representative of Messrs. Sander, of St. Albans, the great orchid
importers, while traveling in America saw it blooming in New York,
in the collection of Messrs. Siebrecht & Wadley, and noting its
distinctness and beauty bought the stock of it. The same week another
new Laelia flowered in England and was sent up to one of the London
auction rooms for sale. As it so answered the description of the
American novelty which Messrs. Sander had just secured it was bought
for the St. Albans collection, and now it turns out that the English
novelty and the American novelty are one and the same thing, and a
comparison of dates shows that they flowered on the same day, although
in different hemispheres. As, however, it was first discovered in the
United States, it is intended to call it an American orchid, and that
is why Mr. Jay Gould has his name attached to it, In bulb and leaf the
novelty closely resembles _L. albida_, and in flower both _L. anceps_
and _L. autumnalis_. The flowers are as large as those of an average
form of _L. anceps_, the sepals are rather narrow, the petals as broad
as those of _L._ _anceps Dawsoni_, and both petals and sepals are of a
deep rose pink, intensified at the tips as if the color had collected
there and was dripping out. The tip is in form between that of _L.
anceps_ and _L. autumnalis_ and has the prominent ridges of the
latter, while the color is a rich purple crimson. The black viscid
pubescence, always seen on the ovary of _L. autumnalis_, is present on
that of _L. Gouldiana_. The plants I saw in the orchid nursery at St.
Albans lately, bore several spikes, some having three or four flowers.
Those who have seen it are puzzled about its origin, some considering
it a hybrid between _L. anceps_ and _L. autumnalis_, others consider
it a distinct species and to the latter opinion I am inclined.
Whatever its origin may be, it is certain we have a charming addition
to midwinter flowering orchids.
_W. Goldring._
London, February 1st.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Chrysanthemum--Mrs. Alpheus Hardy.]
A New Departure in Chrysanthemums.
The Chrysanthemum of which the figure gives a good representation is
one of a collection of some thirty varieties lately sent from Japan to
the lady for whom it has been named, Mrs. Alpheus Hardy of Boston, by
a young Japanese once a protege of hers, but now returned as a teacher
to his native country. As may be seen, it is quite distinct from any
variety known in this country or Europe, and the Japanese botanist
Miyabe, who saw it at Cambridge, pronounces it a radical departure
from any with which he is acquainted.
The photograph from which the engraving was made was taken just as
the petals had begun to fall back from the centre, showing to good
advantage the peculiarities of the variety.
The flower is of pure white, with the firm, long and broad petals
strongly incurved at the extremities. Upon the back or outer surface
of this incurved portion will be found, in the form of quite prominent
hairs, the peculiarity which makes this variety unique.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Hair from Petal of Chrysanthemum, much
enlarged. _a_--resin drop. _b_--epidermis of petal with wavy cells.]
These hairs upon close examination are found to be a glandular
outgrowth of the epidermis of the petals, multi-cellular in structure
and with a minute drop of a yellow resinous substance at the tip.
The cells at first conform to the wavy character of those of the
epidermis, but gradually become prismatic with straight walls, as
shown in the engraving of one of the hairs, which was made from a
drawing furnished by Miss Grace Cooley, of the Department of Botany at
Wellesley College, who made a microscopic investigation of them.
This is one of those surprises that occasionally make their appearance
from Japan. Possibly it is a chance seedling; but since one or two
other specimens in the collection are striking in form, and others are
distinguished for depth and purity of color, it is more probable that
the best of them have been developed by careful selection.
This Chrysanthemum was exhibited at the Boston Chrysanthemum Show last
December by Edwin Fewkes & Son of Newton Highlands, Mass.
_A. H. Fewkes._
New Plants from Afghanistan.
ARNEBIA CORNUTA.--This is a charming novelty, an annual, native of
Afghanistan. The little seedling with lancet-like hairy, dark green
leaves, becomes presently a widely branching plant two feet in
diameter and one and one-half feet high. Each branch and branchlet
is terminated by a lengthening raceme of flowers. These are in form
somewhat like those of an autumnal Phlox, of a beautiful deep
golden yellow color, adorned and brightened up by five velvety black
blotches. These blotches soon become coffee brown and lose more
and more their color, until after three days they have entirely
disappeared. During several months the plant is very showy, the fading
flowers being constantly replaced by fresh expanding ones. Sown in
April in the open border, it needs no care but to be thinned out and
kept free from weeds. It must, however, have some soil which does not
contain fresh manure.
