ADVENTURES OF A SHIPWRECKED CREW.
The hotel to which we had been brought upon our arrival was, although
the only one in the place, far too small to stand the strain of such an
influx of visitors as we were, as far as sleeping accommodation went.
Therefore arrangements were made for our lodgment in an empty house in
town, while for all meals we were to return to the hotel. To this
sheltering place we were escorted by a delighted band of darkies, who
insisted upon carrying such traps as we possessed, and also worked like
bees to sweep and cleanse the house. Such bedding as we had was spread
upon the floor in a big front-room, and in Oriental fashion; with the
sailor's ready adaptability to circumstances, we made ourselves
comfortable. We had plenty of company, for the whole coloured population
made holiday and visited us. Few came empty handed, the majority
bringing such gifts as they thought would please us: mostly fruit,
tobacco, and rum. There was such abundance of the latter, that by
dinner-time there was a universal debauch, from which I gladly escaped.
Making my way down to the beach I found the work of salvage in full
swing, for the hull of the ship had broken apart so much that the
floatable cargo was coming ashore in great quantities. Puncheons of rum,
bundles of walking-sticks, cakes of bees-wax and innumerable cocoa-nuts
were heaped in scattered piles upon the beach, each of which was guarded
by some one, whose allies were either scouring the shores or paddling
furiously after some piece of flotsam apparently worth pursuit.
Everywhere I found friends. Such a godsend as this had not fallen to the
lot of the dusky Falmouthians before, and they were willing to recognise
even the humblest member of the crew as in some sense a benefactor. When
I got tired of roaming about the beach, I sought the hotel for something
more satisfying than fruit, and was received by the host's buxom
daughter, Marian, with great delight. She had taken charge of my hatful
of kittens, and showed me, with manifest pride, how comfortable the old
cat and her blind progeny had been made. Ungrateful puss would hardly
recognise me, her changed circumstances had made her forget old but
humble friends.
Noticing that I limped considerably, Marian inquired anxiously whether I
had cut my foot, which made me smile, since, not having worn boots for
months, my natural soles were almost as hard as tanned leather. But I
admitted that there was something hurting me a great deal, upon which
she peremptorily ordered me to sit down while she had a look. A short
search resulted in her finding the place, which she proceeded to
investigate with a needle, and presently drew therefrom a bag about as
large as a marrowfat pea, which she opened, and showed me was full of
tiny eggs. "You'se had dem chigoes mighty bad, chile," she said, "but I
gwineter put stop to 'em right now." With that she went and fetched a
tub of warm water. After bathing my feet thoroughly, she searched most
carefully for more of these pests, finding two other nests, full like
the first, of eggs, but which had caused me only a slight itching
sensation. Having removed all she could see, she made a vile compound of
tobacco-ash and kerosene, which she rubbed into the wounds, causing me
exquisite pain. It took all my fortitude to keep from screaming, and I
was unable to prevent a few big tears dropping. With many strange words
of endearment she assured me of her sympathy, but declared this heroic
treatment to be the only way of effecting a radical cure. I have no
doubt that she firmly believed in her treatment, and I must admit that
in the end it was certainly effectual; but it was so harsh that I was
quite crippled for over a week. During this miserable time I was a close
prisoner in our empty house, being generally alone during the day, while
through most of the night the drunken antics of my shipmates kept me in
constant terror. Nevertheless there was some slight consolation, for by
some means it had got about that I could sing, and I was sent for by the
officers of the garrison to warble some of my simple ditties for their
amusement. As I was unable to walk, the messengers made a rude litter,
upon which they carried me to the hotel, where I was propped up in an
armchair while I sang. The generosity of the officers provided me with
plenty of money, unfortunately of no service to me, since I dared not
refuse the constant demands of my shipmates, who, of course, had none of
their own. I made two or three friends among the better-class people in
the town, who gave me quite a respectable bag of half-worn clothes, and
also promised their aid in other directions.
