which the new comer experiences in securing a share in those social
enjoyments to which he has been accustomed in other places, have had
an unfavorable effect upon the morals of the place. Having no other
resource for pastime, when the hours of business are over, he flies to
such public entertainments as the city affords. And if these are not
always what they should be, it behooves us to provide better. Public
libraries, reading rooms, galleries for the exhibition of the fine
arts, lyceums for lectures, and other kindred rational amusements,
would do much to establish a new and better order, and to break down
those artificial barriers, which separate so many refined and pure
minded men from the pleasures and advantages of general society,
condemning them to live alone and secluded, in the midst of all that
is lovely and attractive in the social relations of life.
The character of New Orleans, in respect to health, has been much and
unjustly abused. At the north, in ratio to their population, the
consumption annually destroys more than the yellow fever of the south.
The city of New York averages about thirty a week. Patients with
pulmonary complaints, resort to these latitudes for relief, where such
diseases are otherwise rarely known. In truth, this capital shows a
more favorable bill of mortality, than any seaport town in the United
States, except Charleston and Baltimore.
There is little to be said in favor of the morals of New Orleans,
during the first few years after its cession. Report made them much
worse than they were. As the community was composed of some of the
worst classes of society, gathered from every region under the sun,
nothing very good was to be expected. But circumstances have changed.
A system of wholesome police regulations has been introduced and
enforced, which has either brought the desperate and the lawless under
subjection, or expelled them from the community. By reference to the
statistics of crime, in other commercial cities in proportion to the
number of inhabitants, the stranger will be convinced that this City
has reason to be proud of her standing. Riots here are unknown,
robberies seldom occur. Personal security in the public streets, at
all hours, is never endangered--and females may venture out after
dark, without a protector, and be free from insult and molestation.
Foreign influence has entailed upon society here a _code of honor_
which, in some measure, has had a tendency to injure it, but the false
notion is fast falling into disrepute.
The new state constitution, if adopted, will put an effectual stop to
this barbarous practice. Article 130, reads,
"Any Citizen of this State who shall, after the adoption of
this constitution, fight a duel with deadly weapons, or send
a challenge to fight a duel, either within the state, or out
of it, or who shall act as second, or knowingly aid and
assist in any manner those thus offending, shall be deprived
of holding any office of trust or profit, and of enjoying the
right of suffrage under this Constitution."
The learned professions here, generally, stand preeminently high. The
science of medicine may boast of a talent, and a skill, that would
confer honor upon any city in the Union--and the few empirics who
disgrace the practice, are so well known, that the evil is circumscribed
within very narrow limits. The clergy are proverbial for their learning
and eloquence--and the same remarks will apply with equal force to the
members of the bar.
This city, at the present time, possesses no public library.
Considering the population, and their ability, this must be regarded
as a blot upon the intelligence of its citizens. This is completely a
commercial community, however, and money is the universal ambition.
Thence springs that acknowledged deficiency in literature and the fine
arts, observable to the stranger. But shall it still remain? Is there
no Girard--no Astor--among our millionaires, who will leave behind
them a monument which shall make their names dearer and more honored
in all coming time, than those of heroes and conquerors?
After several attempts to establish a library, an association of young
men, some years ago, at last succeeded in organizing one; but, for
want of proper aid and support from the rich, it lingered on for some
time, and was finally sold out by the sheriff! It then consisted of
four or five thousand volumes of well selected books. It was purchased
by a private gentleman, B. F. French, Esq. for a mere nominal sum.
Thus has a work intended for the honor of the city, become, in an evil
hour, the monument of its shame! It is soothing however, to learn
that, at length, a love of letters and the fine arts is springing up
in our midst. Under the head of Lyceums, National Gallery of
Paintings, and Public Schools, in this volume, facts illustrative of
this assertion may be seen.
The Masonic fraternity in New Orleans appear to enjoy all their
ancient privileges. There are some ten lodges, besides a grand lodge,
and an encampment. Here is a large number of the order of Odd Fellows,
as one of Equal Fellows--a Typographical Association, and Mechanics,
Hibernian, St. Andrews, German, and Swiss societies. These are all,
more or less, of a benevolent nature; and within their own circles,
have all been extremely serviceable.
