account of the Egyptian _jerboas_, except that, in two which I
examined, I could not find the spur or the small rudiment of a
fourth toe on the heel of the hinder foot; on the existence of which
depends essentially the resemblance which he has discovered between
the _jerboa_ and the _alagtaga_ of Tartary. But as the _jerboa_ of
HASSELQUIST, of BRUCE, and of SONNINI all seem to differ from each
other, and from those which I examined, in some minute circumstance,
it is reasonable to conclude, less that there is any incorrectness
in the descriptions, than that there is an essential variety in the
animals. The _jerboas_ in the deserts before us at _Bushire_, do
not live in troops, as those of _Egypt_, according to SONNINI; each
has his hole to which he retires with the utmost precipitation; nor
is it possible to take him by surprise in the day, as I learn from
Sir HARFORD JONES, who has had ample opportunities of examining the
history of the _jerboas_; and therefore the circumstance, which BRUCE
mentions, of his Arabs having knocked them down with sticks, extends
probably to no general inference. Nor can I think that SONNINI is
correct in supposing that the animal is fond of light. Those which I
kept in a cage remained huddled together under some cotton during the
day, but in the night made such a scratching, that I was obliged to
send them out of the room. Besides, one of the most common methods of
catching them is by the glare of a lanthorn, which seems to deprive
them of the power of moving, and subjects them quietly to the hand
of the man who bears the light. There is another and an easy way of
catching them, by pouring water down one of the apertures of their
retreat; they immediately jump out. We hunted several with spaniels,
but, although surrounded on all sides, they escaped with the greatest
facility: when very closely pressed, they have a most dextrous method
of springing to an amazing height over the heads of their pursuers;
and, making two or three somersets in the air, they come down again
in all safety on their hinder legs, many yards from the spot of their
ascent. In this leap they probably use their diminutive paws. Even a
greyhound stands no chance with them; for as soon as he comes near,
they take to the somersets, and the dog is completely thrown out. Their
flesh is reckoned very fine, as the people here who eat them assure
me. As the animal is very sensible of cold, and formed so delicately
and apparently so little prepared to resist frosts and snows, I cannot
think, though SONNINI seems to imply it, that it is found in very
northern climates. Rats and hares indeed are found in the coldest as
well as in the warmest parts of the world; but nature has provided them
with a clothing more appropriate to the change.
CHAP. V.
BUSHIRE TO SHIRAZ.
DEPARTURE FROM BUSHIRE--ARRANGEMENTS OF THE CAMP--MEETING WITH
MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN: ENTERTAINMENT--THE ISTAKBALL--DAULAKEE--MINERAL
STREAMS--VEGETATION--PASSAGE OF THE COTUL--PLAIN OF KHISHT--THE
GOVERNOR--CARAVANSERAI--THE MOUNTAIN ROBBERS--KAMAURIDGE--KAUZERON:
HONORS PAID TO THE ENVOY--RUINS OF SHAPOUR: GENERAL VIEW;
ACROPOLIS; SCULPTURES; ROMAN FIGURES; THEATRE; TRADITIONS--PASSES
OF THE MOUNTAINS--FIRMAN FROM THE KING--APPROACH TO
SHIRAZ--ISTAKBALLS--PRESENT FROM THE PRINCE.
The preparations for our departure, which had been suspended by
different events, were now resumed with much alacrity. I felt that the
cold, which we should soon encounter, might possibly kill my Indian
servant, and I accordingly sent him back to _Bombay_. The _Ferosh
Bashee_, or chief tent-pitcher, an officer of much utility in the
progress of our journey, now brought with him to our camp a large
number of adherents in subordinate capacities, who on their entrance
requested the Envoy’s permission to say their prayers in the manner and
time appointed by their religion. The next morning I was roused by a
noise, which I at last discovered to be compounded of the trumpet of
the troop blowing the reveille, and the voice of a Persian priest
calling the faithful to prayers: lungs originally strong had been so
disciplined and exercised for the purpose, that the voice was more
potent than the trumpet.
[Illustration: _ROUTE_
of
_HIS_ MAJESTY’S _MISSION_,
_under_ Sir Harford Jones, _Bar^t._
_Through =PERSIA=, in 1809_.
_By_ James Sutherland.
