CHAPTER XIX

BORROW'S SPANISH CIRCLE

There are many interesting personalities that pass before us in Borrow's

three separate narratives,[125] as they may be considered, of his

Spanish experiences. We would fain know more concerning the two

excellent secretaries of the Bible Society--Samuel Brandram and Joseph

Jowett. We merely know that the former was rector of Beckenham and was

one of the Society's secretaries until his death in 1850;[126] that the

latter was rector of Silk Willoughby in Lincolnshire, and belonged to

the same family as Jowett of Balliol. But there are many quaint

characters in Borrow's own narrative to whom we are introduced. There is

Maria Diaz, for example, his landlady in the house in the Calle de

Santiago in Madrid, and her husband, Juan Lopez, also assisted Borrow in

his Bible distribution. Very eloquent are Borrow's tributes to the pair

in the pages of _The Bible in Spain_. 'Honour to Maria Diaz, the quiet,

dauntless, clever, Castilian female! I were an ungrate not to speak well

of her,' We get a glimpse of Maria and her husband long years afterwards

when a pensioner in a Spanish almshouse revealed himself as the son of

Borrow's friends. Eduardo Lopez was only eight years of age when Borrow

was in Madrid, and he really adds nothing to our knowledge.[127] Then

there were those two incorrigible vagabonds--Antonio Buchini, his Greek

servant with an Italian name, and Benedict Mol, the Swiss of Lucerne,

who turns up in all sorts of improbable circumstances as the seeker of

treasure in the Church of St. James of Compostella--only a masterly

imagination could have made him so interesting. Concerning these there

is nothing to supplement Borrow's own story. But we have attractive

glimpses of Borrow in the frequently quoted narrative of Colonel

Napier,[128] and this is so illuminating that I venture to reproduce it

at greater length than previous biographers have done. Edward Elers

Napier, who was born in 1808, was the son of one Edward Elers of the

Royal Navy. His widow married the famous Admiral Sir Charles Napier, who

adopted her four children by her first husband. Edward Elers, the

younger, or Edward Napier, as he came to be called, was educated at

Sandhurst and entered the army, serving for some years in India. Later

his regiment was ordered to Gibraltar, and it was thence that he made

several sporting excursions into Spain and Morocco. Later he served in

Egypt, and when, through ill-health, he retired in 1843 on half-pay, he

lived for some years in Portugal. In 1854 he returned to the army and

did good work in the Crimea, becoming a lieutenant-general in 1864. He

died in 1870. He wrote, in addition to these _Excursions_, several

other books, including _Scenes and Sports in Foreign Lands_.[129] It was

during his military career at Gibraltar that he met George Borrow at

Seville, as the following extracts from his book testify. Borrow's

pretension to have visited the East is characteristic--and amusing:--

1839. _Saturday 4th_.--Out early, sketching at the Alcazar.

After breakfast it set in a day of rain, and I was reduced to

wander about the galleries overlooking the 'patio.' Nothing so

dreary and out of character as a rainy day in Spain. Whilst

occupied in moralising over the dripping water-spouts, I

observed a tall, gentlemanly-looking man, dressed in a

zamarra,[130] leaning over the balustrades, and apparently

engaged in a similar manner with myself. Community of thoughts

and occupation generally tends to bring people together. From

the stranger's complexion, which was fair, but with brilliant

black eyes, I concluded he was not a Spaniard; in short, there

was something so remarkable in his appearance that it was

difficult to say to what nation he might belong. He was tall,

with a commanding appearance; yet, though apparently in the

flower of manhood, his hair was so deeply tinged with the

winter of either age or sorrow as to be nearly snow-white.

Under these circumstances, I was rather puzzled as to what

language I should address him in. At last, putting a bold face

on the matter, I approached him with a 'Bonjour, monsieur, quel

triste temps!'

'Yes, sir,' replied he in the purest Parisian accent; 'and it

is very unusual weather here at this time of the year.'

'Does "monsieur" intend to be any time at Seville?' asked I. He

replied in the affirmative. We were soon on a friendly footing,

and from his varied information I was both amused and

instructed. Still I became more than ever in the dark as to his

nationality; I found he could speak English as fluently as

French. I tried him on the Italian track; again he was

perfectly at home.

He had a Greek servant, to whom his gave his orders in Romaïc.

