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CYPRUS,
HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.
[Illustration:
MAP OF
CYPRUS
1878.
London: Wᵐ. H. Allen & Co.
_Stanford’s Geog.ˡ Estab.ᵗ London_]
CYPRUS,
HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.
ADAPTED FROM THE GERMAN
OF
FRANZ VON LÖHER.
WITH
MUCH ADDITIONAL MATTER
BY
MRS. A. BATSON JOYNER.
AND TWO MAPS.
LONDON:
W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13, WATERLOO PLACE.
Publishers to the India Office.
1878.
INTRODUCTION.
The sudden interest created by recent political events in everything
relating to Cyprus, an island which, from its geographical position,
seems destined to play no unimportant part in modern history, has
rendered the appearance of Herr von Löher’s narrative of his recent
journeyings through the length and breadth of that country extremely
welcome. It is therefore with much pleasure we have received permission
from the Author to lay before the British Public an adaptation of his
book (only published during the last few days) which seems well suited
to supply information, such as is at present much needed in England.
The island of Cyprus from the first dawn of civilisation has been
classic ground, extremely interesting to antiquaries, and its history
throughout the Middle Ages is largely blended with tales of chivalry
and romantic incidents, such as in these matter-of-fact times are
scarcely cared for by speculators, whose object is to obtain reliable
information on subjects of more practical importance, such as the
resources of the country, the character of its soil, the capabilities
of its surface, and the industry of its inhabitants. Lessons upon these
points are only to be learned from a careful survey, such as that
accomplished by our author, who, uninfluenced by prejudice, describes
in simple narrative the actual condition of the island, the scenery of
the interior, and the everyday employments and pursuits of the people,
thus removing many erroneous impressions as to the condition of the
Cypriotes, and leaving the reader to form his own opinion as to the
status and prospects of our new acquisition. All information connected
with these points we have carefully rendered, only omitting such matter
as appeared irrelevant, and calculated unnecessarily to increase the
size of the book. Additional information gleaned from various sources,
relative to the general history and statistics of the island, is to be
found in the Appendix.
That the climate of Cyprus is delightful, the soil prolific, and the
landscape in some parts of the country of surpassing beauty, we have
abundant testimony in the writings of classic authors, and there is
no reason to suppose that in these respects its attractions have
deteriorated. A late writer, J. Jasinides, who died at a good old age
at Koutzovendi, in Cyprus, in 1871, at the conclusion of his work
“Les Iles Mediterranée,” thus expresses himself: “For forty years I
have been wandering from isle to isle, ascertaining their political,
commercial, and social aspect, and this island (Cyprus) notwithstanding
the barbarism of its present rulers, through which it is cut off
from the rest of the world, is my favourite.... It is a little world
in itself; here do I wish to die. My limited means will keep me in
comparative luxury. Although old, I am strong and feel young, no wild
beasts or reptiles disturb my solitude, the water is sweet and cool,
the wine is nectar, and the food plain but good; above all I know that
my grave will be respected, and that kind hands will close my eyes.”
M. A. J.
London, 1878.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
LARNAKA.
PAGE
First View of Larnaka—Arrival—The Haven—The
Town—Catholic Church—Fine Carving—Kissing
Relics—Marble Sarcophagi—Tombs—Derivation of Name of
Larnaka—Phœnicians—Kiti—Language—Shallow Harbour—An ancient
Graveyard—Relics—Nursing Bottles—Schools—Church of St. Lazarus—A
Compromise in Ecclesiastic Architecture—St. Lazarus’s Morning
Walk—Ride out to curious Building—Strange Doors—Phaneromene
Panagia—Female Superstitions—Salt Lake—Marshes Source of
Ill-health 1
CHAPTER II.
ATHIENU.
