Saying goodbye to his family on 21st June, Cook, accompanied by Mr.
Wales, left London for Sheerness, and the next day dropped down to the
Nore. The Resolution was now drawing only fifteen feet ten inches of
water instead of seventeen, a very satisfactory improvement. She was
given a good trial on a wind, and was found "to answer exceeding well."
On 3rd July they arrived at Plymouth, having been boarded the day before
by Lord Sandwich and Captain Pallisser, who were on a tour of inspection,
and Cook had the pleasure of giving them a satisfactory account of his
ship: "I had not one fault to allege."
On arrival at Plymouth, Cook found that orders had been given to the
stores that he was to be supplied with whatever he thought necessary, but
the only things required were larger coppers for the distilling
apparatus, the ones they had on board having proved far too small. The
officers and crew were paid up to 28th May, and the petty officers and
men also received two months' advance to enable them to provide
necessaries and extras for the voyage. Cook remarks:
"The payment of six months' wages to the officers, and crews of these two
sloops, being nearly all they had due, was an indulgence never before
granted to any of His Majesty's Ships."
Cook now received his final orders, which he had assisted to draw up--in
fact, "nothing was inserted that I did not fully comprehend and approve
of." He was to call at Madeira for a supply of wine; to sail for the Cape
of Good Hope and there refresh his men; then to look for Cape
Circumcision, placed by M. Bouvet in 54 degrees South, 11 degrees 20
minutes East, to determine if it formed part of a continent, and if so to
explore it, following the coast and endeavouring to get as near to the
South Pole as he could without endangering his ships or crews. Should
Cape Circumcision prove to be an island, or should he be unable to find
it, he was to proceed as far south as he thought there was a probability
of meeting with land, and then steering east, circumnavigate the world in
as high a latitude as he could. In case of meeting with land he was to
explore as far as time would permit. When the season rendered it unsafe
to remain in high latitudes he was to retire to the north to refit and
recruit, and at a proper season to return to the south. In any unforeseen
circumstances he was to use his own discretion, and if the Resolution
should be lost, he was to prosecute his voyage in the Adventure. A copy
of these orders was given to Captain Furneaux, and in case of separation
the following rendezvous were named: Madeira, Port Praya in the island of
St. Iago, the Cape of Good Hope, and New Zealand.
FORSTER SAVES SHIP!
The Forsters evidently were far from pleasant travelling companions, and
at one time or another seem to have quarrelled with every one on board
the ship. At the very first the father was dissatisfied with the
accommodation allotted to him, and offered Mr. Cooper 100 pounds to turn
out of his cabin; when this offer was declined, he tried to force Mr.
Gilbert, the Master, to give up his, threatening if he refused he should
be reported to the king and turned out of the Navy; this threat appears
to have been a favourite one, and soon became a by-word with the seamen,
who, according to Mr. Wales, would use it to each other on every possible
occasion. But, according to his own account, Mr. Forster was able to save
the expedition from a very great disaster on 12th July. He says he came
on deck and noticed the ship was adrift from her moorings; neither the
officer of the watch nor the look-out had seen it till he called
attention, and then, after a scene of the greatest confusion, the ship
was fortunately brought up within a few feet of the rocks. On the other
hand, the Master's log admits the Resolution got adrift, but before Mr.
Forster reached the deck the fact had been reported to the Captain, all
hands turned up, the jib and forestay sail set, and the ship quietly
dropped down into the Sound and anchored, never having been in the
slightest danger. The only other one to notice the affair was Midshipman
Willis, who simply states, "dropped from the Buoy and anchored in the
Sound."
Having received the private signals of the East India Company's Navy, and
letters of introduction from the Prince of Orange to all the principal
officers of the Dutch East India Company, instructing them to afford
every assistance that might be required, Cook hoisted the signal to the
Adventure to weigh anchor at 5 A.M. on 13th July, and with a north-west
breeze the two ships sailed for Madeira. When well out in the Channel the
Resolution's crew was mustered, and it was found that, owing to a mistake
of the clerk, there was one man more than the complement, so John Coghlan
was entered on the Supernumerary List for Wages and Victuals.
On the 23rd they were able to relieve a small French boat, from Ferrol to
Corunna, which had been blown far off her course, and had been short of
water for a fortnight. The day following they fell in with three Spanish
men-o'-war; Cook says: "The sternmost hoisted English colours and fired a
gun to leeward, and soon after hoisted his own proper colours, and spoke
with the Adventure." It appears she enquired who they were, and where
they were going, and finally wished them a good voyage. This account did
not satisfy Mr. Forster, who waxes eloquent and describes the event as "a
scene so humiliating to the masters of the sea." He must have formed a
strange opinion of Cook if he thought for a moment he was one to put up
silently with anything humiliating to the British flag. Marra, in his
Journal, points out that the build and rig of the ships were unusual for
men-o'-war, and that when the Spaniards found they had stopped king's
ships, they "made a proper apology, and very politely took leave, wishing
them a good voyage."
THE FIRST LOSS.
At Madeira, where they arrived on 29th July, they were kindly received by
Mr. Loughnan, a merchant of Funchal, who entertained some of the party at
his house throughout the stay, obtained permission for the Forsters to
explore the island, and procured for the ships the stores that were
required. Here Cook, with his eye on the scurvy, purchased as many onions
as he thought would keep good, and ordered them to be served out
regularly to the crews as long as they lasted. A further stock of fresh
food in the shape of fowls, pigs, goats, and fruits--chiefly oranges and
bananas--was laid in at Port Praya, where they had called for water. On
the 19th the first death occurred; one of the carpenter's mates, Henry
Smook, was at work on one of the scuttles and, falling overboard, was
seen under the stern; every effort was made to save him, but it was too
late. Cook says he was a good, steady man, whose loss was often felt
during the voyage.
On 27th August Cook learnt that the Adventure had also had her losses.
Two midshipman, Lambrecht and Kemp, had died of fever, brought on,
Captain Furneaux believed, by bathing and drinking too much water under
the hot sun of Port Praya. At this time the Resolution had a clean bill
of health, but for fear lest the heavy rains, to which they were
continually subjected, might cause sickness, the ship was constantly
fumigated, washed down, and thoroughly dried by means of stoves, as
advised by Captains Pallisser and Campbell, with satisfactory results. On
nearing the Cape a sharp but unavailing look-out was kept for a bank
which had been reported, and on 30th October they arrived in Table Bay.
The run from home was considered to have been good, as they had in great
measure escaped the calms they had been told to expect at that season of
the year, and the currents, though very strong, had only caused a
difference between the longitude obtained by observation and that by dead
reckoning of three-quarters of a degree, so Cook concluded that those
north of the Equator in the one direction were balanced by those to the
south in the contrary one.
On landing they were received by the Governor, Baron Plattenberg, who
told Cook he had received orders from Holland that the two sloops were to
have every assistance that the place afforded. He also said that two
French ships, commanded by M. de Kerguelen, had discovered land in 48
degrees South, near the meridian of Mauritius, but after sailing along
the coast for about forty miles, he had been blown off by a heavy gale,
in which he had lost both boats and men. Two other French ships had also
called in March, which were on their way to explore the South Pacific
under M. Marion.
Wales and Bayley got their instruments ashore in order to make
observations for the purpose of correcting the watch machines. That made
by Kendal was found to be working well, and gave the longitude within one
minute of time when compared with that fixed by Messrs. Mason and Dixon
in 1761. The first lieutenant of the Adventure, Mr. Shank, who had been
ill almost from the day of leaving England, applied for leave to return
home, as he felt unfit to proceed, and Mr. Arthur Kemp was made first
lieutenant, his place being taken by Mr. James Burney. Mr. Sparrman, a
former pupil of Linnaeus, was engaged by Mr. Forster as an assistant, and
makes his appearance on the rolls as servant. The crews were well looked
after, as much time granted on shore as possible, and fresh meat, fresh
vegetables, and fresh baked bread were served out daily in ample
quantity, so that when the ships sailed to the southward they were all
"in as good a condition as when they left England." Cook found time to
write a letter of farewell to Mr. Walker, as it was:
"customary for men to take leave of their friends before they go out of
the world; for I can hardly think myself in it, so long as I am deprived
of having any connection with the civilised part of it, and this will
soon be my case for two years at least."
