CHAPTER V

GEORGE BORROW'S NORWICH--THE GURNEYS

Norwich may claim to be one of the most fascinating cities in the

kingdom. To-day it is known to the wide world by its canaries and its

mustard, although its most important industry is the boot trade, in

which it employs some eight thousand persons. To the visitor it has many

attractions. The lovely cathedral with its fine Norman arches, the

Erpingham Gate so splendidly Gothic, the noble Castle Keep so imposingly

placed with the cattle-market below--these are all as Borrow saw them

nearly a century ago. So also is the church of St. Peter Mancroft, where

Sir Thomas Browne lies buried. And to the picturesque Mousehold Heath

you may still climb and recall one of the first struggles for liberty

and progress that past ages have seen, the Norfolk rising under Robert

Kett which has only not been glorified in song and in picture, because--

Treason doth never prosper--what's the reason?

Why if it prosper none dare call it treason.

And Kett's so-called rebellion was destined to failure, and its leader

to cruel martyrdom. Mousehold Heath has been made the subject of

paintings by Turner and Crome, and of fine word pictures by George

Borrow. When Borrow and his parents lighted upon Norwich in 1814 and

1816 the city had inspiring literary associations. Before the invention

of railways it seemed not uncommon for a fine intellectual life to

emanate from this or that cathedral city. Such an intellectual life was

associated with Lichfield when the Darwins and the Edgeworths gathered

at the Bishop's Palace around Dr. Seward and his accomplished daughters.

Norwich has more than once been such a centre. The first occasion was in

the period of which we write, when the Taylors and the Gurneys

flourished in a region of ideas; the second was during the years from

1837 to 1849, when Edward Stanley held the bishopric. This later period

does not come into our story, as by that time Borrow had all but left

Norwich. But of the earlier period, the period of Borrow's more or less

fitful residence in Norwich--1814 to 1833--we are tempted to write at

some length. There were three separate literary and social forces in

Norwich in the first decades of the nineteenth century--the Gurneys of

Earlham, the Taylor-Austin group, and William Taylor, who was in no way

related to Mrs. John Taylor and her daughter, Sarah Austin. The Gurneys

were truly a remarkable family, destined to leave their impress upon

Norwich and upon a wider world. At the time of his marriage in 1773 to

Catherine Bell, John Gurney, wool-stapler of Norwich, took his young

wife, whose face has been preserved in a canvas by Gainsborough, to live

in the old Court House in Magdalen Street, which had been the home of

two generations of the Gurney family. In 1786 John Gurney went with his

continually growing family to live at Earlham Hall, some two or three

miles out of Norwich on the Earlham Road. Here that family of eleven

children--one boy had died in infancy--grew up. Not one but has an

interesting history, which is recorded by Mr. Augustus Hare and other

writers.[34] Elizabeth, the fourth daughter, married Joseph Fry, and as

Elizabeth Fry attained to a world-wide fame as a prison reformer. Hannah

married Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton of Slave Trade Abolition; Richenda, the

Rev. Francis Cunningham, who sent George Borrow upon his career; while

Louisa married Samuel Hoare of Hampstead. Of her Joseph John Gurney said

at her death in 1836 that she was 'superior in point of talent to any

other of my father's eleven children.' It is with the eleventh child,

however, that we have mainly to do, for this son, Joseph John Gurney,

alone appears in Borrow's pages. The picture of these eleven Quaker

children growing up to their various destinies under the roof of Earlham

Hall is an attractive one. Men and women of all creeds accepted the

catholic Quaker's hospitality. Mrs. Opie and a long list of worthies of

the past come before us, and when Mr. Gurney, in 1802, took his six

unmarried daughters to the Lakes Old Crome accompanied them as

drawing-master. There is, however, one picture in the story of

unforgettable charm, the episode of the courtship of Elizabeth Gurney by

Joseph Fry, and this I must quote from Mr. Augustus Hare's pleasant

book:

Mr. Fry had no intention of exposing himself to the possibility

of a refusal. He bought a very handsome gold watch and chain,

and laid it down upon a white seat--the white seat which still

exists--in the garden at Earlham. 'If Betsy takes up that

watch,' he said, 'it is a sign that she accepts me: if she does

not take it up by a particular hour, it will show that I must

leave Earlham.'

The six sisters concealed themselves in six laurel-bushes in

different parts of the grounds to watch. One can imagine their

intense curiosity and anxiety. At last the tall, graceful

Betsy, her flaxen hair now hidden under a Quaker cap, shyly

emerged upon the gravel walk. She seemed scarcely conscious of

her surroundings, as if, 'on the wings of prayer, she was being

wafted into the unseen.' But she reached the garden seat, and

there, in the sunshine, lay the glittering new watch. The sight

of it recalled her to earth. She could not, could not, take it,

and fled swiftly back to the house. But the six sisters

remained in their laurel-bushes. They felt sure she would

revoke, and they did not watch in vain. An hour elapsed, in

which her father urged her, and in which conscience seemed to

drag her forwards. Once again did the anxious sisters see Betsy

emerge from the house, with more faltering steps this time, but

still inwardly praying, and slowly, tremblingly, they saw her

take up the watch, and the deed was done. She never afterwards

regretted it, though it was a bitter pang to her when she

collected her eighty-six children in the garden at Earlham and

bade them farewell, and though she wrote in her journal as a

bride, 'I cried heartily on leaving Norwich; the very stones in

the street were dear to me.'

