message of love to the
savages of this wild region. She remembered how the trio of Jesuits
who first reached the river Sagne, as it was then called, in their
delight at reaching their goal, described it as being "as beautiful as
the Seine, almost as rapid as the Rhone, and deeper than many parts of
the sea," and how Pere Le Jeune, in particular, felt that they were
the forerunners of a host of brave soldiers of the Cross who should
subdue the land for the Lord. She remembered how the sight of some
poor Indian captives, cruelly tortured by their captors arrayed in all
their uncouth adornment of parti-colored paint, had so impressed the
good Fathers with pity, that they only longed for an opportunity of
preaching to them the gospel of love and peace, although, as Pere Le
Jeune observed, the same fate might at any time befall themselves.
And, indeed, Pere Le Jeune's, observation on that head is well worthy
of being recorded:
"In truth, I was cut to the heart. I had thought of coming to Canada,
only because I was sent. I felt no particular regard for the savages,
but I would have rendered obedience, had they sent me a thousand times
further; but I can truly say, that, even if I should have detested
this country, I should have been touched by what I have seen, had my
heart been brass. Would to God, that those who can help these poor
souls, and do something for their salvation, could be here for three
days! I think the desire of saving them would seize their whole
souls." Then he proceeds to reflect that in England, in Spain, in
Germany, when the Gospel was first carried thither, the barbarism of
the people had been as great. (He says nothing about France, evidently
considering that the time of _its_ barbarism belonged to remote
antiquity.) And further, that the Indians do not lack sense, but
instruction; and then goes on to speak of his plans for founding
schools for the more docile children; thus anticipating the
common-sense missionary policy of our own day. And he takes refuge in
the end, as all souls yearning for the salvation of their fellows have
had to do, in the promise of the Eternal: "_Dabo tibi gentes
heridatatem tuam, et possessionem termios terrae_."
In that same bay of Tadousac, too, May recollected, the good Fathers
had their first experience of what the St. Lawrence could do in the
way of a storm, and had reason to be thankful for the measure of
shelter which this bay could give them. As another sample of New World
experience, they were nearly eaten up by the mosquitoes and a host of
other insect persecutors, while the fireflies formed at least one
cheering exception as they glittered among the woods "like sparks of
fire, by which he could even see to read at night."
But the captain went on to talk about some of the old floating legends
that still increase the romantic interest attaching to this strange
river of the North,--of the fierce battles between the rival tribes, in
the course of one of which is said to have taken place the terrible
earthquake which rent asunder these scarped and jagged cliffs, to form
this sublime channel of the Saguenay. And he spoke, also, of the
romantic story which has been woven out of the old legend that a mixed
marriage between the white man and the Indian was followed by the
impending doom; and the terrible forest fires which have at times
swept over the whole region, scorching and destroying all life,
vegetable and animal, that lay in their course, and leaving their
melancholy traces in the splintered, seamed crags that raise aloft
majestic forms once clothed in a graceful drapery of green, now only
crested here and there with a dreary skeleton of their departed
forests. It was not difficult to imagine the awfulness of the scene at
night, when the billows of red flame and ruddy smoke rolled in dread
majesty over those grand hills, uncontrolled and uncontrollable, till
they were suddenly checked by the dark, deep waters of the cold and
deep river.
But the captain's talk ended, and Mr. Winthrop, who had gone up the
Saguenay before, was by and by attracted into the saloon, and only May
and Hugh Macnab were left on deck, with a few of the other passengers,
who, like themselves, were held by a sort of fascination in the savage
and sombre grandeur of the dark, cloud-like shapes that seemed to
unroll themselves before them in endless succession. It seemed strange
to sit there, as it were in the presence of the Infinities, in their
awful, everlasting silence, while lights were streaming from the
saloon and from it also were coming,--now snatches of the wild, wailing
melody of "Loch-Lomond," now of the gay little French love ditty;
"Il y'a long temps que je t'aime,
Jamais je ne t'oublierai!"
which Hugh absently hummed in concert with the singers within, setting
May again at work on her little romance, the ending of which was so
perplexing her at present. But this was only for a passing moment; for
the presence of these dark hills was too absorbing to admit other
thoughts. And now the faintly diffused light of the rising moon,
itself still hidden from view, made a pale background for the great
bold _silhouettes_, and showed, too, something more of their minor
features; and at last the bright silver disk, shorn of something of
its roundness, rose clear above the sharply defined edge of a jagged
crag, partially clothed with trees. And now the great grooves and
seams of the rocks could be distinctly discerned in unrelieved light
and shade,--and the dark lines of such vegetation as could here find a
foothold, with here and there a cluster of twinkling lights, marking a
little centre of human life in the midst of the wilderness. As they
advanced, the precipices grew bolder and bolder; one bold profile
after another became defined in the moonlight, then opened up new
vistas of the sea of hills and precipices which was continually
changing its relation to the spectator. And presently Hugh went in to
summon the rest of the party to come out, for, far away in the
distance, a practised eye could already discern, just touched by the
moonlight, the commanding peak and striking triple profile of Cape
Trinity. It seemed an impressive and solemn approach to the mighty
crag, growing every moment grander and more majestic in the pale
radiance of the moonlight. The triple effect, both vertically and
laterally, showed more effectively, though less distinctly, the
bare-browed cliff looking even more imposing than in daylight,--every
scarped crag and splintered pinnacle and barbicon standing out in the
sharpest contrast of light and shade. The travellers gazed up at the
giant, towering above them to such a height that it made one dizzy to
try to follow it with the eye; and so close did it seem impending over
the vessel, that they could scarcely realize their real distance from
it, till a copper coin, thrown by Mr. Winthrop with all his force,
came far short of the rocky wall, and fell into the dark stream below.
Cape Trinity left behind, Cape Eternity began to loom up in lonely
majesty beyond--its mighty mass partially clothed with verdure, and,
like the other, idealized in the moonlight. The awesomeness of its
grandeur oppressed them with an overpowering effect of dread
sublimity, and it was almost a relief when the steamer at last glided
away from those tremendous embodiments of nature's savage grandeur,
and saw rising before them vistas of a somewhat gentler, though still
bold and picturesque type.
But it was now long past midnight, and most of the party, despite
interest of the scene, were growing exceedingly sleepy. Mrs. Sandford,
indeed, had long ago retired to her state-room, declaring that neither
of the two famous cliffs were worth losing the best half of a night's
rest for! The rest of the party now followed her example, and as May
passed through the ladies' cabin to her state-room, she was startled
for a moment by seeing the dark forms of a number of sleeping nuns,
who occupied the sofas instead of berths. They were doubtless going
out from one of the great nunneries on a missionary expedition, and to
May it seemed delightfully in harmony with the spirit of the scene.
Nor would it have been at all difficult for her to imagine figures
called up from the old days when these dark uniforms were the only
civilized female dress in all the region of the Saguenay. She regarded
her own simple dark blue travelling dress with a sigh. It certainly
was not nearly so picturesque!
