PACKING HORSES
IF one is going on a real camping excursion where one will need pack
horses, one should, by all means, familiarize oneself with the proper
method of packing a pack horse. This can be done in one's own cellar,
attic or woodshed and without hiring a horse or keeping one for the
purpose. The horse will be expensive enough when one needs it on the
trail.
The drill in packing a horse should be taught in all scout camps, and
all girl camps and all Y.M.C.A. camps, and all training camps; in
fact, everywhere where anybody goes outdoors at all, or where anybody
pretends to go outdoors; and after the tenderfeet have learned how to
pack then it is the proper time to learn what to pack; consequently we
put packing before outfitting, not the cart, but the pack before the
horse, so to speak.
When the Boy Scout Movement started in America it had the good
aggressive American motto, "BE SURE YOU'RE RIGHT, THEN GO AHEAD," which
was borrowed from that delightful old buckskin man, Davy Crockett.
A few years later, when the scout idea was taken up in England, the
English changed the American motto to "BE PREPARED;" because the
English Boy Scout promoter was a military man himself and saw the
necessity of preparedness by Great Britain, which has since become
apparent to us all.
And in order to be prepared to pack a horse, we must first be sure we
are right, then "go ahead" and practice packing at home.
One of the most useful things to the outdoor person is a
PACK HORSE
All of us do not own a horse, but there is not a reader of this book so
poor that he cannot own the horse shown by Fig. 174.
[Illustration: 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174]
There are but few people in the United States who cannot honestly
come into possession of a barrel with which to build a pack horse or
on which to practice throwing the diamond hitch. They can also find,
somewhere, some pieces of board with which to make the legs of the
horse, its neck and head.
Fig. 168 shows the neck-board, and the dotted lines show where to saw
the head to get the right angle for the head and ears, with which
the horse may hear. Fig. 169 shows the head-board, and the dotted
line shows how to saw off one corner to give the proper shape to this
Arabian steed's intelligent head-piece.
Fig. 170 shows how to nail the head on the neck. The nails may be
procured by knocking them out of old boards; at least that is the way
the writer supplied himself with nails. He does not remember ever
asking his parents for money with which to buy nails, but if it is
different nowadays, and if you do not feel economically inclined,
and have the money, go to the shop and buy them. Also, under such
circumstances, go to the lumber yard and purchase your boards.
Fig. 171 shows how to nail two cleats on the neck, and Fig. 172 shows
how to nail these cleats onto the head of the barrel. If you find the
barrel head so tough and elastic that a nail cannot be easily hammered
in, use a gimlet and bore holes into the cleats and into the barrel
head, and then fasten the cleats on with screws.
The tail of the nag is made out of an old piece of frayed rope (Fig.
173), with a knot tied in one end to prevent the tail from pulling
out when it is pulled through a hole in the other end of the barrel
(Fig. 173). The legs of the horse are made like those of a carpenter's
wooden horse, of bits of plank or boards braced under the barrel by
cross-pieces (Fig. 174).
Now you have a splendid horse! "One that will stand without hitching."
It is kind and warranted not to buck, bite or kick, but nevertheless,
when you are packing him remember that you are doing it in order to
drill yourself to pack a real live horse, a horse that may really buck,
bite and kick.
There are a lot of words in the English language not to be found in
the dictionary. I remember a few years ago when one could not find
"undershirt" or "catboat" in the dictionary. But in the dictionaries of
to-day you will even find "aparejo" and "latigo," although neither of
these words was in the dictionaries of yesterday.
MAKE YOUR OWN APAREJO
Make your own aparejo of anything you can find. The real ones are made
of leather, but at the present time, 1920, leather is very expensive.
We can, however, no doubt secure some builders' paper, tar paper, stiff
wrapping paper, a piece of old oilcloth, which, by the way, would be
more like leather than anything else, and cover these things with a
piece of tent cloth, a piece of carpet, or even burlap. The oilcloth
inside will stiffen the aparejo. At the bottom edge of it we can
lash a couple of sticks (Fig. 175), or if we want to do it in a real
workmanlike manner, we can sew on a couple of leather shoes, made out
of old shoe leather or new leather if we can secure it, and then slip
a nice hickory stick through the shoes, as shown in the diagram (Fig.
