Roses for winter blooming require a different treatment, as one
essential condition of free winter flowering is, that the plant has
abundance of active, or, as gardeners term them, “working roots.”
Plants are started for this purpose either by cuttings struck in
March, or else one year old plants are used. These plants should be
re-potted frequently to prevent their becoming pot-bound. They must
never be allowed to dry or wilt in the heat of summer, else the white,
working roots will perish, and before the plant can regain its vigor
new ones must be formed. You must not attempt to force your rose at
first; when you take it in for winter, a cool temperature will be
needful. It depends upon when you desire rosebuds how you treat it. It
must be pruned previous to flowering. If you desire roses the first of
January, prune or shorten the shoots the first of November (earlier
for Christmas). They then can be placed in temperature ranging fifty
degrees to sixty degrees at night, with only fifteen degrees higher
during the day. Two year old plants are better for new beginners, as
they form working roots sooner, having more fibres.
In the summer the plants should be exposed to the sun; but to keep them
from drying, place the pots in beds of sawdust, or refuse hops, tan,
bark, or sand, whichever is most convenient to obtain.