May slept soundly enough, notwithstanding the motion of the boat and
the creaking of the chains and timbers during the occasional
stoppages. But about daybreak she was awakened by the rattling of
chains and the confused clatter of voices, and started up in haste,
that she might not lose an hour of the wonderful scenery about her. On
coming out of her state-room, she was again somewhat startled by the
cluster of dark-robed nuns, some of whom were already up, and absorbed
in their morning devotions. But she had no time to think much about
them just then, for through the cabin window she caught a glimpse of
some wonderful granite peaks, touched with the loveliest rose-color by
the light of the sun, which had not yet risen above the rugged hills
that close in about the crescent curve of Ha-Ha Bay. Calling Flora to
make haste to follow her, she stood for a little time at the stern,
feasting her eyes on the exquisite solemn beauty of those granite
hills thus glorified by the coming day. Then, joined by Flora, to whom
the scene recalled her own Highland hills, she hastened on deck to
enjoy the full extent of the lovely view around them. They were lying,
stranded by the receding tide, near one end of the long bay, which
takes its name, according to some, from the surprised laugh of some of
the first explorers at finding themselves _cul-de-sac_;--according to
others, from their expression of satisfaction at having at last found
soundings in this apparently fathomless river. Just above them, now
gilded by the level sunlight, rose a rugged height of richly-tinted
granite, sprinkled by birch and balsam, at the foot of which clustered
the little grey-peaked wooden houses of the tiny hamlet of St.
Alphonse. The piazzas of the summer hotel, and the steep-roofed stone
church looked down from the hill-slope beyond the pier, and, far along
the sweeping curve of the bay, the gleaming village of St. Alexis
shone white on the green shore behind it, long sloping uplands of
arable land, while near it a black-hulled ship lay at anchor, the
first anchorage for the mariner on this dark rock-bound stream.
One by one the little party had collected on deck, with the exception
of Mrs. Sandford, keenly enjoying the loveliness of the hour and
scene; and already their fellow-passengers were beginning to leave the
steamer on various little expeditions, to fill up the hours which they
must wait for the turning of the tide--some to drive across the hills
or along the shore of the bay; others to stroll along the shining
sands and examine the long-stretching weir, composed of interlaced
boughs, jutting far out into the stream, which here presents the most
fascinating combination of sea-shore and inland river. A little party
of long-robed ecclesiastics, whom our travellers had noticed the
evening before, in a corner of the saloon, poring over their
breviaries, were seen slowly ascending the hill-slope, towards the
church, and Hugh suggested a stroll in the same direction, as the
hill-slope seemed a good point for observation of the surrounding
landscape.
The morning air blew cool and bracing in their faces as they left the
pier, the view before them growing grander and wider at every step.
They skirted the hotel grounds, where a few early stirring guests on
the piazza watched them with great interest, and soon found themselves
at the door of the church, from whence they could command a noble
panorama of hills and river in their cool, pale northern coloring,
somewhat warmed by the slanting rays of the early August sun. But when
they presently entered the church, the solemn hush of the scene within
carried off their thoughts in an entirely different direction. It
seemed a large church for so small a settlement, and the fresh and new
look, the white and gold decoration, and the robes of the priests,
seemed curiously out of keeping with the primitive wildness of the
surroundings. The party of ecclesiastics, who, it now appeared,
numbered a bishop among them, were there in full force, and a small
congregation, including several officers of the steamboat, were
already gathered for early mass. Hugh sat down reverently in the
nearest seat, and the others followed his example, and remained there
until the short service was completed. It was singularly restful and
soothing, and to May and Flora, despite their staunch Protestant
preferences, it was a memorable experience. The deep tones of the
officiating priest and the solemn chant of the psalms, seemed laden
with memories of the days when these same chants first arose in these
savage solitudes, from the rude bark chapel or the simpler forest
sanctuary, before the wondering eyes of the half-hostile Indians.
As the last chant died away on the ear, it was like awaking from a
dream of the remote past, to come out once more on the wide summer
landscape lying at their feet, the long line of level sands, the
stranded vessel, the still receding tide, the long stretch of gray
uplands and dark green hills. But breakfast began to seem a welcome
possibility, which quickened the steps of the travellers back to the
steamer, where they found Mrs. Sandford in a little flurry of concern
about their long absence, and more than ready, she declared, for her
breakfast. And after their early rising and their long stroll, it
scarcely needs be said how keenly they enjoyed the excellent breakfast
of porridge, smelts, salmon, fresh rolls, and excellent coffee--not
forgetting the blueberries for which the region is so famous. After
breakfast there was still some time before the steamer could move.
Flora hunted up her sketch-book, and went, accompanied by May and
Nellie, to make a sketch on shore, while Hugh Macnab and Jack
Armstrong, who insisted on coming, too, amused themselves by
clambering up the rocky height above them, to see what sorts of plants
might be growing among the crevices--for Hugh was something of a
naturalist as well as a poet. The others, including Mrs. Sandford,
preferred to remain on the deck of the steamer, watching the lumber
vessel take in her load, and the swift return of the tide, nearly as
remarkable for its speed as is the Scottish Solway, which has
furnished the comparison:--
"Love flows like the Solway
And ebbs like its tide."
As the girls sat there, a young, pleasant-faced _habitante_ came up to
them, followed by two or three tiny children, glad to exchange a word
with the strangers, and to offer for sale tiny canoes, which the
inexperienced hands of the children had shaped, in imitation of the
pretty toy canoes offered for sale at all the booths of French and
Indian wares. They spoke no English, and May was too doubtful of _her_
French to try it, but Nellie and Flora opened a conversation with her,
to her evident pleasure, for, in so secluded a spot, a talk with a
stranger is an event. "Yes," she said, after telling the names and
ages of the children; "yes, the summer _is_ very short, and the winter
long and cold." But then her husband stays at home, and in summer he
is away, working on boats, and that is evidently compensation--for he
is "_un bon garcon_." And indeed she seemed a happy wife and mother,
for the blessings of life, happily, generally counterbalance its
privations. The girls gladly bought the tiny canoes, the "'prentice
work" of the little childish hands, and, after an interested
inspection of Flora's sketch, and many admiring comments thereupon,
they parted--the travellers to return to the steamer, the children and
their mother to return to their _cabane_, happy in their little store
of silver coins. And now the tide has flowed in, up to the end of the
weirs, the scattered passengers are collected on board, and the
steamer, with screw revolving once more, glides swiftly out of Ha-Ha
Bay, leaving behind all its rugged beauty and its primitive, secluded
life; and turns up another bend of the fiord, towards the great hill
curves that bound the vista. Point after point, bend after bend,
succeed each other in bewildering succession, while the travellers
feel once more how distinct is the stern sublimity of the Saguenay
from the grand beauty of the St. Lawrence. The great, bare splintered
crags that rear their grey, furrowed brows to the sky, the endless
succession of pine-crested hills, craggy points, dark, deep gorges,
and weather-worn and lichen-scarred rocks, contorted by fire and water
into every conceivable form, seemed almost oppressive, at last, in
their almost unbroken savage wilderness. Here and there green uplands
and stretches of softer forest verdure, or sheltered valleys, with
little settlements nestling in their laps, or clinging to the
sheltering rocks, introduce a gentler tone; but the general impression
is one of savage sterility, scarred by the traces of devastation on
the fire-swept hills, bristling with dark tree skeletons, and by the
sullen darkness of the stream itself. And now and then the sky grew
grey, too, as a sudden squall swept down the gorge; and it was easy to
associate with the wild mountain fiord the strange tales told to the
early explorers, and to see in imagination the fur-laden canoes, with
their silent, dusky paddlers wending their way down the rocky _canyon_,
which the river seems to have hewn for itself with such difficulty,
from the inaccessible solitudes behind, through the sea of rocks
between these and the St. Lawrence.
