CHRISTIANIA
And now to all the brave ones here,
And to the maids that love us--
To men who never knew a fear,
Maids pure as saints above us.
The Norway maidens! fill on high--
The Norsemen, brave to do and die!
And shame to him who passes by
The pledge to Love and Freedom.
_For Norge_, translated by LADY WILDE.
Cleaving the Skager Rak from the Cattegat the small peninsula of
Jutland projects far into the large gulf by which the Scandinavian
mountain mass is riven on the south. And at the head of the gulf a
lovely island-dotted fjord penetrates far among the hills that encircle
the long and narrow Norway Lakes.
The shores of the fjord are rocky, in places eaten into cliffs, pines
cover all the slopes from which they are not cleared. Just here and
there distant mountains of more jagged outline overtop the lower hills.
For some miles the seaway is narrow, but it broadens out again before
the end is reached. Less wild and rugged, less grand and awesome, than
the high-walled fjords that cut into the western coast, but not less
beautiful in some respects.
By many coves the sea runs in among the woods, and during saga days
here lived sea-kings who never slept under sooty roof-tree, nor ever
drank in hearth ingle. Into one of the arms of the branching fjord,
the water then called Drafn and now known as Drammensfjord, hove Olaf
the Thick, the Holy, with his host in 1028, for he had heard that Knut
the Rich, England's all-wielder, was close upon his heels. Knut was
planning a great Norse Empire; he had made himself master of Norway,
and held Things in every folk-land that he reached. Olaf could not meet
him in warfare, but he held him in Drafn water in safety till he heard
that Knut was gone south into Denmark, and then he fared forth, only to
find that for the time at least the land was beguiled from under him.
A few miles from the arm of the sea that had sheltered St. Olaf another
saint was born, related to himself, Hallward, a worthy merchant of
those parts, who got his bane while trying to protect a woman who was
being attacked by men. Him Harald Hardredy, the same who met his end
at Stamford Bridge in 1066, chose to be the patron saint of the new
southern town which he founded to rival the capital far north.
In the _Heimskringla_ we read how "King Harald let rear a
cheaping-stead east in Oslo, and sat there often; whereas it was good
there for the ingathering of victual, with wide countrysides all round
about. There he sat well for the warding of the land against the Danes
no less than for onsets at Denmark, which he was often wont to, though
he might have no great host out."[40]
After his death we learn that "it was the talk of all men that King
Harald had been beyond other men in wisdom and deft rede, no matter
whether he should take swiftly, or do longsome, a rede for himself or
others.... King Harald was a goodly man, and noble to behold; bleak
haired and bleak bearded, his lipbeard long; one eyebrow somewhat
higher than the other; large hands and feet, yet either shapely waxen;
five ells was the tale of his stature. To his unfriends was he grim and
vengeful for aught done against him."[41]
To this appreciation we may add that Harald was no bad judge of the
best site for a town; for with the rocky forest-covered hills rising
all round, and the lake-like sea with its many islands gently rippling
in front, this capital has one of the best situations enjoyed by any
European town. Nothing but huge advantages of site and greater nearness
to the communications of the world could have reconciled Norway to
her Government's abandoning the myriad associations of the far more
historic city in the North.
During the reign of Sigurd Jerusalem-farer (1121-1130) to Oslo came
from Ireland one Harald Gilli, who said he was a Norse king's son,
but he did not claim the kingdom for himself. And Sigurd said that
Harald should tread bars for his fatherhood, and that ordeal was deemed
somewhat hard, but still Harald yeasaid it.
"He fasted unto iron, and that ordeal was done, which is the greatest
that ever has been done in Norway, whereas nine glowing ploughshares
were laid down, and Harald walked them barefoot, and was led by two
bishops. Three days thereafter the ordeal was proven, and his feet were
unburnt.
"After that King Sigurd took kindly to the kinship of Harald, but
Magnus his son had much ill-will to him, and many lords turned after
him in the matter. King Sigurd trusted so much in his friendship with
all the folk of the land, that he bade this, that all should swear that
his son Magnus should be king after him; and he gat that oath sworn by
all the land's-folk.
"Harald Gilli was a tall man and slender of build, long-necked,
somewhat long-faced, black-eyed, dark of hair, quick and swift of gait,
and much wore the Irish raiment, being short-clad and light-clad. The
northern tongue was stiff for him, and he fumbled much over the words,
and many men had that for mockery. Harald sat on a time at the drink
with another man, and told tales from the west of Ireland; and this
was in his speech that in Ireland there were men so swift-foot that
no horse might catch them up at a gallop. Magnus, the king's son,
overheard that and said: 'Now is he lying again, as is his wont.'
