lower parts of which were entirely destroyed. We saw, however, on the
right, a row of camels’ and men’s heads intermixed; and under them a
row of horses’ and men’s heads, which were demolished from the horse’s
eye downwards. In front of these, at the distance of about four feet,
was part of a figure on a horse, the King as before, holding a bow
and four arrows in his right hand. We supposed that this might be the
commencement of a hunting piece. [Plate XI.]
Our research terminated in a most perfect sculpture: the extreme
interest of which only increased our regret, that the shortness of our
time would not allow us to give it all the observation and study which
it required. This piece contained a greater number of objects than any
of the others, and a much greater diversity of characters. The surface
of the rock is here divided into a variety of unequal compartments, all
of which are occupied by a multitude of figures. In the middle, is a
rather reduced copy of the second relievo which I have described (that
of the King and the suppliant) except that, facing the King there is an
additional personage with a hand extended holding a ring. In the first
row, at the top on the right, are a number of slight figures with their
arms folded. The second is filled with a crowd, of which some carry
baskets. The third is equally covered; and in the right corner there is
a man conducting a lion by a chain. In the fourth, and just opposite to
the King, is a very remarkable groupe, whose loose and folded dresses
denote Indians: one leads a horse, whose furniture I have drawn with
some care, and behind the horse is an elephant. Under this, and close
to the ground, are men in a Roman costume; amongst them is a chariot
to which two horses are harnessed; this also I have exactly
delineated.[31] In five compartments on the left (corresponding with
those on the right) are placed thick squadrons of Persian cavalry, all
in a regular and military order, marshalled as it were in echelon.
Fourteen yards was the length of the whole sculpture from point to
point.
[Illustration: _Fragments at Shapour._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq.^r_
_Published by Mess.^{rs} Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row May 1, 1811._]
[Illustration: _Sculpture at Shapour._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq.^r_
_Published by Mess.^{rs} Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]
[Illustration: _Sculpture at Shapour._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]
The path that conducted us round to these beautiful monuments, is the
course of an aqueduct, which appeared to be of more modern workmanship.
Bordering on the road which winds behind the hill of the citadel, are
numerous canals of water, formed most artificially and closely cemented
with _darna_. Besides these, there are very deep wells, in parts of
which the channels of the aqueduct are seen to pass. After having
repassed the river, we walked over the numerous mounds of stones and
earth which cover the ruined buildings of _Shapour_, and which, if ever
explored, would discover innumerable secrets of antiquity. We were
conducted by the peasants who were with us, to the remains of a very
fine wall, which in the symmetry of its masonry equalled any Grecian
work that I have ever seen. Each stone was four feet long, twenty-seven
inches thick, and cut to the finest angles. This wall formed the front
to a square building, the area of which is fifty-five feet. At the top
were placed sphinxes couchant, a circumstance which we ascertained
from discovering accidentally two eyes and a mutilated foot at the
extremity of one of the upper stones. In this wall there is a window,
which is arched by the formation of its upper stone. Behind this square
building, we traced most correctly the configuration of a theatre,
thirty paces in length, and fourteen in breadth. The place resembled
at least those called theatres which I have seen in Greece. From a
comparison of their positions, we were led to suppose that the building
still extant must have been connected with the other behind it, and may
have formed perhaps the entrance to it. [Plate XIII.]
There are distinct mounds of earth scattered over the whole site of
the city, to each of which there are one or more wells. These we
supposed to be ruins of separate houses. The people of _Kauzeroon_
relate that there are immense subterraneous passages at _Shapour_, and
connect the most extraordinary stories with them. Certainly one of the
least extraordinary is, that a horse and mare were lost in them, and
some time after re-appeared with a foal. Our informer added that one
of his own acquaintance was sent into these passages, and had advanced
some way when he perceived a gigantic figure, which to his fears
appeared approaching towards him. He recovered himself however so far
as to venture up to it, when, instead of a living monster, he found a
sculptured figure, the same as those on the exterior of the rock. As
a measure of the extent of these labyrinths, they say, that it would
require twenty _mauns_ of oil, (a _maun_ is seven pounds and a quarter)
to light any one through all their intricacies.
