CHAPTER XIV
MAKING A TOY AUTO TRUCK (_Continued_)
TRUCK BODIES—DIFFERENT TYPES OF BODIES TO BE FITTED TO THE SAME
CHASSIS—THE TANK TRUCK—THE STREET SPRINKLER—THE COAL OR SAND
TRUCK—THE ARMY TRUCK—THE AMBULANCE—THE FIRE ENGINE
A permanent body of a certain type may be soldered directly to the rear
part of the chassis or slides may be soldered to the rear part of the
chassis and different types of truck bodies arranged to fit into these
slides so that one chassis may be arranged to hold a number of different
bodies. A coal truck may be transformed into a tank truck and from a tank
truck into an army truck or an ambulance, etc.
A driver’s cab may be fitted over the seat and any number of realistic
details added to the truck, limited only by the ability of the maker.
The wagon body is the simplest to make, as it may be made from a square
can with rounded corners. The two quart or gallon cans that have
contained olive or cooking oils make up into very realistic truck bodies.
The body of the army truck shown in the frontispiece was made from a
two-quart can that had contained a cooking oil of a very well-known
brand.
[Illustration: FIG. 74.]
The object is to find a rectangular can that is just about the width of
the chassis so that the tops of the wheels will clear it nicely. Cut
the can in two lengthwise, using the file to cut through the rounded or
rolled rims, see Fig. 74, _A_.
The can will probably be too long for a well proportioned body and will
have to be cut down to a suitable length, about 7 inches. Truck bodies
usually overhang the chassis. Study some of the big trucks seen on the
streets, as some of them are remarkably easy to reproduce.
If the can has to be shortened, use a can opener or the double cutting
shears and cut around the can 1 inch from either end until one end of
the can is completely cut away, then cut the shorter end down to ¼ inch
at the side, leaving that much of the side of the can so that it may be
slipped inside the other or larger part of the can when that part of the
can is cut down to a suitable length, when the shorter end is soldered in
place to form the end of the body, see Fig. 74, _B_.
When one end is cut off the can, cut the can in two lengthwise so that
the part to be used is about 1½ inches high, and then cut off the shorter
end so that it is also 1½ inches high to correspond to the other part of
the body. Then fit in the end of the can and solder it in place.
Cut four strips of tin ½ inch in width, two of them as long as the two
sides of the can and two as long as the ends and fold these strips over
to make a protection for the top edges of the body just as you did for
the lower edges of the chassis. Solder these strips in place and the body
is finished and ready to be soldered to the truck, see Fig. 74, _C_.
=Different Types of Bodies to be Fitted to the Same Chassis.=—The body
described above may be soldered directly to the chassis of the truck or
to a strip of tin and so arranged as to slide onto the chassis between
two slides made of folded tin. These slides are soldered directly to
the chassis in the rear of the seat and the different types of bodies
arranged to fit between them, thus using the same chassis for as many
different types of bodies as one cares to make for it.
The fixed slides should be made of two ½-inch strips of tin as long as
the back or floor of the chassis, about 6 inches. These strips are folded
over into a gutter shape as are the strips used to protect the bottom
edge of the truck frame, but the folded strips used for the slides are
left somewhat more open, about ⅛ inch between the edges, so that when
soldered to the truck a strip of tin may be easily slipped between them
as shown in Fig. 75.
A flat strip of tin should be cut as long as the two slides and of such
a width that it will fit easily into the slides soldered to the truck to
receive it. Care should be used when soldering the slides to the truck to
get them parallel with the sides of the frame and also parallel with each
other as shown in Fig. 75.
Several cross-members may be made of folded tin and may be soldered to
the flat piece of tin that is to slide between the slides. The truck body
should be soldered to these cross-members so that the body will clear
the fixed slides when slipped into place.
These cross-members or body supports are usually found under the bodies
of large trucks and they add a very realistic touch to the model. They
should be just long enough to clear the edges of the fixed slides when
attached to the flat strip of tin.
[Illustration: FIG. 75.]
Cut three pieces of tin 1¼ inches wide and long enough to make the
cross-members, about 3 inches (make sure of this measurement for
yourself). Scribe a line ⅜ inch in from each of the long sides of the
three pieces and then fold down two sides of each piece from the scribed
lines, making three cross-members or supports as shown in Fig. 76. Solder
these to the flat strip of tin that is to fit between the fixed slides.
The truck body should be soldered to these three supports.
A round can with the lid soldered on will make a very satisfactory tank
truck. A part of a small can, such as a tooth powder can, may be soldered
to the top of the tank for a filler dome and imitation faucets made of
wire or of brass cup hooks may be soldered to the rear of the tank and a
small delivery can may easily be made and hung on the faucets as shown in
Plate XIII.
[Illustration: FIG. 76.]
Six different types of truck bodies that may be attached to the chassis
are shown in Fig. 77.
=The Tank Truck.=—The tank truck is made from a rectangular cooking oil
can with a part of a small can soldered to the top. The faucets are made
of pieces of galvanized wire bent over at an angle.
=The Street Sprinkler.=—The street sprinkler may be made from a large
round can, such as a molasses or syrup can with the lid soldered on to
make it water tight. A hole is cut in the top of the can and the top, or
open end, of a small soup can is soldered over the hole. The sprinkler
tubes are made of strips of tin rolled around a large nail and then
soldered together.
[Illustration: FIG. 77.]
[Illustration: PLATE XIII
Oil tank truck made by Miss Nell Guilbert, Teachers College
Toy Ford made by author
Rear view of toy Ford made by author. Tires are made of teething rings]
[Illustration: PLATE XIV
Red Cross ambulance made by Miss Frances Jones
Rear of Red Cross ambulance made by Miss Jones]
The sprinkler ends are made of small round metal boxes with tiny holes
punched in the under side. A hole is punched in the top of each round box
and the sprinkler ends are soldered to the tubes and the tubes soldered
to the tank which has holes punched in it to admit water to the tubes in
such a way that the water contained in the tank will flow from the tank
into the tubes and out of the sprinkler holes punched in the small boxes.
These small boxes or sprinkler ends may be made of thumb tack boxes or
from two bottle caps soldered together, but the crinkled part should be
cut away from the bottle caps before soldering.
=The Coal or Sand Truck.=—The coal or sand truck body is made of less
than half of a rectangular cooking oil can, the top of each side flared
out and extra pieces fitted to each end so as to fit into the flaring
sides and to each end. All sharp edges should be folded over or extra
folded strips of tin folded over and placed over the edges of the truck
body.
=The Army Truck.=—The army truck body is made from part of a cooking
oil can. Galvanized wire of small diameter is bent into hoop form and
soldered to the sides. These hoops may be covered with a khaki-colored
cloth like the one shown on the large army truck in frontispiece; a
khaki-colored handkerchief will make an excellent cover for a small
truck.
[Illustration: FIG. 78.]
=The Ambulance.=—The ambulance body may be made from a large cooking oil
can. Both ends are cut out of the can and the extra tin trimmed away.
One side of the can is cut off and a flat piece of tin soldered across
the open side of the can to form the floor of the ambulance. A hood to
cover the driver’s seat is made from the curved side of the can cut away
to form the floor of the body. Two strips of tin may be soldered to the
side of the body to form seats or stretchers and two pieces of galvanized
wire may be soldered to the seats and to the floor and roof of the body
to form handles. The rear step may be made of a piece of folded tin and
two pieces of galvanized wire as shown. A realistic touch may be given to
the ambulance by making a small curtain of carriage leather and attaching
it to the rear of the roof so that it may be rolled up and fastened in
place.
