CHAPTER II

THE STONES OF OXFORD

Quia lapis de pariete clamabit, et lignum,

quod inter juncturas aedificiorum est, respondebit.

Standing at Carfax, and occasionally moving a step to one side or

another, I see with my eyes, indeed, the west front of Christ Church,

with Tom Tower; the borders of All Saints’ and St. Mary’s; and that grim

tower of St. Michael’s; and the handsome curves of High Street and St.

Aldate’s, which are part of the mere good fortune of Oxford: but,

especially if a dawn light recall the first dim shining, or a sunset

recall the grey and golden splendour of its maturity, I may also see the

past of the University unrolled again. For at Carfax I am in sight of

monuments on which is implied or recorded all its history. On the south,

above Folly Bridge, is the gravelly reach that formed the eponymous

ford; between that and Christ Church was the old south gate; and,

through Wolsey’s gateway, lies the Cathedral, speaking of St.

Frideswide, the misty, original founder,--King’s daughter, virgin,

martyr, saint,--and, with its newly revealed Norman crypt, which

perhaps held the University chest in the beginning, representative of

Oxford’s piety and generosity. On the east, in the High Street,

University College and St. Mary’s and Brasenose speak clearly, although

falsely, of King Alfred. There, by St. Peter’s in the East, was the old

east gate; and in sight of these is Merton, the fount of the collegiate

idea. On the north, in Cornmarket Street, St. Michael’s marks the place

of the north gate, and while it is one of the oldest, is by far the

oldest-looking place in Oxford, rising up always to our surprise, like a

piece of substantial night left by the dark ages, yet clothed with green

in June. On the west, the Castle tower, twin made with St. Michael’s by

the first Norman lord of Oxford, lies by the old west gate; and the

quiet, monstrous mound beyond recalls the days of King Alfred’s

daughter’s supremacy in Mercia. At Carfax itself there is still a St.

Martin’s church, a descendant of the one whose bells in the Middle Ages

and again in the seventeenth century, called the city to arms against

the University, but long ago deprived of its insolent height of tower,

because the citizens pelted the scholars therefrom.

Moved by the presence of a city whose strange beauty was partly

interpreted from these vigorous hieroglyphics, mediæval and later men,

who had the advantage of living before history was invented, framed for

it a divine or immensely ancient origin. Even kings, or such as quite

certainly existed, were deemed unworthy to be the founders. We believe

now that the first mention of Oxford was as an inconsiderable

[Illustration: ST. GILES’S, LOOKING TOWARDS ST. MARY MAGDALEN (SOUTH)

Some picturesque houses on the left lead to the entrance of St. John’s

College, seen through the trees. Farther on appears the tower of the

Church of St. Mary Magdalen in Cornmarket. The mass to the extreme right

above the cab shelter is part of the west side of St. Giles’s and the

houses surrounding the Taylor Institution and new Ashmolean Museum.

The posts and rails in the foreground enclose a grassed space in front

of St. Giles’s Church.

The time is sunset in summer.]

but progressive township in the reign of Edward the Elder, Alfred’s son:

but those old lovers attributed to Alfred the restoration of a

university that was in his time old and honoured; and some said that he

endowed three doctors of grammar, arts, and theology, there; others,

less precise than those who put the foundation of Cambridge at 4317

B.C., discovered that Oxford was founded by the Trojans who (as used to

be well known) came to Britain from their burning city. But to Oxford

the Trojans brought certain Greek philosophers, and at that early date

illustrated the universal hospitality and independence of nationality

and language that were so characteristic, before the place became a

Stuart park. And as the Athenians had in their city and its attendant

landscape all those natural beauties and utilities which make possible a

peerless academy, so also had the Britons, says Anthony à Wood, herein

agreeing with Polydore Vergil, “when by a remnant of the Grecians, that

came amongst them, they or their successors selected such a place in

Britain to plant a school or schools therein, which for its pleasant

situation was afterwards called _Bellositum_ or _Bellosite_, now

Oxford.” Among these generous suppositions or dreams was the story that

Apollo, at the downfall of the Olympians, flying now to Rome and now to

Athens, found at last something congenial in the brown oak woods and

silver waters of Oxford, and a bride in the puissant nymph of Isis; on

which favoured site, as was fitting, there afterwards arose a place,

with the learning and architectural beauty of Athens, the divine

inspiration of Delphi, and the natural loveliness of Delos....

There is, said Anthony à Wood, “an old tradition that goeth from father

to son of our inhabitants, which much derogateth from the antiquity of

this city--and that is: When Frideswyde had bin soe long absent from

hence, she came from Binsey (triumphing with her virginity) into the

city mounted on a milk-white ox betokening innocency; and as she rode

along the streets, she would forsooth be still speaking to her ox, ‘Ox

forth,’ ‘Ox forth’ or (as ’tis related) ‘_bos perge_’ (that is, ‘ox goe

on,’ or ‘ox (goe on) forth’)--and hence they indiscreetly say that our

city was from thence called Oxforth or Oxford.”

But there has never been composed a quite appropriately magnificent

legend that could be received by the faithful as the canonical fiction

for Oxford, as the _Aeneid_ is for Rome; and now there can never be.

There is, however, still a pleasant haze (that might encourage a poet or

a herald) suspended over the early history of Oxford. It is unlikely

that the place was of importance in Roman times; later, its position on

a river and a boundary brought it many sufferings at the hands of Dane

and Saxon. But no one need fear to believe that, early in the eighth

century, Didan, an under king, and his daughter Frideswide established

there a nunnery and built a church of stone, now perhaps mingled with

the later masonry. It was rebuilt by Ethelred in the eleventh century

with a quite exceptional fineness in the Saxon workmanship; and was

girdled by the churches

[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH--INTERIOR OF LATIN CHAPEL

The Shrine of St. Frideswide appears in the middle of the picture,

standing in one of the eastern bays of the north wall of the choir. The

north side of the Shrine is seen, together with the ancient wooden

watching-chamber above.

A tomb shows between the column and the seventeenth-century reading-desk

at the right of the picture, also a glimpse of the choir.

The carved oak stall front immediately under the Shrine is probably of

the time of Wolsey, and part of the furniture of his choir.

To the left is the east window of the Chapel--filled with stained glass

representing scenes in the life of St. Frideswide, designed by Sir

Edward Burne-Jones, Bart., and executed by Mr. William Morris.

The two figures represent a visitor to the shrine of the saint and a

verger.]

of St. Martin, St. George, St. Mary Magdalen, St. Mary the Virgin, St.

Ebbe, St. Michael, and St. Peter in the East; and the last two, to one

who had stood at Carfax in 1100, would still be recognised, if he

visited the shadowed doorway and stern crypt of the one, and the tower

of the other, though he might look in vain for what he knew in “The

Seven Deadly Sins lane” and elsewhere.

Whatever learning then flourished in the city is now to be found in its

architecture, in Prior Philip’s book on the miracles of St. Frideswide,

and in the inestimable atmosphere of the place. We can guess that there

was much that is worthy to be known, from the eloquent monkish figures

of the corbels in Christ Church chapter-house; and can wistfully think

of the wisdom that was uttered in Beaumont, the royal palace and learned

resort, whose gardens lay at Broken Hays and near Worcester College; and

in Osney Abbey, whose bells--Hautclere, Douce, Clement, Austin, Marie,

Gabriel et John--made music that was known to the Eynsham abbot on May

evenings, when it was a rich, calm retreat, and not as now, a shadowy

outline and a sorrowful heap of stones beyond the railway station. More

than the ghost of the abbey survives in the sketch of its ruined but

still noble walls, in the background of that picture of its last abbot,

in a window of the south choir aisle at Christ Church.

Before the Conquest Oxford had been visited by parliaments and kings; it

now began to be honoured by learning and art. _Olim truncus eram....

maluit esse deum._ It had often been violated or burned; in Doomsday

Book it appears as a half desolate city, despite the churches; but it

had already begun, though again checked by fire that flew among the

wooden houses with such ghastly ease, to assume the proportions and the

grace which were fostered by William of Wykeham and a hundred of the

great unknown, and in the last few years by Aldrich and Wren and

Jones,--crowned by the munificence of Radcliffe,--illuminated with green

and white and gold and purple by the unremembered and by Reynolds,

Morris, and Burne-Jones. The Saxon work at St. Frideswide’s was

superseded or veiled by the Norman architects; the fine old pillars were

in part altered or replaced; and the relics of the Saint herself were

transferred ceremoniously and “with all the sweet odours and spices

imaginable,” to a more imposing place of rest. Upon the base of the old

fortifications probably now rose the bastions of the mediæval city wall,

once so formidable but now defensive only against time, and unable any

longer to make history, but only poetry, as they stand peacefully and

muffled with herbage in New College Gardens, or at Merton or Pembroke,

or by the churchyard of St. Peter’s in the East.