The navigation of the Mississippi, even by steam boats, in 1818, was
extremely tedious. The Etna is recorded as arriving at Shipping port,
a few miles below Louisville, in _thirty two_ days. The Governor
Shelby in _twenty two_ days, was considered as a remarkably short
passage. An hermaphrodite brig was _seventy one_ days from New
Orleans--and a keel boat _one hundred and one_; the latter to
Louisville. Now, the time occupied is _five to six_ days.
During the business season, which continues from the first of November
to July, the levee, for an extent of five miles, is crowded with
vessels of all sizes, but more especially ships, from every part of
the world--with hundreds of immense floating castles and palaces,
called steamboats; and barges and flat-boats innumerable. No place can
present a more busy, bustling scene. The loading and unloading of
vessels and steamboats--the transportation, by some three thousand
drays, of cotton, sugar, tobacco, and the various and extensive
produce of the great west, strikes the stranger with wonder and
admiration. The levee and piers that range along the whole length of
the city, extending back on an average of some two hundred feet, are
continually covered with moving merchandise. This was once a pleasant
promenade, where the citizen enjoyed his delightful morning and
evening walk; but now there is scarcely room, amid hogsheads, bales
and boxes, for the business man to crowd along, without a sharp look
out for his personal safety.
The position of New Orleans, as a vast commercial emporium, is
unrivalled--as will be seen by a single glance at the map of the
United States. As the depot of the west, and the half-way-house of
foreign trade, it is almost impossible to anticipate its future
magnitude.
Take a view, for instance, of the immense regions known under the name
of the Mississippi valley. Its boundaries on the west are the Rocky
Mountains, and Mexico; on the south, the Gulf of Mexico; on the east
the Alleghany mountains; and, on the north, the lakes and the British
possessions. It contains nearly as many square miles, and more
tillable ground, than all continental Europe, and, if peopled as
densely as England, would sustain a population of five hundred
millions--more than half of the present inhabitants of the earth. Its
surface is generally cultivable, and its soil rich, with a climate
varying to suit all products, for home consumption or a foreign
market. The Mississippi is navigable twenty one hundred miles--passing
a small portage, three thousand may be achieved. It embraces the
productions of many climates, and a mining country abounding in coal,
lead, iron and copper ore, all found in veins of wonderful richness.
The Missouri stretches thirty nine hundred miles to the Great Falls,
among the Flat Foot Indians, and five thousand from New Orleans. The
Yellow Stone, navigable for eleven hundred miles, the Platte for
sixteen hundred, and the Kanzas for twelve hundred, are only
tributaries to the latter river. The Ohio is two thousand miles to
Pittsburgh, receiving into her bosom from numerous streams, the
products of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Kentucky, Western Virginia,
Tennessee, Indiana and Illinois. The Arkansas, Big Black, Yazoo, Red
River, and many others, all pouring their wealth into the main artery,
the Mississippi, upon whose mighty current it floats down to the grand
reservoir, New Orleans.
The Mississippi valley contained over eight millions of inhabitants in
1840, having gained eighty per cent., during the last ten years. The
present number cannot be less than ten millions.
The last year, the Mississippi was navigated by four hundred and fifty
steamboats, many of which are capable of carrying 2,500 bales of
cotton, making an aggregate tonnage of ninety thousand. They cost
above seven millions of dollars; and to navigate them, required nearly
fifteen thousand persons--the estimated expense of their navigation is
over thirteen millions of dollars. The increase since, may be
calculated at fifty additional boats--which would make an advance in
all these items in a ratio of ten per cent.
