LETTER III.

A lovely morning.--Antiquated mansion.--Its lady.--Ancestral

effigies.--Collection of animals.--Serene evening.--Owls.--Expected

dreams.

Falmouth, March 8, 1787.

What a lovely morning! how glassy the sea, how busy the fishing-boats,

and how fast asleep the wind in its old quarter! Towards evening,

however, it freshened, and I took a toss in a boat with Mr. Trefusis,

whose territories extend half round the bay. His green hanging downs

spotted with sheep, and intersected by rocky gullies, shaded by tall

straight oaks and ashes, form a romantic prospect, very much in the

style of Mount Edgcumbe.

We drank tea at the capital of these dominions, an antiquated mansion,

which is placed in a hollow on the summit of a lofty hill, and contains

many ruinous halls and never-ending passages: they cannot, however, be

said to lead to nothing, like those celebrated by Gray in his Long

Story, for Mrs. Trefusis terminated the perspective. She is a native of

Lausanne, and was quite happy to see her countryman Verdeil.

We should have very much enjoyed her conversation, but the moment tea

was over, the squire could not resist leading us round his improvements

in kennel, stable, and oxstall: though it was pitch-dark, and we were

obliged to be escorted by grooms and groomlings with candles and

lanterns; a very necessary precaution, as the winds blew not more

violently without the house than within.

In the course of our peregrination through halls, pantries, and

antechambers, we passed a staircase with heavy walnut-railing, lined

from top to bottom with effigies of ancestors that looked quite

formidable by the horny glow of our lanterns; which illumination, dull

as it was, occasioned much alarm amongst a collection of animals, both

furred and feathered, the delight of Mr. Trefusis’s existence.

Every corner of his house contains some strange and stinking inhabitant;

one can hardly move without stumbling over a basket of puppies, or

rolling along a mealy tub, with ferrets in the bottom of it; rap went my

head against a wire cage, and behold a squirrel twirled out of its sleep

in sad confusion: a little further on, I was very near being the

destruction of some new-born dormice--their feeble squeak haunts my ears

at this moment!

Beyond this nursery, a door opened and admitted us into a large saloon,

in the days of Mr. Trefusis’s father very splendidly decorated, but at

present exhibiting nothing, save damp plastered walls, mouldering

floors, and cracked windows. A well-known perfume issuing from this

apartment, proclaimed the neighbourhood of those fragrant animals, which

you perfectly recollect were the joy of my infancy, and presently three

or four couple of spanking yellow rabbits made their appearance. A

racoon poked his head out of a coop, whilst an owl lifted up the gloom

of his countenance, and gave us his malediction.

My nose having lost all relish for _rabbitish_ odours, took refuge in my

handkerchief; there did I keep it snug till it pleased our conductors to

light us through two or three closets, all of a flutter with Virginia

nightingales, goldfinches, and canary-birds, into the stable. Several

game-cocks fell a crowing with most triumphant shrillness upon our

approach; and a monkey--the image of poor Brandoin--expanded his jaws in

so woful a manner, that I grew melancholy, and paid the hunters not half

the attention they merited.

At length we got into the open air again, made our bows and departed.

The evening was become serene and pleasant, the moon beamed brilliantly

on the sea; but the owls, who are never to be pleased, hooted most

ruefully.

Good night: I expect to dream of _closed-up doors_,[12] and haunted

passages; rats, puppies, racoons, game-cocks, rabbits, and dormice.

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