The history of that age in Oxford is indistinct, and recorded events

therein have a suddenness, for modern readers, which is vivid and

fascinating, but to the historian at least, painful and false. And so

the birth of the University, in the midst of darkness and noise, is to

us to-day a melodious sudden cry. It is as if a voice,

[Illustration: ST. PETER’S-IN-THE-EAST

To the extreme right of the picture, through a huge buttress on the

south side of the chancel, is pierced the doorway to the twelfth-century

crypt, extending some 36 feet under the chancel of the Church.

To the west of this buttress, in the angle formed by another buttress,

appear the remains of a Norman arcading, broken through for the

insertion of the early fifteenth-century window. The windows of the nave

showing in the picture are also of this date, as is the south porch.

It will be noted that this porch has a room over it--probably the

lodgings of a priest. Across the graveyard and Queen’s Lane to the west

are the buildings of Queen’s College; to the immediate left of the yew

tree in the centre of the picture shows the east end of the Chapel; more

to the north the dome of the campanile appears.

To the extreme left of the graveyard shows a portion of the ivy-covered

north wall of St. Edmund’s Hall (see other picture).]

unexpectedly arose, calling--and the words are said to have been used by

two poor Irish students in an ignorant and worldly land--“Here is wisdom

for sale! Come, buy!” We know that famous lecturers from the continental

universities came; but not with what eloquence and applause they spoke.

It may confidently be surmised that there was something sweet to learned

minds in the air or tradition of the place. The walls are fallen or

forgotten that heard the prelusive lectures of Pullein and Vacarius; and

the brilliant Franciscan house in St. Benedict’s is chiefly known by its

influence in the founding of Balliol, and by the greatest schoolmen, its

alumni. But if we go to the grey domestic little lodgings, with “arms

and rebusses that are depicted and cut in stone over each door,”

vestiges of a Benedictine scholastic house, at Worcester College, we may

fancifully pierce beyond John Giffard’s foundation and the preceding

Carmelites, to the earliest lovers of learning who loved Oxford too. At

St. Mary’s the work of the fancy is easier and more sure. There the

University books, and there a money chest, reposed. There were the

highest deliberations and ceremonies. There a man was graduated, and

from its porch he passed out a clerk of Oxford.

If the University was early associated with a place of holiness and

beauty, still more firmly was it rooted in a becoming poverty. It had

neither a roof nor a certain purse. For years it had not a name. The

University was in fact but a spirit of wisdom and grace; men had heard

of it and sought it; and where one or two were gathered together to

take advantage of it, there was her school and her only endowment. Now

and then to such a group came in a legacy of books or gold. But that was

a crop for which no one sowed, and before it was possible, it had been

rumoured that there was something in Oxford not visible, yet very

present and necessary; and scholars came with as great zeal as was ever

cherished by reports of gold. They brought what in their devotion they

came to seek. Thus Gerald of Wales came, and for three days read aloud

his glorious book to large audiences. Every day was marked by sumptuous

and generous feasts. It was, indeed, “a costly and noble act,” as he

says himself, “for the authentic and ancient times of the poets were

thus in some measure renewed.” Carmelites, Dominicans, and Franciscans,

and vivid men from the University of Paris, came to teach. Even then,

the University quarrelled with the town over the price of victuals and

rooms, and invaded the extortionate Jew. There, about the streets,

walked the magnificent Franciscans, Roger Bacon and Grosseteste, and the

pure and gracious and learned St. Thomas Cantelupe.

Early in the nineteenth century there was a Chancellor set over the

scholars by the Bishop of Lincoln, in whose diocese Oxford lay. Very

soon the Chancellor was elected by the University; and the Masters in

congregation could legislate, and sometimes did, although questions were

often effectually decided by a popular vote among the students,--who

also themselves chose by vote the heads of their hostels or halls. For

there were, at an early date, houses already associated with learning,

and governed either by a common landlord or by a scholar of some

standing and age. There a man might read, and comfort himself according

to his means, and finally at night stamp up and down a passage, to warm

his feet, before going to sleep in a crowded bed-chamber. On any day

there was a chance that some splendid man, coming a little in the rear

of his fame, would arrive in Oxford, and lecture or read a book. Should

kings, or priests, or rude citizens interfere, the scholar could

rusticate voluntarily--as he sometimes did--at Stamford, or Reading, or

Maidstone, or Cambridge, and there, as best he might, by study and

self-denial, as by a sacrament, recreate the University. The City, and

until our own time the Crown, had to pay in round sums for such an

insult as the hanging of several scholars; the money lined the bottom of

St. Frideswide’s chest. A man with no possessions but the leaf of a

manuscript, or a dagger, or a cloak, left it with the keepers of the

chest as security for a loan, whether he were Welsh, or Hungarian, or

Italian, or French.

An Englishman, William of Durham, who had enjoyed the University

hospitality at Paris, first kindled the flame which was to be kept

burning by so many afterwards, as a _focus perennis_ for the homeless

student. He left Paris after a town-and-gown quarrel, along with many

French students, whom Henry III. welcomed to Oxford in 1229. William

went to Rome, before returning to England, and remembered Oxford when he

lay dying at Rouen--perchance reminded there of the city which until

fifty years ago was equal with it in ancient beauty, and has been

clouded in the same way. He left in his will a sum of money to the

University. It was employed in making more steadfast abodes for Oxford

students; at a house, for example, that stood on the site of the

bookseller’s shop opposite University College lodge. This act is counted

the foundation of University College, with its original four masters,

who shall be thought “most fit to advance or profit in the Holy Church

and who have not to live handsomely without it in the state of Masters

of Arts.”

There had previously been similar Halls, and many were afterwards

founded,--Hawk Hall, Perilous Hall, Elm Hall, Winton Hall, Beef Hall,

Greek Hall, Segrim Hall; in fact so large a number that half the Oxford

inns are or were perversions of the old Halls; and even tradesmen who

are not innkeepers now make their rich accounts among the ghosts of

forgotten principals. These had not in them the necessary statutes and

“great bases for eternity” which a college deserves. But henceforward

there were some fortunate students who might indeed have to sing or make

Latin verses in order to earn a bed, or a crust and a pot of ale, while

making their way to or from Oxford; but, once there, they were sure of

such a home as no other place, unless, perhaps, the place of their

nativity, could give.

“It is all,” says Newman, speaking of a college, “and does all that is

implied in the name of home. Youths, who have left the maternal roof,

and travelled some hundred miles for the acquisition of knowledge, find

an

[Illustration: UNIVERSITY COLLEGE--PRIVATE GARDEN OF THE MASTER

The building to the left is the east end of the College Chapel, the

entrance tower being seen over the dividing wall almost in the centre of

the picture.

A bay window to the extreme right of the picture, looking over the

garden, is part of the Master’s Lodging.]

_altera Troja_ and _simulata Pergama_ at the end of their journey and

their place of temporary sojourn. Home is for the youth, who knows

nothing of the world, and who would be forlorn and sad, if thrown upon

it. It is the refuge of helpless boyhood, which would be famished and

pine away if it were not maintained by others. It is the providential

shelter of the weak and inexperienced who have still to learn how to

cope with the temptations which lie outside of it. It is the place of

training for those who are not only ignorant, but have not yet learned

how to learn, and who have to be taught, by careful individual trial,

how to set about profiting by the lessons of a teacher. And it is the

school of elementary studies, not of advanced; for such studies alone

can boys at best apprehend and master. Moreover, it is the shrine of our

best affections, the bosom of our fondest recollections, a spell upon

our after life, a stay for world-weary mind and soul, wherever we are

cast, till the end comes. Such are the attributes or offices of home,

and like to these in one or other sense and measure, are the attributes

and offices of a College in a University.”

