Place the cage at eye level in a room where the temperature is moderate
and fairly even. Choose a light corner or a place near but to one side
of a bright and cheery window where the cage is never fully in the
direct sunshine and is away from drafts. When introducing a bird to a
new cage, place the cage away from the light. For an hour or two guard
against any noise or movement which may alarm the bird until he is
accustomed to his new home. It is not necessary to cover the cage at
night unless the room cools off rapidly to low temperatures or is
frequently lighted.
Modern cages are usually made of steel, and are rectangular in shape.
Those having a floor size about nine by fifteen inches are most popular.
The drawer tray should work smoothly. Lower perches should be arranged
directly beneath upper perches to avoid fouling, and just far enough in
from the ends to prevent the tail feathers breaking against the cage
bars. Seed and water cups should have smooth edges to help prevent loss
of feathers about the head and neck.
Perches should be of soft wood, preferably in both oval and round
shapes, and with different girths, to simulate the varied perching
conditions encountered by wild birds. The broad surface of oval perches
provides particularly good support and relaxed, strainless perching.
Gravel-coated perch covers are not recommended as they furnish an
excellent hiding place for mites and are irritating to the feet.
If possible, choose a sturdy, simply constructed cage with a minimum of
cracks, crevices, and joints which are difficult to scrub. Many cages
are made in such a way that their entire bottoms are removable. This is
convenient when giving the bird a bath, cleaning the cage floor, adding
gravel, and so forth. Always place your hands on the sides near the
bottom when lifting such a cage. If you were to place your hands at the
top of the cage, the bird would probably be frightened and fly out the
open bottom.