furnished in different quotas in lieu of rent by the villages, but
paid, clothed, and fed by the Prince. But besides this number actually
enrolled, each man has also a substitute, who is similarly instructed
in the use of arms, ready to supply his place if he should be cut off
in battle, or prevented by any other accident.
MIRZA BOZURK, first Minister to the Prince, appeared to me by far the
most superior man whom I saw in Persia. I brought a present to him
from the Envoy, which, however, he advised me to offer to the Prince
in my own name, as it was not the custom in their country to pay a
visit empty-handed to a person of rank. I resisted this, because, in
the first place, I saw no necessity for the visit at any rate, as I was
merely a passenger through the province, and had no business at the
court. I mention this trait of liberality, because it is so singular
in his nation. He talked much of the state of improvement in which
the Prince’s administration had brought the province of _Aderbigian_;
never speaking of his own counsels or co-operation, to which so much
is due, but always referring the whole merit to the talents of his
Prince. He said, that within one year they had brought their artillery
to a state of perfection which might rival that of their enemies the
Russians; that their infantry had now learned the perfect use of arms;
and that, by the acknowledgment of the Russians themselves, the Persian
soldiers were now a match for them. He added, that no pains had been
spared to acquire a knowledge of military tactics, and the theory of
fortification, which they had gleaned from French and Russian books,
translated by the Prince’s order into Persian. The Minister said,
that the Prince was the only person in Persia who had a complete set
of charts, besides drawings of every instrument and weapon used by
Europeans in war. He told me that they had discovered in _Aderbigian_
mines of iron and brass, which, entirely by their own ingenuity, they
made productive; but that they still laboured under the greatest
inconvenience from the want of proper artists and miners, and could not
therefore derive the full profit which they might otherwise expect, or
as yet reduce the price of their produce. According to the Minister,
better guns are now cast at _Tabriz_ than at _Ispahan_; and they had
invented also a small kind of artillery, which was sufficiently light
to be carried by mules keeping pace with the march of their cavalry
over mountains and difficult passes.
When I offered to procure from England any books and other necessaries
to facilitate their operations and give new light to those subjects
upon which they were imperfectly informed; the Minister replied, that
nothing in the world could afford greater satisfaction to the Prince
and himself; but he added, “there is only one thing which England will
keep from our knowledge, as she has done from every other nation,
the art of building ships.” I assured him that England would furnish
Persia not with instructions only, but with masters, as she had done
for Turkey and Russia. He answered, “all this may be very true; but
there is still an art which she possesses in matters of navigation
which she will never disclose to any nation. If it be not so, how is
it possible,” he continued, “that her ships should be so superior to
all others, and that none have ever yet been able to defeat her in
any combat at sea.” I answered, that her superiority consisted not in
the ships, but, by the blessing of God, in the men that were in them;
that, in fact, in building ships we were equalled, if not exceeded, by
the French; and that the superiority could not rest in the vessels,
since a considerable proportion of our navy consisted of prizes taken
in battle. The Minister, however, was unconvinced, and continued to
believe that there was some secret in our naval architecture on which
our success depended. At our parting visit the Minister added, that the
Prince was anxious to have some insight into the history of England,
and desired me to bring with me on my return some book on the subject.
He wished me also to procure for him histories of France and Russia, in
order to compare them with those which he had already got; for, said
he, “the English being known ever to tell the truth, and the French and
Russians to be less scrupulous, the Prince will not be satisfied with
what he has learnt, until He hears it confirmed by an English pen.”
During our residence at his capital, the Prince received intelligence
of the discovery of a lead mine in the territory of _Khalcal_, fourteen
_fursungs_ from _Tabriz_, in the direction in which they had found
mines of saltpetre and copper. As a specimen, a large piece of ore,
almost pure and free from earth, was produced. At _Bakouba_ there is
a mine of sulphur. The district of _Khalcal_ alone furnishes to the
revenue of _Aderbigian_ fifty thousand _tomauns_; the whole of that
revenue was stated to me at seven hundred thousand; but whatever may be
the correctness of this account which I received from a Persian, the
province is certainly the choicest part of Persia that we saw.