=The Fire Engine.=—The fire engine boiler may be made from a tomato can
with several different sized can lids soldered to the bottom to form
the smoke hood and a cylinder of tin soldered to the lids to form a
chimney. The flaring top of the chimney may be made of the small center
lid sometimes found in the ends of round cans. This small lid or sealer
may be melted off, the center cut out of it, and then may be soldered
to the top of the chimney. The steam gauge and water gauge may be made
of the screw tops of cooking oil cans. The water glass may be made of a
small piece of galvanized wire and the try cocks of rivets soldered to
the boiler. The rivets may be held in place while soldering by a pair of
pliers.
The boiler platform may be made of a sardine can. The engine and pump
cylinders may be made of adhesive tape boxes or strips of tin rolled into
cylindrical form and ends soldered in place. The engine wheel may be made
from an evaporated milk can. The air chamber may be made from a nickeled
shaving stick box or a brass curtain pole ball. The whistle may be made
from a used .22 cartridge case, etc.
CHAPTER XV
MAKING A TOY AUTO TRUCK (_Continued_)
THE STARTING CRANK—THE STEERING WHEEL AND COLUMN—MUD GUARDS AND
RUNNING BOARDS—LIGHTS, TOOL BOXES, HORNS, ETC.—DRIVERS’ CABS
Various fittings may be added to the truck and these add very much to the
general appearance and make the truck very realistic.
=The Starting Crank.=—A starting crank may be made of a piece of
galvanized wire bent into a crank shape and placed in position through
holes punched for it in front of the frame and through an extra piece
soldered underneath the frame.
Cut a piece of galvanized wire about 5 inches in length. Fairly heavy
wire will look better than thin wire when made up into a crank. Mark off
1 inch from one end of the wire and then make another mark 1 inch in
from this one. Place the wire in the vise jaws so that the first mark is
parallel with the top of the jaws. Use a hammer to bend the wire over at
right angles, then move the wire up to the second mark and bend the wire
again at right angles so as to produce a crank form as shown in Fig. 79.
Use an ice pick to punch a hole in the front of the truck frame and make
it large enough so that the crank will turn in it freely.
Cut a piece of tin ¾ by ¾ inches and bend over ¼ inch at one end and
punch a hole to fit the crank wire in the center of the largest side of
this piece and solder it in position directly back of the hole punched in
the front of the frame and in such a position that the end of the crank
wire projects about ¼ inch beyond the small angle piece soldered to the
frame, as shown in Fig. 80.
[Illustration: FIG. 79.]
[Illustration: FIG. 80.]
[Illustration: FIG. 81.]
Wind a narrow strip of tin about the straight projecting end of the crank
wire and solder it in place, the solder being applied to the end of the
wire and to the end of the coiled strip of tin at the same time, Fig. 81.
=The Steering Wheel and Column.=—A steering wheel may be made of an
old clock gear wheel with the teeth cut off, or a small can lid may be
used instead. The steering wheel column may be made of a piece of heavy
galvanized wire.
Clock gear wheels are usually fastened to a short steel shaft, but they
may be easily driven off the shaft by placing the shaft of the wheel in
the vise jaws so that the wheel is above the vise jaws, and then a few
light hammer blows directed at the upper end of the shaft will loosen the
wheel and it may be easily removed. The vise jaws should hold the shaft
very loosely as it is being driven out of the wheel.
Use the metal shears to cut off the gear teeth and a smooth flat file to
file down the roughness left at the edge of the wheel.
Find a piece of galvanized wire that fits into the hole in the clock
wheel or file a larger piece down until it does fit. The wire should
project slightly beyond the wheel and be soldered to it in exactly the
same manner as the tin can wheel is soldered to an axle. The wire that
the steering gear is soldered to should be long enough to go through
the dash-board, hood and frame, if the wheel is to turn. A strip of tin
is coiled about the wire below the frame as shown in Fig. 82. These are
soldered in place to the wire to keep it in position and yet allow it to
turn freely in the holes.
=Mud Guards and Running Boards.=—Mud guards may be made from a part of
the side and bottom of a can as shown in Fig. 83. A 3-inch can is the
best size to use for the truck. The can is cut down to a height of 1⅛
inches and then cut into two parts across the bottom so that two mud
guards may be made from each can. The outer edges are turned as in making
a tray and folded pieces are slipped over the ends as shown in Fig. 83.
These mud guards are soldered to the frame in the position shown.
[Illustration: FIG. 82.]
Running boards may be made of two pieces of tin, each piece to be cut 1¼
inches wide and as long as it is desired. The four pieces are each turned
down ⅛ inch at the long sides and two pieces are fitted over each other
to make one running board as shown in Fig. 84. Two or three supports may
be made of galvanized wire for the running boards. These supports extend
across the frame of the truck and one end of each support is soldered to
each running board. One end of each running board is usually soldered to
each mud guard.
[Illustration: FIG. 83.]
=Lights, Horns, etc.=—Headlights may be made of thumb tack boxes, bottle
caps or the tops of tooth powder cans. Sidelights may be made from the
screw caps of cooking oil cans or the cylindrical part of tooth powder
can tops.
Tail-lights may be made of the screw caps of cooking oil cans.
Searchlights may be made of the smallest size adhesive tape boxes mounted
on suitable standards made of galvanized wire or strips of tin.
[Illustration: FIG. 84.]
The central part of the cover of these boxes is cut away and a piece of
isinglass or transparent celluloid may be fitted in to look like a lens.
The central part is cut away by using a small chisel to cut with when the
cover is placed over the end of a round stick held in the vise. The rough
edges are smoothed away by using a smooth half-round file.
The construction of these lights is so simple as to need no further
explanation and they are simply soldered to the frame or hood where they
touch it when placed in position. The searchlight is usually mounted by
punching a hole for the standard in the cowl, or by soldering on an
extra piece to the dash to receive the wire standard, Fig. 85.
[Illustration: FIG. 85.]
=Tool Boxes, Horns, etc.=—Small rectangular beef cube or chewing gum
boxes may be soldered to the running board for tool boxes. These boxes
have rounded corners and look very much like the large tool boxes, Fig.
85.
[Illustration: FIG. 86.]
Horns may be made in several ways, the simplest form being a piece of
tin rolled into a cone shape and soldered to the dash. A more realistic
horn may be made by soldering a screw cap to the larger end of the cone
and adding the cap of a paint tube to the smaller end. A hand horn may be
made as shown in Fig. 85.
Speedometers, voltmeters and ammeters may be made of screw tops soldered
inside the dash as shown.
=Drivers’ Cabs.=—Most of the large trucks have some kind of a cab to
protect the driver from the weather, excepting the army trucks, which
usually depend on part of the canvas hood or cover for protection.
On the toy trucks these cabs may be very simply made from a square tin
cocoa or olive oil can or they may be more elaborately built, depending
on the ability of the maker. These cabs should be carefully made and kept
in proportion to the rest of the truck.
All sharp edges should be turned over or bound with folded strips of
tin. Windows may be cut in the cab by placing it on the block and using
a small chisel to cut them out. The edges of these windows should all be
bound with folded strips of tin as shown in the illustration.
The buggy top for the driver’s seat may be made from part of a certain
well-known curved tobacco box and several short pieces of galvanized
wire, Fig. 86.
CHAPTER XVI
BOATS
THE ROWBOAT—THE SAILBOAT—THE SCOW—THE TUGBOAT—THE
BATTLESHIP—THE FERRY-BOAT
The elliptically shaped tin cans, used for fish of different kinds, may
be made up into boats that will float. A deck is soldered tightly to the
can where the lid has been removed and various superstructures added to
make the different types of boats, but to form a rowboat, seats may be
soldered to an open can.
