CHAPTER VIII

THE TUILERIES

The “great” balls at the Tuileries were given before Lent; the “little”

balls, otherwise known as the Empress’s “Mondays,” after Easter. At the

larger of these entertainments all the men were in uniform. The Emperor,

the Generals, and the officers of the household wore white cashmere

breeches, silk socks of the same colour, and pumps with buckles.

Civilians were in Court dress, with embroidered collars and cuffs, and

swords; the crush hat (clâque) was carried under the arm. One person

only wore buckskin breeches and high riding-boots of varnished leather:

this was the écuyer on duty.

At the “Mondays” the guests were restricted to those who had been

previously “presented”; they were selected in rotation from a list--this

was the “séries.” Court functionaries and a few of their Majesties’ most

intimate friends were invited to all the “Mondays.” The regulation garb

for men on these occasions was either “shorts,” or very tight-fitting

trousers, and black tail-coats. The Emperor and the officers of the

household were in evening dress, the coat being of a dark blue cloth,

with velvet collar, the lapels lined with white satin, and gilt buttons

bearing a crowned eagle.

Each ball was preceded by a family dinner, the guests being Prince

Napoleon and his wife, Princesse Clothilde; Princesse Mathilde, the

Murat Princes and Princesses, Prince Charles and Princesse Christine

Bonaparte, the Marquis and the Marquise de Roccagiovine, and Comte and

Comtesse Primoli.

About ten o’clock the Emperor and Empress entered the salon of the First

Consul. Here the guests had previously assembled, here new presentations

were made by the First Chamberlain, Comte Bacciochi, and their Majesties

made the tour of the room, saying a few words to all before the dancing

began. The Empress, who seldom danced, took up her position in an

adjoining salon, whither she was generally followed by diplomatists like

Lord Cowley (H.B.M. Ambassador), Prince de Metternich, and Chevalier

Nigra, and by intimate friends like Prosper Mérimée, Édouard Delessert,

Onésime Aguado, and a few others.

During the dancing the Emperor chatted for an hour or so with his

Ministers; then, reappearing in the ballroom, chose a partner, and

himself led a “boulangère,” or formed a set of the “lancers,” preferring

either of these to quadrilles, which he found lacking in “go.” Then came

the cotillon, led by Princesse Anna Murat and the volatile Marquis de

Caux (both unmarried at the time, and both in high favour with the

Sovereigns), who took up their position in chaises volantes in front of

the fireplace. In the cotillon forty couples took part, including on one

occasion (the Marquis de Massa noted) Mlles. de Heeckeren, de Seebach,

de Bassano, Harvey, de Errazu, Magnan, Haussmann, Hamelin, and Bouvet,

whose cavaliers were MM. Davilliers, Castelbajac, Poniatowski,

d’Espeuilles, Duperré, du Bourg, Clermont-Tonnerre, des Varannes (all of

whom were either écuyers or officiers d’ordonnance), Arthur de

Cossé-Brissac (the Empress’s Chamberlain), etc. The cotillons at the

Tuileries were very simple affairs, the presents distributed being

merely flowers and coloured rosettes. The guests supped standing at a

buffet, and by one o’clock the ball was over.

At one of the first of the grand balls given at the Tuileries before the

marriage the Emperor danced in the quadrille of honour with Lady Cowley,

wife of the British Ambassador. “He danced another quadrille with Mlle.

de Montijo, who,” Baron Imbert de Saint-Amand has told us, “was

assuredly the most beautiful of all the women present. Her resplendent

beauty and extreme elegance excited general admiration.... How she would

have shuddered could she have foreseen the state in which she would find

this supper-room in 1870, at the beginning of the fatal war! Then she

would instal an ambulance there. Instead of women loaded with jewels,

there would be sisters of charity with their white cornettes.”

At one of the “small” dances, or, as they were called, “Mondays,” at the

Tuileries--entertainments which always took place before Lent--after the

author of “Colomba”[50] had regaled the chosen few who had been invited

to join the “circle” with some tales drawn from the chroniques

chevaleresques of ancient Spain, the Empress volunteered to tell a

little story of herself when she was still Mlle. de Montijo. The scene

was Estramadura. She was riding a richly-caparisoned mule, and, with her

little party, stopped for a few minutes at an auberge, in front of

which, taking a rest, was a man, shod in espradilles--

Plus délabré que Job, et plus fier que Bragance

--one of those lithe mountaineers, with flashing eyes, the type of

Victor Hugo’s Don César de Bazan and Hernani. The young lady was

parched, and asked for a vaso de agua. Struck by her beauty, the

mountaineer resolved that none but himself should have the honour of

serving the fair traveller, and, snatching from the landlord’s hands the

jug of fresh water and the glass, he filled the latter and offered it to

Mlle. de Montijo, but not until he had knelt a moment in homage. “Muchas

gratias,” said the future Empress, returning to the gallant caballero

the glass, in which some water still remained. Raising the glass to his

lips, he slowly drained it, keeping his gaze fixed upon the lady all the

while, and finally breaking the glass into fragments, in order that no

one else should ever use it!