The population of _Tabriz_ is to all appearance much exaggerated; I was
told indeed that it contained fifty thousand houses, and two hundred
and fifty thousand persons. There are about two hundred Armenian
families, who live in a _Mahalé_ or parish by themselves. _Tabriz_
manufactures a great number of silk stuffs, which are much used.
During our stay at _Tabriz_ the Prince spent a day in the garden of
HAJEE KHAN MAHOMED. Whenever he wishes to shew any mark of attention,
he sends to let the person know that he will be his guest on such a
day. This sort of visit, however, generally costs the entertainer a
large sum (in this instance two thousand _tomauns_) as the Prince is
followed by his whole household. When he alights from his horse,
shawls and gold stuffs are strewed on the ground, over which he walks:
a part of the ceremony which is called the _Pai-endaz_.
28th. I dined with MIRZA HASSAN, son of the first Minister, MIRZA
BOZURK. There were a number of young and pleasant men, who would have
enlivened any company; but they seemed to vie with each other in the
marvellous. As a specimen; a _Derveish_ had told one, that he was in
his room when a shock of an earthquake threw him on the floor, where
he lay for a long time in a trance; and on recovering, found himself,
to his great surprise, extended in the court-yard, close under his
apartment: a second shock having projected him senseless out of the
window. Of slight-of-hand they recounted the most wonderful feats; and
to all this, they swear by each other’s heads, eyes, sons, and fathers.
The surest prognostic, indeed, of a falsehood is the number of emphatic
oaths by which it is preceded. The Persians are called, with sufficient
propriety, the Frenchmen of the East; they are indeed a talkative,
complimentary, and insincere people, yet in manners agreeable and
enlivening.
A description of the etiquettes of the court, or even of private
life, in Persia, would be a work of endless and trifling minutiæ.
They are such however, and so well recognised, and so easily observed
and imitated by every class from their youth, and indeed (in the
government under which they live) so strongly mark the gradations of
rank, that no person, even of the meanest condition, is ignorant of
his proper situation, and of the several etiquettes attached to it.
In the education of a young man of family, the principal feature is
the course of instruction which he receives in the forms and phrases
of society. For that purpose, from the earliest age of the pupil,
masters attend who teach the modes of salutation, and the appropriate
compliments to superiors and inferiors. They also instruct him, where
to sit on entering a _Mujlis_ (or assembly); of whom he has the right
of precedence, &c. and greater importance is assigned to this knowledge
than almost to any thing else. Nothing marks this more strongly than
the forms which gradually ascend in a regular scale from the peasant
to the King. The first Minister appears under the same discipline of
humiliation before his Majesty, as the _Rayat_, before the _Ket Khoda_
of his village; and it is somewhat ridiculous to see that man, who sat
in state in his _Dewan_, surrounded by a numerous circle of obsequious
attendants, performing the next moment, in his turn, all the offices
of one of those attendants before the King. In Persia, and I believe
generally over the East, a son never sits down in the presence of his
father. Thus the King’s sons always stand before him, and are regarded
only as the first of his servants. Prince ABBAS MIRZA, who is Governor
of _Aderbigian_, and Heir Apparent of the crown, when he repairs to the
court of his father, appears there like any one of the other sons, with
the single advantage of taking the precedence of the rest.
The King is never approached by his subjects without frequent
inclinations of the body; and when the person introduced to his
presence has reached a certain distance, he waits until the King orders
him to proceed; upon which he leaves his shoes, and walks forwards with
a respectful step to a second spot, until His Majesty again directs
him to advance. No one ever sits before the King except relations of
Kings, Poets, learned and Holy Men, and Embassadors: His Ministers
and Officers of State are never admitted to the privilege. The place
of honour is on the left. When an inferior visits a superior, he sits
at a distance, and not on the same _musnud_. He places himself on the
_Nummud_ (the long carpet that skirts the room); nor even there, till
he is desired: and, in approaching his superior, he is very careful
to cover himself with his outer-coat, and to sit down directly on his
heels, so that his feet are completely hidden. When a servant comes
before his master, he makes an inclination of his body; and, when he
goes away, he walks backwards until he reaches the door, where he makes
another inclination.
There is as much etiquette in smoking as in sitting. No inferior calls
for his _kaleoon_, until the superior has given the lead. No one can
smoke before the King; and only particular persons before the Princes.