_Captain on the Bombay Establishment._
_Published 20^{th} May 1809 by Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row._]
Our _Mehmandar_, MAHOMED ZEKY KHAN, arrived on the 10th; we went out
to meet him, attended by the body guard in their best array, and
accompanied by a host of Persians. As the preparations for our journey
were now completed, the 17th Dec. 1808 was fixed for our departure.
On the 16th the _Ternate_, Lieut. SEALY, sailed for _Bombay_ with the
Envoy’s dispatches to the Indian government; and on the next day the
_Sapphire_, which was appointed to convey the dispatches to England,
proceeded to _Kharrack_ to take in water for the voyage.
All our arrangements were closed; and on the same morning, at a quarter
past eleven o’clock, the Envoy mounted his horse to proceed from
_Bushire_. In order to excite in the people a favourable expectation of
the result of the mission, he had previously desired the astrologers
to mention the time which they might deem lucky for his departure; and
the hour accordingly in which we begun our journey was pronounced, by
their authority, to be particularly fortunate. Sir HARFORD JONES’S
suite consisted of Mr. SHERIDAN, Mr. BRUCE, Captain SUTHERLAND, Cornet
WILLOCK, Dr. JUKES, and myself. He had two Swiss servants and an
English groom, an English and a Portuguese tailor, about half a dozen
Indians, and a very numerous assortment of Persians.
The _Sapphire_ saluted us as we set out; shortly after we met the
_Mehmandar_ and his cortège, and after some little exchange of
civilities we all went on together. The order of the cavalcade was as
follows:--The led horses, ten in number, each conducted by a well-clad
_jelowdar_ or groom; then the chief of the _jelowdars_ with his staff
of office; then the _arz-beg_ or lord of requests; after him were six
_chatters_ or running footmen, who immediately preceded the Envoy.
The Envoy himself was mounted on a choice Arab horse; at his right
stirrup walked a picked tall _chatter_, the chief of his class. Then
followed the gentlemen of the mission, amongst whom were disposed some
_moonshees_. To the right and left were the pipe-trimmers, who carried
all the smoking apparatus in boxes fashioned for the purpose.[25]
Behind the gentlemen and the _moonshees_ came a great crowd of Persians
on horseback; and, to close the whole, the body guard came along in
goodly rows, and made an admirable finish to the groupe.
The baggage all loaded on mules preceded us regularly on our march, so
that when we arrived at the end of our stage we always found our tents
pitched.
The arrangements of our camp were as follows:--There were two state
tents, one for dinner, the other for receiving company. The latter,
with the Envoy’s private tent, were enclosed within walls. Around these
were the tents of the gentlemen of the mission, each person having his
own. There was also one appropriated to cooking, and many others of a
smaller size for the servants, and the guard of cavalry.
After our dinner was over, which was generally an hour or two after
sun-set, the dinner tent was taken down, loaded on the mules, and sent
onwards to the next stage in readiness to receive us. About day-break
in the morning, the camp begun to break up; and before our breakfast
was over, for which one tent was left, all the rest of the ground was
cleared, and the baggage was far on its road to the next stage. The
Persians are so accustomed to this manner of life, that they pitch
and unpitch a camp with the most perfect dexterity and order. Much
of course depends upon the chief of the _Feroshes_ or tent-pitchers,
called the _Ferosh-Bashee_, who must necessarily be very active. The
man who filled this department in our mission was very clever, but
probably a great rogue, of which at least he displayed a presumptive
proof, as he had lost an ear, the forfeit of some former misdemeanour.
The office of _Charwardar_ or Chief Muleteer, is another also that
requires much activity and watchfulness, to superintend properly the
loading and unloading of the mules with order and dispatch.
[Illustration: _Persian Smoaking._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]
We marched for about four miles in a direct bearing with _Halila_ Peak,
(which bore S. 70. E. from Mr. BRUCE’S house,) and then came to the
swamps, which terminate the extremity of the inlet of the sea, from the
port of _Bushire_. Having paced over those swamps for about two miles
more, we took a more easterly direction, and then marched due E. to
_Alichangee_, the village at which we encamped. The distance is called
five _fursungs_, but probably is not more than fourteen miles. The soil
over which we passed was sandy, and here and there strata of rock.
The weather was hazy, and gave the country a broken and unconnected
appearance.
As we approached our encampment, we were treated with a scene of
Persian splendour and etiquette, in the meeting of the Envoy with his
old friend and tutor, MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN, the Governor of _Bushire_.
