TESTS OF BEAUTY

According to Schopenhauer, the great value which all attach to small

feet “depends on the fact that small feet are an essentially human

characteristic, since in no animal are the tarsus and metatarsus

together so small as in man, which peculiarity is connected with his

erect attitude: he is a plantigrade.” But it is difficult to see any

force in this reasoning, since not one person in a hundred thousand

knows what the bones called tarsus and metatarsus are, nor cares whether

they are larger in man or in animals; while, as regards the upright

position, large feet would appear more suitable for maintaining it than

small ones.

If smallness were the test of beauty in man, why should we not feel

ashamed to have larger heads than animals, or envy the elephant, who,

for his size, has the smallest foot of all animals?

Those who believe that human beauty consists in the degree of remoteness

from animal types, will derive satisfaction from the fact that apes have

feet that are larger than ours. Topinard gives these figures showing the

relative sizes: man, 16·96; gorilla, 20·69; chimpanzee, 21·00; orang,

25. But why should man feel a special pride in the fact that his feet

are somewhat smaller than those of his nearest relatives, whom, until

recently, he did not even acknowledge as such?

It is, moreover, unscientific to compare man’s foot with the ape’s too

closely, because they have different functions—being used by man for

walking, by the ape for climbing—and therefore require different

characteristics. It is only in those organs that have a like function—as

the jaws, teeth, nose, eyes, and forehead—that a direct comparison is

permissible, and a progress noted in our favour.

Again, as M. Topinard tells us, “The hand and the foot of man, although

shorter than those of the anthropoid ape, do not vary among races

according to their order of superiority, as we should have supposed. _A

long hand or foot is not a characteristic of inferiority._”

The same is true among individuals of the same race. Mme. de Staël was

one of the most intelligent women the world has ever seen, yet her feet

were very large; and conversely, some of our silliest girls have the

smallest feet.

Since, then, there is no obvious connection between small feet and

superior culture, it follows that the beauty of a foot is not to be

determined by so simple a matter as its length. There are other

peculiarities, of greater importance, in which the laws of Beauty

manifest themselves. First, in the arched instep, which is not only

attractive because it introduces the beauty-curve in place of the

straight, flat line of the sole, but which is of the utmost importance

in increasing the foot’s capacity for carrying its burden, just as

architects build arches under bridges, etc., for the sake of the greater

strength and more equable distribution of pressure thus obtained.

Secondly, in the symmetrical correspondence of the toes and contours of

one foot with those of its partner; in the gradation of the regularly

shortened toes, from the first to the fifth; in the delicate tints of

the skin which, moreover, is smooth and not (as in apes) covered with

straggling hairs and deep furrows, which would have concealed the

delicate veins that variegate the surface, and give it the colour of

life.

Professor Carl Vogt, in his _Lectures on Man_, vividly illustrates the

principles on which our judgment regarding beauty in feet is based, by

comparing a negro’s foot with that of civilised man: “The foot of the

negro, says Burmeister, produces a disagreeable impression. Everything

in it is ugly; the flatness, the projecting heel, the thick, fatty

cushion in the inner cavity, the spreading toes.... The character of the

human foot lies mainly in its arched structure, in the predominance of

the metatarsus, the shortening and equal direction of the toes, among

which the great toe is remarkably long, but not, like the thumb,

opposable.... The toes in standing leave no mark, but do so in

progression. The whole middle part of the foot does not touch the

ground. Persons with flat feet, in whom the middle of the sole touches

ground, are bad pedestrians, and are rejected as recruits.... The negro

is a decided flat foot ... the fat cushion on the sole not only fills up

the whole cavity, but projects beyond the surface.”

Inasmuch as it is the custom among all civilised peoples to cover the

foot entirely, many of its aspects of beauty are rendered invisible

permanently, so that it is perhaps not to be wondered at that in their

absence Fashion should have so eagerly fixed on the two visible

features—size and arched instep—and endeavoured to exaggerate them by

Procrustean dimensions and stilt-like high heels. Yet in this matter

even modern Parisians represent a progress over the mediæval Venetian

ladies, who, according to Marinello, at one time wore soles and heels

over a foot in height, so that on going out they had to be accompanied

by several servants to prevent them from falling. _Mais que voulez

vous?_ Fashion is fashion, and women are women.

By the ancient Greeks the feet were frequently exposed to view; hence,

says Winckelmann, “in descriptions of beautiful persons, as Polyxena and

Aspasia, even their beautiful feet are mentioned.” Possibly in some

future age, when Health and Beauty will be more worshipped than vulgar

Fashion fetishes, a clever Yankee will invent an elastic, tough, and

leathery, but transparent substance that will protect the foot while

fitting it like a glove and showing its outlines. This would put an end

to the mutilations resorted to from vanity, guided by bad taste, and

would add one more feature to Personal Beauty. And the foot, as

Burmeister insists, has one advantage over every other part of the body.

Beauty in all these other features depends on health and a certain

muscular roundness. But the foot’s beauty is independent of such

variations, as it lies mainly in its permanent bony contours and in its

fat cushion, which alone of all adipose layers resists the ravages of

disease and old age. Hence a beautiful foot is a thing of beauty and a

joy for ever, long after all other youthful charms have faded and fled.

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