I had some conversation with a native of _Mazanderan_, who extolled
the virtues of his countrymen, and complained of the ill-conduct of
their rulers, in equal proportion. He himself had been despoiled of
his property, and reduced almost to beggary; but, as he added, many
from his province had gone to India, and by their abilities on a more
favourable ground, had realized fortunes.
He told me that there were two entrances into _Mazanderan_; one, by
the _Pile Rud-bar_, the road through which leads off the bridge over
which we crossed the _Kizzil Ozan_; and the other, by the way of
_Resht_ on the borders of the sea. The _Jungle_, or wild woodland,
is so impenetrable, that, according to his illustration, an arrow
discharged from a bow cannot force it, but strikes on the exterior
reeds. The _Pile Rud-bar_ is perhaps the ancient _Fauces Hyrcaniæ_;
and the accounts of OLEARIUS, and other modern travellers, as well
as the intelligence that I received, confirm the original tremendous
descriptions. I had been told at _Teheran_, that men are stationed at
different intervals to give notice to travellers of the approach of
others in an opposite direction; for in the narrowest part two mules
cannot pass, nor can they turn back. I was further told at _Tabriz_,
that the great causeway built by SHAH ABBAS, is falling into total
decay; and in some places is so much ruined, that though mules and
horses may still travel upon it, camels can no longer be used. The
avenues therefore to _Mazanderan_ might be successfully guarded by
twenty expert fusileers, against any force that could be brought. The
people indeed had frequently petitioned their government to repair the
causeway; but it has been the policy of the court to leave it in its
present state, that in case of any necessity the King might retire
there in safety, and defend himself in the inaccessible fastnesses
which the condition of the province thus opposes to an enemy.
The vessels which navigate the _Caspian_, are (according to the
same authority) very rude and ill-built, being planks put together
without any caulking to their seams; the people are therefore obliged
incessantly to bail the water off in buckets; for they have not learnt
the use of pumps, a knowledge indeed to which alone he attributed the
superiority of the Russian vessels.
He told me that the people of _Ghilan_ have a language of their own,
distinct from both the Persian and the Turkish, and bearing indeed
no affinity to either; although, on questioning him further on the
subject, I found that they had no books written in that language, and
that it was merely a _Patois_, or corrupted Persian, which the common
people spoke.
In continuing our conversation, he mentioned that near the town of
_Ashreff_, on the West of _Asterabad_, is a tribe of people called
_Goudar_, in number about one hundred houses, or five hundred souls,
who inhabit the wild country in the neighbourhood. If my _Mazanderan_
informer may be credited, they are of no religion; and in the
intercourse of the sexes, appears to descend low into savage life. A
man feeling an inclination for a woman, asks her mother’s leave to
carry her out into the woods, where he passes two or three days with
her; and then either lives with her himself, or returns her to her
mother. Their principal food is the flesh of the wild hog, of which
there are vast numbers in the district. These hogs are killed by the
children of the tribe, who are exercised almost from the time that
they can walk, in the bow and the matchlock, and are described, in
consequence, as never erring shots.
