Inveterate Idlers.--The planet Orloff and his satellites.--A
Storm--Scared women.--A dreary Forest.--Village of
Wiesbaden.--Manheim.--Ulm.--The Danube--unlimited plains on its
margin.--Augsburg.--Sketch of the Town.--Pomposities of the Town
House.
Ems, July 14.
I have just made a discovery, that this place is as full of idlers and
water-drinkers as their Highnesses of Orange and Hesse Darmstadt can
desire; for to them accrue all the profits of its salubrious fountains.
I protest, I knew nothing of all this yesterday, so entirely was I taken
up with the rocks and meadows; and conceived no chance of meeting either
card or billiard players in their solitudes. Both however abound at Ems,
unconscious of the bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally
insensible to its charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring
barren crags and precipices, where even the Lord would lose his way, as
a clumsy lubber decorated with stars and orders very ingeniously
observed to me; nor could they form the least conception of any pleasure
there was in climbing like a goat amongst the cliffs, and then diving
into woods and recesses where the sun had never penetrated; where there
were neither card-tables prepared nor sideboards garnished; no _jambon
de Mayence_ in waiting; no supply of pipes, nor any of the commonest
delights, to be met with in the commonest taverns.
To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but immediately
left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated dames and
weather-beaten officers who were gathering around him. Scarcely had I
turned my back upon this polite assembly, when _Monsieur
l’Administrateur des bains_, a fine pompous fellow, who had been _maitre
d’hôtel_ in a great German family, came forward purposely to acquaint
me, I suppose, that their baths had the honour of possessing Prince
Orloff, “_avec sa crande maidresse, son shamperlan, et guelgues tames
donneur_:” moreover, that his Highness came hither to refresh himself
after his laborious employments at the Court of St. Petersburgh, and
expected (_grace aux eaux_!) to return to the domains his august
sovereign had lately bestowed upon him, perfectly regenerated.
Wishing Monsieur d’Orloff all possible success, I should have left the
company at a greater distance, had not a violent shower stopped my
career, and obliged me to return to my apartment. The rain growing
heavier, intercepted the prospect of the mountains, and spread such a
gloom over the vale as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which a close
foggy atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night the clouds
assumed a more formidable aspect; thunder rolled along the distant
cliffs, and torrents began to run down the steeps. At intervals a blue
flash of lightning discovered the agitated surface of the stream, and
two or three scared women rushing through the storm, and calling all the
saints in Paradise to their assistance.
Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued so
brilliantly on the folly of ascending mountains, bounced into the room,
and regaled my ears with a woeful narration of murders which had
happened the other day on the precise road I was to follow the next
morning.
“Sir,” said he, “your route is, to be sure, very perilous: on the left
you have a chasm, down which, should your horses take the smallest
alarm, you are infallibly precipitated; to the right hangs an impervious
wood, and there, sir, I can assure you, are wolves enough to devour a
regiment; a little farther on, you cross a desolate tract of forest
land, the roads so deep and broken, that if you go ten paces in as many
minutes you may think yourself fortunate. There lurk the most savage
banditti in Europe, lately irritated by the Prince of Orange’s
proscription; and so desperate, that if they make an attack, you can
expect no mercy. Should you venture through this hazardous district
to-morrow, you will, in all probability, meet a company of people who
have just left the town to search for the mangled bodies of their
relations; but, for Heaven’s sake, sir, if you value your life, do not
suffer an idle curiosity to lead you over such dangerous regions,
however picturesque their appearance.”
It was almost nine o’clock before my kind adviser ceased inspiring me
with terrors; then, finding myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not
under the most agreeable impressions.
Early in the morning we set forward; and proceeding along the edge of
the precipices I had been forewarned of, journeyed through the forest
which had so recently been the scene of murders and depredations. At
length, after winding several hours amongst its dreary avenues, we
emerged into open daylight. A few minutes more brought us safe to the
village of Wiesbaden, where we slept in peace and tranquillity.
July 16.--Our apprehensions being entirely dispersed, we rose much
refreshed; and passing through Mayence, Oppenheim, and Worms, travelled
gaily over the plain in which Manheim is situated. The sun set before we
arrived there.
Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with music and
fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups appeared
conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying the serenity of
the evening. Almost every window bloomed with carnations; and we could
hardly cross a street without hearing the sound of music. A scene of
such happiness and refinement formed a most agreeable contrast to the
dismalities we had left behind. All around was security and contentment
in their most engaging attire.
