It was indeed a laughable sight to watch the army, as, in the most
inconceivable disorder, it made its way out of the morass. Horse, foot,
baggage camels, asses, from all sides and corners, pushed their way so
slowly out, that the Pascha, on reaching the opener ground, saw himself
forced to halt at least two hours, to let men and cattle once again
assemble, and get into some sort of order.
Here, again, all was plain; the durra fields extended far and wide,
though not in the luxuriant vegetation of the land of the Haddenda. On
the open plain were visible small water-courses and much grass, but
bushes and trees only in twos or threes, and right and left in the
distance, from a half to one hour’s journey off, was to be seen the
Chaaba. We passed the ruins of a village, which, as we were told, had
been burnt and plundered by the Schaigie Melek Kamball, brother to Wood
Mahmud, when he some two years before of his own accord, undertook with
only 300 of his men an incursion into these lands, and murdered and
plundered all he fell in with. That such an enterprise could be
successfully carried out, can only be ascribed to surprise, and the
rapid movements of the Schaigies, who never seem to halt, know the
country well, and have a great advantage in their fire-arms. Even now,
though dead, Kamball still lives in the people’s mouths; they have a
great number of songs about him, in which he is described, on account of
his cruelty and savage deeds, constantly wandering round, without grave,
rest, or peace, as the punishment of his crimes. He was shot in the
back, most likely by the soldiers of Achmed Pascha, in a fight between
them and the Schaigies of Melek Hammet. The latter is well known by all
as an exceedingly brave and daring man, and is much beloved by the
Schaigies; he is of an old ruler’s family, from Old-Dongola, where his
father was murdered by the Mamelukes he had hospitably received. Hammet
had, during our residence in Chartum, fled from thence with 400 of his
most trusty men, discontented and enraged, like most of the Schaigies,
at the present government, who held these freebooters too much in check.
Had he succeeded in reaching the Makada frontier, he would have been
safe, for he would have been received with open arms by that people, and
especially would old Melek Nimr have welcomed such a fugitive. Ere long
assuredly most of the Schaigies would have drawn round such a chief, and
also from Dongola a great number of people would have followed him;
these numbers possessing fire-arms, knowing so well how to use them and
carry on war, added to Melek Nimr’s own tribe of the Djalin, and also
the probable junction with them of all the races of the southern part of
the island, particularly that of the far extended race of Hammesh, and
finally that of the tribes dwelling to the east of the Nile in Kataref,
Kalabatt, Atisch, &c., would have formed an hostile force the Turks
never could have overcome. The trade with Habesch would then have been
completely lost to Bellad-Sudan (an inestimable loss), constant
plundering expeditions into the lands ruled by the Pascha were to be
looked for, and had he marched against the enemy, they would have had a
secure retreat in the high mountains of Makada, where they would have
found water and food in abundance.
The Pascha well aware of all this, and fearing a revolt of all the
tribes of Bellad-Sudan as the consequence of Hammet’s flight (in which
Hammet was likely to pass by Halfaia, between Bach’r asrek and the
Atbara), had, the moment he got news of it in Berber, assembled the most
trusty of the leaders of the Schaigies, and ordered them to pursue
Hammet. These, perhaps envious of the latter’s future power, perhaps
fearing that their own followers would soon fly also, or perhaps from
anxiety to gain the great reward they expected, and which had been
promised them, did all in their power to overtake the fugitive. The
Pascha himself rode in four days from Berber to Abu Harrass, a distance
that generally takes a courier six or seven days; put 500 soldiers on
dromedaries; and having overtaken Hammet, who was employed feasting and
drinking merissa with his followers, overpowered him and his small
force. On this a relation of Hammet broke through the infantry, and
rushed, with cocked pistol, on the Pascha, who only saved himself by the
speed of his horse; and it is said, that Kamball, who had all along held
faithfully to the Pascha, was then shot by the infantry, who were
enraged at and jealous of the Schaigies. His death was generally
lamented, as he was a distinguished soldier, an honest man, and general
favourite, and from his generosity to the poor, ever in debt. The Pascha
himself set high value on him, most likely from finding in him a
particularly useful subject, who, with the smallest force, would calmly
go to face each and any danger, however great. He had, like another
Theseus, undertaken and succeeded in the boldest enterprises; if not in
the camp, men knew some desperate expedition was out, and often he was
not seen again for eight or ten days, and ever and again it was reported
he was dead; but he ere long re-appeared, his task, as usual, having
been well and perfectly performed; and it is much to be questioned if he
was not at last slain out of private hate and envy of his great fame.
