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Transcriber’s note:
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
A carat character is used to denote superscription. A
single character following the carat is superscripted
(example: Bar^t). Multiple superscripted characters are
enclosed by curly brackets (example: Mess^{rs}).
[Illustration: _SKETCH OF THE COUNTRIES_
_Situated between SHIRAZ and CONSTANTINOPLE; Shewing the ROUTE of
HIS_ MAJESTY’S _MISSION under Sir_ Harford Jones _Bar^t. in_ 1809,
_from_ Bushire _to_ Teheran; _and of_ M^r. Morier _from thence to_
Constantinople.
_As also the_ Route _of_ Col. Malcolm, _in_ 1801.
_By_ J. Rennell.
_Published 20 May 1811 by Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row._]
A
JOURNEY
THROUGH
PERSIA,
ARMENIA, AND ASIA MINOR,
TO
CONSTANTINOPLE,
IN THE YEARS 1808 AND 1809;
IN WHICH IS INCLUDED,
SOME ACCOUNT OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF HIS MAJESTY’S
MISSION, UNDER SIR HARFORD JONES, BART. K. C.
_TO THE COURT OF THE KING OF PERSIA_.
BY JAMES MORIER, ESQ.
HIS MAJESTY’S SECRETARY OF EMBASSY TO THE COURT OF PERSIA.
WITH TWENTY-FIVE ENGRAVINGS FROM THE DESIGNS OF THE AUTHOR;
A PLATE OF INSCRIPTIONS; AND THREE MAPS;
_ONE FROM THE OBSERVATIONS OF CAPTAIN JAMES SUTHERLAND: AND
TWO DRAWN BY MR. MORIER, AND MAJOR RENNELL_.
_LONDON_:
PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, PATERNOSTER-ROW.
1812.
PREFACE.
Finding, on my arrival in England, that curiosity was quite alive
to every thing connected with Persia, I was induced to publish the
Memoranda which I had already made on that country; more immediately as
I found that I had been fortunate enough to ascertain some facts, which
had escaped the research of other travellers. In this, I allude more
particularly to the sculptures and ruins of _Shapour_; for although
my account of them is on a very reduced scale, yet I hope that I have
said enough to direct the attention of abler persons than myself to the
investigation of a new and curious subject.
Imperfect as my journal may be, it will, I hope, be found sufficiently
comprehensive to serve as a link in the chain of information on Persia,
until something more satisfactory shall be produced; and it claims no
other merit than that of having been written on the very spots, and
under the immediate circumstances, which I have attempted to describe.
Having confined myself, with very few exceptions, to the relation of
what I saw and heard, it will be found unadulterated by partiality to
any particular system, and unbiassed by the writings and dissertations
of other men. Written in the midst of a thousand cares, it claims every
species of indulgence.
The time of my absence from England comprehends a space of little more
than two years.--On the 27th of Oct. 1807, I sailed from Portsmouth
with Sir HARFORD JONES, Bart. K. C. His Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary
and Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of Persia, in H. M. S.
_Sapphire_, Captain GEORGE DAVIES: after having touched at Madeira
and at the Cape of Good Hope, we reached Bombay on the 26th of April,
1808: owing to some political arrangements we did not quit Bombay
till the 12th September. We arrived at _Bushire_ on the 13th October,
and proceeded towards the Persian capital on the 13th December. H.
M. Mission reached _Teheran_ on the 14th February, 1809: on the 12th
March the preliminary treaty was signed between Sir HARFORD JONES and
the Persian Plenipotentiaries; and on the 7th May I quitted _Teheran_
with MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, the King of Persia’s Envoy Extraordinary to the
Court of London, with whom I reached _Smyrna_ on the 7th September, and
embarked there on board H. M. S. _Success_, Captain AYSCOUGH. Having
at Malta changed the _Success_ for H. M. S. _Formidable_, we finally
reached Plymouth on the 25th November, 1809.
I should be wanting in gratitude, if I did not here express the
obligations which I owe to my fellow traveller, MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, the
late Persian Envoy Extraordinary, for much information on subjects
relating to his own country, and for all the facilities of acquiring
his language, which his communicative and amiable disposition afforded
me. As this personage was distinguished, during his stay in England,
by attentions more marked and continued than, perhaps, were ever paid
to any foreigner, I have conceived that I should not trespass too much
on the patience of my readers by inserting a sketch of his life;[1]
I feel at least that it will prove very acceptable to those who have
shown him, as a stranger, so much friendship and hospitality.
In my narrative I have confined myself to relate our proceedings from
the time we left Bombay to my arrival at Constantinople. The sea
voyages, from England to India, and from Constantinople to England, are
too well known to require any thing more to be written about them.
The engravings that are inserted are made from drawings which I took
on the spot; they are done in a slight manner, and therefore are more
intended to give general ideas, than to enter into any nicety of detail.
For the map from _Bushire_ to _Teheran_ I am indebted to my friend
Captain JAMES SUTHERLAND, of the Bombay army; and for the general
one of the countries, through which my route carried me, I must here
return my thanks to Major RENNELL, who has furnished me with this
valuable document, and who has kindly assisted me in this, as well as
on other occasions when I found myself deficient, with his advice and
information. The map from _Teheran_ to _Amasia_ is the result of my
own observation, corrected by the same masterly hand. It terminates
at _Amasia_, because my journey from that place to _Constantinople_
was performed as much by night as it was by day, and prosecuted with
too great speed to permit me to observe with accuracy. Besides which,
in Turkey, where the people are much more jealous and watchful of
travellers than in Persia, I found that I could not make my remarks
so much at my ease as I wished, although assisted by the disguise of
a Persian dress. The courses and distances, noted in the journal,
are only to be regarded as a kind of _dead reckoning_, subject to
correction by the application of latitudes in certain places, and of
approximated positions in others; and, in all, by allowances for the
inflexions and inequalities of the roads.