In 1803--the year of Borrow's birth--John Gurney became a partner in the

great London Bank of Overend and Gurney, and his son, Joseph John, in

that same year went up to Oxford. In 1809 Joseph returned to take his

place in the bank, and to preside over the family of unmarried sisters

at Earlham, father and mother being dead, and many members of the family

distributed. Incidentally, we are told by Mr. Hare that the Gurneys of

Earlham at this time drove out with four black horses, and that when

Bishop Bathurst, Stanley's predecessor, required horses for State

occasions to drive him to the cathedral, he borrowed these, and the more

modest episcopal horses took the Quaker family to their meeting-house.

It does not come within the scope of this book, discursive as I choose

to make it, to trace the fortunes of these eleven remarkable Gurney

children, or even of Borrow's momentary acquaintance, Joseph John

Gurney. His residence at Earlham, and his life of philanthropy, are a

romance in a way, although one wonders whether if the name of Gurney had

not been associated with so much of virtue and goodness the crash that

came long after Joseph John Gurney's death would have been quite so full

of affliction for a vast multitude. Joseph John Gurney died in 1847, in

his fifty-ninth year; his sister, Mrs. Fry, had died two years earlier.

The younger brother and twelfth child--Joseph John being the

eleventh--Daniel Gurney, the last of the twelve children, lived till

1880, aged eighty-nine. He had outlived by many years the catastrophe to

the great banking firm with which the name of Gurney is associated. This

great firm of Overend and Gurney, of which yet another brother, Samuel,

was the moving spirit, was organised nine years after his death--in

1865--into a joint-stock company, which failed to the amount of eleven

millions in 1866. At the time of the failure, which affected all

England, much as did the Liberator smash a generation later, the only

Gurney in the directorate was Daniel Gurney, to whom his sister, Lady

Buxton, allowed a pension of £2000 a year. This is a long story to tell

by way of introduction to one episode in _Lavengro_. Dr. Knapp places

this episode in the year 1817, when Borrow was but fourteen years of age

and Gurney was twenty-nine. I need not apologise at this point for a

very lengthy quotation from a familiar book:

At some distance from the city, behind a range of hilly ground

which rises towards the south-west, is a small river, the

waters of which, after many meanderings, eventually enter the

principal river of the district, and assist to swell the tide

which it rolls down to the ocean. It is a sweet rivulet, and

pleasant it is to trace its course from its spring-head, high

up in the remote regions of Eastern Anglia, till it arrives in

the valley behind yon rising ground; and pleasant is that

valley, truly a good spot, but most lovely where yonder bridge

crosses the little stream. Beneath its arch the waters rush

garrulously into a blue pool, and are there stilled for a time,

for the pool is deep, and they appear to have sunk to sleep.

Farther on, however, you hear their voice again, where they

ripple gaily over yon gravelly shallow. On the left the hill

slopes gently down to the margin of the stream. On the right is

a green level, a smiling meadow, grass of the richest decks the

side of the slope; mighty trees also adorn it, giant elms, the

nearest of which, when the sun is nigh its meridian, fling a

broad shadow upon the face of the pool; through yon vista you

catch a glimpse of the ancient brick of an old English hall. It

has a stately look, that old building, indistinctly seen, as it

is, among those umbrageous trees; you might almost suppose it

an earl's home; and such it was, or rather upon its site stood

an earl's home, in days of old, for there some old Kemp, some

Sigurd, or Thorkild, roaming in quest of a hearthstead, settled

down in the grey old time, when Thor and Freya were yet gods,

and Odin was a portentous name. Yon old hall is still called

the Earl's Home, though the hearth of Sigurd is now no more,

and the bones of the old Kemp, and of Sigrith his dame, have

been mouldering for a thousand years in some neighbouring

knoll; perhaps yonder, where those tall Norwegian pines shoot

up so boldly into the air. It is said that the old earl's

galley was once moored where is now that blue pool, for the

waters of that valley were not always sweet; yon valley was

once an arm of the sea, a salt lagoon, to which the war-barks

of 'Sigurd, in search of a home,' found their way.

I was in the habit of spending many an hour on the banks of

that rivulet with my rod in my hand, and, when tired with

angling, would stretch myself on the grass, and gaze upon the

waters as they glided past, and not unfrequently, divesting

myself of my dress, I would plunge into the deep pool which I

have already mentioned, for I had long since learned to swim.

And it came to pass, that on one hot summer's day, after

bathing in the pool, I passed along the meadow till I came to a

shallow part, and, wading over to the opposite side, I adjusted

my dress, and commenced fishing in another pool, beside which

was a small clump of hazels.