He conversed in good Castilian with 'mine host'; exchanged a

German salutation with an Austrian Baron, at the time an inmate

of the fonda; and on mentioning to him my morning visit to

Triano, which led to some remarks on the gypsies, and the

probable place from whence they derived their origin, he

expressed his belief that it was from Moultan, and said that,

even to this day, they retained many Moultanee and Hindoostanee

expressions, such as 'pánee' (water), 'buree pánee'[131] (the

sea), etc. He was rather startled when I replied 'in Hindee,'

but was delighted on finding I was an Indian, and entered

freely, and with depth and acuteness, on the affairs of the

East, most of which part of the world he had visited.

In such varied discourse did the hours pass so swiftly away

that we were not a little surprised when Pépé, the 'mozo' (and

I verily believe all Spanish waiters are called Pépé),

announced the hour of dinner; after which we took a long walk

together on the banks of the river. But, on our return, I was

as much as ever in ignorance as to who might be my new and

pleasant acquaintance.

I took the first opportunity of questioning Antonio Baillie

(Buchini) on the subject, and his answer only tended to

increase my curiosity. He said that nobody knew what nation the

mysterious 'Unknown' belonged to, nor what were his motives for

travelling. In his passport he went by the name of ----, and as

a British subject, but in consequence of a suspicion being

entertained that he was a Russian spy, the police kept a sharp

look-out over him. Spy or no spy, I found him a very agreeable

companion; and it was agreed that on the following day we

should visit together the ruins of Italica.

_May 5._--After breakfast, the 'Unknown' and myself, mounting

our horses, proceeded on our expedition to the ruins of

Italica. Crossing the river, and proceeding through the

populous suburb of Triano, already mentioned, we went over the

same extensive plain that I had traversed in going to San

Lucar, but keeping a little more to the right a short ride

brought us in sight of the Convent of San Isidrio, surrounded

by tall cypress and waving date-trees. This once richly-endowed

religious establishment is, together with the small

neighbouring village of Santi Ponci, I believe, the property of

the Duke of Medina Coeli, at whose expense the excavations are

now carried on at the latter place, which is the ancient site

of the Roman Italica.

We sat down on a fragment of the walls, and sadly recalling the

splendour of those times of yore, contrasted with the

desolation around us, the 'Unknown' began to feel the vein of

poetry creeping through his inward soul, and gave vent to it by

reciting, with great emphasis and effect, and to the

astonishment of the wondering peasant, who must have thought

him 'loco,' the following well-known and beautiful lines:--

'Cypress and ivy, weed and wallflower, grown,

Matted and massed together, hillocks heap'd

On what were chambers, arch crush'd, column strown

In fragments, choked up vaults, and frescoes steep'd

In subterranean damps, where the owl peep'd,

Deeming it midnight; Temples, baths, or halls--

Pronounce who can: for all that Learning reap'd

From her research hath been, that these are walls.'

I had been too much taken up with the scene, the verses, and

the strange being who was repeating them with so much feeling,

to notice the approach of one who now formed the fourth person

of our party. This was a slight female figure, beautiful in the

extreme, but whom tattered garments, raven hair (which fell in

matted elf-locks over her naked shoulders), swarthy complexion,

and flashing eyes, proclaimed to be of the wandering tribe of

'gitános.' From an intuitive sense of natural politeness she

stood with crossed arms, and a slight smile on her dark and

handsome countenance, until my companion had ceased, and then

addressed us in the usual whining tone of supplication, with

'Caballeritos, una limosita! Dios se lo pagara a ustedes!'

('Gentlemen, a little charity! God will repay it to you!') The

gypsy girl was so pretty, and her voice so sweet, that I

involuntarily put my hand in my pocket.

'Stop!' said the 'Unknown.' 'Do you remember what I told you

about the Eastern origin of these people? You shall see I am

correct. Come here, my pretty child,' said he in Moultanee,

'and tell me where are the rest of your tribe?'

The girl looked astounded, replied in the same tongue, but in

broken language; when, taking him by the arm, she said, in

Spanish: 'Come, caballero; come to one who will be able to

answer you;' and she led the way down amongst the ruins towards

one of the dens formerly occupied by the wild beasts, and

disclosed to us a set of beings scarcely less savage. The

sombre walls of this gloomy abode were illumined by a fire, the

smoke from which escaped through a deep fissure in the massy

roof; whilst the flickering flames threw a blood-red glare on

the bronzed features of a group of children, of two men, and a

decrepit old hag, who appeared busily engaged in some culinary

preparations.

