to be present. From the _Casvin_ gate, at which we left the city,
we proceeded about half a mile to a fine even part of the country,
where a tent was pitched for the King. All his new raised troops were
arranged on the right and in front of it. On the left, facing the
tent, we stood in a line, near the Ministers, MIRZA SHEFFEEA, and the
_Ameen-ed-Doulah_. Directly opposite his Majesty were eight of his
sons, richly dressed in velvet and gold-brocade coats, all glittering
with gold and jewels. One of these carried by his side his father’s
bow and his quiver thickly set with precious stones. The Master of the
Ceremonies, in the field, was a young Persian who carried an ornamented
and gilded spear. One or two of the Princes were mounted on white
horses, the legs, belly, and lower parts of the buttock of which were
dyed a rich orange colour, terminated at the top by little flowers. The
Persians much admire this species of disfigurement, nor in the East is
their taste singular. At about fifty paces distance from the Princes,
stood the King’s band of music with a troop of _looties_ and their
monkies. The state elephants were on the ground, on the largest of
which the King, seated in a very elegant _howdar_, rode forth from the
city.
When he alighted he was saluted by a discharge of _zombooreks_; the
salute indeed is always fired when the King alights from his horse
or mounts. In one of the courts of the palace at _Shiraz_ we had
previously noticed this artillery. The _zomboorek_ is a small gun
mounted on the back of a camel. The conductor from his seat behind
guides the animal by a long bridle, and loads and fires the little
cannon without difficulty. He wears a coat of orange-coloured cloth,
and a cap with a brass front; and his camel carries a triangular green
and red flag. Of these there were one hundred on the field; and when
their salute was fired they retreated in a body behind the King’s tent,
where the camels were made to kneel down. Collectively they make a
fine military appearance. This species of armament is common to many
Asiatic states, yet the effect at best is very trifling. The Persians,
however, place great confidence in their execution; and MIRZA SHEFFEEA,
in speaking of them to the Envoy, said, “These are what the Russians
dread.”
No exhibition could be more miserable than the races, the immediate
object of our excursion. They are intended to try rather the bottom
than the speed of the horses. The prize is what the King may be pleased
to give to the first jockies. On this occasion there were two sets,
that came severally from a distance of twelve and twenty-one miles;
each consisted of about twelve ill-looking horses, mounted by boys of
ten or twelve years old, who were wretchedly dressed in a shirt and
pair of breeches, boots and cap. In each race the King’s horses won,
of course. Horses are trained in this manner for a reason sufficiently
obvious, in a country where the fortunes of the state and of every
individual are exposed to such sudden changes. Every one likes to be
prepared with some mode of escape, in case of pursuit; now horses thus
inured to running will continue on the gallop for a day together,
whilst a high conditioned and well-fed animal would drop at the end of
ten miles. For this reason the King always keeps himself well supplied
with a stud of this description, as a resource in the event of an
accident. When, on the death of his uncle, AGA MAHOMED KHAN, He was
summoned (by HAJEE IBRAHIM, the Minister of the late King) to assume as
the heir the sovereignty, he thus travelled from _Shiraz_ to _Teheran_,
a distance of five hundred miles in six days.
In the interval of the race, the King sent the Master of the Ceremonies
to desire the Envoy and his suite to come before him. We dismounted
from our horses, and proceeded with the Prime Minister and the
_Ameen-ed-Doulah_, before the King’s presence, making low bows as we
advanced. When we were about twenty steps from his Majesty we stopped
and made our final low bow. The King was seated on a high chair under
a canopy, the sides of which were formed of gold cloth, and of looking
glasses. The chair itself was beautifully embroidered with enamelled
flowers and other ornaments; on one of the arms was a pot of flowers,
and on the other a vase of rose-water. On one side was spread a velvet
and gold cloth carpet with the pearl pillow. The King was in his
riding dress, a close coat of purple velvet embroidered in pearl, the
sheep-skin cap, and a pair of _Bulgar_ boots. As he was placed in a
good light, we had an excellent view of him. His manners are perfectly
easy and unconstrained, with much dignity and affability. He first
inquired after the Envoy’s health, of whose good qualities the two
Ministers then entered into an immense eulogium, praising him in terms
the most extravagant. Then the names of all the party were mentioned
to the King, and each was asked how he did. All the conversation was
complimentary; and when the comparison was made between us and the
French, the King said, “they were _haivans_, beasts, wild men, savages.