"Harald answers: 'True is this, that,' says he, 'those men may be found
in Ireland whom no horse in Norway shall outrun.'
"On this they had some words and both were drunk. Then said Magnus:
'Now here shalt thou wager thine head, if thou run not as hard as I
ride my horse, but I will lay down against it my gold ring.'
"Harald answers: 'I say not that I run so hard, but I shall find those
men in Ireland who so will run, and on that may I wager.'
"Magnus, the king's son, answers: 'I shall not be faring to Ireland,
here shall we have the wager, and not there.'
"Harald then went to bed and would have nought more to do with him.
This was in Oslo.
"But the next morning when matins were over, Magnus rode up unto the
highway and sent word to Harald to come thither; and when he came he
was so dight that he had on a shirt and breeches with footsole bands, a
short cloak, an Irish hat on his head, and a spear-shaft in hand.
"Now Magnus marked out the run. Harald says: 'Overlong art thou minded
to have the run.' Magnus forthwith marked it off much longer and said
that even so it was over-short.
"There were many folk thereby. Then took they to the running, and
Harald ever kept at the withers.
"But when they came to the end of the run, said Magnus: 'Thou holdest
by the girth, and the horse drew thee.' Magnus had a Gautland horse
full swift. They took again another run back, and then Harald ran all
the course before the horse. And when they came to the end of the run,
Harald asked: 'Held I by the girth now?' Magnus answers: 'Thou didst
take off first.'
[Illustration: GAMLA UPSALA
Details of Runic Stone and Plan of old Cathedral] [_Face page 99_
"Then Magnus let the horse breathe a while; and when he was ready, he
smote the horse with his spurs, and he came swiftly to the gallop. Then
Harald stood still, and Magnus looked back and called: 'Run now,' says
he. Then Harald swiftly overran the horse, and far ahead, and so to the
run's end; and came home so much the first, that he laid him down, and
sprang up and hailed Magnus when he came."[42]
Oslo stood on the Akers Elv, and was chiefly on its eastern bank;
Oslo-havn still exists, by the mouth of the stream just eastward of the
railway-circled cape on which frowns the castle Akershus. Less than a
mile to the north, not far from the river's western shore, stands a
small twelfth century Romanesque structure that belonged to a suburb of
Oslo and is prosaically known to-day as Gamle Akers Kirke.[43]
Oslo was a great city, one of the chief centres of Norwegian trade,
and a bishop's stool stood in the church where Hallward's bones were
shrined. It also played an important part in history when the great
king, Hakon IV., of the Birch legs party (p. 85), overcame his domestic
enemies there at a great battle during 1240. He thus restored peace
to Norway, torn by the factions of a hundred years, and so widely did
his fame extend that St. Louis asked for his help against Saracens and
the pope for assistance against the emperor himself. But, feeling
more interest in matters nearer home, Hakon preferred to direct his
attention to joining Iceland to Norway (p. 54).
Old Oslo was, however, much damaged by fire and wasted by war when
about 1624 the illustrious Dane-Norway king, Christian IV., rebuilt the
city on a slightly more western site and called it by his own name. In
addition to his other accomplishments, which, as we shall see (p. 132)
were very great, this Christian was a brave soldier, and the song of
Ewald (d. 1781), "King Christian stood by the lofty mast" has become
a National Anthem of the Danes. He fully realised the great advantage
of having the Capital of Norway as near Copenhagen as he could.
Christiania was but a few days' sail, Trondhjem was almost in another
world.
Of the new city's early days there still survive memorials in the
present rather picturesque seventeenth century buildings of the
peninsular castle of Akershus, in the old brick Raadhus with its
archway and arcaded gables, and also in the Stor Torv, or great
market-place, with its untented stalls round the statue of the Founder
of the Town under the high spired clock tower of Vor Frelsers Kirke,
which is dated 1696.
The general character of present-day Christiania was, however, given to
it during the early years of the nineteenth century when the city was
largely extended toward the west. Happily the early Gothic revival had
not reached Norway then, and the chief buildings are Classic, a style
that is vastly to be preferred to any other for buildings that are not
really among the best of their kind.
A decent, rather uninspiring town. Broad streets with trolley-trams.
Straight streets with shrubs and trees. Houses of brick or cement.
Numerous little open spaces are, without much imagination, devoted
to the cultivation of such vegetables as grass, elm, birch, willow,
lilac and poplar. Like Capetown, which in position it somewhat
resembles, Christiania depends for its beauty entirely on mountainous
surroundings, for there is little that is striking in the streets.