=The Rowboat.=—The rowboat is the simplest one to make as no deck is to
be soldered on. A narrow elliptical fish can should be used. These cans
usually contain fresh mackerel, and are of real boat shape.
Such cans are opened at the top inside the rolled rim. The extra tin near
the edge of rim should be broken away with the pliers as in making a
pail, all roughness being filed away.
Lay the can face down on a sheet of paper, drawing around the outside
edge with a sharp pencil to get an outline of the boat. This outline will
serve as a guide when cutting out the seats. The seats may be cut to the
outline of the boat already traced on paper, when the two end seats will
fit bow and stern. But the center seat will have to be trimmed off a bit
to fit the boat. The free edges of the seats must be turned down as a
finish.
=The Sailboat.=—A catboat or sloop may be made from the same sort of
narrow elliptical can or even of a wider can of the same shape. A deck is
soldered to this can, a hole cut in it for a cockpit. To the edge of the
cockpit a folded band of tin is soldered.
A tube of tin is soldered to the stern, and a wire tiller is run through
this tube and soldered to a rudder. A hole is punched in the center of
the forward deck, and a tube of tin is soldered in this hole to contain
the mast. The mast and spars are of wood.
The keel is made of a piece of tin soldered to the bottom of the boat.
The boat should be completed, and the mast, spars and sails in place,
before the keel is put on. Try the boat in a basin of water. It will
probably tip over unless a very broad can is used to make it. Cut out a
keel of the shape shown in Fig. 87 and solder it lightly in place at each
end. Place the boat in the water again to see how it floats. If the keel
is too heavy, part of it may be cut off, if it is too light, it may be
broken away and a heavier one made and soldered on. When properly made
these boats are good sailers.
When soldering a deck to the boat, the rough edge remaining after cutting
away the lid of the can is left in place so as to form a sort of ledge
to solder the deck to. The rough flutings may be flattened out by using
a pair of flat-nosed pliers to press down the flutes as you work along
and simply pinching it flat.
[Illustration: FIG. 87.]
=The Scow.=—A small scow may be made from a biscuit box of flat tin,
the kind that has contained small sweet biscuits with a cream filling.
Both box and lid are used and cut down as indicated in Fig. 88. The box
is left at the original width. The two ends are cut away from the lid.
The two folded-down sides of the lid are used to make folded strips with
which to bind the sides of the scow.
A tiny box made of part of the lid is soldered to the rear deck of the
scow for a cabin. A small piece of galvanized wire bent at an angle
is soldered to the cabin for a stovepipe. The towing bits are rivets
soldered to the forward deck.
=The Tugboat.=—Tugboats may be made from the larger elliptical fish cans.
A good sized can of this sort is that one commonly found to contain
kippered herring. This can will make up into a large tugboat, but if a
small tug is to be made to tow the scow previously described, a mackerel
roe can is the best to use.
A deck is soldered tightly to the can, as in making the sailboat, except
that the deck is left whole; no openings are cut in it.
The cabin is made from a rectangular cocoa can, or a small olive oil can,
cut down to a suitable height and soldered to the deck, bottom up.
[Illustration: FIG. 88.]
The pilot house is made from a small adhesive plaster box, the
smokestack being from a small piece of tin with top edge first folded
over and then rolled into a cylindrical shape. A piece of wire may
be soldered to the stack for an exhaust pipe. A tiny piece of wire is
soldered to the front of the stack for a whistle. These pieces of wire
may be tied to the stack with fine iron binding wire, such as florists
use. When the wire exhaust and whistle are soldered to the stack the wire
may then be removed. It will be found very difficult to solder these
short pieces in place without binding them in position.
[Illustration: PLATE XV
_Courtesy Pictorial Review_
Boats made by author]
The lifeboat is made from a small folded piece of tin, both ends being
pushed in and soldered together. The finished boat is soldered to the
roof of the cabin.
The towing bits are rivets soldered to the deck. Remember to use the
pliers to hold the rivets in place when soldering them on. When these
boats are floated in the water they may be found to tip to one side
slightly. A bit of solder may be melted on to the bottom of the boat with
the copper in such a position that it will counteract any tendency to tip.
=The Battleship, Destroyers, etc.=—The battleship shown in Plate XV is
made from a narrow elliptical fish can. A deck is soldered on and a cabin
made of a small rectangular box such as beef cubes usually are packed in.
The turrets are made of pill or salve boxes of small round tin design.
The lid of the box is soldered to the deck and when the box is set in the
lid the turret may be turned about.
The guns are made of short pieces of wire soldered to the turrets and
cabin.
The mast is made of a tin oil can spout or a piece of tin rolled into a
cone shape. A screw cap of a tooth paste tube is soldered to it for a
fighting top.
Some sort of a keel will have to be soldered to the battleship to keep
it upright in the water. Three pieces of heavy galvanized wire may be
soldered to the bottom, one in the center and one at each side, or a
strip of sheet lead may be soldered to the bottom.
A destroyer may be built up in the same manner as the battleship; in
fact, almost any type of boat may be built by changing the superstructure.
=The Ferry-boat.=—A ferry-boat may be built with paddle wheels that will
revolve when the boat is pulled along in the water or anchored in a
running stream.
The hull is made from a kippered herring can with a deck soldered on.
Four strips of tin are cut for the sides of the cabins. Two of these are
soldered to the sides of the hull next to the rolled rim and following
the outline of the can or hull. The two inside walls of the cabins are
soldered about ¾ of an inch inside the outer walls which leaves a gangway
through the center of the boat.
An upper deck is soldered to these four walls; the inner walls need only
be soldered to the upper deck at each end.
The two pilot houses are made of adhesive plaster boxes and the
smokestack is rolled up from a piece of tin.
A hole is punched or drilled through all four walls of the cabin to
receive the axle of the paddle wheels.
The paddle wheels are made from small cans exactly in the same way as
the auto truck wheels and eight small square pieces of tin are soldered
to the circumference of each wheel for paddles. Rolled strips of tin are
placed on the axles between the wheels and the cabins for washers. The
axle should revolve very freely in the axle holes.
If one has some mechanical ability it is not very difficult to form a
crank in the paddle wheel axle and attach a connecting rod to a small tin
walking beam which will move up and down as the paddle wheels revolve. An
imitation piston rod may be fastened to the other end of the walking beam
and allowed to run free through a hole in the upper deck.
The wheels of the ferry-boat will revolve if it is anchored in a running
stream or towed behind a rowboat.
CHAPTER XVII
A TOY LOCOMOTIVE
A SIMPLE TOY LOCOMOTIVE—THE FRAME—BOILER—CAB—WHEELS—CYLINDERS
AND CONNECTING RODS—THE SMOKESTACK, STEAM DOME AND WHISTLE,
SAND BOX AND HEADLIGHT—CARS—A PASSENGER CAR AND SOME OTHERS
The locomotive shown in Plate XV is made so that the connecting rods
move back and forth as the locomotive is pulled along. The principal
dimensions are given in Fig. 89. This locomotive is not much more
difficult to make than the auto truck, but it should not be attempted
until the auto truck is satisfactorily completed.
=The Frame.=—The frame of the locomotive should be made first, and it
is made from a flat piece of tin 5¼ by 10½ inches. Scribe a line ¼ inch
inside and along all edges, cut off the corners as shown in Fig. 89 and
fold all four edges in. Cut into the corners of the frame on lines _A_,
_A_, _A_, _A_.
