CYPRIAN WOODS AND FORESTS.
Cyprus, of late years, has been gradually sinking to decay through the
supine indolence and indifference of her degraded population. In no
particular does the whole surface of the country suffer so severely
as in the utter devastation of her mountain forests. All the former
rulers of this beautiful island, Greeks, Persians, Egyptians, Romans,
Arabs, and Byzantines gave particular attention to the cultivation of
the fine trees that contributed so largely to her prosperity. Oaks,
firs, fig-trees, and nut-trees covered the entire island, even to the
sea-shore. During the two first centuries of the Lusignan dynasty
the first formidable attack was made upon the luxuriance of Cyprian
forests, and timber was employed in enormous quantities for the
building of merchant vessels, and the construction of the fine fleets
that Cyprus sent forth to the coasts of Asia Minor, Syria, and Egypt.
Then came the Venetians, equally bent on shipbuilding, but their
prudent foresight forbade them to hew down without planting again,
and under their rule the forests flourished almost as luxuriantly as
ever. A very different state of things arose under the improvidence
and carelessness of Turkish rule. If a hundred trunks were wanted, a
thousand were hewn down, it being easier to select the finest trees as
they lay upon the ground than when towering among their companions. The
best were taken and the rest left to rot where they had fallen. Every
maritime disaster entailed fresh destruction to the Cyprian forests.
Pachas, kaimakams, and agas, year by year increased their revenues
by cutting down the trees, and leaving what they could not sell, to
be appropriated by whoever chose to take them. The fine forests were
under no protection from Government, and the poorer classes drew a
considerable part of their livelihood from the sale of the trees they
cut down. Mehemet Ali, the first Viceroy of Egypt, gave the finishing
stroke to this work of folly by permitting, or rather encouraging, any
one who chose, to fell the trees and send them to Egypt to assist in
the construction of ships, water-wheels, and canals.
All over the island this wanton destruction of their trees by the
Cypriotes is observable. Every village or occupied spot is remarkable
for the spoliation of its surrounding timber; small trees are cut
down at the roots, whilst the giants of the forest, whose huge trunks
could only be overthrown by patience and exertion, have had all their
branches and bark lopped off and hacked away.
Another powerful cause of destruction is to be traced to the constant
occurrence of fires in the woods and forests. These arise principally
from the carelessness of the wandering shepherds and their families,
who kindle a blaze without the slightest attempt to avoid the
destruction that so frequently ensues. During the course of our ride
I have often passed several of these charred and blackened districts,
where it was quite evident the progress of the fire had only been
arrested by there being no more trees or shrubs to devour. When the
value of this rich source of wealth to the island is again appreciated
a very short space of time will be required before the forests are
again flourishing in all their former beauty. The fertility of Cyprus
is truly marvellous, and should a tract of country be left unravaged
for three years, trees of every variety will again rear their heads.
Even on the most arid part of the mountains, I frequently observed
a fine growth of young firs and pines; these, however, would not be
allowed to reach maturity, for what the hand of man does not sweep away
is destroyed by the sheep and goats as they wander unrestrained about
the hills.
Forests of dark pines were once numerous upon the higher ranges of
mountains, but these have also fallen victims to the recklessness
of the islanders. Resin and pitch are marketable articles, and to
obtain these the trees have been mercilessly destroyed. Operations are
commenced by stripping off the bark on one side, the finest trees being
always selected, as high as the man can reach, and the resin taken.
Fire is then applied to the base of the trunk, and a few hours suffice
to lay it low. The branches are then lopped off, and, with portions
of the trunk, are heaped into a roughly constructed oven formed of
quarried stone. Fire is then applied to the wood and the resin pours
forth into a little channel cut to receive it. The first-fruits of this
process is called kolophonium, and the second resin, whilst the last
result forms a kind of tar. Half the resin is, of course, wasted in
this rough process, and when the devastators have taken of the best the
hill-side affords, they climb down to another green and luxuriant spot,
there to recommence their work of destruction. A sort of mania for this
wanton mischief seems, actually, to possess, the Cypriotes. Quarrels
are of constant occurrence between the inhabitants of different
villages and communities, and no better way to avenge themselves
occurs to the contending parties, than to burn down and hack each
others trees under the concealment of night. To burn down a fine tree,
merely for the pleasure of seeing and hearing it crackle and blaze,
is an amusement constantly practised by the ignorant and unreflecting
shepherds as they lounge away their day upon the mountain side. I made
many attempts to open the eyes of the people to the utter folly of such
a course of action, and was generally met with the answer that it was
done by the wish of the Turkish Government. The Cypriotes have become
so accustomed to attribute every evil of their lives to this source,
that they actually appear to consider their late rulers responsible for
their own reckless indolence.
In order to restore the forests of Cyprus to their pristine luxuriance
only one course can be adopted: All woods and forests must be put
under the immediate protection of Government, and every act of
wanton destruction made punishable. The present trade in resin must
be entirely put down, or only permitted under heavy restrictions.
Should this course be pursued under British rule many districts will
rapidly prove its wisdom. Whole tracts of country, I fear, must be
entirely replanted. The land around the villages should be allotted
to the inhabitants, and boundary lines permanently fixed. A little
encouragement from their priests and schoolmasters would induce the
vain and envious Cypriotes to vie with each other in the cultivation
of their new possessions. I had a long and interesting conversation
on this subject with the late governor of Cyprus, a most enlightened
and high-minded gentleman. His opinions on this point were not less
decided than my own as to the imperative necessity of replanting and
cultivating the Cyprian woods and forests, if the island is ever again
to rise from her present degraded condition. If this is not done,
rivers and streamlets will year by year dwindle away, and waste ground
entirely take the place of what were once well-watered plains. The
pacha strongly urged the desirability of introducing the eucalyptus
upon all the plains and the table rocks before alluded to. I inquired
if this was likely to be done, but my only answer was a deep sigh.