From him too I received an account of their more celebrated neighbours
the _Turcomans_, the confines of whose territory are close to
_Asterabad_. They are _Sunnis_, and in consequence execrated by the
Persians, who call them _Giaours_ or Infidels. They live in tribes
or _eels_, being subject to no particular master. Each tribe has,
indeed, a nominal chief chosen by themselves, but possessing no further
authority among them than that of settling differences, and arranging
their civil economy. As a people, they have no fixed habitations; but
carry about the tents in which they live, and which the Persians call
_Kara Khader_, black tents. Their general characteristics are those
common to all wandering nations; great hospitality within their own
boundaries, and universal depredation abroad. The _Turcomans_ make
incursions into Persia; frequently crossing the wide intervening desert
of sand, and surprising and carrying away from the centre of towns
and villages men, women, and children. They, even now, extend their
inroads as far as _Koom_, _Kashan_, _Langarood_, _Nusserabad_; and the
ruined villages about _Koom_ were destroyed by them. These Raids, which
are called _Chappow_, are performed on horseback by parties of twenty
or thirty with incredible speed and activity. Their horses (renowned
over the East for swiftness and hardiness) support them admirably in
these expeditions, as like their riders they undergo immense fatigue
with a very small portion of food. They are, therefore, bought by the
neighbouring nations at vast prices; which, (with the sale among other
tribes of their captives, and of their camels, sheep, &c.) supply the
chief source of the _Turcoman’s_ wealth, and accumulate immense sums
in ready money. The captives lead a wretched life: if young, they are
sent into the interior to tend the cattle; but when they grow old and
unfit for service, they are killed by their masters; who comfort their
consciences by placing the skin of the deceased at the threshold of
their door, in the belief that he approaches Paradise in proportion as
his skin gets pierced with holes and worn out. On the other hand, their
hospitality, the theme of so many pens, is not exaggerated. A stranger,
laden with gold and precious stones, who claims protection at the tent
of a _Turcoman_ is sure to find it. He remains there as long as he
pleases, his person and his property are in perfect safety, and, when
he is desirous to depart, he is escorted by one of the tribe, which
alone is a sufficient protection to him through the whole of their own
district, and through every other kindred people. Caravans thus travel
from _Asterabad_ to _Astrachan_ without molestation, and in the full
security of the property which they convey. _Turcomania_ is said to
be extremely populous, but wholly uncultivated. The people feel not
the want of corn, and are content therefore to live upon the flesh
of horses, camels, and sheep, and on the milk of mares and camels.
They excavate a large hole in the ground, in which they make a fire;
and, placing the meat in the embers, cover it up until it be baked.
To the Northward of _Turcomania_ are the _Kamchauks_, who inhabit a
desert, and are reported to be most ferocious and warlike, and hitherto
unconquered. All these inhabit the Eastern borders of the _Caspian
Sea_, called by the Persians _Dereea-Kulzum_.[41] The Persians are at
present at peace with the _Turcomans_, although they are still equally
liable to be surprised by their _Chappow_ parties. In the time even of
SHAH ABBAS these depredations were carried to an inconceivable extent.
AGA MAHOMED KHAN, the late King, made several attempts against them
without any profit; and particularly indeed against the _Kamchauks_,
where he met with a defeat. In former times the _Turcomans_ used to
make their attacks on the coasts of _Ghilan_ and _Mazanderan_ in
boats. Now they are not so depredatory; because the country is more
inaccessible, and the people, according to my informer, are more
dextrous in their matchlock guns and bows; so much, indeed, are they
improved, that, in the true Persian style, he added, “Twenty men of
_Mazanderan_ will beat one thousand _Turcomans_.”
We recommenced our journey on the 1st of June; and on that day waited
upon MIRZA BOZURK to pay our respects to him on leaving _Tabriz_. He
told us that we were now departing at a most lucky hour, for that
this had been the morning fixed some time ago by the astrologers as
the most fortunate for the Prince to leave his capital, preparatory to
his usual summer campaign. He informed us, among other news, (that had
just reached him from _Constantinople_) that the Turks had defeated the
Russians, and had taken so many prisoners that they were selling them
in the _bazars_ at _Constantinople_.
CHAP. XVI.
TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.
PERSIAN TRAVELLING--DEPARTURE FROM TABRIZ--BEAUTY OF
THE COUNTRY--LAKE OF SHAHEE--STATION OF RAHDARS--KHOI;
TOWN; GARDENS; PLAIN--AGRICULTURE--ELAUTS--CONVENIENCE OF
TENTS--COURDISTAN ROBBERS--HERDS OF MARES--FRONTIERS OF PERSIA
AND TURKEY--BAYAZID--MOUNT ARARAT--RECEPTION IN THE TENTS OF THE
ELAUTS--DIADIN; THE EUPHRATES--IBRAHIM PACHA; VISIT TO HIS ENEMY TIMUR
BEG; RECEPTION AT THE CASTLE OF TURPA CALEH--DEPOPULATION OF THE
COUNTRY--OMEN--RIVER ARAXES--CONDUCT OF THE AGA OF ALWAR.