After his death, the Pascha himself took charge of his infant son, had
him educated, and allows him 500 piastres a month. He daily visits his
benefactor, who is most friendly and amiable to him, as to all children.
The Pascha granted a pardon to Melek Hammet and his followers, but still
it is generally believed, that in spite of this, the former will, on the
first favourable opportunity, in some way or other lose his life, as the
Turk never forgets to avenge an injury. He has been ever since treated
by the Pascha with reserve and slight; is, indeed, now with the army,
but ever in the camp, as if he were under surveillance, and never has
any expedition been confided to him, either to collect tribute from the
neighbouring country, or make small plundering excursions, in which one-
half of the booty goes to the spoilers. The gloomy, savage countenance
of Hammet, shows that he feels all this, and meditates vengeance.
At last, about mid-day, we again struck the great Gohr in the middle of
durra-fields. A halt was made, and the Pascha rode about for an hour in
all directions, till he at last hit on the worst possible spot for his
camp, and one distant from all water. While this fool’s excursion was
going on, we and our beasts were exposed to the most fearful heat, but
when his Excellency at last pitched on his camping-place, near the
village of Dabaab, and we were done to a turn, we had the good luck to
get possession of one side of a great tree, where our tent was shaded
from the burning sun, and we could cool down a little. Though tired and
exhausted, almost to falling, the great heat prevented our either
sleeping or eating; our only comforter and consoler was the water-cup.
As we looked forward to being again attacked by fever, it was good news
to us that the Pascha intended remaining some days here; and the seriba,
which can be put up in some two hours, was formed round the camp. The
Gohr, here pretty broad, had plenty of water in some parts of it, in
pits some five or six feet deep: but, unfortunately, this was very bad
and stinking, and, after standing a day in the water-skin, unfit to
drink. The open plains all round were durra-fields, but the Chaaba was
not far off. In the evenings there was constant lightning without
thunder, but no rain at night.
Letters appearing (concerning his return journey) from Duke Paul William
of Wurtemberg, and being written in German, we had to act as
interpreters. He mentioned, with many thanks, the reception the Pascha
gave him in Bellad-Sudan, the attentions that had been shown to him
everywhere, and the care taken to provide him with food. In short, all
was compliments, and the Pascha was much delighted at hearing these
translated to him. The earlier intentions of the Prince had been to
advance, by Faszogl, farther into the country than ever European had
done, but he had only proceeded some days’ journey into the parts beyond
that place. Jacob Effendi, whom the Pascha had given him as an escort,
and who had gone with him from Abu Hammet up and back, now came to the
camp in high hopes, as he had received from the Prince a special
recommendatory letter to the Pascha, instead of the usual rewards given
here, and expected confidently, what the giver had promised him, either
promotion, or at least a good sum of money. But neither followed, and
Jacob ran all day, in the glowing sun’s heat, through the camp, with the
German letter of recommendation in his pocket, as, after I had
translated it to the Pascha, he coolly gave it back to the bearer. We
received from the Pascha the office of thanking the Prince for his
attention, and wishing him all possible happiness.
The expected fever from the dreadful heat and bad water has arrived, and
the glowing noon-day’s sun seems, even through the tent, to be bent on
converting our skulls to ashes. Not until ten o’clock at night did
perspiration appear, and at the same time there burst out a fearful
storm of rain, and tent, bed-covering, cloak, were all wet through,
making us fear the worst consequences. But, thank God! we slept soundly
in spite of rain, thunder, and lightning, and in the morning felt pretty
well, so much so, that we were able to make a short hunting excursion.