On our entrance, the scowling glance of the males of the party,

and a quick motion of the hand towards the folds of the

'faja,'[132] caused in _me_, at least, anything but a

comfortable sensation; but their hostile intentions, if ever

entertained, were immediately removed by a wave of the hand

from our conductress, who, leading my companion towards the

sibyl, whispered something in her ear. The old crone appeared

incredulous. The 'Unknown' uttered one word; but that word had

the effect of magic; she prostrated herself at his feet, and in

an instant, from an object of suspicion he became one of

worship to the whole family, to whom, on taking leave, he made

a handsome present, and departed with their united blessings,

to the astonishment of myself, and what looked very like terror

in our Spanish guide.

I was, as the phrase goes, dying with curiosity, and, as soon

as we mounted our horses, exclaimed, 'Where, in the name of

goodness, did you pick up your acquaintance and the language of

these extraordinary people?' 'Some years ago, in Moultan,' he

replied. 'And by what means do you possess such apparent

influence over them?' But the 'Unknown' had already said more

than he perhaps wished on the subject. He drily replied that he

had more than once owed his life to gipsies, and had reason to

know them well; but this was said in a tone which precluded all

further queries on my part. The subject was never again

broached, and we returned in silence to the fonda....

_May 7th._--Pouring with rain all day, during which I was

mostly in the society of the 'Unknown.' This is a most

extraordinary character, and the more I see of him the more I

am puzzled. He appears acquainted with everybody and

everything, but apparently unknown to every one himself. Though

his figure bespeaks youth--and by his own account his age does

not exceed thirty--yet the snows of eighty winters could not

have whitened his locks more completely than they are. But in

his dark and searching eye there is an almost supernatural

penetration and lustre, which, were I inclined to superstition,

might induce me to set down its possessor as a second Melmoth;

and in that character he often appears to me during the

troubled rest I sometimes obtain through the medium of the

great soother, 'laudanum.'

The next most interesting figure in the Borrow gallery of this period is

Don Luis de Usóz y Rio, who was a good friend to Borrow during the whole

of his sojourn in Spain. It was he who translated Borrow's appeal to the

Spanish Prime Minister to be permitted to distribute Scio's New

Testament. He watched over Borrow with brotherly solicitude, and wrote

him more than one excellent letter, of which the two following from my

Borrow Papers, the last written at the close of the Spanish period, are

the most interesting:

To Mr. George Borrow

(_Translated from the Spanish_)

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 17, ROME, _7 April 1838._

DEAR FRIEND,--I received your letter, and thank you for the

same. I know the works under the name of 'Boz,' about which you

write, and also the _Memoirs of the Pickwick Club_, and

although they seemed to me good, I have failed to appreciate

properly their qualities, because much of the dramatic style

and dialogue in the same are very difficult for those who know

English merely from books. I made here a better acquaintance

than that of Mezzofanti (who knows nothing), namely, that of

Prof. Michel-Angelo Lanci, already well-known on account of his

work, _La sacra scrittura illustrata con monumenti

fenico-assiri ed egiziani_, etc., etc. (The Scriptures,

illustrated with Ph[oe]nician-Assyrian and Egyptian monuments),

which I am reading at present, and find very profound and

interesting, and more particularly very original. He has

written and presented me a book, _Esposizione dei versetti del

Giobbe intorno al cavallo_ (Explanation of verses of Job about

a horse), and in these and other works he proves himself to be

a great philologist and Oriental scholar. I meet him almost

daily, and I assure you that he seems to me to know everything

he treats thoroughly, and not like Gayangos or Calderon, etc.,

etc. His philosophic works have created a great stir here, and

they do not please much the friars here; but as here they are

not like the police barbarians there, they do not forbid it, as

they cannot. Lanci is well known in Russia and in Germany, and

when I bring his works there, and you are there and have not

read them, you will read them and judge for yourself.

Wishing you well, and always at your service, I remain, always

yours,

LUIS DE USÓZ Y RIO.

To Mr. George Borrow

(_Translated from the Spanish_)

NAPLES, _28 August 1839._

DEAR FRIEND,--I received your letter of the 28 July written

from Sevilla, and I am waiting for that which you promise me

from Tangier.

I am glad that you liked Sevilla, and I am still more glad of

the successful shipment of the beloved book. In distributing

it, you are rendering the greatest service that generous

foreigners (I mean Englishmen) can render to the real freedom

and enlightenment in Spain, and any Spaniard who is at heart a

gentleman must be grateful for this service to the Society and

to its agent. In my opinion, if Spain had maintained the

customs, character, and opinions that it had three centuries

ago, it ought to have maintained also unity in religious

opinions: but that at present the circumstances have changed,

and the moral character and the advancement of my unfortunate

country would not lose anything in its purification and

progress by (the grant of) religious liberty.