Of the score or more of those who have essayed to depict the imperial

vie intime during the first years of the reign--from the marriage in

January, 1853, to the “attempt” by Orsini in January, 1858--none has

surpassed M. Gaston Stiegler.[51]

It is early morning, and the Emperor’s toilette is being completed by

his faithful valet, Charles Thélin. The carpet is littered with opened

telegrams and newspapers. His Majesty is tired, and rubs his dull eyes,

while Thélin waxes the large fair moustache which covers the master’s

mouth, and draws it into two fine points. After his sparse locks have

been artistically combed and brushed, “washes” and pomades applied, and

the pale cheeks brightened with rouge--after everything has been done as

scrupulously as the most elegant petite maîtresse could have

desired--Napoleon III. rises and puts on the severely cut frock-coat in

which he is almost invariably seen, save when he is in uniform or

hunting or shooting garb. His faithful companion, his meerschaum pipe,

beautifully coloured, smiles upon him from a little table. He lights it,

and joins his secretary (M. Mocquard) and Dr. Conneau, both blindly

devoted to him. These morning moments were generally the best parts of

his day. Mocquard and Conneau were the friends of his youth, the friends

of his mother, who, on her death-bed, made the doctor promise never to

leave her son.[52]

“Has your Majesty slept well?” asks Conneau.

“Not badly, thank you; but not enough, my good friend,” came from the

thick voice, which did not harmonize with his air of natural

distinction.

“Yes, yes; I know. You returned late--always too late. It is telling

upon you.”

The Emperor took this scolding every morning very amiably. The

solicitude for his health pleased him.

“Youth will have its fling,” said Mocquard, smiling.

“You chaff, Mocquard,” replied the doctor. “I am uneasy until I know the

Emperor is here, in this château, with the doors locked, under the eyes

of the sentinels.”

“I chaff faute de mieux, mon cher. I am entirely of your opinion. But

morality--that is not in my line. We knew nothing about it in my time.

You have taken charge of it, and it could not be in better hands.”

“Well, well,” said Conneau; “let us leave him to kill himself--or to get

killed!” And, growling, he put on his glasses, opened a large book which

he had just received, and plunged into its pages as if he had had enough

of the conversation.

“Charles,” said the Emperor, “tell Félix to send the Prince down and

inquire after the Empress.”

Smoking his pipe, he paced up and down, his head sunk in his shoulders,

balancing his massive body on his short, little legs, which seemed not

to have been made to bear him. He stopped before the mantelpiece; the

blazing fire absorbed his whole attention. He seemed to see in the red

and blue sparks the reflection of the tricks played upon him by that

fortune of which he was himself the most remarkable example, and he

asked himself how long those petits follets would last. Suddenly a huge

log broke into halves, littering the hearth. The beautiful flames were

extinguished, and in their stead came a disagreeable volume of smoke. He

grasped the tongs, carefully picked up the pieces of half-burnt wood,

and, while amusing himself in this patriarchal manner, asked:

“What are you reading, Conneau?”

“I am not reading, Sire.”

“And this great book?”

“It is a Bible, which I bought yesterday.”

“Ah, yes, for your collection,” said the Emperor laughingly. “What

language is it?”

“Hebrew, Sire.”

“Nonsense, Conneau! You don’t know Hebrew, and you are not the man to go

into ecstasies over a Bible, even a French one. Well?”

“It is a magnificent edition, published at Venice in 1551--printed by

Giustinani.”

“Well?”

“Sire, do I laugh at you when, at Champlieu, or elsewhere--in some camp

of Cæsar or other--you pick up old tiles, Roman or pretended Roman;

antique things without form or colour, broken vases which have been used

for Heaven knows what purpose? However, you put them carefully in glass

cases or in the museums, and you like people to look at them. Everybody

has his own hobby.”

“Oh, my poor potteries!” sighed the Emperor. “How they abuse you!”

He laid down the tongs, and, after rolling a cigarette, took up a

fragment of an amphora which had been found during the excavation of a

Merovingian tomb near Soissons. It was a common-looking piece of clay,

without a vestige of decoration. But he held it up to the light, and

examined it with all the tenderness of a connoisseur, while Conneau,

with loving hands, turned the leaves of his beautiful Bible, in which

some amateur had intercalated several rudely-executed pictures.