The soaked ground was certainly no pleasant promenade; we were ever
slipping, and our light Turkish shoes sticking in the mud, so that our
white stockings, ere long, were the colour of the natives’ legs. When we
got a short distance from the durra-fields, we were both astonished and
surprised to find ourselves in a country exactly similar to the
Westphalian Embscher Bruch, and long did we brothers gaze on it, calling
up past days in our fatherland; the country, too, was enlivened by
singing-birds, particularly the black-heads, with their full, melodious
voices—sounds of pleasure one seldom hears in Africa, where never is
there such music of the woods as with us. We pushed on into the bush,
which grew thicker, and where the grass rose high as our heads, hiding
the deep rain-courses. On all sides crawled venomous reptiles; already
had we seen two pretty large snakes and many smaller sunning themselves
on dry spots under the bushes, and therefore it was only with great
caution, and well examining where we placed our feet, that we moved on.
Besides, we were alone, and had still fresh in our memories the sight of
the two lions of the day before yesterday. In such high grass, lions or
tigers could easily lie hid, or fierce cats might crouch among the
branches, and every rustling seemed to us to announce the outburst of
some such beast of prey; then, ere long we came on a yet fresh, half-
devoured gazelle, from its feast on which some wild beast had been
disturbed. Footsteps of elephants, quite recent, we saw in great
numbers; seemingly they had visited the durra-field at night. Among the
various birds, we particularly remarked many small pigeons, about as
large as a stare, with tails three-quarters of a foot long, of a brown-
red colour, as was also the plumage under their wings. At last we came
on a large gazelle, and having luckily shot him, made our way back, and
ere long were feasting on a piece of him, which tasted to us excellent,
and not unlike our roe venison; much we lamented no juice of the grape
was to be had, to rejoice our longing and languishing palates. Jackals
and hyenas are here in plenty; the young of both were brought us, but we
had no wish to be now troubled with them. Chameleons, too, were to be
found hanging and basking in large numbers on the trees round.
On taking a ride, at mid-day, to the village of Dabàab, some half-hour’s
journey off, to visit the sick Kadi Ali, we found everywhere about
hollows, or sunken places, which formed large marshes, and explained
why, during and after the rainy season, the country round about is so
unhealthy; for the vegetable and animal matter, when decaying, and the
accompanying exhalations, must produce an atmosphere remarkably well
adapted to bring on fever. In Dabàab we were closely inspected and
examined by all, as, seemingly, before us no white-skin had ever been
seen in the village. This is of great extent, and seems to have many
inhabitants; we also saw many cattle, and a certain prosperity and
wealth seemed to peep out from all about us. But they possess, as we
afterwards learned, only very few camels, and their horses, bought in
Abyssinia for ten to fifteen top[29], are small and not enduring. Asses,
cattle, sheep, and goats they have in abundance. Besides the one great
thorn enclosure, there were some smaller ones round the dwellings of the
different families. The houses, or tokuls, were of tolerable size, and
almost on every one had storks built their nests; here this bird is
sacred, and it would be one of the greatest crimes an Arab could commit,
were he to hunt away or injure these birds. The wealthier adorn the tops
of their tokuls with ostrich-feathers and eggs, or some such ornament,
and to each is attached another square hut (recuba) of straw or dried
wood, serving as kitchen, abode, and sleeping-place for family and
servants. The master of the house, and his wife, however, have their
sleeping-place in the tokul, where also is kept everything that might
perchance be ruined by rain; this sleeping place is some three feet
high, and of a length and breadth that six men might find room in it; it
is also surrounded by pales, on which are gratings woven of thin wood,
and on these are fastened straw mats; the whole structure, like those we
saw at el Soffre, is hung round with thick woollen cloths. A little
light gets in through the very small door of the hut, and were it not
for this, all would be darkness inside. Nothing more than the usual
household utensils, a few angarebs and mats, did we see; the utensils
consisted of a murhaka (mill), a burma (earthen pot), a gadda (wooden
dish), and some water-skins.