July 20.--After travelling a post or two, we came in sight of a green
moor, of vast extent, with insulated woods and villages; here and there
the Danube sweeping majestically along, and the city of Ulm rising upon
its banks. The fields in the neighbourhood of the town were overspread
with cloths bleaching in the sun, and waiting for barks, which convey
them down the great river in twelve days to Vienna, and thence, through
Hungary, into the midst of the Turkish empire.
You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than those which
gilded our horizon. For ten miles we beheld no other objects than smooth
unlimited levels interspersed with thickets of oak, beyond which
appeared a long series of mountains. Such were the very spots for
youthful games and exercises, open spaces for the race, and spreading
shades to skreen the spectators.
Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery Savannahs
in the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of Indians
repair once or twice in a century to settle the rights of the chase, and
lead their solemn dances; and so deep an impression do these assemblies
leave on the minds of the savages, that the highest ideas they entertain
of future felicity consist in the perpetual enjoyment of songs and
dances upon the green boundless lawns of their elysium. In the midst of
these visionary plains rises the abode of Ateantsic, encircled by choirs
of departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the sound of spears as they
ring on the shell of the tortoise. Their favourite attendants, long
separated from them while on earth, are restored again in this ethereal
region, and skim freely over the vast level space; now, hailing one
group of beloved friends; and now, another. Mortals newly ushered by
death into this world of pure blue sky and boundless meads, see the
long-lost objects of their affection advancing to meet them, whilst
flights of familiar birds, the purveyors of many an earthly chase, once
more attend their progress, and the shades of their faithful dogs seem
coursing each other below. The whole region is filled with low murmurs
and tinkling sounds, which increase in melody as its new denizens
proceed, who, at length, unable to resist the thrilling music, spring
forward in ecstasies to join the eternal round.
A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me whilst my
eyes wandered over the plains, which imagination widened and extended in
proportion as the twilight prevailed, and so fully abandoned was I to
the illusion of the moment, that I did not for several minutes perceive
our arrival at Günzburg; whence we proceeded the next morning (July 21)
to Augsburg, and rambled about this renowned city till evening. The
colossal paintings on the walls of almost every considerable building
gave it a strange air, which pleases upon the score of novelty.
Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic manner, we
found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a noble statue of
Augustus; which way soever we turned, our eyes met some remarkable
edifice, or marble basin into which several groups of sculptured
river-gods pour a profusion of waters. These stately fountains and
bronze statues, the extraordinary size and loftiness of the buildings,
the towers rising in perspective, and the Doric portal of the
town-house, answered in some measure the idea Montfaucon gives us of
the scene of an ancient tragedy. Whenever a pompous Flemish painter
attempts a representation of Troy or Babylon, and displays in his
back-ground those streets of palaces described in the Iliad, Augsburg,
or some such city, may easily be traced. Frequently a corner of Antwerp
discovers itself; and sometimes, above a Corinthian portico, rises a
Gothic spire: just such a jumble may be viewed from the statue of
Augustus, under which I remained till the concierge came, who was to
open the gates of the town-house and show me its magnificent hall.
I wished for you exceedingly when ascending a flight of a hundred steps;
I entered it through a portal, supported by tall pillars and crowned
with a majestic pediment. Upon advancing, I discovered five more
entrances equally grand, with golden figures of guardian genii leaning
over the entablature; and saw, through a range of windows, each above
thirty feet high, and nearly level with the marble pavement, the whole
city, with all its roofs and spires, beneath my feet. The pillars,
cornices, and panels of this striking apartment are uniformly tinged
with brown and gold; and the ceiling, enriched with emblematical
paintings and innumerable canopies and pendents of carved work, casts a
very magisterial shade. Upon the whole, I should not be surprised at a
burgomaster assuming a formidable dignity in such a room.
I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I descended
the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if on the point of giving
audience to the Queen of Sheba. It happened to be a high festival, and
half the inhabitants of Augsburg were gathered together in the opening
before their hall; the greatest numbers, especially the women, still
exhibiting the very dresses which Hollar engraved. My lofty gait imposed
upon this primitive assembly, which receded to give me passage with as
much silent respect as if I had really been the wise sovereign of
Israel. When I got home, an execrable sourcroutish supper was served up
to my majesty; I scolded in an unroyal style, and soon convinced myself
I was no longer Solomon.