Cairo — Description of the inhabitants — Treatment of women — Adventure
of an Arab boy — Encounter with a native lady — Courtship and marriage
in the East — Taking home the bride.
Alexandria had enabled us to form a conception of what we should see at
Cairo; but, in some respects, we found Cairo essentially different. What
first struck me, was the variety of race and caste distinctly marked in
the inhabitants, and the consequent diversity of costume, producing an
effect highly picturesque. Three-fourths of the population are Arabs,
and these are divided into two classes—rich and poor, or traders and
working-men. The latter are fine, well-made fellows, and being generally
about six feet high, with noble foreheads, and dark eyes, would present
an imposing appearance, were it not marred by a bad expression of
countenance. They have been denounced as excessively dirty, but I must
confess, that, on a pretty close view, I saw nothing to create such an
impression. Nor did I observe among them so many cases of blindness and
ophthalmia as I had been led to expect—though these diseases certainly
are more prevalent here than in Europe. In other points, however, I
found the labouring class in a much better position—healthier and better
fed, than the poor in our large towns; and I have seen more squalor and
wretchedness in the back streets of Liverpool than among the very dregs
of the people of Egypt.
The dress of the poorer sort of Arabs is generally a blouse of brown
cloth, or blue calico, sometimes it consists solely of a piece of cloth
thrown with something of a classic grace over the whole person; and a
tarboosh, or Greek cap, which, wrapped round with a roll of white
calico—a fashion much discouraged by the Pasha, as injurious to
health—becomes a turban. Their wives wear a long robe, also of blue
calico, a square of the same material thrown over the head; and a strip
of white or black cotton, secured across the nose by a brass clasp,
covering the whole face, except the eyes—the only attraction they have
to display. None but the very poorest and—since the dreadful truth must
be told!—the very plainest, have their faces uncovered in the streets;
hence it is fair to presume that these are the ugliest of their sex.
Indeed, though it may seem inexcusable to speak of the Arab women with
so little gallantry, I believe that they might all show their faces
without exciting the least sensation. Their complexions are very bad;
and, when married, they are tattooed over the chin, and their eyes,
though fine, are insufficient to light up features utterly vacant. They
seem to be regarded with consideration by their husbands, and are
treated with great politeness by the Arab donkey-boys, and others of the
male sex, with whom they come in contact in the streets.
The next class are the shop-keepers and native merchants, who dress much
better, wearing wide Turkish trousers, of white cotton or cloth, richly
braided; a jacket of the same colour, covered with braid; satin
waistcoat, and red pointed shoes. Their favourite colours are black,
blue, and chocolate, though many adopt a mixture of all. In this class,
besides the richer Arabs, must be included Greeks, Armenians, Copts, and
Jews. The Jews are marked by a slight difference in their costume,
having the trousers much longer, and wearing heavy turbans, made of
muslin and gold thread. Some of their dresses are very handsome, and all
are exceedingly expensive—the price of a common suit of cloth, including
gaiters, which, in wet or dirty weather, entirely cover the stockings,
being about eight pounds. Of course, it is easy to increase this to
thirty or fifty pounds, and even the last-named sum does not include the
magnificent turban and belt, and richly-ornamented sword. In this superb
attire, the rich citizen presents himself in public, riding a donkey—a
steed which may be thought very ill-adapted to such an equipment, though
here it does not present the sorry appearance that might be supposed.
The wives of these _bourgeois_ are costly articles, and their apparel
often amounts to a little fortune. A large, very full dress, slightly
fastened at the waist, and commonly made of shot silk, ranging over such
bright tints as red, yellow, orange, blue, and lilac, falls over wide
silk trousers, fitting on yellow boots, like demi-Wellingtons, which are
thrust into thick-soled clogs of the same colour. Over all this, from
head to heel, comes a sort of capacious cloak, of black silk; and a rich
lace veil completely covers the face and neck. Such a heap of clothes
naturally forms itself into a bundle; and it is no exaggeration to say
that one of these ladies, when in proper walking costume, takes the
street to herself, filling up the passage from wall to wall.
The highest class of native inhabitants embraces the Beys and Pashas, or
nobility. These personages dress something in the European manner, with
frock coats buttoned up the front, decorated with a star or crescent of
diamonds, which, by their degrees of splendour, denote the rank or
office of the wearer. Their wives are never seen in public, and a
glimpse of them can only be caught by great alertness, when they are
taken out, with an ostentatious cracking of whips, in a large close
carriage, emblazoned with gold or silver, and so jealously guarded and
curtained that even the air can scarcely reach them.
The vehicle is drawn by four horses, driven at full speed, and preceded
by a Nubian outrunner, whose long whip secures it a clear passage. The
adroit observer may then distinguish, through the half-screened windows,
certain piles of silk and muslin, and a few pairs of eyes; this is all
that appears of the lights of the harem.