I am indebted to Messrs. JUKES and BRUCE, of the Bombay service, for
the information which they furnished me whilst I was in Persia, and I
have not failed to make my acknowledgments, wherever such information
has been inserted.
But I must, in particular, express my gratitude to Mr. ROBERT HARRY
INGLIS, for the kindness with which he offered to correct and arrange
my memoranda, and prepare my journals for the press.[2]
I beg leave to repeat that this volume is meant merely as provisional,
and that I am far from entertaining the presumption that it will
class with the valuable pages of CHARDIN, LE BRUN, HANWAY, NIEBUHR,
or OLIVIER. It is to be expected, that the extensive communication
that will be opened with Persia, in consequence of our late political
transactions with its court, will throw the whole extent of that very
interesting part of the globe under our cognizance; and that, among
other subjects of inquiry, its numerous antiquities, which have as yet
been but imperfectly explored, will throw new lights upon its ancient
history, manners, religion, and language.
INTRODUCTION.
The history of Persia from the death of NADIR SHAH to the accession of
the present King, comprehending a period of fifty-one years, presents
little else than a catalogue of the names of tyrants and usurpers, and
a succession of murders, treacheries and scenes of misery.
After the assassination of NADIR, one of the most formidable of the
competitors for the vacant throne, was MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN, the head of
the _Cadjar_ tribe, and a person of high rank among the nobles of SHAH
THAMAS, the last king of the SEFFI race.[3] MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN had
several sons: HOSSEIN KOOLI KHAN, the eldest, was father to the present
King of Persia, and was killed in a battle with the _Turcomans_: AGA
MAHOMED KHAN, the second son, was the immediate predecessor of his
nephew on the throne.
MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN had not long assumed the crown, when he was
opposed by KERIM KHAN, a native of _Courdistan_; who, under pretence
of protecting the rights of ISMAEL,[4] a lineal descendant of the
SEFFI family, and then a child, secured to himself so large a share
of influence and authority in the state, that he very soon supplanted
virtually the pageant that he had erected; and, while he still
concealed his ambition under the name of _Vakeel_ or Regent, exercised
all the real powers of the sovereign of Persia. The birth of KERIM
KHAN was obscure; but the habits of his early years qualified him for
the times in which he lived, and the destiny to which he aspired. His
family, indeed, was a low branch of an obscure tribe in _Courdistan_,
that of the _Zunds_, from which his dynasty has been denominated;
and his profession was the single occupation of all his countrymen,
robbery,[5] which, when it thus becomes a national object, loses
in reputation all its grossness. Here he acquired the talents and
hardihood of a soldier; and was renowned for an effectual spirit of
enterprise, and for great personal skill in the exercise of the sword,
a qualification of much value among his people. The long revolutions
of Persia called forth every talent and every passion; and the hopes
of KERIM KHAN were excited by the partial successes of others, and
by the consciousness of his own resources. He entered the field; and
eventually overcame MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN, his principal competitor, who
fled and was killed in _Mazanderan_. The conqueror having seized and
confined the children of his rival, proceeded to quell the several
inferior chiefs, who, in their turns, had aspired to the succession.
His superior activity and talents finally secured the dominion: and
having, in 1755, settled at _Shiraz_, he made that city the seat of his
government. He beautified it by many public buildings, both of use and
luxury; and their present state attests the solid magnificence of his
taste. His memory is much lamented in Persia; as his reign, a reign
of dissipation and splendor, was congenial to the character of the
people. In his time prostitutes were publicly protected; their calling
was classed among the professions; and the chief, or representative,
of their numbers, attended by all the state and parade of the most
respected of the _Khans_ and _Mirzas_, used daily to stand before the
Sovereign at his _Durbar_.
On the 13th of March, 1779, KERIM KHAN died a natural death, an
extraordinary occurrence in the modern history of Persia, having
reigned (according to the different dates assigned to his accession,
from the deaths of different competitors) from nineteen to thirty
years. From the fall of MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN the better epoch, his
conqueror lived nineteen years, with almost undisputed authority.
After his death all was again in confusion; and the kingdom presented a
renewal of blood and usurpation. It is scarcely necessary to state the
short-lived struggles of his successors: their very names have ceased
to interest us. It is sufficient therefore to add, that his sons and
brothers, and other relatives, attacked each other for fourteen years
after his death; till the fortunes of the whole family were finally
overwhelmed in the defeat of LOOLF ALI KHAN, the last and greatest of
these claimants; and the dominion was transferred, in the year 1794, to
his conqueror, AGA MAHOMED KHAN, of the present royal race of Persia.
In latter years, during the war between the East India Company and
TIPPOO SAIB, under the administration of the Marquis WELLESLEY, the
political relations of England and Persia were renewed. An embassy,
which TIPPOO sent to FATTEH ALI SHAH, the present King of Persia, was
followed soon after by a rival mission, which the Indian government
confided to the care of MEHEDE ALI KHAN, a man of Persian extraction.
