COSMETICS AND FASHION

The lobule of the human ear has been presumably developed through the

agency of Sexual Selection, as it is an ornament the absence of which is

at once felt. And there are other ways in which this organ has been

gradually brought into harmony with the laws of beauty. Thus the loss of

the hair (of which rudiments are still occasionally present) made

visible the soft skin and the delicate tint of the ear, which, like that

of the cheeks, may be momentarily heightened by a blush, and thus become

an index of emotional expression. A permanently heightened colour of the

ear, however, caused by exposure to extreme cold or by rough treatment,

is almost as great a blemish as a red nose or pallid lips. If boxers are

anxious to deform their ears, no one has a right to object; but children

have a right to ask of their parents and teachers not to redden their

ears permanently by pulling or boxing them. That a delicate and

important sense-organ like the ear should be so frequently chosen as a

place to inflict punishment, shows the necessity of a general diffusion

of hygienic knowledge. It may not be superfluous to add a caution to

lovers, that the ears should never be taken as an osculatory substitute

for the lips or cheeks, as cases are known in medical practice where the

tympanum, and consequently the hearing, has been destroyed by a vigorous

kiss implanted by a foolish lover on his sweetheart’s ears.

An ear to be beautiful should be about twice as long as broad. It should

be attached to the head almost straight, or slightly inclined backwards,

and should almost touch the head with the back of its upper point. Many

poor girls are deformed for life through the ignorance of their mothers,

who allow them to wear their hair or bonnets in such a way as to make

the ears stand out obliquely. As the ears contain no bones, but consist

entirely of cartilages and skin, they can be, more readily even than the

nose, moulded into a fine shape at an early age. As Drs. Brinton and

Napheys remark, “Even when the ear is in part or altogether absent, the

case is not desperate. An ‘artificial ear’ can be made of vulcanised

rubber, or other material, tinted the colour of the flesh, and attached

to the side of the head with such deftness that its character will

escape every ordinary eye.” There is therefore no excuse for having

badly-shaped or wrongly-inclined ears in these days of cosmetic surgery.

In the most beautiful ears the lobe is free, and not attached to the

head in its lower part. Heavy earrings, which have a tendency to unduly

enlarge the lobules, are now tabooed by Fashion; but very small jewels

in the ear may be looked on, like small finger-rings, necklaces, and

bracelets, as unobjectionable from an æsthetic point of view, though

real beauty unadorned is adorned the most.

Formerly Fashion maltreated the poor ears quite as badly as it still

does the waist and the feet. Lubbock remarks that the East Islanders

enlarge their ears till they come down to the shoulders; and Darwin,

after referring to liberties taken with the nose, says that “the ears

are everywhere pierced and similarly ornamented, and with the Botocudos

and Lenguas of South America the hole is gradually so much enlarged that

the lower edge touches the shoulder.”

Among the Greeks, as Becker remarks, "it was considered a dishonour, or

a token of foreign manners, for men to have their ears bored.... Women

and girls, however, not only used earrings, ἐνώτια, ἐλλόβια, ἑλικτῆρες

which are seen perpetually in vases, but also wore numerous articles of

jewellery about the neck, the arms, and on the leg above the ankle."

The ancients, too, had heard of the malformed ears of primitive peoples.

“It is possible,” says Tylor, “that there may be some truth in the

favourite wonder-tale of the old geographers, about the tribes whose

great ears reached down to their shoulders, though the story had to be

stretched a good deal when it was declared they lay down on one ear and

covered themselves with the other for a blanket.”

Such blanket-ears would be the æsthetic equivalent of modern bustles,

crinolettes, and wasp-waists.

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