In the unconscious preparation for such a place William of Durham was

the first to leave money; the founders of Balliol the first to gather a

number of scholars under one roof, with a corporate life, and as we may

assume, a set of customary, unwritten laws; but Walter de Merton was the

first to endow and provide with tenements and statutes a college, in all

important respects, like a college of to-day,--a place even at that time

standing in a genial avuncular relationship towards the students, which

was rich in influence and the making of endearing tradition. Perhaps the

Merton treasury, still conspicuous for its steep roof and burliness, was

part of the founder’s gift; and no building could have been a fitter

nest of an idea which was for so long to make little of time. The Hall

retains some features of the same date. Almost at once the chapel began

to rise, and its light was coloured by the topmost glass just as it is

to-day. In fact, Merton with its older little sister foundation of St.

Alban Hall was, until the _annus mirabilis_ of Mr. Butterfield, in

itself a symbol of the origin and growth of Oxford as a collegiate

university and as a place of beauty.

The royal Dervorguilla was the godmother of the kindly college life of

to-day. She was the wife of the founder of Balliol, and was often in

Oxford, with her honoured Franciscan, Richard of Slikeburne, to look

after her sixteen scholars at Old Balliol Hall, in Horsemonger Street,

now Broad Street. Close by, at the Church of St. Mary Magdalen, she

devised an oratory for the Balliol men. They chose their own Principal,

who presided at disputations and meals. They had breakfast and supper

together, and the more comfortable of them paid anything in excess of

their allowance which the expenses of the common table might demand. One

poor scholar lived on the crumbs. Thus were men less often compelled to

borrow from the Jews at 60 per cent on the security of their books.

While Balliol was so progressing, and University College had its

statutes, and Merton already had its Hall,

[Illustration: MERTON COLLEGE AND ST. ALBAN’S HALL

The entrance Quadrangle of the College is shown in the picture, to the

right of which is the Warden’s residence.

The building farther to the right is the Library, the steps of which

show in the immediate foreground.

St. Alban’s Hall, recently attached to Merton College, appears over the

north-east corner of the Quadrangle.]

the spire of the church of St. Mary the Virgin first rose against the

sky. Then also the ashes of St. Frideswide were promoted to a new and

more precious place of rest. The sculptor at work upon the shrine had

evidently at his side the leaves of maple and crowfoot and columbine,

ivy and sycamore and oak, hawthorn and bryony, from the neighbouring

woods, where the saint had lain in hiding or ministered to the

calamities of the poor; and perhaps the season was late autumn, for

among the oak leaves are acorns, and some of the cups are empty. All

these things he carved on the base of the shrine.

It was of this period that the story was told that two barefooted,

hungry travellers from the west were approaching Oxford, and had come in

sight of it near Cumnor, when they found a beautiful woman seated by the

wayside. So beautiful was she that they knelt at her feet, “being simple

men.” _Salve Regina!_ they cried. Then, she bending forward and

speaking, they were first surprised that she should speak to them; and

next ventured to speak to her, and ask her name. Whereat she “raised her

small golden head so that in the sun her hair seemed to flow and flow

continually down,” and looked towards Oxford. There two spires and two

towers could just be seen betwixt the oak trees. “My name,” she said,

“is known to all men save you. It is Pulchritudo. And that,” as she

pointed to the shining stones of the city, “is my home.” Those two were

silent, between amazement and joy, until one said “It is our Lady!” and

the other “Lo! it is Venus, and she sits upon many waters yonder.”

Hardly had they resumed their ordinary pace when they found an old man,

seated by the wayside, very white and yet “very pleasant and alluring to

behold.” So to him also the simple wayfarers knelt down. Then that old

man bent forward and spoke to them with golden words, and only the one

who had called the beautiful woman “Venus” dared to speak. He it was

that questioned the old man about the woman and about himself. “My name

is Sapientia,” he said, and “that is my home,” he continued, and looked

towards Oxford, where two spires and two towers could just be seen

betwixt the oak trees. “And,” he concluded solemnly, “that woman is my

mother and she grows not old.” The men went their way, one saying, “It

is a place of lies”; the other saying, “It is wonderful”; and when they

looked back the old man and the beautiful woman had vanished. In the

city they were often seen, but the two strangers could not speak with

them, “for they were greatest in the city of Oxford. Some said that he

was an Austin friar and she a light woman; but they are not to be

believed.” And when they had dwelt in Oxford a short time and had seen

“what store of pious and learned and illuminated books were in the

Halls, and what costly and fine things in its churches and Convents,”

the one said, “I believe that what Sapientia and Pulchritudo said was

the truth”; and the other said, “Truly, the city is worthy of them

both”; wherefore they dwelt there until their deaths, and found it “the

most loving and lovely city” in Christendom.

[Illustration: ORIEL COLLEGE

The Hall and Chapel stretch across the picture, in the centre of which

appears the porch. The three niches contain figures of the Virgin and

Child and Edward II. and III. under canopies.

The tower of Merton College shows above the roof of the Chapel. This,

with the louvres and ogee gables, forms a picturesque sky-line.]

Dervorguilla and Walter de Merton had thus made the University a father

and a mother to the scholar. For a time, indeed, the principals had

often to transfer their _penates_; the founder’s inheritors lived in

scattered tenements which they changed from necessity or choice, now and

then; yet they had the imperishable sentiment of home, and for some

years they had little more, except in a small degree at Merton and

Queen’s, since the colleges neither demanded nor provided that the

scholars should study according to rule.

Under Edward II. Exeter College was founded, and linked from the

beginning with the west country, by the simultaneous co-foundation of a

school, and the rule that all the scholars should thence be drawn.

Decent poverty and love of learning were the other qualifications of a

scholar. Then followed Oriel, with Edward II. as its founder, the

advowson of the Church of St. Mary the Virgin as part of its support,

and its name derived from the Hall of La Oriole, which it received

early, and soon afterwards occupied. Its library was the first college

library; but the acquirement was technically defective, and the Fellows

of Oriel could not resist the students who broke in and carried away the

books. Fellows and admirers repaired the loss.

Philippa, Queen of Edward III., was joined with her chaplain in the

foundation of Queen’s College “for the cultivation of Theology, to the

glory of God, the advance of the Church, and the salvation of souls.” A

little subtlety on the part of the founder and sentiment on the part of

the queens, enabled the college to exchange compliments with Anne of

Bohemia, Henrietta Maria, Charlotte and Adelaide. The founder was a

Cumberland man, and his college attracted a neighbour or a man who spoke

with his accent or had the same traditions to become one of the fellows,

equal in number with Christ and His apostles. Before and after the

beginning of colleges, men from the same district made a small “new

Scotland” or “new France” in Oxford streets. Thus the scholars of St.

George’s and Oriel were for some time largely Welsh; at Balliol and

University College there were many northerners. At all times these

divisions were emphasised by conflicts with tongue and arrow and sword.

Scholars overlooked their Aristotle at bloody arguments in Grove Street

and Cornmarket, between North and South, Irish and Welsh and Scotch, in

combinations that varied unaccountably or according to the politics of

the day. You might know a scholar, as an ancient tinker remarked the

other day, remembering the boxing booths of his youth, by the way he

fought. The election of a chancellor, or a church wake, and an exchange

of lusty oaths between men of two parties were the occasion. In later

years Realists and Nominalists,--Orthodox and Wycliffites,--now and then

reduced their disagreement to simple terms. Nor were the citizens with

difficulty persuaded to take or make a side in the disputes, whether

they encountered the scholars at inns, or as they stood on

market-days,--the sellers of hay and faggots and hogs, stretching in

their regular places from the East gate, in front of St. Mary’s and All

Saints’, to Carfax and the

[Illustration: GROVE STREET

This narrow street runs from the High Street opposite St. Mary’s

Church alongside St. Mary’s Hall and Oriel College, emerging near

to Merton, part of the tower of which College appears.

It contains some picturesque half-timbered buildings, some of which

are shown in the picture.

]

Cross Inn. Once, a northern chaplain, “with other malefactors,”

embattled themselves and sought out the Welshmen with bent bows, crying

to the “Welsh dogs and their whelps” that an Owen or a Meredydd who

looked out at his door was a dead man. The Welshmen were driven out of

the city with ignominy and blood. The Northeners robbed and murdered

indiscriminately, and destroyed not only books but harps, until, finding

an ale-house, they were incontinently appeased. On another occasion some

townsmen burst in, on a Sunday, upon a few scholars, wounding and

despoiling them. The scholars spread their story and collected friends.

The townsmen responded to the sound of horns and St. Martin’s bell.

