THE HILL COUNTRY OF DONEGAL--ON THE SQUARE--OFFICE RULES

Left up among my country people in this hill country of Donegal, I set

myself to see and to hear what they had to say for themselves or against

their landlords. In the pauses of storm I walked up the mountains to see

the people in their homes. I seem to have lost the power of description.

I will never think of scenes I saw there without tears. I never, in

Canada, saw pigs housed as I saw human beings here. Sickness, old age,

childhood penned up in such places that one shuddered to go into them.

Now, mark me! every hovel paid rent, or was under eviction for failing

to pay.

The landlord has no duties in the way of repairing a roof or making a

house comfortable. Such a thing is utterly unknown here. To fix the

rent, to collect the rent, to make office rules as whim or cupidity

dictates, to enforce them, in many instances with great brutality, is

the sole business of the landlord; and the whole power of the Executive

of England is at his back. This is not a good school in which to learn

loyalty. Submission to absolute decrees or eviction are the only

alternative.

The tenant has no voice in the bargain. He has no power to be one party

to a contract. This irresponsible power of an autocrat over serfs of the

soil is bad for both parties. I will try to tell these people's side of

the question as nearly in their own words as I can.

When the native population was driven off the good valley lands to the

hills of Donegal during the confiscation times, they built their cabins

in groups, like the Scotch _clachans_, for company, perhaps even

for protection. Each man broke up, clearing off stones and rooting up

whins, the best patch within his reach. He ditched and drained pieces of

low-lying bog, and paid for what he cultivated, all the rest being

common.

By what title the Clemens of Leitrim got lordship over the wild hills as

well as the fat lowlands I cannot tell; but all the country here, for

miles and miles, up hill and down vale, is his. The people have

absolutely no rights, far as the land is concerned.

The first move towards this dreadful state of things was called

"Squaring the farms." This was done to compel the people to pay for the

wild as well as the cultivated lands. Under the old system a man might

have a few goats or sheep, or a heifer, on the hills, and, if his crop

was not good, or a hail storm threshed out his oats, he could sacrifice

these to pay the rent. When the farms were squared each man drew lots

for his new holding. I am speaking of Lord Leitrim's estate. This was a

hard decree, but the tenant had no alternative but to submit. A man

often found himself squared out of the best of his clearing, squared out

of his cabin and all accommodation for his cow or horse, and squared on

to a new place without any house on it at all.

I made particular enquiry if Lord Leitrim had ever made any allowance or

compensation to a man deprived of the house, which he or his fathers had

built, after this summary fashion. No compensation. Every fixture put

upon the land belonged to the landlord absolutely.

"Was there ever any help allowed to a man in building a new house?"

"In a very few instances a man got a door and a couple of window-sashes

as a charitable assistance, not by any means as a compensation."

After some time the wild mountains, where there was nothing but rocks

and heather, were fenced off. Before this the goats and sheep grazed up

there. A new office rule made the price for a sheep or goat picking a

living among the heather. It was one shilling and sixpence for a sheep

with a lamb at her foot, and other animals in proportion. Still the

wretched men of the hills struggled to live on in the only homes they

had, or had ever known. Then the rents were raised. In one instance from

L3 11s 4d to L6 5s for 6 Irish acres, the increased value being the

result of the man's own hard labor. In another instance from L1 9s 4d to

L13. Another office rule charges five shillings for the privilege of

cutting turf for fuel even if cut on the little holding for which he is

paying rent.

Now, when every nerve was strained to pay this rack rent, and cattle

were high in price, if the unfortunate tenant failed, why, he was

evicted. He might go where he liked, to the workhouse or the asylum, or

the roadside, his little clearing would make pasture, and this, at the

price of beef cattle, would be still more profitable. For any landlord

in this part of Donegal to speak of freedom of contract is a fallacy. It

does not exist.

The oppression at present exercised by Captain Dopping on the Leitrim

estate, which he can carry out safely under the protection of bayonets,

would raise up Judge Lynch in America before three months. Lately, the

people told me, he visited the farm-houses in person, pulled open the

doors of the little room that the better class strive to have, without

permission asked, and walked in to inspect if there were any signs of

prosperity hidden from the eye that might warrant further extortion.

This act was resented with a feeling that found no relief in words. I

noticed that there was no word of complaint or denunciation anywhere.

Facts were stated, and you understood by glance and tone that the time

for mere complaint was past.