Such statements as these, large as they seem, convey to the reader but
a partial idea of the great valley, and of the wide extent of country
upon which this city leans, and which guaranties her present and
future prosperity. To form a full estimate, he must, besides all
this, see her mountains of iron, and her inexhaustible veins of lead
and copper ore, and almost boundless regions of coal. The first
article mentioned (and the phrase in which it is expressed is no
figure of speech) has been pronounced, by the most scientific assayer
of France, to be superior to the best Swedish iron. These, and a
thousand unenumerated products, beside the well known staples,
constitute its wealth; all of which by a necessity of nature, must
flow through our Crescent City, to find an outlet into the great world
of commerce. With such resources nothing short of some dreadful
convulsion of nature, or the more dreadful calamity of war, can
prevent New Orleans from becoming, if not the first, next in
commercial importance to the first city in the United States--perhaps,
in the world. The flourishing towns upon the Mississippi and her
tributaries, are merely the depositories for this great mart. In
twenty years she must, according to her present increase, contain a
population of three hundred thousand, with a trade proportionably
extended.
With such views, it may be deemed folly to attempt to look forward to
the end of the nineteenth century, when this metropolis will in all
probability extend back to lake Pontchartrain, and to Carrolton on the
course of the river. The swamps, that now only echo to the hoarse
bellowing of the alligator, will then be densely built upon, and
rendered cheerful by the gay voices of its inhabitants, numbering at
least _a million of human beings_. If, like Rip Van Winkle, we may be
permitted to come back after the lapse of half a century, with what
surprise and astonishment shall we witness the change which the
enterprise of man will have wrought. But let us not waste a moment in
dreaming about it. Let us be up and doing, to fulfil our part of the
mighty achievement. It would not be strange, however, if the present
map, which is given to show the rapid growth of the city, by
comparison with one drawn in 1728, should then be republished with a
similar design, to exhibit the insignificance of New Orleans in 1845!
We ask the kindness of the critics of that period, should they deign
to turn over these pages, begging them to consider that our humble
work was produced as far back as the benighted age of steam!
FOOTNOTE:
[4] See New Orleans Medical Journal, vol. 1, part 2, July, 1844.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS
Having noticed, in the preceding sketch, the most prominent features
in the history of this interesting section of country, it becomes a
duty now to present to the intelligent reader, and more especially to
the inquiring traveller, a description of such of the public
institutions, buildings, and places of resort, for business and
amusement, as may be deemed worthy of his attention. In attaining this
object, it was necessary to have recourse to the most carefully
digested statements of facts now existing, as well as to collect
others from personal inspection.
THE UNITED STATES BARRACKS
The buildings formerly used for the accommodation of the troops
garrisoned in New Orleans, were erected by the French about a century
since. These were directed to be sold in 1828, and ten years after
were demolished. The act was soon discovered to be an error, and in
1833, the government determined to replace them. A plan was
accordingly forwarded to the seat of government and approved. On
account of the difficulty of obtaining a suitable site within the
incorporated limits, a location was selected, by assistant quarter
master Drane, about three miles below the city. The works were begun
the 24th of February, 1834, and completed on the 1st of December,
1835, at a cost, including the enclosure of the public grounds, of
$182,000. The late Assistant quarter master J. Clark, superintended
the operation, aided by Lieutenant J. Wilkinson, who had furnished the
plans.
The Barracks occupy a parallelogram of about three hundred feet on the
river, by nine hundred in depth. The ground in the rear belongs to the
general government, to the depth of forty arpents, and can be used for
the benefit of the troops. The garrison was intended to consist of
four companies of infantry, but ample accommodation exists for a much
larger number. The quarters of the commandant occupy the middle of the
front; those of the staff and company officers being on either flank.
The companies are quartered in a hollow square, which is thrown back
far enough to give space for a handsome parade ground. In the rear of
these quarters are the hospital, store-house, and corps des garde, and
still in rear, and beyond the walls, is the post magazine, as well as
other buildings necessary for the comfort and convenience of the
troops. In front of the whole is a commodious wharf for the landing of
supplies.
