The Citadel of Cairo — Mosque of Mehemet Ali — Moslem Carnival — The
College of Dervishes — Curious religious ceremony — Presentation to the
Viceroy — The Nepaulese Ambassador — Visit of the ladies to Ibrahim
Pasha’s hareem.
On the heights, behind Cairo, rises the citadel, commanding a splendid
view of the city, and of the surrounding country. It forms the eastern
boundary of Cairo, and is strongly fortified and garrisoned. From its
ramparts, the spectator may survey all the public buildings, which rear
their stately minarets and cupolas on every side. Chief among these, is
a mosque founded by Mehemet Ali, and now nearly completed. It is an
extensive structure of stone, supported by twelve massive pillars,
formed of large pieces of Oriental alabaster, and surmounted by a lofty
and capacious dome, and two minarets of great height and beauty. A large
quadrangle, in the centre of which is a covered fountain, of polished
alabaster, gives a character of solemn quietude to the whole. But it is
impossible to do justice to the grandeur and beauty of the interior of
the edifice, which, when finished, will exceed in magnificence the far-
famed mosque of St. Sophia.
The majestic proportions of the dome, empanelled to the very top with
blue and gold, rise from many rows of stately pillars, superbly
polished, and gleaming in the light like mirrors, while the vast walls
and floor are of purest marble. The expansive ceilings are overlaid with
gold, and rich blue mosaic, producing a most imposing effect, subdued by
the chaste elegance of the alabaster columns. Hundreds of gilt chains
hang down from the roof, to which lamps may be attached during
festivals.
The structure is in the form of a Maltese Cross, and I should suppose
the interior to be larger than our St. Paul’s; but as hundreds of men
were at work there at the time of our visit, I could only make a guess
at its dimensions.
Only three of the mosques are open to the inspection of Europeans; and
these have, from some circumstance or other, almost lost their sacred
character in the eyes of the natives. One was polluted by Napoleon, who
converted it into a stable, quartering a regiment of cavalry in its
holiest precincts. Another is the mosque of Hassan—a very large
building, inclosing a square, in the centre of which is a magnificent
fountain, where the devout, carrying out the Moslem ritual, may perform
their ablutions before they enter the place of prayer. Four spacious
arches surround the quadrangle, one of which spans the pulpit, and
another extends itself over the reading-desk.
Our stay at Cairo was enlivened by a Moslem festival, which lasted four
days. It seemed to be a sort of carnival, and booths were erected under
the trees, the coffee-houses were crowded, every one turned out in
holiday attire, and some of the dresses were magnificent. No one could
be induced to work, and the feasting was general and lavish.
I witnessed a curious religious ceremony at the college of Dervishes.
Entering a large court-yard, I found between twenty and thirty persons
seated on cane divans, smoking pipes, and apparently waiting the time
appointed for commencing the service. A young boy offered me a seat, and
invited me to take a pipe and some coffee; so indiscriminate and
spontaneous are Eastern hospitality and courtesy, displayed even to
strangers, in the most public places. After a considerable interval, we
took off our shoes, and entered a spacious hall, rising to a dome of
great height, and hung round with knives, bucklers, and bows. Five
Dervishes were seated in a circle in the centre, on sheepskins; and
round the sides of the hall, bear and tiger skins were spread for
visitors. The Dervishes were now joined by others, and by a crowd of
devotees, on which they all began a low and rather monotonous chant,
though the effect, from the union of so many voices, was not
inharmonious. The Dervishes now numbered thirteen, but the devotees, who
seemed equally zealous, amounted to twenty-four, and were composed of a
captain in the army, a janissary, three or four soldiers, several men in
rich dresses, and a residue of beggars. Gradually their tones rose
higher, and they marked time with a motion of the body, swinging gently
from side to side. As the chanting grew louder, the swinging became more
violent, till, after an interval of about half an hour, they suddenly
became silent, and, jumping to their feet, threw off their coats and
waistcoats, and ranged themselves in a row, still standing on the
sheepskins. The singing was now resumed, and the whole party began to
swing their heads backwards and forwards; at first gently, but gradually
declining lower and lower both before and behind, till their heads
almost touched the ground each way, at every oscillation. So rapid was
the motion, that I counted fifty declinations in a minute.