Countrymen from Hinksey and Headington came to the help of the

unlearned. The air whistled and hummed with the flight of arrows and

stones; the streets were crimsoned. But the reverend gentleman who led

the learned was untimely shot down, and his cause evaporated. Some

scholars fled to the country, some to sanctuary, and were comforted by

the excommunication and fining of their opponents. After a similar fight

the University was allowed that exemption from the city courts which it

still enjoys. In fact, the disturbances earned very cheaply for the

University concessions which put the citizens at a disadvantage, and

emphasised distinctions, so as to cause other disturbances in turn.

Henry V., himself a Queen’s College man, at last interfered with an

order that scholars would only be treated as such if they were under the

rule of an approved head. It was an attempt to banish the wild errant

scholars, often Irishmen, and to make a common type of Chaucer’s Clerk

of Oxenford, who had been to Padua and knew Petrarch’s verse. He was one

who, even in his devotion to books, did not forget the souls of his

benefactors, for which he was, in the first instance, endowed to pray--

And he was not right fat, I undertake,

But looked holwe, and therto sobrely;

Ful thredbare was his overeste courtepy;

For he hadde geten hym yet no benefice,

Ne was so worldly for to have office;

For hym was levere have at his beddes heed

Twenty bookes clad in black or reed

Of Aristotle and his philosophic,

Than robës riche, or fithele, or gay sautrie;

But al be that he was a philosophre,

Yet hadde he but litel gold in cofre;

But al that he myghte of his freendes hente

On bookes and his lernynge he it spent,

And bisily gan for the soules preye

Of him that yaf hym wherewith to scoleye.

Of studie tooke he moost cure and moost heede,

Noght o word spake he moore than was neede,

And that was seyd in forme and reverence,

And short and quyk and ful of hy sentence.

Sounynge in moral vertu was his speche,

And gladly wolde he lerne and gladly teche.

But William of Wykeham, before that time, had given to New College a

code of ornate and intricate rules for morals and manners, which became

a legacy to the University at large; and in the first place checked the

savage liberties of scholars; in the second, helped to make learning

more “humane,” to make the “Arts” the “humanities.” He built a chapel

for the exclusive use of the scholars of his foundation. That in

itself

[Illustration: NEW COLLEGE

William of Wykeham (1404) built the noble tower which stands free

to the extreme right of the picture. A portion of the chapel is

seen to the left of the tower, and forms, with it and the trees, a

noble group.

The new retaining walls in the foreground are part of a recent

addition to the College.

]

was an inestimable addition to the golden chain by which Oxford holds

the memories of men. To the chapel they were to go every day, and there

to say their _Paters_ and _Aves_. Its Latin--the fittest language to be

uttered amidst old architecture--and its coloured windows alone are not

to-day as they were in Wykeham’s time. He built the bell-tower and the

cloisters, and so gave to generations a pleasant vision, and--when

dreams are on the wing--a starting-place or an eyrie for dreams. He

built also a kitchen, a brewery, and a bakehouse. He stocked both a

garden and a library for college use. Long before the “first tutor of

the first college of the first University of the world” entered Oxford

with post horses to assert his position, the Warden of New College had

the use of six horses. He wore an ermine amice in chapel. He had his own

palace apart. But the humblest member of the foundation had been as

minutely provided for by Wykeham’s code. Above all, the scholar was not

to be left to himself in his studies, but to the care of an appointed

tutor. And in 1387 the new college proceeded to William of Wykeham’s

quadrangle, with singing and pomp. It was the first home of scholars in

Oxford, which was completely and specially fashioned for their use

alone, to be

A place of friends! a place of books!

A place of good things olden!

In the next century the ideas of Walter de Merton and Dervorguilla and

William of Wykeham were borrowed and developed by loving founders,

architects, and benefactors. The building of Lincoln College, next

founded, was begun as soon as its charter was received; a chapel and a

library, a hall and a kitchen, and chambers on three storys, finely and

nobly built, were a matter of course. In the same way, All Souls’ front

quadrangle, practically as we see it to-day, was built at once by

Archbishop Chichele, the founder; and at Magdalen, which was next

founded, the tower began to rise on the extreme east of the city, to

salute the rising sun with its pinnacles, and on May morning, with a

song of choristers.

For Oxford, the fifteenth century was an age of libraries and books.

Looking back upon it, Duke Humphrey of Gloucester seems its patron

saint,--donor of books to the Benedictines who lived on the site of

Worcester College, and to the University,--harbinger of the Bodleian. We

can still catch the savour of the old libraries at Merton where the

light coloured by painted glass used to inlay the gloom under the wooden

roof, or behind the quiet latticed windows above the cloisters at Christ

Church. “What pleasantness of teaching there is in books, how easy, how

secret,” says Richard de Bury, Bishop of Durham, an old Oxford man, and

the giver of the first library to Oxford. “They are masters who instruct

us without rod or ferule, without angry words, without clothes or money.

If you come to them, they are not asleep; if you ask and inquire of

them, they do not withdraw themselves; they do not chide if you make

mistakes; they do not laugh at you if you are ignorant. O

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY

The portion of the Library shown in the picture is a storey built

above the Divinity School by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, son of

Henry IV., and the spectator is looking east towards the wing added

by Sir Thomas Bodley at the close of the sixteenth century.

Books cover every available inch of wall space, but the trusses of

the old timbered roof are visible, as are also the more modern

galleries, supported by wooden columns. These are for obtaining

access to books placed high in the Library. The strands of light

which bar the centre aisle are from the south windows of the

building, overlooking the Fellows’ Garden of Exeter College. The

windows also serve to light the “studies,” the latticed and

balustered doors of which may be seen standing open at intervals

(see illustration of one of these “studies”).

The cases in the immediate foreground are used for modern books.

]

books, who alone are liberal and free, who give to all who ask of you

and enfranchise all who serve you faithfully! by how many types ye are

commended to learned men in the Scriptures given us by the inspiration

of God!... Ye are the wells of living waters, which father Abraham first

digged, Isaac digged again, and which the Philistines strive to fill

up!...” Bury was a friend of Petrarch and Bradwardine, a Chancellor and

Treasurer of England, and his love of books became so famous that he was

reported “to burn with such a desire for books and especially old ones

that it was more easy for any man to gain our favour by means of books

than of money. The aumbries of the most famous monasteries were thrown

open, cases were unlocked and caskets were undone, and volumes that had

slumbered through long ages in their tombs wake up and are astonished.”

The great discoverer’s pleasure at the university of Paris corresponds

to that of visitors to Oxford in later years. “There,” he says, “are

delightful libraries, more aromatic than stores of spicery; there are

luxuriant parks of all manner of volumes; there are Academic meads

shaken by the tramp of scholars; there are lounges of Athens; walks of

the Peripatetics; peaks of Parnassus; and porches of the Stoics. There

is seen the surveyor of all Arts and Sciences, Aristotle, to whom

belongs all that is most excellent in doctrine, so far as relates to

this passing sublunary world; there Ptolemy measures epicycles and

eccentric apogees and the nodes of the planets by figures and numbers;

there Paul reveals the mysteries.” And to complete the resemblance of

Oxford to such a place, he gave all his books to “our hall at Oxford,”

where the masters and scholars were to pray for his soul. The fate of

his collection may have been worthy, but is mysterious. It is said to

have been divided, and part of it perhaps went to Balliol. It could have

found no more honourable abode than the Balliol library. From the

beginning gifts of books had come in, but chiefly what was even then

old-fashioned, until the middle of the fifteenth century. It was the

period when Guarino at Ferrara was an inspiration to Europe. Robert

Fleming was one of his pupils, and sent beautiful manuscripts to Lincoln

College library; and at Lincoln books flowed in before cash. Three

others of Guarino’s pupils were Balliol men: Gray, Bishop of Ely and

Chancellor of the University, whose books were collected with Guarino’s

help, and passed, the finest of their day, to Balliol at his death;

Free, public reader of physic at Ferrara, a great benefactor of

libraries, and a historian of trees and plants; and Tiptoft, Earl of

Worcester, splendid, eloquent, cruel; who had made golden speeches to

the Pope, the Cardinals, the men of Padua; had translated Cicero; and on

his return, adorned England with his learning and patronage, and shocked

it with the refined cruelties of Italy. His collection of manuscripts

went with Duke Humphrey’s to the University library, where a room was

made for them, over the quiet Divinity School then being built between

St. Mary’s and Durham Hall. Tiptoft was the most striking type of

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE LIBRARY, ALL SOULS’ COLLEGE

At the extreme east end of the Library is a seated marble figure of

Sir William Blackstone, by Bacon, the standing figure on the north

side in the recess being that of Sir Christopher Codrington, the

Founder of the Library, by Sir Henry Cheere.