As they steamed onward towards Chicoutimi, however, which is the real
head of the bay, the scenery becomes softer in type, and, amid the
rolling uplands, cluster little white villages, each with its guardian
church. Chicoutimi, with its fine stone church on the hill, and its
sawmill and lumber-yard below, comes into view, as they round one of
the numberless points, a place of some consequence in this lumbering
country. The steamer stops at the pier, and the little band of
_religieuses_ disembark and wend their way to the convent on the hill,
while May and Flora watch their black-robed figures and vainly
speculate on their past and their future, wondering what routine of
duties awaits them here, and whether they are of the same heroic fibre
with those who, two hundred years ago, crossed the stormy ocean into
exile in this wilderness, in order to nurse sick Indians and teach
Indian children their _Pater-Noster_.
As the steamer left Chicoutimi behind, Hugh Macnab and Mr. Winthrop
discovered two or three half-breed _voyageurs_, coming down with the
luggage, boats, etc., of a party of gentlemen who had been canoeing
among the rocks and rapids of the "Grand Discharge" of the Saguenay,
in the comparatively untrodden wilds into which no steamer can
penetrate, and tracing the dark waters up to their source in Lake St.
John. The swarthy good-humored boatmen were eagerly questioned and
cross-questioned by the three young men, till it became clear, to the
observant Kate, at least, that they were planning some private
excursion of their own, not in the original programme of their party,
though at present they all observed an obstinate silence as to any
such idea.
Meantime, they all sat dreamily watching the long procession of
headland, rock, and hill,--a silver thread of cascade occasionally
trickling down the dark precipices, wondering at the variety and
effect produced with such apparent sameness of material. But, behold!
a great grey Titan looms up behind a distant headland, seeming to
pierce the sky; and the passengers, English, American and Canadian,
begin to crowd the forward deck, with eager outlook. A little farther,
and the vast breadth and height of Cape Eternity uprears its mighty
mass overhead,--its summit seeming lost in the sky, across which great
clouds are rapidly drifting. May thought it had looked even grander in
the moonlight, which seemed to expand it into infinity; but Hugh and
Mr. Winthrop declared that to them it was no less imposing in the
clear light of day, which gave it the strength and force of reality.
Scarcely had they ceased gazing in fascination at its mighty mass,
when Kate, pointing triumphantly before them, drew their attention to
the still grander headland, the mighty triple profile of Cape Trinity.
And now, just above their heads, as it seemed, that sublime rock was
unfolding its triple unity, both vertical and lateral, each way
divided into three distinct heads; a far more impressive
individuality, they all agreed, than the sister cape. Again came that
curious optical illusion of the great precipice towering immediately
overhead in close proximity to the boat,--a delusion only dispelled
with much difficulty after seeing that the pebbles which the
passengers amused themselves by throwing at it, fell invariably a long
way short of their aim. And a feeling of soul-subduing awe stole over
May, as she threw back her head, and tried to scan the entire face of
those lofty summits which seemed to rear their grey, weather-beaten
heads into the very empyrean! Here and there, a stray bit of
vegetation clung with difficulty to a cleft in the rock, seeming to
emphasize its ruggedness and stern majesty. But, as Hugh observed, and
all agreed, the white statue of the Virgin, placed, by Roman Catholic
piety, in a niche of the crag seemed an impertinence, even from the
broadest point of view, for surely they felt that grand Mount Horeb,
symbol of Divine Majesty, should have been profaned by no mortal
image. Nevertheless, when the steamer slackened speed, just under the
precipice, and the sailors in solemn cadence chanted an "Ave Maria,"
there was a pathetic earnestness and an antique, old-world air about
the proceeding which was very impressive. What Hugh himself thought of
the grand, wonderful bit of nature's architecture, found its way to
paper in the course of the afternoon, the lines taking shape in his
mind as the too swiftly receding lines of Cape Trinity faded away into
dim remoteness, when it seemed to all the party that the central
figure, the chief interest of the Saguenay, had passed out of the
scene. And, after the long strain of attention,--the effort to lose
none of the ever-changing grandeur of the shifting panorama,--it was
almost a relief when the showery clouds that had gathered so grandly
about Cape Trinity, deepened into a leaden grey; and mist and rain
began to blot out all save the nearest hills. As they sat watching in
somewhat sombre mood the silent procession of mist-laden hills, with
here and there a white thread of waterfall trickling down their sides,
and the white whales and porpoises splashing in the dark stream
below,--the only sign of life in all the great solitude, while an
occasional gleam of sunshine, from an opening cloud, threw a golden
gleam to relieve the stern aspect of the scene, Hugh was called on for
a reading from a volume into which he had been dipping during the day.
It was the copy of Charles Sangster's poems, which he had procured in
Montreal, and he willingly gave them a few stanzas from the poet's
description of the Saguenay;--the following lines, in particular,
seeming to express the very spirit of the scenery about them:--
"In golden volumes rolls the blessed light
Along the sterile mountains. Pile on pile
The granite masses rise to left and right;--
Bald, stately bluffs that never wear a smile;
Where vegetation fails to reconcile
The parched shrubbery and stunted trees
To the stern mercies of the flinty soil.
And we must pass a thousand bluffs like these,
Within whose breasts are locked a myriad mysteries.
"Dreaming of the old years, before they rose,
Triumphant from the deep, whose waters rolled
Above their solemn and unknown repose;
Dreaming of that bright morning, when, of old,
Beyond the red man's memory, they told
The secrets of the Ages to the sun,
That smiled upon them from his throne of gold,--
Dreaming of the bright stars and loving moon,
That first shone on them from the night's impressive noon;
"--Dreaming of the long ages that have passed
Since then, and with them that diminished race
Whose birchen fleets those inky waters glassed,
As they swept o'er them with the wind's swift pace.
Of their wild legends scarce remains a trace;
Thou hold'st the myriad secrets in thy brain,
Oh stately bluffs! as well seek to efface
The light of the bless'd stars, as to obtain
From thy sealed, granite lips, tradition or refrain!"
"That is striking poetry," said Mr. Winthrop. "The author deserves to
be better known! But the wild legends of the past have not entirely
passed away. Now and then, one comes across an old legend or story
among a set of fellows like our _voyageur_ friends there."
"Yes," said Hugh, "that is one reason why I should like to explore the
wilds about Lake St. John! I think one might pick up from our guides
some old stories that would be interesting. But I was reading, this
morning, a pathetic little legend which is said to be still cherished
among the Montagnais Indians, concerning one of the pious Jesuit
Fathers, who was wont long ago to minister in that little grey church
at Tadousac."
"Oh, do tell it to us!" said Kate and Nellie, in a breath; and Hugh
readily complied, telling the tale, in substance as follows:
"One of the most benignant and beloved of these pioneer missionaries
was Pere La Brosse, the last of the old Jesuit Fathers of Tadousac,
and the story of his 'Passing' reads almost like a French-Indian
version of the 'Passing of Arthur.' Strange, how that wistful,
pathetic interest, clustering round the death of the good and gentle
and strong, crops up everywhere, among all sorts and conditions of
men!
"Well, the story runs, that, at the close of an April day, spent as
usual in fulfilling the duties of his pastoral office among his Indian
converts, the venerable Father had spent the evening in cheerful
converse with some of the French officers of the post. As he rose to
leave them, to their amazement he solemnly bade them a last adieu,
telling them that, at midnight, he would be a corpse, and at that hour
the chapel bell would toll for his passing soul. He charged them not
to touch his body, but to go at once to the lower end of the Ile aux
Coudres, which, you know, we passed yesterday, many miles up the St.