These are gentlemen.”
After the whole was over we returned to our horses. The King then
mounted, and the salute was fired from the _zombooreks_. His infantry
first marched off the ground; they were dressed differently in black
or in crimson-velvet jackets, in loose breeches of crimson or yellow
silk, black sheep-skin caps and light boots. The King passed us at
a distance on horseback, and we made our bows. He was preceded by a
body of _chatters_, who are dressed with fantastical caps on their
heads, and lively coloured clothes. No other person was near him, nor
indeed is any other permitted. The King of Persia is an insulated
being, alone in his court. How different is the state of the _Sultan_
at _Constantinople_, who is almost concealed by the crowds of his
attendants. The Princes followed, and then the mob. After this we
repaired to a tent, where the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_ had prepared a Persian
breakfast for us.
On the 26th, the negotiating parties met to discuss a point reserved
in the Treaty. The conference terminated without any decision: and in
this state of uncertainty the question remained for three days, when we
were told that it had been decided to our satisfaction; and that I was
to see the King on the 30th, and to depart for England as soon after as
possible.
On the 30th, accordingly the Envoy and I breakfasted with the Minister,
in the expectation of our introduction to the King. His Majesty,
however, had gone to ride to _Shem-Iroun_ (“the Candle of Persia,”) a
village under the mountain, celebrated for the beauty of the situation
and the salubrity of its air. We remained with the Minister all the
morning. The _Ameen-ed-Doulah_ was there; his spirits were depressed by
the intelligence which he had received from _Ispahan_, (the government
of his son) that the melting of the snow and rain had so swoln the
_Zaiande-rood_, that it had overflowed and injured the country to the
amount of three lacks of piastres. It had destroyed, besides many
houses and buildings, a large _bund_ or dam, nearly opposite to the
_Chahar Bagh No_. The _bund_ was the work of ABBAS, and had cost about
twenty times the labour of that at _Kohrood_. The whole damage was
reckoned at thirty lacks of piastres. _Kanauts_ were filled up, and
large tracts of rich and productive land were rendered useless for
the year. At _Ispahan_, the water filled the under arches of the fine
bridge of _Aliverdy Khan_, that goes into the great _Chahar Bagh_. This
inundation extended over many districts. An express announced that the
river at _Pool Dallauk_ was over the bridge: and that the country was
in many places so inundated as to be only passable with much danger and
difficulty. The great salt swamp was particularly deep.
The 13th of the month _Sefer_ is looked upon as most unlucky among the
Persians; they do not keep in the house on this day, but rather walk
out into the fields, in order that nothing may disturb their humours,
for a quarrel with any one on this day will entail misfortune through
the remainder of the year.
On the 31st we went to the King. At this audience He was seated in
a room in a square court called the _Gulistan_, a name derived from
the roses, with which (intermixed with cypress and _chenar_ trees) it
was planted. We were introduced into it by the two Ministers, through
a door small and mean, like those in other parts of the palace, and
which are obviously adapted for more easy defence in the event of any
sudden alarm. In the centre of the garden is a _Koola-frangee_, built
by AGA MAHOMED KHAN. The garden itself was arranged in squares, with
some miserable palings. Peacocks and hens, great favourites in Persia,
were every where walking about. After having paraded through the garden
in various directions, (for this also is a part of the ceremonial)
we finally approached the presence. We took off our slippers at some
distance, and walking on the bare stones, stepped up a difficult
staircase into a small and elegant room, in which his Majesty was
seated. At the foot of the staircase was a row of eunuchs; and at the
top several officers. At our entrance the King desired us to be seated,
but we excused ourselves and stood. His Majesty’s throne was that on
which he had appeared at our first audience. The Envoy had complained
to the Minister, that on _that_ occasion we had no favourable
opportunity of seeing the King; and his Majesty had probably been
informed of the disappointment, and had condescended in consequence to
gratify our curiosity by transfering his throne to a more favourable
position, and displaying himself upon it in all the magnificence of his
state. He was dressed in a light coat of scarlet and gold cloth; on
his shoulders were large layers of pearl and precious stones. On each
of his arms were three rows of jewels called the _bazebunds_; these
are his finest jewels, one of which (the _Dereea Nore_) is one of the
largest in the world. Though set in a clumsy manner, they had a rich
and royal effect. Round his waist he wore a band about four inches
broad of pearl, connected in the middle by a clasp, the centre of which
was an emerald of an immense size. In this band he wore a brilliant
dagger; from it also dangled a tassel of pearl, which he continually
kept in his hand as a plaything. His _kaleoon_ is a beautiful toy: it
stood in the left corner of the throne, and was one blaze of precious
stones.