He had been informed that the Envoy intended passing the following day
with him, and accordingly prepared for his reception.
About a mile from our encampment we met him; a very large portion of
the military of _Bushire_ had already greeted his arrival. His approach
was first announced by a salute from all the matchlock guns of his
guards, who were posted in our way to frighten our horses. The _Khan_
then appeared himself, surrounded by an immense host, who, clearing
away as soon as they came near our party, gave the two great men free
access to one another. They exchanged embraces, and once again mounted
their horses. We all returned together, and formed a party so thickly
cemented, that the dust of the desert was raised in masses, which quite
obscured the air.
MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN and our _Mehmandar_ escorted the Envoy to his own
tent, and after a short visit, departed amid the same crowd and noise.
On Sunday the 18th, when I had performed divine service in the Envoy’s
tent, we paid a visit of ceremony to MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN. According to
the fashion of the country, we proceeded on horseback, although his
tent was within a stone’s throw. We were met by one of his officers,
and an escort of ten men, who made their obeisance to the Envoy, and
preceded his horse, until we arrived at the door, where the _Khan_
himself was waiting. He received us most graciously, and after we
had pulled off our boots and shoes, and Sir HARFORD and the _Khan_
had gone through some little polite difficulties about their seats,
we finally settled ourselves on chairs prepared for us. The _Khan’s_
tent was very neat, and appeared to us a most desirable residence. It
had a large exterior covering, and close to the extremity a wall all
round; and in the interior, there was a clean little recess closely
covered with carpets, and lined with the finest chintz, the borders of
which were adorned with a broad fringe. Our host was a man of great
notoriety both in Persia and in India; his manners were greatly in
his favour, and he was dressed more like a noble than any other man
whom I had yet seen in the country. His beard presented no plebeian
roughness, and the dagger in his girdle glittered with precious stones.
When the usual compliments had been severally paid, that silence of
solemnity, which generally marks the visits of form, succeeded, till
the _kaleoons_, or water pipes, were introduced to our relief. The
coffees and sherbets followed, and the whole entertainment concluded
with a course of sweetmeats, which was brought upon separate trays,
each serving two guests. The only unsatisfactory part of the visit was
the intended politeness of two lusty attendants, who broke some of the
sweetmeats in their suspicious hands, blew the dust off the fragments
with their more suspicious mouths, and then laid them before us. After
a washing of hands, (in which we felt the full want of towels), and a
parting _kaleoon_, we took our leave, and left the Envoy to a private
conference with the _Khan_.
The trays, from which we eat, had the appearance of silver, though I
understood afterwards that they were plated only. They were neatly
carved in flowers and other ornaments. The articles which they
contained were made of almonds, pistachio nuts, and a paste of sugar;
others were like our alicampane and barley sugar, and all were very
nice. The Persians are almost indescribably fond of sweetmeats, which
they eat in very great quantities. The abundance indeed of fruits and
sherbets presented daily to the Envoy by the _Mehmandar_, proved the
immense supply which the taste of the country demanded. The presents
were arranged prettily in trays and boxes, and carried in great form on
the heads of servants, but they were less acceptable, because for each
the conductor required a present in money. By such means the great men
in Persia pay their servants, who in general receive no other wages.
The person, therefore, to whom such an office as that of _Mehmandar_ is
entrusted, is, of course, surrounded by hordes of adherents, who are
allured by receipts so certain and valuable.
The new Governor had consulted the astrologers of _Bushire_ to
determine the most propitious time for his entrance into the town,
which, by their predictions, was at three hours before sun-set on the
19th. In conformity therefore to the decision, he was now delaying
his advance till the happier period should arrive. When, on a former
occasion, he was departing from _Bushire_ to embark on board the ship,
which was to carry him on his mission to _Calcutta_, he was ordered by
these astrologers (as the only means of counteracting the influence of
a certain evil star) to go out of his house in a particular aspect: as
unfortunately there happened to be no door in that direction, he caused
a hole to be made in the wall, and thus made his exit.