I was taken to see a paralytic schoolmaster who had dared to build a

room next to the school-house out of which he was helped into school

every morning, for he could teach, though he had lost the use of his

limbs. No sooner did Lord Leitrim know this than he had the paralytic

carried out and laid on the road, and the room which he had built with

his earnings and the help of his neighbors, was pulled down--not one

stone was left upon another. He then lost his situation which was his

living. I can hardly bear to describe this man's dwelling in which I

found himself, his wife, four children and the cow. The winds of the

mountain and the rains of heaven equally found their way in. His wife

teaches sewing in the school at a salary of L8 per annum. This, with

other help from the Rev. Mr. Martin, formerly Episcopal Rector of

Kilmacrennan, who got the wife the post of schoolmistress, has kept

these people alive. The father has not seen the sky since he was evicted

in 1870. At present there is a writ of ejectment on the house for L9 of

back rent, and he is sued for seed, got in the time of scarcity.

The house is horrible--there are boards with some straw on them over the

beds. The children are very pretty, and as hardy as mountain goats. The

father was quite an educated man, to judge from his speech. I, who was

well clothed, shivered at the hearth, but want and nakedness stayed

there constantly. If this poor man were put in the poor-house, he would

have to part from the faithful wife and sweet children; but that is the

doom that stares him in the face.

The longer I stayed among the hills the more I became convinced that the

people had strained every nerve to pay what they considered unjust and

extortionate rents. They worked hard; they farmed hard; they wore poor

clothing; they left their hill and went over to Scotland or England, at

harvest time, to earn money to pay the rent. "And we were not considered

as kindly, or as much respected, as their hogs or dogs," said a farmer

to me. There was nothing left after the rent for comfort, or to use in

case of sickness; they always lived on the brink of starvation.

"Why did you not refuse to pay these increased rents when they were put

upon you first? You should have refused in a body, and stood out," I

said to one man. "Some could do that, my lady, but most could not. At

first I had the old people depending on me, and I could not see them on

the hillside; now I have little children, and the wife is weakly. And

there were many like me, or even worse."

Now consider some of the office rules. My lord had a pound of his own:

for a stray beast, so much; for a beast caught up the mountain without

leave, eviction; for burning the limestone on your own place instead of

buying it at the lord's kiln, eviction; for burning some parings of the

peat land, the ashes of which made the potatoes grow bigger and drier,

eviction. Not only did the man who did not doff his hat to the landlord

stand in danger, but the man who did not uncover to his lowest under-

bailiff. One exaction after another, one tyranny after another has dug a

gulf between landlord and tenant that will be hard to bridge. I saw a

stone house used as a barn. Lord Leitrim made the man who built it, who

had got permission to build from the good Earl, tear down the chimney

and make an office-house of it, on pain of eviction. He must continue to

live himself in the hovel. Another widow woman, evicted for not being

able to pay her rent, had the roof torn off her house, but has a place

like a goose pen among the ruins, and here she stays. Every day rides

out Capt. Dopping with his escort of police, paid for by the county, and

evicts without mercy. Since the eyes of the world have been drawn to

Ireland by the proceedings of the Land League none have been left to die

outside. The tenants are admitted as caretakers by the week, but the

eviction, I am told, extinguishes any claim the poor people might have

under the Ulster Custom.

I have seen nothing yet to make me think I was in a disturbed country

except meeting Captain Dopping and his escort, and seeing white police

barracks and dandy policemen, who literally overrun the country. It

carries one's mind back to the days of bloody Claverhouse or wicked

Judge Jeffries to hear and see the feelings which the country people--

Catholic as well as Protestant--have towards the memory of the late

Earl. "Dear, the cup of his iniquity was full, the day of vengeance was

come, and the earth could hold him no longer," said a Protestant to me.

"It was bad for the people, whoever they were, that took vengeance out

of the hands of the Almighty, but many a poor creature he had sent out

of the world before he lay helpless at the mercy of his enemies," said

many an orthodox person to me. One poor girl on that dreadful day

thanked God that the oppressor was laid low. Her mother evicted, had

died on the roadside exposed to the weather of the hills, her brother

went mad at the sight of misery he would almost have died to relieve but

could not, and is now in the asylum at Letterkenny. One can imagine with

what feeling this desolate girl lifted her hands when she heard of the

murder, and said, "I thank Thee, O Lord."

What kind of a system is it that produces such scenes, and such

feelings? It is a noticeable fact how many there are in the asylum in

Letterkenny whose madness they blame on the horrors of these evictions.

Wise legislation may find a remedy for these evils, but the memory of

them will never die out. It is graven on the mountains, it is stamped on

the valleys, it is recorded on the rocks forever.

The Letters of "Norah" on Her Tour Through Ireland · 第 17 / 90 题