It is remarkable that in the capital of a country so extremely
democratic, that has swept its nobility into the mass of the commons,
by far the most conspicuous building should be the Palace of the King,
and that in the chief town of a land of such strong national feeling,
the main street should bear the name of one who gained the crown of
Norway only at the point of the sword.
Few classic structures in the world are more magnificently placed
than the palace: it stands high up, wide gardens stretch around, and
through them the great portico looks down along the broad, straight,
well-gardened, chief street of the town, called after Karl Johan.
Neither the architecture of the building nor the laying out of the
gardens is at all worthy of the superb position, but the effect
nevertheless is most striking. Were the Palace of Stockholm (p. 203)
placed here and the park laid out on the same lines as the gardens of
Versailles, the great central thoroughfare of the city being made a
wide boulevard to match, there might have risen on this spot one of the
most monumental and stately of all European cities. Unfortunately the
Palace was only erected in 1825-48--when architecture was at its lowest
ebb in every part of the western world--and neither material nor design
is good. Karl Johans Gade, at whose other end is the Hoved Banegaard,
or chief railway station, has gardens for a section of its length, but
for the most part it is unfortunately bordered by houses of brick and
stucco that rise straight from the pavements. Nevertheless the grandeur
of the encircling mountains obliterates all minor defects. In front of
the Palace, looking along the great street that bears his name, is a
statue to Karl Johan, better known to the world perhaps as Bernadotte,
Napoleon's marshal, who forgot his own country and his father's house,
to champion the liberties of the North, Scandinavian in all but speech.
Where end the gardens by the street of Karl Johan rises the
Storthings-Bygning, or the seat of a parliament, some of whose members
reside within the Arctic Line.
Across the same noble thoroughfare, nearer the Palace, stand face to
face the University, famed for many a distinguished name and also for
the possession of viking ships, and the National Theatre, renowned for
its connection with the great name of the dramatist whose appearance
was tersely summed up by Björnson:--
Tense and lean, the colour of gypsum,
Behind a vast coal-black beard, Henrik Ibsen.
to whom a statue rises in the grounds. His charming play the _Dolls
House_ (1879) was one of the first of his works to gain a reputation
through the world, while it started, or stirred, about woman and her
place a discussion whose end is not in sight, and also did very much to
naturalise all modern drama by abolishing such devices as soliloquies,
and attempting to set upon the stage what really happens in the
world.[44]
Well worth attention would be those very boats that first explored
the wild fjords of the storied North, that pushed their unwelcome
dragon-prows into every bay and broad river of Europe from end to end,
that caused even the great Charles to weep, that added a petition to
the Litany of the Church, that formed the navies on whose power were
built kingdoms in Sicily and Russia, in Normandy and amidst the British
Isles, that centuries before the days of Columbus sailed through
ice-laden seas to the well-favoured American shore. Here they are!
Put together with skill and preserved with care, they stand in sheds
that form part of the University Museum. That ships will be required
beyond the grave to sail on undiscovered seas is the simple opinion of
many unsophisticated branches of mankind. The Chinese send vessels to
the illustrious dead by burning them on earth. Probably with the same
idea the ancient Norse buried them in their barrows or howes. The ship
on which a viking had sailed in life became his coffin after death.
Thus simply does the _Heimskringla_ in the _Story of Hakon the Good_
describe such burials. "So King Hakon let take all the ships of Eric's
sons which had been beached, and let draw them up aland. There King
Hakon let lay Egil Woolsark in a ship, and all those of his folk with
him who were fallen, and let heap over them stones and earth. Then King
Hakon let set up yet more ships, and bear them to the field of battle;
and one may see the mounds to-day."[45]
Such a king's howe was heaped up long ago at Gogstad on Sandefjord,
where to-day is a prosperous little watering-place, hard by the
mouth of the seaway by which Christiania is gained. Here in 1880 a
well-preserved viking ship was brought to light and in due course
it was reverently deposited in the Museum of the University at the
Capital. Its lines are graceful and it is of very shallow draught. The
size is quite considerable, just seventy-eight feet from end to end.
It is framed with a heavy keel and rather light ribs; the planks are
extremely neatly cut and carefully riveted together with iron nails
and square washers. It must have possessed some suppleness, which was
probably an advantage in a stormy sea. The two ends are very much
alike, but by the stern is a steering-board, like a great oar, fixed
loosely on the side that we still know as the starboard.
Through the third plank from the top are pierced rowlocks and along the
gunwale are ranged the big-bossed shields by which the Northmen sought
to ward off blows. They are round, not large, and painted yellow and
black.