[Illustration: PLATE XVI
Simple toy locomotive and sand or water mill made by the author
The first tin can toy. A locomotive made by the author for his son]
[Illustration: PLATE XVII
_Courtesy New York World_
Steam tractor and gun unpainted]
Turn down the two sides of the frame first, then turn down the two ends.
The four pieces of the sides that project beyond the sides are turned in
over the ends as shown in Fig. 89. The sides and ends of the frame may be
turned over a square maple block. Solder the frame at the ends.
[Illustration: FIG. 89.]
=The Boiler.=—The boiler is made of two small soup cans. One whole can is
used and the bottom and part of the sides of another can of exactly the
same size is soldered to the first can to make a long boiler. One long
can, if obtainable, may be used for the boiler. When two or more cans are
soldered together to make a long boiler the two rolled rims of the cans
soldered together give the appearance of a boiler strap as shown in Fig.
89.
=The Cab.=—The cab is made of a rectangular cocoa can. Most of one side
is cut away leaving just enough to fold back against the sides of the
cab. The cab is then placed on a wooden block and a chisel is used to cut
the window openings. A large round punch may be used to cut out the front
windows or a very small chisel made of a nail may be used to cut these
circular windows.
A top is made for the cab from a piece of tin 3¾ by 3¾ inches square.
One-quarter inch is marked off and turned in all around this piece. Two
opposite sides are folded down and the two other sides are left standing
at right angles to the piece and these two opposite sides are left open
just enough to slide over the top of box forming the cab where the top is
soldered in place as shown in the drawing.
The boiler should be soldered to the cab and then these two are soldered
to the frame where they touch it at the front end of the boiler and the
base of the cab.
=The Wheels.=—The front wheels of the locomotive are made of the small
sized evaporated milk cans exactly in the same way that the wheels of the
auto truck are made. These wheels are 2½ inches in diameter and ⅝ inch
wide.
The wire axle of the front wheels passes through two lugs that are
soldered to the sides of the frame.
The driving wheels are made from 3½-inch rolled-rim cans. The axle for
these wheels passes directly through holes in the sides of the frame.
A piece of galvanized wire 1¼ inches in length is used for driving
pins for the connecting rods on each driving wheel. Each piece of wire
is placed through two holes in the driving wheel, these holes being
directly opposite each other and exactly ½ inch from the center of each
wheel. As these driving pins pass entirely through the wheel they should
be soldered to each side of it in order to give added strength, as
they would break away from the wheels very easily if they did not pass
entirely through the wheel and were not supported by each side of it.
=Cylinders and Connecting Rods.=—These cylinders are rolled up from
flat pieces of tin each 2¼ by 3¼ inches. The tin is folded over on the
two shortest sides of each piece before it is formed into a cylindrical
shape, the folded sides of the tin forming each end of the cylinders.
The connecting rods are made of two strips of tin, each ¾ by 6¼ inches.
Both sides of the strip are folded in, making a triple thickness of tin
and a connecting rod about ⁵⁄₁₆ inch wide and 6¼ inches long.
A disk of tin is soldered to one end of each connecting rod. These disks
should be somewhat smaller than the diameter of the cylinders so that
they may slide easily back and forth inside the cylinders.
The connecting rods have to be bent at the two angles shown in Fig. 89 so
that each rod may be in line with the cylinder and with the driving wheel.
=The Smokestack, Steam Dome and Whistle, Sand Box and Headlight.=—The
smokestack is rolled up from a piece of tin 2¾ by 2⅞ inches. This piece
of tin is cut from the side of a can so as to leave the rolled rim at the
top for the rim of the stack.
The steam dome is made of the top part of a tooth powder can with the
distributer top left on. This top is left open to form a whistle. That
part of the tooth powder can which rests against the boiler must be
fitted very carefully so as to conform to the curve of the boiler.
The sand box may be made from a bottle cap and the headlight may be made
from another bottle cap as shown in the drawing.
=Cars.=—A coal tender for the locomotive may be made from a small square
box mounted on a frame or platform similar to the locomotive, only
smaller. The car wheels may be made from the small evaporated milk cans
or from any small cans obtainable.
A freight car may be made from a long square box in a manner similar to
the coal tender. Passenger cars may be made from long rectangular cans
and the windows and doors may be cut or painted on the sides or ends. Be
sure to place folded strips of tin over any raw edges left when cutting
out windows and doors.
=A Passenger Car and Some Others.=—A passenger car may be made from
an olive or cooking oil can; that is, about half of one of the larger
cans cut lengthwise. Select a can so that when it is cut lengthwise to
dimension it will be in proportion to the locomotive which is to be used
with it. No dimensions are given in the drawings as these cans vary in
size, but it is not difficult to find a suitable rectangular can for a
passenger car.
When the can is cut open, draw two parallel lines along the sides for
window openings. Do not try to cut each window separately, but cut one
long opening for all the windows, bind the cut edges with folded strips
and then solder folded pieces across the window openings at intervals for
divisions between the windows.
Cut a door in each end of the car and bind the edges with folded tin. The
projecting hoods over the door at each end of the car roof may be made
of part of the sides and bottom of a square can or from that part of the
olive or cooking oil can that is cut away in making the body of the car.
[Illustration: FIG. 90.]
A flat piece of tin may be used for the bottom of the car, this piece
being formed in exactly the same way that the frame of the auto truck is
formed. It is made long enough to allow for a platform at each end of the
car, and the car body is soldered securely to it.
Car wheels may be made from very small cans as any other tin can wheels
are made. Two bottle caps may be soldered together for a wheel or several
flat disks of tin may be cut and soldered together at the edges to form
a wheel. The tin washers used with roofing nails make an excellent wheel
when two are soldered together, back to back. Never try to use a single
can lid, bottle cap or tin disk for a wheel that is to bear any weight.
Any of these are too weak to stand up alone. The wheels are mounted in
the manner shown in the drawings of the passenger car.
Other cars may be made from cans as shown in Fig. 90, the construction
being so simple as to need no further description. These cars may be made
as simple or as elaborate as the skill of the maker permits.
CHAPTER XVIII
SIMPLE MECHANICAL TOYS
WATER WHEELS AND SANDMILLS—A SIMPLE STEAM TURBINE AND BOILER—A
WINDMILL AND TOWER—AEROPLANE WEATHERVANE
Water wheels and sandmills may be made from bottle caps and can lids.
Two push-in or friction-top can lids are soldered together to form a
flanged wheel and bottle caps are soldered between the flanges, at
equal intervals, for the buckets. The general construction is shown in
Fig. 91. A nozzle may be formed from a piece of tin and soldered to the
standard so that a hose may be connected with it and to faucet, or, the
water wheel may be set in a sink under a faucet or placed in a stream of
running water.
A funnel or sand hopper may be made of tin and soldered to a standard
which holds the bucket wheel. Fine dry sand placed in the hopper will run
through the hole in the bottom and cause the bucket wheel to revolve.
=A Simple Steam Turbine and Boiler.=—A very simple and amusing steam
turbine that runs with steam generated in a tin-can boiler may be made
from tin cans. Select a well-soldered can with a tight-fitting lid,
such as a molasses or syrup can with a friction-top lid. The lid will
have to be soldered in place to make it steam tight.
[Illustration: FIG. 91.]
Punch a hole about ¼ inch in diameter near one side of the lid for a
filler hole. See that this hole is perfectly round so that a cork may be
fitted in to make it steam tight.
The vane wheel should be about 3 inches in diameter and very carefully
made. See that the axle is soldered exactly in the center of the
wheel. The vanes should be small and numerous and each one exactly the
same size. The method of construction is shown on page 183 (full page
drawing). A 3-inch circle is carefully laid out on a flat piece of tin
and then another circle is laid off inside the first one about ¾ inch in.