The plants that we noticed near the river, on the site of the city, and
about the surrounding plain, were the _palma christi_, _rodo-dendron_,
the willow, wild fig, a plant which the Persians call _shauk-a-booz_,
and _caveer_, reeds, and _benak_ or spice plant. The plain towards
_Shapour_ is much more cultivated than towards _Kauzeroon_, and is
intersected by a variety of small artificial channels, which receive
their supplies from the river. The river itself is a stream of very
fine water, but after having run for about eighteen miles, it meets
with a bed of salt among the mountains, which renders its waters in its
farther progress towards the sea quite salt.
After having enjoyed the pleasure of exploring these remains, we
returned to _Kauzeroon_. This town covers a large extent of country,
but its walls and skirts are almost all in ruins. There is one green
spot near it, a garden planted chiefly with cypress and orange trees,
and belonging to the Governor. We walked there in the evening: at the
entrance is a pleasure house, from which the principal avenue and
garden are seen. We drank coffee in an upper room, neatly matted and
stuccoed, with painted glass windows; and after having so long roamed
over barren mountains and desert plains, were much pleased to meet
with regular paths, refreshing rivulets, and luxuriant vegetation.[32]
The blackbird and the thrush were flying from tree to tree, and
reminded us how sensibly we had changed our climate.
We set off at eight o’clock on the morning of the 26th, and arrived
at our encampment in the valley of _Abdoui_, at half past twelve. The
road led by the walls of _Kauzeroon_, and through the plain, until we
came to a causeway called the _Poul-aub-guinee_, which is reckoned two
_fursungs_ from _Kauzeroon_. From this spot (which is a swamp forming
the termination of the lake from the southward) the road begun to wind
up a high mountain called the _Dockter_ or “Daughter.” Over this, in
the most difficult parts of the ascent, a road has been made, and
parapet walls built to screen the traveller from the dangers of the
precipices, which in some parts form an abrupt boundary to the road.
Formerly this road was singularly dangerous, and all the exertions and
ingenuity of the caravan drivers and leaders of mules were necessary
to conduct their animals in safety to the bottom. We were told that
the driver, when his mule was about descending a very steep part of
the pass, would seize it by the tail, and then with all his might hold
it fast, until the animal had found a footing for his fore feet, when
again he helped it in the same manner, until it was in perfect safety.
We reached the summit of the _Dockter_ at about half past ten, and
from thence we marched over a better road, until we descended into the
small and beautiful valley of _Abdoui_. It is thickly covered with oak
trees, which, though of a small kind indeed, must in summer render it a
verdant and refreshing spot.
Whilst we were at dinner it was announced to the Envoy, that one of
his old Persian friends MAHOMED REZA KHAN was about to meet him on his
route; that he was the bearer of good news, and would therefore demand
his _moodjdéhlook_, the customary present. The news was the defeat of
the Russians at _Erivan_, whose loss in killed and prisoners amounted,
according to the Persian’s report, to six thousand men. A _firman_ from
the King was also announced to be at this time on the road for the
Envoy.
Our picturesque camp, which was interspersed amongst the oaks of
the valley, was in motion at a quarter before eight on the morning
of the 27th. After traversing nearly the full length of the plain,
perhaps four miles, we proceeded to the long and tedious rise of
the _Peera zun_, or “Old Woman,” a mountain, the greatest height of
which formed the termination of our several ascents. We were at the
top at twelve o’clock, when we commenced our descent into the plain
of _Desht-e-arjun_, at the north extremity of which is situated the
village of the same name. Before we entered it, we were met by MAHOMED
REZA KHAN, who presented his letters from the Minister at the court
of _Shiraz_, and who received our compliments on the success of the
Persian arms. About two miles before we reached our encampment, we
were met by the _istakball_, which was like all the others, excepting
that it was accompanied by an old man blowing a brass trumpet of most
broken, hoarse and discordant note, and by a ragged boy on an ass, who
was beating two little kettle drums. About a quarter of a mile from the
village there is a burial place, with a lion on one of the tombs as at
_Derees_, and just under the mountain are a number of willow trees,
watered by a fine gushing spring.