[Illustration]
THE UNITED STATES BRANCH MINT
Is situated on what was once called Jackson Square, being nearly the
former site of fort St. Charles. It is an edifice of the Ionic order,
of brick plastered to imitate granite, having a centre building
projecting, with two wings; is strongly built, with very thick walls,
and well finished. Our limits will not permit us to go into a detailed
description of its interior arrangements; which, however, may be
generally spoken of as such as not to discredit the distinguished
engineer who planned it. The total length of the edifice is 282 feet,
and the depth about 108--the wings being 29 by 81, and the whole three
stories in height. It was begun in September, 1835; and the building
was perfectly completed at a cost of $182,000. The machinery is
elegant and highly finished, and, when in operation, proves an
interesting sight to visitors; which, from the gentlemanly urbanity of
the officers of the establishment, may be easily enjoyed. The square
is surrounded by a neat iron railing on a granite basement. The
coinage of 1844--gold, $3,010,000--silver, $1,198,500--making in all
$4,208,500.
THE CUSTOM HOUSE
This establishment is conducted in an old building, quite too small,
even if the United States Courts did not occupy a considerable portion
of it. The square, in the centre of which it stands, is about 300 feet
each on Old Levee, Custom-House, Front-Levee and Canal streets; and,
from its peculiarly happy location, is well calculated for public
improvement. Considering the great commercial importance of New
Orleans, as being scarcely second to any city in the Union, it is a
matter of congratulation that the government are now disposed to place
her upon a more respectable footing, in regard to offices of this
nature; which have been furnished in a princely style to some of the
sea-ports that had less need of them. The immense revenue that flows
into the treasury department here, demands a suitable edifice for the
transaction of the business it creates. The site is the most eligible
that can be imagined. The Post-Office, United States Courts, and
warehouses for the storage of bonded merchandise, can all have ample
accommodation within its limits; and a more desirable location for
them cannot be found. An appropriation of $500 was made at the last
session of Congress, to secure a suitable plan for the buildings to
cover this spot. The plan has been prepared by Mr. Gallier, and is
highly approved by those who have examined it. It is to be hoped there
will be no unnecessary delay in completing a work, in which the public
convenience and economy, as well the accommodation of the mercantile
community, is so deeply interested. If Mr. Gallier's plan is adopted,
all the above departments will be clustered together in one central
spot, with ample room for each, and in a structure that will be at the
same time a durable ornament to the city, and an honor to the nation.
THE POST OFFICE
Is located in the Merchants' Exchange. It has two business fronts,
besides a passage way through the building, where letters and packages
are received for mailing. The private boxes have their delivery here,
where also the publishers of newspapers receive their exchanges and
communications. The general delivery for English letters is in
Exchange Place, those for letters in the foreign languages, and for
the ladies, are on Royal street. The edifice seems to answer the
purpose well; and, considering the extent of the establishment, the
duties of the office have been managed much to the satisfaction of the
public. But we look for something more worthy of the place, when the
new Custom House shall rear its noble front to the _father of rivers_.
THE STATE HOUSE
Formerly the Charity Hospital, and purchased by the state in 1834, is
a plain structure, composed of a centre and two detached wings; and is
finely situated on the square enclosed by Canal, Baronne, Common and
Philippa streets. The main entrance to the square, which is laid off
as a pleasure ground, and well kept, is from Canal street. The
principal building is occupied by chambers for the senate, and the
house--that for the latter being recently constructed. There are also
suitable rooms for the different clerks, and offices required by the
public business. The chamber for the house of representatives is
handsome, but, like some others in more conspicuous places, badly
adapted to public speaking.
In the right wing of the building is the office of the adjutant
general of Louisiana; it is also used as a temporary armory, until the
law for the erection of a new one is carried into execution. The left
room is occupied by offices for the governor, secretary of state,
state treasurer, and civil engineer.
The whole was built in 1815. It is in contemplation to erect an
edifice more worthy of the state, but when this will be done, or where
located, is as yet undetermined. It will probably not be within the
precincts of our city, as the late convention provides that the
Legislature shall not hold its sessions hereafter within sixty miles
of New Orleans. It is doubtless intended that the public servants
shall do more work, and less eating, drinking and carousing, than they
have heretofore done.