In the mean time, indeed, TIPPOO was killed; and his death left us in
possession of the Persian councils. After this Captain MALCOLM, in the
year 1801, was sent to solicit the alliance of Persia against ZEMAUN
SHAH, King of the _Afghans_. That gentleman concluded a treaty,[6]
by which it was stipulated that Persia should attack _Khorassan_ and
the _Afghan_ States, and that we should contribute our assistance in
the expences of the war. The King of Persia carried his arms into
_Khorassan_, and conquered that province.
The mission of Captain MALCOLM was returned by one from the King of
Persia to the Indian Government. HAJEE KELIL KHAN was sent as the
embassador, but unfortunately he was killed in a fray at _Bombay_, as
he was attempting to quell a disturbance between his servants and some
Indians. To explain this untoward event, Mr. LOVETT, a gentleman in the
Bengal civil service, was dispatched; but he proceeded no further with
his mission than to _Bushire_, and delivered it over to Mr. MANESTY,
the East India Company’s Resident at _Bussorah_. Another embassy was
now sent from the Persian Court; and MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN, the Envoy
appointed, luckily reached _Calcutta_ without any accident.
Some time after, French agents were traced into Persia, and the views
of France begun to be suspected. _Monsieur_ JOUANNIN, an intelligent
Frenchman, succeeded in getting the Persian Court to send a mission
to BUONAPARTE. The Envoy, by name _Mirza_ REGA, went from Persia in
1806; and concluded a treaty with France at _Finkinstein_, in May
1807. On his return, a large embassy, confided to General GARDANNE,
was sent from France to Persia: this gave rise to the mission of
Sir HARFORD JONES, who, arriving at Bombay in April 1808, found
that Brigadier-General MALCOLM had been previously sent by the
Governor-General to Persia. General MALCOLM having failed of success,
Sir HARFORD JONES proceeded.
PLATES.
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.
PAGE
I. General Map of the Countries to face the Title.
II. Cape _Arubah_ 3
III. Island of _Ashtolah_ 4
IV. Cape _Posmee_ 4
V. Cape _Musseldom_ 6
VI. View of _Bushire_ 58
VII. Map from _Bushire_ to _Teheran_ 68
VIII. Persian on horseback smoaking 70
IX. View of _Shapour_ 86
X. Sculpture at _Shapour_ 88
XI. Sculpture at _Shapour_ 90
XII--XIII. Sculptures at _Shapour_ 91
XIV. View of _Shiraz_ 106
XV. Sculpture at _Nakshi Rustam_ 127
XVII. Sculpture at _Nakshi Rustam_ 128
XVIII. View of _Persepolis_ 132
XIX. Sculpture at _Nakshi Radjab_, near
_Persepolis_ 137
XX. Sculpture at _Nakshi Radjab_, near _Persepolis 138
XXI. Tomb of _Madré Suleiman_ 145
XXII. View of _Ispahan_ 169
XXIII. View of _Teheran_ 185
XXIV. _Takht-a-Cadjar_ 226
XXV. Map from _Teheran_ to _Amasia_ 249
XXVI. _Sultaniéh_ 257
XXVII. Bridge over the _Kizzil Ozan_ 267
XXVIII. _Mount _Ararat_ 306
XXIX. Plate of Inscriptions 357
ERRATA.
P. 176. Twenty-two lines from the top, for _twelve_, read _sixteen_.
P. 257. Sixteen lines from the top, for _four_, read _five_.
(Transcriber's note: These have been implemented)
JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA,
&c. &c. &c.
CHAP. I.
BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.
DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY--LAND OF GUZERAT--COAST OF
MEKRAN--BALOUCHES--ENTRANCE OF THE GULPH OF PERSIA--IMAUM OF
MUSCAT: HIS FLEET--SOUNDINGS IN THE GULPH--BUSHIRE--VISIT OF THE
SHEIK--LANDING IN PERSIA.
On the 6th of September 1808, when His Majesty’s Mission to the
court of _Teheran_ was still at _Bombay_, the Envoy extraordinary,
Sir HARFORD JONES, received dispatches from the Governor-general at
_Calcutta_, which determined him to proceed immediately to Persia.
The establishment of the mission had been changed since our arrival
in India; Major L. F. SMITH, who left England as public Secretary,
on landing at this settlement proceeded to BENGAL; and the duties of
Secretary of the Legation were annexed to those, which, as private
secretary to the Envoy, I had originally discharged. The suite was
augmented at _Bombay_ by Mr. THOMAS HENRY SHERIDAN, and Captain JAMES
SUTHERLAND, severally of the civil and military establishments of that
presidency, by Cornet HENRY WILLOCK, of the _Madras_ cavalry, commander
of the body guard; and was subsequently joined by Lieutenant BLACKER,
of the _Madras_ cavalry, and Mr. CAMPBELL, surgeon to the mission.
Besides three European and some Indian servants, the Envoy carried
washermen and tailors, and some artificers, as carpenters, blacksmiths,
and locksmiths.
On the 12th Sept. Sir HARFORD JONES, accompanied by Mr. SHERIDAN and
myself, embarked on board his Majesty’s frigate _Nereide_, Captain
CORBETT; Capt. SUTHERLAND and Mr. WILLOCK went in the _Sapphire_, Capt.