176).
The aparejo is to throw over the horse's back as in Fig. 178, but in
order to fasten it on the back we must have a latigo which is the real
wild and woolly name for the rope attached to a cincha strap (Fig.
177). But when you are talking about packing the pack horses call it
"cinch," and spell it "cincha." Make your cincha of a piece of canvas,
and in one end fasten a hook--a big strong picture hook will do; Fig.
177½ shows a cinch hook made of an oak elbow invented by Stewart Edward
White, and in the other end an iron ring; to the iron ring fasten the
lash rope (Fig. 177).
For the real horse and outfit one will need an aparejo, a pack
blanket, a lash rope with a cincha, a sling rope, a blind for the
horse, and a pack cover. But here again do not call it a pack cover,
for that will at once stamp you as a tenderfoot. Assume the superior
air of a real plainsman and speak of it as a "manta." The aparejo and
pack saddle are inventions of the Arabians away back in the eighth
century. When the Moors from Africa overran Spain, these picturesque
marauders brought with them pack mules, pack saddles, and aparejos.
When General Cortez and Pizarro carried the torch and sword through
Mexico in their search for gold, they brought with them pack animals,
pack saddles, aparejos, latigos, and all that sort of thing with which
to pack their loot.
When the forty-niners went to California in search of gold they found
that the Arabian Moorish-Spanish-Mexican method of packing animals was
perfectly adapted to their purposes and they used to pack animals, the
aparejos, the latigos, and all the other kinds of gos. The lash rope
for a real pack horse should be of the best Manila ½ inch or 5/8 inch,
and forty feet long; a much shorter one will answer for the wooden
horse.
EVEN BOYS CAN THROW THE HITCH
Back in 1879, Captain A. B. Wood, United States Army, introduced a
knowledge of the proper use of the pack saddle and the mysteries of the
diamond hitch into the United States Army. The Fourth Cavalry, United
States Army, was the first to become expert with the diamond hitch and
taught it to the others; but recently a military magazine has asked
permission, and has used the author's diagrams, to explain to the
Cavalry men how this famous hitch is thrown.
It stands to reason that in order to pack one horse one must have some
packs. But these are the easiest things imaginable to secure. A couple
of old potato or flour bags, stuffed with anything that is handy--hay,
grass, leaves, rags or paper--but stuffed tight (Fig. 179), will do for
our load.
[Illustration: 178, 179]
[Illustration: 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185]
When packing a horse, except with such hitches as the "one man hitch,"
it requires two men or boys to "throw" the hitch. The first one is
known as the head packer, and the other as the second packer. Remember
that the left-hand side of the horse is the nigh side. The head packer
stands on the nigh side of the horse and he takes the coiled lash rope
in the left hand and lets the coils fall astern of the pack animal
(Fig. 180); with the right hand he takes hold of the rope about three
or four feet from the cincha (Fig. 180) and hands the hook end under
the animal to the second packer, who stands on the right-hand side
of the horse (Fig. 180). The right hand of the head packer, with the
palm upwards, so holds the rope that the loop will fall across his
forearm; the left hand with the palm downward holds the rope about
half way between the loop that goes over the forearm and the loop that
lies along the back of the pack animal (Fig. 181). The head packer now
throws the loop from his forearm across the pack on the back of the
animal, allowing the left hand to fall naturally on the neck of the
animal. The second packer now runs the rope through the hook and pulls
up the cincha end until the hook is near the lower edge of the off side
of the aparejo (Fig. 183).
The head packer next grasps the rope A (Fig. 185) and tucks a loop from
the rear to the front under the part marked B (Figs. 185 and 186), over
the inner side pack (Figs. 184 and 187). Next the second packer passes
the loose end of the rope under the part marked D (Fig. 187), and
throws it on the nigh (left) side of the pack animals.