DELPHINIUM ZALIL.--This, also, is a native of Afghanistan, but its
character, whether a biennial or perennial, is not yet ascertained.
The Afghans call it Zalil and the plant or root is used for dyeing
purposes. Some years ago we only knew blue, white and purple
larkspurs, and then California added two species with scarlet flowers.
The above is of a beautiful sulphur yellow, and, all in all, it is a
plant of remarkable beauty. From a rosette of much and deeply divided
leaves, rises a branched flower stem to about two feet; each branch
and branchlet ending in a beautiful spike of flowers each of about an
inch across and the whole spike showing all its flowers open at once.
It is likely to become a first rate standard plant of our gardens. To
have it in flower the very first year it must be sown very early, say
in January, in seed pans, and transplanted later, when it will flower
from the end of May until the end of July. Moreover, it can be sown
during spring and summer in the open air to flower the following year.
It is quite hardy here.
_Max Leichtlin._
Baden-Baden.
Iris tenuis.[1]
This pretty delicate species of Iris, Fig. 3, is a native of the
Cascade Mountains of Northern Oregon. Its long branching rootstocks
are scarcely more than a line in thickness, sending up sterile leafy
shoots and slender stems about a foot high. The leaves are thin and
pale green, rather taller than the stems, sword-shaped and half an
inch broad or more. The leaves of the stem are bract-like and distant,
the upper one or two subtending slender peduncles. The spathes are
short, very thin and scarious, and enclose the bases of their rather
small solitary flowers, which are "white, lightly striped and blotched
with yellow and purple." The sepals and petals are oblong-spatulate,
from a short tube, the sepals spreading, the shorter petals erect and
notched.
The peculiar habitat of this species doubtless accounts in good
measure for its slender habit and mode of growth. Mr. L. F. Henderson,
of Portland, Oregon, who discovered it in 1881, near a branch of the
Clackamas River called Eagle Creek, about thirty miles from Portland,
reports it as growing in the fir forests in broad mats, its very long
rootstocks running along near the surface of the ground, just covered
by moss or partly decayed fir-needles, with a light addition of soil.
This also would indicate the need of special care and treatment in its
cultivation. In May, 1884, Mr. Henderson took great pains to procure
roots for the Botanic Garden at Cambridge, which were received in
good order, but which did not survive the next winter. If taken
up, however, later in the season or very early in the spring, it is
probable that with due attention to soil and shade there would be
little trouble in cultivating it successfully. The accompanying figure
is from a drawing by Mr. C. E. Faxon.
_Sereno Watson._
[Footnote 1: TENUIS. Watson, _Proc. Amer. Acad._, xvii, 380.
Rootstock elongated, very slender (a line thick); leaves thin,
ensiform, about equaling the stems, four to eight lines broad;
stems scarcely a foot high, 2 or 3-flowered, with two or three
bract-like leaves two or three inches long; lateral peduncles
very slender, as long as the bracts; spathes scarious, an
inch long; pedicels solitary, very short; flowers small, white
marked with yellow and purple; tube two or three lines long;
segments oblong-spatulate, the sepals spreading, one and
one-half inches long, the petals shorter and emarginate;
anthers as long as the filaments; styles with narrow entire
crests; capsule oblong-ovate, obtuse, nine lines long.]
Hardy Shrubs for Forcing.
Shrubs for forcing should consist of early blooming kinds only.
The plants should be stocky, young and healthy, well-budded and
well-ripened, and in order to have first-class stock they should be
grown expressly for forcing. For cut flower purposes only, we can lift
large plants of Lilacs, Snowballs, Deutzias, Mock oranges and the like
with all the ball of roots we can get to them and plant at once in
forcing-houses. But this should not be done before New Year's. We
should prepare for smaller plants some months ahead of forcing time.
say in the preceding April or August, by lifting them and planting in
small pots, tubs or boxes as can conveniently contain their roots, and
we should encourage them to root well before winter sets in. Keep them
out of doors and plunged till after the leaves drop off; then either
mulch them where they are or bring them into a pit, shed or cool
cellar, where there shall be no fear of their getting dry, or of
having the roots fastened in by frost. Introduce them into the
green-house in succession; into a cool green-house at first for a few
weeks, then as they begin to start, into a warmer one. From the time
they are brought into the green-house till the flowers begin to open
give a sprinkling overhead twice a day with tepid water. When they
have done blooming, if worth keeping over for another time, remove
them to a cool house and thus gradually harden them off, then plant
them out in the garden in May, and give them two years' rest.