On the right of his throne stood four pages, one holding his crown,
another his shield and mace, a third his bow and arrows, and a fourth
his sword. All these are beautiful, particularly his crown: it is in
every part thickly inlaid with pearl, emeralds, rubies and diamonds; on
the summit is a _gika_ of precious stones, on the sides of which are
plumes of herons’ feathers.
His Majesty talked with much familiarity; and asked us, what news from
the _Yenzee Duneea_, that is, the new world, as they call America.
He inquired, “What sort of a place is it? How do you get at it? Is
it under ground, or how?” He then talked of our government; and
appeared aware that the Kings of England could do little without the
intervention of their parliament. In the explanations which followed
this subject, his Persian Majesty was visibly astonished that any
limitation could be placed to Royal authority. The conversation turned;
and the King talked of BUONAPARTE, and launched out in general terms
against the French. After the introduction of some other topics, His
Majesty dismissed us by a nod of his head, desiring that a _kalaat_
might be given to me, and that a _Mehmandar_ might be appointed to
attend me on my journey.
On the 4th April his Persian Majesty sent me my _kalaat_ or dress of
honour: it consisted of a _kaba_ or brocade coat that covered me all
over; a small outer coat trimmed with fur over the shoulders and down
the back, called the _coordee_; a brocade sash; and (what I believe
is considered a great distinction) a sword. The King was pleased to
ask what I should like best to receive as a mark of his Royal regard,
and when it was left to his Majesty’s decision, He sent me a sword
which he had worn himself. His own name was upon it, by which all his
Majesty’s swords are known. All these things were contained in a piece
of white linen (the sword lying on the top), and were brought in some
state by an officer of the royal household. When they were put into my
hands, I carried them respectfully to my head, and then retired and put
on the different articles. When I came out again full dressed, every
body congratulated me by a “_moobarek bashed_,” (“good luck attend
you.”) I continued in this garb for the remainder of the day, although,
according to Persian etiquette, I ought to have worn it for the three
days following the investiture.
In the evening we went to the Prime Minister’s, and were shewn
the Treaty with France, signed and ratified at _Finkenstein_, by
BUONAPARTE, in May 1807. It was written on vellum, in a beautiful
French hand, and inserted in a cover of black velvet, curiously
and elegantly wrought with a spread eagle at each corner, and the
initial N in the centre, in a wreath of gold embroidery. The Great
Seal was pendant from it, inserted in a plain gold box. The treaty
was countersigned by TALLEYRAND; and by MARET, the Plenipotentiary
appointed to treat with MIRZA REZA, the Persian Plenipotentiary. I
copied this document (consisting of fourteen articles) in the room, and
as we went away, the Minister sent the Envoy the Commercial Treaty,
which contained twenty-eight articles.
The 6th was observed as a holiday among the Persians, as the
commemoration of that, when HOSSEIN’S head, which had been severed from
his body by YEZID at _Kerbelai_, was buried, after an interval of forty
days.
The affairs of Persia are conducted with a publicity which would ill
accord with the diplomacy of Europe. As that stipulation, which was the
surest evidence of the permanent dispositions of the Court, remained
unfulfilled; the Envoy on the 9th of April dispatched, by JAFFER ALI
KHAN and myself, an official note on the subject to the Ministers,
which he desired them to lay before the King. We carried it to the
_Der a Khonéh Shah_, or gate of the King’s palace, where there are
offices for the Ministers and Secretaries to transact the business
of the state; and where they assemble every day to be ready whenever
the King may call them. Here we seated ourselves in the public room
among all the officers of the court, waiting for MIRZA SHEFFEEA, and
the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_, who were then before the King. In a back room
were men counting money; in that, in which we sat, were the Chief
Secretary, MIRZA REZA, and ISMAEL BEG DAMGAUNEE, (the King’s favourite,
and commander of the body-guard) and several others all occupied in
writing, talking, or smoking. When the Ministers arrived, I delivered
the public letter accompanied by a private note from the Envoy. MIRZA
SHEFFEEA then unfolded the official note. There were perhaps twenty
people in the court near the window where the _Mirza_ sat, who looked
over the paper, and knew its contents as soon and as well as the
Minister himself; and all my expostulations could not procure their
removal. When the Minister had read it, he told us he would lay it
before the King, and then desired us to retire to another room, where
we might eat, drink, and put ourselves at our ease, until the King
should send for us.