DAVIS: and the H. C. cruizer _Sylph_ carried the Persian secretary,
&c. The Governor of _Bombay_ drew out the troops of the garrison to
salute the Envoy on his embarkation: they formed a lane from the
government-house to the entrance of the dock-yard; and as He passed
the troops presented arms, and the music played “God save the King.”
A salute of fifteen guns was fired on his quitting the shore, and was
answered by another from the frigate; a ceremony which always excites a
powerful feeling of respect in the minds of the natives.
In the afternoon of the 12th, the squadron left the harbour of
_Bombay_: on the 13th, the _Nereide_ had out-stripped the _Sapphire_,
and had lost sight of the _Sylph_. The winds were variable and squally:
the thermometer in the cabin stood at 82°. About ten o’clock, on the
morning of the 14th. we made the land of _Diu_; we stood close in
shore, and tacked at twelve o’clock; the Portuguese colours were flying
on the fort. The thermometer was this day 80°. 15th. calms. The land
of the _Guzerat_ is extremely low. _Diu_ Point is studded with towns
and pagodas. 16th. we made but little way; tacked off and on shore,
and distinguished a variety of buildings and towns on the coast. The
largest place, which we marked in our progress, was _Pour-bundar_. The
coast itself continued flat, with scarcely an inequality.
On Sunday, the 18th. Capt. CORBETT read prayers to the ship’s company
on the quarter-deck. The scene struck me as more simple and more
impressive than any that, for a long time, I had witnessed. The
cleanliness of the ship, the attention of the sailors, the beauty of
the day, all conspired to heighten the solemnity of the service, and
I felt persuaded that the prayers, offered up to God by such men and
in such a manner, would be favourably accepted.
[Illustration: _Cape Arubah_
_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]
As the coast of _Mekran_, (taken largely, from the _Indus_ to the
entrance of the gulph of Persia,) along which we now sailed, is so
little visited in this age, and has, indeed, been so seldom described
since the days of ALEXANDER, it may, perhaps, be acceptable to insert
even the few and incomplete notices of the country which my journal
affords.
On the 18th. we lost sight of the coast. On the 24th we again saw land,
which in appearance was remarkable. It was a very long range of table
land, the soil of which, though light coloured, was strongly marked in
horizontal strata. As we approached it, we discovered several curious
capes, rising in a varied succession of grotesque forms; and among
them one so very singular, that we were surprised that it had not been
particularly described by those who have compiled the directories for
navigating these seas. By our chronometers we took this land to be Cape
_Moran_.[7] The shore gradually shallows from twelve to five fathoms,
when we tacked and stood off again in the evening, expecting a land
breeze to spring up, but were disappointed. The sea is here very much
discoloured, the effect probably of black mud at the bottom.
25th. Sept. Cape _Arubah_ is a long slip of table land, which on its
first appearance looks like an island.[8] Its soil seems to be clay,
and of a colour a few shades darker than Portland stone. We did not
discover, among the head-lands into which it was broken, the particular
cape which might have given its name to the whole; but the highest
point to the westward appeared to deserve the preference. Beyond that
western extremity of the table land, the coast immediately recedes
into a bay, which is terminated by a long range of extremely rugged
mountains. In one of the recesses of the cliffs of _Arubah_, we
fancied that we had discovered a village, and even through our glasses
were still positive that we could mark its white buildings; but as we
drew closer to the shore, we ascertained that the houses in appearance
were in reality large clods of white soil, which had fallen from the
cliffs above, and were arranged so happily, some in separate piles,
and some in rows, as to give to the whole the full effect of a town. A
number of small boats with white _lateen_ sails were creeping quietly
along the shore, as we passed; but we could not get close enough to
them, to ascertain the people who managed them, or the nature of the
goods which they carried.
On the 26th. the weather was very foggy; the thermometer was 75°. On
the 27th. as the fog still increased, we came to an anchor in nine
fathoms. On the 28th. as the fog cleared away, we discovered the small
island of _Ashtola_, which is of an equal height along its whole
extent, a length perhaps of about two miles, and seems to be of the
same soil as the capes on the mainland. Not far from the island, we
caught turtle. The continent as seen from _Ashtola_, appears extremely
high, in long continued ranges; but the lands which more immediately
border on the sea, are very low. The soundings are regular, and there
is no danger, as long as the lead is going. At eight o’clock we were
off _Cape Posmee_, a remarkable head-land.
[Illustration: _Island of Ashtola._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown.
Paternoster Row. May 1, 1811._]
On the 1st of October, we made _Cape Guadel_, a piece of land of a
moderate and rather equal height, which projects far into the sea, and
is connected with the continent by an isthmus less than half a mile
in breadth. Close under the north side of the cape, there is still a
town; and on the isthmus, as we could perceive from the ship, are the
remains of an old fort. In the neighbourhood are the vestiges of a town
also, built with stone, and some wells.[9] But the more modern village
of _Guadel_ is composed of mat houses, and the greater part of
the inhabitants (the number of the whole is very small) are weavers,
who manufacture coarse linen and carpets of ordinary colours. From
_Crotchey_ to _Cape Monze_ the people call themselves _Balouches_; and
from _Monze_ to _Cape Jasques_, they take the name of _Brodies_: there
is some difference in their language, perhaps in their religion also,
but none in their dress or manners. The high lands about _Cape Guadel_
are all extremely remarkable, rising in spires and turrets so correctly
formed, as to give to many parts of the coast, an appearance of towns
with their churches and castles.
