THE GAY NINETIES

Chicago a phoenix city risen from the ashes of its great fire;

downtown business buildings two, three and four stories high, more

of former than latter, few a little higher, elevators a rare luxury;

across the river many one-story stores and shops with signs in large

lettering, pioneer style, on their false fronts; streets paved with

granite blocks echo to the rumble of iron-tired wheels and the clank

of iron-shod hoofs; a continuous singing of steel car-cables on State

Street and Wabash Avenue; horse-drawn cross-town cars thickly carpeted

with straw in winter; outlying residential streets paved with cedar

blocks; avenues boasting asphalt. Bonneted women with wasp waists, leg

o’ mutton sleeves, bustles, their lifted, otherwise dust-collecting,

skirts revealing high-buttoned shoes and gaily-striped stockings; men

in brown derbies, short jackets, high-buttoned waist-coats, tight

trousers without cuffs and, when pressed, without pleats; shirts

with Piccadilly collars and double-ended cuffs of detachable variety

(story told of how a famous author’s hero, scion of an old house,

when traveling by train, saw a beautiful young lady, undoubtedly of

aristocratic birth, possibly royal, and wanting to meet her, love at

first sight, object matrimony, first retires, with true blue-blood

gentility, to wash-room and reverses cuffs. Romance, incident

ruthlessly deleted by publisher, proves a best seller). Black walnut

furniture upholstered in hair-cloth, pride of many a Victorian parlor,

is gradually being replaced by golden oak and ash; painters’ studios,

especially portrait variety, are hung with oriental rugs and littered

with oriental screens and pottery. High bicycles, the Columbia with

its little wheel behind and the Star with the little wheel in front,

soon to disappear, are still popular. Low wheels, called “safeties,”

are beginning to appear, occasionally ridden by women wearing bloomers.

Pneumatic tires unknown.

Recognized now as a period of over-ornamentation and bad taste, the

Nineties were nevertheless years of leisurely contacts, kindly advice

and an appreciative pat on the back by an employer, and certainly a

friendly bohemianism seldom known in the rush and drive of today.

Eugene Field has just returned from a vacation in Europe and in his

column, _Sharps and Flats_, Chicago is reading the first printing of

_Wynken, Blynken and Nod_. Way & Williams, publishers, have an office

on the floor below my studio. Irving Way, who would barter his last

shirt for a first edition, his last pair of shoes for a volume from the

Kelmscott Press of William Morris, is a frequent and always stimulating

visitor.

“Will,” says Irving, “be over at McClurg’s some noon soon, in Millard’s

rare book department, the ‘Amen Corner.’ Field will be there, and

Francis Wilson, who is appearing at McVickar’s in _The Merry Monarch_,

and other collectors. Maybe there’ll be an opportunity for me to

introduce you--and Francis Wilson might ask you to do a poster.”

I go to the Press Club occasionally with Nixon Waterman, the columnist

who was later to write his oft-quoted, “A rose to the living is more,

If graciously given before The slumbering spirit has fled, A rose to

the living is more Than sumptuous wreaths to the dead.” We sit at

table with Opie Read, the well-loved humorist; Ben King, who wrote the

delightful lament, “Nothing to eat but food, nowhere to go but out”;

Stanley Waterloo, who wrote _The Story of Ab_ and, with Luders, the

musical comedy, _Prince of Pilsen_, and other newspaper notables whose

names I have forgotten.

Two panoramas, _Gettysburg_ and _Shiloh_, are bringing welcome wages to

landscape and figure painters who will soon migrate to St. Joe across

the lake and return in the fall with canvases to be hung at the Art

Institute’s annual show.

Only one topic on every tongue--the coming World’s Fair.