He at the end speaks of his ships, both "well provided and well mann'd,"
and of the Resolution he says: "I can assure you I never set foot in a
finer ship."
THE FIRST ICE.
On 22nd November they sailed for the south, and soon began to feel the
colder climate; the warm jackets and trousers provided by the Admiralty
were served out, extra cuffs to protect the hands being sewn on, and
warmly-lined canvas capes being made. From the 29th till 6th December
they were involved in such a heavy gale that the ships were unable to
carry any sail, and a large quantity of the live stock bought at the Cape
perished from the effects of wet and cold. A scuttle which had been
insecurely fastened was burst open by the sea, and a considerable
quantity of water was taken on board, but beyond necessitating some work
at the pumps and rendering things unpleasantly damp for a time, no damage
was done. It, however, gave Mr. Forster an opportunity for an account of
the terrible danger they were in, and, most wonderful to relate, to speak
well of the conduct of the crew. The ships were carried so far to the
east by the gale, that Cook gave up the idea of searching for Cape
Circumcision for the present. On the 10th the first ice was encountered
in latitude 50 degrees 40 minutes South, and a little higher they were
stopped by a large field, to which they "could see no end, either to the
east, west, or south." This field was followed along to the south-east
for some days, but no opening was found, so being in constant danger from
detached pieces, Cook reluctantly gave orders to change the course to the
northward. About the middle of December signs of scurvy began to show,
and extra precautions were at once taken; fresh wort was served out
regularly to all hands and the worst case received considerable benefit
from the treatment, although "Rob of Lemons and Oranges" (a sort of jelly
made from the fruits) had had no effect. Furneaux reported at this time
that he had cured two very bad cases with the Rob.
SHIPS PARTED.
When they had got thoroughly clear of all signs of ice, Cook once again
turned south, and by 26th December had worked down as far as 50 degrees
31 minutes South, 26 degrees 57 minutes East, where, though surrounded by
large masses of floating ice, they steered to the west, leaving the main
ice field to the north of them. Gradually working down to 60 degrees
South in the longitude given for Cape Circumcision, and being some
ninety-five leagues further south, with no signs of land, Cook concluded
that M. Bouvet must have been deceived by the ice. (Bouvet Island was
discovered by the German Deep Sea Discovery ship Valdivia on 25th
November 1898. The position was fixed as 54 degrees 26.4 minutes South, 3
degrees 24.2 minutes ??South, and not 54 degrees South, 11 degrees 20
East, as given to Cook, which will account for his want of success in his
search for it.) Here Mr. Wales was enabled to get a sight of the moon for
the second time since leaving the Cape of Good Hope, and, taking several
observations, fixed the position of the ship with tolerable accuracy.
Changing the course to East-South-East, very foggy weather was
encountered, accompanied by great cold, which coated the rigging with
ice, rendering it very pretty to the eye but difficult and unpleasant to
work. Cook says that, though this suggested very intense cold to the
mind, in reality the thermometer was rather higher than it had been, and
the sea was far less encumbered with ice. Taking large blocks of ice on
board it was found that, when the sea water was drained off, they
provided perfectly fresh water on melting, thus removing a great weight
from Cook's shoulders, and he determined on venturing further to the
southward. On 17th January 1773 they crossed the Antarctic Circle in
longitude 39 degrees 35 minutes East, and at noon their latitude, by
observation, was 66 degrees 36 minutes 30 seconds South, the sea being
free from ice. However, in the evening they found themselves completely
blocked by an enormous field, extending, as far as the eye could reach,
from the south-east round to the west; and as the summer was nearly over,
Cook decided it was unwise to attempt anything further southwards, and
ordered a retreat to the north. Again making for the land claimed to have
been discovered by the French, he spent some days searching for it, but
nothing was seen except some floating weed and a few birds that are
supposed never to get far away from land. On 8th February a brisk gale
sprang up, accompanied by very hazy weather, thickening into fog, and the
two vessels separated. The Resolution cruised about, firing guns and
burning flares, but no response was heard, and when the weather cleared
up, the Adventure was not to be seen. Poor Mr. Forster was dreadfully
scared when he realised the two ships had parted company; he says that
none of the crew "ever looked around the ocean without expressing concern
on seeing our ship alone on this vast and unexplored expanse." He seems
to have been thoroughly unhappy, for he describes the whole voyage, from
the Cape to New Zealand, as a series of hardships such as had never
before been experienced by mortal man. Cook conjectured, rightly as it
proved, that being a little to the south of Tasman's track, Furneaux
would make for the rendezvous he had been given at New Zealand, and
therefore felt himself free to push on to the south-east, as he judged
that if any large body of land was in the vicinity, it must lie in that
direction, for the swell coming from the south-west precluded the
possibility of any mass of land being in that quarter.
On 17th February a display of the Aurora Australis was reported to Cook,
who speaks of it as something quite new to him, although Banks noted a
display during the voyage of the Endeavour between Timor and Batavia. The
present one is described as having a spiral motion, the direction not
strongly defined, and at times strong flashes of light. A second display
was seen on the 25th, but not so marked. On this day, too, some of the
ship's boats engaged in watering from a small iceberg, had a narrow
escape from destruction as the berg turned completely over whilst they
were at work.
The weather becoming very unsettled the Resolution was obliged to make to
the north, and on 8th March, the finest day they had experienced since
leaving the Cape, they were able to fix their position by observation as
59 degrees 44 minutes South, 121 degrees 9 minutes East, the thermometer
registering 40 degrees. Of course this pleasant break was followed by a
heavy gale, with a tremendously heavy sea, and the ship ran before it for
New Zealand. Cook's wish was to touch at Van Diemen's Land, so as to
satisfy himself as to its forming a part of New Holland, but the wind
kept obstinately between west and north, having shifted after the gale,
and he thought it would occupy a longer time than he could spare, so he
bore up for the South Island. It was soon found that a few degrees of
latitude made a great difference in the temperature, "which we felt with
an agreeable satisfaction."
On 25th March at 10 A.M., New Zealand was sighted, and Cook steered in to
the land with the intention of putting in to the first port that appeared
suitable, but as the weather became very hazy, he thought it safer to
stand off again. He had picked up the land at a point which he had only
seen from a distance on his previous visit, and "now saw it under so many
disadvantageous circumstances, that the less I say about it, the fewer
mistakes I shall make."
DUSKY BAY.
The following day they got safely into Dusky Bay, finding forty-four
fathoms at the entrance and a sandy bottom. In about a couple of leagues
they found a good anchorage in fifty fathoms, a hawser's length or so
from the shore. This was found to be rather inconvenient, but another one
was soon found by Lieutenant Pickersgill, and received in consequence the
name Pickersgill Harbour. Here the observatory, forge, and tents were set
up. Spruce beer was brewed, to which molasses and some of their
inspissated malt juice was added, fish caught, and, in fact, everything
possible for the comfort of the crew for a short time, was done. They had
been a hundred and seventeen days at sea, had sailed 3,600 leagues
without a sight of land, and had arrived with only one man sick with the
scurvy, "occasioned, chiefly, by a bad habit of body and a complication
of other disorders."
One day, passing an island whilst out surveying, Cook was called by a
Maori and landed to meet him. The native was accompanied by two women,
and after an attempt at conversation, presented Cook with a piece of
native cloth, asking, as far as could be understood, for a boat-cloak in
return. One was made for him out of red baize, and gave so much
satisfaction that he presented Cook with his pattou, a sort of short flat
club made of stone. He visited the ship, and took great interest in all
that was going on, particularly with the saw pit. After watching the men
some time, he intimated his desire to try his hand in the pit, but found
the work not quite so easy as it looked, and soon required very little
persuasion to relinquish his task.
Cook speaks very favourably of Dusky Bay, a good anchorage, plenty of
good water, game, fish, and easy to enter. The timber he describes as the
best he had seen in New Zealand, with the exception of that at the
Thames. There was but little edible herbage, but he tried to remedy this
by planting a quantity of European seeds, and he also left, in a place
where he hoped they might be undisturbed, a pair of geese. Whilst here
Cook was for a time confined to his cabin by what he describes as a
slight cold, but Mr. Forster says was a severe attack of rheumatism.