Their rocky summits, split and rent,
Form’d turret, dome, and battlement,
Or seem’d fantastically set
With cupola or minaret,
Wild crests as pagod ever deck’d
Or mosque of eastern architect.
_Lady of the Lake, Canto_ I. xi. p. 14.
[Illustration: _Cape Posmee._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]
One piece of land in particular, forming an entrance to the bay behind
_Cape Guadel_, has the most striking resemblance to a long range of
gothic ruin. We perceived three camels grazing on the heights of the
cape, and some few signs of cultivation, which we had discovered on no
other spot along the coast before.
On the 3d. we saw the town of _Chubar_; and plainly distinguished
among other objects a walled building, which we at first took to be a
fort, but which according to the Directory, is a place of burial. We
saw several boats with _lateen_ sails, of a canvas very conspicuously
white, cut exactly like the sails of the boats on the coast of Italy
and Sicily. The thermometer was 84°. The 5th. was very sultry, and the
thermometer was 90°. On the 6th. a hot wind came from off the land, and
warped the tables, mathematical rulers, and the furniture in the cabin,
besides slackening all our rigging. This wind brought with it a thick
mist of an impalpable sand, which gradually cleared away, and left us
the first view of _Cape Jasques_.
Oct. 7th. at about one o’clock in the morning, a breeze sprung up from
the southward, and in five hours we had passed the _Quoins_, in the
Gulph of Persia, and were abreast of the island of _Kishmis_. We saw
at the same time the high land of the Arabian shore, terminating in
a lofty and marked peak; it is the land about _Cape Musseldom_. The
entrance of the gulph may be properly marked between _Cape Bombareek_
and _Cape Musseldom_. I call these places by their names, as laid
down in our sea charts; because their more proper appellations would
probably not be understood. _Bombareek_ for instance, which by sailors
is also called _Bombay rock_, is derived originally from “_Moobarek_,
happy, fortunate.” _Musseldom_ is still a stronger instance of the
perversion of words. The genuine name of this head-land is _Mama
Selemeh_, derived according to the story of the country from _Selemeh_,
who was a female saint of Arabia, and lived on the spot or in its
neighbourhood. The Indians, when they pass the promontory, throw cocoa
nuts, fruits or flowers into the sea, to secure a propitious voyage. My
informer added, that the superstition was not practised by the Persians.
On the shore of _Cape Bombareek_ is an insulated and very singular
mass of rock, in which we could perceive from the ship a large natural
aperture. To me the shape of the whole mass appeared like a tankard,
and the aperture formed its handle. After having rounded _Cape
Musseldom_ (which is eighteen leagues to the westward of _Bombareek_),
we came to the five small islands generally called altogether the
_Quoins_.
_Kishmis_ is the largest island in the gulph; and, according to the
account which I received, is capable of being made very productive: it
is at present in almost total abandonment, though still nominally the
property of Persia. We next passed two small and low islands, called
the Great and Little _Tomb_.
[Illustration: _Cape Museldom._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman Hurst Rees Orme & Brown Paternoster
Row May 1 1811._]
The strong south wind, with which we were now favoured, was at this
season considered extraordinary. It blew so strong that the Nereide,
with every sail set, went ten and eleven knots. It is accompanied
with much haze, not indeed to be compared to that which came with the
hot wind from off the shore, though in the same manner it warped the
furniture and slackened the rigging.
On the 8th. we passed the island of _Busheab_, which, in HEATHER’S
map, is placed much too far to the eastward, and which ought to be
called “_Khoshaub_, or pleasant water,” from the fresh spring in its
territory. It is a long and low slip, but the land on the continent
behind it is extremely high. We had a light sea breeze all day, that
carried us off _Cape Nabon_, a part of the province of _Farz_. The
thermometer stood at 93° in the cabin after dinner. On the morning of
the 9th. it was reported that a fleet of five ships were seen from
the mast-head. We conjectured that they might be Arab ships, bound
from _Muscat_ to _Bussorah_, which about this season proceed on their
voyages. They carry thither annually eight thousand bales of coffee;
and in return get cargoes of dates. The sea breeze of the day was
extremely light, and set in at noon. In the evening the _Barnhill_, a
remarkable piece of land, (which derived its name from its resemblance
to an old and decayed thatched building, and which is situated over the
town of _Congoon_,) bore N. and by W. of us. Here the whole coast is
very high.
On the morning of the 10th. we were off the _Barnhill_. The five ships
had thus far kept us in a state of suspense; as we imagined that
they might be the fleet of the _Imaum_ of _Muscat_, who possesses
thirty sail of different descriptions. Some of his ships, indeed,
are of a thousand tons burthen; and one of forty guns, built at
_Bombay_, is rather a formidable vessel.[10] The _Imaum_ in person
frequently parades about the Persian gulph with his armament. He is an
independant prince, and his jurisdiction, though principally confined
to _Muscat_, extends yet generally over the province of _Oman_. At
present he is friendly to us, and we have a resident at his court, who
seldom remains there long, for the badness of its air has rendered it
the burial place of too many Englishmen.