Streets of Larnaka—Game Birds—Mountain of Olympus—Negro
Slaves—Natives of Athienu—Attack on Famagusta—Repulse
of the Turks—Six Months’ Siege—Honourable Terms—Meeting
of rival Generals—Treachery of Mustapha—Butchery of
the Garrison—Bragadino flayed alive—Triumphant Return
of Mustapha—Dinner with an Athenitan—Dali—Two largest
Rivers—Neglected Land—Character of a Cypriote—Silkworms—Planting
of Mulberry Trees—Silk Factories—Forests—Carob-tree—Cyprus a
miniature India—Fruits—Sugar—Cotton—The Garden of the World—A
Guard of Honour—First View of the Capital—Lepers—Visit to the
Governor 9
CHAPTER III.
NIKOSIA.
Morning Impressions—Easter Eve—Gardens of Fruit
Trees—Society—Costume of the Ladies—Beauties of Cyprus—Adoption
of Turkish Customs—Language—Cathedral of St. Sophia—Church of
St. Nicholas—Archbishop’s Chapel—Visit to the Lord Archbishop—A
Rising Man—Greek Priests—Church of St. Katherine—Memorials of
the Dead—St. Paul in Cyprus—Elymas, the Sorcerer—Prisons—Court
of Justice—Wanton Destruction—Wealthy Nobles—Enormous
Establishments—Great Riches of Merchants 21
CHAPTER IV.
CYPRUS IN THE MIDDLE AGES.
A German Kingdom—Richard Cœur de Lion—Cyprus sold to
Lusignan—Knights Templars—Amalrick—Becomes a Vassal to Henry
the Sixth of Germany—From A.D. 1285 to A.D. 1373—Conquest of
Smyrna and Alexandria—Commerce—Wealth and Luxury—Death of
James the Second—Origin of Italian Title of Kings of Cyprus
and Jerusalem—Turks—Erection of Fortifications—Selim the
Second—Attack on Limasol—Arsenal at Venice burnt—Nikosia
besieged—Heroic Defence—Spoil and Captives—Result of
Intemperance 33
CHAPTER V.
DRAWING UP OF THE STATUTES.
Social Positions of the various Classes—Vassalage—Form of
Government—Marriage of Lady Vassals—Law Courts—Assizes of
Jerusalem—Custody of the Book of the Law—John d’Ibelin—Knightly
Law-Makers—Philip of Navarre—Grand Statute Book of Cyprus 42
CHAPTER VI.
SAN CHRISOSTOMO.
Cyprus, European or Asian?—Buffavento—Excursion to inspect
Buffavento—Carrying Fire-arms prohibited—A quiet Morning Ride—An
old Turk and his Wives—The Northern Range of Mountains—St.
Chrisostomo—Monastic Economy—Maria of Molino—Precautions against
Fever—Easter Decorations—A Remedy for Leprosy—Fortresses erected
to command Passes and Roads—Spirit haunted—Unger and Kotschy 47
CHAPTER VII
BUFFAVENTO.
Bee-hives—The Queen’s Castle—Paradise—Take a Guide—Gradual
Ruin—En Avant—The Guides suspect Treasure Hunting—The
Fortress—Zaptiehs and their Masters—Plucky Guide—The Highest
Tower—View from the Summit—A German Female Recluse—Peculiar
People in Carpasia—The Descent—Fortresses destroyed by
Venetians—Sale of Crown Lands—Decline of Old Nobility 54
CHAPTER VIII
TURKISH GOVERNORS.
Visit from the Pacha—One Hundred Years Ago—How Governors
feathered their Nests—Poll-tax—Expostulation—Report to
the Sultan—Arrival of the Imperial Envoy—Public Reading
of the Sultan’s Commands—Fall of the Floor of the State
Chamber—Explanation of the Trap—The Governor will not be
governed—Attacked by the Populace—Death of the Governor—A
New Governor—Intrigues and another Poll-tax—Popular
Refusal—Preparations for Rebellion—The Water cut off—The
Edict withdrawn—Again a Poll-tax—The Nobles head the
Insurrection—Blockade of Nikosia—Again the Tax withdrawn—Arrival
of a New Governor—Disappointed Hopes—Proposals—Order again
restored—The Poll-tax again demanded—General Revolt—Attack
on Famagusta—Siege of Nikosia—Eastern Wiles—Mediation by
English Consul—Fighting continued—Arrival of Corsairs—A strong
Argument—Arrival of Special Envoy to compel Order—Deserters
from the Rebel Camp—Rebels retire to Keryneia—The Castle
besieged—An Open-hearted Turkish Sailor!—Betrayal of Halil
Aga—Capitulation—Smiles—Treacherous Execution—Two Hundred salted
Heads—Order restored 62
CHAPTER IX.