From time to time, the dervishes left their places, in regular rotation,
and, rushing into the circle, incited the devotees to accelerate their
movements, seizing each by the hands, and making him a profound bow.
Suddenly a dervish darted round, and tore from every head its cap or
turban, which he flung into a heap in the middle of the hall. On this
two half naked negroes started up, and whirled furiously round on one
toe, keeping their arms outstretched, and moving so rapidly, that the
eye could scarcely follow them. In about a quarter of an hour they
stopped with the same abruptness, but only for an instant; they
commenced jumping to and fro, sometimes rising three feet from the
ground, and one young dervish, who joined in the exhibition, performed
feats that were worthy of Risley. This ended the first act, but so
exhausted had the performers become, that when, after a brief interval,
the second act commenced, only nine came forward; for the third there
were only four. As a denouement, one of the most zealous of these
fanatics, who had become excited into a perfect frenzy, endeavoured to
kill himself, by dashing his head against the wall. Being prevented from
accomplishing his design, he made a rush at me, which it was with some
difficulty I avoided. All the others, however, seemed calm and serious;
and I particularly remarked the grave demeanour of the soldiers, whom I
observed go home very quietly, beguiling the way with their pipes. I
then left the place, after paying about a shilling towards the
entertainment.
We desired, before leaving Cairo, to be presented to the Viceroy, Abbas
Pacha, and thought to have obtained this distinction on the occasion of
the presentation of the Nepaulese Ambassador, who had just arrived here
at this time, on his return to India. Our wish, however, could not be
complied with, as the Court was held expressly for the illustrious
envoy, and it would be an infringement of etiquette to make it a general
reception. All we could obtain, therefore, through the good offices of
Mr. Walne, her Majesty’s Consul, was permission to go in the
ambassador’s suite, and be passive witnesses of the spectacle.
At three o’clock in the afternoon—an early hour for courtiers—we mounted
our donkeys, and proceeded in full evening costume to the palace. Here
we waited for the ambassador’s _cortège_, which soon arrived. It was
composed of three carriages, the first of which, drawn by four horses,
contained the ambassador and his two brothers, with Mr. Walne, the
Consul; and the other two, his personal suite, and Major Cavanagh, the
political agent. We joined them on the grand staircase, and, ascending a
flight of marble steps, passed through two or three ante-chambers to the
reception-room, a large saloon, with a fine, chastely-carved ceiling,
terminated by a spacious recess, raised two steps from the floor. This
was fitted up with a divan of rich Indian shawls, and some state chairs;
which, however, failed to give it an imposing or even a furnished
appearance. The Pasha was seated in a chair, dressed in European
clothes, and wearing a tarboosh. We all took our seats on both sides of
him, Mr. Walne then advanced, and presented the ambassador, his
brothers, and one English officer; and the ceremonial was completed.
The striking figure of the Pasha, in his state chair, occupied the chief
place, giving greater effect, by the sober colour of his attire, to the
sumptuous apparel of the ambassador, which consisted of a complete suit
embroidered with silver lace, trimmed with rare sables, and his far-
famed turban, radiant with precious stones. His two brothers stood next,
in robes scarcely less royal, though of far less value. Four Nepaulese
nobles were gorgeously attired; and the uniforms of the British officers
had a particularly handsome appearance. Mr. Walne wore the full consular
dress, which is very rich. And a group of the Pasha’s ministers and
principal officers stood on one side, in the usual stately dresses of
the Egyptian court.
A series of complimentary speeches were now interchanged, commencing
with one from the Nepaulese Ambassador, which was repeated by Major
Cavanagh to an interpreter, who communicated it to the Pasha; and the
Pasha’s reply went the same round. All was in the most flattering
strain; which, if we are to put any faith in proverbs, this is the
practice at all courts, and is most certainly the etiquette in the East.