At length we boarded the Arabs, and they proved to be, as we had
originally expected, a fleet of the _Imaum’s_ merchantmen, laden with
coffee, rice, &c. bound to _Bushire_ and _Bussorah_. They had been
fifteen days from _Muscat_. One of the five was a fine vessel of six
hundred tons burthen, which about four years before was purchased by
the _Imaum_ at the _Isle of France_, and was then called the _Sterling
Castle_. There were also two _grabs_, which are ships in every respect
like the others, except that they have lengthened prows instead of
rounded bows. These _grabs_ the Arabs can manage to build themselves in
their own ports, as it is easy to extend the timbers of a ship, until
they connect themselves into a prow; but they have not yet attained the
art of forming timber fit to construct bows.
Before the sun-set of the preceding day, we had discovered through our
glasses, the town of _Congoon_, under a peak, close in the eastern
vicinity of the _Barnhill_. It then appeared in a wood of dates,
above which rose the domes of mosques. The _Sheik_ of _Congoon_ is
represented as a young and spirited Arab, who can raise a body of two
thousand cavalry, and who is able to lead them. His town is resorted to
for wood, but, as far as we could judge at a distance, the date is the
only tree of the neighbourhood.
We suffered much from the heat in the night, but when the moon rose
over the _Barnhill_, a little refreshing breeze sprang up, which gave
us much relief. An Arab ship was not far from us, and I could just
hear their singing on board. It brought to my recollection some of the
moonlight scenes in the _Archipelago_; for the music of these Arabs
struck me as being very similar to that which I have heard on board a
Greek or Sclavonian ship, when the _lyra_ accompanies the voice of
some naval Apollo, and is followed by a chorus of his shipmates.
We were off _Cape Verdistan_ this morning, and descried the _Hummocks_
of _Kenn_. The shoal that runs out from _Cape Verdistan_, is rendered
dangerous by a reef of rocks which extends itself about six or seven
miles from the shore. There are good mud soundings on the shoal,
and a ship may cross its extremity without danger, though it is as
well to give it a good birth. We stood off in the night of the 12th.
The soundings in the shoal as laid down by _Mac Cluer_ are not all
correspondent to those which we got. We were in seven fathoms for
more than an hour, and he has not got such a sounding amongst his.
From seven we got to half six, and then to four, when we thought it
time to tack. The cause which has been assigned for our ignorance of
the gulph, is the prudential reserve which has influenced our Indian
governments in their transactions with the states of Persia and Arabia.
To avoid suspicion and complaint, they have never professedly made
surveys of the shores, though much might yet have been done indirectly,
if the object had been considered of sufficient importance. Few,
except merchant vessels visited the gulph; and as the charts, which
they already possessed (and what is better, their own experience)
served their purpose sufficiently in the line of their own navigation,
there was seldom any particular demand for more correct surveys. The
geographer and philosopher indeed require something more, and therefore
it is still matter of regret, that we are comparatively ill-informed in
countries, where we have had easy opportunities of acquiring knowledge.
13th Oct. We were becalmed all night under the _Asses Ears_. These
are points of land, which stand a little more erect, and are more
conspicuous than the other points which surround them. The whole
displays a line of coast the most rugged, barren, and inhospitable
that I ever saw; and constitutes, after we passed _Verdistan_ shoal,
a very bold shore. We sailed along it, keeping in eleven and twelve
fathoms. In the evening we opened _Hallilah_ peak, which is a high and
remarkable point of land. As we crept along the coast, we marked some
ruined walls embosomed among the date trees.[11] At sun-set we just
discovered the low land on which stands the town of _Bushire_. In the
calms which followed during the night, we were unable to make much way,
and on the morning of the 14th we were still at the same distance from
_Bushire_, as on the preceding evening. We fired two shots at a small
vessel, to bring her to, but without effect. These boats are employed
mostly in carrying wood to _Bushire_. They find it on the coast,
probably in recesses of the land, for we could scarcely see a shrub in
the whole passage of the gulph.
At about half past three o’clock on the 14th October, we anchored in
_Bushire_ roads, where we found one of the Company’s cruizers, and a
merchantman. Before we cast anchor, a boat came off from the shore, the
captain of which, a little sharp Persian, answered Sir HARFORD JONES’S
interrogations with much vivacity, and swore to the truth of every
assertion ten times over by his head and eyes. Having learnt that the
East India Company’s assistant resident, Mr. BRUCE, was at _Bushire_,
the Envoy sent a letter to desire his attendance on board immediately,
and at the same time requesting that he would notify the arrival of the
mission to the _Sheik_, ABDALLAH RESOUL, who then governed _Bushire_.
We could see with our glasses Mr. BRUCE’S residence, which was at some
distance without the town, and could observe that the letter had been
safely delivered; for in a few minutes we discovered Mr. BRUCE on
horseback, riding full speed to the boat. In an hour he was on board.
He commenced by informing us of a report of the death of our King,
which had reached _Bushire_ from _Bagdad_; and which, originating from
an article in a French paper, had been circulated in Persia by the
French, for an obvious purpose. The Envoy delivered to Mr. BRUCE, a
paper containing all the communications which he wished to be made to
the _Sheik_ of _Bushire_. He then added, desiring that his object might
be clearly explained, that He expected from the _Sheik_ all the respect
due to the station which he filled, and that if he did not receive
those honours to which the King of England’s Mission was entitled, the
_Sheik_ should be held responsible till the wishes of the court of
Persia were known. Mr. BRUCE assured Sir HARFORD that the _Sheik_ would
make no difficulty in coming off the next day to pay his respects, and
the hour of his visit was in consequence fixed at ten o’clock.