THE PLAINS OF CYPRUS.
Expedition to ascend Olympus—No Information to be
obtained—Neglected Districts—Game—Prompt Action
of my Zaptieh—Faithful obedience of Mussulman
Servants—Akazi—Easter—Fasting extraordinary—Abstinence of the
Greeks—Heat 77
CHAPTER X.
EVRYCHU.
Cool Waters—Evrychu—In Church—Healthy Population—Graceful and
interesting Customs—Greek Houses—Our Host and his Family—An
Easter Dinner—Classic Christian Names—Absence of large
Trees—Cypriote Clergy 83
CHAPTER XI.
MOUNT OLYMPUS.
A Mountain Pass—Lost our Way—Heroism of the Dragoman!—Sight of
a Glacier—Absence of Large Timber at Base of Mountain—Dragoman
again! who fairly bolts—Horses and Zaptieh left behind—Heavy
Work in the Snow—Scene from the Summit—Alone!—No Trace of Ruins
90
CHAPTER XII.
CYPRUS IN ANCIENT TIMES.
Descent of Olympus—A Retrospect—The busy Phœnicians—Shipbuilders
for the Euphrates—The Goddess Astarte—The New Religion—Trojan
War, the first Struggle between East and West—Grecian Warrior
Colonists—Evidence of Ancient Inscriptions—The Nine Kingdoms
of Cyprus—Attacks by Continental Nations—Cyprus appealed to
for Assistance—The Cyprian Navy—Philip of Macedon—Alexander
the Great—Cyprian Shipwrights on the Indus—Artisans of
Cyprus—Ptolemies—An Egyptian Ruler—Cyprus a Roman Province—Under
Roman Dominion—Aphroditissa—The Idol Stone—Little Images of the
Madonna—Revolution of the Jews—Great Slaughter—A Land of Saints
97
CHAPTER XIII.
TROADITISSA.
Dangerous Ground—Disappointment—Easter-Eve Festivities—An
Official Menace—Hear of a Gentleman—Demons and
Kobolds—Fini—Arrival—Stable Accommodation—The Dragoman
again—Hunger—Cloister Rations—Wine makes the Heart Glad—A
Village Congregation—After Mass—Hospitality of the
Church—Beautiful Girls—Doctors required—Fasting—Precious
Relic—Russian Gift—The Picture endowed with Healing
Powers—Gratitude—Mountains and Trees—Heat—Shepherds 112
CHAPTER XIV.
CYPRIAN WOODS AND FORESTS.
Neglect of Forests—Preservation by former Rulers—Gradual
Destruction—Shipbuilding—Exportation of Timber—Wanton
Destruction—Forest Fires—Resin and Pitch—Process of
extracting Resin—Suicidal Revenge—Protection required—British
Legislation—The late Governor of Cyprus—Sad Prospect for the
Island—Eucalyptus 121
CHAPTER XV.
PLAGUES OF LOCUSTS.
Locusts in olden Times—An Egyptian Plague for Two Years—Gradual
Increase—Young Locusts—Devastation—Energy of Turkish
Pacha—Troops are called out—A Remedy is found—M. Mattei—The
Locusts effectually stopped 127
CHAPTER XVI.
CHRYSOROGIATISSA.