The plain itself is swampy; but the heights which bound it are all of
a hard and inhospitable rock. In the swamp are wild fowl innumerable,
ducks, snipes, and divers. The spring was here most luxuriant, and
rendered the plain of _Desht-e-arjun_ one of the most delightful spots
which we had seen in the country. Some of the eminences are in summer
covered with vines, the seps of which were now seen just peeping out of
the brown soil. We were fortunate in having passed the mountains; for
we had scarcely reached our encampment, when thick clouds covered their
summits, and here and there left extensive layers of snow.
On the 28th, the morning was extremely cold, when the camp broke up;
we set off at half past eight, and arrived at our resting place at a
quarter to twelve, a distance which we call ten miles. We continued
all the road in the same region as the plain of _Desht-e-arjun_, nor
do I think that any very considerable descent had brought us much
below the summit of the _Peera Zun_. The people of the country reckon
_Khoné Zenioun_ colder than _Desht-e-arjun_, and indeed than any other
habitable place on their side of Persia. These spots are certainly much
more elevated than any other part in the line of our route. At _Khoné
Zenioun_ there is only a _Caravanserai_; near it a small stream runs to
the Eastward; we came to its banks at half past ten o’clock, but did
not cross it till close under the walls of the _Caravanserai_.
Whilst sitting quietly in our tents, we were hurried by the information
that KERIM KHAN, the bearer of the King’s letter, was within a mile of
our encampment. As it was necessary to receive it with every honour,
we exchanged our travelling clothes for uniforms and swords, which
the Persians have learnt to esteem as the dress of ceremony among
Europeans. We proceeded in all haste to the _Shiraz_ road, with the
body guard in their best clothes, with flying colours and trumpets
sounding; and had advanced scarcely a quarter of a mile, when we
perceived the Khan and his party descending a neighbouring hill. The
Envoy, the _Mehmandar_, and all the gentlemen of the suite dismounted
from their horses, and walked in form towards KERIM KHAN, who, in the
same manner, advanced towards us with an attendant behind him, bearing
the King’s _firman_. When the greetings of welcome were interchanged,
the _Khan_ took the King’s letter from under a handkerchief, with which
it was covered, and delivered it into the Envoy’s hands, saying aloud,
“This is the King’s _firman_.” Sir HARFORD received it with both his
hands, and having carried it respectfully to his head, placed it in his
breast. We then mounted our horses, and returned to the Envoy’s tent,
where all parties were seated according to their respective ranks. A
long exchange of compliments then took place between the principals,
“_khosh amedeed_” and “_bisgar khosh amedeed_,” (you are welcome, you
are very welcome), were repeated again and again. This is the phrase
after the “_selam alek_,” which is always used in Persia, and which
answers to the “_khosh gueldin_” of the Turks. The Turks never use the
“_selam alek_” to a Christian, or to one who is not of the faith; but
the Persians are less scrupulous. KERIM KHAN conveyed many flattering
compliments from the King to the Envoy, and added a great number on his
own part. Sir HARFORD called for PEER MURAD BEG, his chief _Moonshee_,
to read the _firman_. He arrived barefooted, and stood respectfully at
the end of the tent; when the _firman_ was put into his hands all the
company stood up, and the Europeans took off their hats: PEER MURAD BEG
read the _firman_ aloud, with a marked and song-like emphasis. He then
delivered it to Sir HARFORD, and we all seated ourselves again. After
this, the usual routine of smoking and coffee was performed, during
which the different gentlemen in the room were presented to KERIM KHAN;
our _Mehmandar_ officiated in this instance, and described all our
different qualities and qualifications with a great deal of humour.
KERIM KHAN then departed to lodge with the _Mehmandar_, who, on this
occasion, displayed considerable attention, though, in his general
manners, he had appeared a rough blunt soldier: knowing that the
Envoy (to whom in etiquette the duty devolved) was unprovided for the
reception of such a guest, he requested permission himself to entertain
the stranger.
29th. We departed from _Khoné Zenioun_ this morning at half past seven;
and at a quarter past eleven arrived at the _Bagh Shah Cheragh_, a
distance of twenty miles. We travelled mostly over a country of ascents
and descents, and on a better road than those of the preceding days.