In the evening we dined with _Mahomed Nebee Khan_. We did not go
till the _Khan_ had sent to the Envoy to say, that the entertainment
was ready for his reception, a custom always observed on such
occasions.[26] When we arrived at his tent, the same ceremonies passed
as in the morning, except that we sat upon the ground, where the
inflexibility of our knees rendered the position more difficult than
can be described. The _Khan_, who seemed to commiserate the tightness
of our pantaloons, begged that we would extend our legs at their full
length: fearing, however, to be rude, we chose to be uncomfortable, and
to imitate their fashion as faithfully as possible; and really, with
respect to my own feelings, I thought complaisance was never carried
further. The guests besides ourselves, were our _Mehmandar_ and the
Persian Secretary. I preserved part of the conversation: in talking of
the admirable skill with which the guns of the _Nereide_ were fired in
the re-capture of the _Sylph_, the _Mehmandar_ said to the Secretary,
“you ought to have kissed the lips of those guns, whose execution was
so effectual; and walked around and around them, and in gratitude
for your deliverance, to have put up prayers to Heaven for their
preservation and prosperity.”
After having sat some time _kaleoons_ were brought in, then coffee,
then _kaleoons_, then sweet coffee (the composition already noticed of
sugar and rose-water); and then _kaleoons_ again. All this was rapidly
performed, when the _Khan_ called for dinner. On the ground before us
was spread the _sofra_, a fine chintz cloth, which perfectly entrenched
our legs, and which is used so long unchanged, that the accumulated
fragments of former meals collect into a musty paste, and emit no very
savory smell; but the Persians are content, for they say that changing
the _sofra_ brings ill luck. A tray was then placed before each guest;
on these trays were three fine china bowls, which were filled with
sherbets; two made of sweet liquors, and one of a most exquisite
species of lemonade. There were besides, fruits ready cut, plates
with elegant little arrangements of sweetmeats and confectionary, and
smaller cups of sweet sherbet; the whole of which were placed most
symetrically, and were quite inviting, even by their appearance. In
the vases of sherbet were spoons made of the pear tree, with very deep
bowls, and worked so delicately, that the long handle just slightly
bent when it was carried to the mouth. The _pillaus_ succeeded, three
of which were placed before each two guests; one of plain rice called
the _chillo_, one made of mutton with raisins and almonds, the other
of a fowl, with rich spices and plumbs. To this were added various
dishes with rich sauces, and over each a small tincture of sweet sauce.
Their cooking, indeed, is mostly composed of sweets. The business of
eating was a pleasure to the Persians, but it was misery to us. They
comfortably advanced their chins close to the dishes, and commodiously
scooped the rice or other victuals into their mouths, with three
fingers and the thumb of their right hand; but in vain did we attempt
to approach the dish: our tight-kneed breeches, and all the ligaments
and buttons of our dress, forbade us; and we were forced to manage
as well as we could, fragments of meat and rice falling through our
fingers all around us. When we were all satisfied, dinner was carried
away with the same state in which it was brought: the servant who
officiated, dropping himself gracefully on one knee, as he carried away
the trays, and passing them expertly over his head with both his hands,
extended to the lacquey, who was ready behind to carry them off. We
were treated with more _kaleoons_ after dinner, and then departed to
our beds.
On the morning of the 19th, the camp broke up at sun-rise. We took a
hasty breakfast in the Envoy’s tent, but a visit from MAHOMED NEBEE
KHAN (which was preceded by a present of two horses and his own sword)
kept us on the ground till nine o’clock. The _Khan_, with all his
attendants, accompanied us about two miles. He was preparing to enter
_Bushire_, his new government, with all splendour. From the town to the
swamps were erected stages on which bullocks were to be sacrificed,
and from which their heads were to be thrown under his horse’s feet,
as he advanced; a ceremony indeed appropriated to Princes alone, and
to them, only on particular occasions. Yet, however anxious originally
for his station, and however splendid in his present appearances, he
felt the full dangers of his pre-eminence, and betrayed an absence
and uneasiness in his words and actions, which to us evinced all his
apprehensions. He was so conscious indeed of the difficulties of
his situation, that he had transmitted to the King a present of two
thousand _tomauns_, with a memorial, beseeching to be excused from his
government.