Rivers of Southern Cyprus—Rippling Waters—View of the Monastery
of Kikku—A valuable Picture—Panagia—Wild Fruits—The Monks
disturbed—Fine Figure of the Saviour—Carvings—Breakfast with
the Abbot—Deserted State of the Country—Robbers—Alarm of
the Servants—Prisons—Execution of Criminals—An interesting
Prisoner—A Cypriote Robin Hood—Dowries to a Thousand
Girls—A romantic Thief—Prison Life—Stalwart Monks—Turkish
Women—Miserable Huts—Approach to Paphos—Ktima—Advent of Venus 130
CHAPTER XVII.
THE TEMPLE OF VENUS.
Bishop of Baffo—View of the Ruins—Gigantic
Stones—Old Temple—Curious Holes in Stones, producing
Echo—Mosaics—Sacrificial Rites—The Idol Stone—Ruins of
former City—View from the Temple—An Admirer of Sappho—A
Turkish Farmer—Queen’s Cave—An inscribed Stone Slab—Rock-cut
Tombs—Watch-tower—Dinner: Bill-of-Fare—A Turkish
Housewife—Nocturnal Reflections—Worship of Venus—Holy Cloth for
the Caaba—The Cone-shaped Stones—Doves of Venus—Meteoric Stones
139
CHAPTER XVIII.
SUMMER RESIDENCE IN CYPRUS.
Donkeys and Mules—Muleteers—Starting on a
Journey—Mounted!—Commissariat of Travelling Cypriote—General
Cesnola—Village of Dali—Out-door Nights in Summer—A delightful
Retreat 149
CHAPTER XIX.
CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.
Family Affection—Female Influence—Modern Greeks—Bad
Qualities—Simony—Flatterers—Luxury—Taking his Ease—Shameful
Effeminacy 155
CHAPTER XX.
CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE.
Syrian Heat—Cool Mountain Breezes—Fevers—Wine,
a Remedy for Ague—Seasons—Excessive Heat—Hot
Winds—Scarcity—Spring—September—L’Imbat—Snow 161
CHAPTER XXI.
BAPPO AND KURLIA.
Dealer in Curiosities—Ktima—Rock-cut Tombs—Palæo
Castro—Graves—Antiquities—Ossuaries—Relics of Funeral
Feasts—Ruins of a Temple—St. Paul—Koloni—Asbestos—Sacred
Garden—Bath of Aphrodite—Ieroskipo—Kapatah—Ancient
Harbour—Ruins of Churches—Buried Treasures—A Cyprian
Dinner—Tombs—Arsinœ—Loadstone Temple—Berenice—Treasures for
Naturalists—Tax-gatherers 167
CHAPTER XXII.
EPISKOPI.
Coffee-house—Thistle Seeds—Snake—Game—Adimu—Apollo Hylades Guard
Houses—Pirates—Lycos—Egyptian Beauties—No Accommodation 179
CHAPTER XXIII.
KOLOSSIN.
A Turkish Farmer—Square Tower—Oxen—Norman Architecture—An old
Fortress—Knights Templars—Wine—Beccaficos 184
CHAPTER XXIV.
SOIL AND MINERAL PRODUCTS.
Mountains—Rich Soil—Alluvial Deposits—Gardens—Cooper
Mines—Gold and Silver—Salt—Volcanic Eruptions—Precious
Stones—Amber—Asbestos—Robes of the Priests 191
CHAPTER XXV.
NATURAL PRODUCTS.
Under the Lusignans—Wine, Oil, &c.—Carob-tree—Cyprian
Dyes—Grasping Policy of Venice—Olive-trees—Government
of Cyprus—A valuable Farm—Sultan of
Egypt—Tribute—Turks—Flowers—Tobacco—Corn—Timber—Flowers—Fertility
of Soil—Jujube-tree—Distilled
Oils—Cotton—Silk—Game—Wine—Taxes—Decline of Cultivation—Poor
fare—Potatoes—Spiders—Beef and Mutton 194
CHAPTER XXVI.
ST. NICHOLAS AND LIMASOL.