After several unsuccessful attempts, owing to contrary winds, they left
Dusky Bay on 11th May, and on the 17th, when near Cape Stephens, fell in
with six water-spouts, one of which came within fifty yards of the ship,
and Cook regretted he had not fired a gun at it, as he had heard that
course recommended. He says he had one ready, but was so busy noting the
phenomena that he did not think of it in time. On the other hand, Forster
says that one "was ordered to be got ready, but our people being, as
usual, very desultory about it, the danger was passed before we could try
the experiment."
FURNEAUX REPORTS.
On 18th May they arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, finding, as Cook had
expected, the Adventure there before them. Furneaux immediately reported
himself to his commanding officer, and said they had been there for six
weeks. After they had lost sight of the Resolution on 8th February, they
heard a gun and bore up for it, firing every half-hour, but heard no
reply. They then cruised about for three days as near the spot as the
weather would permit, and then, following Tasman's track, as Cook had
surmised, made for New Zealand, sighting Van Diemen's Land on 9th March,
near Tasman's South Cape. He sent a boat ashore at the first opportunity,
and a few traces of natives were seen, but the weather was so threatening
that the boat had to return to the ship. They then put in to Adventure
Bay, and staying five days took in wood and water; they had been reduced
to a quart per day of the last for some time. A few deserted huts and
occasional smokes were seen, but no other signs of the inhabitants. They
then continued up the coast till it trended away to the west, forming,
Furneaux thought, a deep bay. Passing the islands which now bear
Furneaux's name, bad weather came on, and he judged it wise to make for
his rendezvous, firmly convinced that Van Diemen's Land was joined to New
Holland. On 30th March they sighted the South Island, and were greatly
retarded in their run up the coast by the heavy swell from the north. On
their arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, they found the pole erected on
Motuara, with the name of the Endeavour and date on it, and several of
the inhabitants came forward to trade and enquire after Cook and Tupia.
On 11th May they experienced the shock of an earthquake, but no damage
was done.
Finding that several of the Adventure's crew were very sick, Cook
immediately sent out boats for a supply of scurvy grass, and:
"gave orders that it should be boiled with wheat and portable broth every
morning for breakfast, and with peas and broth for dinner, knowing from
experience that these vegetables, thus dressed, are extremely beneficial
in removing all manner of scorbutic complaints."
Furneaux had prepared to winter in Queen Charlotte's Sound, but Cook
thought it too soon to settle down to rest and decided to push on. He was
half inclined to go over to Van Diemen's Land and settle the question of
its being a part of New Holland, but Furneaux appeared convinced, and the
winds were contrary, so he decided on proceeding eastwards, and the
Adventure was ordered to refit as rapidly as possible. A boat sent out
for timber on 3rd June was chased by a large canoe filled with men, but
Cook thought no harm was intended; on a second occasion some natives were
on the ship, when a large canoe came up, and those on board requested
Cook to fire on it, saying its occupants were enemies. This Cook declined
to do, and, instead, invited them to come on board, an invitation that
was accepted after a brief ceremonial, and the newcomers behaved
themselves quite properly; but soon Cook had to get rid of them all, for
he found his men were selling their clothing, which they would shortly
require, for things of no value either as curiosities or otherwise. The
newcomers went off to Motuara, and Cook followed them up. He had some
little conversation with them, but did not remember having seen any of
them at his previous visit, and thought none of them recognised him. They
had their cooking utensils with them, and he concluded they intended to
settle down, at any rate for a time.
Gardens had been started by Furneaux on his arrival, and Cook tried to
interest the Maoris in them; he showed them the potatoes, carrots, and
parsnips, which they seemed to understand and appreciate, and they
promised to look after them. He remarks that the intercourse between the
Maoris and the whites did not tend to improve the morals of the former,
whom he had hitherto looked upon as superior in that respect to the other
South Sea Islanders he had come across.
THE WATCH MACHINE.
On 7th June the two ships put to sea, and on the 8th some accident
happened to Arnold's timepiece on board the Resolution, and they were
unable to wind it up. So far it had been working very well, but not quite
so accurately as Kendal's. On the return of the ship to England, Arnold
was informed that either by carelessness or wilfully Mr. Wales had caused
this difficulty. Wales attributed this rumour to the Forsters, to whom he
wrote on the subject, and it is very evident from their replies that
though they did not admit having circulated the report, they were not
ignorant that Arnold had been so informed. There does not appear to be
any ground for the accusation, but it does appear very probable it
originated with the Forsters.
Throughout the rest of June they experienced very rough weather, and it
was not till 18th July that they reached 133 degrees West, having seen no
signs of land on their way. Cook therefore turned northwards so as to
cross the space between his track north and return south in 1769. This
course would practically settle one view about the supposed Southern
Continent, for it had been laid down by some of the theorists that it
must be in the middle latitudes of the South Pacific. New Zealand had
been said to be the western side of this continent (already disproved by
Cook in his previous voyage), and what Forster calls "the pretended
discoveries near America," the eastern side. The proposed course would
take the ships through the centre of the part of the ocean in dispute.
On 29th July, Cook sent a boat to the Adventure, as he had heard her crew
were very sickly, and found that about twenty of her men were down with
scurvy, and the cook had died of the disease. Orders were given that the
utmost precautions were to be taken, and wort, carrot marmalade, and rob
of lemon were to be freely served out. On the Resolution, at the same
time, three men were on the sick list, only one of whom had scurvy, but
some of the others were showing symptoms, so similar precautions were
taken, with good results.
DANGEROUS WATERS.
Cook was so anxious about the Adventure's crew that he would not look for
Pitcairn Island, discovered by Carteret, although he believed he was in
its neighbourhood on 1st August (he was about fifteen leagues to the
west), but a day or so after was able to have Furneaux on board to
dinner, who reported a great improvement. He had some cider on board,
which he had served out with gratifying results. Two islands were sighted
on the 11th, which Cook named Resolution and Doubtful Islands; he
believed them to have been discovered by De Bougainville. The following
morning at daylight they found themselves almost on the top of what Cook
calls "a half drowned island, or rather large coral shoal of about 20
leagues in circuit." In the lagoon which it surrounded they saw a large
canoe under sail. The island was named after Furneaux. As they were now
in such a dangerous neighbourhood, Cook ordered that at night the cutter
with an officer and seven men should keep in advance of the ships until
they arrived in sight of Maitea (Osnaburg Island) on 15th July, when,
being in waters he knew, its services were discontinued. He steered for
the south side of Otaheite in order to get fresh vegetables as soon as
possible, and on the 16th at daybreak they found themselves about two
miles from the reef. The wind dropped, and the set of the current was
taking them on to the reef, so the boats were ordered out to tow, but
getting near an opening through which the tide was rushing with great
force, they were unable to keep the ships off. The anchors were let go,
and the Adventure, finding holding ground, was brought up; but the
Resolution was not so fortunate, and was carried on to the reef and
struck two or three times, fortunately without doing any serious damage.
A land breeze springing up and the tide slackening enabled them to get in
safely, with the loss of three anchors, a cable, and a couple of hawsers;
the bower anchor was recovered by Mr. Gilbert the next day. Cook says
that though he thought they had a remarkably narrow escape, the natives
who saw them did not seem to appreciate that they had been in any danger.
They remained at this anchorage for a week, and obtained plenty of
coconuts and bananas; but though they saw hogs, they were unable to
purchase any, as the people declared they all belonged to their chief;
so, hearing he was in the neighbourhood, Cook landed to call on him, and
at once recognised him as Tearee, whom he had seen in 1769. The chief
also remembered him, and enquired after several of the Endeavour people.
He tried to get Cook to make a longer stay, promising supplies of fresh
meat as an inducement, but as such promises had so often been broken
before, Cook replied he should leave the next day. Whilst here one of the
marines, who had been ailing more or less all the voyage, and had become
dropsical, died, and the one man who was suffering from scurvy still
remained on the sick list. On the other hand, the Adventure's crew had
greatly improved in health with the change to fresh vegetables. One of
the natives was found to have picked up coconuts from which the sailors
had drunk the milk, and having carefully sealed up the holes, resold
them, and did not seem disconcerted when his trick was found out.