Behind the statue is placed a case containing ancient articles

discovered in excavations on the site of the College.

Book-rests and chairs for students are placed at intervals in the

Library, which is nearly 200 feet long by over 30 feet wide.

Bronze busts of Fellows alternate with vases on the cornice of the

upper bookcases.

The colour of this Library is especially suited to its purpose,

being quiet and restful to the eye; the proportions are excellent,

and help the dignity of the room.

]

the Renaissance, of English blood. But it was the Italian Renaissance;

and after his death the direct influence of Italy was small in Oxford.

It was, however, an Italian, Vitelli, who uttered the first words of

Greek in Oxford. Plato was soon to enjoy a new life there, and to be

woven into the past of Oxford, as if he had really been of its children.

_It comes et paribus curis vestigia figit._ It was an age of great,

unpopular men who came and went suddenly and obscurely in Oxford, like

the first lecturers of the twelfth century. They were divinely inflated

with the beauty of Greek--a language always more strange and exotic and

fascinating to Englishmen than Latin--and with admiration of the

restorers of that beauty, Chrysoloras, Chalcondila, Politian. Grocyn, a

Magdalen man, fresh from Italy, taught Greek in the hall of Exeter.

Linacre, a great physician and Grecian, was Fellow of All Souls’. The

refined, persuasive Colet, whose “sacred fury” in argument Erasmus

praised, was also a Magdalen man, and founder of St. Paul’s school. Sir

Thomas More, the most perfect, but unhappily not the most influential

type of the English Renaissance, was at St. Mary Hall. Erasmus met them

all in Oxford, within that old gateway of St. Mary’s College in New Inn

Hall Street. As they stepped out after the symposium, one pointed to a

planet in the sky:

“See how Jupiter shines; it is an omen,” said he.

“Yes,” said another, “and we have been listening to Apollo.”

For a time the Grecians were ridiculed and attacked in the streets by

men who called themselves Priam, Hector, and Paris, and behaved--like

Trojans. In that first enthusiasm men seemed very near to the

inaccessible gods. Perhaps some were disposed to follow Pico della

Mirandola in pursuit of them. There was therefore a party which opposed

the study of Greek as heretical; and More was withdrawn from Oxford to

avoid the danger.

From the beautiful Magdalen cloisters came the men who launched Corpus

Christi College, just after Erasmus had published the New Testament in

Greek and the ancient Brasenose Hall had at last grown into a college.

The founder gave copies of Homer, Herodotus, Plato, and Horace, which

still survive. There was a public lecturer in Greek on the foundation.

Erasmus himself applauded and prophesied liberally of its future. It was

the “new college” of the Renaissance, as Wykeham’s had been of the

Middle Ages. The readers were to be chosen from England or Greece or

Italy. And among the first members of the college was the mystical

Bavarian dialler, Nicholas Kratzer, who made a dial in Corpus garden,

and that exquisite one for Wolsey, which is to be seen, in drawing, in

the library. Wolsey’s own college was built over against St.

Frideswide’s, part of which, together with one side of its cloisters,

was destroyed to give it place. It contained the largest quadrangle and

the most princely kitchen in Oxford. When Henry the Eighth spoiled the

monasteries, the bells of Osney were carried to Christ Church; and one

of them, over Wolsey’s gateway, does what it can to

[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS, MAGDALEN COLLEGE

The Hall and Chapel of the College stretch nearly across the picture

immediately in front of the spectator, the oriel window which lights the

daïs of the Hall marking the division between the west end of the Hall

and the east end of the Chapel.

Farther west, and closely adjoining the Chapel, at the south-west angle

of the Cloisters, rises the Founder’s Tower. A gateway under the Tower

leads to the Quadrangle of St. John the Baptist and the entrance to the

College.

The figures above the buttresses of the Cloisters were probably not

designed for their present position, but add to the picturesqueness of

the Cloisters, which, it will be observed, project from the main body of

the buildings.

Above the gleaming roof of the Chapel appears the beautiful bell tower

of the College, detached, and built at a different angle from the Hall

and Chapel, which are continued in the same line. The tower is 145 feet

high, and was completed about 1505.

Men in Masters’ gowns walk and converse on the grass.

The time is late afternoon.]

call the undergraduates home at nine, with a deep voice, as if it spoke

through its beard, which pretends to be B flat--“Bim-bom,” as the old

leonine hexameter says.

Hark! the bonny Christ Church bells--1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6--

They sound so wondrous great, so wondrous sweet,

As they trowl so merrily, merrily.

Oh! the first and second bell,

That every day, at four and ten, cry,

“Come, come, come to prayers!”

And the verger troops before the Dean.

Tinkle, tinkle, ting, goes the small bell at nine,

To call the bearers home:

But the devil a man

Will leave his can

Till he hears the mighty Tom.

So runs the catch of a later Dean. At Christ Church also there was a

lecturer in Greek. The dialler, Kratzer, was made mathematical

professor. Wolsey’s chapel never rose above a few feet in height, and

the uncompleted walls remained for a century; St. Frideswide’s became,

almost at the same time, the cathedral of the newly-created see of

Oxford, and the chapel of the college.

The grandiose Christ Church kitchen, which caused so much laughter

because it was the Cardinal’s first contribution to his college, was in

fact rather characteristic of the age that followed. It was built with

the revenues of suppressed monasteries. It was almost contemporaneous

with the destruction of many priceless books by reformers who were as

ignorant of what is dangerous in books as a Russian censor. The shelves

of Duke Humphrey’s library were denuded and sold. The shrine of St.

Frideswide’s, where the University had long offered reverence twice a

year, was shattered; the fragments were used here and there in the

buildings of the time. The relics of the saint were husbanded by a pious

few in hope of a restoration; but they were finally interred with those

of Peter Martyr’s wife--a significant mixture. It was the age when the

University became the playground of the richer classes, and the

nobleman’s son took the place of the poor scholar in a fellowship. Now

men found time to dispute with Cambridge as to which university was of

the greatest antiquity. The arguments put forward in Oxford were seldom

more convincing than this: that Oxford was named from a ford, Cambridge

from a bridge; and since the ford must have been older than the bridge,

Oxford was therefore founded first. Greek for the time decayed, and the

founder of Trinity College feared that its restoration was impossible in

that age. As to Latin, Sir Philip Sidney, who was at Christ Church, told

his brother that Ciceronianism was become an abuse among the Oxonians,

“who neglected things for words.” Oxford was dignified mainly by the

architecture of Christ Church; by the foundation of Trinity, St. John’s,

and Jesus College, all on learned and holy ground; by the martyrdom of

Latimer and Ridley, opposite Balliol; and by great names, like those of

Burton and Marston at Brasenose, Peele at Broadgates Hall (Pembroke),

Raleigh at Oriel, Hooker at Corpus Christi. Religion was still in the

pot, and men could not confidently tell what it would turn out to be. On

the one hand,

[Illustration: ST. JOHN’S COLLEGE

It is the east front of the College we see in the picture, the library

occupying the south end to the left. The garden upon which it looks is

one of the most beautiful and extensive in Oxford.

Some buildings of Balliol College show to the left.

The time is late afternoon in summer.]

the Earl of Leicester, as Chancellor of the University, mended and

confirmed its organisation; on the other hand, John Lyly was “the

fiddlestick of Oxford,” and other Magdalen men, lovers of open air, and

especially in the windy forest of Shotover, slew the King’s deer. At the

new college of St. John’s, fellows and presidents suffered for the old

religion, and Edwin Campion was hanged; they preserved, and still

preserve, the statue of St. Bernard from the old foundation to which

their college succeeded. At the end of the century, the most effective

Oxford man of his time, William Laud, became Fellow of St. John’s. He

built a new quadrangle, and as Chancellor made of the statutes that long

and many-tailed whip which every one knows. He created modern Broad

Street by deleting the cottages which stood near and opposite to

Trinity. The impressive, uncomfortable Convocation House was his work.

Within sight of it was the library which Sir Thomas Bodley earlier in

the century had built and stored. It became the calmest, most inviolate,

and most learned place in Europe.

At Christ Church, Dean Duppa, the first of the improvers of Oxford, was

beginning the work of destruction which the Puritans continued so well.

