Piercefield--Points of view--Curious appearance--Scenic character of the
place--View from Wyndcliff--Account of Valentine Morris--Anecdotes--The
Wye below Chepstow--Aust Ferry--Black Rock Ferry--St.
Theodric--Conclusion.
The romantic region of Piercefield, extending from Chepstow to
Wyndcliff--a distance of about three miles by the sinuous walk, is one of
the grand attractions of this place. It is nothing more, it is true,
than a gentleman's park; but then the landscape gardener by whom this
park was laid out is Nature herself, who has lavished here her beauty,
her grandeur, and her romance, in the wildest profusion. Art is entirely
subservient to her purposes, opening the view where it was shut in, and
forming paths for the pilgrim foot that would approach to worship.
"In the composition of the scenery," says the historical tourist, "the
meandering Wye, the steep cliffs, and the fertile peninsula of Lancaut,
form the striking characteristics.
"The Wye, which is everywhere seen from a great elevation, passes between
Wyndcliff and the Bangor rocks, winds round the peninsula of Lancaut,
under a semicircular chain of stupendous cliffs, is lost in its sinuous
course, and again appears in a straight line at the foot of the Lancaut
rocks, and flows under the majestic ruins of Chepstow Castle towards the
Severn.
"The rocks are broken into a variety of fantastic shapes, and scattered
at different heights and different positions: they start abruptly from
the river, swell into gentle acclivities, or hang on the summits of the
hills; here they form a perpendicular rampart, these jet into enormous
projections, and impend over the water.
"But their dizzy heights and abrupt precipices are softened by the woods
which form a no less conspicuous feature in the romantic scenery; they
are not meagre plantations placed by art, but a tract of forests
scattered by the hand of nature. In one place they expand into open
groves of large oak, elm, and beech; in another form a shade of timber
trees, copses, and underwood, hiding all external objects, and wholly
impervious to the rays of the sun, they start from the crevices of the
rocks, feather their edges, crown their summits, clothe their sides, and
fill the intermediate hollows with a luxuriant mass of foliage, bring to
recollection of the border
"'Of Eden, where delicious paradise,
Now nearer, crowns with her enclosure green,
As with a rural mound, the champaign head
Of a steep wilderness, whose hairy sides,
With thicket o'ergrown, grotesque and wild,
Access denied, and over head up grew
Insuperable height of loftiest shade,
* * * * * *
A sylvan scene and as the banks ascend
Shade above shade, a woody theatre
Of stateliest view.'"
And this grandeur is heightened, not diminished, by the view presented in
the midst of fertile fields, and the simple details of rural occupation.
The peninsula of Laucaut, on the opposite bank of the Wye, is a
comparatively extensive farm, cultivated to the highest perfection, and
rich with the gifts of Ceres. It is dotted with trees, and a range of
elms fringes it on the side of the river. Towards the middle of its
pear-shaped area, or rather approaching the isthmus, stands the farm
house, with rocks and woods behind. The principal points of view are the
following:
1. The Lover's Leap. 2. A seat near two beeches on the edge of the
precipice. 3. The Giant's Cave, which occupies the centre of the
amphitheatre and overlooks Lancaut peninsula. 4. The halfway seat under
a large beech tree. 5. The double view. 6. Above Piercewood. 7. The
grotto. 8. The platform. 9. The alcove.
But other portions of the grounds not so frequently visited are noticed
by an observant traveller. "From the Giant's cave, a road winds
beautifully along the brow of the cliff to a grove of lofty oak, beech,
and sycamore, which is cleared from underwood, in the centre of the
extensive forest which spreads beneath the Lover's Leap. In this
charming and sequestered spot is a cold bath supplied by a copious and
transparent rill, which springs at the foot of the winding cliff, and
ripples down the side of the declivity. The road then descends to
Malridge meadow, on the bank of the Wye, where the river appears like a
lake, and the fertile peninsula of Lancaut rises in a gentle declivity
from the margin of the stream to the isthmus.
"A beautiful walk, two miles in length, skirts this meadow, at the foot
of the stupendous range of Piercefield cliffs, and then mounts to the
house by steps, cut in a steep rock. As the house stands several hundred
feet above the river, the ascent is long and difficult, but the toil is
amply repaid by the beauty and sublimity of the scene."
From some of these points, it may be observed, the Severn, seen _beyond_
the Wye, appears to be considerably _above_ it; and, however easily
explained the phenomenon may be, an indescribably puzzling effect is
produced by the idea that the latter river, a few miles lower down, runs
into the former. The fact is noticed by Mr. Coxe, whose description is
truly excellent.