The colours of the New Factory in the country, and of the Old one
in the town, were hoisted on the morning of the 15th. While we were
expecting the arrival of the _Sheik_, we regaled ourselves with the
grapes, citrons, and pomegranates, which had been sent to us from the
shore. At length we espied a boat with a crimson awning, and apparently
much filled with passengers. It was beating against the sea breeze,
which, rather unfortunately for the party, had set in uncommonly fresh.
When she came in a line with our ship, the sail was lowered, and the
men took to their oars. In a short time however we observed from the
frigate, that the boat got very slowly a-head, and that the strength
of the crew was nearly exhausted. Captain CORBETT then sent his barge
to tow up the _Sheik_ to the ship, which was done in a very masterly
style; and we were delighting in the idea of the enjoyment which the
Persians must have received in the close at least of such an excursion,
when we were mortified at discovering the misery in every face, which
the unusual voyage had too evidently produced. But the sea-sickness was
forgotten as soon as they were on board the frigate. The _Sheik_ was
received with a salute of five guns; the number was esteemed a mark of
particular distinction, as three are considered in Persia a sufficient
allowance for a great man.
The marines were under arms; Captain CORBETT with much courtesy handed
him across the quarter-deck, and assisted him with some difficulty
to descend from the deck to the cabin by a steep and narrow ladder,
which, however, no attention could render convenient to a man
encumbered with an immense large cloak and slip-shod slippers. At the
bottom he was received by Sir HARFORD JONES. The ship was immediately
filled by the suite of the _Sheik_, who, with all the curiosity and
effrontery of Asiatics, spread themselves through every part. Our
guest was attended on his visit by the principal men and merchants of
_Bushire_, among whom the Envoy recognised the face of many an early
friend. All the party seemed much pleased with their reception, and
expressed their high admiration of the beauty, order, and cleanliness
of the ship. The conversation was general, and consisted mostly in
inquiries after former friends, and in reviving the recollection of the
histories of old times. Sir HARFORD JONES had known the _Sheik_ when
he was a fine boy: there was now indeed little left to be admired; his
face was inanimate, and his body bent double with excessive debauch.
The whole party were generally but a rude sample of the elegance of
Persians, nor indeed is the true Persian to be found at _Bushire_,
where the blood is mostly mixed with that of Arabia.
The only man of the party, whose face interested me, and exhibited
signs of intelligence, was a Turk, by name ABDULLA AGA, an old friend
of the Envoy’s, who had been _Musselim_ of _Bussorah_, and had ruled
that part of the country for many years, with great respectability and
eclat. He had been driven by injustice to take refuge at _Bushire_;
though from the known integrity of his character, and the attachment of
the people of _Bussorah_ and _Bagdad_ to his person, many still expect
that he will one day attain the _Pachalick_ of _Bagdad_. After this
good Mussulman, spreading his carpet near one of the twelve pounders,
had said his prayers, (with a fervency, undisturbed by the busy, novel
and noisy scene around him) the visit broke up.
The _Sheik_ and ABDULLA AGA, who both had suffered by their long
excursion in the morning, preferred to return on shore in the
_Nereide’s_ boat with Sir HARFORD JONES. We had not long put off from
the ship, when a salute of fifteen guns commenced for the envoy, to the
great consternation of the remaining part of the Persians, who were
just embarking in their own boat, and who unluckily found themselves
under the muzzles of the guns, where they were involved in clouds
of smoke, with the wads whistling close to their ears. We at length
reached the landing place; an immense crowd was assembled to await our
debarkation. The _Sheik_ had collected all the soldiery of the town to
escort us to his house; and in the moment of our touching the shore,
the whole mob was put in motion, raising a dust so thick that I could
scarce distinguish Englishman from Asiatic. To add to the denseness of
the atmosphere, the boats, which were close to the beach, commenced
a salute; which was immediately answered by a range of guns on the
coast. The whole procession was obliged to pass in the immediate rear
of these guns as they were firing, though they appeared so old and
honey-combed, that I feared they must have burst before the honours
were over. We proceeded in a cloud of dust, and through streets six
feet wide to the _Sheik’s_ house, and at length entered it by a door
so mean and ill-looking, that it might more properly have formed the
entrance to his stable. This door introduced us into a small court
yard, on one side of which was an apartment where we seated ourselves
on chairs placed on purpose for us. A Persian visit, when the guest is
a distinguished personage, generally consists of three acts: first,
the _kaleoun_, or water pipe, and coffee; second, a _kaleoun_, and
sweet coffee (so called from its being a composition of rose-water and
sugar); and third, a _kaleoun_ by itself. Sweetmeats are frequently
introduced as a finale. As I shall have many better opportunities of
describing all the ceremonies of these occasions, it is sufficient
to add at present, that we performed the three above acts, and then
mounted our horses for Mr. BRUCE’S house in the country.
Part of the same armed rabble, which had escorted us from the boat to
the _Sheik’s_ house, attended us to the Factory. These soldiers are the
militia of the place, and serve without pay. They even find their own
arms, which consist of a matchlock, a sword, and a shield that is slung
behind their back. They consist of working men attached to different
trades, for we discovered the dyer by the black hue of his hands, the
tinker by the smut on his face, the tailor by the shreds that had
adhered to him from his shopboard.