Herbert Stone is at Harvard. He and his classmate, Ingalls Kimball,

quickened with enthusiasm and unable to await their graduation, have

formed the publishing company of Stone & Kimball. On paper bearing two

addresses, Harvard Square, Cambridge, and Caxton Building, Chicago,

Herbert commissions a cover, title-page, page decorations and a poster

for _When Hearts Are Trumps_, a book of verse by Tom Hall--my first

book assignment. This pleasing recognition from a publishing house

is followed by a meeting with Harriet Monroe and a Way & Williams

commission for a cover and decorations for the _Columbian Ode_.

Your studio is now in the Monadnock building. It is the year of the

World’s Fair. You have an exhibit that has entitled you to a pass. Jim

Corbett is in a show on the Midway. When he is not on the stage you

can see him parading on the sidewalks. Buffalo Bill is appearing in a

Wild West show. An edition of _Puck_ is being printed in one of the

exhibition buildings.

You design a cover for a Chicago and Alton Railroad folder. The drawing

goes to Rand McNally for engraving and printing. Mr. Martin asks

you to come and see him. His salary offer is flattering. But, aside

from Bridwell’s designs at Mathews Northrup’s in Buffalo, railroad

printing is in a long-established rut, void of imagination. You prefer

free-lancing. Later Mr. Martin buys the K & L plant. Herbert Rogers,

the former bookkeeper, establishes his own plant and you hope he will

continue the K & L tradition.

Mr. McQuilkin, editor of _The Inland Printer_, commissions a permanent

cover. When the design is finished I ask:

“Why not do a series of covers--a change of design with each issue?”

“Can’t afford them.”

“How about my making an inducement in the way of a tempting price?”

“I’ll take the suggestion to Shephard.”

Suggestion approved by Henry O. Shephard, printer and publisher, and

the series is started--an innovation, the first occasion when a monthly

magazine changes its cover design with each issue. One cover, nymph in

pool, is later reproduced in London _Studio_. Another, a Christmas

cover, has panel of lettering that four American and one German foundry

immediately begin to cut as a type. Later the American Type Founders

Company, paying for permission, names the face “Bradley.”

A poster craze is sweeping the country. Only _signed_ copies are

desired by collectors and to be shown in exhibitions. Designs by French

artists: Toulouse-Lautrec, Chéret, Grasset, etc., some German and a few

English, dominate displays. Edward Penfield’s _Harper’s Monthly_ and my

_Chap-Book_ designs are only American examples at first available.

Will Davis, manager of the Columbia Theater, has just completed the

Haymarket, out on West Madison at Halstead. You design and illustrate

the opening-night souvenir booklet. This you do for Mr. Kasten, of

McClure’s. Thus you meet Mr. Davis. He introduces you to Dan Frohman

who commissions you to design a twenty-eight sheet stand for his

brother, Charles, who is about to open the new Empire Theater in New

York. So you design a poster for _The Masqueraders_, by Henry Arthur

Jones. This is probably the first _signed_ theatrical poster produced

by any American lithographer. Then Dan suggests that you visit New

York. You do, and meet Charles. Dan takes you to the Players for lunch.

There you see show-bills set in Caslon. They influence all of your

future work in the field of typography.

We now move to Geneva, Illinois, and I have my studio in a cottage

overlooking the beautiful Fox River.

Holiday covers for _Harper’s Weekly_, _Harper’s Bazaar_, _Harper’s

Young People_, later named _Harper’s Roundtable_, page decorations for

_Vogue_, a series of full-page designs for Sunday editions of _Chicago

Tribune_, Herbert Stone’s _Chap-Book_ article and other favorable

publicity--plucking me long before I am ripe, cultivate a lively pair

of gypsy heels; and believing myself, perhaps excusably, equal to

managing a printing business, editing and publishing an art magazine,

designing covers and posters, I return to Boston, then settle in

Springfield, start the Wayside Press, and publish _Bradley: His Book_.

[Illustration]

Will Bradley, His Chap Book An account, in the words of the dean of American typographers, of his graphic arts adventures ... · 第 8 / 20 题