At last, after the lapse of three weeks, during which time a perfunctory
sort of inquiry into the loss of the vessel was held, and the captain
acquitted of all blame, it was decided to send all the crew round to
Kingston, whence we might get shipped home. A small schooner was
chartered for this purpose, as no steamers ran round the island; and
after considerable delay, provisions for three days were put on board,
and we set sail, doubtless much to the relief of those worthies who had
been obliged to feed such a hungry horde as we were. But, to our great
disgust, we found at the first meal-time that, in addition to the stock
of food being disgracefully small, it consisted solely of ship-biscuit,
yams, and salt beef of the worst sort. If the kind providers of this
outfit could have been affected by the maledictions of our party, they
certainly would not have survived the first day of our voyage; after
that, the subject dropped from very monotony. Calms and light airs
prevailed, and all faces began to lengthen when, on the evening of the
third day, the cook announced that the last of the supply of food was
before us for supper, while our passage was only beginning. Luckily a
young shark was caught, making us a meagre breakfast. Then hunger
stared us in the face. We were at least fifteen miles off the land, with
a dead calm, and nothing but water left to supply the needs of fourteen
hungry men. No fish came to our hooks, no vessels came near us, and, as
there was nothing whatever to occupy the men's minds, the subject of
food-supply was soon discussed threadbare. Then, as often happens among
crews similarly situated, the possibility of there being a Jonah among
us was mooted, and called forth an amazing variety of opinions and
reminiscences. Unhappily for me, the bo'sun was indiscreet enough to let
out the story of my behaviour at the time of the vessel's striking on
the reef. He told it laughingly, referring, with a good deal of
satisfaction, to the swinging kick he had dealt me, the bruise from
which had not even then disappeared. But the effect of his statement
upon those ignorant and frightened men was most strange and significant.
They accepted it without question as positive proof: first, that all
their misfortunes were due to the presence of a Jonah among them, and,
secondly, that I was that Jonah!
It may be found difficult of belief that, among the crew of a London
ship in the year 1871, such a thing should have been possible; but I
solemnly declare it to be true that they at once decided that unless I
were cast overboard they would never reach Kingston. I was immediately
seized by them and commanded to say my prayers quickly, as I had only a
few minutes to live. I looked at those cruel, brutish faces and saw no
gleam of pity; I cried for mercy in incoherent terms while they only
scowled. With trembling lips, and scarcely beating heart, I tried to do
as they told me--say my prayers; but my senses were fast leaving me, and
I do not really know what I did say. Then one of them tied my hands
behind my back with a bit of fishing-line; and this act first seemed to
awaken the three negroes, who were the crew of the schooner, to the fact
that murder was intended. It almost drove them crazy with fear and
horror. Regardless of the odds against them, they rushed to my rescue,
only to be beaten back with the assurance that little would make my
tormenters serve them the same. The bitterness of death was almost past,
when, to my unbounded amazement, and renewing all my hopes of life, help
came from the most unexpected quarter. The bo'sun, who, I do not think,
had realized himself how far in earnest they were until then, suddenly
bestirred himself, making one stride across the deck to where I lay,
hardly conscious. Oh, how god-like I thought him! The scene returns to
me across the chasm of years as vividly as a photograph. His manly
figure, erect before my poor little shrinking body, and the sweep of his
strong right arm as he drove those bloodthirsty pagans back, will never
fade from my mind. "That's enough now," he said, "ye ---- idiots. Did ye
think I was goin' ter let yer drown the kid? S'elp me, ef I thought yer
really meant it, damfi wouldn't drown two or three of ye meself, ye
yelpin' cowardly scum!" For a short minute or so they faced him, their
eyes glaring with the lust of superstitious cruelty, and then (it should
be remembered that there were ten of them) they slank away, muttering
blasphemies between their clenched teeth. With a bitter laugh of
derision he stooped and cut my hands adrift from the lashing, and then
resumed his pipe as if nothing extraordinary had happened. It hardly
needs saying that I cowered close to his side, nor did I once get out of
arm's length of him during the remainder of that passage.
Happily for us a breeze sprang up, sending the schooner bustling along
at a good rate into the harbour of Savannah Le Mar, where we arrived
late that evening. By some means or other, which I don't understand,
considering our penniless condition, a good supply of yams, salt fish,
and water was obtained, and we set sail again at about ten p. m. by the
light of the incandescent moon. Our troubles were at an end for the
time, the wind holding strong and fair; so that in less than forty-eight
hours we were running in swiftly past Port Royal and up to the wharves
at Kingston.