Compared with those of Chinese junks or Arab dhows, the lines of the
viking vessel are strikingly modern in character: this is much less
surprising than it otherwise would be when it is recollected that the
Bronze Age sculptures on the Scandinavian rocks prove that boats of
considerable dimensions had been used by the ancestors of the builders
for something like a thousand years.
The dragon prow is no longer to be seen. Such features were clearly
detachable, for among the primitive laws and customs of Iceland it is
written: "This was the beginning of the heathen laws, that men must not
keep a ship at sea with a figure-head on; but if they have, then they
must take off the head before they come in sight of land, and not sail
to land with gaping heads and yawning jaws to frighten the spirits or
wights of the country."[46] Thoughtful precaution!
Near the centre of the boat are remains of the pine mast that rose from
a mortice in a log whose either end is fashioned after the pattern of
a fish's tail. The square sail, perhaps of painted wool, was hoisted
or lowered by a pulley. Aft of the mast in the centre is a log-built
house, whose timbers, both at the ends and those that on the sides lean
together to form the roof, fit into grooved beams, reminding one of the
construction of the stavekirkes. This deckhouse in all probability was
constructed to form the tomb.
A well-found boat, suited to the navigation of the fjords! But what
courage must have been required of those who sailed across the
stormiest of oceans in so frail a craft! Within the howe, but not
within the boat, twelve horses, six dogs and one peacock were buried
with their lord.[47]
The sun sets on the harbour over Bygdö, almost an island, yet not
quite. The famous Oscarshall is on its eastern shore. In the deep shade
of the woods there has been formed such an open air museum as all Norse
love, and hither have been collected ancient wooden buildings from
country villages and from isolated farms that give a good idea of some
aspects of the Norway of bygone years.
One of the buildings is of the kind called a _stabbur_, a common
adjunct to a prosperous farm. It formed a storehouse, which could
likewise be used for extra sleeping-rooms whenever there was need. In
the upper chamber, reached by a ladder, were preserved the initialled
chests in which each member of the family preserved his valuables, or
hers--clothes to a large extent. Thus each daughter had her trousseau
packed, ready for removal to her husband's home. In this room, too,
were kept blankets and tablecloths and things we store in linen closets
now.
The room below, which is narrower, for the upper one projects to right
and left, was used for such things as grain bins and stores of food,
bacon or mutton or flour.[48] (For drawing see chapter-heading.)
The stavekirke was moved from Gol, a small village in Hallingdal
passed by the railway to Bergen.[49] It is an excellent example of a
mysterious form of Christian architecture that is confined to Norway,
nothing like it existing in any other part of Europe.
In a modern building surrounding a court is a small but very
interesting folk museum, divided into domestic, commercial and
ecclesiastical; it is dated 1898. A reredos carved in very high relief,
which displays Christ at the Last Supper gesticulating and delivering
an impassioned address to the Disciples, is at any rate unconventional
in treatment. Most of the domestic furniture, such things as beds,
chests, chairs and even jugs, is carved in soft wood. Many pieces are
dated, usually in the eighteenth century, but the collection begins
about the year 1500.
[Illustration: GREENSTED CHURCH] [_Face page 108_
So close against the hills the city stands that a short electric
railway lifts one in a few minutes from the streets to the heart of the
spruce woods that cover the rock sides of Hollmenkollen. Among granite
boulders and such wild flowers as Scotland knows, under the close shade
of the pines--the woods untouched, save here and there, as if miles
from a dwelling of man--one looks down on the streets of a city that
lies among the mountains and yet borders upon the rippling sea. Still
closer to the streets of Stockholm the forests come, but there the
hills stand back. In being both girdled by mountains and splashed by
the sea Christiania is almost alone among the capitals of the world.
Norway is almost always seen by visitors under summer skies, unless
it chances that they come for winter sports; it is well somewhat to
correct the impressions received by recalling Björnson's holding
description of his own country: "There is something in Nature here
which challenges whatever is extraordinary in us. Nature herself
here goes beyond all ordinary measure. We have night nearly all the
winter; we have day nearly all the summer, with the sun by day and by
night above the horizon. You have seen it at night half-veiled by the
mists from the sea; it often looks three, even four times larger than
usual. And then the play of colours on sky, sea and rock, from the
most glowing red to the softest and most delicate yellow and white.
And then the colours of the Northern Lights on the winter sky, with
their more suppressed kind of wild pictures, yet full of unrest and
for ever changing. Then the other wonders of Nature! These millions of
sea-birds, and the wandering processions of fish, stretching for miles!
These perpendicular cliffs that rise directly out of the sea! They are
not like other mountains, and the Atlantic roars round their feet. And
the ideas of the people are correspondingly unmeasured. Listen to their
legends and stories."