But it was then the good fortune of several colleges to receive large

additions of a simple and homely character, which did more than any

others to make Oxford what it is. It was the age of the retired Lincoln

College chapel, with its carved panels of perfumed cedar and rich,

quaint glass; the placid garden front of Wadham, as seen through the

cedar tree to-day; the front and colonnades of St. John’s which look on

the garden; the south end of the Exeter garden front that sees so much;

the front quadrangle of University College; the hall and chapel of St.

Mary’s Hall; the east end of Jesus College chapel, which was just

finished when Henry Vaughan arrived; and the front quadrangle of

Pembroke College, converted from Broadgates Hall by a clothier, the Earl

of Pembroke, and James I., and opened with ceremonies which included a

fantastic Latin oration by Sir Thomas Browne, as senior undergraduate.

The architecture of Wadham is a remarkable proof of the influence of

antiquity upon men and things in Oxford. The founders, in 1609, were

Nicholas Wadham and Dorothy, his wife, of Merifield in Somerset. The

builders were mainly west country men, and worked in that lingering

Gothic style which was still vital in Oxford, and seems to have guided

the hand of Wren (if it was Wren) when he planned the fan tracery of

Brasenose library. But in the building of Wadham chapel, one John Spicer

and his men seem to have been haunted by the beauty of the Perpendicular

churches of their native Somerset. The windows are so clear a

reconstruction of this dream that an experienced judge refused to

believe that they were of later date than Christ Church. Thither came a

son of Sir Walter Raleigh and Robert Blake, who took opposite sides when

the Civil War broke out.

There was a prelusive struggle between town and gown in the year before

the war. The chancellorship of Laud had roused opposition; but the

University was almost unanimous for Charles, and easily chose

[Illustration: MAGDALEN TOWER AND BOTANIC GARDEN

The tower of Magdalen College is seen rising over the trees of the

Botanic Garden, illumined by the last rays of the setting sun.

Beneath the poplar is one of the gate piers, and through an opening in

the clipped hedge shows the basin of a fountain.

Two girls walk in the meadows.]

its side, when he demanded a loan on the eve of the war.

Van Ling had just painted the windows of University College chapel. The

Dean of Christ Church, or rather “Smith of London,” had just finished

the airy over-traceried approach to Christ Church hall, upon which every

one looks back as he steps down to the cloisters. Other work was in

preparation at Christ Church. But all building suddenly ceased.

A brief visit of Parliament troops to the yet unfortified city was

recorded by the shattering of the Virgin and her Child over St. Mary’s

porch. After Edgehill, the King came to Oxford, and the effect was worse

than the mutilation of a Virgin of stone. The University Volunteers,

some armed with bows, were drilled in the quadrangle of New College and

Christ Church, and skirmished in the Parks. The royal artillery lay in

Magdalen Grove. New College tower and cloisters became the arsenal: New

Inn Hall the mint. Charles and Queen Henrietta Maria were lodged at

Merton. The Court was held at Christ Church. A Fellow of Magdalen and a

Fellow of All Souls’ edited the royalist gazette, _Mercurius Aulicus_,

“the latter pleasing more with his buffoneries.” The besieging

Parliamentarians were spread about the high ground of Headington, and

the low fields on the north of the city.

The greater number of scholars left Oxford, and their rooms were

occupied by ladies and cavaliers. College trees were cut down for use in

the defences. A little war, much gallantry and coarseness, drove away

learning and tranquillity, unwilling to linger for the sound of Sir John

Denham’s smooth and insipid Muse, which produced _Coopers Hill_ in 1642.

The Muses were probably in hiding abroad with Lovelace and Marvell; for

Milton was writing only prose, and George Wither, a Magdalen man, was a

captain of Parliamentary horse at Maidstone. Yet a contemporary pamphlet

says that “Robin Goodfellow” found the Muses near Eynsham. “He had not

gone as far as Ensham, but he espied the nine Muses in a vintner’s porch

crouching close together, and defending themselves as well as they could

from the cold visitation of the winter’s night. They were extream poore,

and (which is most strange) in so short an absence and distance from

Oxford they were grown extreamly ignorant, for they took him for their

Apollo, and craved his power and protection to support them.”

One room at Trinity College was pleasant still; for the glass of the

window was richly painted with a St. Gregory. And there Aubrey received

the newly-published _Religio Medici_, “which first opened my

understanding.” He carried it to Eston with Sir Kenelm Digby. Coming

back to Oxford, he bade a servant to draw the ruins of Osney “two or

three ways before ’twas pulled down.”

Plague came in 1643, fire in the following year. The Cavaliers were

reputed to have embezzled books from the Bodleian, which had formerly

resisted, and won the respect of, Charles himself. The colleges

[Illustration: MAGDALEN TOWER AND BRIDGE

The Bridge runs westward across the picture, some buildings of the

Botanic Garden appearing on the extreme left.

Over the centre of the Bridge rises the fine tower of the College, while

to the right above the north balustrade of the Bridge shows the roof of

the Hall and Chapel.

On the ground floor of the gabled buildings are the kitchens, the upper

storey being used as sets of rooms for students.

We see part of the river Cherwell.]

made what some call a “friendly loan” of all their plate: it was never

returned or replaced by the King. Week by week, they furnished him with

labour and cash. And when the Parliamentarians entered at last, there

were at Merton, for example, “no Bachelors, hardly any Scholars, and few

Masters,” and the hall was untenantable. The triumph of Parliament

brought with it an inquisition in Oxford, which resulted in the exile,

not without force, of the greater number of heads of houses and fellows

for refusal to submit. The soldiers broke the Magdalen chapel

window-glass; Cromwell himself took away the college organ to Hampton

Court. But “the first thing General Fairfax did, was to set a good guard

of soldiers to preserve the Bodleian Library. He was a lover of

learning, and had he not taken this special care, that noble library had

been utterly destroyed.” The chief objection to the intruded fellows and

heads of houses seems to have been that they were intruded and were

likely to stay. As for their accomplishments, though some lacked humour,

they seem to have been respectable. The undergraduates and bachelors

were in the main loyal to Cromwell; and when Prince Charles was rumoured

to be approaching Oxford, New College tower became a Parliament citadel,

and a troop of horse was enlisted from the colleges. The old glory of

religion faded; the sound of distant Latin chanted was no longer heard

in Christ Church and New College. But in one house, three devoted men

preserved the old religion right through the Commonwealth, constantly

and without molestation. Other changes made men more content. Three

coffee-houses were opened in Oxford and patronised by royalists and

“others who esteemed themselves virtuosi and wits.” Men who would have

adorned any age came up. Christopher Wren came to Wadham, and thence to

All Souls’. Evelyn revisited Oxford and found no just ground to regret

the former times, ... “creation of Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss,

etc., those ancient ceremonies and institutions, as yet not wholly

abolished.” At All Souls’ he heard “music, voices, and theorbos,

performed by some ingenious scholars.” At New College “the chapel was in

its ancient garb, notwithstanding the scrupulosity of the times,” and

the chapel at Magdalen was “in pontificial order, the altar only I think

turned table-wise.” Then he dined at Wadham, and wrote down an account

of what he saw at the Warden’s, “that most obliging and universally

curious Dr. Wilkins.” The transparent apiaries, hollow speaking statues,

dials, waywisers, and other “artificial mathematical and magical

curiosities,” which he saw, well illustrate the activities of the time

in the cradle of the Royal Society.

A little after Wren came Thomas Traherne, the poet, to Brasenose, still

enjoying that childhood which he praised so adeptly. We may think of him

in the peaceful embowered city as having that characteristic ecstasy at

the sight of common things which his lyrical prose describes. “The corn

was orient and immortal wheat which never should be reaped nor was ever

sown. I thought it had stood from everlasting to

[Illustration: ALL SOULS’ COLLEGE AND THE HIGH STREET

On the right of the picture are the entrance gate and part of the south

front of All Souls’ College. West of the College, and facing the narrow

street leading into Radcliffe Square, shows the east end of the south

aisle of St. Mary’s Church, and the white pinnacles of the Nave.

Past the porch and the new extension of Brasenose to the High Street

rises the tower and spire of All Saints’, the distance being closed by

the tower of St. Martin at Carfax.]

everlasting. The dust and stones of the street were as precious as gold:

the gates were at first the end of the world. The green trees, when I

saw them first through one of the gates, transported and ravished me;

their sweetness and unusual beauty made my heart to leap, and almost mad

with ecstasy, they were such strange and wonderful things. The men! O

what venerable and reverend creatures did the aged men seem! Immortal

cherubim! And young men glittering and sparkling angels, and maids

strange seraphic pieces of life and beauty!”