We marched at first north-westerly, till we came to the bed of a river,
or rather of a mountain-torrent, in which the actual stream of water
when we passed, was not above ten feet in breadth, though the channel
itself was perhaps thirty yards. It falls into the sea in a due E. and
W. direction.
At two o’clock we came to _Ahmadiéh_: at half past two we passed a
small fort called _Khosh Aub_, where a large body of people were
waiting our passage.[27] They were all armed with pikes, matchlocks,
swords and shields; and gave us two vollies as a salute. They then
advanced to us, and being announced by the _Arz-beg_, wished us a
prosperous journey. They were answered by the usual civility, “_khosh
amedeed_, you are welcome.” As we proceeded, our party was headed
by the soldiery. They were commanded by a man on horseback, all in
tatters, who with his whip kept them together, and excited them with
his voice where he wanted them to run. Two of the chosen of the village
performed feats before us on their lean horses, and helped to increase
the excessive dust, which involved us. This party kept pace with us,
until we were again met by a similar host, the van of the little army
who were waiting our reception at _Borazjoon_: these also fired their
muskets.
From _Khosh Aub_ to _Borazjoon_ the ground appeared cultivated; and as
we were approaching the latter village, we saw some of the peasants,
who, after having finished their toil in the fields were walking home
with their ploughs over their shoulders. I think we may fairly reckon
at twenty-five miles the distance from _Alichangee_ to _Borazjoon_:
the Persians call it nine _fursungs_. The avenues to _Borazjoon_ are
through plantations of date and tamarisk trees: the village is a
collection of huts, which surround a fort; and the fort, like the rest
of those which I had seen, was a square, with turrets at each corner,
which were cut into small chequers at the top. There are the ruins of
many small forts all over the _Dashtistan_, which were built by some
unsuccessful rebel, and which were left to decay as soon as he was
quelled. I understand that the population of this district has been
decreasing ever since the happy days of SHEIK NASR. Almost the whole of
its geography present places which have names, but no inhabitants; or
if there are any, they are the refuse only of former more flourishing
families.
In our road to-day, we saw immense flights of the _toowee_, or desert
partridge, and some ravens. The _Mehmandar_ and the oldest of our
_moonshees_ amused themselves in scouring the plains, and playing at
the dangerous game of the _girid_, in which the old scribe got a severe
blow. The Persians ride with great courage, for they drive their horses
at their greatest speed over any ground. They of course get frequent
falls, by which they are seldom much injured; for though they generally
alight on their heads, they are there saved by their immense sheep-skin
caps.[28]
It was a quarter past eight before we mounted our horses on the morning
of the 21st, and ten minutes past twelve when we arrived at _Daulakee_,
a distance called four _fursungs_, and which may be computed at about
twelve road miles. The site of _Daulakee_ is marked by a break in the
mountains, where the road which leads among them commences. It bore N.
30 E. when we mounted. Our road was much broken by the beds of numerous
torrents, which, after the rain and melted snows, fall from the
adjacent mountains. We here and there met with small encampments of the
_Elauts_. They appear like the _Turcomans_, whom I have so frequently
seen at _Smyrna_, and through the whole of Asia Minor. At the distance
of two miles we were met by the _Istakball_, who fired their salute,
and frightened the horses as before. This ceremony was repeated every
day, so that a repetition of the description will not be always
necessary. They were all arranged on a rising ground, at the foot
of which ran a stream of mineral water, of a most sulphureous smell.
Further on we crossed other streams of the same quality; the heat of
one of which, as it gushed from under the rocks, was almost scalding.
We brought home specimens of the incrustation which the spray of the
bubbles left on the surrounding rocks. The bed of the stream was mostly
of the colour of sulphur, although there were patches here and there of
a copper hue. Still a little further on, on the left of the road, are
two springs of naptha. The oil swims on the surface of the water, and
the peasantry take it off with a branch of date tree, and collect it
into small holes around the spring ready for their immediate use. They
daub the camels all over with it in the spring, which preserves their
coats, and prevents a disease in the skin, which is common to them.
The huts in the village of _Daulakee_, as we rode through it, appeared
mostly to be covered on the tops with the entwined leaves of their date
trees, while the better houses are built of mud, and terraced. The
mosque was the most creditable building that met our eye in the whole
place: its interior seemed neatly arranged in arches, and preserved
clean with a white stucco. There was a little bath at the extremity
of the town. The customary fort (for such are found in most of these
villages) was situated in the middle of the huts, at the top of which
many an eager Persian was perched. This place, and indeed all we had
seen, presented a picture of poverty stronger than words can express.
There was nothing but what mere existence required; nor to our very
cursory observation did the most trifling superfluity shew itself.