Shrubs to be forced for their cut flowers only should consist of such
kinds as have flowers that look well and keep well after being cut.
Among these are _Deutzia gracilis_, common Lilacs of various colors,
_Staphyllea Colchica_, _Spiraea Cantonensis_ (_Reevesii_) single and
double, the Guelder Rose, the Japanese Snowball and _Azalea mollis_.
To these may be added some of the lovely double-flowering and Chinese
apples, whose snowy or crimson-tinted buds and leafy twigs are very
pretty. The several double-flowered forms of _Prunus triloba_ are also
desirable, but a healthy stock is hard to get. _Andromeda floribunda_
and _A. Japonica_ set their flower buds the previous summer for the
next year's flowers, and are, therefore, like the Laurestinus, easily
forced into bloom after New Year's. Hardy and half-hardy Rhododendrons
with very little forcing may be had in bloom from March.
In addition to the above, for conservatory decoration we may introduce
all manner of hardy shrubs. Double flowering peach and cherry
trees are easily forced and showy while they last. Clumps of _Pyrus
arbutifolia_ can easily be had in bloom in March, when their abundance
of deep green leaves is an additional charm to their profusion of
hawthorn-like flowers. The Chinese _Xanthoceras_ is extremely copious
and showy, but of brief duration and ill-fitted for cutting. Bushes of
yellow Broom and double-flowering golden Furze can easily be had after
January. _Jasminum nudiflorum_ may be had in bloom from November till
April, and Forsythia from January. They look well when trained up
to pillars. The early-flowering Clematises may be used to capital
advantage in the same way, from February onward. Although the Mahonias
flower well, their foliage at blooming time is not always comely.
Out-of-doors the American Red-bud makes a handsomer tree than does the
Japanese one; but the latter is preferable for green-house work, as
the flowers are bright and the smallest plants bloom. The Chinese
Wistaria blooms as well in the green-house as it does outside;
indeed, if we introduce some branches of an out-door plant into the
green-house, we can have it in bloom two months ahead of the balance
of the vine still left out-of-doors. Hereabout we grow Wistarias as
standards, and they bloom magnificently. What a sight a big standard
wistaria in the green-house in February would be! Among other shrubs
may be mentioned Shadbush, African Tamarix, Daphne of sorts and
Exochorda. We have also a good many barely hardy plants that may be
wintered well in a cellar or cold pit, and forced into bloom in early
spring. Among these are Japanese Privet, Pittosporum, Raphiolepis,
Hydrangeas and the like.
And for conservatory decoration we can also use with excellent
advantage some of our fine-leaved shrubs, for instance our lovely
Japanese Maples and variegated Box Elder.
_Wm. Falconer._
Glen Cove, N. Y.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Iris tenuis.--_See page 6._]
Plant Notes.
A HALF-HARDY BEGONIA.--When botanizing last September upon the
Cordilleras of North Mexico some two hundred miles south of the United
States Boundary, I found growing in black mould of shaded ledges--even
in the thin humus of mossy rocks--at an elevation of 7,000 to 8,000
feet, a plant of striking beauty, which Mr. Sereno Watson identifies
as _Begonia gracilis_, _HBK._, _var. Martiana_, _A. DC_. From a small
tuberous root it sends up to a height of one to two feet a single
crimson-tinted stem, which terminates in a long raceme of scarlet
flowers, large for the genus and long enduring. The plant is still
further embellished by clusters of Scarlet gemmae in the axils of its
leaves. Mr. Watson writes: "It was in cultivation fifty years and more
ago, but has probably been long ago lost. It appears to be the
most northern species of the genus, and should be the most hardy."
Certainly the earth freezes and snows fall in the high region, where
it is at home.
NORTHERN LIMIT OF THE DAHLIA.--In the same district, and at the same
elevation, I met with a purple flowered variety of _Dahlia coccinea_,
_Cav._ It was growing in patches under oaks and pines in thin dry
soil of summits of hills. In such exposed situations the roots must be
subjected to some frost, as much certainly as under a light covering
of leaves in a northern garden. The Dahlia has not before been
reported, as I believe, from a latitude nearly so high.
_C. G. Pringle._
CEANOTHUS is a North American genus, represented in the Eastern States
by New Jersey Tea, and Red Root (_C. Americanus_ and _C. ovalus_), and
in the West and South-west by some thirty additional species. Several
of these Pacific Coast species are quite handsome and well worthy of
cultivation where they will thrive. Some of the more interesting of
them are figured in different volumes of the _Botanical Magazine_,
from plants grown at Kew, and I believe that the genus is held in
considerable repute by French gardeners.