You are saying that I acted very light-mindedly in judging

Mezzofanti without speaking to him. You know that the other

time when I was in Italy I had dealings and spoke with him, and

that I said to you that he had a great facility for speaking

languages, but that otherwise he was no good. Because I have

seen him several times in the Papal chapels with a certain air

of an ass and certain grimaces of a blockhead that cannot

happen to a man of talent. I am told, moreover, that he is a

spy, and that for that reason he was given the hat. I know,

moreover, that he has not written anything at all. For that

reason I do not wish to take the trouble of seeing him.

As regards Lanci, I am not saying anything except that I am

waiting until you have read his work without passion, and that

if my books have arrived at Madrid, you can ask my brother in

Santiago.

You are judging of him and of Pahlin in the way you reproach me

with judging Mezzofanti; I thank you, and I wish for the

dedication Gabricote; and I also wish for your return to

Madrid, so that in going to Toledo you would get a copy of

Aristophanes with the order that will be given to you by my

brother, who has got it.

If for the Gabricote or other work you require my clumsy pen,

write to Florence and send me a rough copy of what is to be

done, in English or in Spanish, and I will supply the finished

work. From Florence I intend to go to London, and I should be

obliged if you would give me letters and instructions that

would be of use to me in literary matters, but you must know

that my want of knowledge of _speaking_ English makes it

necessary that the Englishmen who speak to me should know

Spanish, French, or Italian.

As regards robberies, of which you accuse Southern people, from

the literatures of the North, do you think that the robberies

committed by the Northerners from the Southern literature would

be left behind? Erunt vitia donec homines.--Always yours,

ELEUTHEROS.

Yet another acquaintance of these Spanish days was Baron Taylor--Isidore

Justin Séverin Taylor, to give him his full name--who had a career of

wandering achievement, with Government pay, that must have appealed to

Borrow. Although his father was an Englishman he became a naturalised

Frenchman, and he was for a time in the service of the French Government

as Director of the Théâtre Français, when he had no little share in the

production of the dramas of Victor Hugo and Dumas. Later he was

instrumental in bringing the Luxor obelisk from Egypt to Paris. He wrote

books upon his travels in Spain, Portugal and Morocco.[133] He wandered

all over Europe in search of art treasures for the French Government,

and may very well have met Borrow again and again. Borrow tells us that

he had met Taylor in France, in Russia, and in Ireland, before he met

him in Andalusia, collecting pictures for the French Government.

Borrow's description of their meetings is inimitable:--

Whenever he descries me, whether in the street or the desert,

the brilliant hall or amongst Bedouin _haimas_, at Novogorod or

Stambul, he flings up his arms and exclaims, "_O ciel_! I have

again the felicity of seeing my cherished and most respectable

Borrow."[134]

[Illustration: A LETTER FROM SIR GEORGE VILLIERS, AFTERWARDS EARL OF

CLARENDON, BRITISH MINISTER TO SPAIN, TO GEORGE BORROW]

The last and most distinguished of Borrow's colleagues while in Spain

was George Villiers, fourth Earl of Clarendon, whom we judge to have

been in private life one of the most lovable men of his epoch. George

Villiers was born in London in 1800, and was the grandson of the first

Earl, Thomas Villiers, who received his title when holding office in

Lord North's administration, but is best known from his association in

diplomacy with Frederick the Great. His grandson was born, as it were,

into diplomacy, and at twenty years of age was an _attaché_ to the

British Embassy in St. Petersburg. Later he was associated with Sir John

Bowring in negotiating a commercial treaty with France. In August 1833

he was sent as British Minister--'envoy extraordinary' he was called--to

Madrid, and he had been two years in that seething-pot of Spanish

affairs, with Christinos and Carlists at one another's throats, when

Borrow arrived in the Peninsula. His influence was the greater with a

succession of Spanish Prime Ministers in that in 1838 he had been

largely instrumental in negotiating the quadruple alliance between

England, France, Spain, and Portugal. In March 1839--exactly a year

before Borrow took his departure--he resigned his position at Madrid,

having then for some months exchanged the title of Sir George Villiers

for that of Earl of Clarendon through the death of his uncle;[135]