The head packer now draws the tucked loop forward and tucks it under
the corners and the lower edge of the nigh side of the aparejo (Fig.
188), then holds it taut from the rear corner, and the second packer
takes hold of the rope at E (Fig. 189) with his left hand, and at F
(Fig. 187) with his right hand. He passes the rope under the corners
and lower edge of the off side of the aparejo (G, H, Fig. 189, and G,
H, Fig. 191). The second packer now takes the blind off his pack animal
and is supposed to lead it forward a few steps while the head packer
examines the load from the rear to see if it is properly adjusted.
Then the blind is again put upon the animal for the final tightening of
the rope. While the second packer is pulling the parts taut, the head
packer takes up the slack and keeps the pack steady. The tightening
should be done in such a manner as not to shake the pack out of balance
or position, (Figs. 188 and 190).
The second (or off side) packer grasps the lash rope above the hook,
and puts his knee against the stern corner of the aparejo, left-hand
group (Fig. 188). The head packer takes hold with his right hand of the
same part of the rope where it comes from the pack on the inner side,
and with the left hand at J (Fig. 189), and his right shoulder against
the cargo to steady it, he gives the command "PULL!" Without jerks, but
with steady pulls, the second packer now tightens the rope, taking care
not to let it slip back through the hook. He gives the loose part to
the head packer, who takes up the slack by steady pulls.
[Illustration: 186, 187, 188, 189]
When the second packer is satisfied that it is all right he cries,
"Enough!" The head packer then holds steady with his right hand and
slips the other hand down to where the rope passes over the front edge
of the aparejo. There he holds steady; his right hand then takes hold
of the continuation of the rope at the back corner of the pad and pulls
tight. Placing his right knee against the rear corner of the pad he
pulls hard with both hands until the rope is well home, left-hand group
(Fig. 188).
The second packer now takes up the slack by grasping the rope with both
hands, E (Fig. 189).
The head packer steps to the front to steady the pack. The second
packer pulls taut the parts on his side, taking up the slack. This
draws the part of the lash rope K, K (Fig. 189), well back at middle
of the pack, giving the center hitch the diamond shape from which the
name is derived, X (Fig. 191). He then, with the left hand at the
rear corner H, pulls taut and holds solid, while with the right hand
in front of G, he takes up slack. Next with both hands at the front
corner and with his knee against it (Fig. 188), the second packer pulls
taut, the head packer at the same time taking up the slack on his side
and then pulls steady, drawing the part L, L (Fig. 189), of the rope
leading from the hook well forward at the middle of the pack, finishing
off the diamond at X. He then carries the loose end under the corners
and ends of the aparejo, and draws that taut and ties the end fast by a
half hitch near the cincha end of the lash rope.
After passing under the corners, if the rope is long enough to reach
over the load, it can then be passed over and made fast on the off
side by tying around both parts of the lash rope above the hook and by
drawing them well together (Fig. 191).
Alongside of Fig. 190 are a series of sketches showing how to lash and
cinch two parcels or bags together; one bag is made black so that its
position can better be understood. In other words, it makes it easier
to follow the different hitches. Learn to pack at home and you will
not lose your packs on the trail.
In following these instructions, whenever in doubt forget the
perspective views and keep in mind Figures 181, 183, 185, 187, 180 and
191, which tell the whole story. The perspective views are principally
to show the relative position of the packers; the position of the rope
can best be seen by looking on top of the pack.
[Illustration: 190, 191]
In packing a live horse you will learn by practice not to pull in such
a way as to cause the horse to step on your feet; you will also learn
that a live horse will not stand as still as a wooden horse, but when
you have learned to pack a wooden horse quickly and well, it will only
take you a short time to become expert with a live horse.
THE SQUAW HITCHES
These are useful when one has no one to help in packing the animal, and
when one has no pack saddle like Fig. 200. With this squaw hitch you
must throw your burden across the back of the horse, over the pad made
by a blanket (Fig. 192), then put a loop over the end M, see X (Fig.