The Kadi, a man of at least eighty years old, and now ill with fever,
sought by every means to impress on us his high dignity and great
knowledge. He said of himself that he was most learned (ahlem), did and
ought to know every thing, as he had been eight years in Mecca and two
in Medina; he also was proud of his knowledge that we Franks wrote from
the left to right. He represented himself to my brother as a physician,
who knew how to cure all diseases, but unfortunately had no medicines by
him. All Kadis are penmen (faki, plur. fokra), and at once civil and
religious judges: but, unluckily, it is the usual plan with them to
decide the same point of law, one day one way, the next another; in fact
as it suits themselves, or as higher officials order them. We were
entertained with honey-water, and many sweeter words, as to our country,
our customs, and fine things, the latter of which they understand, even
here, to ask for with the greatest greediness and importunity. Ere long
the small hut we were in was crammed with more than thirty men, the
exhalations and heat of whose bodies caused such a stench and
suffocating feeling, that remaining in it became most disagreeable. All
who entered kissed most respectfully the Kadi’s hand, and then came up
to us and held out their hand with the greeting “Mirhaba!” All had some
complaint, and believed, that through the old Kadi’s influence they must
obtain medicine. Among these followers the old man had six sons, many
grandsons, and almost all the rest were brothers, nephews, or relatives.
To escape from the importunities of this large family, we had nothing
else for it than to return to camp. After some days, the Kadi’s son came
to us, and Joseph, out of pity, gave him medicine, but made him aware
that hereafter he would give him nothing gratis; no other means exist of
holding one’s own with these greedy Arabs. After some days he repeated
his visit, and requested more medicine, proudly offering in exchange a
hen which at most was worth a piastre.
The tribe of the Hallenga are in general a fine race; they have open
countenances, in which is not visible that savageness and falseness so
marked in those of the Haddenda, although, in truth, there is little to
choose between them. Their hair they wear like the other Arabs. The
women, compared with the men, are much whiter, very well grown, and with
good features while yet young; but with them, as the other Arab tribes,
the ugliness of old age shows itself only too soon.
We did not see their chief Sheik, Auet, he having, on the approach of
the Turks, fled to Makada, and in so doing has certainly acted more
wisely than Mohammed Din, else he too might have had to stroll to
Chartum as an hostage. As descendant of the most ancient family of
Sheiks of the Hallenga, this Auet is held in high respect by his people,
and praised by all as brave and generous. At his flight he had said, “I
have ever been free, and will never be a servant of the Turks, for I am
of higher race than they.” Much stress is here set on such a descent,
and for this reason our Mohammed Ehle, formerly a Faki, and first made
Sheik by Churschid Pascha, in spite of his being a good and brave man,
is held in small esteem by these people, who look with contempt on a
Sheik who had been appointed by their oppressors, and as such he is
called Sheik betal Diwan; to this is added that he is poor in cattle or
other property, and he could hardly have, in their eyes, a greater fault
than this.
It seems that, being now in the land of the Hallenga, we are considered
in a more friendly country; for the guards round the camp are much
weaker than in Arronga, and are only posted of an evening, and then
round the large fires constantly kept up to scare away the wild beasts.
In other ways we are not particularly well off. Saving hares and
gazelles, the first costing one, and the second, if any size, three or
four piastres, there is no good food to be got. A most fearful evil is
the bad, stinking water, and worse than all the rest, the dreadful heat.
Our tent is of thick, double canvas, and yet the sunbeams pierce so
glowingly through it, that we are forced to lay coverlets and such like
things over the side the sun strikes on, to try and thus get some
relief. Tents that have been painted over with some colouring are much
cooler, from having their pores thus filled, than those of white linen
or canvas. We have been more than once favoured, during the night, by
storms, with heavy rain, which soaked us well; nor were we altogether
free from alarm at the constant lightning and thunder, as our tent was
pitched under the highest tree hereabout, and at a distance from the
others.
The severest storm we experienced in Africa was in Chartum, on the 31st
August, 1839, during which many houses were destroyed by the wind and
rain, and eleven vessels foundered in the White Nile. The masses of
water poured down from heaven were such, that for more than a week
afterwards the sun had not dried up the puddles in the narrow streets.