News of Marble Relics—Off to search—Heavy Weather—Church of St.
Nicholas—Ancient Temple—Monastery Garden—Salt Marsh—Building
Houses—Turkish Women, Coquetry—Franciscan Convent—Monastic
Graveyard—A new Church—A smart Man—Manufacture of Antiquities—A
Parade round the Town—Hospitable Priests—Schools—Domestic
Economy of Cyprian Family—A Cyprian Lady—Chinese
Nobility—Prospects of Trade—Population—Revenue—Bribery 202
CHAPTER XXVII.
AMATHUS.
A Morning Ride—A sudden Change—The devouring
Lion—Heat—Favoured Tracts—Site of Amathus—Export of
Stone—A natural Fortress—Hamath—French Antiquarians—A
precious Relic—Vandalism by French Officers—Gigantic
Vases—Adonis—Anemones—Feasts—Pygmalion—Paphos, Son
of Pygmalion—Under the Ptolemies—Remains of the
City—Excavations—Amathus, the City—Mania for Destruction—Capo
delle Gatte—Cats 211
CHAPTER XXVIII.
KARUBIEH AND MAZOTOS.
Cape Karubieh—Deserted Village—Fruit Ships—Fruit—Carob-trees—A
Cyprian Farm-house—Our worthy hostess—Light soil—Farm
Labourers—Cost of living—Priests—Hospitality—Kiti—Mount of the
Holy Cross—St. Helena—Sacred Relic—Game—Wine 220
CHAPTER XXIX.
LAST DAYS OF LARNAKA.
Dancing Girls—Aphrodite—St. George the Martyr—Patron
Saint of England—Legend of St. George—Tenets of the Greek
Church—Clergy—Churches—Servia—Panagia—Sunday Trading—Handsome
Girls—Cypriote Husbands—Turkish Houses—Departure from the Island 226
CHAPTER XXX.
EFFORTS OF THE GERMANS TO OBTAIN CYPRUS
Frederick the Second—An imperial Marriage—Cyprian
Opinions—Barons—Knights—Importance of Cyprus as a Military
Position—Regency—Quarrels—Promises of Amendment—Form
of Government—Departure of the Emperor—The Emperor
denounced—Sedition—Terms of Peace—The Emperor is crowned—State
of Cyprus—Civil Wars—Rebellion—The Verse-maker—Success of Ibelin 234
CHAPTER XXXI.
MARSHAL FELINGHER.
Cyprus lost—A Fleet sent—Ibelin at Beyrut—Internal
Disaffection—Defeat of Ibelin—Strenuous Efforts to
raise Money—Bank Notes—The Genoese Rise—Defeat of the
Imperialists—Death of Queen Alice—Peaceful Proposals—Renewed
Hostilities—Papal Interference—The last of German Influence 256
CHAPTER XXXII.
CYPRUS AND THE EUPHRATES VALLEY RAILWAY.
The Projected Railway—Cyprus a Terminal Station—Sir F.
Goldsmid—Position of Cyprus—Ports—Commerce—Harbours—Different
Routes for Line—Mr. W.P. Andrew—Political Importance of
Line—Fertility of adjacent Country—Re-opening a neglected
Country—India nearer Home 269
APPENDIX. 283
[Illustration: A MAP SHOWING THE RELATION OF CYPRUS TO THE ADJACENT
COASTS.]
CYPRUS,
HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.
CHAPTER I.
LARNAKA.
The first approach to Larnaka, the chief sea-port of Cyprus, is well
calculated to impress the traveller. The boundless expanse of blue
sky and sea, the bold outline of the hills and mountains, brought out
as they are into sharp relief by the clearness and brilliancy of the
atmosphere, seem to throw the works of man far into the background and
boldly assert the simple grandeur of nature.