The outer circle is then divided up into 36 equal parts. Draw straight
lines from each dividing dot at the edge to the center of the wheel. Bore
a small hole exactly where each line crosses the inner circle. Cut down
each dividing line to each hole. Use the pliers to turn each vane at
right angles to the face of the wheel.
The steam nozzle should be very small. A triangular piece of tin may
be formed around a fine wire nail or pin. The opening in the nozzle
should be about ⅟₃₂ inch in diameter. The nozzle should be well soldered
together and then soldered to the boiler, over a hole of a suitable size
to allow the steam to flow from the boiler into the nozzle. Be sure
not to solder up the tube so that the steam may not escape. A piece of
broom straw may be placed in the nozzle when soldering it together, and
it may be left in when the nozzle is soldered to the boiler. The straw
should extend into the boiler and may be withdrawn when the soldering
operations are completed. Do not use wire inside the nozzle to prevent it
filling with solder as the solder will stick to it and prevent its being
withdrawn.
Use care in placing the nozzle in position under the vane wheel so that
the steam will strike the vanes squarely when it escapes. Set the end of
the nozzle as close to the vanes as possible, but so that it does not
strike the vanes when the wheel revolves.
These turbines run at very high speed when carefully made. Do not use too
much heat under the boiler, as too great pressure may explode it with
disastrous results. If the boiler is set over a gas flame, take care
not to allow the flame to flare out around the boiler and creep up the
sides, as it may then melt off the top of the boiler even when there is
considerable water in it. A moderate flame will cause enough pressure to
be generated in the boiler to make the vane wheel revolve rapidly. If
care is used in fitting the cork in the filler hole, it may be made steam
tight by pushing it into the filler hole with a light pressure so that if
too much pressure is generated in the boiler the cork will blow out.
A pinion from a small clock works may be soldered to the vane wheel
shaft and meshed in with a large gear which is set on a shaft soldered to
the supporting upright at one side of the wheel. A small pulley may be
made of wood or metal and fastened to the large gear. This arrangement
of gears will give a reduced speed and a string belt may be run from the
pulley to some light running toy machine. The pinion and gear fastened to
the turbine should run very easily.
An alcohol heating lamp may be made for the turbine boiler by soldering a
wick tube and a vent tube to a shoe paste or salve box.
The wick tube should be made from a strip of tin rolled up into a
cylindrical shape. It should be about ½ inch in diameter and 1½ inches in
length when soldered together. The wick tube should extend about 1 inch
above the top of the lamp and it should be soldered firmly in a hole cut
in the top of the lamp to receive it.
A small tube about ¼ inch in diameter and 3 inches long is soldered
together. This tube should be soldered over a hole near the side of the
lamp at the top and soldered on at an angle as shown in Fig. 91. It
serves as a vent, allowing the alcohol gas generated within the top of
the lamp to escape and it also serves as a handle. An alcohol lamp fitted
with a vent tube of this description will not boil over and catch fire
as so many of the small alcohol lamps provided with toy steam engines
are sure to do. Vent tubes soldered to these lamps in such a manner as
to conduct the gas away from the flame will provide against accidents of
this sort.
A filler hole should be placed in the top of the lamp as far away from
the wick tube as possible. A common cork may be used as a stopper. A
small funnel may be easily made from some pieces of scrap tin and used
for filling the boiler and the lamp.
=A Windmill and Tower.=—A windmill and tower that will look very
realistic when completed may be made from tin cans. The vane wheel is
composed of twelve blades set in two can lids. The vanes are cut from a
flat piece of tin, care being taken to make each one exactly the same
size. A large can lid is used for the outer vane support and the central
part of this lid is cut away. Twelve cuts are made around the edge of the
can lid at equal distances and the vanes soldered in these cuts.
A small can lid is used for the center of the wheel and the ends of the
vanes soldered to it.
The tower is made of strips of folded tin and the tank from a tin can is
shown in Fig. 92.
=Aeroplane Weathervane.=—A biplane weathervane may be made from flat
strips of tin. Large round or square cans may be opened out and the
tin taken from them used to make the aeroplane weathervane. When this
weathervane is mounted on a suitable spike on which it may turn about
freely in the wind, the propeller will revolve rapidly when the wind
blows.
[Illustration: FIG. 92.]
[Illustration: PLATE XVIII
Aeroplane weather vanes made by the author]
The construction of the aeroplane is quite simple and the principal
dimensions are given in Fig. 93. The construction is very well shown in
Plate XVIII. If the foregoing problems have been satisfactorily worked
out there will be no difficulty in constructing the aeroplane from the
dimensions given.
The two wings are made from two pieces of tin of the required size with
the edges folded over.
The body of fuselage is made of a long triangular piece of tin folded up
on each side so as to form a sort of long tapering box. A cover is made
for this box and divided into two parts so as to leave a cockpit opening.
The struts or wing supports are made from narrow strips of tin that are
folded almost together for strength. The small guy wires had best be
made from copper wire of small diameter. If it is difficult to get small
copper wire, it may be possible to get two or three feet of insulated
copper wire used for electrical purposes. Such wire is employed to wind
small magnets used on electric bells. The insulation easily burns off.
Copper wire solders very easily.
[Illustration: FIG. 93.]
The rudder and tail planes are made from flat pieces of tin. A straight
piece of wire is used for the propeller shaft. A tube is made of tin and
used as a bearing for the shaft. The propeller shaft should fit very
loosely in the tube. The bearing tube is soldered firmly to the body
of the aeroplane as shown in Fig. 93. When completely assembled, except
for the propeller and its shaft, the propeller is soldered to one end of
the shaft. Care should be taken to mount the propeller blade in such
a way that the shaft is exactly in the center, so that one side of the
propeller is not heavier than the other. The shaft is pushed through the
bearing tube and should project about ¼ inch beyond it. A strip of tin is
wound around this projecting end of the shaft and soldered to it in such
a manner that the shaft is free to turn in the tube.
When the plane is completely assembled try it to find the point at
which it balances when rested on the finger under the fuselage. A hole
should be punched at this point large enough to admit the iron rod or
piece of heavy wire that is to be used for the spike on which to mount
the weathervane. A second hole is punched directly above the first one;
this hole is considerably smaller than the hole beneath it. The top of
the iron spike that supports the aeroplane weathervane is filed down to
a smaller diameter so that when the spike is pushed through the larger
hole the smaller or filed part of the spike will go through the hole in
the upper part of the fuselage. The weathervane will then rest on the
shoulder formed on the spike as shown in the illustration. A block of
wood may be nailed to the roof peak of the house or barn and a hole bored
into it the size of the supporting spike, and the spike may be pushed
into this and the aeroplane weathervane mounted on the spike. It should
be well painted in bright colors and if well made will prove a very
pleasing toy.
CHAPTER XIX
CANDLESTICKS
WALL SCONCES, AND A LANTERN
The base of the tall candlestick shown in Fig. 94 is made of various
sized cans cut down to tray-like forms and soldered together. As may be
seen by studying them, the shafts are made from ordinary tin campaign
horns. The drip cups are made of press-in can lids or from small cans
cut down to tray-like shapes. All sharp edges are to be turned over. The
candle sockets are formed in the same way as that of the candlestick
described in Chapter VIII, page 94.
The wall sconces are made of large olive or cooking oil cans or the cans
that have contained automobile lubricating oils. All edges should be
turned or bound with folded strips of tin. Sconce No. 2 may be made of a
flat sheet of tin and half of a large round can cut down to tray size.