192), and another one over the end N, see Y (Fig. 192). At the end of
the lash rope Z make a loop; now pass that loop down under the horse's
belly and through Y (Fig. 193), bring the end Z back again over the
horse's back, also pass the end T down through X, and bring it back
over the horse's back, also pass the end Z down through Y, and bring it
back over the horse's back, pass T through Z (Fig. 193), cinch tight
and fasten on top of pack (Fig. 194). Fig. 195 shows another throw in
another squaw hitch. Fig. 196 shows the next position. Fig. 197 shows
the thing made fast.
[Illustration: 192, 193, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200
SQUAW HITCHES]
Anyone who travels with pack horses should know how to arrange the
lead rope in a manner so that it may be quickly and easily loosened,
and at the same time be out of the way, so that the horse will not get
his foot over it when climbing or descending steep places, which often
happens when the lead rope is fastened to the pack in the usual manner.
If you will take the rope and wind it loosely around the horse's neck,
behind his left ear and in front of his right ear (Figs. 198 and 199),
then tuck the end under the strands, as shown in Fig. 198, the thing
may be undone in an instant, and in the meantime the rope is out of the
way where it will not bother either the man or the horse.
Practise all this on the wooden horse, then it will come natural when
the time comes to handle a real horse. The manner of looping up the
lead rope, just described, I learned from the explorers of the Mt.
McKinley expedition, who had many occasions to test the best, as well
as the worst methods of packing and arranging their duffel. There
are a number of other hitches, some given by Stewart Edward White,
in _Outing_, called the Miner's Hitch, the Lone Packer's Hitch, but
possibly we have given the reader enough to start him on his way;
remember for the pack horse the necessary outfit is a horse blanket,
the cincha and lash rope, the sling rope, the lead rope, the manta,
which is a cover for the pack, sometimes called the tarp--short for
tarpaulin, and the blind, but as a rule a handkerchief is used for a
blinder. The aparejo is a sort of a leather mattress which goes over
the horse's back and on which the pack rests, but you will find all
about that when you hit the trail with a pack train. The alforjas is a
Spanish name for the saddle-bags used on a pack horse. When the reader
knows how to pack his horse, knows all the Spanish names for the pack
saddle and all that sort of thing, there may come a time when he will
have a horse which needs to be hitched at night, and it may happen he
must needs
HITCH THE HORSE
On some trail where there are no trees, sticks, or even stones; but if
he is a good woodcrafter and plainsman, with his hunting knife he will
proceed to dig as narrow and deep a hole as possible in the earth,
then he will tie a knot in the end of the picket rope and drop the knot
to the bottom of the hole (Fig. 201) (the picket rope in reality should
be one-half inch rope, fifty feet long); the only way to get that knot
out of the hole is to stand directly over the opening and pull the knot
up perpendicularly. It will never occur to the horse to shorten the
line by taking hold of it with his teeth, so that it may stand over the
hole and pull up the knot, consequently the animal will be as securely
hitched as if tied to a post.
[Illustration: 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 206, 207, 208]
HOBBLES
For the front legs may be purchased at any outfitter's (Fig. 202), or
home-made from unravelled rope (Fig. 203). Make a loop from a strand
from a large rope and then fasten it round one leg, as in diagram;
after that twist the rope to make the connections between the two
loops, tie another knot to prevent the rope from untwisting, then tie
the two ends around the leg of the horse (Fig. 203); the unravelled
rope is soft and will not chafe the horse's leg.
TRAVOIS
Figs. 204 and 205 show the famous Indian mode of packing by travois.
HOW TO THROW A SADDLE DOWN
General Miles once told the author that the handsomest man he had
ever seen came dashing into their camp in a cloud of alkali dust;
having ridden right through bands of hostile Indians which surrounded
the camp, he dismounted, took off his saddle and threw it on the
ground, put the bridle bit, girth, etc., inside the saddle, put the
saddle-cloth over it, then he calmly stretched himself out in front of
the campfire. "That man," said General Miles, "was Bill Cody, Buffalo
Bill!"
When Cody put the saddle on the ground he placed it on its side (Fig.