We went to a room in another part of the palace, and sat there full
five hours, during which time we had a visit from a son of the
_Ameen-ed-Doulah_, a young man who has the great post of Comptroller
of the Household to the King. His business is to provide for the
King’s kitchen, to see every thing before it goes to the King, and
to superintend every part of the eating and drinking concerns of
the establishment. Whilst we were seated with him, four round trays
of lettuces, in the centre of which was a gold vase of vinegar and
syrup, Were brought before him. He inspected them, tasted the syrup,
and approved them fit for his Majesty’s eating. After that, two young
Georgian slaves were brought in for sale, for one of whom the master
asked one hundred and fifty _tomauns_. The five hours, which we passed
here, were long and melancholy: the only amusements which were provided
to cheer us, were a dish of lettuces, the chief carver, and some
specimens of writing: on the latter indeed every one in the company,
except myself, could comment at full length. The Persians are great
admirers of fine writing, or, more strictly, of penmanship, to excel in
which requires, according to their estimate, a practice of twenty years.
At length we were summoned before the King. Preceded by the two
Ministers, we passed through the same dirty door, into the same garden
in which we had been at the last audience: we made as many bows as
before, and took off our slippers at the same place; but water had
been thrown on the ground, and this last ceremony was therefore very
disagreeably contrasted with our former introduction; for instead of
the fine gold-wrought carpet in the King’s room, we were now reduced
to stand on a wet brick pavement by the side of a basin of water.
His Majesty having first inquired after the Envoy’s health, and made
some preliminary compliments, reverted to the official note which had
been communicated to him that morning by his Ministers. After a short
explanation, the King proceeded; and seating himself erect on his
throne, in a convenient talking position, talked without intermission
for a considerable time with much animation and action. We then
returned to the room which we had first entered in the morning.
The Prime Minister sat down close to the window to return an answer
to the Envoy’s official communication. Several servants, who were at
the window, read this note, word by word as it was written; so that
the original and the answer were equally well known to the public. The
_Mirza_ repeated to us his letter, and then sending the attendants
away, desired to have some conversation with us. The discussion was
unsatisfactory, and we returned.
In these circumstances the decision of the Envoy’s character secured
the object of his mission. The point was gained, and it was settled
accordingly that he should see the King on the morrow. On the morrow
accordingly, Mr. BRUCE and I, dressed in our _kalaats_, attended him to
the King.
His Majesty was seated in the _Koola_ built by AGA MAHOMED KHAN, in
the _Gulistan_. He was on a chair, and dressed in a shawl coat. He was
very gracious, told the Envoy that he had determined upon our alliance,
promised that the French should be dismissed, and hoped that after
the decision which he had thus made, His Brother of England would not
dissent.
The room was covered on all its sides with looking-glass; of this
also, the dome which surmounted the whole, was composed. A handsome
chandelier was suspended from the centre, and three fountains of water
played beneath it.
On the 15th Mr. BRUCE was sent to _Bushire_ to proceed to India. The
French, in consequence of the Envoy’s successful representations,
were preparing to leave _Teheran_ immediately. Their Embassador,
GENERAL GARDANNE, wanted to go to Russia through Georgia; but the
court of Persia justly fearing in such a quarter the influence of that
resentment, (which, since the signing of our Preliminary Treaty the
French had not scrupled to express) refused the permission; and the
King ordered his son, the Prince Governor of _Aderbigian_, to give the
French mission an escort of one hundred men, _by the way of Arz-roum_,
and on no account to permit any deviation from that route.