Sconce No. 3 may be made of a large round can cut down to shape.
[Illustration: PLATE XIX
A lantern made by the author
A fighting tank made by the author. The tank is made of two mackerel
tins. Parts of pepper boxes, bottle caps and a few nails used as guns]
The lantern is not made from a rectangular can, but it is made from
two square pieces of tin used for the top and bottom, part of a can
being fitted in a hole cut in the square piece used for the top of the
lantern. The four corner pieces of the lantern are made of strips of tin
cut at a right angle.
[Illustration: FIG. 94.]
A sliding door is made from a flat sheet of tin, this door sliding
between two folded strips of tin which are soldered to the framework of
the lantern. Three pieces of glass are used for the lantern, as these
are held in place by small pieces of tin folded at an angle, one part of
which rests against the glass and the other part is soldered to the tin
work of the lantern. These pieces are put in place as each piece of glass
is placed in the lantern, one at the top and the other at the bottom of
each piece of glass.
CHAPTER XX
CAMP AND KITCHEN EQUIPMENT
A COFFEE POT—BOILING PAILS—FRYING PAN—TOASTER—A CAMP SHOWER
BATH—CANTEEN OR HOT WATER BOTTLE—A MATCH BOX
An excellent coffee pot may be made from a gallon can or from a smaller
one. This tin must be of the rolled rim or locked seam type so that it
will not melt apart or leak if it should accidently boil dry.
Lugs are riveted to the side of the can as described in making a pail in
Chapter IX, page 100. A series of small holes are punched in a triangular
formation in such a manner that they will be immediately back of the
spout when this is soldered in place.
The spout is made of a separate piece of tin of a triangular shape. This
piece of tin is formed into shape and is then riveted to the coffee pot
over the strainer holes. After it is held in place by the rivets it is
tightly soldered so that it will not leak. The rivets are to prevent the
spout from melting off.
A lid for the coffee pot may be made from the bottom of another can
of the same size. Some cans are provided with a cover and these make
excellent coffee pots.
=Boiling or Cooking Pails.=—The boiling or cooking pails are made in the
same manner as the pails described in Chapter IX, page 100. Care should
be taken to use only rolled rim or locked seam pails for any utensil that
is to go over a fire.
=Frying Pan.=—The frying pan is made by cutting down a large round or
square can of the rolled or locked seam type. The edges are turned and a
suitable handle is riveted on as shown. Be sure to rivet all joints that
are to be subjected to the heat from a fire.
=Toaster.=—A toaster or broiler may be made from folded strips of tin
which are strongly riveted together as shown in Fig. 95. Be sure to put
two rivets in each corner of the toaster.
=The Canteen or Hot Water Bottle.=—The canteen or hot water bottle may be
made of two cake or pie tins soldered together or from large round gallon
cans cut to size and made up like a large tin can wheel. A water-tight
screw cap may be fitted to the canteen by removing the screw top and cap
from a maple syrup or automobile oil can and soldering the screw over a
suitable hole in the canteen. Most of these screw caps may be melted off
the original can by simply heating them, the cap itself being removed
during this operation.
[Illustration: PLATE XX
A toy tin can kitchen made by author. The body of the range is made of a
biscuit box. The draught door is made of the top of a pepper box, with
sifter top. The ash door is made of the bottom of a pepper box. The oven
door is made of the hinged tin lid of a little cigar box. The stove lids
are made of can lids. The door handles are rivets. The range boiler is
made of a long can; pipes are made of wire. The tea kettle is made of a
shoe paste box.]
[Illustration: PLATE XXI
A doll’s bathroom made by the author. The bath tub is made of a corn
can, cut in half lengthwise. Part of another can of the same size is
fitted with the open end of the first can. The edges are turned over. The
washstand is made of the top and bottom of a spice box; the bowl is made
of a varnish can cap. The column is made of a pill box. The mirror is
made of a can lid.
A tin can laundry made by the author. The laundry tubs are made of a
cigarette box. Rivets are used as faucets. The sink is made of a pocket
tobacco box. Cup hooks are used as faucets. The clock is made of a small
tin box and can lids.]
=A Camp Shower Bath.=—A camp shower bath may be made of a very large
can, a shoe paste box, a short length of rubber hose and two small flat
pieces of tin.
[Illustration: FIG. 95.]
A 5-gallon can that has contained automobile oil is easily found and
a hot lye bath will remove all traces of the oil. The lye solution is
placed in the can and raised to the boiling point. It is then poured out
and the can is rinsed with hot water.
[Illustration: FIG. 96.]
The top of the can is removed and a strong handle fixed to the can. A
small nipple of tin is soldered to the side of the can, near the bottom.
This nipple is simply a flat piece of tin rolled into a cylindrical shape
and of a suitable size so that a piece of rubber hose may be fitted
tightly over it.
A second nipple of the same size should be made for the spray nozzle. The
spray nozzle is made from a shoe paste or salve box. A number of fine
holes are punched in the box lid and the tin pipe or nipple is soldered
in a hole made for it in the bottom of the box.
A wire hook is provided at the rim of the pail to hold the spray nozzle
in place when it is not desired to have the water run out of it.
It will be found convenient to have a double pulley and rope rigged to
hoist the pail to a convenient height after filling.
=The Match Box.=—The match box is made of two cigarette boxes, one for
good matches and the other for burned matches. These boxes are of ample
size to hold the paper drawer of a large box of parlor matches.
The hinged top is left on the box that is to hold the unburned matches.
This box is soldered to two supporting brackets in such a manner that it
is held away from the piece of tin forming the back for the two boxes and
so that the lid of the upper box may be raised. The lower box is simply
soldered to the back piece. Three folded strips of tin are soldered to
the front of this second box to form a holder for a strip of sand paper
to strike the matches on.
CHAPTER XXI
PREPARING THE TOYS FOR PAINTING
REMOVING SURPLUS SOLDER WITH SCRAPERS—MAKING A HOE
SCRAPER—PLUMBERS’ AND ROOFERS’ SCRAPERS—SCRAPING AND
FILING—BOILING THE TOYS IN A LYE BATH—VENT HOLES
It frequently happens that more solder is applied to the joints than is
needed to cement the work together or that the solder is left in a rather
rough or lumpy state due to the inexperience of the worker.
The beginner should be in no wise discouraged if this is so, for there
is a certain knack in soldering neatly and this is only acquired by
experience and by closely observing the simple rules governing the
operation.
The beginner should be sure that enough solder is applied to hold the
work firmly together. The surplus solder may be scraped away by using a
simple scraper shaped like a hoe. An old knife is also useful for cutting
away lumps of solder. An old file or rasp which has very coarse teeth may
be used to file away solder. A finely cut file should never be used to
file solder as the fine teeth will clog up with solder and the file be
rendered useless for any further work.
=Making a Hoe Scraper.=—A hoe scraper may be made from a cheap screw
driver, such as those obtainable from the 5-and-10 cent stores. The end
of the screw driver that is applied to the screw is heated red hot (a
dull red). It is then placed quickly between the jaws of a vise so that
the jaws grasp it about ½ inch from the end and before the steel has time
to cool, it is bent over like a hoe, see Fig. 97.
Use a flat fine-toothed file to file the cutting edges to about the angle
shown in the enlarged drawing of the working end of the hoe scraper.
When the tool is filed into shape, heat the end again to a dull red and
plunge it quickly in a pail of water several times until it is entirely
cold. The tool is then ready for use.