206); in placing the saddle in this position it preserves the curve of
the skirts, and thus the form of the saddle is not destroyed and the
reins and the stirrup straps are protected; at the same time the saddle
makes a good pillow, and if it should rain at night the saddle blanket
is the only thing, besides the rider, which gets a ducking, unless the
latter has a good waterproof sleeping-bag.
HOW TO THROW A SADDLE ON A HORSE
So manage the saddle that with one swing it will 'light on the horse's
back with the pummel towards the horse's head (Fig. 207). Grasp with
your right hand the horn of the saddle, and as you swing the saddle on
the horse with a graceful sweep, use your left hand to push the further
skirt outward and thus prevent it from doubling up on the horse's back.
Be careful to throw the girth far enough so that it will hang down so
as to be easily reached under the horse. I once had an English farm
hand who put a western saddle on a horse with the _pummel towards the
tail_, and was very indignant when I told him that a pummel should face
the bow of a craft; he told me he knew more about horses than I did,
which is possibly true, as I am not a horseman; he also said that in
the "hold country" he used to ride to "the 'ounds," all of which goes
to prove customs are different in different countries. Here we put the
pummel of the saddle towards the horse's head; we won't argue about it;
we may be wrong, but it is a matter of custom, and right or wrong is
the rule the reader must follow in America, even though the reader may
have ridden to the "'ounds" while abroad. Do not misunderstand me, some
of the best horsemen in the world are English, but this fellow was not
one of them.
HOW TO MOUNT A WESTERN HORSE
Years ago when the rider was in Montana on Howard Eaton's Ranch, near
the celebrated ranch of Theodore Roosevelt, he had his first experience
with Western horses, and being sensitive and standing in great terror
of being called a tenderfoot, he shyly watched the others mount before
he attempted to do so himself. Each one of these plainsmen, he noticed,
took the reins in his left hand while standing on the left-hand side
of the horse; then holding the reins over the shoulders of the horse
he grasped the mane with the same hand, and put his left foot into the
stirrup; but to put the left foot in the stirrup he turned the stirrup
around so that he could mount while facing the horse's tail, then he
grabbed hold of the pummel with his right hand and swung into the
saddle as the horse started.
That looked easy; the writer also noticed that just before the others
struck the saddle they gave a whoop, so without showing any hesitation
the author walked up to his cayuse, took the reins confidently in his
left hand, using care to stand on the left-hand side of the horse; then
he placed the left hand with the reins between the shoulders of the
horse and grabbed the mane, then he turned the stirrup around, turned
his back to the horse's head, put his left foot in the stirrup and gave
a yell.
On sober afterthought he decided that he gave that yell too soon; the
horse almost went out from under him, or at least so it seemed to
him, or maybe the sensation would be better described to say that it
appeared to him as if he went a mile over the prairie with his right
leg waving in the air like a one-winged aeroplane, before he finally
settled down into the saddle.
But this could not have been really true, because everybody applauded
and the writer was at once accepted by the crowd without question as a
thoroughbred Sourdough. Possibly they may have thought he was feeling
good and just doing some stunts.
It may interest the reader to state that the author did his best
to live up to the first impression he had made, but _he did not go
riding the next day_, there were some books he thought necessary to
read; he discovered, however, that even lounging was not without some
discomfort; for instance, he could not cross his knees without helping
one leg over with both his hands; in fact, he could find no muscle in
his body that could be moved without considerable exertion and pain.
But this is the point of the story: Had the author tried to mount
that cayuse in any other way he would have been left sprawling on the
prairie. The truth is that if you mount properly when the horse starts,
even if he begins to buck and pitch, the action will tend to throw you
into the saddle, not out of it.
CAUTION
When you approach a horse _which has a brand_ on it, always approach
from the left-hand side, because practically all the Western horses
have brands on them, and you can, as a rule, count on a branded horse
being from the West, with the hale and hearty habits of the West, which
to be appreciated must be understood. If you want to make a real cayuse
out of your wooden horse, brand it and any cowboy who then sees it will
take off his hat.