Again, books began to flow in their natural courses to the libraries.

Selden’s eight thousand came to the Bodleian. Building was resumed; for

Brasenose chapel was half built by the time of the Restoration.

The Restoration restored to Oxford the Church, a few excellent old men,

and the morals of the siege. The august Clarendon was indeed Chancellor;

but the city became a fashionable resort. Charles II., with his Queen

and Castlemaine, were there in 1663, and again with the Parliament in

the year of the plague. “High-thundering Jove,” runs a contemporary

ballad, supposed to be spoken by London to Oxford:--

High-thundering Jove cannot withstand thy charms,

That Britain’s mighty monarch in thy arms

Canst hold so fast, and quite to overcome

The greatest potentate in Christendom.

The aim of scholars, said Anthony à Wood, “is not to live as students

ought to do, viz., temperate, abstemious, and plain and grave in their

apparel; but to live like gentry, to keep dogs and horses, to turn

their studies into places to keep bottles, to swagger in gay apparell

and long periwigs!” There was too much punning, thought Eachard. In his

inquiry into the causes of the contempt of the clergy, he is not kind to

the University of the day, and asks, “Whether or not Punning, Quibbling,

and that which they call Joquing, and such delicacies of wit, highly

admired in some academic exercises, might not be very conveniently

omitted?” The first Common Room was established at Merton soon after the

Restoration. But in that age even Common Rooms seem to have been but

privileged and secluded inns, and quite without the severely genial

amphictyonic character of to-day. When Pepys visited Oxford he naturally

found it “a very sweet place”; spent 2s. 6d. on a barber in its honour;

10s. “to him that showed us All Souls’ College and Chichley’s picture”;

2s. for seeing the Brasenose butteries and the gigantic hand of the

“Child of Hale”; and having seen the Physic Garden, the hospital, and

Friar Bacon’s study, concluded: “Oxford mighty fine place, well seated,

and cheap entertainment.” But the cheap entertainment is now among the

lost causes. A little while afterwards, Evelyn attended the opening of

the Sheldonian Theatre, built by Wren. He complained of the “tedious,

abusive, sarcastical rhapsody” which was permitted on that occasion to

the _Terræ Filius_, a kind of Billingsgate Aristophanes, who

half-officially represented the undergraduate aversion to sweetness and

light. The university printing-office

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE SHELDONIAN THEATRE

The proceedings of Commemoration take place here, at which time the

_area_--entered by the door to the left--is crowded by visitors.

One of the two figures is gazing at the pulpit from which the prize

poems and essays of successful candidates are recited.

The axe and fasces projecting from the pulpit denote the justice of the

awards.

The upper gallery is supported by wooden columns standing upon a podium

partially surrounding the _area_, and the building altogether is one of

Sir Christopher Wren’s best works.]

lay under the theatre, and, says a ballad of the time--

What structure else but prides it to reveal

Treasures? which bashful this would fain conceal; ...

Spain, Gascoin, Florence, Smyrna, and the Rhine

May taste their language there, tho’ not the wine.

The Jew, Mede, Edomite, Arabian, Crete,

In those deep vaults their wandring ideoms meet,

And to compute, are in amazement hurld,

How long since Oxford has been all the world.

At Magdalen, men were planting the elms of the grove and laying out the

walks round the meadow. Bishop Fell was completing the west front of

Christ Church, which the Civil War had interrupted, and planting those

elms in the Broad Walk that look on the Cathedral and Corpus and Merton,

and, farther off, Magdalen tower. In 1680 Wren’s tower over Wolsey’s

gateway at Christ Church was finished. One of the Osney bells was recast

to hang therein.

The resistance of James II. fell in this coarse, frivolous,

self-satisfied age. He was welcomed to Oxford by music and ceremony. The

conduit “ran claret for the vulgar.” But when he adventured to force his

nominee into the presidentship of Magdalen, he could not even procure a

blacksmith to burst a resisting door. Again, the University stood to

arms to oppose Monmouth’s rebellion, and clothed its members in scarlet

coats, with scarves, and white-plumed hats; but had to be contented with

the bonfires in celebration of the victory at Sedgemoor, and a

full-dress parade. Not long afterwards many yards of orange ribbon made

the High Street gaudy with a pretence at honouring William III. But the

colleges were vigorously Jacobite, and proved it by drinking the healths

of the Stuarts as long as they could. Merton, Exeter, All Souls’, and

Wadham were the exceptions. One example of the lighter occupations of

the period is to be found in a story of somewhat earlier date, told of

Dr. Bathurst, Vice-Chancellor and President of Trinity. “A striking

instance of zeal for his college, in the dotage of old age, is yet

remembered. Balliol College had suffered so much in the outrages of the

grand rebellion, that it remained almost in a state of desolation for

some years after the Restoration, a circumstance not to be suspected

from its flourishing condition ever since. Dr. Bathurst was perhaps

secretly pleased to see a neighbouring and once rival society reduced to

this condition, while his flourished beyond all others. Accordingly, one

afternoon, he was found in his garden, which then ran almost continuous

to the east side of Balliol College, throwing stones at the windows with

much satisfaction, as if happy to contribute his share in completing the

appearance of its ruin.” I seem to find an echo of the sentiment of very

different men, with a love of the old time amidst the politics and wine

of the day, in Aubrey’s ejaculation: he wished that monasteries had not

entirely been suppressed; for if but a few had been left, “what a

pleasure ’twould have been to have travelled from monastery to

monastery!” Nevertheless, the Oxford output of bishops was not

decreased, and the number of quiet scholars--men like

[Illustration: CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE

In the centre of the quadrangle rises a cylindrical dial, surmounted by

a “pelican in her piety,” the badge of the Founder of the College.

Behind, to the right, is the great entrance gateway and tower.

The College cat gives scale.]

Hody of Wadham--was larger than one might conclude from the pages of

_honest_ Thomas Hearne, of St. Edmund Hall.

It was upon an old monastic foundation--once Gloucester College, then

Gloucester Hall--that the one new eighteenth-century college was

established. Gloucester Hall had numbered among its inhabitants several

famous, rather odd men, like Tom Coryat and Thomas Allen, but had fallen

away after the Restoration. It was, in short, almost a possession of

nettles. The buildings were only kept on the edge of desolation by the

Principal and two or three families in residence. The seventeenth

century had made one fantastic attempt to retrieve the Hall. A colony of

twenty students from the four Patriarchates of the Eastern Church was to

be regularly established there. But the dreamy plan was soon parched and

destroyed in the odour of scandal. After much trifling procrastination,

the Greeks were succeeded by Worcester College, and a lucky poverty left

the worn old buildings for a little longer untroubled. A library, a

hall, and a chapel were prepared for the new society. Wide spaces of

land on every side of it were retained or acquired, which afterwards

gave the college a fat rent and its incomparable bosky and watered

garden.

While Worcester was being founded in the conventional way, Oxford was

developed by such buildings as the cloister at Corpus, the Pembroke

chapel, the hall at All Souls’, the front quadrangle at Queen’s, and the

little Lincoln “Grove” cottages. Then also the Trinity College lime

trees were planted. In most of the work of that time Dean Aldrich of

Christ Church had a hand or a word. This clever and genial tutor was one

of the best men of his day, and quite typical of the early eighteenth

century. He seems to have been one to whom action came more naturally

than dreams, if he dreamed at all; and he could easily express the many

sides of his personality in a lasting way. A happy and golden

mediocrity! He encouraged Boyle in the dazzling indiscretion of _The

Epistles of Phalaris_. He wrote the enduring Oxford Logic, a smoking

catch, and “Hark! the bonny Christ Church bells”; and perhaps this

translation:--

If on my theme I rightly think,

There are five reasons why men drink,

Good wine, a friend, or being dry,

Or lest we should be, by and by,

Or any other reason why.

The size of his architectural designs is seen in Peckwater quadrangle at

Christ Church; their charm, in All Saints’, which the moon loves. Soon

after his death in 1710, the stately library at Christ Church and that

copious one at All Souls’ were begun.

In the year of the building of Pembroke chapel, Samuel Johnson entered

the college, where they preserve his deal writing-table and china

tea-pot. As Aldrich represents the early part of the century in Oxford,

so Johnson represents the middle. Men are nowadays disposed to blame the

cheerfulness of an age that produced a hundred immortals who do not give

the true

[Illustration: CHRIST CHURCH--PECKWATER QUADRANGLE

Through the opening between the west end of the College Library on the

right, and some houses inhabited by Masters of the College on the left,

appears the spire of the University Church of St. Mary. Part of the

pediment of the buildings on the north side of Peckwater Quadrangle

shows beneath.