The mode of travelling in Persia is easy and commodious. In winter
they generally begin their journey at sun-rise. The baggage proceeds,
and then the master. He breakfasts either before he sets off, or in a
more pleasant spot on the road, (regarding in each case the advantage
of a stream of running water as the motive of preference;) and thus
he allows time for his luggage to reach the stage before him, and his
people to prepare every thing for his reception, spread his carpets,
and get the necessary articles for cooking his dinner. On his arrival
he eats his _choshtá_, or intermediate meal, and then sleeps. At
sun-set he takes another repast (his _noshtá_); and his servants then
pack up every thing ready for his departure the next morning. He
proceeds by easy stages, generally from five to six leagues a-day,
which, as he always rides his own horses, is a good day’s journey at
the common rate of travelling. If he has a _Mehmandar_ with him, he is
fed and lodged and travels entirely at the public expence. When the
_Mehmandar_ arrives at the village, he produces his _firman_, (in which
the kind and quantity of the articles to be provided are specified;)
and demands a correspondent supply from the inhabitants.
1st June, 1809. We left the _Khoi_ gate of _Tabriz_ at seven o’clock,
and in six hours and a half reached _Ali Shah_, a distance called by
the people of the country six _fursungs_, and which I reckoned at
twenty-four miles. From the top of our lodging at _Ali Shah_, I could
see the mountain near which _Tabriz_ is situated, I can therefore place
exactly the bearing of our route, at N. 75 W. We kept to the Eastward
of the plain in consequence of the difficulties along the road through
the centre, which was then in many places overflowed.
Near _Tabriz_ on the left, are some gardens and houses, called
_Hucknavar_; then the village of _Mayan_. To the Eastward of the city
itself, is a conspicuous hill called the _Bahalil Tapé_, which abounds
in every kind of game. Having travelled three miles from _Tabriz_ on
a bearing nearly N. we came to a bridge of nine large and three small
arches, thrown over the river _Agi_, which, flowing from E. to W. falls
at length into the lake of _Shahee_. The river rises near _Ardebil_;
and is fordable by mules where we crossed it, though we preferred the
bridge, which happened indeed to be in better repair than those between
_Teheran_ and _Tabriz_. At about four miles from the city, we passed
a village called _Alwar_; and three miles further another of the same
name, each surrounded with a cultivated territory, intersected by a
thousand dikes and _kanauts_. The greatest part of the plain is of a
soil strongly impregnated with salt; and as in every other district
of the same quality, we witnessed the curious effects of the vapour,
(called _Ser Aub_) which overspread the plain. About four miles before
we reached _Ali Shah_, we crossed a bridge of four arches, over a pool
of standing salt water. The industry of agriculture was visible, and
the crops of barley and corn were luxuriant and promising.
The plain of _Tabriz_ extends far to the W. and S.; the mountains
which border it on those directions being just designed in very light
tints in the horizon. To the Northward and Eastward it is bounded by
hard-featured lands of an inferior elevation, indicating on their
surfaces the minerals below. There are several pretty villages situated
to the North, on the declivity of the mountain about three or four
miles from _Ali Shah_, and which, together with it and others to the W.
are in the _Mahalé_ or district of _Ghunéh_.
The lake of _Shahee_ is about seven _fursungs_ from _Ali Shah_, and the
middle of the long mountain (which extends into the centre of the lake,
and which now appeared isolated on the horizon of the plain) bore S. 50
W. of our station.
In my progress to _Constantinople_, I traversed a country in its
conformation most picturesque, and in its productions most luxuriant.
No traveller in any season, or in any direction, could have passed
these scenes without admiration; but I saw them in all the richness of
spring, contrasted with a winter in Persia; and after the leafless and
barren region which I had passed, I enjoyed doubly the wild prodigality
of vegetation, which in the early part of the year is displayed through
Asia Minor. The impression therefore of delight which I experienced,
was strongest at the first point of contrast; and the first verdure and
foliage which I saw near _Tabriz_, appeared to me to constitute the
very perfection of landscape.
2d June. If a writer of romance would describe beautiful scenery, he
might select our departure from _Ali Shah_. We began our journey by a
most charming moonlight; and the sky was delightfully serene. Just as
the sun was rising we reached an orchard, (full of every species of
fruit, particularly almonds, and) skirting the town of _Shebester_;
which, embosomed in trees of every hue, was situated on the declivity
of the mountains on our right.