The hoe scraper is a very simple tool to use. The cutting edge is simply
dragged with slight pressure over the solder to be removed, and will
remove a little solder each time it is dragged over it. This tool may be
sharpened easily with a smooth file or on a grindstone when it becomes
dull.
Do not try to remove too much solder at once and do not take away too
much solder from the joint as you will weaken it. Simply smooth up the
solder so that it will look well when painted over.
=Plumbers’ and Roofers’ Scrapers.=—Two very handy scrapers may be
purchased from a dealer in tinners’ tools. One of them is called a
Plumbers’ Scraper and is shown in Fig. 97. The other is called a Roofing
Scraper and is shown in Fig. 97. Either of these tools will prove very
useful for removing solder.
[Illustration: FIG. 97.]
=Boiling the Toys in a Lye Bath.=—When the toys are completely assembled
and before they are painted they should be thoroughly boiled up in a lye
bath to remove all grease, soldering paste or acid, paper or painted
labels, etc.
The lye bath is made by adding two heaping tablespoonfuls of lye or
washing soda to the gallon of boiling water. Lye or washing soda may be
purchased at any grocery store.
The lye solution should be mixed up in an old wash boiler or a large can
or pail, placed over a hot fire and kept boiling gently during such time
as the toys are immersed in the lye bath. Enough lye solution should
be made up so that at least half of the article to be cleaned will be
covered with it. The toy is left in the bath until that part of it which
is covered with the solution is clean. It is then removed from the bath,
rinsed, and then that part of the toy that remains to be cleaned is
placed in the solution. The whole toy should be thoroughly rinsed with
warm water when it is finally removed from the lye bath. Make sure that
it is thoroughly dry and also that any water or lye solution that may
have gotten inside any partially sealed-up parts of the toy is removed
before attempting to paint it.
Take care not to place the hands in the lye solution, hot or cold, as
it is very injurious to the skin. Any lye solution accidently spilled
on cloth will eat holes in it unless washed out with plenty of water
immediately. The work should be handled with wire hooks when lifting it
out of the lye bath.
A fresh lye bath should be made up occasionally as it loses its cleansing
power in proportion to the work boiled up in it. Lye may be added to a
bath already made up if this bath has not accumulated too much dirt.
[Illustration: FIG. 98.]
=Vent Holes.=—If a can is used to represent a boiler or is made up into a
drum-like structure, such as a wheel, and is not soldered up air tight,
it is apt to fill up with the hot lye solution when placed in it. Unless
there are two air holes or vents provided in such a boiler or wheel,
the lye or water will not all run out when it is removed from the bath,
but it will ooze out from time to time perhaps after the toy has been
painted for some time. The lye thus liberated will ruin all paint with
which it comes in contact.
At least two vent holes should be punched or bored in all drum-like
structures employed about the toys, one hole at the top to admit air and
another hole at the bottom to allow the water or lye solution to escape.
These vent holes are particularly necessary in wheels that are made from
cans, see Fig. 98.
CHAPTER XXII
NOTES ON PAINTING THE TOYS
The tin toys should be painted with a good grade of enamel paint. Enamel
paints have varnish mixed with them and dry hard and glossy and form a
very durable and attractive finish for the toys.
There are several popular brands of these enamel paints on the market and
almost any of them will give good results if properly applied.
Several colors should be purchased to start with, black, white, cherry
red, chrome yellow, prussian or royal blue. With this assortment of
colors, it is possible to get a variety of shades by mixing. A can of
vermilion and a can of khaki-colored enamel paint, as well as small cans
of gold and silver and bronze paint, will prove very handy additions to
the above collection of colors. The vermilion, gold and silver paints are
used to paint certain details of the toys that need to be emphasized.
Be sure to keep all the cans of paint tightly covered when not in use, so
that the paint will not dry up and become thick and gummy from contact
with the air.
Several paint brushes should be purchased at the paint dealers, the
largest brush should be of soft hair about ½ inch wide, and the smallest
brush a tiny pointed one for detail and line work. Always keep these
brushes covered with turpentine after using them or wash them out
immediately after by scrubbing them on a cake of soap with plenty of warm
water.
Cut several small cans down to tray size and use them for mixing the
paint.
Always stir up a can of paint before using it. Use a small stick for
stirring and keep at it until the paint is thoroughly mixed. Enamel
paints may be thinned with turpentine and a bottle of this should be kept
on hand.
Do not use your paint too thick. It should be of such a consistency as to
drip slowly from the brush before the brush is wiped against the side of
the can to remove the surplus paint upon commencing the work.
Be sure to mix up enough paint to cover the entire surface to be painted
if using mixed colors, as it is very difficult to mix a second batch of
the same shade of color.
Think how you are going to apply your paint before starting. Try to plan
your painting so that you will not have to work over a painted surface
a second time until that surface is thoroughly dry. The paint should be
applied smoothly with a brush. Just enough paint should be held in the
brush so that it flows onto the tin without streaks of the tin showing
through the paint.
Generally speaking, you should start at the top of a piece of work and
paint down. Each fresh brush stroke should overlap the one above it and
mop up any surplus paint of the former brush strokes.
Paint the intricate parts first and then the plain surfaces. For
instance, when painting the aeroplane weathervane, use a small brush
and paint the struts first, then paint around the bases and tops of the
struts on the surface of the planes. Change the small brush for a larger
one and flow more paint over the surface of the planes, gathering up the
paint around the ends of the struts as you paint along.
When painting a large model, such as an army truck, and not being quite
sure of the quantity of paint needed, mix up enough paint to paint all
the parts of the model that show the most and leave such parts as the
bottom of the frame and the inside of the body until last. If you have to
mix up more paint for these last parts it will not matter if it is not
exactly the same shade.
If you have not had very much experience in mixing and combining colors,
it is generally better to use the different tints just as they come from
the cans, without trying to mix them.
Do not use too many colors on one toy, but try to get a pleasing effect
with two or three colors that look well together. For instance, a truck
may be painted an olive green or khaki color over its entire surface,
excepting the front of the radiator which should be painted with silver
paint.
When the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry, lines of black may be
painted about the body and various edges emphasized with black. The hubs
of the wheels, the lamps, the rim of the steering wheel, and the filler
cap on the radiator may all be painted black with good effect. The part
of the wheels which is supposed to represent the tires should be painted
a dark gray. (Gray may be made by mixing black and white together.)
Study the large trucks seen about the streets for inspiration. These
large trucks are nearly always very simply and attractively painted.
Real locomotives are painted black at present, but a small toy locomotive
looks much better if the wheels are painted red (vermilion). A red band
may be painted about the top of the smokestack and the tin strips framing
the cab windows should be painted red, as may the number of the engine,
etc.
The whistle should be painted with gold paint and also the inside of the
headlight, and broad lines may be painted about the boiler with gold to
represent the straps seen about locomotive boilers.
Paint the tires of the engine wheels with silver paint. The driving rods
may be painted either black or silver.
A toy locomotive thus painted will prove far more attractive to a child
than if it is painted a plain black like a real locomotive.
Generally speaking, the toys should be painted one dominating color of an
attractive tint and relieved or brightened with lines and certain details
painted with a bright or contrasting color.
Always allow one coat of paint to dry thoroughly before painting on it
again.
Tin toys may be baked in an oven when they are freshly painted. The
baking dries the enamel paint very quickly and tends to make the paint
dry very hard and smooth. The baking oven of a coal or gas range will do
very well for the baking, but be very sure that the oven is not too hot,
as a hot oven will cause the solder to melt and the toys to fall apart.
It is better to leave the oven door opened slightly when baking the
painted toys over a slow fire.
It is not necessary to bake the toys after painting as they may be simply
left to dry in the air.