"From the Lover's Leap the walk is carried through a thick mantle of
forests, with occasional openings, which seem not the result of art or
design, but the effect of chance or nature, and seats placed where the
spectator may repose and view at leisure the scenery above, beneath, and
around. This
Bowery walk
Of covert close, where scarce a speck of day
Falls on the lengthened gloom,
is conformant to the genius of Piercefield; the screen of wood prevents
the uniformity of a bird's eye view, and the imperceptible bend of the
amphitheatre conveys the spectator from one part of the fairy region to
the other without perceiving the gradation. Hence the Wye is sometimes
concealed or half-obscured by overhanging foliage, at others, wholly
expanding to view, is seen sweeping beneath in a broad and circuitous
channel; hence in one place the Severn spreads in the midst of a
boundless expanse of country, and on the opposite side to the Wye; at
another both rivers appear on the same side, and the Severn seems
supported on the summit of the cliffs which form the bank of the Wye.
Hence the same objects present themselves in different aspects, with
varied accompaniments; hence the magic transition from the impervious
gloom of the forest to open groves; from meadows and lawns, to rocks and
precipices, and from the beauties of English landscape, to the wildness
of Alpine scenery.
[Picture: View from Wyndcliff]
"The summit of Wind Cliff, which towers above the northern extremity of
the grounds, commands, in one point of view, the whole extent of this
interesting scenery: as I stood on the brow of this precipice, I looked
down on the fertile peninsula of Lancaut, surrounded with rocks and
forests, contemplated the hanging wood, rich lawns, and romantic cliffs
of Piercefield, the castle and town of Chepstow, and traced the Wye,
sweeping in the true outline of beauty, from the Bangor crags to its
junction with the Severn, which spreads into an estuary, and is lost in
the distant ocean.
"A boundless extent of country is seen in every direction from this
commanding eminence, comprehending not less than nine counties. In the
midst of this expanse, I principally directed my attention to the subject
of my tour, which now drew to a conclusion. I traced, with pleasing
satisfaction, not unmixed with regret, the luxuriant vallies and romantic
hills of this interesting country, which I had traversed in various
directions, but I dwelt with peculiar admiration on the majestic rampart
which forms its boundary to the west, and extends in one grand and
unbroken outline, from the banks of the Severn to the Black Mountains,
"'Where the broken landscape, by degrees
Ascending, roughens into rigid hills;
O'er which the Cambrian mountains, like far clouds
That skirt the blue horizon, dusky rise.'"
Till Piercefield was inherited by Valentine Morris, whose father had
obtained it by purchase, the capabilities of the place were unknown,
principally, we should think, from the view being hidden by a deep veil
of forest. Morris saw everything, however, with the eye of taste; and
without officiously intermeddling with nature, he contrived, by merely
displaying the treasures that before were concealed, and by opening out
paths through the woods to enable visiters to enjoy them, to render
Piercefield the fairy-land it now appears. He seems to have been a man
of a princely mind, but a thoughtless, unreflecting disposition. His
beautiful property was nothing to him without admirers; and he was so
grateful for admiration, that he caused his servants to wait upon and
feast, gratuitously, even the vagrant stranger, as soon as his foot had
entered the magic circle. It is hardly necessary to add, therefore, that
by the time the beauties of Piercefield had become extensively known,
their master was ruined. Various other circumstances, however, concurred
to dissipate a large fortune, and at length he retired to the West
Indies, where he had inherited considerable property. The following
anecdote is told of his adieu to Piercefield:--
"Before his final departure from England, he indulged himself with
bidding adieu to Piercefield. In company with a friend he surveyed
his own creation, for the last time, with apparent composure and
manly resignation. On his return to Chepstow he was surrounded by
the poor; who, throwing themselves on their knees, thanked him for
the numerous instances of his bounty, and implored the blessing of
Heaven on their generous benefactor. Even this affecting spectacle
he bore with silent fortitude, and entered the chaise which conveyed
him to London. But he no sooner reached the Gloucestershire side of
the bridge, than his ear was struck with the mournful peal of bells,
muffled, as is usual on the loss of departed friends; deeply affected
with this mark of esteem and regret, he could no longer control his
emotions, and burst into tears."
He was made lieutenant-governor, and afterwards governor in chief, of St.
Vincent's; where his affairs prospered so much that he had almost
recovered his fortune, when the island was attacked by the French. With
his usual nobility of spirit, he advanced large sums out of his private
funds towards the defence, but all in vain: St. Vincent's was taken, and
Morris Piercefield never could obtain from government either his outlay
or arrears. He returned to England to seek redress; was arrested by his
creditors, and himself a creditor of the country to a large extent,
languished in a debtor's prison for seven years. His books, movables,
trifles, everything were sold for bread; and his wife sunk under the
horrors of their situation, and became insane. Morris at length
recovered his liberty, and Lord North determined to shame his
predecessors in the ministry, by performing an act of common honesty. A
minister, however, is seldom honest from choice, because the outlay of
money curtails his resources, and because the wilful withholding, even of
a just debt, does not involve his character in society as a man of
honour. Lord North accordingly delayed the restitution as long as he
could; and poor Valentine Morris in 1789, was indebted to his
brother-in-law for a bed on which to die.