It probably had never occurred to any one of us to doubt that when we
arrived there it would be all plain sailing for us. As shipwrecked
seamen, and in a British port, we naturally supposed that all we needed
to do was to march in a body to the Sailors' Home, show our credentials,
and be received with the warmest of welcomes. And the rest of our stay,
until ships were found for us to go home again in, would, of course, be
one delightful round of eating, drinking, and sleeping, varied by such
amusements as the place afforded. Accordingly, every man shouldered his
belongings, and off we marched, guided by friendly darkies, to the
Sailors' Home, which we entered with the air of proprietors. It was a
fine, large building, with a double row of verandahs and an air of
coolness and comfort extremely grateful to us after our miserable trip
in the schooner. We were received with great courtesy, and shown to the
dormitory, which, with its rows of clean beds and white
mosquito-curtains, looked like fairyland. We were told that breakfast
would be ready in a few minutes; so all hands had a good wash, hastening
down grubwards at the first stroke of the welcome bell. There appeared
to be scarcely any other boarders; at any rate, there were none visible
then. Coffee and bread were brought, and then a white man came, who
introduced himself as the superintendent. He called our attention to the
fact that there were three tariffs here, according to the kind of food
desired, and wished to know which of them we would choose. The bo'sun
replied that, as we were the guests of our country, we might as well
have the best, and added that, as we were somewhat sharp-set, the sooner
we got it the happier we should be. "Oh," said the official; "if that's
the case, I'm afraid I can't take you in. I've had no orders; and our
rule here is payment in advance." Blank amazement overspread every face,
and half a dozen voices volubly attempted to explain the situation. But
to all remarks, remonstrances, and objurgations, the superintendent was
adamant. He had no doubt it was all true enough; but he had no
instructions on our behalf, and, until he had, we could either pay or
go. When asked who we ought to apply to, he was blandly ignorant; but
it was increasingly evident that he wanted us gone very badly.
[Illustration: For a short minute or so they faced him, their eyes
glaring with the lust of superstitious cruelty.]
Well, there was no help for it, and so, breakfastless and dispirited, we
started off again to the town, intending to go to the shipping-office,
as the only place we could think of. In a foreign port we should, of
course, have gone to the consul at once; but here, under our own flag,
no one knew what to do. Our escort of negroes grew quite imposing as we
trudged along, and the news of our reception passed from mouth to mouth.
Floods of advice were poured upon us by our sable friends, and offers of
hospitality also without limit. Indeed, had any of our crowd been
orators, there seemed to be all the materials necessary for a very
decent riot. But, peaceably enough, we reached the shipping-office,
where we asked humbly if we might see his high-mightiness the
shipping-master. After keeping us waiting for nearly an hour, this
gentleman came out, and in bullying tones demanded our business. Our
spokesman, the bo'sun, laid our hard case before him in a most
respectful manner; but before he had finished his story the
shipping-master cut him short, roughly telling him that we had no
business to come there whining, and that he had nothing to do with us.
And with that he ordered us out of the office. Utterly amazed and
dispirited at this treatment, we retired. Upon reaching the street we
were surrounded at once by the friendly darkies, who made good their
previous promises by carrying all hands off to breakfast in their
several huts, talking and gesticulating violently all the time.
Fortunately I remembered that I had a letter of introduction to a
gentleman in the town; so, refusing all offers of hospitality, I hurried
off to present it. I was not very cordially received; but a note to the
superintendent of the Sailors' Home was at once given me, which procured
me instant admission to that institution, with a right to the best
entertainment they could give.
Meanwhile the crew had formulated a plan of campaign, romantic enough,
but promising well. It should be remembered that Port Royal, at the
entrance to Kingston Harbour is, or was, one of our most important
colonial naval stations. A huge old line-of-battle ship, called the
_Aboukir_, was then the guard-ship, and lay moored opposite the dockyard
at Port Royal, several miles from Kingston. A deputation of two, one of
which was the bo'sun, determined to board the guard-ship and lay the
case before the commodore, feeling, like all British seamen abroad,
that, although not to be lightly approached, the captain of a British
man-o'-war could always be depended upon to see justice done to any
sailor, however humble. Accordingly, they availed themselves of a
friendly fisherman's canoe, and immediately set out on their long paddle
down the bay to Port Royal. At the same time the elderly Irishman before
spoken of, volunteered to tramp out to Spanish Town, the residence of
the Governor of Jamaica--a distance of about ten miles, as nearly as I
can remember. He said he was well used to the road, having tramped
between nearly every seaport in England. And so, while the majority of
the crew lay around in the shade discussing the situation over and over
again with a deeply interested crowd of darkies, male and female, the
messenger fared forth. The Port Royal deputation reached their goal
first, and, climbing up the steep side of the great guard-ship, saluted,
and asked to see the commodore. They were promptly conducted aft before
this officer, who listened patiently to their yarn, and did not
interrupt them in its recital. When they ceased speaking, he said, "Is
that all, my men?" "Yes, yer honour." "Then go forward and get some food
at once, and, when you have done so, the second lieutenant will return
with you. You shall be cared for. Good morning." With a salute they
retreated, and, not being hungry, received a tot of grog instead. Then,
to their astonishment and delight, they saw a natty little steam-launch
alongside, into which they were invited to descend. A smart young
lieutenant in full uniform joined them, the white-clad crew jumped in,
and away they went back to Kingston. Long before they arrived at the
landing-place the anxious watchers had descried them, and, when they
touched land, there was quite an excited crowd ready to welcome them.