We went before the King; His Majesty’s conversation was quite
enlivening. He swore that it was by Him that BUONAPARTE was made the
man that he is, and that in the course of the next year he would be
destroyed. We received His Majesty’s letter to the King of England. It
was richly gilt and ornamented with flowers. The seal was on a separate
piece of paper, and placed at the foot of the letter; according to
an old Persian etiquette, when the King addresses an equal: when He
writes to an inferior, the seal is affixed to the top. In composition,
Persian critics pronounced this letter perfect; the Chief Secretary had
been employed in it several days; and that to the Minister for Foreign
Affairs was intended to be equally fine, and indeed to comprehend all
the politics of the world within its pages.
Under these circumstances, on the night of the 23d, a letter arrived
from the Governor-General in India, of which it might be improper to
disclose the contents, further than to remark, that they placed His
Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary in a situation of peculiar embarrassment,
from which nothing but the most friendly disposition in the Persian
court could have relieved him. It is due to the King of Persia himself
to add, that He condescended to treat Sir HARFORD JONES on this
occasion with the most gratifying evidences of his protection and
individual favour: and His Ministers united in displaying the greatest
personal kindness towards us. Throughout the whole management of a
new and very delicate situation, their proceedings were so plain, so
upright, and so cheering; so eager to shew respect and confidence to
the Envoy, that we regarded them with the liveliest gratitude; and felt
relieved by finding among strangers all the heart and principle of
countrymen and brothers.
The French Embassador was already dismissed; and in a few days the
King sent an order to the remainder of the legation to quit _Teheran_
immediately. The people were then as inveterate against the French as
they had before been disposed to court them. When Messrs. JOUANNIN and
NERCIAT prepared to obey this order, and were leaving the city, the
mule-drivers (hired by the King for the conveyance of their baggage,
and sent forwards in the usual form) stopped at the gate, and cutting
the lading from their beasts, threw every thing upon the ground, and
ran off. One of the Frenchmen struck a mule-driver in the breast with
his dagger.
On the 29th MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, brother-in-law to the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_,
and nephew to the late Prime Minister HAJEE IBRAHIM, was appointed as
Envoy Extraordinary from the King of Persia to accompany me to England.
The particulars of his history, which, I learned on good authority,
may afford some lights on the internal administration of his country,
and will at least be acceptable to those who were interested by his
appearance at the Court of London.
MIRZA ABUL HASSAN was born at _Shiraz_ in the year of the _Hejera_
1190, or 1776 of the Christian Æra. He was the second son of MIRZA
MAHOMED ALI, a man famous in Persia as an accomplished scholar, and who
was one of the Chief Secretaries and _Mirzas_ of the celebrated NADIR
SHAH. His father’s services had nearly been requited by an ignominious
and cruel death, when the hand of Providence interposed for his safety,
to strike with more severity the head of his atrocious master. NADIR
SHAH, in one of those paroxysms of cruelty so common to him during
the latter years of his life, ordered that MIRZA MAHOMED ALI should
be burnt alive, together with two Hindoos, who also had incurred
his displeasure. The unfortunate _Mirza_, on hearing his sentence,
remonstrated with the tyrant, entreating him that he might at least be
permitted to die alone; and that his last moments might not be polluted
by the society of men, who were of a different faith from his own, and
on whom he had been taught to look with a religious abhorrence. To
this the _Shah_ consented, remitting his death until the next morning,
whilst the Hindoos suffered in that same hour. That very night NADIR
SHAH was assassinated in his tent, and MIRZA MAHOMED ALI was saved.
The family of MIRZA ABUL HASSAN rose to its greatest power during
the reign of AGA MOHAMED SHAH, predecessor to the present King. The
_Mirza’s_ father died in the service of KERIM KHAN; his uncle HAJEE
IBRAHIM KHAN (uncle by his mother’s side) attained the post of Prime
Vizier, whilst himself and the other branches of his family enjoyed the
greatest share in the administration of the affairs of the state. It
was somewhat before the death of AGA MOHAMED SHAH, that HAJEE IBRAHIM
bestowed his daughter in marriage on his nephew, after a long and
singular courtship. A sister of his wife’s is married to MAHOMED TAKI
MIRZA, one of the King’s sons; and a second to the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_,
the second _Vizier_.