LETTER I.

Detained at Falmouth.--Navigation at a stop.--An evening ramble.

Falmouth, March 6, 1787.

The glass is sinking; the west wind gently breathing upon the water, the

smoke softly descending into the room, and sailors yawning dismally at

the door of every ale-house.

Navigation seems at a full stop. The captains lounging about with their

hands in their pockets, and passengers idling at billiards. Dr. V----

has scraped acquaintance with a quaker, and went last night to one of

their assemblies, where he kept jingling his fine Genevan watch-chains

to their sober and silent dismay.

In the intervals of the mild showers with which we are blessed, I ramble

about some fields already springing with fresh herbage, which slope

down to the harbour: the immediate environs of Falmouth are not

unpleasant upon better acquaintance. Just out of the town, in a

sheltered recess of the bay, lies a grove of tall elms, forming several

avenues carpeted with turf. In the central point rises a stone pyramid

about thirty feet high, well designed and constructed, but quite plain

without any inscription; between the stems of the trees one discovers a

low white house, built in and out in a very capricious manner, with

oriel windows and porches, shaded by bushes of prosperous bay. Several

rose-coloured cabbages, with leaves as crisped and curled as those of

the acanthus, decorate a little grass-plat, neatly swept, before the

door. Over the roof of this snug habitation I spied the skeleton of a

gothic mansion, so completely robed with thick ivy, as to appear like

one of those castles of clipped box I have often seen in a Dutch garden.

Yesterday evening, the winds being still, and the sun gleaming warm for

a moment or two, I visited this spot to examine the ruin, hear birds

chirp, and scent wall-flowers.

Two young girls, beautifully shaped, and dressed with a sort of romantic

provincial elegance, were walking up and down the grove by the pyramid.

There was something so love-lorn in their gestures, that I have no doubt

they were sighing out their souls to each other. As a decided amateur of

this sort of _confidential promenade_, I would have given my ears to

have heard their _confessions_.

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