Straight to the shipping-office went the lieutenant, and at his brief
request the shipping-master was immediately forthcoming. Without wasting
a word the lieutenant came to the point, demanding to know whether his
commanding officer had been rightly informed by these men of the state
of their case. As the facts were undeniable there was little reply.
Sternly, scornfully, the young officer reminded the discomfited official
of his obvious duty to British seamen in distress, with an expression of
wonder at its being necessary for him to do so. "You will be good enough
to see all these men's wants immediately attended to, and a passage home
found for them at the earliest possible opportunity. The commodore
trusts he will hear no more complaints of a like nature." Then, turning
on his heel, the lieutenant bade our delighted fellows good day,
returning to his launch amid the cheers of the darkies. A clerk was at
once sent with the men to the "Home" with instructions to the
superintendent, and the trouble was over.
Not so those of the unfortunate shipping-master, who must have been
heartily sorry for his foolish behaviour. For late in the afternoon our
other messenger returned in state from Spanish Town in one of the
governor's carriages, accompanied by a secretary who bore a message from
the governor that made the shipping-master quake. He could only return
an abject apology, with an assurance that the shipwrecked crew were now
well cared-for, and that nothing on his part should be lacking for their
comfort. But, though we heard no more of the affair, I doubt very much
whether the shipping-master did. From the stir the event made in
Kingston, I am inclined to think it was a long time before he was
permitted to forget it.
For about a fortnight I had a rattling good time in Kingston. Confident
in the assurance that I should not be forgotten whenever a chance
presented itself of getting away, I cast all care to the winds, and set
about enjoying myself all I knew how. Moonlight fishing-excursions in
ramshackle canoes to sheltered coves around the great harbour, long
rambles in the wonderful brakes and jungles with darkies, that, though
men in years, were children in their fresh enjoyment of everything;
singing-parties along the beautiful beaches in the silky evenings, and
all with never a thought of to-morrow--oh, it was heavenly! I scarcely
saw anything of my shipmates. I didn't want to. My new associates,
although black, were full of kindliness, and as pleased with me as I was
with them; what wonder that I avoided, as far as I could, any
intercourse with men whose presence only reminded me of miserable days
better forgotten. Out of the many incidents that are mellowed by time
into a haze of half recollection, one grotesque affair stands out
sharply, and even now makes me quiver with laughter as its vivid details
reappear. A favourite pastime with the _elite_ of the coloured
population was to gather in large numbers, dressed in all their finery,
upon an old disused pier, whose crazy piles and beams actually swayed
with a stronger breeze than usual. Upon this ancient structure, when the
day's work was over, the young men and women would frisk or loll about,
according to their humour; but their chief amusement was the singing of
chanties, camp-meeting hymns, and, in fact, anything with a rousing
chorus in which all hands could join. On the night in question, song had
succeeded song until somebody sent an electric thrill through the whole
gathering by starting the negroes' great anthem of freedom, "Marching
through Georgia." You could hear the pulses of that great crowd beat
while they waited breathlessly for the last word of the sonorous verse;
and then, in one tremendous burst of melody, every one lifted up heart
and voice, while from far-away fishermen on the bay and labourers on the
hills the inspiring chorus rolled on. As verse succeeded verse the
enthusiasm rose to fever-heat; every one sprang to their feet, waving
their arms and stamping in unison until the crazy structure upon which
they stood trembled to its ancient foundations. It was a wonderful
sight, having its ludicrous side, doubtless; but the high seriousness,
and irrepressible energy of the actors, prevented all desire to laugh.
Suddenly, in the height of the chorus, there was a rending crash, and
the entire fabric collapsed in one chaotic heap of disjointed timbers
and shrieking humanity into the placid waters beneath. No one was hurt,
for the tide was high, and every darky swam like a fish; but the scene
of mad merriment on the beach, as one draggled figure after another
emerged from the wreckage, was indescribable. Not until long after
midnight did the peals of laughter entirely cease, for they rose again
and again in all quarters of the town, as the participants rehearsed the
scene to those who had not been fortunate enough to witness it.
I had begun to feel as if I had always lived there, and the thought of
leaving had quite disappeared from my mind, when one day I received a
note from the gentleman to whom I had brought the letter of
introduction, telling me to go on board a large steamer, which had
arrived at Kingston that morning, as he had seen the captain, and made
arrangements for me to be allowed to work my passage home.