Less than three years after the imperial nuptials a very distinguished

Englishwoman was the guest of their Majesties. Her son, Lord Ronald

Sutherland Gower, wrote:

In October, 1855, my mother[53] took me over to Paris for the first

time. We visited the Tuileries and Versailles. During one of our

expeditions to some gallery or exhibition the Empress recognized

my mother, although she only knew her from her likeness to her

portrait by Winterhalter, the lithographs of which were in the

printsellers’ windows, and immediately invited her to dine at St.

Cloud, where the Court then was. My mother had known the Emperor

slightly, for on a previous visit [of the Duchess] to Paris he had

called on her at Meurice’s Hotel. Although charmed by the beauty

and grace of the Empress, my mother had little liking for the

imperial Court of France or its master.

In the great year 1867 Lord Ronald, like thousands of English people,

went to Paris for the Exhibition. “It was the apogee of the Second

Empire--of the Empire that smelt half of gunpowder and half of

patchouli. Maximilian’s death was not then known at the Tuileries.

Napoleon III. was then host to all the Sovereigns of the Continent, and

yet within three short years all was in the dust.”

Later (in January, 1868) he was invited to a ball at the Tuileries:

It was a hard winter, and all the gay world was skating in the Bois

de Boulogne. There were Mme. de Metternich, plain, with the

exception of fine, roguish eyes, and always beautifully dressed,

and Mme. de Galliffet, with whose looks I was disappointed. Thanks

to some French friends--the Boyers--I saw a ball at the Tuileries

without the trouble of a presentation to their Imperial Majesties.

As a sight the ball was interesting, unlike any other Court ball

that I have seen. Perhaps the most striking sight was the double

file of Cent Gardes, in their gorgeous pale blue and silver

uniforms, lining the State entrance and staircase and standing

sentry at the doors. After passing the Salon de Diane and

struggling through a crowd principally composed of officers, I got

a good place in front of the daïs, on which the Emperor and

Empress were seated. The Empress was all in white, and looked

strikingly handsome. The Emperor did not appear to advantage in his

white silk tights and stockings, and seemed tired and bored.

During, and between, the dances he walked across the open space in

front of the daïs and conversed with some of the officers and

diplomatists. He was a long time in conversation with a fat

General, who I was told was Lebœuf. The supper was admirably

managed. Piles of truffes en serviette abounded, and here there was

less of a crowd than at Buckingham Palace.

The Duchess of Sutherland was Mistress of the Robes to Queen Victoria

when the Empress paid Her Majesty a visit at Windsor.[54] Lord Ronald,

then at Eton, was sent for by his mother, who was in attendance on the

Queen. He says:

I had a glimpse of the Empress as she passed through a corridor in

the castle, and was greatly struck by her beauty. She had shortly

before lost her sister, the Duchesse d’Albe, and was in deep

mourning for her. An odd idea had taken her fancy--to build on the

site of her sister’s house in Paris, which, after the Duchesse’s

death, she had razed to the ground, a similar building in every

respect to Stafford House, and she had visited that house and sent

architects over to take its dimensions. But the plan fell through;

perhaps it was thought to be too considerable a scheme for

realization.

When the Duchess of Sutherland was in Germany in 1864, accompanied by

Lord Ronald, the then Crown Princess (afterwards the Empress Frederick)

invited her to dine at Potsdam, and the Duchess observed that in the

royal lady’s sitting-room the furniture was covered with Gobelin

tapestry, the gift of the Empress Eugénie.[55]

Among the diplomatists accredited to the Court of the Tuileries until

his retirement in 1867 was Mr. John Bigelow, United States Minister, who

has put on record this not very complimentary appreciation of the

Emperor and Empress of the French:[56]

That the lesson of Louis Napoleon’s life and death might not be too

soon lost to the memory of that portion of the world still in need

of its instruction, his widow, whose picturesque career raises the

Tales of the Thousand and One Nights almost to the dignity of

history, though happily spared in a measure the fate of her

unfortunate sister of Belgium [the Empress Charlotte], shares

another fate scarcely less pitiable. Like Salathiel,[57] she still

tarries, one of the most unhappy of mortals, an Empress without a

country.

In the sous-sols of the Pavillon de Flore were the kitchens of the

Tuileries.[58] This annexe of the Palace was constructed, from the

modified plans of Visconti, by Lefuel, who was interrupted in his work

by the war. He had, however, just time to finish the great staircase,

which is decorated with a beautiful ceiling by Cabanel and four

bas-reliefs by Eugène Guillaume.