We cannot refrain from adding an anecdote relating to one of the family
of Walters, to whom the estate of Piercefield formerly belonged.
"Holding one day a conversation with Mr. Knowles, whom he employed in
building the alcove, he made inquiries concerning the family of
Walters, and asked if any of them were yet living. Knowles replied
that William, the brother of John who sold the estate, was still
alive and in great distress. 'Bring him to Piercefield,' said
Morris, 'and I will make him welcome.' 'If you would give him your
whole estate he could not walk, he is so much affected with the gout
in his feet, and earns a precarious livelihood by fishing.' 'If he
then cannot come to me, I will take the first opportunity of calling
on him.' Being some time afterwards engaged with Knowles in forming
an opening in the wood, he saw two men in a boat; 'Stay here,' he
said to Knowles, 'I will cross the river in that boat, and examine
whether the objects I want to show can be seen from hence.'
Descending hastily he hailed the watermen, leaped into the boat, was
ferried over, and on his return entered into conversation with the
men, and inquired their names and condition. 'My name,' said one of
them, 'is * * * * *, I am a native of Chepstow; and that man,
pointing to his companion, is William Walters.' 'What, Walters of
Piercefield!' exclaimed Morris. 'Yes, please your honour, I am the
brother of John, who sold the estate that you now enjoy.' Morris
made no reply; but giving a gratuity to each of the men, leaped on
shore, rapidly ascended the hill, and rejoining Knowles, cried, 'I
have been talking with Walters:' taking out several guineas, he
added, 'carry these to him, and tell him that he shall never want
while it is in my power to assist him.' Knowles suggested, that as
the man was much addicted to liquor, he would render him more service
by a weekly allowance. The next market-day one of Morris's servants
carried to Walters a joint of meat, and a small sum of money, which
was continued weekly until his death. Morris defrayed the expenses
of his funeral, and his carriage conveyed the corpse to St. Arvans,
where it was interred in the family vault." {204}
From Chepstow to the confluence of the Wye with the Severn, the distance
is three miles; but although the banks are in general lofty, they possess
no features of interest to the descending traveller. It may be
sufficient merely to name the Red Rocks, the Hardwick Cliffs, and
Thornwell Woods. After these St. Ewan's Rocks appear on the left bank;
and we glide gradually into the wide expanse of the Severn. A
prolongation, however, of the left bank continues for some time after we
are fairly out of the Wye; the peninsula of Beachley, extending almost
half way across the Severn. From this is the ferry of the Aust Passage,
supposed to have been named after one of the Roman generals. A
steam-packet now plies instead of an open boat, and lands passengers at a
handsome pier at all hours of the tide.
On the Monmouthshire coast, a little way beyond the mouth of the Wye, is
the Black Rock Inn of the New Passage ferry, supposed, notwithstanding
its name, to be as ancient as the other. This ferry was suppressed by
Oliver Cromwell, on account of a catastrophe which took place here of a
very interesting description. When the king was pursued by his enemies,
he crossed the Severn to Chiswell Pill on the opposite side; but when the
boatmen returned to the Black Rock, they found a party of sixty armed
republicans, waiting to follow the royal fugitive. The ferrymen were
royalists, but there was no resisting commands enforced by so many drawn
swords, and reluctantly they took the enemies of their prince on board,
and pulled across the Severn. They landed their unwelcome freight upon
the English Stones, which appeared to be a part of the shore, but was in
reality separated by water, fordable only at low tide. The tide had just
turned. Some moments, no doubt, were lost in dismay, and some in
shouting to the treacherous boatmen, who lay upon their oars to watch the
event. The English Stones disappeared with a suddenness customary in the
flow of that river; and the cries of sixty drowning men were lost in the
rush of the wild waters of the Severn.
Before the Black Rock Inn, and near the mouth of the Wye, is Mathern,
formerly the episcopal residence of the bishops of Llandaff. The church
close by is the one pointed to by tradition as having been raised over
the ashes of Theodoric, the hermit-king, who desecrated the holy solitude
of Tintern with the sounds of battle.