[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL]
THE CATHEDRAL
Or _Church of St. Louis_, is the principal and centre of three
buildings which stand on Chartres street, immediately opposite to the
_Place d'Armes_, or Parade Ground. This edifice forcibly strikes the
stranger by its venerable and antique appearance. There is perhaps,
none in the Union which is on this account more impressive. The
foundation of the building was laid in 1792, and it was, to a certain
extent, completed in 1794, at the expense of Don Andre Almonaster,
perpetual regidor, and Alvarez Real.
The architecture of the Cathedral is by no means pure, but is not
wanting in effect on this account. The lower story is of the rustic
order, flanked at each of the front angles by hexagonal towers,
projecting one half of their diameter, showing below Tuscan antes at
each angle, and above pilastres of plain mason-work, in the same
style, with antique wreaths on the frieze of the entablatures. These
towers are crowned by low spires, erected after Latrobe's designs,
about 1814.
The grand entrance to the Cathedral is in the middle of the front,
being a semi-circular arched door, with two clustered Tuscan columns
on either side. This entrance is flanked by two smaller doors, similar
to the principal one.
The second story of the front has the same general appearance, as to
the number of columns &c. as the lower one, but is of the Roman Doric
order. Above, and corresponding to the main entrance, is a circular
window, with niches on either side, above the flanking doors below. On
the apex of the pediment of this story rises the chief turret, being
in the Tuscan style, and in two parts--the lower being square, about
twenty feet in height, with circular apertures on each side; the upper
hexagonal, having a belfry, with apertures at the sides for letting
out the sound, flanked by antes. The proportions of the order are not
observed in this belfry, which was erected about 1824, by Le Riche.
The Cathedral has a tenure, to speak in legal phrase, of every
Saturday evening offering masses for the soul of its founder, Don
Andre. The requirement is faithfully observed, for as the day returns,
at set of sun, the mournful sound of the tolling bell recalls the
memory of the departed. This building is almost inseparably connected,
in the minds of the old residents, with the memory of the venerable
Pere Antonio de Sedella, curate of the parish for nearly fifty years.
This excellent old man, adored for his universal benevolence, came to
Louisiana, then a province, in 1779, and is supposed to have performed
nearly one half of the marriage and funeral ceremonies of its
inhabitants, until the period of his death, at the ripe age of nearly
ninety years, in 1837. This venerated relic of by gone days lies
buried at the foot of the altar.
[Illustration: ST. PATRICK'S CHURCH]
ST. PATRICK'S CHURCH
Is situated in Camp street, near Lafayette square. The design is a
triumph worthy of the genius of Gothic architecture, whether the
dimensions, or the splendor of the structure be considered.
The measurement is 93 feet by 164 on the ground; and from the side
walk to the summit of the tower, 190. The style is taken from the
famous York Minster Cathedral, and executed agreeably to the designs
of Messrs. Dakin & Dakin, which were adopted by the trustees of the
church. It surpasses every attempt at a similar order on this side of
the Atlantic, and when completed, may proudly challenge comparison
with any modern parochial edifice in Europe. It cost about $100,000.
ST. AUGUSTINE CHURCH
This structure, erected in 1841, stands on St. Claude street, corner
of Bayou road. It is about 50 feet front by 90 deep. The architect,
Mr. Depouilly, has displayed an excellent taste in its construction.
The style is of a mixed order, but extremely neat--and in such good
keeping, that the interior has the appearance of being much smaller
than it actually measures. The decorations are worthy of the
sacredness of the place. The colored glass of the windows throws a
beautiful mellowed light across the aisles, producing a chastened
effect suited to the solemnity of the place. Immediately over the
altar is a full length painting of the tutelar saint, which is
executed with the bold hand of a master. At the right of this is the
Virgin Mary, little inferior to the first, but finished with much
greater delicacy of touch. Our Saviour is conspicuously represented in
the ceiling, over the centre--around which, on the gallery below, and
between the windows, are portraits of the saints, arranged in the
panel-work. Take this church altogether, it is one of the neatest
houses of devotion in this city.
ST. ANTOINE'S, OR THE MORTUARY CHAPEL