Lawrence, and bring thence Messire Compain, whom they would find
awaiting them, and who would wrap him in his shroud and lay him in his
grave. They were to carry out his bidding, regardless of what the
weather might be, and he would answer for their safety. The astonished
and awe-stricken party of rough traders and Indians kept anxious
vigil, till, at midnight, the chapel bell began to toll. Startled by
the solemn sound at dead of night, they all rushed tremblingly into
the church. There, as he had foretold, they found Pere La Brosse,
lying prostrate before the altar, his hands joined in prayer, and the
seal of death on his tranquil face. With awe-struck sorrow, they
watched for dawn, that they might fulfil the father's last command.
With sunrise, arose an April gale, but trusting to the promise of one
who had won their unfaltering trust, four brave men set out on their
appointed errand, in a fragile canoe, breasting the big rolling waves,
which, however, seemed to open a passage for the frail bark, and, in a
marvellously short time, they had reached Ile aux Coudres; and there,
as Pere La Brosse had said, sat Pere Compain on the rocks, breviary in
hand, ready to accompany them back to do the last offices for the
dead. He, too, had received a mysterious warning. The night before,
his chapel bell had tolled at midnight for a passing soul, and a voice
had told him what had happened and what he was expected to do. And it
said, moreover, that in all the Missions where Pere La Brosse had
served the chapel bells tolled at the moment of his death."
"Well!" exclaimed Mr. Winthrop, "that is a story that _ought_ to be
true, _ben trovato_, at least, as the Italians say, if we only had
faith enough. One could almost find it in one's heart to believe it
here, in these wild solitudes, even in this degenerate, sceptical
age!"
"Now, Hugh," observed Kate, "why shouldn't _you_ write a '_Mort de
Pere La Brosse_' _a la_ Tennyson? I'm sure it would make a lovely
poem."
"Perhaps he will, by and by," said Flora, a little mischievously.
"Meantime, I found in a book of his this sonnet on Cape Trinity. I was
sure he was composing something of the kind!"
"Oh, that's not fair!" said Hugh. "That's not revised yet."
But there was an unanimous demand for the reading of it, and under
protest, Hugh allowed Flora to read it.
"Thou weather-beaten watchman, grim and grey,
Towering majestic, with thy regal brow,
O'er all the thronging hills that seem to bow
In humble homage, near and far away;--
Even thy great consort seems to own thy sway,
In her calm grandeur, scarce less grand than thou
Rising, star-crowned, from the dark world below,
So lonely in thy might and majesty!
Thy rugged, storm-scarred forehead to the blast
Thou barest,--all unscreened thy Titan form,
Radiant in sunset, dark in winter storm,
So thou hast stood, through countless ages past,
What comes or goes, it matters not to thee,
Serene, self-poised in triple unity!"
As she finished reading the lines, a rift in the breaking clouds let a
rich gleam of sunset through, and they caught a brief glimpse of a
distant lofty summit, probably Cape Trinity, glowing out in crimson
glory, like a great garnet, set amid the grey mountain curves.
They all watched it silently, till it passed out of sight in the
windings of the stream. It was a sight to carry away as "a joy
forever,"--a fitting parting gleam of the grandeur of the Saguenay.
And swiftly it all fades from sight as the veil of twilight falls once
more about them, softening the hard outlines of the iron hills into
cloud-like phantasms, while the twinkling lights of Tadousac again
gleam out from the shaggy cliffs, soon again to be left behind, as
they pass out of the rocky _embouchure_, under the starlight, into the
wide reach of the St. Lawrence and cross its wide expanse to the
distant shore, where they stop at length at the long-stretching pier
of Riviere-du-Loup. This time they disembark, and are soon driving
rapidly along the two mile sweep of curving road, with a late gibbous
moon rising above the trees, as they approach the straggling environs
of Fraserville. They are speedily installed in a comfortable little
French inn, with a plain but comfortable supper before them, and a
lively group of French Canadians chattering gayly around them in their
rapid patois. As it happens, these prove to be a party of musicians,
whose music, vocal and instrumental, and gay little French Canadian
songs serenade them till irresistible sleep closes eyes more weary
with sight-seeing than their owners had before realized.
No one was up very early next morning, for human nature cannot stand
perpetual motion. But, as the day was fine, though cool, a carriage
was ordered immediately after breakfast and the whole party were once
more _en route_, driving over a straight smooth road to the old
Riviere-du-Loup, and thence to the noble waterfall, whose wild
picturesque beauty seems close to the little town.
Leaving the carriages, they all walked on by a winding path, till they
came to a grassy spur of the slope, jutting out, as it seemed, rather
more than half down, close to one side of the fall. Here, though they
could not see the whole extent of the cascade, they could get an
impressive view of its volume and beauty, as it came thundering down
the dark grey height, clad with dusky pines; so that, looking up to
the crest of foliage above, it seemed to come thundering down in snowy
spray and foam, out of the very bosom of the primeval forest. To May
it seemed almost as grand as _Montmorency_, though far short of it in
height. And, like Montmorency, it vividly brought back the memory of
incomparable Niagara. The spell of the falling water,--"falling forever
and aye,"--had its usual influence on her, and she sat dreaming there,
scarcely conscious of herself or the flight of time, while the rest of
the party wandered about, surveying the waterfall from other points of
view. But at last she was aroused from her reverie by Hugh, who came,
despatched by Kate, in quest of her, to bring her down to the foot of
the Fall where the others were resting, and where she could see it, as
it were, _en masse_.
She lingered a moment, however, reluctant to leave the charming little
nook. "See!" she said to Hugh, as she rose to accompany him
down,--"look at those exquisite little harebells, growing so peacefully
out of that green moss under the very spray of this rush of foaming
water."
Hugh smiled as he looked down at the fragile flower, cradled, as it
were, in the midst of the turbulent commotion. He stooped over and
picked two of the drooping blossoms carefully, handing one to May,
while he studied the other, in its graceful, delicate beauty. "It is
an embodied poem!" he exclaimed, as they turned slowly away.
"Then, won't you write out the poem it embodies, for the rest of us to
read?" said May, somewhat timidly, and surprised at her own temerity.
"If I can, I will," he replied, frankly. "It doesn't always follow,
because one may _see_ an embodied poem, that one can translate it into
verse!"
At the foot of the Falls, they all sat for an hour or two, enjoying
the comprehensive, though somewhat less impressive view of the whole
fall, as it came rushing down the dark gorge, in sheets of silvery
foam and clouds of snowy spray. And here, in a grassy nook, under some
trees, they sat for some time watching the Falls, Flora declaring that
it reminded her of some of their finest Scottish waterfalls and also
of one or two she had seen in Switzerland. Before they left their
quiet halting place, Hugh, who had been sitting very silent for some
time, handed quietly to May, a leaf from his note-book, on which, with
much satisfaction, she read the following lines:--
"Where the great, thundering cataract tosses high
Its crest of foam, 'mid thunders deep and dread,
A tiny harebell, from its mossy bed,
Smiles, softly blue, to the blue summer sky,
And the great roaring flood that rages by,
In sheets of foam on the grey rocks outspread
But sheds a tender dew upon its head.
--Emblem of hearts whose gentle purity,
Seeks only heaven in this rude earth of ours;
Dwelling in safety 'mid the roar and din
Of human passion, as in sheltered bowers;
Growing in beauty, 'mid turmoil and sin,
--Keeping the hue of heaven, like the flowers,
Because they keep the hue of heaven within!"
"Oh," exclaimed May, looking up from its perusal, "_that_ is almost
just what I was thinking about it, myself, only I couldn't put it into
words like that!"
"I'm glad I happened to catch your thought," he replied. "Keep the
lines for yourself, if you care for them, in memory of this pleasant
day."