"The manor of Matherne, where there is now a palace, was given to the
bishops of Llandaff by Maurice, king of Glamorganshire, about the
year 560, on the following occasion:--His father, St. Theodoric, as
he is usually called, having resigned his crown to this son, embraced
the life of a hermit. The Saxons invading the country, Theodoric was
reluctantly called from his hermitage to take the command of the
army; he defeated them near Tintern upon the Wye. Being mortally
wounded in the engagement, he precipitated his return, that he might
die among his friends, and desired his son to erect a church, and
bury him on the spot where he breathed his last: but scarcely had he
proceeded five miles, when he expired at a place near the conflux of
the Wye and Severn. Hence, according to his desire, a chapel being
erected, his body was placed in a stone coffin. As I was giving
orders to repair this coffin, which was either broken by chance or
decayed by age, I discovered his bones, not in the smallest degree
changed, though after a period of a thousand years, the skull
retaining the aperture of a large wound, which appeared as if it had
been recently inflicted. Maurice gave the contiguous estate to the
church, and assigned to the place the name of Merthur Tewdrick, or
_the martyrdom of Theodorick_; who, because he perished in battle
against the enemies of the christian name, is esteemed a martyr."
Our task is now finished: we turn away to seek "fresh fields and pastures
new," but the murmur of the Wye will remain long in our ear.
DISTANCES IN THE TOUR OF THE WYE.
From the source of the Wye to miles.
Stedva Gerrig 2.5
Rhaiader 17.5
Builth 14
Hay 15.25
Clifford Castle 2.5
Hereford 16.5
Ross 14.25
FROM ROSS TO MONMOTH AND CHEPSTOW.
_By Land_.
_m_. _f_. _p_.
From Ross by the turnpike to Monmouth 10 0 0
In a straight line, or as the crow flies 9 0 10
From Ross to Chepstow by the turnpike 24 0 0
By Coleford 21 0 0
In a straight line 16 4 0
The base or supposed tunnel of the hill, between Coldwell and the New
Weir, is six hundred yards; the circuit of the river is four miles two
furlongs.
_By Water_.
_m_. _f_. _p_.
From Ross to Goodrich Castle 4 4 0
To Coldwell 7 0 0
To New Weir 4 2 0
To Monmouth 5 1 0
From Ross to Monmouth 20 7 0
To Tintern 10 4 0
To Chepstow 6 4 60
From Ross to Chepstow 37 7 60
NAMES OF PLACES AS THEY OCCUR IN DESCENDING THE RIVER FROM ROSS.
RIGHT BANK. LEFT BANK.
Wilton Bridge and Castle
Weir End Hill or New Hill Court
Pencraig House and Wood
GOODRICH Court
Castle
Priory or Haverford Walford Church
North side of Coppet Wood Hill Lays Hill
Bishop's Wood
Ruerdean Church
Court Field Lidbrook
Welsh Bicknor Rosemary Topping
Mr. Warren's Monument COLDWELL ROCKS
South side of Coppet Wood Hill SYMOND'S YAT
Goodrich Church
Whitchurch NEW WEIR
Great Doward Highmeadow Woods
Arthur's Vale
Little Doward and Lays House Table Mount
Dixton Church
MONMOUTH
Troy House Halfway House
Penalt Redbrook
Whitebrook
Pen-y-van Hill and Maypole Wye Seal-house
Paper Mills
Pilstone House Big's Weir House
LLANDOGO St. Briavels
Coedithal Weir Hudknolls
Llyn Weir Brook Weir
Tintern
Fielding's House
TINTERN ABBEY
Bennagor Crags
WYNDCLIFF and Moss Cottage Fryer's Rocks
Lover's Leap Lancaut
PIERCEFIELD Piercefield Bay
Twelve Apostles Tiddenham Rocks
CHEPSTOW Tutshill
FROM MONMOUTH TO CHEPSTOW BY THE NEW ROAD.
Upper Redbrook 2.25 miles.
Lower Redbrook .25
Florence College 3
Big's Weir .5
Llandogo 1
Tintern 2.75
Tintern Abbey .75
Wyndcliff and Moss Cottage 2
St. Arvans 1
Crossway Green 1.5
Chepstow .5
15.5
The distance from Chepstow to the embouchure of the Wye about three
miles.
* * * * *
* * * * *
J. Haddon, Castle Street, Finsbury.
Footnotes
{41} Duncomb's Collections.
{63} Monumenta Antiqua.
{85} Whateley's Observations on Modern Gardening.
{106} Of late years, Mr. Pennie attempted to revive a taste for such
subjects in his "Britain's Historical Drama," but without effect. It a
work, however, of considerable merit. Southey's Madoc has only a slender
groundwork in British history.
{158} According to Dugdale, 132. 1s. 4d.; and Speed, 256. 11s. 6d.
{204} Historical Tour.