The piece of masonry on the extreme right of the picture is part of the

wall of the passage leading to Tom Quadrangle.

Two undergraduates converse to the left.]

ring. The college historians often entitle one of their

eighteenth-century chapters the “dark” or “iron” age; and indeed, as a

“school of universal learning,” the Oxford of that day might be called

in question. It was more aristocratic and exclusive, perhaps, than it

had ever been, and it failed to justify itself. “What class in life”--it

was a song by a fellow in a play of the period--

What class in life, tho’ ne’er so great,

With a good fellowship can compare?

And in the same play, says one, of Horace, “He was a jolly _utile dulci_

dog, and I believe formerly might be fellow at a college.” Yet in our

backward glances over Oxford history, how often do we stop when we reach

that age! whether we are drinking from an old reminding tankard with the

date 17--, or looking at one of its books, or living in one of the rooms

which it wainscotted or furnished, heavily but how genially! “You are a

philosopher, Dr. Johnson,” said Edwards, his college friend. “I have

tried too in my time to be a philosopher; but I don’t know how,

cheerfulness was always breaking in.” Cheerfulness broke in pretty often

in Oxford. And that was a time when there was more love of Oxford than

ever before. Even the wealthy Fellows of All Souls’ (“that Eden to the

fruitful mind,” as Lady Winchilsea called it at that time) never bought

their college; and when one of them was taunted with the quip that

Oxford was less learned than Bath, he was able to reply that it was also

more fashionable. I find, too, in its love of the past, as in its love

of nature, something heartier, though I daresay less mystical, than our

own. Johnson’s love of Pembroke is an example. He had lived there as an

undergraduate only fourteen months, and there seems to have been little

that was tangible, to take hold of him in so short a time. Yet when he

came back long after, and heard old Camden’s grace after meat--which

they still use--he was at home. It is true that men of that age could as

little appreciate its blank verse as we can compose it, but there were

many who could then appreciate what we can now only describe. The

country (in summer)--antiquity--good living--were fine things; but when

they wrote, it was theology, or morals, or inaccurate philology. There

was a man, long ago with God, who after much waiting obtained a fine

coveted room at New College: instead of writing a sonnet forthwith, he

expressed a wish to kick some one downstairs incontinently. On one

occasion, it is said, the head of a college, and a great lover of

Oxford, who was jocund and recumbent after a feast, was with great

circumstance invited by several wags “to accept the crown of this old

and famous kingdom, since King George has resigned.” To which he slowly

replied, without surprise, that “if we can hold our Court of St. James’s

in this Common Room, we shall not demur.” Warton’s _Companion to the

Guide_ and Wood’s _Modius Salium_ are full of what we should call poor

Oxford humour; but I think there is sufficient indication of the

laughter it caused, to make us pause in any condemnation of it as

compared with our own “thoughtful mirth,” which

[Illustration: THE RADCLIFFE LIBRARY, OR CAMERA BODLEIANA, FROM ALL

SOULS’ COLLEGE

Across the picture runs a cloistered screen separating the green

quadrangle of All Souls’ College from Radcliffe Square. Over an

entrance to the College to the left rises an octangular ogee roof,

protecting some beautiful wrought-iron gates.

To the right of this is the grand sweeping entablature of the

Camera, bearing its majestic dome and lantern. This dome may

compare with some of the finest in Europe.

The time is morning.

]

inspires mainly a desire to say something more mirthful and less

thoughtful. And for those who care for none of these things, what

sweeter or more dignified picture of quietness and study is there than

at Lincoln in Wesley’s time, or at University under Scott, or Christ

Church under Jackson? What handsomer than the Camera which was built in

the middle of that century, or better to live in than Fisher’s buildings

at Balliol? Or what inheritance more agreeable than the old

bowling-greens, so happily celebrated in the Sphæristerium; or than the

college gardens, which are nearly all eighteenth-century gifts? It has

been said that the only movement in the eighteenth century was a very

slow ascent to the nineteenth. That is not quite so, as many will agree

who look at the re-fronting of University College chapel and hall, which

was done when the wonderful century was reached at length. In fact, if

we condemn the eighteenth century, we have to disown a large part of the

nineteenth. In Oxford that is especially so. The destruction of the old

chapels at Balliol and Exeter, and of the Grove at Merton, was carried

out only fifty years ago; so long have the dark ages lingered in Oxford.

As for the new buildings at New College, Christ Church, Merton, etc.,

they have been so widely condemned that it is to be presumed there is

some merit in them, which an age nearer the millennium will praise.

But those works are only the less admirable and more conspicuous emblems

of the nineteenth-century reformation. It had at length become possible

again for a man to keep his terms and take his degree without continual

residence within college walls. The numbers of the University grew

rapidly, and at a time when more efficient tutors and discipline made

Oxford attractive to many who were neither frivolous nor rich. Oxford

became, in fact, a place of education. The previous century had been

conspicuous for great names and lack of system; what was achieved was

due to individual endowment and energy; and the able men stood somewhat

apart from their contemporaries. Wesley, for example, not only failed to

make a strong party, but even to rouse an opposition of useful size. The

nineteenth century, on the other hand, was a sociable one in matters of

intellect. There were few lonely names. There were many groups. College

after college--in a few cases before, in nearly all cases after, the

first Commission--became known for their style of thought more than for

their noblemen or wine. The fault of monkishness was either blotted out

or exchanged for one that is more commonly pardoned to-day, _nimium

gaudens popularibus auris_. At first, this meant an emphasis upon the

distinction between college and college. It required more than a walk up

Turl Street to get from Oriel to Balliol. The competition engendered by

the new separate honour schools probably increased this for a time; and

it was reported of one Head that, when told that Worcester College was

above his own in a class list, he turned to the butler, and asked where

Worcester was. But the east wind of the Commission changed all that. At

the same time

[Illustration: ENTRANCE GATEWAY OF HERTFORD COLLEGE AND THE RADCLIFFE

LIBRARY

The gateway and wall have disappeared, this view of the Library

being shut out by the new high buildings.

To the left of the picture is a part of the College, and over the

gateway shows a portion of the old Schools, the majestic dome and

lantern of the Radcliffe Library filling the intervening space.

A couple of undergraduates lean against the building to the left of

the picture.

]

the friendly and often stimulating intercourse between senior and junior

members of the colleges grew apace, and was no doubt encouraged by the

increasing fashionableness of athletic sports, which gave a “Blue” the

importance of a fellow, and a greater consciousness of importance.

In its progress towards what is most admired in modern Oxford, Balliol

is the most interesting college. Nearly all other colleges have indeed

acquired a more or less thorough resemblance to Balliol in its good and

bad points, but no other college has been so long, so persistently, and

so progressively devoted to the same ideal. Even those who do not wholly

like that ideal cannot fail to admire the consistency and energy of the

men who have achieved it, or could find the like to any comparable

extent in colleges that cherish other affections.

But nowhere has there been an entire rupture with the past, or anything

new which has not in a sense been laid reverently upon the foundations

of the old. If one could see Keble College without its buildings, it

might well seem to be not the youngest of the colleges. So, too, with

Hertford College, which is indeed but the rejuvenation of the old homes

of Hobbes, Selden, and Matthew Hale: it has doffed knee-breeches and

periwig, and even those perhaps unwillingly, since its fellowships are

lifelong for the celibate. And in the architecture of Oxford, some of

the most novel effects of last century were produced by work in the same

spirit of reverence for the past. Here, a window received back its

casements again; there, a fine roof was rescued from its burial under

the impertinent superimpositions of more egotistic innovators. No other

age and city perhaps would have been so curious and fortunate in

restoring the old, as when at Christ Church the old floral marble base

of St. Frideswide’s shrine was restored after three hundred years in the

wilderness. Part was found in the cemetery wall, part in a well-side,

part in a staircase, part in a wall: and almost the whole now rests in

the Cathedral again.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST CHURCH

At the east end of the choir is seen the wheel-window with two

circular-headed windows underneath, restored in 1871.

Above these rises the late groined roof of the Choir, its richness

contrasting well with the Norman arches below, which spring from

corbels attached to the pillars.

The Cathedral is also the College Chapel.

]

DONS ANCIENT AND MODERN

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