"We've had so many pleasant days!" said May,--wistfully,--for she felt
that they were fast drawing to a close. And if the young men really
took that canoe trip up the Saguenay, their party would be divided
during the sojourn at Murray Bay,--their last halting place. But she
felt that she could never lose the memory of that delightful journey,
and all its enjoyments.
After going back to the hotel for an early dinner, they ordered the
carriages again and drove in the soft afternoon sunshine,--now
beginning to assume a slightly autumnal air, over the low, level
stretch of sandy road, leading through skirting spruce and cedar, to
the long straggling settlement of Cacouna, mainly composed of summer
cottages, with its hotels and little church. Most of the cottages are
scattered along a high sloping bank, just above the sea-like river,
where the bathing, albeit lacking the surf, is almost as good as in
the open sea. The Armstrongs had friends residing in Cacouna for the
summer, and the party drove directly to their cottage, where they met
with a most cordial welcome, were shown all the sights of the
vicinity, and finally regaled with "afternoon tea" on the veranda,
from whence they enjoyed one of the grand sunsets for which Cacouna is
famous, the bold hills on the north shore, here etherealized by
distance,--reflecting the glory of the rich sunset sky in the most
exquisite tones of purple and rose.
Next morning, the little party took an early train from
Riviere-du-Loup, on the Intercolonial Railway, to see the remainder of
the river shore as far as Bic, where the Gulf may almost be said to
begin, and the river end. It was a charming ride along the high land a
little back from the river, yet still occasionally in sight of it,
with the grand hills of the north shore looking cloud-like and remote,
as they came into view of the beautiful bay of Bic, surrounded by its
noble hills, with its picturesque coves, its level beach, and its wide
flats, studded with black rocks. Away in the distance, beyond the tall
bluffs which guard the mouth of the bay, and the islands which also
protect its harbor, lay the deep blue wooded island of Bic, and beyond
that, again, the far distant north shore, looking like a cloud of mist
on the horizon. Here they had to stop, for, beyond that, the railway
leaves the river to wind its way through the ravines of Metis, and
then over the hills to the famous valley of the Matapedia, whose
charms, fascinating as they are, were not for the travelers--on this
journey at least. They spent a few hours pleasantly at Bic, strolling
through its village, set on a plateau high above the beach, or
wandering over the flats, where two rivers sluggishly find the end of
their journey, and gathering seaweeds among the little pools and
rocks, which reminded the Scotch cousins so strongly of their own
seaside home. They climbed up some of the gentler slopes of the high
rugged hills, to get a still wider view, and to feel the bracing salt
breath of the sea come sweeping up the river, while Kate described the
beauties of Gaspe, peninsula and basin, and the wonderful Perce rock,
which she had once visited on a voyage down the Gulf; and Mr. Winthrop
told them of a grim old tradition of the island of Bic,--of a sort of
Indian edition of the massacre of Glencoe, when a branch of the fierce
Iroquois had caught a comparatively helpless band of Micmacs with many
women and children, in a cave, and had smoked them out, to meet death
if they escaped it within.
But they had now reached the eastern-most limit of their
progress--still leaving, as Hugh said, some "Yarrow unvisited." They
took the returning afternoon train back to Riviere-du-Loup, for their
course must now be "Westward-Ho!" At Riviere-du-Loup, they waited for
the Saguenay boat, and re-embarked for Murray Bay, which they reached
about midnight, landing at the high pier under the pale ghostly light
of the waning moon, which gave a strange unreal look to the houses on
the shore, and especially to the strangely shapen rock, which, rising
solitary near the point, gives it its name of "Point Au Pic" (or
Pique). There were an abundance of _caleches_ in waiting, and the
travellers distributed themselves among these, and were soon driven
along the straggling village street to their destination,--the "Central
Hotel," chosen by Kate on account of its delightful view. But the
"Central" was too full for so large a party, as the landlord declared
with many regrets,--so the ladies were accommodated very comfortably at
the "Warren House," next door, while the young men were put up
temporarily at the "Central" as they intended leaving on their canoe
trip very early in the week.
May had been feeling that, since this trip began, she had had so many
delightful impressions, that she could scarcely find room for any
more. But the first sight of the grand vista of noble hills that
enfold Murray Bay, as it were, in their embrace, gleaming out under
snowy mists, in the fair breezy morning, made her feel that she had by
no means lost the receptive power, and that she had much to see and
admire yet. It was a peaceful Sunday morning, and a Sabbath rest
seemed to enwrap the blue hills that encompassed the long bay,
receding in lovely curves and peaks behind each other, till they were
lost in a soft vagueness of distance. Just about the middle of the
long curve of the bay, and showing whitely against a background of
deep green woods, a white church stood out as a sort of centre to the
little brown French village that clustered about it on both sides of
the Murray River. Below the bridge stretched long brown sands with a
strip of blue water in the middle, and a three-masted vessel lying
stranded by the receding tide;--while just across the bay, narrowed by
the low tide, rose the long bold headland of Cap a l'Aigle, jutting
far out into the wide blue expanse of the St. Lawrence, bounded on the
southern shore by a wavy line of soft blue and purple hills,
glistening with silvery specks, which were, in reality, distant French
villages. It was a feast to the eye, a refreshing to the whole being,
simply to sit there and take in the lovely vista. May, for one, was
glad that it was Sunday, and that, therefore, there could be no
excursions, but that she could sit quietly there as long as she
liked,--dreaming or thinking, or reading a little of the old Scripture
poetry about the "Everlasting hills;"--but ever and anon looking up to
see the realization of words which had formerly left on her mind a
rather vague impression of their meaning. Nothing which she had seen
seemed to her so satisfying to her ideal of beauty. Niagara had its
own solitary overpowering grandeur, but no surrounding scenery. The
Saguenay hills were too stern in their solemn splendor. At Quebec, the
view seemed almost too wide, too complex; but this charming valley,
with its brown-beached blue bay, nestling amongst these richly wooded
hills, with rank after rank of mountain tops,--as they seemed to her,
fading away into the distant blue, seemed to have all the unity and
beauty of a well-composed picture, and to satisfy her imagination
without her knowing why. Flora was in an ecstasy. The scene reminded
her strongly of some of her own Highland glens; and Hugh and she were
soon eagerly comparing it with one after another of their favorite
resorts,--tracing its points both of resemblance and of dissimilarity.
The young men of the party had taken an early bath, and pronounced the
water very bracing indeed, but also decidedly cold--too cold, they
thought, for the girls to attempt; notwithstanding which, however,
Kate and Flora announced their intention of trying it next day. At
eleven they all went to church at a neat little chapel close by, built
for the use of the Protestant visitors, and used alternately for an
Episcopalian and a Presbyterian service, an instance of brotherly
unity which might be indefinitely extended. To Flora's great
satisfaction, (for she was a staunch little Scottish churchwoman,) the
service that day happened to be the Presbyterian one--the first time,
she observed, that she had had the pleasure of attending her own
service since she had left her native land. To Hugh it did not matter,
she observed, for he liked one just as well as another, to which he
replied that he was by no means so superior to the power of
association, which must, in most cases, after all, determine our
ecclesiastical preferences.
As there was no evening service, an evening stroll in Nature's great
temple around them was proposed instead, for which the young people
were ready enough after the long, quiet day of rest. Mrs. Sandford,
who had not yet recovered from the fatigue of so incessant travelling,
preferring to sit on the veranda with her book,--the latter taking the
place of her knitting-needles, which lately had had an unusual
respite. Nellie Armstrong, however, who had a headache, elected to
stay with her, so the rest started, perhaps all the more satisfied,
pairing off naturally--Mr. Winthrop, of course, with Kate; Jack
Armstrong with Flora; while Hugh and May were left as inevitable
companions. May, as on some similar occasions, felt at first slightly
uncomfortable; but this feeling soon wore off, for Hugh and she had
become excellent comrades, and now found many subjects for
conversation; and she felt that he had by this time accepted Mr.