The same river, by the banks of which we had been encamped, accompanied
us in various directions, and, winding towards the east, met us at a
station of _Rahdars_,[33] (as we were entering the plain of _Shiraz_),
where we crossed it on a decayed bridge, and saw the first view of
_Shiraz_ at the end of the plain. This day was replete with attentions
and honours to Sir HARFORD and his Mission; an _istakball_, composed
of fifty horsemen of our _Mehmandar’s_ tribe, met us about three
miles from our encampment; they were succeeded, as we advanced, by an
assemblage on foot, who threw a glass vessel filled with sweetmeats
beneath the Envoy’s horse, a ceremony which we had before witnessed
at _Kauzeroon_, and which we again understood to be an honour shared
with the King and his sons alone. Then came two of the principal
merchants of _Shiraz_, accompanied by a boy, the son of MAHOMED NEBEE
KHAN, the new Governor of _Bushire_. They, however, incurred the
Envoy’s displeasure by not dismounting from their horses, a form always
observed in Persia by those of lower rank, when they meet a superior.
We were thus met by three _istakballs_ during the course of the day,
and MAHOMED ZEKY KHAN, our _Mehmandar_, amused us by the singing of
a young boy, one of the first professional performers of _Shiraz_. A
number of feats were performed by many of the horsemen who overspread
the plain to a great extent; some throwing the _girid_, and then firing
their pistols and muskets on full gallop, and others throwing the lance
in the air, and catching it again.
On our road the _Mehmandar_, who had just received the message from
_Shiraz_, announced that one of the Prince’s own tents was pitched at
_Bagh Shah Cheragh_ for the Envoy, and that the Prince further begged
his acceptance of it. The present, which was offered with so much
attention and delicacy, was worthy of the hand which gave it. On our
arrival we found it displayed in the full elegance of its construction.
It enclosed a large square occupied by a set of walls, the exterior of
which was a crimson field, with green embroidery; on their interior
covering were worked cypress trees and fighting lions. The whole was
supported by three lofty and elegantly painted poles. Rich carpets were
spread on the ground, and the ceilings and hangings were of the finest
_Masulipatam_ chintz, with appropriate poetical mottoes painted in the
cornices. The _Feroshes_ (or tent-pitchers) had contrived to make a
small temporary garden before the entrance, and to introduce a little
stream of water to run through the few green sprouts which they had
planted. Three large trays of sweetmeats were placed in the tent ready
for the Envoy’s reception; upon which, when our visitors were departed,
we fed heartily. During the night, a fall of snow very opportunely laid
the dust for our entrance into the city, in which were to be displayed
all our splendour and finery.
CHAP. VI.
SHIRAZ.
PUBLIC ENTRY INTO SHIRAZ--HONORS PAID TO THE MISSION--DESCRIPTION
OF THE CITY--THE ENVIRONS: TOMB OF HAFIZ; HAFT-TEN; STORY OF SHEIK
CHENAN; GARDENS; PLEASURE HOUSES--INTRODUCTION AT THE COURT OF
SHIRAZ--THE PALACE--THE PRINCE--HIS GOVERNMENT--FETE GIVEN TO THE
ENVOY BY THE MINISTER--PRESENT FROM THE PRINCE’S OWN TABLE--THE
CHIEF SECRETARY’S ENTERTAINMENT--SECOND INTERVIEW WITH THE
PRINCE--REVIEW--THE FETE GIVEN TO THE MISSION BY THE MEHMANDAR--THE
PRINCE’S PRESENT; DRESSES OF HONOR.
On the morning of the 30th Dec. the day fixed for our public entry into
_Shiraz_, all the suite appeared in full uniforms, and the Envoy in a
Persian cloak or _catabee_ made of shawl, and lined with _Samoor_ fur;
a dress permitted to the Princes alone, and on that account assumed
by Sir HARFORD, as the best means of conveying to the senses of the
multitude, the high consideration of the office which he bore. We
proceeded from our encampment at ten o’clock. The troop was dressed in
their richest uniform, and made a very splendid escort. Our _Mehmandar_
marshalled the whole of the Persian horsemen so admirably, that none
crowded upon us in our march, and they only played about as usual and
animated the plain by their noise and games.