The Nubian outrunners exercise their vocation in a very merciless way;
however, with equal surprise and pleasure, I saw one thwarted in his
vindictive purposes, in a manner that I cannot but record. An Arab boy,
with the mischievous propensities of his age, had scrambled up behind
the carriage of Ali Bey, a son of Ibrahim Pasha’s, when proceeding
through one of the streets of Cairo; but being perceived by the Nubian,
sprang down again, and made off. This, however, did not satisfy the
outrunner, who instantly dashed after him, his face distorted with rage,
leaving no doubt that he intended to inflict a most severe chastisement.
The poor little urchin ran for his life; at least one blow of the
Nubian’s whip, wielded by such a muscular arm, must certainly have
crippled him. So desperate were his efforts to escape, now darting up
the street, and then wheeling round and round, that the chase became
quite exciting, causing every one to stop and look on, though only one
dared to interpose. Just as the boy was sinking from exhaustion, a
Turkish lady drew him towards her, and threw her robe over him. Oriental
chivalry forbade the Nubian to advance; after a few moments’ hesitation,
he turned sullenly away, and the boy was set at liberty. Thus, the
ministering gentleness of woman everywhere makes itself apparent, and
her influence is felt and acknowledged.
Egyptian ladies of rank, as I have already remarked, are seldom seen in
the street; but soon after the adventure here described, it was my good
fortune to encounter another. I was alone in a narrow street, on my way
to the Consulate, when I saw a heap of female attire coming towards me,
taking up, as usual, the whole passage. My dismay may be conceived, as I
looked around in vain for some recess, where I might instal my poor
proportions till the pile had passed by. I was on the verge of despair,
when the lady, possibly in endeavouring to squeeze herself into a
smaller space, put her foot on her veil, which instantly brought it
down, disclosing a face of the most perfect beauty, a brilliant
complexion, and dazzling eyes, at this moment lit up by a smile. As she
picked up her veil, I caught a glimpse, through her half-open domino, of
a red silk dress, tied with a blue sash, white satin trowsers, and red
boots. She was evidently of high rank, and if so, could only have got
out alone in some clandestine manner.
The cruel seclusion in which the sex are kept by the Turks and
Egyptians, commences with infancy, and is preserved till death. This
makes an Eastern courtship and marriage as matter-of-fact an affair as
can well be imagined. As women are never seen by any of the opposite sex
but their husbands—not even by their cousins or brothers, except in the
streets, when it would be a gross breach of decorum to address them—a
gentleman who wishes for a spouse, having no opportunity of choosing for
himself, is obliged to communicate the circumstance to his mother, and
this worthy matron, who in all probability has previously well
considered the subject, soon indicates one whom she considers suitable.
The candidate for matrimony then requires a list of the lady’s good
qualities and attractions, which, of course, are in every case of the
most unexceptionable kind; and when he has made up his mind, he waits on
the lady’s father, and makes his proposals. These are to pay down a
certain sum, varying from £1000 to £20,000, not as a settlement on the
wife, but as compensation to the father, wives being always purchased
here. A part, however, of this money is laid by as a provision for the
wife, in case of her being divorced; and, as the husband would then have
to refund this, it serves to strengthen the bonds of matrimony in a
surprising manner. All being arranged, the father, suitor, and friends
repair—without the lady—to a mosque, where they celebrate the marriage,
which is little more than a simple question and answer. The question is
put to the father by the bridegroom, who asks, “Will you give me your
daughter to be my slave?” The reply is equally to the point, “My
daughter is your slave.”
Some days now elapse, when the bridegroom, accompanied by his friends,
proceeds to the house of his father-in-law, and brings away the bride,
who is placed, completely veiled, in a palanquin, which is covered by a
canopy, borne by the bridesmaids, who are under the direction of the
bridegroom’s mother. The palanquin is preceded by a grand procession,
composed of the bridegroom and his friends, a company of soldiers, and
two or three camels, carrying young children; and the whole are
marshalled forward by a band of music. In this way they traverse the
town, and at length reach the bridegroom’s residence, where the bride is
conducted by him, with great ceremony, to the apartments prepared for
her. He then offers her some magnificent presents, which she receives in
silence; and his mother and the other matrons, who are standing round,
politely recommend him to go and pray. On his return from the mosque, he
repairs to the apartment where he left his bride, and finds her alone.
He has not seen her face, or heard her speak, and a thousand
anticipations of her beauty flash across his mind. What if these should
disappointed? if her charms should be only imaginary, and her loveliness
an invention of his mother’s? With eager steps he approaches her, and
throwing off her veil, for the first time beholds his bride!
As I was not present at this interesting moment, it cannot be expected
that I should be able to state what the gentleman said. As a
conscientious traveller, I feel myself obliged to have recourse to that
extremely original phrase—the scene may be more easily imagined than
described.