We were at the time on our return from the bath we had been taking in
the Nile, and counted flashes of lightning in eleven different points of
the horizon round us; there was, too, such a brilliant clearness spread
about on all sides, that, although it was otherwise very dark, one could
see to read quite plainly. In four points the lightning was so violent,
that it no longer seemed zigzag flashes, but like streaked columns of
fire, ascending from earth to sky,—a splendidly beautiful sight! In our
house every room was full of water; in the court we had to wade through
streams up to our knees, in passing through it to examine our store-
house; and this set in order, we had nothing for it, to keep off the ill
effects, but to sit on our table and drink hot punch. The next house to
us was a powder magazine, and we still look on it as good fortune we
were not blown into the air by the explosion of the powder stored there.
The next day we paid a visit to Theodore Kotschy, a collector of objects
of natural history from Austrian Silesia, who was encamped in the open
land near Omdurman, on the left bank of the Bach’r abiat. His tent,
fastened with twenty strong ropes, was totally torn away and blown high
into the air, and he and his people seemed yet far from having got over
the terrors of a night they described as a most fearful one.
It now turns out most fortunate for us that we have brought with us, on
our camels, our light bedsteads or angarebs, else must we have lain on
the earth, like the soldiers, who have much want and many sufferings
besides to undergo, as money becomes daily scarcer in the camp. All
kinds of things are carried round by the criers (dellal) for sale, as
cooking utensils, clothing, pipes, &c. We, too, seem likely ere long to
have nothing left us; our Hussein the Gaddam taib (or good servant, as
he called himself on being hired, but who, in reality, is a cunning
discontented stupid fellow), a Djaln, had suddenly deserted us, and in
company with our best camel, taken his road to return to his own land.
He had arrived at Kassela, but was met by Ibrahim Kaschef of Kataref,
who asked him for his papers, and, as he could produce none, was brought
back to the camp as a deserter. He had tried to defend himself by a
trumped-up story, that he had been sent by us to Beni-Amer, to see why
our huntsman Abdallah remained so long there. The Arab servants are in
general a real pest to every master, as among many hundreds of them you
will not find ten honest or faithful.
Ibrahim Kaschef, a Circassian, foster brother of Soliman Kaschef of
Carreri, made his entrance with a great following of soldiers and some
considerable Sheiks of Kataref, and fortunately for us, brought with him
a large quantity of Abyssinian coffee. Ibrahim is, as most Circassians,
a handsome man, but, unfortunately, has had his nose somewhat damaged.
He complains much of the unhealthy climate of Kataref, the water,
constant fevers there, and that the smallest cut, in spite of the utmost
care, soon becomes a great ulcer; and that the ferendit (thread-worm)
has twice attacked him, and showed us a very distinct scar it had left.
All his Turkish soldiers had suffered from illness. In the neighbourhood
of Kataref and Kalabatt are some powerful Arab races, the most important
of which in power and greatness, second to neither the Beni-Amer nor
Haddenda, is the Kabyle (tribe) Dabaina, under their present Sheik, Issa
Wood Said. The Tokruri, in former days so important in Kalabatt, have
been much weakened by wars with other Arab tribes, and with Churschid
Pascha. The natives of Kalabatt and Kataref seem to be much darker than
those of Taka. Their dress is the usual one worn, the well-known Ferda;
the hair is frizzed and fastened in knots on the crown, as with the
inhabitants of Gesira.
We gained a prize in a civet-cat, called by the Arabs kedis-sabat or
sebat, a handsome animal, but unfortunately of an age not likely to
admit of its being tamed. It is three feet in length, including its long
pretty thick tail; its feet are short, with small claws it never uses;
head long, eyes wild, ears small and thin, skin grey, with the most
beauteous black spots; tail with black and grey rings alternately. Below
the tail are placed, on both sides, the glands that contain the singular
musk-smelling substance, and these glands become, when it is excited, of
a dark brown colour. The natives here, as elsewhere, value it highly,
shut it up in a wicker-basket (kafass), and carefully collect its
strong-smelling secretions, which are made use of by the women for
powdering the upper parts of their body, their necks &c., and called by
them musk. Its chief food is flesh, but it is very fond of milk.