On our arrival at the Factory, we closed our dispatches for Europe, and
then completed a day full of entertainment, by an excellent dinner.
The _Nereide_ sailed with the dispatches on the morning; and before
daylight was out of sight. The passage between _Bombay_ and _Bushire_,
which had been made in thirty-four days, was now retraced in twelve.
CHAP. II.
HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.
HISTORY OF BUSHIRE--SHEIK NASR--THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE, THE CHIEF
EXECUTIONER DISPATCHED FROM SHIRAZ AGAINST THE SHEIK ABDULLAH
RESOUL; VISITS THE ENVOY: VISIT RETURNED--DIFFICULTIES OF THE
SHEIK--HIS SEIZURE--CONSTERNATION OF THE TOWN--PRECAUTIONS OF THE
ENVOY--EXPLANATION OF THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE--SUCCESSOR OF THE SHEIK,
MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN--ASSUMPTION OF THE GOVERNMENT BY THE NASAKCHEE
BASHEE--MAHOMMED JAFFER APPOINTED PROVISIONALLY; DISGRACED;
RESTORED--RECEIVES A KALAAT--CEREMONY--FATE OF THE LATE SHEIK OF
BUSHIRE.
The history of the _Sheik_ of _Bushire_, who had received us on our
landing, added the principal interest to our subsequent residence in
his country. Our stay was marked by the subversion of his power and of
the Arab rule; and the journal of every day naturally contained ample
accounts of the progress of an event, which was locally so prominent
and important. The travellers of the last century, who mentioned his
predecessors, may possibly direct some little curiosity to the fortunes
of their descendant; but without any previous interest in the persons,
the tale of the present day may excite attention as a practical
illustration of the principles of an eastern government.
The coast of the gulph was lined for ages with the petty sovereignties
of Arab _Sheiks_,[12] who, while they occupied the shores of Persia,
yielded a very uncertain obedience to the monarch of the interior. The
degrees indeed of service paid were probably at all times measured more
by the character and relative force of the different parties, than by
any original stipulations. NADIR and KERIM KHAN in vain endeavoured
to reduce these Arab chiefs to more complete obedience: but in many
districts their authority was scarcely acknowledged, and except in
partial remissions, still more seldom felt. Among these chiefs,
_Sheik_ NASR, of _Bushire_, long retained a real independance. The
_Dashtistan_, the low country under the hills, was his province; and
in all the turbulence of his age, this territory and more immediately
the country round _Bushire_, was still the place of security. In one
instance indeed, memorable in the latter history of Persia,[13] the
resources of _Bushire_ supported the sinking fortunes of the last
dynasty. LOOTF ALI KHAN, after the murder of his father JAFFIER KHAN,
king of Persia, fled for refuge to SHEIK NASR. The _Sheik_, in memory
of his ancient attachment to JAFFIER KHAN, received the prince with
the warmest hospitality, and gathering the Arab tribes under his
controul, resolved to lead them in the cause which was thus trusted
to his honour. The prince in the mean time prepared, by letters, his
friends at _Shiraz_ to second their operations; and the measures
were continued with secrecy and success, when, in the words of the
Persian historian,[14] “The boat of _Sheik_ NASR KHAN’S existence
from the beating waves of the sea of life, had received considerable
injury; and the bark of his age, from the irresistible tempest of
death was overwhelmed in the sea of mortality.” In his last moments
the _Sheik_ committed to his son the duty which he was no longer
permitted to execute himself. The son fulfilled his father’s charge
with faithfulness: in two or three months he had assembled a large
force of Arab tribes[15], and advanced with them towards _Shiraz_:
when a conspiracy in the camp of their enemy enabled them in the first
instance to succeed without a battle, and eventually to reinstate
on his throne the Prince who was confided to them. The story marks
the character of the two nations more fully, if the history of LOOTF
ALI KHAN, before his flight to _Bushire_, be recollected. Although
his father had reigned in Persia for a long time (compared with the
usurpations which preceded,) although himself had long accustomed
the people to serve and triumph with him, yet in the first moment of
distress (the arrival of the intelligence of his father’s slaughter,
and of the orders of the conspirators to seize him), even in his own
camp he was left unsupported by all. Five, indeed, fled with him in the
night to _Bushire_; but in the morning the whole camp had dispersed
without an effort; and all had submitted to the usurpers. The contrast
now begins: the Prince threw himself on the protection of the Arabs,
the vassals or allies of his father; he was welcomed with the most warm
fidelity, supported by their honour, and restored by their valour to
his throne.
The _Sheik_ of _Bushire_, who in his dying charge had bequeathed this
cause to his successor, is still remembered in his general conduct
with reverence. Whenever his little domain was threatened either by
the Government of Persia, or by a neighbouring chief, SHEIK NASR
flew to arms. According to the traditional accounts of the country,
his summons to his followers in these emergencies was equally
characteristic and effectual. He mounted two large braziers of _Pillau_
on a camel, and sent it to parade round the country. The rough pace of
the animal put the ladles in motion, so that they struck the sides of
the vessels at marked intervals, and produced a most sonorous clang. As
it traversed the _Dashtistan_, it collected the mob of every district;
every one had tasted the Arab hospitality of the _Sheik_, and every one
remembered the appeal, and crowded round the ancient standard of their
chief, till his camel returned to him surrounded by a force sufficient
to repel the threatened encroachments. In every new emergency the camel
was again sent forth, and all was again quiet.