Before the ships reached their anchorage at Matavai Bay they were crowded
with natives, many of whom Cook recognised, and almost all of whom knew
him. Otoo, the king, at once recognised Cook, and enquired after Banks,
Solander, and others of the Endeavour; yet Forster gravely asserts that
he never saw them at the former visit. The old fort on Point Venus was
reoccupied, tents pitched, and the observatory set up, and the camp was
placed under the command of Lieutenant Edgecombe of the Marines.
SPANIARDS HANGED.
The king gave a theatrical entertainment in honour of their arrival, at
which his sister was the only female performer. It had some reference to
the coming of the ships, but they were not able to follow the thread of
the story. Cook could see that Otoo was nervous and uncomfortable, and
felt dissatisfied with his reception, so determined to cut short his
stay. No one could understand the reason of the unsatisfactory feeling,
but Forster suggests that it was owing to the advice of a Spanish
deserter, who had left his ship about March 1773. This vessel was
commanded by Don Juan de Langara y Huarto, and was from Callao; her
voyage has not been published, but the natives gave Forster to understand
that four of her sailors had been hanged on her arrival. Cook refers to
the presence of a white man, who, when he thought he had been observed,
disappeared and was not seen again. Young Forster made an attempt to
explore the interior, but finding the climbing more difficult than he
expected, soon returned. In the gardens which had been planted at the
Endeavour's visit, pumpkins seemed to be the only things which had done
well, and for these the natives did not care, "which is not to be
wondered at," says Cook. Further enquiries as to the religious ceremonies
were made, but nothing very definite was ascertained; it appeared that on
very rare occasions special criminals, selected by the high priest, were
sacrificed at the Moris. Cook also formed the opinion that the standard
of morality amongst the women was much higher than had previously been
admitted.
Sailing with a favourable wind on 1st September for Huaheine, the
Adventure ran ashore going through the reef, but with the assistance of
the Resolution's boats, she was soon towed off without serious damage.
Forster, as usual, tries to cause trouble by declaring that Cook would
not send assistance till the Resolution was safely anchored, and thus
added to the danger of his consort. As the boats were in the water before
the accident occurred, in order to render immediate assistance if
required, Mr. Forster's story is too thin.
On arrival Cook was informed his old friend Oree was coming to see him,
so he went ashore to meet him. The boat was hauled up close to the
chief's house, and then five young plantain trees, as emblems of peace,
were carried on board one by one, the first three being each accompanied
by a young pig with his ears ornamented with coconut fibre; the fourth
was accompanied by a dog; and the fifth by the bag which Cook had given
Oree in 1769, containing the pewter plate with the inscription relating
to the Endeavour's visit, and the beads, and imitation coins. On the
advice of his guide, Cook decorated three of the plantains with nails,
medals, beads, etc., and he, Furneaux, and Forster, landed with them in
their hands. They were requested to sit down, and the trees were taken
from them and placed before Oree, the first for God, the second for the
king, and the third for Friendship. The chief then came forward and
greeted Cook in a most affectionate manner, the tears trickling down his
cheeks. Further presents were then exchanged, and the ceremony was over.
SPARRMAN'S MISADVENTURE.
Here they were able to purchase a plentiful supply of everything, pigs,
fowls, and fruit, and Cook says if he had been able to stay longer he
might have bought as much more as everything seemed abundant. The only
disagreeable thing that happened was to Mr. Sparrman, who, out by himself
botanising, was set upon and stripped of everything but his
trousers--Besant substitutes spectacles for trousers. He made his way
towards the boats, and was befriended by a native, who gave him some
cloth to put over his shoulders and escorted him to the others. When Oree
heard of the affair he placed himself in Cook's hands, and did his best
to find out the culprits, and after a time Sparrman's hanger and the
greater part of his things were recovered. It seems probable that some
native law had been unwittingly broken and Sparrman's treatment was meant
as a punishment, for every one else had been particularly well treated.
Before leaving Cook added to Oree's treasures a copper plate on which was
inscribed, "Anchored here, His Britannic Majesty's Ships Resolution and
Adventure, September 1773." Some medals were also given him, and he was
requested to show them to any visitors that came.
At Ulietea they were received at a heava or dramatic performance, one
portion of which illustrated robbery by two men, and Cook says it was
acted "in such a masterly manner as sufficiently displayed the genius of
the people in this vice." Fruit and vegetables being rather scarce, Mr.
Pickersgill was despatched with a boat from each ship to an island Cook
calls O'Taha, where they were said to be plentiful, and he was able to
purchase as much as they had means to pay for, at a very reasonable rate;
but during negotiations the bag containing the trade was stolen.
Pickersgill at once seized everything of value he could lay his hands on,
signifying at the same time that all should be returned when the bag and
its contents were produced. In the evening a chief, who had been friendly
all day, went off and soon after came back with the bag and about half
its contents. Eventually all was recovered, and the boats left with good
loads in a perfectly friendly manner. When the boats went from Ulietea
the crews of the two vessels were again entertained, but during the night
all the natives disappeared, to the surprise and annoyance of Cook, who
thought something serious had happened to offend them. It turned out
that, seeing the boats did not return, the natives thought it was a case
of desertion, and were afraid they might be held responsible.
BAGPIPES APPRECIATED.
Leaving here, the course was to the south of west so as to clear the
tracks of other explorers, and then to call at Middleburg and Amsterdam.
Each night the ships lay to in order that they might not overlook any
unknown island, and on 23rd September Harvey's Islands were sighted and
named. On 1st October Middleburg was reached, but no good anchorage being
found, they went on to Amsterdam. Before they got clear away, however,
two canoes came out, and the coast opening up in a more promising manner,
they ran in again and found ground in twenty-five fathoms. Plenty of the
natives, quite unarmed, came off to the ships, some, amongst whom was a
chief named Tioony, were invited on board; the traders were so anxious to
do business, that those who could not get near enough to hand their goods
into the boats, pitched them over the heads of their friends. Some of the
party accompanied Tioony to his house, which was delightfully situated,
and were entertained with refreshments, in the shape of coconuts,
bananas, and a few shaddocks, called by Forster pumplemoses, and music;
and in return the ship's bagpipes played, to the great enjoyment of the
natives. Turnbull, who visited the Pacific during the years 1800 to 1804,
says that these instruments were remembered, and in Otaheite were
specially asked for. The musical contribution of the natives commenced
with a song by three girls, who sang rather nicely, and were duly
rewarded with presents, whereon all the women began singing in a manner
which Cook describes as "both musical and harmonious." A short walk
disclosed plantations "well laid out and kept," but as eatables seemed
scarce, a departure was made the next day for Amsterdam, the waves
breaking high upon the rocks as they followed the coast.
Off the southern point of Amsterdam several canoes came out, and their
occupants came aboard without hesitation, presenting cava root as a
peace-offering. The ships anchored in eighteen fathoms, and were soon
crowded with visitors. Nothing but cloth was offered for sale, so Cook,
finding the sailors were parting with clothing they would soon be
wanting, issued an order that no curiosities were to be purchased, with
the result that next morning hogs, fowls, coconuts, and bananas were
forthcoming. Cook, Forster, and some of the others went ashore and found
a chief, Attago, who had attached himself to Cook, very useful in their
trading. Mr. Hodges painted a picture of this landing, but, as Mr.
Forster very justly points out, the attire of the natives is far too
classical. It was noticed that many of the natives had lost the top joint
of the little finger of one, and in some cases, of both hands. This was
understood to be a mark of mourning for the loss of parents.
The fowls here were remarkably good, and the sailors purchased some for
the purpose of cock-fighting, but they proved much more successful in the
pot. The island is described as well cultivated, not an inch of ground
being wasted in roads or fences. Forster reported having seen a large
casuarina tree loaded with crows, but they proved to be that pest of the
fruit grower--flying foxes. He also states that the Resolution anchored
in the same spot as Tasman when he discovered the island.
The natives proved as adept at thieving as the majority of the South Sea
Islanders. One man, who had stolen some books from the Master's cabin,
got off in his canoe, and being chased, took to the water, and diving
under his pursuers' boat, unshipped the rudder, and got clear away. Mr.
Wales, in going ashore, took off his shoes and stockings to save them
from the wet, when they were at once snatched up by a native, who ran off
with them over the coral rocks, leaving poor Wales in what Cook calls "an
unpleasant but laughable position," unable to follow over the sharp
stone; however, Attago soon afterwards recovered them.