At about two miles from the city we were met by some of the chief
men of the place. It was a long contested negociation, whether they
also were to pay the Envoy the compliment of dismounting, nor would
they have submitted to this part of the ceremony, if KERIM KHAN, the
bearer of the King’s letter, had not rode forwards and represented to
them, that as he was sent from His Majesty to see that every respect
was properly shewn to the representative of the British King, he must
report their present conduct at _Teheran_. This hint had the desired
effect; and, as their party approached, the chiefs dismounted, and I,
with some other gentlemen of the Mission, dismounted also, and went
forward to meet them: the Envoy formally expressed his determination
to alight to nobody but the Minister. Those who had yielded the honour
thus reluctantly, were BAIRAM ALI KHAN CADJAR, the _Ish Agassi_, or
Master of the Ceremonies of the Prince’s Household, and HASSAN KHAN
CADJAR, both of the King’s own family; AHMED BEG, one of the sons of
NASR OALLAH KHAN, the Prince’s Prime Minister; and MIRZA ZAIN LABADEEN,
the Chief Secretary. We proceeded slowly across the plain; the crowd
and confusion increased almost impenetrably, as we approached the city,
and nothing but the strength of our _Mehmandar_ could have forced the
passage. Mounted on his powerful large horse he was in all parts,
dispersing one crowd, pushing forwards another, and dealing out the
most unsparing blows to those who were disinclined to obey his call.
At the gate, however, notwithstanding all his exertions, the closing
numbers detained our progress for above a quarter of an hour; and
vollies of blows were necessary to clear the entrance.
At length it was effected: the Envoy led the column, surrounded by the
Persian grandees, and followed by the gentlemen of the mission in their
rank, and the troop of the body guard. We passed through many streets
to the _Bazar-a-Vakeel_, a long and spacious building, the shops of
which were all laid out with their choicest merchandize to display on
the occasion the plenty and prosperity of the country. The _bazar_
itself is the most splendid monument of the taste and magnificence
of KERIM KHAN, who administered the affairs of Persia with sovereign
authority, under the name of _Vakeel_ or Regent, and died in 1779.
The centre is marked above by a rotunda, and beneath by an enclosed
platform; in the middle of which was seated the _Cutwal_ or Minister
of Police. The trumpet of the troop, which was sounded all through the
streets, continued with finer effect under the covered roofs of the
_bazar_. As the Envoy passed, every one stood up; all knew at least the
blows which followed any dilatoriness.
After a long procession we arrived at the house appropriated for
our reception. It was neatly built of a pale yellow brick, and was
very spacious, though considerably out of repair, and indeed in some
parts falling into absolute ruin. We were ushered into an apartment,
where a large service of sweetmeats and fruits was prepared for us.
Here we sat, until we had dispatched the usual forms of a visit with
the grandees who had met us, and had accompanied us thus far. The
remaining part of the day was occupied in receiving other less noble
visitants, and in accepting the countless presents which were sent
from various parts, and which consisted for the most part of live
lambs, fruits and sweetmeats. The store of sweetmeats at last became
so great, that they were distributed amongst our numerous servants,
troopers, and _feroshes_. Among those, who succeeded the original
party of our guests, was an officer dispatched by the Minister NASR
OALLAH KHAN with the intimation, that he deferred till the next day the
pleasure of visiting the Envoy, in the fear that at present he might be
fatigued with his journey. But our more brilliant visitors were YUSUF
BEG, a Georgian youth of pleasing manners, a favourite in the suite
of the Prince; and ABDULLAH KHAN, who was nominated to officiate as
our _Mehmandar_, till we should meet on the road an officer appointed
by the King from his capital to assume the functions in the further
progress of the Mission.
31st. NASR OALLAH KHAN, accompanied by many of the greatest men of
_Shiraz_, paid their visit of ceremony to the Envoy. The minister’s
manners were plain, his features hard, and his beard peculiarly black.
The usual routine of complimentary speeches and of other ceremonies
occupied both parties during his stay. The Envoy, from the pressing
invitation of the court, determined to hasten his departure towards
_Teheran_; and _eight_ days were fixed for our stay at _Shiraz_, though
circumstances afterwards occasioned a further delay.
_Shiraz_ has six gates: it is divided into twelve _mahalehs_ or
parishes, in which there are fifteen considerable mosques, besides
many others of inferior note; eleven _medressés_ or colleges, fourteen
_bazars_, thirteen _caravanserais_, and twenty-six _hummums_ or baths.
Of the gardens round, the principal are private property.