Winthrop as a permanent factor in the situation, and was determined to
make the best of it. And May in her heart esteemed him all the more
for the cheerfulness with which he had adapted himself to the
inevitable!
They walked, by a rambling footpath, along the sandy, reedy shore of
the bay, until they had at length to betake themselves to the ordinary
road, striking it close to a picturesque old mill, with a little
waterfall plashing over the moss-grown old waterwheel, just as she had
so often seen it in pictures of English scenery. They reached the
French village of Murray Bay, and passed close to the white church
which had made the centre of the picture in the distance, and the
pretty little _Presbytere_, with its shady garden-walks overlooking
the river, on one of which May discerned a black-cassocked figure, in
whom she immediately conjured up a modern Pere La Brosse. Then on,
past the little brown French houses, with their steep roofs and
balconies, and tidy, if bare, exteriors,--each one apparently
possessing its great wooden cupboard, and large box stove for the cold
winter days. Crossing the bridge over the Murray, from which there was
a lovely view up the valley, into the heart of the hills, they held on
their way up the wooded slope beyond, past a little memorial chapel
under the shadowing pines, which interested the girls so much that
they declared they must get the key and see the interior some day; and
then onward by an open, breezy bit of road, skirting on one side
undulating woods, gilded by slanting sunlight, and on the other
affording glimpses of pleasant manorial residences between them and
the river. And then they came out on the high table-land of the
"_Cap_," from whence they could see the wide river expanse, now taking
on soft hues of rose, and purple, and opal, and the far distant hills
beyond, also glorified by the sunset.
But May's steps had begun to flag a little, and her cheek to grow
rather pale, and Hugh said that he was sure she was tired, and
proposed that they should go no farther, but take a rest until the
others returned. May looked rather wistfully at Kate and Flora, still
stepping on, evidently unwearied. But although much stronger than when
she had left home, May was not so strong, yet, as the other two, and
it was of no use to pretend that she was not very tired.
"Let us walk back to that pine-crested bluff," said Hugh. "There we
can sit quite comfortably till the others come back."
They strolled back very slowly, and it occurred to May, _a propos_ of
her own fatigue, how much more Hugh could stand than he could have
done a month ago; and how seldom even "Aunt Bella" now worried him
with well-meant exhortations to take extra care. The outdoor life of
the past weeks had certainly done wonders for this sunburnt, active
young man, with elastic step and firm tread, who seemed so different a
being from the pale and somewhat languid stranger to whom she had been
first introduced. But she soon forgot everything else in the fair
scene that lay at their feet, half screened by the pine boughs that
drooped above them; for no fairer view had greeted her during the
whole journey. Opposite, across the blue bay below them, lay Point au
Pic, with its pier and its monumental rock, its straggling cottages,
and the long, hilly, wooded ridge that swept round the corner of the
bay on the other side. To their left lay the broad, sunset-flushed
river, with the wavy line of delicate hues beyond it. The two watched
the lovely glow of color for some time in silence. At last, when the
scene was swiftly taking on the grayness of evening, Hugh remarked:
"How many lovely evenings we have seen! And this seems almost the
loveliest of all."
"Yes. It almost makes one sad to think that they are nearly all
past,"--she replied, with a little wistful sigh.
"I don't know that it _should_, however," replied Hugh. "We can't lose
their memories and their influences. _That_ seems to become part of
our being, and we shall always be the richer for it. You know 'a thing
of beauty is a joy forever.' Do you know," he continued, after a
pause, as May did not reply, "this great river on which we have been
wandering so long, seems to me to present a very fair parable of human
life. It comes, like Wordsworth's version of our infancy, out of the
mysterious majesty of Niagara, and that great sea-like lake. Then it
has its tranquil sunny morning amid the lovely mazes of the Thousand
Islands, which, like ourselves, it seems reluctant to forsake, for the
more work-a-day rural stretch below. Then comes the strenuous time of
conflict,--the '_sturm und drang_' period of the rapids, and then the
calm strength, the gradual expansion, the growing dignity of a noble
life, till at last we have this exquisite sunset, glorifying a river
that is swiftly passing on, to lose itself in the great 'silent sea,'
symbolizing the beauty of the same rich and noble life, passing away
from its old familiar shores to lose itself in the boundlessness of
eternity."
"I think you have got material for another poem there," May observed,
smiling, though touched by the emotion which seemed to have carried
him on unconsciously. She and Hugh had got into the way of talking
about his literary endeavors. There was another pause, and then Hugh
looked up from his note-book, into which he had been looking.
"Do you recollect," he asked, "a lovely morning we had, just after
coming to Sumach Lodge?"
"Yes," replied May, promptly, "the morning you rowed me over to that
pretty little island, when the river was so calm, and it all looked so
lovely."
"And I wrote some verses there, which I should like to read to you, to
see how you like them. May I?"
May looked a little perplexed, for she had not forgotten that he had
seemed anxious that she should _not_ see them, _then_, and with her
_idee fixe_ of his hopeless passion for Kate--she had connected those
verses in some way with that imaginary romance. However, she listened
with great interest to his low toned reading:
In gleam of pale, translucent amber woke
The perfect August day,
Through rose-flushed bars of pearl and opal broke
The sunlight's golden way.
Serenely the placid river seemed to flow
In tide of amethyst,
Save where it rippled o'er the sands below,
And granite boulders kissed;
The heavy woodland masses hung unstirred
In languorous slumber deep,
While, from their green recesses, one small bird
Piped to her brood--asleep.
The clustering lichens wore a tenderer tint,
The rocks a warmer glow;
The emerald dewdrops, in the sunbeam's glint,
Gemmed the rich moss below.
Our fairy shallop idly stranded lay,
Half mirrored in the stream;
Wild roses drooped above the tiny bay,
Ethereal as a dream.
You sat upon your rock, a woodland queen,
As on a granite throne;
All that still world of loveliness serene
Held but us twain alone.
Nay! But there seemed another presence there
Beneath, around, above;
It breathed a poem through the crystal air,
Its name was _Love_!"
May listened to the poem with a rather bewildered feeling: it was so
different from what she had expected. But gradually the images
suggested by it took possession of her mind to the exclusion of other
thoughts, and she scarcely noticed the closing lines, in the pleasure
which it gave her to have that lovely morning so vividly recalled. But
Hugh seemed to look for more than the pleasure she frankly expressed.
He was silent for a few moments, then said in a very low tone, looking
straight into her eyes, "I think that what brought the poem was my
finding out, then, _that I loved you_!"
May was utterly taken by surprise, which indeed, overpowered every
other feeling. She had not a word to say. Hugh saw how unprepared she
had been for his avowal. Presently she managed to stammer out, "I
thought it was--Kate!"
"I _know_ you did, at first," he replied, "but I thought you must have
known better, _now_! I haven't acted very much like a jealous lover,
have I, since Mr. Winthrop appeared on the scene? And any one could
see how that was going to turn out. No, May, I'm sure I've tried to
make you understand!"
But May still sat silent, in a sort of dazed bewilderment. At last,
the ludicrous aspect of the mistake--all her sincere, misplaced
sympathy with Hugh in troubles which were entirely of her own
imagining, struck her so vividly that she laughed outright, though her
laugh had a rather hysterical note in it, and she felt that it was
most inappropriate to so serious a crisis. But the personal aspect of
the affair, she could not yet at all take in. Hugh laughed a little,
too, reading her thoughts; but presently he said gravely enough:
"Well, May, now that the mistake is cleared up, you're not going to
say you can't care for me! Why should we not travel down the river of
life together? I mean down the river to the sea,"--he added pleadingly.