The language was closely allied to that used in the Society Group, many
words being identical; and Cook concluded they had some form of religious
worship, as he noted enclosed pieces of ground in which one or two
particular men were accustomed to repeat speeches apparently of a set
nature.
NEW ZEALAND ONCE MORE.
On 7th October, sailing for New Zealand, they were delayed by contrary
winds, and did not sight the neighbourhood of Table Cape till the 21st.
They stood in to Tolago and Poverty Bays with the intention of presenting
any chiefs who came off, with pigs, fowls, and garden seeds in hopes of
making a commencement in stocking the island, but none were seen till
Cape Kidnappers was reached, when two made their appearance, and were
duly given two boars and two sows, and four hens and two cocks, first
obtaining a promise that they should not be killed; to these were added a
supply of seeds, such as peas, beans, cabbage, turnips, etc. Standing on
through a series of heavy squalls, in one of which the Resolution lost
her fore topgallant mast, they ran into a violent gale which lasted for a
week, and, after a slight moderation, came on with increased fury, and
the two vessels parted company.
On 3rd November the Resolution reached her old anchorage in Ship Cove,
Queen Charlotte's Sound; but the Adventure was seen no more during the
voyage. Forster was much upset by the stormy weather, "the dreadful
energy of the language" of the sailors, the absence of their consort
which "doubled every danger," the shortness of the table supplies and his
own dislike to a further trip to southern latitudes. Hoping the Adventure
might yet come in, Cook pushed on with his refit, and thoroughly
overhauled his stores. About 4000 pounds weight of ship's bread was found
unfit for food, and another 3000 pounds nearly as bad; they were very
fortunate, therefore, in getting a plentiful supply of scurvy grass and
wild celery, and a small quantity of vegetables from the gardens they had
previously laid out.
Any doubts that may have been felt about the cannibalism of the New
Zealanders was set at rest by some of the officers who surprised a party
engaged in a feast. A human head was purchased from the feasters and
taken on board, and a piece of the flesh being offered to a Maori, it was
greedily devoured. A South Sea Islander, Odidie, was intensely horrified,
and refused to touch the knife with which it had been cut, nor would he
be in any way friendly with the eater. Cook firmly believed that only
enemies killed in battle were eaten, and did not think the custom arose
from any shortness of food.
Enclosing in a bottle, which was buried under a marked tree in the
garden, a memorandum giving the dates of his arrival and departure, the
direction he intended to steer, and other information he thought might be
useful to Furneaux, Cook sailed on 25th November, and as they passed
through the straits, guns were continually fired, and a sharp lookout
kept for signs of the Adventure; but nothing was seen, and as no other
rendezvous had been appointed, Cook gave up all hope of her rejoining
him. The Resolution, when clear, bore up for the south-east, but had the
course at the first been north of east, the two ships might possibly have
met, for the Adventure was then on her way from Tolago Bay and arrived in
Ship Cove four days after the departure of her consort. Cook says his
crew were in good spirits, and in no way dejected, "or thought the
dangers we had yet to go through were in the least increased by being
alone." They were quite ready to go, "wherever I might think proper to
lead them." Even Mr. Forster had to admit at a little later date, that:
"notwithstanding the constant perils to which our course exposed us, in
this unexplored ocean, our ship's company were far from being so uneasy
as might have been expected."
ARMOUR OF ICE.
On 6th December, at 8.30 A.M., they reckoned they were "at the Antipodes
to our friends in London, consequently as far removed from them as
possible." Here a swell coming from the south-west showed there was no
great body of land in that direction, except at a considerable distance.
The first ice was seen on 12th December in 62 degrees 10 minutes South,
and on the 15th, in 66 degrees South, they were obliged to edge away
north as they were surrounded by large quantities of loose ice, and it
was very foggy. Working up to between 64 and 65 degrees, they again
headed east still hampered by ice and fog, but in a few days the weather
improved a little, and they recovered the Antarctic Circle, and reached
67 degrees 31 minutes South on the 23rd, the highest south latitude
hitherto attained. The rigging was so coated with ice that it was
difficult to work the ship, and Cook altered his course to the
north-east. Marra says, under 18th December:
"Icicles frequently hung to the noses of the men, more than an inch
long...the men, cased in frozen snow, as if clad in armour, where the
running rigging has been so enlarged by frozen sleet as hardly to be
grasped by the largest hand...yet, under all these hardships, the men
cheerful over their grog, and not a man sick, but of old scars."
Cook says that some of the men suffered from fever brought on by the
unavoidable exposure to cold and wet, but it was slight, and "happily
yielded to the simplest remedies." The ship was so surrounded by masses
of ice as to cause some apprehension, but by taking advantage of every
breath of air the danger was averted. Christmas Day was passed in
constant watchfulness.
"We were fortunate in having continual daylight, and clear weather, for
had it been foggy as on some of the preceding days, nothing less than a
miracle could have saved us from being dashed to pieces."
On 7th January 1774, five very successful observations gave the mean
longitude as 123 degrees 21 minutes West, the watch gave it 123 degrees
44 minutes, and the dead reckoning as 123 degrees 39 minutes. Cook
signifies his keen appreciation of the watch machine, and says: "I must
here take notice that our longitude can never be erroneous while we have
so good a guide as Mr. Kendal's watch."
OBEDIENT AND ALERT.
A further attempt to the south was made, and on 30th January the high
latitude of 71 degrees 10 minutes South was reached, in longitude 106
degrees 54 minutes West, further progress being stopped by a large and
solid field of ice. This record was not beaten till 1823, by Weddell, and
until recent years very few of the attempts on Antarctic discovery had
proved as successful. Satisfied that there was no continent existing
within the Arctic Circle except so far south as to be practically
inaccessible on account of ice, he acknowledged he did not regret he
found it impossible to go further, and, thinking that in the unexplored
parts of the South Pacific there was room for many large islands, and
also that discoveries already made had been imperfectly laid down on the
charts, he decided that it was his duty, as he had a well-found ship and
a healthy crew, to remain in these waters and add what he could to the
knowledge of geography. He therefore planned to find the land discovered
by Juan Fernandez in 38 degrees South, and, if unsuccessful, to proceed
to Easter Island and fix its position, as it was very uncertain, then to
proceed to Otaheite, where he had a faint hope he might hear of the
Adventure, and, proceeding further west, settle the position of Tierra
Austral del Espiritu Santo of de Quiros. Afterwards to turn south-east,
and, reaching Cape Horn in November, he would have the best part of the
summer for exploration in the South Atlantic. He says:
"Great as this design appears to be, I however thought it possible to be
executed; and when I came to communicate it to the officers, I had the
satisfaction to find they all heartily concurred in it. I should not do
these gentlemen justice if I did not take some opportunity to declare
that they always showed the utmost readiness to carry into execution in
the most effectual manner, every measure I thought proper to take. Under
such circumstances it is hardly necessary to say, that the seamen were
always obedient and alert; and on this occasion they were so far from
wishing the voyage at an end, that they rejoiced at the prospect of its
being prolonged another year and of soon enjoying the benefits of a
milder climate."
Mr. Forster does not agree with this account, for he says:
"The long continuance in these cold climates began now to hang heavily on
our crew, especially as it banished all hope of returning home this year,
which had hitherto supported their spirits. At first a painful
despondence owing to the dreary prospect of another year's cruise to the
south seemed painted in every countenance; till by degrees they resigned
themselves to their fate with a kind of sullen indifference. It must be
owned, however, that nothing could be more dejecting than the entire
ignorance of our future destination which, without any apparent reason
was constantly kept a secret to every person in the ship."
It is evident that Cook and his officers did not think it necessary to
consult Mr. Forster as to the movements of the ship, or, what is more
probable, he was in one of his irritable moods and must say something
nasty about someone.
The decision to turn northwards was taken none too soon, for on 6th
February a furious storm came on, playing havoc with the sails and
running rigging, and though it abated somewhat next morning, it blew very
strong till the 12th, and would have been highly dangerous if it had
caught them amongst the ice. On the 17th Cook judged he had crossed his
outward track of 1769, and on the 20th he notes the thermometer rising to
66 degrees, the only real summer day they had experienced since leaving
New Zealand. Having arrived at the position laid down for the land
supposed to have been seen by Juan Fernandez, he cruised about but found
no signs, so on the 25th stood away for Easter Island.