In a collection of plants made in Southern Oregon, last spring, by Mr.
Thomas Howell, several specimens of _Ceanothus_ occur which are pretty
clearly hybrids between _C. cuneatus_ and _C. prostratus_, two common
species of the region. Some have the spreading habit of the latter,
their flowers are of the bright blue color characteristic of that
species, and borne on slender blue pedicels, in an umbel-like cluster.
But while many of their leaves have the abrupt three-toothed apex of
_C. prostratus_, all gradations can be found from this form to the
spatulate, toothless leaves of _C. cuneatus_. Other specimens have the
more rigid habit of the latter species, and their flowers are white
or nearly so, on shorter pale pedicels, in usually smaller and
denser clusters. On these plants the leaves are commonly those of _C.
cuneatus_, but they pass into the truncated and toothed form proper to
_C. prostratus_.
According to Focke (_Pflanzenmischlinge_, 1881, p. 99), the French
cross one or more of the blue-flowered Pacific Coast species on the
hardier New Jersey Tea, a practice that may perhaps be worthy of trial
by American gardeners. Have any of the readers of GARDEN AND FOREST
ever met with spontaneous hybrids?
_W. Trelease._
WIRE NETTING FOR TREE GUARDS.--On some of the street trees of
Washington heavy galvanized wire netting is used to protect the
bark from injury by horses. It is the same material that is used for
enclosing poultry yards. It comes in strips five or six feet wide, and
may be cut to any length required by the size of the tree. The edges
are held in place by bending together the cut ends of the wires, and
the whole is sustained by staples over the heavy wires at the top and
bottom. This guard appears to be an effective protection and is less
unsightly than any other of which I know, in fact it can hardly
be distinguished at the distance of a few rods. It is certainly an
improvement on the plan of white-washing the trunks, which has been
extensively practiced here since the old guards were removed.
_A. A. Crozier._
Artificial Water.
One of the most difficult parts of a landscape gardener's work is the
treatment of what our grandfathers called "pieces of water" in scenes
where a purely natural effect is desired. The task is especially hard
when the stream, pond or lake has been artificially formed; for then
Nature's processes must be simulated not only in the planting but
in the shaping of the shores. Our illustration partially reveals a
successful effort of this sort--a pond on a country-seat near Boston.
It was formed by excavating a piece of swamp and damming a small
stream which flowed through it. In the distance towards the right the
land lies low by the water and gradually rises as it recedes. Opposite
us it forms little wooded promontories with grassy stretches between.
Where we stand it is higher, and beyond the limits of the picture
to the left it forms a high, steep bank rising to the lawn, on the
further side of which stands the house. The base of these elevated
banks and the promontories opposite are planted with thick masses
of rhododendrons, which flourish superbly in the moist, peaty soil,
protected, as they are, from drying winds by the trees and high
ground. Near the low meadow a long stretch of shore is occupied by
thickets of hardy azaleas. Beautiful at all seasons, the pond is most
beautiful in June, when the rhododendrons are ablaze with crimson and
purple and white, and when the yellow of the azalea-beds--discreetly
separated from the rhododendrons by a great clump of low-growing
willows--finds delicate continuation in the buttercups which fringe
the daisied meadow. The lifted banks then afford particularly
fortunate points of view; for as we look down upon the rhododendrons,
we see the opposite shore and the water with its rich reflected colors
as over the edge of a splendid frame. No accent of artificiality
disturbs the eye despite the unwonted profusion of bloom and variety
of color. All the plants are suited to their place and in harmony with
each other; and all the contours of the shore are gently modulated and
softly connected with the water by luxuriant growths of water plants.
The witness of the eye alone would persuade us that Nature unassisted
had achieved the whole result. But beauty of so suave and perfect a
sort as this is never a natural product. Nature's beauty is wilder if
only because it includes traces of mutation and decay which here are
carefully effaced. Nature suggests the ideal beauty, and the artist
realizes it by faithfully working out her suggestions.
[Illustration: A Piece of Artificial Water.]
Some New Roses.
The following list comprises most of the newer Roses that have been
on trial to any extent in and about Philadelphia during the present
winter:
PURITAN (H. T.) is one of Mr. Henry Bennett's seedlings, and perhaps
excites more interest than any other. It is a cross between Mabel
Morrison and Devoniensis, creamy white in color and a perpetual
bloomer. Its flowers have not opened satisfactorily this winter. The
general opinion seems to be that it requires more heat than is
needed for other forcing varieties. Further trial will be required to
establish its merit.