In this immense and sumptuous temple--such as Brillat-Savarin and

Grimod de la Reynière could not have dreamt of--all the meals required

for the imperial family and the household were prepared by an army of

cooks, male and female. We can see, in the magnificent nave, the goings

and comings of the officiers de bouche, the patissiers, and the

marmitons. At the entrance of each section was a large marble slab,

inscribed, in gold letters, Vestiaire, Contrôle, Porcelainerie, Lavoir

de l’Argenterie, Pâtisserie, Lavoir de la Cuisine, and so on. All the

walls were oak panelled, finely carved.

On great tables the silver and porcelain vessels were ranged--thousands

of pieces. The most marvellous sight of all--after the kitchens (all

separate) for sauces, for grills, for soups, for pastry, and for

stews--was the huge kitchen in which the roasting was done. This

occupied the whole of the sous-sol of the “Flora” wing. Between two

immense stoves, each having three compartments, each compartment capable

of receiving two sheep and five or six dozen fowls, was the

Brobdingnagian fireplace, of wrought iron and varnished tiles. Each

stove measured nearly fourteen feet in width and about sixteen feet in

height, and each had two solid, movable beams, from which hung spits. Of

the latter there were twenty, with steel racks. Here whole oxen could be

roasted. Above the fireplace was a gigantic central motor, with a

clockwork arrangement, for turning the spits. It was a complicated piece

of machinery, subdivided, and furnished with devices for turning joints

at various speeds. The fuel was naturally wood, with which only can meat

be properly roasted. The logs used were more than twelve feet in length.

The table on which the meat was cut before roasting was of dimensions

which suggested to the more imaginative lookers-on a “village green”!

The wine-cellars sloped downwards beyond the kitchens and their annexes

under the pavilion of the Salle des États, which extended to the

entrances to the Carrousel.[59]

Among the newspapers which found their way into the Tuileries, or

wherever the Court happened to be--St. Cloud, Compiègne, or

Fontainebleau--was a very curious, very audacious, and very amusing

little sheet, published in London only during the season and the

Parliamentary Session. It was called _The Owl_. Much of its most

diverting matter (1864-1869) had reference to Napoleon III. and his

Ministers. The most amazing diplomatic “despatches” were concocted, so

closely resembling the real article that it was sometimes difficult even

for experts to discriminate between the two. To prevent mistakes I must

quote the words of the editor of _The Owl_, Mr. Algernon Borthwick:[60]

The Owls were Evelyn Ashley, Lord Wharncliffe, Stuart Wortley, and

myself. Others wrote for us later ... but we really started the

paper. One night I had a brilliant idea. There had been pourparlers

between the Government and the Emperor Napoleon III. on the subject

of the reduction of armaments. He was, however, unwilling to take

the initiative, and had said, in a private conversation with the

English Ambassador, “Je ne veux pas encore être snubbé” [“I don’t

want to be snubbed again”]. I knew the Emperor’s style in writing,

and concocted a letter supposed to be written by His Majesty, and

ending with the words, “Je ne veux pas encore être snubbé.”... The

_Moniteur_ [the official journal] telegraphed that the letter was

_not_ written by the Emperor, but was an impertinent fabrication,

and our fame was established.... During the Congress of Paris the

delegates lost their tempers, and hot words were exchanged. _We_

wrote a fictitious account of it, and said that they shied the ink

at each other, and that during a lull in the proceedings Lord

Clarendon[61] got up with a bored air and looked out of the window

at an Italian organ-grinder. This last incident really took place,

so the astonishment of those who had been present was great.

Once all the Owls went to Paris, and spent the day in woods near

the city. We sang songs, and crowned ourselves with ivy garlands,

and finally climbed up in a huge old tree, into whose branches we

were hauled up by ropes, ladies and all, singing ballads the while.

The next night we were all invited to a great dinner and ball at

the Tuileries, and the contrast with our woodland revels was

charming.

Early in June, 1865, M. Drouyn de Lhuys presented to the Empress Regent,

in the name of the Paris Cricket Club--an English institution--a box

containing a complete cricketing outfit for the Prince Imperial, then a

little over nine. The Empress sent the following reply:

MONSIEUR,

La fondation d’un club du jeu de cricket ne peut qu’être utile au

développement d’une bonne hygiène publique, si l’exercice de ce jeu

répand autant que je le désire et que le font espérer les efforts

de votre société. J’applaudi de grand cœur à cette fondation, et

j’accepte avec plaisir l’appareil de jeu que vous voulez bien

offrir au Prince Impérial....

(Signé) EUGÉNIE.

ÉCRIT AU PALAIS DES TUILERIES,

_le 7 Juin, 1865_.

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