Always paint slowly and carefully. Toys that are attractively painted to
match good construction are much more satisfactory than a well-made toy
poorly painted.
INDEX
A
Aeroplane weathervane, 187-191
Ambulance body, 154, 155
Anvils, 40, 41
Appliances, shop, 39-43
Ash trays, 86-93
Assembling auto truck, 139-145
Auto truck, making, 107-145
army, 153-155
axles, 114
bodies, 146-156
cabs, 165
chassis, 118-126
coal truck, 152, 153
dash board, 135-138
drilling holes in wheel centers, 113, 114
fire engine, 155, 156
fittings, 161-165
hood, 127-134
horns, 163
lights, 161-163
mud guards, 160
radiator, 125-134
soldering filler cap on radiator, 132-134
soldering seat, 138
soldering wheels to axles, 141-143
starting crank, 157, 158
steering wheel, 159
street sprinkler, 151-153
tank truck, 151
tool boxes, 163, 164
vents or louvers in hood, 130-132
washers for axles, 143-145
Auto truck wheel centers, finding, 37, 38
wheel making, 107-118
wheel, making hole in center, 112-114
B
Bench, work, 41, 42
Bending strips of tin to design, 81-83
wire in vise, 157
Biscuit cutter, 44-53
Block, punching and forming, 50
Bodies, ambulance, 154, 155
auto truck, 146-156
coal, 152
different bodies fitted to same chassis, 149-156
fire engine, 155, 156
street sprinkler, 151, 152
tank, 151
Boats, 166-175
battleship, 171, 172
ferry, 172, 173
row, 166, 167
sail, 167, 168
scow, 167
tug, 169-171
Burns, remedy for, 26
C
Cabs, truck, 165
Cabs, locomotive, 176, 177
Camp equipment, 195-199
canteen, 196
coffee pot, 195
cooking pails, 196
frying pan, 196
hot water bottle, 196
Camp equipment, match box, 199
shower bath, 196-199
toaster, 196
Candlesticks, 94-99, 192, 193
Cars, railroad, 178-181
Charcoal and wood fires for heating soldering coppers, 59, 60
Chassis, forming truck, 118-126
Cleaning and scraping tin for soldering, 71-73
cans, 21-25
Connecting rods for locomotive, 177, 178
Cooky cutters, 79-85
Cuts, remedy for, 26
Cutting away surplus tin at can rims, 101, 102
holes in tin with chisel, 96, 97
into cans, 22-24
narrow strips of tin, 80, 81
Cylinders, locomotive, 177, 178
D
Dash boards, truck, 135-138
Dividers, spring, 33
Double cutting shears, 24
Drilling hole in wheel centers, 113, 114
E
Electrical soldering coppers, 60, 67, 68
F
Filing tin, 45, 46
the soldering copper, 63-65
Fire engine, 155, 156
Fittings for truck, 161-165
Flux, applying, 74
Fluxes for soldering, 55, 62-70
Folding tin by hand, 50, 51
hatchet stake, 123-125
vise, 123
wooden roofing folder, 120-123
Forming chassis for truck, 118-126
mallet, 42, 43
using, 87-91
Forming a wire handle, 105, 106
Frying pan, 196
G
Galvanized wire, sizes, 30
used for axles, 114
Gas furnace for heating soldering coppers, 58, 59
Gasoline torch for heating soldering coppers, 58, 59
H
Handle, forming for biscuit cutter, 49-53
Hatchet stake used for folding, 123-125
Heating apparatus for soldering coppers, 55-60
soldering coppers, 65-68
Hood, truck, 127-134
Horns, truck, 163
Hot water bottle, 196
I
Ice pick used as punch, 112, 113
K
“Killed” or soldering acid, making, 68-70
L
Laying out work, 32-39
Lantern, 192, 193
Lights, truck, 161, 162
Locomotive, 174-179
boiler, 176
cab, 176
connecting rods, 177, 178
cylinders, 177, 178
fittings, 178
frame, 174-177
Locomotive wheels, 177
Lugs for pail handle, 102-105
Lye bath, description, 20
used for cleaning cans, 72, 73
M
Marking awl, 32
off work, 32, 33
line around a can, 22
Match box, 199
holder and ash tray, 91-93
Materials needed aside from cans, 30
Mechanical toys, 182-191
aeroplane weathervane, 187-191
sandmills, 182
steam turbine and boiler, 182, 183
water wheels, 182
windmill, 187
Melting off can lids, 110, 111
Metal shears, 25
Mud guards for truck, 160
N
Notes on painting the toys, 206-210
O
Oil stove used for heating soldering coppers, 56-61
P
Painting tin can toys, 206-210
Paints used for tin can toys, 206
Points to remember about soldering, 75-77
Preparing cans for toy making, 20-22
toys for painting, 200-205
Punches, 47-49
Punching a hole in tin, 46-49
Punching holes with ice pick, 112, 113
holes in radiator, 129
R
Radiator, truck, 127-134
Riveting, 100, 103-105
Rivets, 30
Running boards, truck, 160, 161
S
Sandmills, 182
Sconces, wall, 192
Scrapers, 201, 202
home-made, 201
plumbers’ and roofers’, 201, 202
Scraping away surplus solder, 200-202
Seat, truck, 138
Sheet tin, 54
Shower bath, 196-199
Smokestack for locomotive, 178
Soft solder, 54
other methods of applying, 78
Soldering, 54-70
candlestick, 99
cleaning and scraping for, 71-73
cooky cutter, 83-85
filler cap on radiator, 132-134
heating apparatus for, 55-60
hood and radiator to truck chassis, 139
“Killed Acid,” making, 68-70
narrow strips of tin, 81-83
paste, 62, 63
other methods of applying, 78
points to remember about, 75-77
practice piece, 73-78
process, 55
Soldering, scraping away surplus solder, 200-202
soft solder, 54
strips of tin to flat piece 83
wheels to axles, 141-143
copper or “iron,” 60-62
cleaning with “killed acid,” 63-67
electrical, 60, 67, 68
filing, 63-65
fitting handle to, 62
heating, 65-68
tinning, 63-68
Springs, truck, 140, 141
Squaring up a piece of tin, 34, 35
Starting crank, 157, 158
Steam turbine, 182, 183
Steering wheel and column, 159
Street sprinkler, 151-153
Strip washers for axles, 143-145
Strips of tin, cutting, 36, 37, 80, 81
Supplementary tool list, 31, 32
Sugar scoop, 53
Surface gauge, using, 38, 39
T
Tank truck, 151
Tin cans used for toys, 19, 20
sheet, 54
strips, cutting, 36, 37, 80, 81
Tinning soldering copper, 61-68
Toaster, 196
Tool boxes for truck, 163, 164
lists and costs, 29-32
Tools, 28-32
Try square, 33, 34
Turbine, steam, 182, 183
Turning edges on round trays, 86-91
V
Vent holes for draining, 204, 205
Vents or Louvers, cutting in hood, 130-132
Vise, description, 39, 40
used for bending wire, 157
used for folding, 132
W
Washers, strip, for axles, 143-145
Water wheels, 182
Wheels, making, 107-118
axles for, 114
centers, finding, 37, 38
drilling holes in center, 113, 114
from tin cans with rolled-rim ends, 117, 118
from tin cans with soldered ends, 108-114
ice pick used for making holes in centers, 112, 113
locomotive, 177
sand, 182
soldering to axles, 141-143
water, 182
windmill, 187
Wire, galvanized, sizes, 30
used for wheel axles, 114
Wood chisel used for cutting tin, 131-132