METEOR (H. T., BENNETT.)--Some cultivators will not agree with me in
classing this among hybrid Teas. In its manner of growth it resembles
some Tea Roses, but its coloring and scanty production of buds in
winter are indications that there is Hybrid Remontant blood in it.
It retains its crimson color after being cut longer than any Rose we
have, and rarely shows a tendency to become purple with age, as other
varieties of this color are apt to do. For summer blooming under glass
it will prove satisfactory. In winter its coloring is a rich velvety
crimson, but as the sun gets stronger it assumes a more lively shade.
MRS. JOHN LAING (H. R., BENNETT,) is a seedling from Francois
Michelon, which it somewhat resembles in habit of growth and color of
flower. It is a free bloomer out-of-doors in summer and forces readily
in winter. Blooms of it have been offered for sale in the stores here
since the first week in December. It is a soft shade of pink in color,
with a delicate lilac tint. It promises to become a general favorite,
as in addition to the qualities referred to, it is a free autumnal
bloomer outside. For forcing it will be tried extensively next winter.
PRINCESS BEATRICE (T., BENNETT,) was distributed for the first time in
this country last autumn, but has so far been a disappointment in
this city. But some lots arrived from Europe too late and misfortunes
befell others, so that the trial can hardly be counted decisive,
and we should not hastily condemn it. Some have admired it for its
resemblance, in form of flower, to a Madame Cuisin, but its color is
not just what we need. In shade it somewhat resembles Sunset, but is
not so effective. It may, however, improve under cultivation, as
some other Roses have done; so far as I know it has not been tried
out-of-doors.
PAPA GONTIER (H. B., NABONNAUD.)--This, though not properly a new
rose, is on trial for the first time in this city. It has become a
great favorite with growers, retailers and purchasers. In habit it
is robust and free blooming, and in coloring, though similar to Bon
Silene, is much deeper or darker. There seems to be a doubt in some
quarters as to whether it blooms as freely as Bon Silene; personally,
I think there is not much difference between the two. Gontier is a
good Rose for outdoor planting.
_Edwin Lonsdale._
Two Ferns and their Treatment.
ADIANTUM FARLEYENSE.--This beautiful Maidenhair is supposed to be a
subfertile, plumose form of _A. tenerum_, which much resembles it,
especially in a young state. For decorative purposes it is almost
unrivaled, whether used in pots or for trimming baskets of flowers
or bouquets. It prefers a warm, moist house and delights in abundant
water. We find it does best when potted firmly in a compost of two
parts loam to one of peat, and with a good sprinkling of sifted coal
ashes. In this compost it grows very strong, the fronds attaining a
deeper green and lasting longer than when grown in peat. When the pots
are filled with roots give weak liquid manure occasionally. This fern
is propagated by dividing the roots and potting in small pots, which
should be placed in the warmest house, where they soon make fine
plants. Where it is grown expressly for cut fronds the best plan is
to plant it out on a bench in about six inches of soil, taking care to
give it plenty of water and heat, and it will grow like a weed.
ACTINIOPTERIS RADIATA.--A charming little fern standing in a genus by
itself. In form it resembles a miniature fan palm, growing about six
inches in height. It is generally distributed throughout the East
Indies. In cultivation it is generally looked upon as poor grower, but
with us it grows as freely as any fern we have. We grow a lot to mix
in with Orchids, as they do not crowd at all. We pot in a compost of
equal parts loam and peat with a few ashes to keep it open, and grow
in the warmest house, giving at all times abundance of water both at
root and overhead. It grows very freely from spores, and will make
good specimens in less than a year. It is an excellent Fern for small
baskets.
_F. Goldring._
Timely Hints About Bulbs.
Spring flowering bulbs in-doors, such as the Dutch Hyacinths, Tulips
and the many varieties of Narcissus, should now be coming rapidly into
bloom. Some care is required to get well developed specimens. When
first brought in from cold frames or wherever they have been stored to
make roots, do not expose them either to direct sunlight or excessive
heat.
A temperature of not more than fifty-five degrees at night is warm
enough for the first ten days, and afterwards, if they show signs of
vigorous growth and are required for any particular occasion, they
may be kept ten degrees warmer. It is more important that they be not
exposed to too much light than to too much heat.