"Oh, Mr. Macnab," she replied, at last, "it is so strange to me! I
don't seem able to realize it. And I have never thought of you in that
way."
"Well, dear," he said, gently, "I won't hurry you; but you and I are
very good friends, I think, which is an excellent beginning, and I
don't see why we couldn't be something _more_. But take plenty of time
to find out! I'll promise to be patient meantime. Only, as I am going
away to-morrow for a few days, I wanted to try my fate, at least, and
make sure that you knew my feelings before I left--for one never knows
_what_ may turn up."
May's face changed when he spoke of the approaching parting, which was
only, of course, the prelude to one of much longer duration, since she
herself must return home as soon as the party reached Toronto, on its
homeward journey. And the thought gave her a sharp pang which she
could not ignore. Still, she was not sorry to hear the voices of the
others not far off, and to know that this rather embarrassing
_tete-a-tete_ was nearly over. Hugh detained her a moment, however.
"I won't press you any farther now," he said; "only promise me that
you will think about it while I am gone, and perhaps you may be able
to answer me as I wish, when I come back."
May readily promised this,--glad to have a little time to grow familiar
with an idea which had seemed so strange to her at first. The rest of
the walk was very quiet,--Hugh talking about indifferent things, while
she found it difficult to keep up conversation at all.
Next morning it was decided that, as it was too fine a morning to
lose, where there was so much to see, the whole party should drive
down to the Falls of the Fraser, taking luncheon with them, that so
they might not have to hurry back until the time when the three young
men should have to tear themselves away from the society which, to say
the truth, they were all reluctant to leave,--in order to take the
steamer down again to Tadousac for the projected canoe trip on the
upper Saguenay, and so on to the wilds about Lake St. John. As they
were to go in _caleches_, however, Mrs. Sandford begged off, and
Nellie Armstrong was packed into a _caleche_ with her brother and
Flora Macnab--Jack, who was familiar with the vehicle, having
volunteered to act as charioteer.
It was a charming drive on such a charming day,--the light
cloud-shadows chasing each other over the hills, and causing
bewitching effects of light and shade on the distant hills. Their
course lay along the Murray River for some distance, past the bridge
and village, then back among the hills beyond, up and down short
hills, so abrupt that the descent was often like to jerk the riders
off the little high seats; but Jack assured them all, in his cheery
voice, that the _caleche_ was at once the easiest and the safest
vehicle for these hills, and that every French-Canadian pony knew just
how to behave on such roads, if only his driver gave him fair play.
And the French drivers of the other _caleches_ smiled and declared
that it was "shoost as de shentleman said." Kate and Mr. Winthrop had
of course paired off, so that Hugh and May went together, as a matter
of course; but Hugh abstained from the slightest reference of any kind
to their conversation of the previous evening, for which May felt duly
grateful; for as yet his declaration seemed to her an unreal dream,
and she did not like to think about it, or what seemed to her, a
mortifying mistake.
As they left the road altogether, and struck across fields with the
utmost recklessness about taking down fences, and driving over
trackless meadows, they could hear the distant murmur of a waterfall,
and soon they came in sight of a small river winding its way to the
gorge, into which it speedily disappeared. Then they dismounted from
their _caleches_, and sought a point of view from which they could
best see this lovely waterfall, which rushes down, not in one sheer
descent, but in several leaps, over the brown rocks; so that they
could stand, as it were, part of the way down, looking up to the
topmost fall, and also far down below them, where, at the foot of it,
there lay a pretty green, level point, on which cows were browsing
under some noble trees--as charming a pastoral picture as could be
found.
Flora took out her sketch-book and color-box, and set to work
diligently to make a few rough sketches from the most favorable
points, Jack willingly offering his services in carrying her
appliances from place to place, and watching the progress of the
sketches with an intensity of interest which was slightly embarrassing
to the artist and somewhat amusing to Nellie, who declared, to Jack's
indignation, that she had never known before that he took so much
interest in artistic pursuits. Jack, however, was a most amiable
critic, ready to admire generously all the work of Flora's nimble
fingers, each sketch being, in his opinion, "awfully pretty;--you'd
know it anywhere!" Meantime the rest of the party strolled about,
finding out new points of view, and exploring pretty nooks, till it
was time to set out the simple luncheon of sandwiches, cold fowl,
coffee, and blueberry pie, after the due discussion of which it was
necessary to set out at once on the return trip--in the order in which
they had come.
When they drove up to the hotel they were met by the intelligence that
the Quebec steamer was in sight, and that they must drive down to the
pier at once. The young men's valises were quickly thrown into the
_caleches_, and they all drove to the pier, to find the big white
steamboat just approaching the point. There was a hurried and, truth
to tell, a reluctant leave-taking on the part of the intending
_voyageurs_, who declared that they would be sure to be back in about
a week; and then the steamer gave her parting whistle and they were
off, their waving hats and handkerchiefs being soon lost in the
distance. Hugh had just said to May, in a low tone, at
parting,--keeping her hand for a few seconds closely pressed in his
own, "Don't forget your promise--or me--while I am gone," and May had
replied only by a smile, from which, perhaps, tears were not very far
away. At all events, there was a strange, inexplicable _ache_ in her
heart, as the four girls walked slowly back to the hotel, a trifle
less merrily than was their wont.
It was curious indeed, what a blank there seemed to be, now that three
out of their number were gone, though no one except Mrs. Sandford and
Nellie were willing to admit it in words. As for May, she could not
help feeling that she missed Hugh, in particular, at every turn! His
low-toned voice and slightly Celtic accentuation seemed to be
perpetually in her ear, and every particular charm of the landscape
seemed to recall his always quick appreciation of such beauty. Some
occasion on which she wanted to appeal to him for sympathy or
appreciation was constantly turning up; and she found herself
perpetually laying up a stock of things about which she wanted to talk
to him, when he should return. She had no idea how much he had
gradually become a part of her life, and how important his ever-ready
sympathy had come to be, until the lack of that sympathy made itself
so strongly felt. If she had not been so simply and dreamily romantic,
so free from egoistic self-consciousness, she would never have made
the mistake she had done, and even now there was a constant struggle
between the instincts of her heart and the power of the firmly-rooted
impression. Kate, who had divined the real state of the case, but had
been afraid to enlighten her cousin too suddenly, now ventured on a
little good-humored chaffing; but with great and praiseworthy caution.
Seeing that May sensitively shrank from the subject, she soon
desisted.
Whatever Kate's own sense of loss may have been in the absence of Mr.