A more agreeable ceremony followed, which was the appearance of eighteen
white slaves, dressed in extravagant Parisian costume, each carrying a
splendid pipe, with bowl of gilt clay, and sticks embossed with gold and
silver lace, alternating on red or blue silk. The mouth-pieces were of
the most choice description; and rich tassels hung from the stem. One
was presented to each person, but I observed that there were scarcely
two of the same kind, and that each above me, was a degree more costly;
the choicest remaining with the Pasha, who had one about nine feet in
length, with a mouth-piece of lemon-amber held in the highest degree of
estimation, encircled by a ring of very large diamonds. The ambassador’s
pipe was even more valuable than this, and was magnificently decorated.
As soon as we had received our pipes, another troop of slaves advanced,
bearing brazen saucers, on which to rest the bowls whilst smoking, to
prevent injury to the fine matting which covered the floor. A third
troop, dressed in the same style, presented us coffee, the cups
decreasing in splendour, like the pipes, as the recipients were removed
from the Pasha. Those of the Pasha and ambassador were overlaid with
diamonds and pearls; mine was of wrought gold. As it contained only half
a tea-spoonful, I thought it had been emptied by mistake, but I found
afterwards, when I became more familiar with Eastern customs, that the
presentation of an empty cup is a high compliment, while one two-thirds
full is considered an insult.
We remained in the divan for about twenty minutes, when we all took
leave, and my party returned to our hotel, very much gratified by their
reception.
Our ladies were, of course, excluded from this visit to the Pasha, but
they were admitted to a higher privilege; and obtained access to the
late Pasha’s hareem. They left our hotel about one o’clock, accompanied
by an Italian lady, who, being in the habit of introducing European
ladies to these imprisoned houris, undertook to be their _chaperon_. A
long drive through the narrow streets of Cairo brought them to the
palace, alighting, they crossed a spacious court, filled with Nubian
slaves, and entered a lofty and commodious hall, hung with lamps, and
the floor covered with fine matting. Here they found a number of female
slaves, whose forms were models of grace, and some with features almost
beautiful. They were dressed in white calico, with wide or full
trousers, and a Cashmere shawl wrapped round them. Passing these, our
ladies ascended a superb staircase, almost lined with slaves, some very
fantastically attired; and were met on the landing by a daughter of
Ibrahim Pasha—a beautiful girl, about seventeen years of age, possessing
a dazzling complexion, and lustrous black eyes. The young princess wore
a bodice, scarf, and trousers of rich green brocaded silk, embroidered
with gold and coloured flowers, with priceless slippers covering the
tiniest of feet. Her long black hair was gathered up on one side, and
fastened by a brooch; on the other it was cut short, though behind it
fell in long plaits down her neck, and its luxuriance was partially
concealed by a turban of light green satin, put on very naïvely, which
gave an exquisite completeness to her appearance. At the summit of the
stairs they were received by the first wife—the head of the hareem—a
woman of commanding appearance, dressed in black brocaded silk, with a
very long train. By her they were led into a stately room, furnished
with silk divans, piled with cushions, and—what looked strange amongst
such Oriental furniture—two or three tables, the velvet coverings of
which were heavily embroidered with gold. Here they were joined by two
other wives, who, being extremely plain, had probably been married from
mercenary motives, though it is impossible to fix a limit to Turkish
taste. After a little time, two or three sons—of course, only
children—were introduced; and the company was further augmented by about
thirty slaves. The wives and their fair visitors now began to converse,
and, as usual in the East, paid each other some flattering compliments.
The former were very curious in their inquiries respecting a young lady
of the party, who they were astonished to find that she was not yet
married, concluding that she was at least betrothed, and would shortly
be claimed by her lover. When undeceived on this point, and assured that
she was perfectly free, they expressed their surprise in the most
amusing manner. During the conversation, a slave presented sweetmeats
and water, with napkins embroidered with gold. A second slave then came
forward, and kneeling, offered coffee in gold cups. Sumptuous pipes were
given to some of the ladies, but not to our party, who, as Europeans,
were known not to smoke. All this time the conversation proceeded, and,
turning on the subject of dress, was maintained with great
sprightliness—dresses on both sides being very closely examined. The
entire of the hareem were very animated, and seemed perfectly happy and
contented, as if their imprisonment and bondage, so mourned over by
Europeans, never cost them a sigh. At parting, the principal wife
attended our ladies to the foot of the stairs, and the door of the
court; and after an offer of sherbet (which was declined) the gratified
visitors came away.