Borrow thereafter having to launch his various complaints and grievances

at his successor, Mr.--afterwards Sir George--Jerningham, who, it has

been noted, had his home in Norfolk, at Costessey, four miles from

Norwich. Villiers returned to England with a great reputation, although

his Spanish policy was attacked in the House of Lords. In that same

year, 1839, he joined Lord Melbourne's administration as Lord Privy

Seal, O'Connell at the time declaring that he ought to be made

Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, so sympathetic was he towards concession and

conciliation in that then feverishly excited country. This office

actually came to him in 1847, and he was Lord-Lieutenant through that

dark period of Ireland's history, including the Famine, the Young

Ireland rebellion, and the Smith O'Brien rising. He pleased no one in

Ireland. No English statesman could ever have done so under such ideals

of government as England would have tolerated then, and for long years

afterwards. The Whigs defended him, the Tories abused him, in their

respective organs. He left Ireland in 1852 and was more than once

mentioned as possible Prime Minister in the ensuing years. He was

Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs in Lord Aberdeen's Administration

during the Crimean War, and he held the same office under Lord

Palmerston, again under Earl Russell in 1865, and under Mr. Gladstone in

1868. He might easily have become Prime Minister. Greville in his

_Diary_ writes of Prince Albert's desire that he should succeed Lord

John Russell, but Clarendon said that no power on earth would make him

take that position. He said he could not speak, and had not had

parliamentary experience enough. He died in 1870, leaving a reputation

as a skilful diplomatist and a disinterested politician, if not that of

a great statesman. He had twice refused the Governor-Generalship of

India, and three times a marquisate.

Sir George Villiers seems to have been very courteous to Borrow during

the whole of the time they were together in Spain. It would have been

easy for him to have been quite otherwise. Borrow's Bible mission

synchronised with a very delicate diplomatic mission of his own, and in

a measure clashed with it. The government of Spain was at the time

fighting the ultra-clericals. Physical and moral strife were rife in the

land. Neither Royalists nor Carlists could be expected to sympathise

with Borrow's schemes, which were fundamentally to attack their church.

But Villiers was at all times friendly, and, as far as he could be,

helpful. Borrow seems to have had ready access to him, and he answered

his many letters. He gave Borrow an opportunity of an interview with the

formidable Prime Minister Mendizábal, and he interviewed another

minister and persuaded him to permit Borrow to print and circulate his

Bibles. He intervened successfully to release Borrow from his Madrid

prison. But Villiers could not have had any sympathy with Borrow other

than as a British subject to be protected on the Roman citizen

principle. We do not suppose that when _The Bible in Spain_ appeared he

was one of those who were captivated by its extraordinary qualities.

When Borrow crossed his path in later life he received no special

consideration, such as would be given very promptly in our day by a

Cabinet minister to a man of letters of like distinction. We find him on

one occasion writing to the ex-minister, now Lord Clarendon, asking his

help for a consulship. Clarendon replied kindly enough, but sheltered

himself behind the statement that the Prime Minister was overwhelmed

with applications for patronage. Yet Clarendon, who held many high

offices in the following years, might have helped if he had cared to do

so. Some years later--in 1847--there was further correspondence when

Borrow desired to become a Magistrate of Suffolk. Here again Clarendon

wrote three courteous letters, and appears to have done his best in an

unenthusiastic way. But nothing came of it all.

FOOTNOTES:

[125] The accounts in _The Bible in Spain_, _The Gypsies of Spain_, and

the _Letters to the Bible Society_.

[126] The only 'Samuel Brandram' in the _Dictionary of National

Biography_ is a reciter who died in 1892; he certainly had less claim to

the distinction than his namesake.

[127] See 'Footprints of George Borrow' by A. G. Jayne in _The Bible in

the World_ for July 1908.

[128] _Excursions along the Shores of the Mediterranean_, by

Lieut.-Colonel E. Napier, vol. ii (Henry Colburn), 1842.

[129] See _Dictionary of National Biography_, vol. xl. pp. 54-55.

[130] A sheepskin jacket with the wool outside, a costume much worn here

in cold weather.

[131] 'pánee' is masculine (marginal note in pencil).

[132] In the folds of the sash is concealed the 'navaja,' or formidable

clasp-knife, always worn by the Spaniard.

[133] His principal work was _Voyages pittoresques et romantiques dans

l'ancienne France_.

[134] _The Bible in Spain_, ch. xv.

[135] Many interesting letters from Villiers will be found in _Memoirs

and Memories_, by his niece, Mrs. C. W. Earle, 1911.

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