Winthrop, she was not the sort of girl to let the absence of the three
young men take away all the zest of the pleasure of Murray Bay. She
constituted herself the leader of the little party, and the four girls
and Mrs. Sandford had what they all voted as a "very quiet, pleasant
time," in which they took things easily and enjoyed themselves just as
the fancy seized them. They strolled about the beach in the sunny
mornings, while Flora sketched the vista of distant hills, and a
gentle inquisitive French Canadian would come up to look respectfully
at the sketch of "Mademoiselle," and to express his admiration of "the
_facilite_" with which she accomplished the task of coloring,
evidently an inscrutable mystery to him, though he declared that he
could draw "in _crayons_." Kate and Flora occasionally tried a dip
into the cold waters of the bay, but their experience was not
sufficiently encouraging to tempt the other two, and Mrs. Sandford
shook her head, and declared that she considered it unsafe for any of
them. But they enjoyed watching the sturdy children who daily rushed
in for a few moments and then came out with skins as red as lobsters,
laughing, and rosy, and ready for any number of races on the beach
afterwards. They went to inspect the neighboring "Fresh Air"
establishment, originated by a benevolent lady of Montreal, and
maintained by private beneficence, where a number of convalescents,
old and young, received without cost, the benefit of the pure bracing
air and lovely scenery, a true and refreshing instance of Christian
charity. They explored over and over again, the road leading past the
long strips of farm and pasture land which ran up the hill that
overhung it, and the little French farmhouses, with the curious clay
ovens which stood near them, but quite detached, and sometimes on the
other side of the road, and which Flora was so delighted to see and
sketch; and the long straggling French village, and the little chapel
on the hill, which was so disappointing on a near acquaintance. They
scraped acquaintance with the simple French folk and talked to the
polite village children whom they met, so respectful in their address,
and whom Flora delighted by including some of them in a sketch from
the bridge. They wandered down the road to the pier, between the rows
of summer cottages, and roamed about the pretty grounds of the "Lorne
House," where some old friends of Kate's were staying, and lounged
away an hour or so, inspecting the little Indian huts and booths at
the pier, and the various wares therein displayed, and the dark
impassive faces of the Indian vendors, and purchased all manner of
little souvenirs, toy canoes, snowshoes, toboggans, birch-bark napkin
rings and other pretty trifles, as presents for the people at home;
while Flora sketched the curiously shaped rock which has so often
stood for its picture. Or they strolled up the hillside among the
fragrant spruce and cedar, and enjoyed the charming views from thence
of Cap-a-l'Aigle and the river and bay, and examined the primitive
little wooden aqueducts that led the water from springs on the hill,
to the houses down below. Everything was as quaint and primitive as
Normandy, Flora declared, except only the manners and dress of the
summer visitors!
And sometimes they went on little canoe parties with those friends of
Kate's at the "Lorne House,"--up the winding Murray River under the
bridge, from which Flora took a pretty sketch, and on for some
distance farther, picking their way among the brown shallows and
stones which narrowed the navigable water of the stream. Or they would
drive up the solitary Quebec road, among its aromatic pine woods, and
past its little clearings, with their patches of tobacco and maize and
little log cabins, and the peculiar exhilarating aroma of the mountain
air;--or by another pretty road to the picturesque cascade of "Les
Trous" beside which they took their luncheon, and spent the best part
of an afternoon. And so the days went quickly by--happily enough, and
on Saturday, May found herself realizing that the travellers would
very soon be back. Half a dozen other expeditions were still reserved
for the last few days, after the party should be reunited, before they
should leave for the West. But these plans, like many other human
projects, were not destined to be realized. For Monday morning brought
May a letter, containing an unexpected summons to return home at once,
as her father and mother were called away by the illness of a
relative, and her presence as eldest daughter was needed at home.
Dearly as May loved her home and ready as she was to comply with and
obey the summons, this hastening of her departure from Murray Bay was
a great disappointment, in more ways than one. There was, however, no
boat before Tuesday night, and as Mrs. Sandford had begun to feel
anxious herself to return home, and would not hear of letting May go
back alone, it was finally decided in a cabinet council, that they
should arrange to take their departure by the Tuesday's boat, and
that, in case the young men had not returned by that time, they could
follow and overtake them somewhere on the way. May's heart had sunk
more than she could have believed, when she contemplated the
possibility that Hugh might return and find her gone! She had not in
the least made up her mind as to what she should say to him, when he
did return, and, even if she herself cared ever so much, she could not
see how she could possibly be ever separated from her home, nor
indeed, could she as yet bear to think of that aspect of the affair.
But she could not help feeling it no small trial to return without
seeing him again; apart from the disappointment that she knew it would
be to him should he return only after her departure. And as Mrs.
Sandford was always reminding them, so many things might happen to
detain the _voyageurs_, for they intended to find their way back
somehow, by land, through the wilds that lay between Murray Bay and
Lake St. John.
That evening she could not settle down with the others on the veranda,
but wandered down alone to the beach and took her seat on one of their
favorite rocks. It had been a day of thunder showers with lovely
bursts of sunshine between, and some of the glorious rainbows so
frequent there; and now, after a golden sunset, breaking through
purple clouds, the bright tints were fading out of the sky and from
the great gray stretch of water, on whose breast some stately ships
were gradually disappearing from view. The scene vividly recalled to
her mind Hugh's parable of human life, and his unexpected application
of it. A sense of the evanescence of all beautiful things and all
human enjoyments had taken hold of her, and the tears welled up in her
soft gray eyes as she said in her heart a mute farewell to the lovely
scene around her, which had so fascinated her, and her mind went
wistfully back over all the fair scenes she had beheld since the day
on which she had set out, full of happy anticipation. How much better
it had all been than even her brightest anticipations! A vesper
sparrow--our Canadian nightingale--was carolling sweetly close at hand,
and its song seemed to bring back to her the sweet refrain of the old
song:--
"Sweet the lev'rock's note, an' lang,--
Wildly liltin' doun the glen;--
But, to me, he sings ae sang
Will ye no come back again?"
The last line seemed to haunt her with an indescribable pathetic
intonation. She rose to go back in order to fight off thoughts that
were too much for her when lo! a familiar step sounded close to her,
and a well-known voice was in her ear, with a low-toned, "Well, May?"
And May, startled and overjoyed, could scarcely exclaim,--"Oh, Hugh! is
it really you?" and then, for all answer to his question, she burst
into tears. Perhaps this was almost answer enough, but it encouraged
Hugh to go on, and to secure a still better and more satisfying one,
before they returned together to join the rest, and to exchange quiet
congratulations and a little teasing with Kate, whose engagement to
Mr. Winthrop was now definitely admitted. Jack Armstrong looked very
wistful and rather envious over the two engaged couples, but the merry
Flora is inscrutable, and whether his warm admiration will ever be
returned is still a matter of conjecture to both Kate and May.
The three _voyageurs_ had many adventures to relate and much to say
about the wild beauty of the upper Saguenay, its _portages_,
waterfalls, tributary streams, and especially about the solitary
beauty of the lonely Lake St. John. Hugh declared that he would not
have missed it on any account, and _that_, as he remarked, _sotto
voce_, to May, was, in the circumstances, saying a good deal. Mr.
Winthrop was to write a description of it for an American periodical,
and Jack Armstrong declared it would give enough to talk about, and
excite other fellows with envy, for the next year, at all events.
And the last day at Murray Bay was, after all, happier than May in her
lonely reverie of the preceding evening had thought possible. They
visited several of their favorite haunts during the morning, and it
was wonderful how much Hugh and May had to say to each other,--said
Kate, mischievously, careless of the retort that "People who lived in
glass houses needn't throw stones." In the afternoon they took a long
drive along the Cap-a-l'Aigle heights, watching another gorgeous
sunset bathe the hills and river in its exquisite dyes. And as these
once more faded into the greyness of twilight, and the stars gleamed
out, and the white sails of a large vessel that had caught the last
glow of day became dimly spectral in the distance, Hugh whispered to
May, as they turned downwards, and away from the beautiful scene they
had been contemplating:
"And now, dearest, what can we desire better, than the hope of the
long voyage together down the great river to the silent sea?"
THE END.
Footnote 1: The Mamelons--rounded bluffs.
End of Project Gutenberg's Down the River to the Sea, by Agnes Maule Machar