Such were my involuntary reflections as we dropped anchor in the
roads of Larnaka on April 21st, 1877. This entrance to the island
displays an expansive bay, the yellow sands of which are bordered by
an extensive plain, broken by bare and rocky hills, and in the blue
distance backed by a chain of mountains. A landscape was before me,
in which the towns, gardens, and buildings constituted only minor
accessories. Larnaka appeared as a mere speck on the bosom of the open
country. The haven contains about fifty houses, built in the centre
of the curve of the bay, and above them wave the variegated flags of
the different consulates, surmounted by pointed minarets and a new
belfry. The town of Larnaka itself lies far behind, and is separated
by wide fields from the haven. Thanks to the kindness of the German
consul, a friendly welcome awaited me at the landing-place, where
I found a dragoman ready to conduct me to my destination. Before
leaving the haven, however, I inspected its streets, which presented
an animated appearance. Artisans plied their trades in all directions,
and dirt reigned supreme. The rows of houses interspersed with stately
mansions, churches, and gardens, filled with waving palms, constitute
its principal attractions; all else is strictly Oriental, namely, its
filth, rags, and miserable huts of wood and clay.
In the Catholic church, we found a solitary monk, who showed us
some fine carvings. The pictures upon the partition which separates
the altar from the rest of the church are diligently kissed by the
worshippers. I could not but approve this custom, if only from the fact
that a law of the church required that no one should salute the sacred
pictures without previously washing his face. This ceremony takes place
once a week, so that, happily, the gold and silver covered panels
are not distinguished by a black circle in the spots where they are
kissed. With the exception of an occasional block of marble built into
the walls of a house, or a sarcophagus, utilised as a receptacle for
water, I saw nothing to recall the ancient power of the busy crowds
that once animated this spot. Their tombs, excavated in the stratum
of chalk, which lies below the surface, were once filled with marble
sarcophagi, which century by century have been dragged out and employed
for building purposes. Hence the revolting name given to this town, for
Larnaka, literally interpreted, means simply a coffin. Others, however,
assert that the name is derived from the fact that the houses were
built upon the site of an ancient graveyard.
The Phœnicians are believed to have first founded a town here and
called it Kiti; by the Greeks it was known as Kition, and from
this source was derived the Asiatic designation of Kitier, for the
inhabitants of Cyprus. At a later date Grecian settlers took possession
of it; artists, weavers, and artisans in large numbers poured in, and
dwelt side by side with the Syrians, but occupying their own part of
the town, gradually introducing their own language to common use as in
Antioch and Alexandria, and giving a Grecian tone to the education of
the higher classes. The Latin tongue, on the contrary, seems never to
have gained a footing in the East. Cyprus, however, formed an exception
to this rule, and during the four centuries that the island was subject
to the sway of the Lusignan dynasty, and Venetian rule, Latin was in
general use. Not a trace of it, however, now remains. Modern Greek is
spoken, even in most of the Turkish houses, and is understood in every
part of the country. The consulate body in Larnaka has representatives
from every state in Europe. Its haven is the best in the island,
although on account of the shallowness of the water, vessels are
compelled to steer clear of the sand and ride at some distance from the
town.
The whole of this interesting island may be regarded as one huge
graveyard, the treasures of which are disclosed at every turn of
the spade. In Idalion, the Greeks, it appears, had formerly made
their graves three feet below the surface, and, probably unknown to
themselves, only some three or four feet above those occupied by the
Phœnician colonists. In these graves, now filled up by the drifting
earth of successive centuries, are found embedded small earthen
articles, trinkets, coins, and a great variety of interesting trifles.
Amongst other articles shown me, were elegant little figures, sucking
bottles for children, and every variety of vases and cups in clay and
glass.[1] What struck me most, however, were some delicate gold chains
and ear-rings, and some yellowish blue vases of Phœnician glass.
Towards evening I visited the chief part of the town, which is about
a quarter of an hour’s walk from the haven, and called upon the
bishop. Here I learnt many interesting facts concerning the recent
improvements made in means of popular education. Until thirty years
ago, schools were strictly prohibited, whereas now, every town has its
training school; whilst in three of the chief towns, Larnaka, Nikosia,
and Limasol, these are of three grades, and in them are taught history,
geography, and Grecian literature, even to the reading of Homer and
Xenophon. The prices for these classes are from 100 to 300 marks.