Cook was now taken seriously ill and was confined to his bed for several
days by what he calls the bilious cholic, during which time "Mr. Patten,
the surgeon, was to me, not only a skilful physician, but an affectionate
nurse." He recovered very slowly, and the want of fresh food told against
him when it came to the question of gathering strength. The only fresh
meat on board was a dog belonging to Mr. Forster, which was duly
sacrificed and made into soup: "Thus I received nourishment and strength
from food which would have made most people in Europe sick." Marra's
Journal says, under 23rd February:
"This day the Captain was taken ill, to the grief of all the ship's
company." 28th February: "The Captain this day much better, which each
might read in the countenance of the other, from the highest officer to
the meanest boy on board the ship." 4th March: "The Captain perfectly
recovered from his illness, to the great joy of the ship's company."
EASTER ISLAND.
At 8 A.M., on 11th March, Easter Island was sighted from the masthead,
and shortly after noon some of the gigantic statues mentioned in
Roggewin's Voyages were clearly distinguished through the glasses. The
position of the ship at noon had been fixed as 27 degrees 3 minutes
South, 109 degrees 46 minutes West. Standing on and off till next
morning, fair anchorage was found in thirty-six fathoms, but it proved
too near the edge of a bank, and they were driven off it in the night.
One or two canoes came out to meet them as they were working back, from
which plantains were purchased, and Cook proceeded ashore, where he was
immediately surrounded by natives; indeed, some even swam out to meet
him. Many of them possessed European hats, jackets, handkerchiefs, etc.,
which they were said to have obtained from the Spaniards in 1770. Their
language was very similar to that of Otaheite, and Odidie was able to
understand them fairly well. There were no trees exceeding ten feet in
height, and the land is described as extremely parched and dreary, though
a few plantations were seen. Some remarkable pieces of stonework were
noticed, enclosing small areas of ground, in some of which were the
statues already mentioned. These were not looked upon by the natives as
objects of worship, although they did not like the pavements by which
they were surrounded being walked over, or the statues being closely
examined. Mr. Forster regarded the enclosures as burial grounds, and the
statues (portions of some of them are at the British Museum) as monuments
to chiefs.
The water supply being found very bad, though Gonzales is said to have
found good springs, and the fresh food for sale but scanty, the stay was
cut short, and on 16th March sail was made for the Marquesas, discovered
by Mendana in 1595. The next day, according to Marra, the fresh
provisions obtained were served out to the crew at the Captain's expense:
"namely, two pounds of potatoes a man, and a bunch of bananas to each
mess; and this without reducing their ordinary allowance; an act of
generosity which produced its effect; it preserved the crew in health,
and encouraged them to undergo cheerfully the hardships that must
unavoidably happen in the course of so long a voyage."
MARKET SPOILT.
The Marquesas were reached on 7th April, and after a narrow escape from
running on the rocks, satisfactory anchorage was obtained, and they were
visited by some of the natives, from whom breadfruit and fish were
purchased. The next day further trading was done, nails being the chief
medium of exchange, but the natives were inclined to be smart in their
dealings, and on several occasions obtained payment without delivery.
Cook here suffered from a relapse, but was able to get about, and after
warning the officer on watch to keep a smart look-out, or something of
importance would be stolen, took his seat in a boat to go in search of a
better anchorage. He was then informed that a stanchion had been stolen
from the gangway, and the thief had got away to his canoe on the other
side of the ship. He ordered a shot to be fired over the canoes, but no
one was to be hurt, and he would pull round and secure the thief. The
order was apparently misunderstood, for the thief was killed, and the
rest of the natives hurried ashore. Soon after trading recommenced, and
the lesson appeared forgotten, for an attempt was made to steal the kedge
anchor by which the ship was being warped nearer the shore. Cook landed,
and the trading went on as if nothing out of the common had occurred, and
some pigs (so small that it required forty or fifty to provide one meal
for the crew!) and fruit were purchased; but in the afternoon, when the
boats went in for water, all the natives had disappeared. This Cook
attributed to his not being with them, for the next morning, when he
landed, trading was resumed. A short trip was made in the boats along the
coast, and when they returned it was found the market was closed. It
seems one of the young gentlemen had given a small handful of red
feathers he had obtained at Tonga for a small pig, and now nothing else
would be accepted, so they sailed for Otaheite on the 11th. Cook was very
much annoyed at the ill success in obtaining fresh provisions, for though
none of the crew were ill, he thought they stood in need of a change of
food. He describes the inhabitants as the finest race he had seen in the
South Seas, almost as fair as Europeans, and their language very similar
to that of Otaheite. Their arms consisted of clubs, spears, and slings,
the two former very neatly made, and with the latter they threw stones a
considerable distance but without accuracy. Mr. Forster managed to secure
a quantity of small birds with very beautiful plumage.
On the 17th April they sighted the George Islands, discovered by Byron
(native name, Tiookea), but, after sending the Master to report on the
lagoon, Cook decided it was too dangerous to enter, and Mr. Cooper went
off with two boats to see if it were possible to trade. He obtained a few
dogs and coconuts, but the attitude of the natives was so uncertain he
would not land, and returned to the ship. One of the sailors exchanged a
plantain for a dog, so it was concluded the fruit was unknown. On the
19th four more islands were discovered, and named Pallisser Islands, and
on rounding one a strong swell rolling in from the south was encountered,
"a sure sign that we were clear of these low islands." On the 21st, land
a little to the east of Point Venus was sighted, and next morning they
anchored in Matavai Bay, being immediately visited by the natives, who
seemed greatly pleased to see them again. The old camp was reoccupied,
the observatory set up for Mr. Wales, and Cook had again the pleasure to
record he had no one on the sick list.
The king, Otoo, came to visit the camp, bringing as his present a dozen
pigs and some fruit, and then with some of his friends went on board ship
to dinner, and to receive the return present. It was then found that the
red feathers were greatly valued, a very fortunate thing as articles of
trade were running short. Cook, after the disappointment in securing
supplies at the last visit, intended to make a very short stay, but the
place now appeared to be very thriving, houses and canoes were being
built in all directions, and there was every sign of prosperity, so he
decided to remain and refit. On 25th April they had a thunderstorm
lasting three hours, such as no one on board had experienced before.
THE OTAHEITAN FLEET.
Going to visit Otoo on the next day, Cook was surprised to see a large
number of fully-manned canoes ranged along the coast, and a large body of
armed men on the land near them. On landing, he was surrounded by people,
and seized by two chiefs, one of whom wanted to carry him off to see the
king, and the other to see the fleet, and between the two, "I was like to
be pulled to pieces," the crowd making way with cries of "Tiya no
Tootee." He was gradually drawn towards the fleet, but refused to go on
board, and after a time was allowed to return to his own boats, when he
found his companions had been subject to similar treatment. They put out
from shore in order to have a good look at the fleet, and counted one
hundred and sixty large double canoes, all well equipped and fully
manned. The chiefs were swathed in vast quantities of cloth, so that to
the Englishmen it seemed almost a miracle they were able to move. The
vessels were decorated with flags and streamers, and made a very fine
appearance. These were the first line, and, in addition, there were one
hundred and seventy smaller double canoes, each having a small house or
castle on it, which were thought to be transports and store ships, as the
larger ones, as far as could be seen, carried no supplies on board. The
number of men on board was estimated to be no less than 7,500, and it was
ascertained this armada was intended for the subjugation of Eimeo which
had lately rebelled against Otaheite.
Cook was informed Otoo was waiting at the camp for him, but on going
there he found he had not been there, and on looking for him again in the
afternoon he was still invisible. The fleet had also gone away; and then
it was discovered that some of Cook's clothes had been stolen from the
wash, and the king and Admiral were both in dread of his anger. However,
Cook sent word he should take no steps to recover the stolen articles,
and things resumed a friendly aspect, the Admiral, Towha, sending Cook a
present of two large pigs and some fruit, giving orders to the bearers
that they were to receive nothing in exchange. He soon after paid a visit
to the ship, and as it was his first, he examined everything with great
curiosity, and appeared greatly impressed with what he saw. One of the
natives having been caught making off with a small water cask, Cook
determined he should be punished, and made a ceremonial affair of it. The
culprit was first sent on board and put in irons, the natives and the
crew mustered, and then the thief was taken on shore and triced up. Cook
then made a short speech in which he pointed out that when his men were
caught stealing from the natives they were always punished, but the
natives were always stealing from the ship and crew and getting away
unpunished, he therefore ordered the man to be given two dozen lashes.
