Leave the gloomy precincts of Radicofani and enter the Papal
territory.--Country near Aquapendente.--Shores of the Lake of
Bolsena.--Forest of Oaks.--Ascend Monte Fiascone.--Inhabited
Caverns.--Viterbo.--Anticipations of Rome.
Radicofani, October 28th, 1780.
I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at
Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a tree, not
an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who would have
more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of mankind. I
was very glad to leave their black hills and stony wilderness behind,
and, entering the Papal territory, to see some shrubs and cornfields at
a distance.
Near Aquapendente, which is situated on a ledge of cliffs mantled with
chesnut copses and tufted ilex, the country grew varied and picturesque.
St. Lorenzo, the next post, built upon a hill, overlooks the lake of
Bolsena, whose woody shores conceal many ruined buildings. We passed
some of them in a retired vale, with arches from rock to rock, and
grottos beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise craggy pinnacles
crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as Polemberg and
Bamboche introduce in their paintings.
Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint
rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself upon
the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte
Fiascone. It was late before we ascended it. The whole country seems
full of inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine with
fires. We saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a
subterraneous people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we
drew near Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less frequent;
and when we entered the town, all was total darkness.
To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, and
tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the imperial
city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me up the stairs
of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that I may see him set from
Monte Cavallo.