Anything over and above this charge is covered by the bishop, and a
toll upon the exports and imports of the towns.
I then visited the church of St. Lazarus, which is surrounded by fine
rows of pillars, with pointed arches, which give an impressive and
sacred aspect to the building. The main part of the church is built
in the form of a cross, with a dome in the centre, and is evidently
of great antiquity. The building comprises three long large vaults,
surmounted by three small cupolas. It seems that the Pacha Kudschuk
Mehemed commanded the demolition of these domes, on the ground that
only a mosque should be so adorned, but after long and earnest
entreaties, at last yielded so far as to consent to their being only
half torn down, and the openings filled up with planks. They were
afterwards restored, and fifteen years ago, a handsome clock tower was
erected, surmounted by the Russian double eagle.
When I issued from the church, evening had closed in, and the priests,
robed in black, with lights in their hands, lent an air of solemn
mystery to this fine building. St. Lazarus is supposed to have died
in Cyprus, and his marble coffin, adorned with one rose, stands in
a narrow recess. The tomb is empty; the bones, in all probability,
having been taken possession of by the Venetians as sacred relics. Next
morning I wandered out to explore the environs of the town. The air
was spring-like and balmy, flowers, amongst which I observed tulips
and hyacinths, enlivened the ground, and the blue waves danced in the
light of the sun. Waving palms and high hedges of Indian cactus, hid
the haven from my sight, and lent an air of solitude and repose to the
whole scene, whilst as far as the eye could reach, the fields were
filled with fruit trees, and the landscape enlivened by flocks of goats
and sheep. The whole scene formed an Oriental picture of great beauty,
and I could not help exclaiming to myself, “If this is the worst part
of the country what a paradise the interior must be!”
In the evening, having obtained the loan of a fine Arab horse, I rode
off to investigate a curious building, at no great distance from the
town. This remarkable structure, which is half embedded in the earth
and rock, resembles a baker’s oven, and is high enough to permit a man
to stand upright within it. The sides are formed of large blocks of
stone, and the roof covered by one huge slab. This erection is divided
into three parts. A small chamber is hewn in the bare rock, which
forms a natural wall at the back of the structure. Formerly a similar
chamber opened upon the front of the large centre portion, but this
is now destroyed These apartments seem to have been closed by slabs
let down from above into grooves, which are still visible. This ruin
was probably first used by the Phœnicians as a burial-place, and at a
later date consecrated to the virgin mother Phaneromene Panagia. This
spot has a great attraction for the peasant women of the surrounding
country, who believe that its sacred walls possess a peculiar virtue
for those suffering from grievous sickness or for childless women.
These latter often make pilgrimages hither, carrying a lamp concealed
under their garments. At the entrance the lamp is kindled, and the
suppliant steps barefooted into the third chamber, where she offers her
prayers to Panagia, and leaves her lamp as a votive offering. Turkish
women, I am informed, also practise this ceremony.
At a very short distance from this interesting relic, and almost
close to the sea, lies the celebrated lake from which the Phœnicians
extracted the salt they so largely exported. Its value has in this
respect by no means deteriorated. During the winter rains it becomes
filled with brackish water, which evaporates as in a vast cauldron,
under the burning sun of July and August, and deposits a thick coat
of fine salt at its bottom. Night soon closes in in these latitudes,
and as I left the spot, the sun suddenly lit up sea, sky, and earth in
one blaze of glowing colour, and then rapidly sank to rest. Darkness
at once set in, and I rode home through a silence as complete, and a
solitude as profound, as if I were traversing the open desert.
The cause of unhealthiness in most towns in Cyprus is quite local and
easily removed. Thus round Larnaka and Famagusta are marshes which
infect the air, and are apt to induce fever and ague in summer.