These were duly administered, and Towha made a speech in which he was
understood to admit the justice of Cook's action. The marines were then
put through their drill, and fired a few volleys with ball, and the
proceedings terminated; but Cook declares he did not know whether the
natives were pleased or frightened by the ceremony. The king's brother
then took some of the officers out to see a part of their fleet at
exercise, and they were just in time to see the conclusion and the
landing of the men. Cook says the canoes were handled very smartly, and
"five minutes after putting ashore you could not tell anything of the
kind had been going forward."
The sea stores were again overhauled, and although the greatest care had
been taken with the packing, large quantities of the bread were found to
be uneatable, rendering the purchase of fresh food at every opportunity
of the greatest importance.
A state visit was paid on board by Otoo's father and some other members
of the royal family, who presented Cook with:
"a complete mourning dress, a curiosity we most valued. In return I gave
him whatever he desired, which was not a little, and having distributed
red feathers to all the others, conducted them ashore in my boat."
MUSKET STOLEN.
On 7th May the king expressed a wish to see Cook, so the latter went
ashore, but found his Majesty and many of his leading men had
disappeared, and the sergeant of marines reported that one of his men had
had his musket stolen whilst on duty. Cook gave orders that if the musket
was returned nothing further was to be said, and returned to his ship.
Suspicion was attracted to six canoes laden with fruit and baggage, so
Cook gave chase in his own boat. One of the canoes then made for the
ship, and the occupants, women whom he recognised, informed him they were
taking some things to the Resolution, and that the king was at Point
Venus. Cook went to the camp, to find this was only a story to put him
off, and he once again gave chase, ordering another boat to follow. A few
shots were fired over the canoes, and five out of the six surrendered,
the one he had spoken with getting away. He was now told that the gun had
been stolen by a native of Tiarabou, and therefore Otoo was unable to get
it back, so after a little discussion he decided to put up with the loss,
and sent word to the king that he would say no more about it. In the
evening, however, the musket and some articles that had not been missed
were returned, and the men who brought them were duly rewarded. Cook says
it was remarkable how many had been actively engaged in their recovery.
One man in particular described most vividly how he had followed up,
attacked and killed the thief of the musket, but at the same time every
one was well aware that this hero had never been away from his own house
throughout the day. A state call was made on Otoo, and with the usual
exchange of presents the old footing was re-established. On the return
from this visit a stop was made "at the dockyards, for such they deserve
to be called," and the canoes in construction were inspected, two of them
being the largest the Englishmen had yet seen.
The king soon after returned the visit, and requested that the big guns
should be fired, but Cook thinks it was very doubtful if the experience
was enjoyed. A display of fireworks in the evening was much more to the
native taste. Referring to the numerous robberies that had been
committed, Cook says he found it far the best to deal mildly with the
delinquents, and the regulations he made were, as a rule, well kept by
the natives. He was now better pleased with his reception, and concluded
that the island was in a more prosperous condition than at his last
visit. When the ship was ready to resume her voyage, several young
natives volunteered to accompany her, and Mr. Forster was most anxious to
take one as a servant, but as Cook could see no prospect of returning
them to their homes, he would not permit one to go.
MARRA DESERTS.
When the anchor was weighed on 14th May, Marra, the gunner's mate, whose
Journal has been quoted, quietly slipped into the water, and endeavoured
to reach a canoe which was hanging about to pick him up, but he was seen
and taken on board again. In his notes he expresses his regret that the
scientific world thus lost the chance of having the experiences of a
prolonged residence amongst these people placed before it. At the time of
leaving there was great talk of the expedition against Eimeo, and Cook
would have liked to have watched the proceedings, but he soon saw that
nothing would be done whilst he remained in the vicinity.
On their arrival at Huaheine on the 15th the ship was immediately boarded
by Cook's old friend Oree with the usual present, and he and his friends
were invited to dine on board. He was asked what he would like for the
return present, and named axes and nails, which were given him with the
request that he would distribute them amongst his people; this he at once
did, to the apparent satisfaction of all. The thieving propensities of
the natives were still as bad as ever; a shooting party was robbed of its
stock of trade goods, and the day after three officers were seized and
stripped, so Cook took an armed party ashore, captured two of the leading
chiefs and a large house, and said he should keep them till the things
stolen were returned. This had the desired effect, and everything was
soon brought back.
On 23rd May they sailed for Ulietea, and on their arrival the next day
were well received, though it was evident provisions were rather scarce.
They were informed here that two ships had arrived at Huaheine, one
commanded by Banks, and the other by Furneaux, and their informant
describes both Captains so well that it was some time before Cook
ventured to reject the tale as too improbable. It is possible that there
was some foundation for the story that ships had been seen, for it
afterwards became known that M. St. Dennis had been in the South Pacific
about this time with two vessels.
Notwithstanding pressing invitations from the natives to stay, Cook
sailed for Lord Howe's Island, discovered by Wallis, reaching it on the
6th June, but as it seemed uninhabited it offered no inducement for any
stay. On the 16th a chain of sand-banks and islets surrounding a lagoon
into which no practicable entrance could be seen, was named Palmerston's
Islands; and on the 20th a landing was effected on Savage Island, but as
the natives were very threatening, and the country enabled them to
approach closely without exposing themselves, the party retired to the
boats. A few spears were thrown, and Marra says that one would have
struck Cook had he not seen it coming and stooped in time to avoid it,
and then aimed with his gun loaded with small shot at the thrower, but it
missed fire; a short time afterwards he again tried it, aiming in the
air, and it was discharged. Forster attributes the constant misfires to
the bad quality of the flints supplied by the Government, and says that
English flints had a very unsatisfactory reputation on the Continent.
MORE THIEVING.
The course was now set for Rotterdam, where they arrived on 26th June,
and were fairly well received by the natives, who brought supplies of
fruit before the anchorage had been reached; but they soon began to play
the old game of trying to annex anything that took their fancy. One
seized the lead which was in use, whilst a second tried to cut the line
with a stone, and was only persuaded to desist by a charge of small shot
fired at his legs. A small party of sailors went ashore for water, and a
quantity was obtained; but again the natives became too pressing in their
attentions. The doctor's musket was stolen, then Mr. Clerke's, then some
other things and a cooper's adze; and Cook, though at first inclined to
take no notice, felt compelled to seize two canoes, and himself wounded a
man, who had rendered himself conspicuous by his disorderly conduct, with
a charge of small shot, and it was at first rumoured he was killed. This
Cook would not believe as he had been very careful not to fire at a vital
spot. After a time the muskets and some of the other things were given
up, so the canoes were returned to their owners, and the adze was
demanded. Instead of the adze, however, the reported corpse was brought
on board, and proved, on examination by the doctor, to be very little the
worse for his experience, having a slight wound on the thigh and a second
one on the wrist. He was soon on his feet, and the adze was then
produced. The next day the people were very civil, and the crew were able
to water without interruption.
On 16th July they sighted Aurora Island, discovered by Bougainville, but
it came on to blow hard, so they did not attempt to anchor. The natives
came down fully armed as if to oppose a landing, and the ship passed on
to Whitsunday Island. Off Malicolo good anchorage was found, and the
natives came on board, and were so pleased with their reception they
returned next day in greater numbers, and whilst Cook was in his cabin
with some who appeared to be chiefs, a great noise arose on deck. A boat
keeper had declined to allow a native to get into his boat, and the
islander was fitting an arrow to his bow as Cook came on deck, with the
intention of shooting the sailor. Cook shouted at him, and he at once
diverted his aim to the Captain, but the latter was too quick, and
peppered him with small shot, spoiling his aim. He was not much hurt, and
proceeded to fit another arrow to his bow, when Cook gave him the second
barrel and induced him to retire. Some of the others also discharged a
few arrows, so a musket was fired over them, without any effect. A
four-pound gun was tried, and the effect was truly marvellous; the
natives in the rigging and on deck threw themselves into the water,
whilst those in the cabin jumped from the ports, and the ship was left in
peace. Cook was not favourably impressed by these islanders, and
describes them as "in general, the most ugly ill-proportioned people I
ever saw." Forster, however, thought they were very intelligent. They
were judged to be a different race from the Society or Friendly
Islanders, and spoke a different language.