And there I sat upon the bank, at the bottom of the hill which

slopes down from 'the Earl's Home'; my float was on the waters,

and my back was towards the old hall. I drew up many fish,

small and great, which I took from off the hook mechanically,

and flung upon the bank, for I was almost unconscious of what I

was about, for my mind was not with my fish. I was thinking of

my earlier years--of the Scottish crags and the heaths of

Ireland--and sometimes my mind would dwell on my studies--on

the sonorous stanzas of Dante, rising and falling like the

waves of the sea--or would strive to remember a couplet or two

of poor Monsieur Boileau.

'Canst thou answer to thy conscience for pulling all those fish

out of the water and leaving them to gasp in the sun?' said a

voice, clear and sonorous as a bell.

I started, and looked round. Close behind me stood the tall

figure of a man, dressed in raiment of quaint and singular

fashion, but of goodly materials. He was in the prime and

vigour of manhood; his features handsome and noble, but full of

calmness and benevolence; at least I thought so, though they

were somewhat shaded by a hat of finest beaver, with broad

drooping eaves.

'Surely that is a very cruel diversion in which thou indulgest,

my young friend?' he continued.

'I am sorry for it, if it be, sir,' said I, rising; 'but I do

not think it cruel to fish.'

'What are thy reasons for thinking so?'

'Fishing is mentioned frequently in Scripture. Simon Peter was

a fisherman.'

'True; and Andrew his brother. But thou forgettest; they did

not follow fishing as a diversion, as I fear thou doest.--Thou

readest the Scriptures?'

'Sometimes.'

'Sometimes?--not daily?--that is to be regretted. What

profession dost thou make?--I mean to what religious

denomination dost thou belong, my young friend?'

'Church.'

'It is a very good profession--there is much of Scripture

contained in its liturgy. Dost thou read aught beside the

Scriptures?'

'Sometimes.'

'What dost thou read besides?'

'Greek, and Dante.'

'Indeed! then thou hast the advantage over myself; I can only

read the former. Well, I am rejoiced to find that thou hast

other pursuits beside thy fishing. Dost thou know Hebrew?'

'No.'

'Thou shouldest study it. Why dost thou not undertake the

study?'

'I have no books.'

'I will lend thee books, if thou wish to undertake the study. I

live yonder at the hall, as perhaps thou knowest. I have a

library there, in which are many curious books, both in Greek

and Hebrew, which I will show to thee, whenever thou mayest

find it convenient to come and see me. Farewell! I am glad to

find that thou hast pursuits more satisfactory than thy cruel

fishing.'

And the man of peace departed, and left me on the bank of the

stream. Whether from the effect of his words or from want of

inclination to the sport, I know not, but from that day I

became less and less a practitioner of that 'cruel fishing.' I

rarely flung line and angle into the water, but I not

unfrequently wandered by the banks of the pleasant rivulet. It

seems singular to me, on reflection, that I never availed

myself of his kind invitation. I say singular, for the

extraordinary, under whatever form, had long had no slight

interest for me: and I had discernment enough to perceive that

yon was no common man. Yet I went not near him, certainly not

from bashfulness, or timidity, feelings to which I had long

been an entire stranger. Am I to regret this? perhaps, for I

might have learned both wisdom and righteousness from those

calm, quiet lips, and my after-course might have been widely

different. As it was, I fell in with other queer companions,

from whom I received widely different impressions than those I

might have derived from him. When many years had rolled on,

long after I had attained manhood, and had seen and suffered

much, and when our first interview had long been effaced from

the mind of the man of peace, I visited him in his venerable

hall, and partook of the hospitality of his hearth. And there

I saw his gentle partner and his fair children, and on the

morrow he showed me the books of which he had spoken years

before by the side of the stream. In the low quiet chamber,

whose one window, shaded by a gigantic elm, looks down the

slope towards the pleasant stream, he took from the shelf his

learned books, Zohar and Mishna, Toldoth Jesu and Abarbenel.

'I am fond of these studies,' said he, 'which, perhaps, is not

to be wondered at, seeing that our people have been compared to

the Jews. In one respect I confess we are similar to them: we

are fond of getting money. I do not like this last author, this

Abarbenel, the worse for having been a money-changer. I am a

banker myself, as thou knowest.'

And would there were many like him, amidst the money-changers

of princes! The hall of many an earl lacks the bounty, the

palace of many a prelate the piety and learning, which adorn

the quiet Quaker's home!

It is doubtful if Borrow met Joseph John Gurney more than on the one

further occasion to which he refers above. At the commencement of his

engagement with the Bible Society he writes to its secretary, Mr. Jowett

(March 18, 1833), to say that he must procure from Mr. Cunningham 'a

letter of introduction from him to John Gurney,' and this second and

last interview must have taken place at Earlham before his departure for

Russia.

But if Borrow was to come very little under the influence of Joseph John

Gurney, his destiny was to be considerably moulded by the action of

Gurney's brother-in-law, Cunningham, who first put him in touch with the

Bible Society. Joseph John Gurney and his sisters were the very life of

the Bible Society in those years.

FOOTNOTES:

[34] See _The Gurneys of Earlham_ by Augustus J. C. Hare, 2 vols., 1895;

_Memoirs of Joseph Gurney; with Selections from his Journal and

Correspondence_, edited by Joseph Bevan Braithwaite, 2 vols., 1834.

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