POISONOUS FISH.
After leaving, many of those on board were very ill for a week or ten
days from having eaten of a fish which Forster calls a red sea bream, and
Cook believed to be the same as those which poisoned de Quiros's people,
and in his account says that:
"The fish had eaten of poisonous plants, all parts of the flesh became
empoisoned. The ship appeared like the Hospital of a city which had the
plague; there was none who could stand on their feet."
Owing to the care of the surgeons, however "all were recovered."
The next land seen was a small group of islands, named Shepherd's
Islands, "in honour of my worthy friend, the Plumian Professor of
Astronomy at Cambridge"; and Mr. Forster complains that Cook's "rashness
and reliance on good fortune become the principal roads to fame, by being
crowned with great and undeserved success." This was very out of place at
the time, for Cook was exercising the very greatest precautions, as he
fully recognised the dangers by which they were surrounded. He always
stood off and on during the night, and only proceeded through unknown
waters by day. Several of these islets were of a peculiar formation, and
one high columnar rock was named the Monument; Forster gives its height
as 140 yards, the other accounts are satisfied with feet. Many of the
group were inhabited, but no favourable opportunity for landing occurred.
On 1st August a fire broke out on board, and Forster writes:
"Confusion and horror appeared in all our faces at the bare mention of
it, and it was some time before proper measures were taken to stop its
progress, for in these moments of danger few are able to collect their
faculties and act with cool deliberation."
After about half a page of this, on fires in general, he observes:
"Providentially the fire of this day was very trifling and extinguished
in a few moments."
Then a few days after a marine, who had fallen overboard, was smartly
picked up, and being well looked after by his comrades, was soon showing
no ill effects of his accident, thus giving Mr. Forster an opportunity to
write of it as an example of "the result of an esprit du corps to which
sailors, at present, are utter strangers." An utterly unwarranted sneer.
At Erromango, on 4th August, Cook went in with the boats, and the natives
tried to induce them to come on shore, but something roused suspicion
after he and one man had got into the water, so, making signs that he
would come back later, he stepped back. The natives then rushed the
boats, trying to drag them onto the beach, and succeeded in stealing two
oars, at the same time wounding several of the boats' crews, amongst them
Mr. Gilbert, the Master, with a shower of stones, spears, and arrows.
Cook attempted to give one of the chiefs a charge of small shot, but his
gun missed fire, and he was obliged, very reluctantly, to order the
marines to fire, with the result that several of the natives were
wounded. Under the circumstances it was not considered worth while
remaining, so the ship left for Tanna, some twelve leagues to the south.
A bright light had been noticed in that direction the night before, which
proved to have been caused by a volcanic eruption.
A good anchorage was found at Tanna, and the ship warped close in.
Several natives coming on board to trade soon developed the usual
propensity to carry off anything that took their fancy--on this occasion
the anchor buoys were the special attraction. Muskets were fired over
their head to no purpose, so a four-pounder was discharged, which for a
time had a good result; but soon they were as bad as ever, so two or
three musquetoons were fired close to them, and though none were hurt,
the crew were able to get their dinner in peace.
HOT SPRINGS.
An old man, called by Cook Paowang, appeared to be inclined to be
friendly, so Cook landed with a strong party to look for water under his
guidance, and met with some of the elders, exchanging presents with them.
The next day the ship was warped in, and three boats went ashore, but the
natives were very threatening, and after some futile attempts to put
things on a peaceable footing a signal was given to the ship and several
guns were fired, when all the natives ran away except Paowang, who was
suitably rewarded for his confidence. After a time permission was
obtained to get wood, water, and ballast, and whilst trying to lift a
stone out of a pool below high-water mark, one of the crew scalded his
hand badly. The pool proved to be one of a series of springs running down
a spur of the volcano into the sea. Several were tested with the
thermometer, and as much as 202 degrees Fahrenheit was attained. Forster
found a number of cracks on the ridge from which sulphurous vapour and
smoke issued, and one of the crew who had been suffering severely from
rheumatism received great temporary benefit from bathing in one of the
springs.
Many good plantations of yams, sugar-cane, and plantains were seen, but
they could purchase very little as their articles of trade were not
appreciated. The natives did not understand the use of iron, and did not
require cloth as they went almost entirely naked. Though no direct signs
of cannibalism had been found, Cook was convinced that the practice was
not unknown.
After leaving Tanna, the western coasts of the different islands were
followed up till De Bougainville's Passage was reached, when the course
was set for Espiritu Santo. In passing Malicolo canoes put off for the
ship, but the wind being favourable, Cook would not delay, and gave
Forster the opportunity to remark that the main object of the voyage,
i.e. the obtaining a knowledge of the natural history of the islands, was
made subservient to the production of a new track on the chart of the
Southern Hemisphere.
CARDINAL MORAN'S GEOGRAPHY.
On 25th August they entered the bay which Cook believed to be that
discovered by De Quiros, and named by him the Bay of St. Philip and St.
Iago in the Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo, now known as the New
Hebrides. In this conclusion Cook has the support of Dalrymple and modern
geographers, but Forster, for some reason which is not quite clear, felt
compelled to differ. Cardinal Moran, the Catholic Archbishop of Sydney,
also believes Cook to have been mistaken, for in his History of the
Catholic Church in Australia, he places De Quiros's discovery in Port
Curtis, Queensland, where he claims that the first Catholic service ever
celebrated in Australia was held. He puts aside the fact that the
latitude of Port Curtis, 24 degrees South, does not agree with that given
by De Quiros, 15 degrees 20 minutes South, by saying that the positions
of newly discovered places were, in those days, "often purposely
concealed lest other navigators might appropriate to themselves and their
respective countries, the results of the discovery." He quotes details
given in De Quiros's petitions to the King of Spain, and says: "All these
details fit in admirably with Port Curtis on the Queensland coast." Now
De Quiros says the country he discovered was thickly inhabited by a
people who were armed with bows and arrows, possessed vessels of
earthenware, lived in houses of wood, roofed with palm leaves, were amply
supplied with oranges, limes, pears, almonds larger than those of Spain,
hogs, fowls, goats, capons, etc. That in the bay where he anchored there
was no sandy barren ground, no mangroves, no ants, no mosquitoes, and
that his anchorage lay between two considerable rivers. How these details
fit in with Port Curtis may be evident to his Eminence, but is not
apparent to less distinguished mortals. The district of Port Curtis when
discovered was very thinly populated, and shows no signs of ever having
been otherwise. Bows and arrows and earthenware vessels were absolutely
unknown throughout Australia; houses did not exist, except in the form of
temporary shelters of branches, leaves, and bark; the fruits and animals
mentioned were unknown; and sandy barren country with mangroves, ants,
and mosquitoes does exist in considerable quantity. The anchorage, had De
Quiros ever been there, might have been between two rivers, the Boyne and
Calliope (both of small size), but Cardinal Moran, to make this detail
"fit in admirably", has recourse to the bold measure of moving the mouth
of the Burnett River from Wide Bay to Port Curtis--some 2 1/2 degrees to
the north of its real position.
On the other hand, Cook's description of the New Hebrides fits in with
much greater accuracy. The latitude was found to be 15 degrees 5 minutes
South, and Mr. Cooper, who went ashore with the boats, reported that he
landed near a fine stream of fresh water, "probably one of those
mentioned by De Quiros; and if we were not deceived, we saw the other."
The country was described by Cook thus:
"an uncommonly luxuriant vegetation was everywhere to be seen; the sides
of the hills were chequered with plantations; and every valley watered by
a stream; of all the productions of nature this country was adorned with,
the coconut trees were the most conspicuous."
A few canoes ventured near enough to have some presents thrown to them,
but here the intercourse ended, for Cook felt that, notwithstanding the
inviting appearance of the place, he had no time to spare from the great
object of the expedition, namely, the exploration of the Southern Ocean,
and, as the wind was favourable, sailed for New Zealand for a refit.